My last V8 build was back in '01. Never had a part fail. This goes with what I've been saying: It's not unreasonable to suspect name-brand companies to "roll the dice" and use cheaper made parts and put their stamp on it, or in their packaging. We used to be able to see the difference between American made parts, and cheap knock offs. Now its hard to tell. Looks good, but the quality of materials, and good tolerances can't be seen with the naked eye. I think its "buyer beware" with everything, nowadays.
Absolutely. Now even direct car manufacturer replacement parts are suspect. They will sometimes start using some cheap Chinese part and putting their label and box etc. Seen GM do it with brake rotors, exhaust, etc. where the part used to be exactly as put on the car at the factory, but now cheeping out on the replacement part, but still charging as assembly line quality. Such is our world today.
TargaWheels I don’t think they used cheaper parts ther is not a company out ther that don’t screw up I’m sure they are quality lifters shit happens don’t mean they were chinese it means every thing can fuck up no matter we’re the part was made I don’t think he bought cheap lifters I think it was one of them things you can buy the very best and it still can be a defect goes to show you nothing is perfect but the best part is most would have come up with some bullshit or he could have run out bought a cam and lifters and no one would know the difference so that makes this a very real channel that he was honest we all roll the dice once in a while especially on something like that you are all pumped up for the big day and he was hoping the oil would come up but a little ticking and boom fucked the whole day great channel honest good learning video on don’t matter how good you are don’t be in a hurry most would have prob done the same as he did but most would not have told the truth so I don’t blame the company everything is not perfect even that
Over half of the Ac Delco and Motorcraft fuel pumps on Ebay and Amazon are cheap Chinese knock off's in what appears to be genuine OEM packaging. They last for about a year and then fail. People think the quality of Ac Delco and Motorcraft have fallen off when the reality is they have been scammed. The problem is so bad they have a website to report the fake knock off brand name parts. I now buy as close as I can to the manufacturer and avoid any middle men. It's the only way to ensure you are buying the real McCoy.
I recently had a newer Ford Fusion with a bad hydraulic engine mount that would vibrate like crazy under acceleration, and then smooth out. We put an "Anchor" engine mount in it. Problem solved. 2 days later the car came back with a vibration only in reverse. Next thing you know the boss is bitching at me about a comeback! So we get another "Anchor" mount. This one only vibrates at idle when in drive. Third time was the charm. We got a Motorcraft mount from Ford, and no problems ever since. Some car parts just suck these days!!!
I know that feel I had a brand new set of lifters and camshaft break in when smoothly, no metal or anything in the filters or oil on both oil changes after the break in. move forward 4 weeks later, the normal day started the engine no issues drove to a job I was doing no problems, started the engine up, no problems went on the same highway home by the time I got into my parking spot put it into the park just the loudest ticking rough idling, pulled the valve cover off checked the rockers 1 was able to be pushed up and down freely no oil pressure retained in the lifter pulled the intake off the retaining clip that holes the valve inside the lifter had magicly popped out was sitting beside the lifter in the valley, and 2 other lifters you could see the retainer just starting to pop out of its seat on 2 others well that 1 lifter that had no retainer was half the size it used to be wiped 1 lobe out, lifter had to be pushed into the block to retrieve it never seen anything like it in my entire mechanical career
No fun for sure. It's a lot of work building an engine to that point and have something happen. That cam break in is a critical time and that's a tough decision to make when the engines been running for a bit. Can't say I wouldn't have made the same decision you did. Shutting off early also presents a risk. Keep up the great work. Channel is a lot of fun to watch.
Well i understand the plunger wasn't coming back up on the lifter right but that usually doesn't dip those lifters from my experience adjusting the valve wrong and making the rocker too tight dips them out and please correct me if I'm wrong
Common problem is when you change camshafts you have to break them in you have to use high zinc type oil or your problem will happen again the oil these days will not have the zinc additive in it anymore zinc will plug up the catalytic converter. That's why your lifter could have failed.
That sucks brother. A disappointment for sure but you guys will get it right. I'm glad that you show your failures as well as victories because we all have both. Cheers.
I can remember standing right where you are at Uncle Tony. I had one failure like that out of dozens and I have never recovered from the experience...so much so I became a solid roller guy. So are you going to pull it and tare it down or look for another option ? It sucks ☹️.
Why was there a lack of oil to that cam lobe and lifter? Did others have the same damage? My though. The failure of the lifter internals should have no affect on lubricating the surface between the bottom of the lifter and the cam lobe. Sucks big time.
Did the same thing. Built a 360 first pass 12:48 second pass slower, third pass slower. By the time I got home it was really raping. Same lifter same cam. I would of liked to have known what the problem was. Cam or lifter or break in .
Sorry to hear about that, but i have a question. In a lot of older japanese motors, like b series hondas and both motors in miatas, lifter tick is just kinda something people have considered normal and harmless. Is it just that these motors are designed in a way that consequintally has loud lifters, or are most people's 80s and 90s japanese cars really not running so hot? What happens if you don't address lifter tick? My miata had the 1.8 and it ticked like hell, and i kinda grew to like the rhythmic clicky clacky sound off throttle, and it ran with no drivetrain issues for two years up until i got rid of it. Whats the scoop tony and friends?
Just ate a Comp Cam in my 67 GTX on break in! POS! Junk shouldn't go bad on break in it's shitty heat treating! Built many before without issue. Put in a Howard's cam and it's fine!
I have a dumb question. Would this happen right out of the box? When i get new lifters i submege them in a shallow can with oil,set on my cleaned drill press and cycle a rod using the press to activate it. Just wonderign if maybe it could have been indetified before installing. Man it isnt a good feeling at all when this happens. Good luck with bottle rocket break in part 2!
Built this thing for super quick teardown in mind knowing we'd be swapping pistons and head gaskets at the track. About 20 minute total to get it to that point
@@UncleTonysGarage Planning ahead for accessibility pays off. Weather it's for a quick parts swap out, or just a repair. Knowing this during the break in probably influenced your decision to roll the dice. The strength that comes from knowing. 😉
good info to know..... about to rebuild my dads 440 that lost oil pressure for no apparent reason (got pressure back after new filter, and rebuilding oil pump...but old one looked perfect) however, im not good with valve trains YET.... so ive got a question a lifter tick when cold that goes away when warn (now days its still slightly their when warm)...... WTF cases it to quite down sure, metal expands..... takes up the slack but is the lifter not pumping up all the way till it gets warm / warm oil? pretty sure my 99 GM 3.1 has flat tappet hydraulic lifters..... AKA stock ~70s/80s SBC style if i were to just replace the bad lifter (or two....260,000 engine) would i need to replace the cam as well..... if it was not worn?? and break in? even if motor is designed for SN/SM oil..... do i still need zinc???
