Less Sketch, More Power!
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- Опубліковано 31 січ 2025
- Garrett's Charger is back. It still has too much cam, not enough converter and terrible gearing, but a few minutes spent working the distributor has made a big improvement in the cars off-the-line performance. We're one step closer to sending this thing down the strip for the first time.
#mopar #dodgecharger
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Oh, good, my handiwork doesn’t suck completely lol.
Thank god I just had that stuff laying around to convert the bowls. They’re actually the bowls off my old Holley that my SportFury had before we put the Edelbrock on...and to go even further, those are the bowls that originally came with that 600 carburetor when I ordered it in the first place when my Poly went in a year ago. That 600 is the one that wouldn’t work on my car for some reason lol. I knew converting it back to dual feed would make the biggest difference in the world for his car.
I’m glad Garrett’s a lot happier in this video than the last one lol. Looking forward to our next get together when I’m not working!
Great work man. Very cool helping him out like you did.
Can’t wait to see you guys go down the track! Have fun!
Nothing sketchy there, Nice work guys keep it up!
nice job man. keep it up. its all Legos in the end
Friends helping friends in the world of hot rodding classic cars. That's what it's all about. Making things go faster & forging friendships along the way. Way to go Austin. Looking forward to watch your progress here!
Good seeing a young man who is interested in learning and respectful of UT's experience. A good kid who obviously was raised well.
most of us Tennessean's are at least where I'm from are parents would have beat are asses if we weren't respectful
Completely agree
There's probably a couple million of us. They are just fortunate enough to have the opportunity
Do they still make LineLok?Can he afford one?
Pray not to denotate and fuck yor engine
Tony, you should call your place "UTG Automotive Tuning Academy". I am not aware of anyone else doing the training that you are doing. When I was younger, I would have gladly paid for the expertise that you are kindly giving away to the next generation for free.
I 100% agree with you
I agree 100% Sam. Tony's giving valuable lessons to the younger generation on hot rodding old school cars. I admire & respect that.
+1! Every young hot rodder needs an Uncle Tony in their life!
If anyone wants to help me out.... Isn't this going to kill the drivability of the car?
Isn't there a way of doing this without welding?
There is a plate you can buy that has multiple settings to do the same thing but Tony is going old school.
Love that engine when it's idling. Sounds of my childhood, song of my people. Nothing quite like a big cam to make it sound interesting. :-)
More of a slow run than idling...
@@jamiebone6886 I was thinking more of the lumpy idle when he was shifting into reverse and rolling back to the starting point, rather than during the "slow run." it didn't sound like he was on the throttle when he shifted into reverse.
Might sound good but cam killed the low end torque "bigly"
I think maybe the idle needs adjustment after the timing adjustment? Sounded a little too high?
Uncle Tony is incredibly generous with his knowledge and time. I don’t know too many men that are so willing to help so many with their rides.
Uncle Kathy works that camera intuitively .
Not everyone can do that !
The entertainment is second only to the education here .
Thanks to all parties involved
This content is great. You covering each end of the spectrum... a high end 426 hemi gtx, to a 360 charger. please keep up the good work!
Tony took that distributor apart like someone had a stopwatch out! 😂
Yeah, he just whips it out. When I took the distributor out of my 261, I took it out like it was and unexploded device. 🤣
That was, between trips down the track...
Stopwatch fast 😉
@@christopherjohnson1348 that’s how you’re supposed to do it
I can hear my buddies and I back in 1979 yelling "mommy's boy burnout" That car is gonna love some gear!!!
Haha if that thing has low 2s in it and ya pep it up to some mid/high 3s it'll feel like 75-100hp.
Sorta similar, but a buddy swapped a 4 speed into a lame smoggy 75 nova, and damned if it wouldn't stick with an older carbed 5.0 mustang till like 70.
Before the swap it didn't have a prayer.
I would love to see this car with around 3:70 gearing.
Honestly, seeing how badly that car was repaired made me feel good about my own sketchy repair history. At least I never tried to duct tape anything under the hood.
Brother I was actually forced to use the duct tape on a radiator hose back in the 90s. That was the most nail-biting I ever did in 200 miles.
