Great video! I've read several books/articles about building arrows. It's so much easier to understand when I watch you actually do it. Plus, your manner of speaking is straight forward. I'll watch your other videos now. I hope you make more.
Been building my own since I was fourteen...fifty nine now. One recommendation...after you put the point on, keep pressure on the point as you're doing but put it on a damp cloth...cools it almost immediately so you don't have to hold it as long. Great video!
G'day from Tasmania, I've been shooting for a few years with a target recurve and used to hunt with a compound, have been thinking of a Longbow for some time, so I finally bought one and have a bunch of new shafts that came from the UK...some sort of English wood 🤔 and about to make wooden arrows for the first time! It is terribly exciting 😁 you have given me some good ideas thank you for the video great job 👍
something we do in our club, cut a few small grooves along the shaft where the nock and point fit, just a little bit past the end, this gives the air somewhere to go and stops pressure build up behind the nock and point and poping off under impact.
Nice video! I've watched it 3 times already and jumped off and bought a longbow. Once my shop is complete (I'm in the process of moving), I think I'll give these a try. Thanks for your work in putting this together!
Just building my first set of wooden arrows and decided to just have a look at a few more videos to see how others do there's. First three I stopped in less than a minute. Then I came to yours and so glad I did. Good video and like the idea of staining them with the yellow as it gives a lovely looking arrow. I will be looking through your other videos for more things I can get tips on. Great job and great looking arrows.
I just had one question. Could you go into a little more detail about the way you stained your arrows? You mention alcohol and cheap clothing dye, and I’ve found information about using Rit dye as a wood stain, but your method clearly works great, so I wondered if you might be willing to provide more detail about that. Thank you.
Daniel Knight I mixed the Rit dye with denatured alcohol in an empty 20oz drink bottle. Full box of Rit in 20oz of alcohol. Shake to mix well and apply with a small saturated rag (old piece of tee shirt). Be sure to wear rubber or plastic gloves so you don't stain you skin. Let dry and re-apply to desired depth of color. As mentioned, the clear sealer brightens the color some so it will look more saturated once the sealer is applied. Test on scraps before doing the real thing as once sealed applying additional stain will not pentrate.
Thanks; I looked up arrow making for information purposes, and this was really useful. And your arrows looked gorgeous (loved that black and yellow colour scheme).
It was a great tip, and I just tie dyed some shirts with indigo last month. A bit dark, but it could have made nice highlites. I have 100 shafts just waiting for me to start, LOL.
Make a bow too! On the one hand it is basically a stick and string, on the other hand it can be very complicated to make your stick the right way and the string strong enough. But satisfaction in your work when you get it right can be exhilarating. I don't have the patience or the materials to make a bow that is good for hunting, so I bought one recently; a 62 inch recurve made of maple and fiberglass with a draw weight of 50 lbs at 30 inches. I could use my target weight compound bow in my back yard with my plywood backstop, but the hunting bow kinda scares me so I'm going to a proper range with it. I'm not confident that my backstop would stop the momentum and mass of the hunting arrows.
Beautiful arrows and great shooting. I have been hand loading and developing wildcats and custom rifles for decades. I want to build my own arrows because they are hard to find for me. I shoot 2117’s from my old compound bow. I want to get a nice recurve and shoot wood arrows, but I have a 33+ inch draw. The OAL of my 2117’s with a hunting broad head is right at 35 inches.
Seems like I saw a note on Wapiti Arrows about long(er) arrow shaft availability. Might check them out... wapitiarcherypoc.com/product/premium-port-orford-cedar-shafts/
An inner-tube squeegee at the top of your dip tank would eliminate the need to let them drip. Just put a layer or two of the rubber across the opening and under the top cap, burn a little hole through the rubber so the blank squeezes through and on withdrawl you'll have a consistent coating that's ready to dry. Thanks for the video.
Thanks for the suggestion. Kind of like a gasket lacquer setup. I've never tried it so maybe on the next batch I'll do a test with it. Not sure how it will work with the water based poly but I won't know unless I give it a try. Thanks for the comment and thanks for stopping buy...