@@UncleTonysGarage ya, IDK..... ive got a perfectly good 3.9 from my sisters deer crushed 07 impala motor mounts are THE SAME...... hardest part is the wiring harness hell, even the ECU mounts in the same place so its kinda like..... do i want to replace a lifter or two..... inspect the cam, and possibly replace a cam or simply swap in a WAY more powerful motor i kinda like the idea of having a "sleeper" buick centiry even if its not 400hp+...... that 3.9 makes 240hp, and a VERY flat torque curve VS my "nothing till 5000, then over at 6000" 3.1 v6...... it would REALLY wake that 3200 pound car up
@@UncleTonysGarage but again... why would i need zinc? ive been running carquest SN 5w-30..... recently moved to castroil GTX high mileage 5w-30 both of which have no zinc..... however, i have ZERO metal in the filter or on the end of the drain plug..... and besides the lifter tick.... the motor runs great now my dads 440..... ya, id run zinc, obviously but in a 1998 block...... sure, it would not hurt it (besides the cat converter) but again, isnt that motor designed for low/no zinc?
Another reason UTG is great! Owning what happened, and sharing it to us! Right here is the meat and potatoes, the good, the bad , and the ugly! Rock on UTG!!!!!
Won't see that ownership on the blogs, forums and other professional builders. (on the horse farm we had a saying, when in doubt bail out, you can always ride it again when you have things figured out). Pride can be a mountain too high, not sure but I think there's a song about it....
Never had that luck. Followed break in to the letter and wiped a couple of cams. It is a huge setback. Life, hot rods, and racing continues. Best wishes from Oklahoma, Mike and Vee
I literally bathed my cam in assembly lube. You couldnt tell where lobes started and lube ended. Havent started it yet though, waiting on a couple more small parts to button everything up. Sbc with .480 lift, 108 lsa, 231 dur.
Back when I assembled engines for my rides, the cam lobes' and lifters' break-in protection, was central in my my mind. Just before their installation, the hydraulic lifters were placed in a clean pot of the engine oil used in the engine, and heated to and kept at 200°F for an hour. During this hour, I plunged each lifter in the pot, 3-4 times with a wooden dowel. Then the oil and lifters were slowly cooled to room temp. The lifters remained in the oil, until installed. The cam lobes and lifters were generously coated with a dedicated, top notch, break-in paste! I also filled the engine oil filter 90% full, when I installed it. Getting oil pressure to all parts of the engine during break-in immediately, was a no brainer to me. So-o-o, a build-up of proper oil pressure for a good 15-20 secconds, before the engine was started, by whatever means necessary for that engine, was essential and always done!
@@skywaycity Nope, just a real serious car guy who very early on, understood and witnessed the benefits of using only distilled water along with antifreeze in the rad, full synthetic oils, premium struts and shocks, adding brake cooling deflectors, hated and corrected many powertrain leaks, and who did more to make carburetors, early fuel inj. systems, ignition systems, and intake manifolds, work well than ever was CARB legal, 'cause I had to, the manufacturers in those days did not! But by the late 1990's my body couldn't take any more abuse, so-o-o I became a desktop computer guy!
kodo nosaki I always run the oil pump with a drill while turning the crank until oil pressure reads on the gauge. Never had a problem. I remember when manually pumping up lifters was common practice?
kodo nosaki I kinda do the same thing pre charge the lifters in a can of oil using a drill press with a old pushrod and using the action of the drill press to pump the lifters up by hand , never had a problem
Don't know if you know this or not Unc, but most lifter "manufacturers" are actually "repackagers" despite their claims of being a manufacturer, also some of the "made in America" lifters are actually from components mostly made in China or Mexico and then assembled in the USA and passed off as "Made in America", I've run into these same issues with Harley's (later model Harley's have the same lifters as Chevy LS engines) trying to sort out lifter issues with them from the same big name supposed manufacturers. There's a company called Johnson Lifters that I've had pretty good results from. P.S. When I saw the thumbnail I thought it was the cars cigarette lighter you had in your hand and thought "This should be interesting".
Boot is right it's lost time even with a free camshaft and lifters out of the deal. All I can say is should have gone solid lift. One less thing to go wrong that way seeing how this is going to be a toy anyway just bite the bullet and re-adjust those valves as needed.
I put them in a coffee can for a day filled with engine oil working the plunger to get the air out of them. Really the failure that Tony had was something that happened after he had already started the engine. I'm sure he had bled the air out of them by working the plunger inside prior to installing them he's a pretty smart guy so it had to be a failure that wasn't happening before he had installed them. All of the race engines I built for dirt were high rpm applications so we did away with hydraulic lifters and replaced them with solid lifters to prevent valve float at higher rpms. We also upped the valve seat pressure to prevent valve float which will eventually end up wearing the cam lobes down. About every 3 years we replaced our camshafts because of lobe wear causing the valve lift to slowly decrease. Just about any serious muscle car "intended for the drag strip" from the sixties came factory with solid lifters that require adjustment periodically. The only failure you can have with solid lifters is a lifter not spinning in the lifter bore nothing collapses hydraulically as a hydraulic lifter would fail.
True, true... but that’s kinda the risk any home mechanic or small shop runs by doing the work on our own stuff, even if you can prove there was a manufacturing defect, you never, ever get compensated for time lost. 98% of us home based wrench heads would even be lucky to get a cam out of the deal if we didn’t buy the cam and lifters all at once from the same manufacturer...
If wrenching is your passion make it make money for you. I work as a technician for an independent shop in Jeffersonville Indiana and love it. There is a shortage of technicians nation-wide so even if all you know is the basics of simple engines your employer will pay for you to be trained in the latest manufacturer technical aspects. I grew up wrenching on anything with an engine and I make good money for the things I was taught at no expense to me. Every bit of my education was paid for by an employer. Now the guys I work with at the local parts stores are servicing shops all over town and any problem I have with a part that I can prove gets fixed because of the account the shop has with each parts store. The upside of working on vehicles as a career is the guys you see at the counter don't dare question your intelligence when it come to failures because those same guys come to me when they can't figure out the problems with their own cars figure in the account through the shop I work for and they know just to make us happy because the guy using to parts on a daily basis can always change his supplier. 40,000$ a month accounts aren't easy for parts distributors to come by.
Thats a very good point that most never think of and I agree 100%. Best is an exhaust that's quiet at idle but still flows well when you get on it. Want to be able to hear the noises from u-joints, wheel bearings, brakes, suspension and everything else before a significant failure occurs.
these situations are good tho share, i do not root for failure, but if someone this talented can have a problem, i don't feel as bad with all the stupid crap i do
That sucks nothing worse than defective parts, you weren't being lazy you just trusted that your reliable parts were reliable and trusted them to be reliable, in my line of work that would be a labor claim.