Amen to that ive done some dumbass shit in my day but none ever involved duct dape. Floorpans made of bodyfiller is my offering to the blooper reel
I got the worst bondo job in town in my 80' Dart
Ive reconstructed wheel wells with fiber glass and old aluminum window screens... Bondo and undercoated over top haha.
@@DanEBoyd Ahh the good old "cheese grater" tail lights. So you actually fabricated a piece of the painted lens cover out of bondo? Now that's ingenuity!
That cam sounds bad ass!!
It does sound good. Fake it until you make it
Its too much cam its over cammed as they say the heads wont flow enough air for that cam its slowing it down believe it or not a smaller cam w a higjer lobe separation angle would make it faster ask tony
When young I had gears like that on a car with 351C, so frustrating. On the highway nothing was going to beat me, but off the line a kid with a tricycle would take the first 20 feet.
I literally smiled, laughed and nodded my head when the tires spun! Real guys real car, real world, real fun!
As soon as you popped off that reluctor wheel I saw the cut on your hand (not even fazed) I'm the same way, "if I ain't bleedin I ain't workin"...lol
My dad used to say no job is done right till the blood is spilled. Somehow it has always worked that way, he must have been right.
Great to see old timers giving back. So cool. Love this channel
Good new ol Fluxie to the rescue! I hope you remembered to tighten the distributor clamp bolt before he left though. I spun a couple of rod bearings in a 454 by forgetting to do it. The bolt backed off and the distributor climbed the cam gear enough to stop turning the oil pump.
Appreciating the front mounted distributor on my Buick more and more. Thanks for the information Uncle Tony!
Had the exact same sluggish launch on my Mopar last year. Glad I’m not alone. I put 3:73 and a stall. Did nothing to the motor so far and it made a big difference. Heads and cam are next. Oh and a line lock. Keep up the great videos Tony!!
With Mopar distributors, I find I don't often have to limit the advance weight travel. I do remove the heavy limiting spring and leave the long light one. This gives about the same advance curve as the two short, light springs from Mopar Performance. I reinstall the vacuum advance, but I don't hook it up, as with the quicker advance curve, the vacuum advance ends up being more than desired at part throttle driving. Because of the good spark plug position in the small block and the 426 Hemi I usually set 35 degrees total timing, but with the big block's older chamber design and lower spark plug position, I usually set total timing to 38 degrees in the big block Mopars. More timing can compensate for less than ideal spark plug position or less than ideal chamber design, so slightly more timing for the big blocks. More timing will cause the engine to run leaner and often larger carb jets help. Out of the box, a lot of performance carbs are jetted large though. For transmission fluid, try Valvoline Import Multi-Vehicle (ATF) Full Synthetic Automatic Transmission, as it won't burn like non-synthetic fluid. It is one of the few synthetic fluids with the old Dexron III viscosity, as most synthetic fluids now have Dexron VI viscosity, even if they are Dexron III rated. The Valoline Import fluid doesn't say Dexron III, but it is Toytota T-3 rated and that is the same rating. Other synthetic fluids have lighter Dexron VI viscosity, even with Dexron III additives. The two barrel 360 came with an A904 transmission, while the four barrel 360 came with an A727 transmission. The four barrel 360 was the high performance version and came with the smaller, higher stall speed torque converter and flex plate.
Seeing Tony helping this guy out makes a fella smile. wtg
I had a GM G Body with a 2:29 rear, I feel your pain...
A looser converter and a shift kit made a GIANT difference, 50mph 1st to second with a chirp :)
Step by step is what we used to do, can't afford the world all at once!
Who picked that cam :(
Ahh the old smog bog. My brothers 72 caprice with a 400/400 and 2.73 gears would lay rubber all the way thru first which was about 45mph it went from 2nd to 3rd at about 100. Somewhere around 150 or 120mph speedo needle out of the window it started to get a little floaty on that cruiser suspension. Lol that was also pretty sketchy. Lol
Man I forgot how much the styling of this body style resembled the Monte Carlos back in the day. I haven’t seen one of these in the wild for almost 30 years.
Yeah. 78 cordobas even more so. They changed the headlights to under over squares.
My 77 cordoba (the cor-doobie) was a ton of fun! Triple blue, Corinthian leather! 440 and torque thrusts!
This is hot rodding 101, working with what you have and optimizing it without spending a bunch of money. Yes it will come out of the hole harder with more rear gear but let’s tune what we have first. Genius.