Excellent video young man and a great looking set of arrows - the UK is freezing at the moment and it's a great winter hobby and a good time for building bows or arrows
I've been wondering about using the wipe-on poly from minwax rather than dipping the arrows. Have you tried that or do you know a reason that won't work? I use the wipe-on poly for other wood projects and as it says, you just wipe it on with a rag and let it dry. It seals the wood well so it seems to me it should work and be easier than dipping.
@Heyward Shepherd Your comment is Incorrect, you misunderstood both of the explanations. See time lines 1:50 & 7:18. The nocks ARE installed perpendicular to the grain not inline with the grain as shown here which allows use of the full stiffness of the arrow. www.stickbow.com/FEATURES/ARROWMAKING/alignment.cfm
Putting that little blob of glue on the ends of each of the Fletchings ("tipping") also protects your hand from the potentially sharp ends of the fletch, which can be quite painful if you catch your hand on them. (I'm curious if your "longbow" is an English Longbow or an American Flatbow?) Nice video. Thanks, Rick
Fantastic DYI video. I will now be making my own arrows and some for my two brothers. My only question is what fletching jig are you using? I googled fletching jigs and was overwhelmed. Many seemed way to complicated and/or made of plastic. Yours seems simple to use.
My fletching jigs are "Jo Jan mono fletcher" jigs. I I've had mine for years and yes, you are right, they are simple, quick and easy to use. I just did a Google search and found then on Bass Pro website. You might also try eBay?
Very good video! Im not expert in electric machines but i would try to swap the wires on the grinder so the dust would go down not up. If its possible. I dont know US wires, i think its working in Europe. Correct me if im wrong
With the rits dye, do you mix it with rubbing alchol? And what product do you dip them in? The sealer I used caused my wood arrows to stick in the target. Thanks and I really enjoyed your video. Tom.
Adding a heavier point would make the arrow spine weaker. The shafts were too weak as they were, that is the reason I cut them shorter, to stiffen the spine.
Not really. Self nocks are just more "primitive" and some archery competitions require them in certain longbow categories. They are certainly more effort to make than gluing on a plastic nock :-)
@Ivan Brown The distance for back of fletching to nock is not critical except for the fact futher back is better for guidence. You don't want the fletching way forward. About 3/4" is good. You just need enough clearance for your fingers.
@@Woodenarrows Thank you. One more question please. I have recently got a used 6 flecth jo jan with right helical clamps. I find that the first feather, the cock feather that I fletch, the rear of feather is offset to the left of center from inline with index on nock which makes cock feather not in alignment to true 90° from riser. Therefore all feathers are turned to the left some.( If i need ) to keep the cock feather as close to 90° from riser I can turn the nock on carbon but if I use wood with glue on nocks, I'm stuck the way it sets them. Im thinking that it's off center for both helical clamps, right to the left and left to the right with the center of the feather in line with index. Am I right or am I wrong? Thank you again I love you videos
They are Jo-Jan Mono Fletchers (two of them I screwed down to a board). I've had them for years. Unfortunately they are no longer in production. eBay may be your only bet if you want one...
Sorry, what was the product in the dip tank (about 5 mins onwards)? Some kind of clear varnish. I replayed the bit after the dye step but could find what it actually is? I've restored all the aluminium arrow for my archery club, but want to do a quality job on the wooden ones for the longbow guys too. I've got some fabric dye coming as I think it looks a lot better than the bare wood and way easier to identify for scoring.
It's Minwax Polycrylic sealer. I use the gloss finish as it's easier to clean off the arrows when needed. Here's my video on the DIY dip tank: ua-cam.com/video/yjK-Mw7EK-Q/v-deo.html
@@Woodenarrows Yep, thanks for the prompt response, I found it in that video just before you posted! Thanks for all your effort in first building this, but also capturing it on video. The club are going to get some quality arrows, thanks to you. (Clophill Archery Club UK), clophillac.co.uk/
I've always just used the base of my hand pressing against the high side of the shaft and then checking by rolling on a flat surface. I'm also not that picky :-) However, Rob Green has some very useful videos where he uses an ACE roller straightener to hit the high spots. That method works well and is pretty straightforward, maybe easier to learn. Here's one of his videos... ua-cam.com/video/LF19jShVbsw/v-deo.html
One thing about FLETCHING the arrows? you wish to avoid touching the FEATHER quill with Your hands and also the FLETCHING area on the arrows. Your Hands have oils that may contaminate the feather or the arrow. Maybe a good idea to wear vinyl or POWDER-LESS rubber gloves?????