Ouch. Sometimes the bear has sexy time with WHILE eating you face. Lesson to the new guys just learning how to build engines watching this. As you may have noticed, it doesn't matter how long you have been working on engines, sometimes the best of us make mistakes. So DON'T be too hard on yourselves! IF we can LEARN something from our failures we will know better what NOT to do NEXT time. This is called EXPERIENCE! Sometimes we learn this from watching the failures of others, sometimes we have to crash & burn ourselves. Fortunately for (some of) us we might not to have to make the same mistake as you unfortunately did. Maybe we can learn from your experiences Unka T. Cheer up. You shared a valuable lesson here!
Test parts whenever possible. And if it's ticking ,shut it down quick, before it grenades. Last time I changed a (Mexican-made) starter, two out of three were bad in the box.
Any spec of dirt could have caused that lifter to fail. When I managed the machine shop at the company I worked for we had a clean room set up for engine assembly. In Arizona during Monsoon Season we have dust storms the pr cede the rain whenever the storm passes over the desert. All that dust can doom an otherwise perfect engine build. But the clean room was sealed off and air conditioned. We NEVER had an engine we built come back for warranty repair. The only engine failures were assembled by the owner, and those were divided between dirt getting in the engine and the reuse of the oil pump pickup on small block Chevys combined with the use of way too much silicone on the oil pan gasket. When the gasket was tightened down it would pinch off a piece of silicone. The oil pump pick up tube screen on small block Chevys are designed to pull away from the tube when they become clogged, allowing oil to keep circulating thru the engine. Then, the guy would clean the screen and reuse it, not realizing that it no longer protected the oil pump from sucking in debris, and the pump would suck in that bead of pinched off silicone and sieze the pump. If the builder used the factory nylon oil pump shaft coupler, the coupler would break off, the shaft would then pop off the side of the oil pump and the engine would siege from lack of lubrication. Every time I’ve ever gotten a small block Chevy in that had failed, the first thing I would do is pop off the oil pump cover, and about 95% of the time that was the issue. The other 5% would be either dirt that had gotten into the engine or some other less common cause. For instance we had a customer that was a pilot. He bought a new Corvette every year, and his collection went all the way back to 1954. In 1982 he bought his Vette for the year and after carefully breaking in the engine he took it to the tack where the engine blew up. He brought it into to us for repair and we immediately noticed the window blown thru the block. One of the rods had let go and turned the bottom end to gravel. We weighed the remaining piston and connecting rod assembly’s and found that they were 15 grams off. This was on a factory Balanced engine! We sourced a large journal 327 with the proper Corvette heads and built that for him. We would have put a 350 crank in it, but the 327 crank was forged and already had 6” forged rods instead of 5.7” rods. The car was much quicker than with the 350 before it blew.
I remember my oil pump went out on my 1974 c10 back in 2016. I changed the pump and the new one failed a week later and seized the engine. Still wonder why to this day
You have to clean sand blasted parts real well too. Engine builders say its real common to have sand blasted intakes etc still have sand in them after so called being cleaned
It was a faulty part who th e fuck in the real world has a clean room to build a engine you were in a fucking desert go to drag strip whatch a top fuel team put a engine together it isn’t no clean room it’s outside it was the company a faulty lifter thers lots of parts all the time has nothing to do with were they built it
No the pickup is not designed to to that, SBC pickups vibrate off the pump. Always weld the pickup tube to the pump. Pumps are cheap and disposable, entire engines on the other hand... well
Jeff Leblanc you can put up plastic sheeting like guys who paint their own cars do. Then if there’s any foul weather bag the engine and seal t off until you can blow the dust out of your assembly space. It doesn’t hVe to be perfect, but the cleaner the environment the better.
In any other field of work a decent batter's record would get you fired, drummed out of the business and likely sued for gross incompetence lol. Doctors and auto mechanics cant brag about battin 500!
Don't feel bad Uncle Tony, happened when I borrowed my dad's 75 lawn boy, started it up to cut the grass, same thing yet was going thud thud thud, so I raised the idle and out came a chunk of dog shit the size of New Hampshire, and wham, right in the side of my Cordoba
I appreciate you telling us the truth, straight up, because we all roll the dice sometimes in our lives and get bit by it. Just gonna have to wait for perfection. 🤗
Not telling you want to do, but this is why I always try to remember test new lifters by manually pushing down on the plunger a few times. It might have caught this. I do the same with new roller rockers, just play with the rollers a bit to see if anything feels weird before I put them in - anything with moving or spinning parts. I'm not a 100% either. We all live and learn.
In Big L speak. My Mood would have been... “Darker than a Black Steer’s tuckus on a moonless prairie night.” Wrenches would have been thrown and foul language uttered. Hopefully, the Eagles weren’t playing on the radio. C”mon Man. I hate the fucking Eagles. But life goes on. The Dude abides. That’s why this is a fantastic channel. Everyone’s been there. Damn. I’m sorry Dude. Let’s go bowling.
It wasn’t being lazy he took a chance that the oil would come up but the lifter was fucked so the oil didn’t come up and chewed the cam that’s not lazy it’s he wasn’t cautious as soon as it was ticking he should have shut it down and he though like most we will give it a little longer but the lifter being fucked so nothing to do with being lazy he took a chance and he lost
Uncle Tony, you can't just put a new cam and lifters and oil in it. With that much metal off the lobe and lifter, you need to pull it out, flip it over and look at the crank. You will find at the very least the bearings have a bunch of metal in them, but probably like me, you will find the crank all scored up. Yup that lousy lifter(s) just cost you $2000. Bearings gaskets, crank and roller cam etc. This is a lousy club.
Well, Tony, I don't have a vintage car to play around with, but I do have a vintage motorcycle. A 1975 Yamaha RD250, been converted to a 350, expansion chambers, banshee crossover tube, modified carbs, billet clutch basket, etc. Installed a dyna ignition, and since I was into the bike for so much money already, I didn't replace the stock voltage regulator and rectifier. The other day, noticed my headlight getting brighter and dimmer at a steady throttle. Hmmm... Then the bike started to backfire and lose the right cylinder. Uh oh... I do believe I cooked the magnetic pickup by the magneto overheating from no voltage regulation... Oh and when I went to ensure the timing was still good, I dropped my dial indicator on the concrete and broke it. So, that's off to Central Tools now to be fixed. You're not alone in frustrations. Trust me!