Again, awesome job! I remember taking my distributor to the speed shop and having Ed put it on the old "SUN" machine and dialing it in! Ha," dialing in a distributor, " A lost art now days!
I still have mine. ! Old school always.
I wish I had one of those machines today. Back in high school at my Vo-Tech we had one of those machines.
@@andrewbutton5580 Where are the days you had to manually adjust the distributor while driving. Those were the real old times, for real men. No magic mumbo jumbo with automatic advance and counterweights and springs. Just pure piloting skill.
Flash a new curve... no real difference except no spatter rattling around in to distributor, lol
Remember, too much converter with highway gears will really heat up the trans! A big trans cooler is a must with high stall and highway gears. Actually the cooler is a must with high stall speed converters and any gear ratio on the street.
The few auto trans cars I have all got coolers. They are cheap and totally worth it.
This Charger has a stock converter.. it will be fine.
A tight converter like Tony stated means basically stock. A loose converter would have a higher stall speed than what he's working with.
This is a young man on a budget for now easy on him .we all have been there.iam just happy to see the younger generation interested in older cars.🤘
What a beauty Cordoba, used to despise these, but in my older age they have grown on me. Great video Tony love the distributor tutorial.
14:45 The AC clutch bearing is starting to lock up (or the plate clearance it too tight ) and is turning the clutch plate. There is a small chance there is electrical leakage that is partly engaging the clutch. Either way, this needs fixed. Also, make sure the valve on the heater hose is shut off, no use running this in the summer.
I noticed the ac too
I noticed that. Most likely not enough air gap. Not the clutch bearing as it should not turn at all when disengaged.
@@jimmyraythomason1 The Chrysler RV2 compressor ( along with the York / Tecumseh used on Fords of that era ) had the bearing between the pulley and drive plate then the whole assembly is mounted to the compressor shaft. When the bearing locks up the whole assembly will rotate and turn the compressor.
The GM A6 and most any modern round aluminum compressor has the bearing mounted between the pulley and a snout on the front of the compressor and the drive plate mounts on the compressor shaft. If this bearing locks up, it will lock the pulley and burn the belt off.
I had a 2,92 rear end and a 2200rpm stall on the converter made a world of difference
Kudos to him for having the courage to learn something new period, let alone in front of many viewers. Keep up the great work!
🔔👍
That is the first time I have ever seen anybody point out that most guys weld up the wrong end of the slots.
I think that only you and me knew that. LOL.
👍👍👍 THANKS FOR SHARING.😎😎
Garrett I am glad y'all got your car safe. Good job
Great video. ET whittling is so much fun. I wish UT would have done a before and after 1/8 mile with the GTech. Probably would have been a half second or so.
Great video ! I am having a blast watching Garrett have a blast ! Thank you Tony and crew ! I am having FUN !
You got a new subscriber out of me Tony. Great work and advice. I'm 31 and always learning new things about cars. I'm definitely learning a lot. Ty!
That's a *beautiful* bit of hard line!
Austin did good work!
And Garrett, start looking for a station wagon with the tow package at your local pick-a-par. Snag the entire rearend and the trans cooler.
A guy brought me a car in need of tuning with his new motor installed by someone else. It was really sluggish! A 1971 Olds Cutlass with a 350, 9:1 compression, single plane intake, Thermoquad carb, headers and a nice non mandrel bend 2.25 exhaust. The auto trans and converter was stock with 2.79:1 gears in the axle. The cam was picked for to be installed later "better" rear gears. I found many issues with the jetting and ignition advance, that really helped. Here it comes, the next really big issue slowing it down, it had cargo springs so it was sitting level with the trunk loaded with; full size floor jack, 4 full size jack stands, 7 drawer upper tool box filled,spare tire, factory jack, 2 gallons antifreeze, original 2bbl cast iron intake and carb, original iron exhaust manifolds........
That looks way better under the hood.
Nothing like a set of finned valve covers.
Really like the new fuel feed and that carb looks sweet! This thing sounds PERFECT!
I still say he can run them stock 2.08 gears with 15" tall tires golf cart tires or something and be like 5.06's at the track!
Wish I had you around when I was a teen! Made all the same mistakes- big cam, tight converter and tall gears... 🤦🏻♂️ Good to see you helping the younger enthusiasts!
