Take a tour of Tubular Technologies Inc. (TTI) in Corona, CA, and see how high-quality, high-performance headers and exhaust systems are designed and built for Mopars.
Seems like 3/4 of the magazine world has died, regardless of content. What I miss... is [because its print] advertisers were more integral and felt like real content sponsors - you can't un-print an ad, so it becomes part of the family so to speak. Most of todays internet commerce, ads can dissappear within the hour, and as such so much of it just feels like interlopers. The care of publishing beats the dweebs developing search engine algorithms any day in my book.
@@flinch622 it’s interesting you say that as I would often look for reliable vendors that way. Now I really have to spend hours trying to find a good source. The one outlier seems to be the company that publishes (online) enginebuilder magazine and other sites. I’d recommend them.
Hell yeah, Mopar or no car baby 🤟🏼. I can tell that the guy on the right is a newbie, as he didn't know that the SRT8s are powered by the gen3 Hemi mills and is green. I've heard of TTI before, but aren't real familiar with them and didn't know that they specialize in Mopar. He mentioned the 413 wedge and just about bought a 71 Dart last year with a built one. It was so badass and was a sweet little ride, but unfortunately the deal fell through and didn't get it 😪. We've been looking at Kooks long tubes for my Challenger SRT8 that we are building, and am looking at all of my options. She's got a decent set of pipes on her and are the SLP loudmouth cat-back system, which basically consists of open chamber racing bullets on 3" and rocks. Indy builds some awesome racing engines, and know a guy that has a 71 Cuda with one of their 572s in it and routinely beats up on hellcats, shelbys etc respectively. Or whatever you throw at it and is brutal, especially for as light as the E bodies are 💪🏼😎
Excellent product! I put a polished set on an early model Valiant with a 318 & a 4 speed trans. Only minor engine placement issues easily fixed. I think an automatic would have been a better choice for the car as the stock clutch linkage would not fit but a hydraulic throw out bearing solved the problem.
I love my hooker headers on my 70 mustang 351w stroker. they are ceramic coated and are clearanced properly. no familiar with these guys but I'm learning.
Hey sir. I have a 1964 Plymouth valiant and i need help, my engine got locked so im trying to put in a new one but cant find the same one. What other engines could i use that would fit with the transmission thank you
+Jhoalri Rivera If you don't post what the current engine is - could be anything from a 225 (or smaller) cid slant six to a 413 Max Wedge and a 3 speed manual to a 727 TorgueFlite (if I have the right year). In 99% of cases, keep the same engine* or, if the transmission is in good condition, a larger version of the same - otherwise you're potentially looking at problems with just about every aspect, from radiator hoses to engine mounts to exhausts to upgrading the transmission, brakes, etc. *If you're lucky, you may be able to find an exchange rebuilt engine with a warranty or, perhaps, a rebuild kit from someone like SUMMIT.
Ever heard the expresion "polishing a turd"? They look pretty but with a good 12" difference in some of those header's lengths they will just cause problems for tuning. Especially for "high performance", tube lengths are critical and that should come first, well before ease of fitting and finish.
+Bob Smith TRUE! As I said, they look pretty but will just cause problems for any properly tuned engine. You wouldn't buy a camshaft that had different lift or duration for each cylinder, would you? The unequal lengths will have a similar affect. I will conceed that they will, probably, be better than using the OEM manifolds, though.
+GordonWG1 Disagree with you on the problem tuning. Equal length is overrated for street/strip engines. Newsflash! They do make cams that have different lobes for each cylinder.
+Bob Smith We can agree to disagree then :-) The only split camshafts (lift and/or timing) I'm currently aware of were some for the big block Chev' engine, as the intake runners are two different lengths (also the reason for the old Can-Am cars having two different length trumpets for their fuel injection), and the classic Mini as the siamesed intakes (and centre exhaust) can cause uneven cylinder filling. There were also some experimental ones to widen the effective power/torque curves by effectively having two different engine configurations - I don't know if they're still available, though. However, that's a different scenario from having each cylinder's cam' timing/lift different from every other one, which is effectively what uneven length primaries do. If they were all different diameters, instead, would you consider that irrelevant as well? Come to think on it, there were also several racing motorcycles that paired cylinders 1&2 and 3&4 to give a 'better' power delivery from the different scavenging - they may also have had different cam' spec's for the cylinders as well, but I don't know about that. I'd be interested in your experience of this, as we're all still learning.