My luck there.It can really get a person down sometimes.Only thing that can be done is not let it get the best of you.Lift your head up and try, try again.Adventually you'll be proud as hell of what you had done.Sometimes if it wasn't for bad luck a person wouldn't have no luck at all.So I'm saying be cheerful and when it does come your way think of SMEAT it'll crack you up every time.
@@moparedtn I'm just guessing those 2 since they're the most common parts store brands. With Enginetech being the cheapest. I don't really have anything bad to say about either one. In fact I'm pretty sure the lifters I put in my Chevy a few years ago were Enginetech. And they've been running fine ever since. Not to mention the fact that it's really an installer error that caused the problem. Lifters come prefilled with oil. It would have been pretty obvious it was bad if he'd pushed on it like that before installing it. "It'll pump up"? Really? No. Like I said, it should have already been "pumped up"/full of oil out of the box. Sticky plunger? No. That's not the problem either. It should be solid as a rock when you push on it like that(when it's "pumped up"/full of oil). It's leaking oil BADLY. They will NEVER be collapsed like that otherwise.
Thats why uncle tony is everyones uncle hes wrestled with the bear he doesn't want you to have to wrestle the bear but he tells us no matter what it can happen and you gotta take that sexy time with the bear like i champ and learn from it
I bought a 73 duster original 340 motor a 4 speed it was backfiring through carb. Bad lobe.I put a cam dynamics cam a lifters in it.I soak the new lifters in oil before installing a when it cranks i throttle it back a forth for about 10 min a have never lost a lobe or lifter. It was a blazer pulling type cam.it pulled like a big block.disappointing I know but things happen for a reason sometimes.hang in there.
Grind off one lobe on flat tappet and here comes tear down$$$$. Fix that mess and$$$$. After that $$$$. Buy and install hydraulic roller camshaft and lifters at initial build. Save$$$$ and mental trauma.
Funny. I spend my summer here rebuilding my NP 445 for my 76 w200 400 powerwagon. Lasted 20km and it ate a spacer causing enough slop that it engaged into third gear when I was in second. I did hear something funny like two minutes earlier but I figured to ignore it. Looking for another NP445 4 speed.... just sayin
Well if it's got tits or tires it's going to give you trouble. What about guys who used to pump up there lifters in a can of oil with an old push rod? Would that have made a difference? On Chevys we have a priming tool made out of a 3/8 rod or an old distributor. It goes in the end of a 3/8 drill. And we prime the oil pump until we see oil shooting out all of the pushrods and rocker arms. I noticed on the slant six that you prime the oil pump before you install it in the motor. Or is this just a bad part and it was going to screw you one way or the other. There will be better days Tony.
Thumbs up for your honesty brother 👍
Freakin sucks though.
Feeling your pain.
IDGRAF
Me too. literally. I just had the same happen. not sure yet if its a faulty lifter or the lifter didn't turn.
Just got it apart. for mine, the spring portion was completely seized so that it behaved like a solid lifter.
My last V8 build was back in '01. Never had a part fail. This goes with what I've been saying: It's not unreasonable to suspect name-brand companies to "roll the dice" and use cheaper made parts and put their stamp on it, or in their packaging. We used to be able to see the difference between American made parts, and cheap knock offs. Now its hard to tell. Looks good, but the quality of materials, and good tolerances can't be seen with the naked eye. I think its "buyer beware" with everything, nowadays.
Absolutely. Now even direct car manufacturer replacement parts are suspect. They will sometimes start using some cheap Chinese part and putting their label and box etc. Seen GM do it with brake rotors, exhaust, etc. where the part used to be exactly as put on the car at the factory, but now cheeping out on the replacement part, but still charging as assembly line quality. Such is our world today.
Damn right
TargaWheels I don’t think they used cheaper parts ther is not a company out ther that don’t screw up I’m sure they are quality lifters shit happens don’t mean they were chinese it means every thing can fuck up no matter we’re the part was made I don’t think he bought cheap lifters I think it was one of them things you can buy the very best and it still can be a defect goes to show you nothing is perfect but the best part is most would have come up with some bullshit or he could have run out bought a cam and lifters and no one would know the difference so that makes this a very real channel that he was honest we all roll the dice once in a while especially on something like that you are all pumped up for the big day and he was hoping the oil would come up but a little ticking and boom fucked the whole day great channel honest good learning video on don’t matter how good you are don’t be in a hurry most would have prob done the same as he did but most would not have told the truth so I don’t blame the company everything is not perfect even that
Over half of the Ac Delco and Motorcraft fuel pumps on Ebay and Amazon are cheap Chinese knock off's in what appears to be genuine OEM packaging. They last for about a year and then fail. People think the quality of Ac Delco and Motorcraft have fallen off when the reality is they have been scammed. The problem is so bad they have a website to report the fake knock off brand name parts. I now buy as close as I can to the manufacturer and avoid any middle men. It's the only way to ensure you are buying the real McCoy.
@@jeffleblanc8850 110%
THE RUSH TO THE FINISH CAN LEAD TO INDISCRETION, THATS WHAT SHE SAID!!! THX FOR TEACHING US THIS VALUABLE LESSON, THE HARD WAY.
Sorry this happened, on the bright side, you taught a lot of people including me. Thanks for the post.
Like the real thing no fake news happens to the best of us most often they will pump up.
Super respect for honesty ... seldom seen these days.
We all do that stuff, the difference is, you're honest about it! Thanks, Uncle Tony, for always keeping it real! ✌🏻
I recently had a newer Ford Fusion with a bad hydraulic engine mount that would vibrate like crazy under acceleration, and then smooth out. We put an "Anchor" engine mount in it. Problem solved. 2 days later the car came back with a vibration only in reverse. Next thing you know the boss is bitching at me about a comeback! So we get another "Anchor" mount. This one only vibrates at idle when in drive. Third time was the charm. We got a Motorcraft mount from Ford, and no problems ever since. Some car parts just suck these days!!!
I know that feel I had a brand new set of lifters and camshaft break in when smoothly, no metal or anything in the filters or oil on both oil changes after the break in. move forward 4 weeks later, the normal day started the engine no issues drove to a job I was doing no problems, started the engine up, no problems went on the same highway home by the time I got into my parking spot put it into the park just the loudest ticking rough idling, pulled the valve cover off checked the rockers 1 was able to be pushed up and down freely no oil pressure retained in the lifter pulled the intake off the retaining clip that holes the valve inside the lifter had magicly popped out was sitting beside the lifter in the valley, and 2 other lifters you could see the retainer just starting to pop out of its seat on 2 others well that 1 lifter that had no retainer was half the size it used to be wiped 1 lobe out, lifter had to be pushed into the block to retrieve it never seen anything like it in my entire mechanical career
No fun for sure. It's a lot of work building an engine to that point and have something happen. That cam break in is a critical time and that's a tough decision to make when the engines been running for a bit. Can't say I wouldn't have made the same decision you did. Shutting off early also presents a risk.