There are variables involved. Mainly diameter and wood type. U.S. Diameters in inches are 5/16", 11/32" and 23/64". Popular wood types are Sitka Spruce, Port Orford Cedar. Douglas Fir, with Birch, Maple.Ash and Pine also being options. Hard woods are heavier weight that Spruce and Cedar. I use Portord Cedar in 5/15" diameter. At 29" length with fletching and 100 grain points my arrows come to 390 grains (0.89 ounce) in weight.
Here on this page in the RH column, there are articles on the varying arrows, points, fletching and differing bows. But nothing on the crucial aspect. If you don't use this, you are always going to be a second rate archer. You won't know about it, but its use makes you a belated member of the oldest secret society in the world. Can't see it and can't feel it. Have fun!
That only shows on your recommended RH list, not everybodies. You need to give the channel and title name, and or paste (ccp) the url in your post/comment.
Recently I've been buying the wood shafts from WapitiArcheryPOC. Very nice shafts. They also sell feathers and other supplies. You might also check out KustomKingArchery. I've purchased from them for the last 10 years.
@@Woodenarrows ANd forgive me for not going back to watch again but are you pulling that through a rubber squeegee top on the dip tube? I've used spar varnish but want to try a water based finish and get away from the hassle of fumes and clean-up with mineral spirits.
@@charlesmurray1220 No squeegee. I trhin the Polycrylic about 50/50 with water and just let drip dry. No build up or lumps... Here's my original 2009 video on the dip tank. ua-cam.com/video/yjK-Mw7EK-Q/v-deo.html
I use Gloss MINWAX Polycrylic. Here's an old video on the dip tube and dipping process. Product description is at timeline 7:15 ua-cam.com/video/yjK-Mw7EK-Q/v-deo.html
@@Woodenarrows sorry if u hate responding but thank you, i guessed it was a finish of some sort or polyurethane but also thought maybe resin to strengthen. thank you n keep on building i checked site out beautiful.
@@mattconroy3918 I did reply. The finish is Minwax Polycrylic. www.google.com/search?q=minwax+polycrylic+protective+finish&oq=minwax+polycrylic&aqs=chrome.1.69i57j0i512l7.15693j0j4&client=ms-android-google&sourceid=chrome-mobile&ie=UTF-8 I referred to my video in case you wanted more info.
@@Woodenarrows oh yea your reply was quick n precise. I thought maybe i was asking stupidest question n thought this question was at least an eye roller. thanks
He did make them..he'd just bought the arrows first..You'd need a lot of woodworking machinery to cut wood up for shafts..If you were building a house,you wouldn't be exoected to make the bricks first..I guess..'Arrow Building' is more of a precise title..but hey?..It was an encouraging video I thought..good on him..
40@ 29 is 45#,...I don't think so. But I have seen 40# bow's that shoot far better than 45# bow's. And lighter arrows to make the bow faster???? Well I think douglas fir is kind of light,....and white pine is kind of light,... and sassafras is kind of light,....Wild rose bush stem's are kind of light and honeysuckle is kind of light?
I used Spruce shafting for these arrows and the arrow shelf on the longbow used here is not cut to center, thereby requiring a weaker arrow shaft to get around the bows riser(handle). Almost all things in archery are dynamic with no hard and fast rules.....
No nonsense and straight to the point. Love the video!
Great video! I've read several books/articles about building arrows. It's so much easier to understand when I watch you actually do it. Plus, your manner of speaking is straight forward. I'll watch your other videos now. I hope you make more.
Thank you for the wisdom my friend I will pass this along to my children, as it was lost to my father
Been building my own since I was fourteen...fifty nine now. One recommendation...after you put the point on, keep pressure on the point as you're doing but put it on a damp cloth...cools it almost immediately so you don't have to hold it as long. Great video!
Good suggestion. Lately I keep a small spray bottle handy and just give the point a couple sprays of cool water...