+GordonWG1 The importance of exhaust header equal primary tube length is blown out of proportion, particularly on a street-strip application. The affect of grossly unequal primary tube lengths on overall performance is minimal. There are numerous factors that contribute to the efficiency and performance of an exhaust header. Every degree of bend and where that bend is located affects the overall performance. The addition of a number of bends to achieve equal length can be more detrimental to performance than unequal length primaries. It is firmly established that equal length primaries such as zoomies that all flow equally can increase performance, but usually only for a very narrow rpm band and still need to be designed to match the flow and VE of the tract upstream.
hempseed57 Depends on who you ask. I have heard people swear by wrapping their headers and others who hate it. It keeps the engine bay cooler. But I heard once you wrap your header the finish is ruined
+hempseed57 As said, it depends. however there have been instances of mild steel manifolds rapidly rusting out and/or cracking due to the wrap keeping so much heat in the pipes that the metal is weakened, also reports of the wrap holding moisure when driven on wet roads - may be a particular problem with salted roads as salt could build up in the wrap. Some wraps are also intended to be coated. Personally, I'd go for ceramic coating first - some of the modern products, like Zircotec, can greatly reduce heat transfer - then wrap if required.
TTi headers are fucking garbage. Those guys that weld them up can't weld for shit. They look nice on the outside but inside where the critical welds are in the collector look like they were done by a novice from community college. I have a set of the 6.1 Gen 3 Hemi swap headers into an E-body and the weld quality is not worth the price I paid for them. Do they flow well? Who knows? Probably costs some horsepower at the top end. They fit pretty good though that's one of the few positives I can say. TTi makes a header worth $300 and sells it for double because they are the only ones that make the swap headers but quality is really lacking. This video does not show that at all.
Commenting here to pay homage to the last video before the magazine folded. Much respect to all who made it happen.
Seems like 3/4 of the magazine world has died, regardless of content. What I miss... is [because its print] advertisers were more integral and felt like real content sponsors - you can't un-print an ad, so it becomes part of the family so to speak. Most of todays internet commerce, ads can dissappear within the hour, and as such so much of it just feels like interlopers. The care of publishing beats the dweebs developing search engine algorithms any day in my book.
@@flinch622 it’s interesting you say that as I would often look for reliable vendors that way. Now I really have to spend hours trying to find a good source. The one outlier seems to be the company that publishes (online) enginebuilder magazine and other sites. I’d recommend them.
Made in the US and great reputation. My headers fit great on my Duster. Thanks, TTI.
Hell yeah, Mopar or no car baby 🤟🏼. I can tell that the guy on the right is a newbie, as he didn't know that the SRT8s are powered by the gen3 Hemi mills and is green. I've heard of TTI before, but aren't real familiar with them and didn't know that they specialize in Mopar. He mentioned the 413 wedge and just about bought a 71 Dart last year with a built one. It was so badass and was a sweet little ride, but unfortunately the deal fell through and didn't get it 😪.
We've been looking at Kooks long tubes for my Challenger SRT8 that we are building, and am looking at all of my options. She's got a decent set of pipes on her and are the SLP loudmouth cat-back system, which basically consists of open chamber racing bullets on 3" and rocks. Indy builds some awesome racing engines, and know a guy that has a 71 Cuda with one of their 572s in it and routinely beats up on hellcats, shelbys etc respectively. Or whatever you throw at it and is brutal, especially for as light as the E bodies are
💪🏼😎
Excellent product! I put a polished set on an early model Valiant with a 318 & a 4 speed trans. Only minor engine placement issues easily fixed. I think an automatic would have been a better choice for the car as the stock clutch linkage would not fit but a hydraulic throw out bearing solved the problem.
Good info. Thanks for making the video!
I want to learn how to build headers by cutting the bends needed and welding them. nice video
when you have learned, come to sweden :)
how bout headers for the 4.7 grand cherokee ? dont see em on the website..maybe i missed em eh?
hello neighbors, you guys are like down the street from my work
Does your company make headers for the vintage 392,354 or 331 hemi for custom application??
Cool piece, but please step it up to 720P.
RIP Popular Hotrodding
Awesome
Good video excellent pipes.
I love my hooker headers on my 70 mustang 351w stroker. they are ceramic coated and are clearanced properly. no familiar with these guys but I'm learning.
Im peed off that right hand drive performance headers arnt available for a 1999 slk 230 kompressor.
Nice grocery cart. Underpass find?
Nice job.
Hey Guys, I'm in Riverside and I have a GTO. Do you guys install Suspension system?
Hey sir. I have a 1964 Plymouth valiant and i need help, my engine got locked so im trying to put in a new one but cant find the same one. What other engines could i use that would fit with the transmission thank you
+Jhoalri Rivera If you don't post what the current engine is - could be anything from a 225 (or smaller) cid slant six to a 413 Max Wedge and a 3 speed manual to a 727 TorgueFlite (if I have the right year).