Keep up the great work. Channel is a lot of fun to watch.
I love learning. Keep it up Uncle Tony!!!
Well i understand the plunger wasn't coming back up on the lifter right but that usually doesn't dip those lifters from my experience adjusting the valve wrong and making the rocker too tight dips them out and please correct me if I'm wrong
Common problem is when you change camshafts you have to break them in you have to use high zinc type oil or your problem will happen again the oil these days will not have the zinc additive in it anymore zinc will plug up the catalytic converter. That's why your lifter could have failed.
yes you're right - & you've enough EXPERIENCE TO KNOW BETTER !!!!
Damn it man, shit happens though. Nothing worse than having to take shit back apart after ya work your ass off.
That sucks brother. A disappointment for sure but you guys will get it right. I'm glad that you show your failures as well as victories because we all have both. Cheers.
Ouch! Hotrodding can give pretty depressing results sometimes. This last year with my rigs has showed me how lucky I *USED* to be.
I can remember standing right where you are at Uncle Tony. I had one failure like that out of dozens and I have never recovered from the experience...so much so I became a solid roller guy. So are you going to pull it and tare it down or look for another option ? It sucks ☹️.
We're just going to flush the oil and throw a new cam at it.
Why was there a lack of oil to that cam lobe and lifter? Did others have the same damage? My though. The failure of the lifter internals should have no affect on lubricating the surface between the bottom of the lifter and the cam lobe. Sucks big time.
Did the same thing. Built a 360 first pass 12:48 second pass slower, third pass slower. By the time I got home it was really raping. Same lifter same cam. I would of liked to have known what the problem was. Cam or lifter or break in .
Well that sucks.
Been there done that.... Totally sucks..... I left it tick and the push rod ovaled the slot in the head.
Sorry to hear about that, but i have a question. In a lot of older japanese motors, like b series hondas and both motors in miatas, lifter tick is just kinda something people have considered normal and harmless. Is it just that these motors are designed in a way that consequintally has loud lifters, or are most people's 80s and 90s japanese cars really not running so hot? What happens if you don't address lifter tick? My miata had the 1.8 and it ticked like hell, and i kinda grew to like the rhythmic clicky clacky sound off throttle, and it ran with no drivetrain issues for two years up until i got rid of it. Whats the scoop tony and friends?
Yup been there shit does happen all the time.
Just ate a Comp Cam in my 67 GTX on break in! POS! Junk shouldn't go bad on break in it's shitty heat treating! Built many before without issue. Put in a Howard's cam and it's fine!
Building your dream vehicles is like going too hell and back because those so called bolt on parts are not so bolt on .
Damn bro thats why I like link bar hydro roolers good luck
Man I know that feeling
These solid or hydraulic lifters? Yeah I am not a wrench but eager to learn.
I’m not too far away from firing up my international harvester 392 motor and I am f-king terrified. Do you know what parts cost for those things???
Thats more the lifter cam manufacturers defect ! what is it a wolverine blue racer ? unfortunately the cam is now a paperweight
I have a dumb question. Would this happen right out of the box?
When i get new lifters i submege them in a shallow can with oil,set on my cleaned drill press and cycle a rod using the press to activate it. Just wonderign if maybe it could have been indetified before installing.
Man it isnt a good feeling at all when this happens.
Good luck with bottle rocket break in part 2!
Uuuuuugggggghhhh... man. Sorry for the set back. The term "It is what it is" was invented for just such a situation.
Ouch !
I have to ask y’all spoon after when he got done with you??
Did you have to remove the cam again
Turns out it was a bad lifter, bottle rocket is still having problems.
Bummer about what happened. You got pretty far with the teardown afterwards if all this happened just today?
Built this thing for super quick teardown in mind knowing we'd be swapping pistons and head gaskets at the track. About 20 minute total to get it to that point
@@UncleTonysGarage Planning ahead for accessibility pays off. Weather it's for a quick parts swap out, or just a repair. Knowing this during the break in probably influenced your decision to roll the dice. The strength that comes from knowing. 😉
@@1962pjb that's a pretty 69u got there
@@EASTSIDE-313 Thanks! Been working on it off and on. Little things. Never ending, but that's part of the hobby. 🤗
Is the cam wasted? Will you pull the oil filter and check for that metal or just run it?
It's wasted
I'm lost for words is all I got to say about that it seems good parts are hard to come by now I know why everyone uses roller lifters now days
First.... o damn.... you'll get it.... #utg
good info to know..... about to rebuild my dads 440 that lost oil pressure for no apparent reason (got pressure back after new filter, and rebuilding oil pump...but old one looked perfect)
however, im not good with valve trains YET.... so ive got a question
a lifter tick when cold that goes away when warn (now days its still slightly their when warm)...... WTF cases it to quite down
sure, metal expands..... takes up the slack
but is the lifter not pumping up all the way till it gets warm / warm oil?
pretty sure my 99 GM 3.1 has flat tappet hydraulic lifters..... AKA stock ~70s/80s SBC style
if i were to just replace the bad lifter (or two....260,000 engine)
would i need to replace the cam as well..... if it was not worn??
and break in?
even if motor is designed for SN/SM oil..... do i still need zinc???
Honestly, at that mileage, I'd change out the cam also. And yes, you definitely need zinc in there
@@UncleTonysGarage ya, IDK..... ive got a perfectly good 3.9 from my sisters deer crushed 07 impala
motor mounts are THE SAME...... hardest part is the wiring harness
hell, even the ECU mounts in the same place
so its kinda like..... do i want to replace a lifter or two..... inspect the cam, and possibly replace a cam
or simply swap in a WAY more powerful motor
i kinda like the idea of having a "sleeper" buick centiry
even if its not 400hp+...... that 3.9 makes 240hp, and a VERY flat torque curve
VS my "nothing till 5000, then over at 6000" 3.1 v6...... it would REALLY wake that 3200 pound car up
@@UncleTonysGarage but again...
why would i need zinc?
ive been running carquest SN 5w-30.....
recently moved to castroil GTX high mileage 5w-30
both of which have no zinc.....
however, i have ZERO metal in the filter or on the end of the drain plug..... and besides the lifter tick.... the motor runs great
now my dads 440..... ya, id run zinc, obviously
but in a 1998 block...... sure, it would not hurt it (besides the cat converter)
but again, isnt that motor designed for low/no zinc?
How is Lamchop coping with this?
Another reason UTG is great! Owning what happened, and sharing it to us! Right here is the meat and potatoes, the good, the bad , and the ugly! Rock on UTG!!!!!