G'day from Tasmania, I've been shooting for a few years with a target recurve and used to hunt with a compound, have been thinking of a Longbow for some time, so I finally bought one and have a bunch of new shafts that came from the UK...some sort of English wood 🤔 and about to make wooden arrows for the first time! It is terribly exciting 😁 you have given me some good ideas thank you for the video great job 👍
Great no-nonsense video and a very tight group. Thanks!
Very nice set of arrows, Very new to Fletching and your videos have helped greatly.. Thank you
great tutorial thank you for posting it , I've learnt a lot of tips about arrow making that wasn't mentioned on other sites .
Nice tutorial. Thanks for sharing.
Best construction video. Thank you !
I really enjoyed watching, thank you.
Really good thorough summary! Thanks for taking the time to make and post this vid 👍🏻
something we do in our club, cut a few small grooves along the shaft where the nock and point fit, just a little bit past the end, this gives the air somewhere to go and stops pressure build up behind the nock and point and poping off under impact.
Nice video! I've watched it 3 times already and jumped off and bought a longbow. Once my shop is complete (I'm in the process of moving), I think I'll give these a try. Thanks for your work in putting this together!
Just building my first set of wooden arrows and decided to just have a look at a few more videos to see how others do there's. First three I stopped in less than a minute. Then I came to yours and so glad I did. Good video and like the idea of staining them with the yellow as it gives a lovely looking arrow. I will be looking through your other videos for more things I can get tips on. Great job and great looking arrows.
Dave Salisbury Thank you for you reply, glad you found the video helpful. Hope your arrows turn out great. Thanks for stopping by.
Enjoyed your video, made it look lile a grest past time, and there so nice.
Thanks...good tips to use throughout the vid!
This is the most helpful fletching video I’ve seen to date, and I’ve watched a bunch. Thank you so much.
Daniel Knight Thank you for the comment, I appreciate it...
I just had one question. Could you go into a little more detail about the way you stained your arrows? You mention alcohol and cheap clothing dye, and I’ve found information about using Rit dye as a wood stain, but your method clearly works great, so I wondered if you might be willing to provide more detail about that. Thank you.
Daniel Knight I mixed the Rit dye with denatured alcohol in an empty 20oz drink bottle. Full box of Rit in 20oz of alcohol. Shake to mix well and apply with a small saturated rag (old piece of tee shirt). Be sure to wear rubber or plastic gloves so you don't stain you skin. Let dry and re-apply to desired depth of color. As mentioned, the clear sealer brightens the color some so it will look more saturated once the sealer is applied. Test on scraps before doing the real thing as once sealed applying additional stain will not pentrate.
Thanks; I looked up arrow making for information purposes, and this was really useful. And your arrows looked gorgeous (loved that black and yellow colour scheme).
Thanks, glad I could help and thanks for the comment.
GREAT VID! Thanks for voice over and explaining!
Those turned out amazing . I'm definitely going to use the rit dye on the next set I make . Great tutorial!
It was a great tip, and I just tie dyed some shirts with indigo last month. A bit dark, but it could have made nice highlites. I have 100 shafts just waiting for me to start, LOL.
Nice bunch of arrows Jim. Many thanks
So therapeutic. Beautiful work. Thank you
mark r pa life archer since 1958 im 69 thx so much 4 ur vid lol !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Interesting...makes me want to make some arrows and I don't even own a bow
:-)
Get ya a bow AND make some arrows. Great hobby.
Really enjoyed your video
Make a bow too! On the one hand it is basically a stick and string, on the other hand it can be very complicated to make your stick the right way and the string strong enough. But satisfaction in your work when you get it right can be exhilarating. I don't have the patience or the materials to make a bow that is good for hunting, so I bought one recently; a 62 inch recurve made of maple and fiberglass with a draw weight of 50 lbs at 30 inches. I could use my target weight compound bow in my back yard with my plywood backstop, but the hunting bow kinda scares me so I'm going to a proper range with it. I'm not confident that my backstop would stop the momentum and mass of the hunting arrows.
Thanks for the video! Very nice shot at the end where you are shooting straight toward the camera
Verry nice video Jim, i learned a lot, thank you! Best wishes for 2021, kind regards from the Belgian Ardennes, Yves.