In 99% of cases, keep the same engine* or, if the transmission is in good condition, a larger version of the same - otherwise you're potentially looking at problems with just about every aspect, from radiator hoses to engine mounts to exhausts to upgrading the transmission, brakes, etc.
*If you're lucky, you may be able to find an exchange rebuilt engine with a warranty or, perhaps, a rebuild kit from someone like SUMMIT.
WITH. CHEVY. NO. MAKE. ANY. I. INTEREST. CUSTON. HEADERS O. KNOW OF A PLACE. PLS
Ever heard the expresion "polishing a turd"?
They look pretty but with a good 12" difference in some of those header's lengths they will just cause problems for tuning.
Especially for "high performance", tube lengths are critical and that should come first, well before ease of fitting and finish.
+GordonWG1 FALSE!
+Bob Smith TRUE!
As I said, they look pretty but will just cause problems for any properly tuned engine. You wouldn't buy a camshaft that had different lift or duration for each cylinder, would you? The unequal lengths will have a similar affect.
I will conceed that they will, probably, be better than using the OEM manifolds, though.
+GordonWG1 Disagree with you on the problem tuning.
Equal length is overrated for street/strip engines.
Newsflash!
They do make cams that have different lobes for each cylinder.
+Bob Smith We can agree to disagree then :-)
The only split camshafts (lift and/or timing) I'm currently aware of were some for the big block Chev' engine, as the intake runners are two different lengths (also the reason for the old Can-Am cars having two different length trumpets for their fuel injection), and the classic Mini as the siamesed intakes (and centre exhaust) can cause uneven cylinder filling. There were also some experimental ones to widen the effective power/torque curves by effectively having two different engine configurations - I don't know if they're still available, though.
However, that's a different scenario from having each cylinder's cam' timing/lift different from every other one, which is effectively what uneven length primaries do. If they were all different diameters, instead, would you consider that irrelevant as well?
Come to think on it, there were also several racing motorcycles that paired cylinders 1&2 and 3&4 to give a 'better' power delivery from the different scavenging - they may also have had different cam' spec's for the cylinders as well, but I don't know about that.
I'd be interested in your experience of this, as we're all still learning.
+GordonWG1
The importance of exhaust header equal primary tube length is blown out of proportion, particularly on a street-strip application.
The affect of grossly unequal primary tube lengths on overall performance is minimal.
There are numerous factors that contribute to the efficiency and performance of an exhaust header.
Every degree of bend and where that bend is located affects the overall performance.
The addition of a number of bends to achieve equal length can be more detrimental to performance than unequal length primaries.
It is firmly established that equal length primaries such as zoomies that all flow equally can increase performance, but usually only for a very narrow rpm band and still need to be designed to match the flow and VE of the tract upstream.
Next project car should be my Valiant Ute 1969. Please. I said Please!
Should headers be wrapped?
hempseed57 Depends on who you ask. I have heard people swear by wrapping their headers and others who hate it. It keeps the engine bay cooler. But I heard once you wrap your header the finish is ruined
+hempseed57 As said, it depends. however there have been instances of mild steel manifolds rapidly rusting out and/or cracking due to the wrap keeping so much heat in the pipes that the metal is weakened, also reports of the wrap holding moisure when driven on wet roads - may be a particular problem with salted roads as salt could build up in the wrap. Some wraps are also intended to be coated.
Personally, I'd go for ceramic coating first - some of the modern products, like Zircotec, can greatly reduce heat transfer - then wrap if required.
What happened to this car? It’s been 3 years.
IR guns dont read shiney surfaces
not the best collectors ever
Haa ! Every shop has a stolen shopping cart
Yep my work has 4 or so
All of that precision machine work and art-work, then they MIG weld it seriously? At least bust out the TIG if you're putting in all of that effort.
this is one giant commercial. I hate youtube.
Then why are you watching an informational video. Go watch fucking cat videos
TTi headers are fucking garbage. Those guys that weld them up can't weld for shit. They look nice on the outside but inside where the critical welds are in the collector look like they were done by a novice from community college. I have a set of the 6.1 Gen 3 Hemi swap headers into an E-body and the weld quality is not worth the price I paid for them. Do they flow well? Who knows? Probably costs some horsepower at the top end. They fit pretty good though that's one of the few positives I can say. TTi makes a header worth $300 and sells it for double because they are the only ones that make the swap headers but quality is really lacking. This video does not show that at all.
>you want decent headers....get a TIG welder.....