Won't see that ownership on the blogs, forums and other professional builders. (on the horse farm we had a saying, when in doubt bail out, you can always ride it again when you have things figured out).
Pride can be a mountain too high, not sure but I think there's a song about it....
Never had that luck. Followed break in to the letter and wiped a couple of cams. It is a huge setback. Life, hot rods, and racing continues.
Best wishes from Oklahoma,
Mike and Vee
Poetry
This shit makes your channel real for the common guy!
Smooth Rider yep , this guy forgot more than I’ll ever know
Mabye we can start a flat cam support group.....
Yeah, because rehab's for quitters!
that's funny!
SFT. No dootaboot it!
I am an addict more flat cams than i can count. I even bought a set of the stupid break in rockers
@@stevetaylor9265 i used the comp cams break-in lube the second time, and it worked!
Unfortunately Uncle Tony sometimes sh#t just happens 😐
The facebook guys will have all the answers why it did not work out LOL
Ain't nothing worse than initial cam break in. Almost hate to start them. Good video tho
yeah....but ya gotta fire it !
Yep
Roller lifters are the solution. Pricey but worth it.
I literally bathed my cam in assembly lube. You couldnt tell where lobes started and lube ended. Havent started it yet though, waiting on a couple more small parts to button everything up. Sbc with .480 lift, 108 lsa, 231 dur.
@@johnwirk You probably already know this but as soon as it starts keep the rpms above 2500 for the first 20 mins.
Back when I assembled engines for my rides, the cam lobes' and lifters' break-in protection, was central in my my mind. Just before their installation, the hydraulic lifters were placed in a clean pot of the engine oil used in the engine, and heated to and kept at 200°F for an hour. During this hour, I plunged each lifter in the pot, 3-4 times with a wooden dowel. Then the oil and lifters were slowly cooled to room temp. The lifters remained in the oil, until installed. The cam lobes and lifters were generously coated with a dedicated, top notch, break-in paste! I also filled the engine oil filter 90% full, when I installed it. Getting oil pressure to all parts of the engine during break-in immediately, was a no brainer to me. So-o-o, a build-up of proper oil pressure for a good 15-20 secconds, before the engine was started, by whatever means necessary for that engine, was essential and always done!
Good advice, I boiled lifters in oil also. And The one time I didn't. Well, I ended up with two stuck lifters.
ARE YOU A WIZARD
@@skywaycity Nope, just a real serious car guy who very early on, understood and witnessed the benefits of using only distilled water along with antifreeze in the rad, full synthetic oils, premium struts and shocks, adding brake cooling deflectors, hated and corrected many powertrain leaks, and who did more to make carburetors, early fuel inj. systems, ignition systems, and intake manifolds, work well than ever was CARB legal, 'cause I had to, the manufacturers in those days did not! But by the late 1990's my body couldn't take any more abuse, so-o-o I became a desktop computer guy!
kodo nosaki I always run the oil pump with a drill while turning the crank until oil pressure reads on the gauge. Never had a problem. I remember when manually pumping up lifters was common practice?
kodo nosaki I kinda do the same thing pre charge the lifters in a can of oil using a drill press with a old pushrod and using the action of the drill press to pump the lifters up by hand , never had a problem
In this life I've learned more from my f-ups than my successes, though it is a brutal way to learn ....
Don't know if you know this or not Unc, but most lifter "manufacturers" are actually "repackagers" despite their claims of being a manufacturer, also some of the "made in America" lifters are actually from components mostly made in China or Mexico and then assembled in the USA and passed off as "Made in America", I've run into these same issues with Harley's (later model Harley's have the same lifters as Chevy LS engines) trying to sort out lifter issues with them from the same big name supposed manufacturers. There's a company called Johnson Lifters that I've had pretty good results from.
P.S. When I saw the thumbnail I thought it was the cars cigarette lighter you had in your hand and thought "This should be interesting".
I'm gonna tell you the same words that gave me no comfort whatsoever... nothing worthwhile ever comes easy.
Happens to us all friend.
Ouch.but it can happen to anyone.it was you this time.so sorry Uncle Tony.
Sad day! Well maybe you can get the manufacturer of the defective lifter to buy you a new cam?
Still they won't clean the engine and replace the gaskets, filter or fluids, not to mention the time lost.
Boot is right it's lost time even with a free camshaft and lifters out of the deal. All I can say is should have gone solid lift. One less thing to go wrong that way seeing how this is going to be a toy anyway just bite the bullet and re-adjust those valves as needed.
I put them in a coffee can for a day filled with engine oil working the plunger to get the air out of them. Really the failure that Tony had was something that happened after he had already started the engine. I'm sure he had bled the air out of them by working the plunger inside prior to installing them he's a pretty smart guy so it had to be a failure that wasn't happening before he had installed them. All of the race engines I built for dirt were high rpm applications so we did away with hydraulic lifters and replaced them with solid lifters to prevent valve float at higher rpms. We also upped the valve seat pressure to prevent valve float which will eventually end up wearing the cam lobes down. About every 3 years we replaced our camshafts because of lobe wear causing the valve lift to slowly decrease. Just about any serious muscle car "intended for the drag strip" from the sixties came factory with solid lifters that require adjustment periodically. The only failure you can have with solid lifters is a lifter not spinning in the lifter bore nothing collapses hydraulically as a hydraulic lifter would fail.
True, true... but that’s kinda the risk any home mechanic or small shop runs by doing the work on our own stuff, even if you can prove there was a manufacturing defect, you never, ever get compensated for time lost. 98% of us home based wrench heads would even be lucky to get a cam out of the deal if we didn’t buy the cam and lifters all at once from the same manufacturer...
If wrenching is your passion make it make money for you. I work as a technician for an independent shop in Jeffersonville Indiana and love it. There is a shortage of technicians nation-wide so even if all you know is the basics of simple engines your employer will pay for you to be trained in the latest manufacturer technical aspects. I grew up wrenching on anything with an engine and I make good money for the things I was taught at no expense to me. Every bit of my education was paid for by an employer. Now the guys I work with at the local parts stores are servicing shops all over town and any problem I have with a part that I can prove gets fixed because of the account the shop has with each parts store. The upside of working on vehicles as a career is the guys you see at the counter don't dare question your intelligence when it come to failures because those same guys come to me when they can't figure out the problems with their own cars figure in the account through the shop I work for and they know just to make us happy because the guy using to parts on a daily basis can always change his supplier. 40,000$ a month accounts aren't easy for parts distributors to come by.
The cam is dead, the crappy pissed offness will dissipate and you will live again. Time to play with your dog and pet the cat.
Oohh nooo!! Sounds like my normal day..