Beautiful arrows and great shooting. I have been hand loading and developing wildcats and custom rifles for decades. I want to build my own arrows because they are hard to find for me. I shoot 2117’s from my old compound bow. I want to get a nice recurve and shoot wood arrows, but I have a 33+ inch draw. The OAL of my 2117’s with a hunting broad head is right at 35 inches.
Seems like I saw a note on Wapiti Arrows about long(er) arrow shaft availability. Might check them out... wapitiarcherypoc.com/product/premium-port-orford-cedar-shafts/
An inner-tube squeegee at the top of your dip tank would eliminate the need to let them drip. Just put a layer or two of the rubber across the opening and under the top cap, burn a little hole through the rubber so the blank squeezes through and on withdrawl you'll have a consistent coating that's ready to dry. Thanks for the video.
Thanks for the suggestion. Kind of like a gasket lacquer setup. I've never tried it so maybe on the next batch I'll do a test with it. Not sure how it will work with the water based poly but I won't know unless I give it a try. Thanks for the comment and thanks for stopping buy...
a great video. thanks for posting.
Hope that tournament goes or went well for you!!!!
Love the sound arrows make as they enter targets. Always sends a thrill for me
P.S. History Question: What would ppl have used, say, 500 or so years ago to finish their arrow shafts? I'm curious and don't know enough.
very nice looking arrows impressive!
Thanks, appreciate the comment and thanks for stopping by...
thank you !! and happy new year from south france !!
Happy New Year Jim, have a great one...
Good video!
Thanks Jim. Have a good one.
Very nice video man tha bow and arrows I'm like
Excellent video young man and a great looking set of arrows - the UK is freezing at the moment and it's a great winter hobby and a good time for building bows or arrows
Thanks for the complement and the comment. Sorry you have to put up with the cold, we are 80 degrees right now, 5:25 pm.:-)
Woodenarrows - Minus 1 and everything white with frost here but it's dry so I'm out early to watch some deer - regards - Dale
Very nice video, thanks!
Great building process with lots of tips. Do you happen to know a way to get a glued nock off of the arrow? Thank you
I just cut them off with a slicing motion using a sharp knife.
Felicitări!
good job,I use lw helical,5" and fletch tite.always give at least 20 mins clamp time.i like making frankenbows. and shooting them.
Great video
Thanks, I appreciate that comment and thanks for stopping by...
I've been wondering about using the wipe-on poly from minwax rather than dipping the arrows. Have you tried that or do you know a reason that won't work? I use the wipe-on poly for other wood projects and as it says, you just wipe it on with a rag and let it dry. It seals the wood well so it seems to me it should work and be easier than dipping.
I learned more in your short video than most others combined. As far as string releases, what is your preference?
I shoot three fingers under the arrow. No mechanical device.
@Heyward Shepherd Your comment is Incorrect, you misunderstood both of the explanations. See time lines 1:50 & 7:18. The nocks ARE installed perpendicular to the grain not inline with the grain as shown here which allows use of the full stiffness of the arrow. www.stickbow.com/FEATURES/ARROWMAKING/alignment.cfm
Putting that little blob of glue on the ends of each of the Fletchings ("tipping") also protects your hand from the potentially sharp ends of the fletch, which can be quite painful if you catch your hand on them.
(I'm curious if your "longbow" is an English Longbow or an American Flatbow?)
Nice video. Thanks,
Rick
Not an English Longbow. I shoot typical American flatbow/longbow
Fantastic DYI video. I will now be making my own arrows and some for my two brothers. My only question is what fletching jig are you using? I googled fletching jigs and was overwhelmed. Many seemed way to complicated and/or made of plastic. Yours seems simple to use.
My fletching jigs are "Jo Jan mono fletcher" jigs. I I've had mine for years and yes, you are right, they are simple, quick and easy to use. I just did a Google search and found then on Bass Pro website. You might also try eBay?
Very good video! Im not expert in electric machines but i would try to swap the wires on the grinder so the dust would go down not up. If its possible. I dont know US wires, i think its working in Europe. Correct me if im wrong
very good man
With the rits dye, do you mix it with rubbing alchol? And what product do you dip them in? The sealer I used caused my wood arrows to stick in the target. Thanks and I really enjoyed your video. Tom.