Might tighten the distributor after you get the timing where you want it, preferred before you test it. 👍
Way better low end response! Maybe try a slightly shorter rear tire when you go to the track, the track prep will make it pull down hard.
2:40 rear end ... gonna need those little tires low riders put on their cars..
Can a loose distributor cause the oil pump shaft end to break off of the distributor??
@@Jupitermustangmike i would think it needs more help than a loose distributor to break like that.. . As I've forgotten to tighten down distributor before when setting timing lol.
This video allowed me to better see what you can do and how you do it. Very much appreciate your efforts and video. I had a 64 Corvette, way back in 1967. Nice Holley and added headers. Put a screw in the Secondaries and found we had Very low torque until 3,500 RPM. I had not heard or seen the trick with the mech advance. I bet that would have helped the 327 365 HP engine pull better, i did have a 3.73 gear and Great Muncie Close ratio 2.2. low gear ratio. Your work takes me back to the old days. It was fun and simpler but so much to learn. Great video thank You. Dennis in Virginia
Find a 9-1/4. I have 2 of them from my 79 300's.
Station wagons with the tow package had them too.
I wasnt aware those 79 300's had a 9 1/4. Thought that was a c body rear end. You would think it would be wide in that. Considering my 73 imperial must be wider than these cordobas...
@@ronprice7495 no sir. Factory 9-1/4 b body housing. And i did find one out of a late 70's coronet wagon with a suregrip and the tow package with the Factory Trans cooler and power steering cooler! All sits in my 79' 300.
The 79 300 came with all the cop car heavy duty stuff as part of the 300 package
E58 360
727 non lock up
Dual exhaust
9-1/4 3:21
Bigger torsion bars
11-3/4 front disc with the bigger drums in the back
And in Canada, no cats
@@ronprice7495 and if you like I do have a video of them on my old channel that li can't access anymore (thanks Hotmail)
Called 1979 chrysler 300 t top
UT sure knows a lot of old school tricks to squeeze performance out of engines on a budget. Great job UT 👍
His stuff runs like garbage..still waiting for some actual. numbers
If you only knew who Uncle Tony really is !!!!
@@hotrodray6802 who is really UT?
@@n2vxc I don’t see your videos… Oh wait I’ve mistaken you for a keyboard warrior. “Keep on typing!!!”
that car has a very aggressive cam for a factory stall converter. it needs a higher stall converter, and some deeper gears.
Sweet. Its the little tricks that are so rare to hear about these days. This is even better then a totally locked out distributor atleast it seems to start a little easier.
Single feed carbs are a pain in the butt, i did the same with my Holley 600. The dual feed bowls is the way to go
A good cam for such a beast is the (available on order but not shelf stock anymore) Dual Energy series from Comp Cams. The 265DEH would probably be the one, in a A-body with at least 3.21s, the 275DEH would work. Split pattern torque makers.
I went to trade school with a guy named Justin Bonduraunt that had a blue1977 charger Daytona in the late nineties and early 2000’s he got it featured in a mopar muscle magizine. Good times!🤘🏻I think it had the 383 from the factory? He built a low compression 440 and put a pro charger on it.
Really makes me miss my 1977 cordoba. It was a factory 400c.i. four barrel car. All yellow. Yellow cloth interior. Nothing said seventies like that monster. Had alot of fun with that car.
383's were long gone by 77. They dropped 383's in 72 i think or earlier. And replaced it with the 400. Which was only around till 78. Fun fact is 400's actually have the biggest bore of the mopar v8's. Its just a tiny bigger than a 440. And Cordoba's are the exact same car as this charger. Just little different cosmetically.. Barely. They also made a 300 for 1 year with this body style. I think 79. That would be a nice one to hot rod if you could find one!
@@ronprice7495 ah ok, I’m a learning mopar guy please excuse my ignorance
I bought my 77 cordoba with a barfed 400 and we swapped a 440 from a tradesman van Into it it was almost stock but still fun to drive!
I know my 74 newport with a 2 barrel 400 is still a pretty powerful car. I would imagine with a 4 barrel and a few other mods like dual exhaust it wouldnt be no joke. 74 is the last year you can get away with no cat as well.
Making progress 👍👍 buy or borrow some small diameter tires. I ran some little dirt track tires on a mustang one time, it’ll help compensate for the highway gears. Or air those tires up really tight so it’ll spin a little bit more.