Ouch. In spades. I hate when this happens. The MAIN reason I want quiet mufflers on a fresh build. I wanna hear that engine!!! Sorry, bro.
Thats a very good point that most never think of and I agree 100%. Best is an exhaust that's quiet at idle but still flows well when you get on it. Want to be able to hear the noises from u-joints, wheel bearings, brakes, suspension and everything else before a significant failure occurs.
@@jeffnorbert1871sounds like experience talking!! Lol
Dudes looks sad. And more quiet. Then usual. I understand. Keep on wrenching 💯💯💯
@Curtis Fleabag
When I saw the thumbnail I thought he was holding the cars cigarette lighter in his hand, I thought "This should be interesting".
these situations are good tho share, i do not root for failure, but if someone this talented can have a problem, i don't feel as bad with all the stupid crap i do
That sucks nothing worse than defective parts, you weren't being lazy you just trusted that your reliable parts were reliable and trusted them to be reliable, in my line of work that would be a labor claim.
Ouch. Sometimes the bear has sexy time with WHILE eating you face.
Lesson to the new guys just learning how to build engines watching this. As you may have noticed, it doesn't matter how long you have been working on engines, sometimes the best of us make mistakes. So DON'T be too hard on yourselves!
IF we can LEARN something from our failures we will know better what NOT to do NEXT time.
This is called EXPERIENCE!
Sometimes we learn this from watching the failures of others, sometimes we have to crash & burn ourselves. Fortunately for (some of) us we might not to have to make the same mistake as you unfortunately did. Maybe we can learn from your experiences Unka T.
Cheer up. You shared a valuable lesson here!
Test parts whenever possible. And if it's ticking ,shut it down quick, before it grenades. Last time I changed a (Mexican-made) starter, two out of three were bad in the box.
I see no charges where pressed... Lol
As always... Much love unc'... See ya tomorrow
NEW ZEALAND!!!
Any spec of dirt could have caused that lifter to fail. When I managed the machine shop at the company I worked for we had a clean room set up for engine assembly. In Arizona during Monsoon Season we have dust storms the pr cede the rain whenever the storm passes over the desert. All that dust can doom an otherwise perfect engine build. But the clean room was sealed off and air conditioned. We NEVER had an engine we built come back for warranty repair. The only engine failures were assembled by the owner, and those were divided between dirt getting in the engine and the reuse of the oil pump pickup on small block Chevys combined with the use of way too much silicone on the oil pan gasket. When the gasket was tightened down it would pinch off a piece of silicone. The oil pump pick up tube screen on small block Chevys are designed to pull away from the tube when they become clogged, allowing oil to keep circulating thru the engine. Then, the guy would clean the screen and reuse it, not realizing that it no longer protected the oil pump from sucking in debris, and the pump would suck in that bead of pinched off silicone and sieze the pump. If the builder used the factory nylon oil pump shaft coupler, the coupler would break off, the shaft would then pop off the side of the oil pump and the engine would siege from lack of lubrication. Every time I’ve ever gotten a small block Chevy in that had failed, the first thing I would do is pop off the oil pump cover, and about 95% of the time that was the issue. The other 5% would be either dirt that had gotten into the engine or some other less common cause. For instance we had a customer that was a pilot. He bought a new Corvette every year, and his collection went all the way back to 1954. In 1982 he bought his Vette for the year and after carefully breaking in the engine he took it to the tack where the engine blew up. He brought it into to us for repair and we immediately noticed the window blown thru the block. One of the rods had let go and turned the bottom end to gravel. We weighed the remaining piston and connecting rod assembly’s and found that they were 15 grams off. This was on a factory Balanced engine! We sourced a large journal 327 with the proper Corvette heads and built that for him. We would have put a 350 crank in it, but the 327 crank was forged and already had 6” forged rods instead of 5.7” rods. The car was much quicker than with the 350 before it blew.
I remember my oil pump went out on my 1974 c10 back in 2016. I changed the pump and the new one failed a week later and seized the engine. Still wonder why to this day
You have to clean sand blasted parts real well too. Engine builders say its real common to have sand blasted intakes etc still have sand in them after so called being cleaned
It was a faulty part who th e fuck in the real world has a clean room to build a engine you were in a fucking desert go to drag strip whatch a top fuel team put a engine together it isn’t no clean room it’s outside it was the company a faulty lifter thers lots of parts all the time has nothing to do with were they built it
No the pickup is not designed to to that, SBC pickups vibrate off the pump. Always weld the pickup tube to the pump. Pumps are cheap and disposable, entire engines on the other hand... well
Jeff Leblanc you can put up plastic sheeting like guys who paint their own cars do. Then if there’s any foul weather bag the engine and seal t off until you can blow the dust out of your assembly space. It doesn’t hVe to be perfect, but the cleaner the environment the better.
One of them "Monday or Friday" made lifters...
Sometimes your the windshield, sometimes your the bug.
Thanks for another excellent lesson in rebuilding these classic motors. Peace.
Let me guess Comp cams I've had so many problems with their lifters, I've quit using them.
Ditto on that!
Comp is suspect but i think most of them use the same off shore manufacture.
Remember Uncle Tony that Babe Ruth didn't hit a home run every time he was at bat. Thank you for the video sir.
In any other field of work a decent batter's record would get you fired, drummed out of the business and likely sued for gross incompetence lol. Doctors and auto mechanics cant brag about battin 500!
Don't feel bad Uncle Tony, happened when I borrowed my dad's 75 lawn boy, started it up to cut the grass, same thing yet was going thud thud thud, so I raised the idle and out came a chunk of dog shit the size of New Hampshire, and wham, right in the side of my Cordoba
Did it ruin the fine Corinthian leather?
@@tthutch3898 ah yes....the Corinthian leather....
Sorry Uncle T!! We need more of that content.
I appreciate you telling us the truth, straight up, because we all roll the dice sometimes in our lives and get bit by it. Just gonna have to wait for perfection. 🤗
Now I'm even more scared of bears!
"sexy time with you before it eats your face" HAHAHAHAH
Same thing for me but on a chev.i was lazy also oh its new it will fix it's self
Lol
Not telling you want to do, but this is why I always try to remember test new lifters by manually pushing down on the plunger a few times. It might have caught this.
I do the same with new roller rockers, just play with the rollers a bit to see if anything feels weird before I put them in - anything with moving or spinning parts. I'm not a 100% either. We all live and learn.
Saddest of all; the entire motor has to be stripped down, disassembled and cleaned again. bummer!
No, it's not that bad. We'll flush out the crankcase with gas and go from there
If it's in the crank case how can it NOT be in the bearings?
It'll be fine. Flush it. Then spray it.
Daniel Scott the filter likely caught all the metal that isn’t stuck in the pickup tube.