I use denatured alcohol for the dye mix. You can find it in the paint department. My sealer is Minwax Polycrylic Gloss finish.
THANK YOU. !!!!
You can add a heavier point if you want to keep your arrow length long
Adding a heavier point would make the arrow spine weaker. The shafts were too weak as they were, that is the reason I cut them shorter, to stiffen the spine.
Thanks for showing. Are selfnocks more difficult to shoot than the predominant nocks today?
Not really. Self nocks are just more "primitive" and some archery competitions require them in certain longbow categories. They are certainly more effort to make than gluing on a plastic nock :-)
Woodenarrows alright, thank you!
Please, advice needed, to reference of the measurement from back of feather to back of arrow or back of nock??
Thanks and great video.
@Ivan Brown The distance for back of fletching to nock is not critical except for the fact futher back is better for guidence. You don't want the fletching way forward. About 3/4" is good. You just need enough clearance for your fingers.
@@Woodenarrows
Thank you.
One more question please.
I have recently got a used 6 flecth jo jan with right helical clamps. I find that the first feather, the cock feather that I fletch, the rear of feather is offset to the left of center from inline with index on nock which makes cock feather not in alignment to true 90° from riser. Therefore all feathers are turned to the left some.( If i need ) to keep the cock feather as close to 90° from riser I can turn the nock on carbon but if I use wood with glue on nocks, I'm stuck the way it sets them.
Im thinking that it's off center for both helical clamps, right to the left and left to the right with the center of the feather in line with index. Am I right or am I wrong? Thank you again I love you videos
Hey man. Nice video! What kind of glue is the one you use for the point? Is it simple hot glue?
Is there a link for this fletching jig?
Where'd you get that jig for fetching? It looks very nice
They are Jo-Jan Mono Fletchers (two of them I screwed down to a board). I've had them for years. Unfortunately they are no longer in production. eBay may be your only bet if you want one...
Still got my Jo-Jans and still going strong after 40+ years.
Sorry, what was the product in the dip tank (about 5 mins onwards)? Some kind of clear varnish. I replayed the bit after the dye step but could find what it actually is? I've restored all the aluminium arrow for my archery club, but want to do a quality job on the wooden ones for the longbow guys too. I've got some fabric dye coming as I think it looks a lot better than the bare wood and way easier to identify for scoring.
It's Minwax Polycrylic sealer. I use the gloss finish as it's easier to clean off the arrows when needed. Here's my video on the DIY dip tank: ua-cam.com/video/yjK-Mw7EK-Q/v-deo.html
@@Woodenarrows Yep, thanks for the prompt response, I found it in that video just before you posted! Thanks for all your effort in first building this, but also capturing it on video. The club are going to get some quality arrows, thanks to you. (Clophill Archery Club UK), clophillac.co.uk/
any tips for straightening? i bought some ashwood shafts and cant seem to get them perfectly straight
I've always just used the base of my hand pressing against the high side of the shaft and then checking by rolling on a flat surface. I'm also not that picky :-) However, Rob Green has some very useful videos where he uses an ACE roller straightener to hit the high spots. That method works well and is pretty straightforward, maybe easier to learn. Here's one of his videos... ua-cam.com/video/LF19jShVbsw/v-deo.html
One thing about FLETCHING the arrows? you wish to avoid touching the FEATHER quill with Your hands and also the FLETCHING area on the arrows. Your Hands have oils that may contaminate the feather or the arrow. Maybe a good idea to wear vinyl or POWDER-LESS rubber gloves?????
Izin bertanya Bahan untuk mengkilapkannya apa?
Cairan apa yang berwarna putih?
I thought this was about wooden tipped arrows without any metal or plastic parts
How much does a wooden arrow shaft weight? And what is its width?
There are variables involved. Mainly diameter and wood type. U.S. Diameters in inches are 5/16", 11/32" and 23/64". Popular wood types are Sitka Spruce, Port Orford Cedar. Douglas Fir, with Birch, Maple.Ash and Pine also being options. Hard woods are heavier weight that Spruce and Cedar. I use Portord Cedar in 5/15" diameter. At 29" length with fletching and 100 grain points my arrows come to 390 grains (0.89 ounce) in weight.