These young dudes are so lucky ! I wish I had an Uncle Tony to teach me the lessons on classic cars. But hey at least I have this Channel 😄 Has helped me a lot with my classic Bronco
"Optimise what you got" a philosophy for life!!
It's a great philosophy. You make small accomplishments all the time instead of just buying your way past difficulty.
I feel like he was trolling us with ol’ fluxie ll.
That was one of the sketchiest things I’ve ever seen. All that was missing was the cowboy hat 🤠
Hey Tony , you can also change his rims in the rear for 14s if he's got 15s , Or if they are bigger, it' will be a little help with your gear ratio . 👍
Bigger tires would make it higher geared
This is actually good advice. If you can even snag some low profile tires to get the final ratio closer to where you want it would be good
@@jacobhoffman5115 That's why he is saying to put smaller ones on.
It's on 14" rims already.
@@ScottKenny1978 I guess he will need some low profile tires to fix that. Or go to the junk yard and get a truck rear gear. Or better yet get a donor car.
Anyone who puts down late 70s mopars needs to hear this beast idle! Sounds like a late 60s super stock kick ass
This channel is great! Greetings from Sweden!!
More swedes!
I hear that American cars are huge in Sweden. ( From the USA, missing my early 80's SAAB 900 . . . )
Yes, more swedes! 1964 Imperial, huge car!
@@bobroberts2371 Yes that's true, someone in a documentary about American cars in Sweden, said about 500 000, and we are about only 11 million people here.
Heja Sverige. Anorher swede here (proud saab 9-5 owner) this channel is awsome. Miss my -66 dart gt
Love the t-s just bought two. With shipping to canada and all (the conversion rate) it was a pretty penny. But I just had to.
Wow what a difference! I'll have to try that on my 440
Its nice to see sum1 that says they know what theyre doin and actually does!!! 👍👍👍👍
Tony. Can you please make a video about the off the shelf MSD Streetfire distributors. Especially focusing on using that little advance limiting plate included . Bought it from Oreillys when the Jegs " blueprint hei" dist i bought initially had a shit coil and made initial tuning a complete nightmare. Also had a chrome plated dist hold down that just kept allowing the dist to walk , never holding a solid position time . Fixed that.
Quick backstory of the engine and application.
1965 283 sbc, .030 over bore, orig 520 power pack heads reworked for modern gas. shaved .003 for trueness, summit k1102 cam set, z28 valve springs , 1966/67 gm "H" c.i intake for 283/327 . Supposedly only made 2 yrs and referred to as the 300 hp intake .R45TS plugs.
Edelbrock avs2 1401 500 cfm .currently at 1 1/2 turns out on idle mix screws . I just took out orange and put the silver pop up springs in it and omg , quite a difference now in the off idle foot stab .
Right now , vac gauge on manifold port im getting a solid 19 hg at idle. Idle is very smooth, Throttle is pretty snappy.
But...
Now, wanting to concentrate on getting the advance end of the timing dialed in and that limit plate has me a bit baffled.
S10 2wd chassis, 1951 chev 3100 body, th350 ,Ford 9 inch 3.25 .
On a 68 302 2V from a wrecked Fairlane that I'd put in my stick 6 64 Fairlane, (8" Ford 3.50 gear non posi) all I did was remove both springs from the distributor and put in the 2 weakest springs from a "curve kit" and it really woke that car up! I didn't weld anything but I played with the timing from the stock 1968 specs. Directions told me to go with the next lightest spring first but I went for the weakest right away & I wonder was there any benefits I might've missed by doing that?
Your channel is kick ass. Just wanted to say that besides the great motor information on all engine but it also helped me have the conference to port my dirt bike engine starting small with my bike 450cc. cut 1 cylinder for a engine from top to bottom and that’s my 4 stroke. I thought financially it would hurt less if I mess up but everything turned out great started small wish I could leave a picture just having someone explaining the what/where and why is awesome thanks for the channel.
Oh goodie goodie goodie! The "scetchy" shirts are in! I'll be watching my mail box.
I had basically the same setup and kept tearing up motor mounts. These types of videos are awesome!