@@danielscott6787 the bearings will grab and embed the tiny particles into the bearing material. i doubt its that big of a deal tbh.
Theres a saying
If it takes gas or oil or diamonds it will give you trouble sometime
Dont give up
As the great Popcorn Sutton once said"I didn't know what trouble was till I discovered gasoline and pu**y,That's a hell of a combination"
He just doesn’t want us to see it drive
Do it nice or Do it twice. ugggggggggg
Uncle Tony, we've all been there, no worries. I had a $20 flex fan destroy a $400 four core radiator once, lol.
At least your mistake was a defective part... I was just new to building cars and an idiot, lol.
Damn Murphy...
Oh Man .!! Sorry! but you are right ..... every break in is a roll of the dice. That’s a ugly feeling my sympathy to you. Be Well today
Man this video will really help work move along. Plus I get to learn something.
That sucks and I am sorry but that bear comment was so funny.
In Big L speak. My Mood would have been...
“Darker than a Black Steer’s tuckus on a moonless prairie night.”
Wrenches would have been thrown and foul language uttered.
Hopefully, the Eagles weren’t playing on the radio.
C”mon Man. I hate the fucking Eagles.
But life goes on.
The Dude abides.
That’s why this is a fantastic channel. Everyone’s been there. Damn. I’m sorry Dude.
Let’s go bowling.
Not many people of your status would man up and say, being lazy is the reason for the problem.
It wasn’t being lazy he took a chance that the oil would come up but the lifter was fucked so the oil didn’t come up and chewed the cam that’s not lazy it’s he wasn’t cautious as soon as it was ticking he should have shut it down and he though like most we will give it a little longer but the lifter being fucked so nothing to do with being lazy he took a chance and he lost
Jeff Leblanc yeah, because the fact he himself said he was lazy had nothing to do with it.
Uncle Tony, you can't just put a new cam and lifters and oil in it. With that much metal off the lobe and lifter, you need to pull it out, flip it over and look at the crank. You will find at the very least the bearings have a bunch of metal in them, but probably like me, you will find the crank all scored up. Yup that lousy lifter(s) just cost you $2000. Bearings gaskets, crank and roller cam etc. This is a lousy club.
Well, Tony, I don't have a vintage car to play around with, but I do have a vintage motorcycle. A 1975 Yamaha RD250, been converted to a 350, expansion chambers, banshee crossover tube, modified carbs, billet clutch basket, etc. Installed a dyna ignition, and since I was into the bike for so much money already, I didn't replace the stock voltage regulator and rectifier. The other day, noticed my headlight getting brighter and dimmer at a steady throttle. Hmmm... Then the bike started to backfire and lose the right cylinder. Uh oh... I do believe I cooked the magnetic pickup by the magneto overheating from no voltage regulation... Oh and when I went to ensure the timing was still good, I dropped my dial indicator on the concrete and broke it. So, that's off to Central Tools now to be fixed.
You're not alone in frustrations. Trust me!
My luck there.It can really get a person down sometimes.Only thing that can be done is not let it get the best of you.Lift your head up and try, try again.Adventually you'll be proud as hell of what you had done.Sometimes if it wasn't for bad luck a person wouldn't have no luck at all.So I'm saying be cheerful and when it does come your way think of SMEAT it'll crack you up every time.
Been there, done that. Tough luck, Tony, sorry to hear.
Ok gentlemen, place your bets: what brand do you think it was?
My $5 says Comp Cams.
Sealed Power or Enginetech. If it was Enginetech he got what he paid for.
@@MetalMasterdom Man, I'd hope it wasn't Sealed Power. That name goes back many, many decades as being good stuff.
@@moparedtn I'm just guessing those 2 since they're the most common parts store brands. With Enginetech being the cheapest. I don't really have anything bad to say about either one. In fact I'm pretty sure the lifters I put in my Chevy a few years ago were Enginetech. And they've been running fine ever since.
Not to mention the fact that it's really an installer error that caused the problem. Lifters come prefilled with oil. It would have been pretty obvious it was bad if he'd pushed on it like that before installing it. "It'll pump up"? Really? No. Like I said, it should have already been "pumped up"/full of oil out of the box. Sticky plunger? No. That's not the problem either. It should be solid as a rock when you push on it like that(when it's "pumped up"/full of oil). It's leaking oil BADLY. They will NEVER be collapsed like that otherwise.
I was thinking Comp Cams as well.They're notorious for parts failures.
NAPA..
Thats why uncle tony is everyones uncle hes wrestled with the bear he doesn't want you to have to wrestle the bear but he tells us no matter what it can happen and you gotta take that sexy time with the bear like i champ and learn from it
I bought a 73 duster original 340 motor a 4 speed it was backfiring through carb. Bad lobe.I put a cam dynamics cam a lifters in it.I soak the new lifters in oil before installing a when it cranks i throttle it back a forth for about 10 min a have never lost a lobe or lifter. It was a blazer pulling type cam.it pulled like a big block.disappointing I know but things happen for a reason sometimes.hang in there.
Grind off one lobe on flat tappet and here comes tear down$$$$. Fix that mess and$$$$. After that $$$$. Buy and install hydraulic roller camshaft and lifters at initial build. Save$$$$ and mental trauma.
Funny. I spend my summer here rebuilding my NP 445 for my 76 w200 400 powerwagon.
Lasted 20km and it ate a spacer causing enough slop that it engaged into third gear when I was in second.
I did hear something funny like two minutes earlier but I figured to ignore it.
Looking for another NP445 4 speed.... just sayin
l will have yogi the bear nightmares now
My last cam was .01" oversized on one of the journals. "Reputable company" too. Everyone makes mistakes.
Well if it's got tits or tires it's going to give you trouble. What about guys who used to pump up there lifters in a can of oil with an old push rod? Would that have made a difference? On Chevys we have a priming tool made out of a 3/8 rod or an old distributor. It goes in the end of a 3/8 drill. And we prime the oil pump until we see oil shooting out all of the pushrods and rocker arms. I noticed on the slant six that you prime the oil pump before you install it in the motor. Or is this just a bad part and it was going to screw you one way or the other. There will be better days Tony.
NOOOOOOO!!!!! I cut my trip short ta get back here an start breakin world records!!😁😁😁👍👍👍 I'll be there in the a.m.
I hope dassa Sammy dog will be riding shotgun in bottlerocket in a couple weeks
It ain’t ezy being greasy recon what the metal shavings did to the cam bearings have flat tappet cams always did this shit even in the 1970s
Wondering if you worry about shavings or any thing in the pan my Comp Cams BBC just did the same
I'd rethink the manufacturers you used to trust. I'd also call and complain, I mean two cams in a row.