I think this is also a good lesson on the order of modifications. The big cam really sounds great, but isn't usually the first thing that should get done. But, loads of people start with a big cam and a big carb because those are supposed to be great for power. Then with a tight convertor and high gears the car ends up still being slow off the line.
To me a set of gears would have been first. Then start chasing the extra power. Just like with road course stuff you often are better off starting with suspension and brakes before just adding a bunch of power.The convertor can be tough because if you get it loose enough for the stock engine it'll likely be to loose once you add some power.
Love to see the top end with those "turnpike" gears! 👍😎🏁
Oh yeah! She will pull like hell on the freeway!
Yeah. That car would be passing everything on the freeway. That's the place for it
@@campesinoplastic6169 totally!! My 77 Charger with the 400 and mild mods was sooo happy at 80+ on the freeway...!!!
@@wheels-n-tires1846 One of the most overlooked and under-appreciated B-Bodies ever! They were a great luxury car for cheap and the bonus was that the 75-78 police car parts all bolted on, as well as many other performance bolt ons. I do mean BOLT ON. A very comfortable car too.
Nice " butcher" work on that distributor. car definitely leaves better. She ain't never gonna be a 60 footer with those gears and that weight but quite an improvement anyway. Thanks for the lessons Professor Uncle Tony
whether you weld the inside edge or the outside edge of the dist slots the phasing is the same either way.
I had an engine rebuilt in my Chevrolet van. Expensive rebuild, great results.
Rubber gas line to carburetor.
Sprung a leak.
Burned my van to the ground.
Ughh!
Ive been REAL close to that. Have fire extinguishers in all my cars now.
Jeez
AAAH. Another blood sacrifice to the Mopar Gods!!! lol As soon as i heard those tires start to squeel, i knew uncle Tone did his magic. BRAVO!!!
Yes a gear change would definitely help.
Check your brake adjustment to 60/40 or 70/30 so the front brakes are holding more for getting those rear tires a bit looser. Just be very careful on wet roads braking the rear can come around on you if using as daily driver if you have to make a quick stop.
Get yourself a couple of plastic totes (to keep the stuff organized) and take everything except your legal paperwork out of the car, loose change, spare parts, tools, spare anything you might lose 100 lbs or more.
Great improvement and good luck in learning.
Check with Uncle Tony about best tire pressures to run for the heaviness of that car.
I appreciate all your knowledge uncle tone. I'm going to put this tip to use
Damn that Tony modded distributor really helped. Just add 3:90-4:10 gears n a 3000 stall converter for John Force style burnouts .
“He doesn’t have 3.91 gears…he has” amen brother!! I get so tired of the internet race techs that are happy yo state the obvious that if you would just write a check for a 9”, Holley efi, two turbos, nitrous, aluminum heads and a built tranny it would run better.
Yeah, right? That's because there's a bunch of stupid kids here vying for attention. They're not here to learn a damned thing, but they THINK they are "impressing everyone else". You can bet the farm they troll all the hot rodding channels........yet they've never turned a wrench themselves.
Sometimes you just gotta play the hand you were dealt
@@leapyear9460 for now…and upgrade when you can
Bro that Monty would pull a lot harder if you just dropped in a Rolls Royce Meteor engine😏
This is a great type of video, do more like this these days! Some car that has some improvable areas and go through the process
I seen people throw in the towel on engines because they got the "biggest and baddest" parts and the vehicle never would run as expected. Getting too much cam, too much intake, not enough radiator, etc. Sometimes just mild upgrades make a better performing vehicle. People also fail to take into account tire size, gear ratio, and stall speed of the convertor.
Used 30* initial +8* centrifugal on a low compression 440 once, worked great!
Didnt it start hard?
That's pretty stiff initial timing....
@@ronprice7495 Not at all. Camshaft overlap and negative deck pistons.
Looked like an angry dentist working on that distributor. Its seems to have helped it tho.
LOL!!
Man! I’m glad that I gave away my Unilite, and Accell distributors. I’m running a MSD, and weights and springs are a breeze to change. I feel bad for you Christler guys
And the advance stops are easier to change, and pretty much right on
I had a car exactly like that and it was a Triple black with a black top , black leather interior and a super nice gloss black paint, had all the chrome that Dodge would put on the car. It was a 1976, and I took the original drivetrain out and put a 360 and 727 out of a 71/72 Fury 2 police car. Oh my goodness I had a runner that was a great sleeper. I wish I had kept it. Hindsight is awful as we age gracefully.
I love it! I wish I lived near Uncle Tony! I'd love to take my 64 Galaxie to his studio. Is it possible to curb the stock distributor on my 352 FE?
Yup
Get some 90/10 drag shocks for the front and some old worn out shocks for the back, get the shortest and widest tires you can find and put on the rear, shortness is more important than width on lower powered cars. Cheap ways to get some extra performance at the track.
ROLL UP YOUR CIGARETTE!!! LOL GREAT VIDEO UTG!!!👍 HELLO ULTRA KATHY!!!
Lookin' good under the hood there Garrett. Glad that you have fellow car guys to help you out.
Keep it sketchy but not too sketchy.😎
Great videos. Thank you. How did you figure out what to set your timing after the curve adjustment?
Great example Tony! Thanks for sharing. What's the best way to accomplish this with an HEI??
Incredible thank you. One question. What would happen if you welded the other side of the weight travel slot, to an all-in advance of 35 degrees and you give more initial timing at the distributor at idle. This way, you limit the all-in, to 35 degrees but you start with more advance at idle. This is how I do it and it seems to work also. I also discard the vacuum advance. Your comments, please.
Do not despair. I had a camaro with a most excellent headliner and t tops.
My original build was as it goes as what I have set up. Cam and gears almost identical. Long story short I recurved the distributor and got it all dialed in. One night it was about 70°f and I let it loose. With the t-tops off the headliner actually blew out of the car.
Bottom line....7200 RPM in high gear, 2:41 rear gear, automatic transmission, 31" tires. Speedometer broke a long long time ago.
I broke the leaf springs a few times and cracked the pillar on the driver side on the journey to the tune. And a 6'4" fat man dove out of the car during power break burn out.
Ol' gal camaro set off car alarms everywhere I went.
Cheers
Oh and if anyone is wondering. Yes I had installed the cam a few degrees retarded to move the power band into the highest rpm cam intake and exhaust would allow.
We all don't float in the same boat.
Will you do any vids on 2.2? Not for power mods,, but within the group of cars that have no computers, and can fix many things with a screw driver.
Ive owned two K cars, and drove the snot out of them, passed one on to a friend who also drove the piss out of it for two years, before it had to be scrapped, just because of the body rot. I also drove one as a company car, and everyone who had access to it drove it like it was stolen. Those were all carb'd cars.
your vids have inspired me to go back to my years when I owned slants, but also going to look for a K car wagon with a carb'd 2.2
Hope to hear your comments on the early 2.2's
Thanks for the great videos
Uncle Tony. There is a fella on these here tubes, goes by the handle of CT. Now that is a man who needs your help.
Pay attention to the tools UT uses and how he uses them. Yes, a screwdriver is a screwdriver, but using that long one and the position of his operating hand gives more torque and control.
Hey UTG, thanks for this vid. I’m working on my 77 F100 with 351w, twin t3/t4 turbos, low boost of 6lbs. I’m using stock dizzy and gonna try this out since I’m still running 10 BTDC and feel like there’s more room for HP/torque before boost. Mannnn, I wish u we’re here in Texas to take a peek at my setup and to get ur thoughts.
Is that A/C compressor dragging?? When you were timing it it sure looked like the clutch was dragging. A little free HP there.
Great video Uncle Tony! ..and remember!! Seat belts save lives!! Make him buckle up, Kat! Theres ALOT of car wisdom in his head and its up to you to keep it safe!!! 🤣👍🏻
You rock man love your style thanks for sharing all this good stuff
Go to your pick a part & get a half ton rear diff. 3.70s are common with a 5 lug
Oh yeah! That's how we do it here in Michigan!
Garret needs to check the gap on the AC compressor clutch is is spinning a little bit with the AC off. It will cost him a little HP.
Just take it off if it's not being used, those things are really heavy!
@@craighansen7594 he lives in Tennessee, it gets obscenely muggy there.
That car sounds pretty darn good. Once he gets the right rear-end in there I say it will be a nice little street beast.
3800 converter and 355 rear would do nicely. American Overdrive makes an electric shift overdrive that fits in place of the trans tail shaft. They guarantee 1000hp.
Glad to see your channel is growing and working for you