Here on this page in the RH column, there are articles on the varying arrows, points, fletching and differing bows. But nothing on the crucial aspect. If you don't use this, you are always going to be a second rate archer.
You won't know about it, but its use makes you a belated member of the oldest secret society in the world.
Can't see it and can't feel it.
Have fun!
That only shows on your recommended RH list, not everybodies. You need to give the channel and title name, and or paste (ccp) the url in your post/comment.
Where do you buy your fletchings
Usually Kustom King Archery. www.kustomkingarchery.com/Feathers/products/72/
Anyone know of a place to get cheap high quality wood arrow shafts?
wapitiarcherypoc.com/
You using 3/8 thickness shafts?
No , as shown at beginning of video, this build was 5/16" shafts.
Where do you buy the wood and feathers?
Recently I've been buying the wood shafts from WapitiArcheryPOC. Very nice shafts. They also sell feathers and other supplies. You might also check out KustomKingArchery. I've purchased from them for the last 10 years.
Woodenarrows thanks for the reply
How many packs of yellow RIT dye you use?
I used one package of dye in that 20oz bottle of denatured alcohol.
@@Woodenarrows ok, mine are coming out way lighter than yours hmm,
@@asherscubaarcherybushcraft2749 Did you catch that I used several applications, 5 I think... and the final sealer will deepen the color also...
@@Woodenarrows well, crap, ok , I used 3 , and I'm using wipe on poly , as of right now until I get a dip tank.
@@asherscubaarcherybushcraft2749 I've got a DIY dip tank video. Might check it out, easy to make. ua-cam.com/video/yjK-Mw7EK-Q/v-deo.html
What are you using for finish varnish?
MinWax Polycrylic gloss
@@Woodenarrows ANd forgive me for not going back to watch again but are you pulling that through a rubber squeegee top on the dip tube? I've used spar varnish but want to try a water based finish and get away from the hassle of fumes and clean-up with mineral spirits.
@@charlesmurray1220 No squeegee. I trhin the Polycrylic about 50/50 with water and just let drip dry. No build up or lumps... Here's my original 2009 video on the dip tank. ua-cam.com/video/yjK-Mw7EK-Q/v-deo.html
where do I get my wood?
what is in the dip tank sir?
I use Gloss MINWAX Polycrylic. Here's an old video on the dip tube and dipping process. Product description is at timeline 7:15 ua-cam.com/video/yjK-Mw7EK-Q/v-deo.html
@@Woodenarrows hey thanks for replying! Really enjoyed the video by the way. Take care!
what kind of wood are these arrows ?
Spruce (German). Light but fragile...
what’s in the dip tank?
Minwax Polycrylic, see my dip tank video ua-cam.com/video/yjK-Mw7EK-Q/v-deo.html
@@Woodenarrows sorry if u hate responding but thank you, i guessed it was a finish of some sort or polyurethane but also thought maybe resin to strengthen.
thank you n keep on building i checked site out beautiful.
@@mattconroy3918 I did reply. The finish is Minwax Polycrylic. www.google.com/search?q=minwax+polycrylic+protective+finish&oq=minwax+polycrylic&aqs=chrome.1.69i57j0i512l7.15693j0j4&client=ms-android-google&sourceid=chrome-mobile&ie=UTF-8
I referred to my video in case you wanted more info.
@@Woodenarrows oh yea your reply was quick n precise. I thought maybe i was asking stupidest question n thought this question was at least an eye roller.
thanks
Start to finish
The shaft is already made.
Sigh...
He did make them..he'd just bought the arrows first..You'd need a lot of woodworking machinery to cut wood up for shafts..If you were building a house,you wouldn't be exoected to make the bricks first..I guess..'Arrow Building' is more of a precise title..but hey?..It was an encouraging video I thought..good on him..
What? No whipping? 😔
Get an egg timer?? Set it for 15 minutes on the fletching deal?????
What's the final dip.
Minwax Polycrylic - ua-cam.com/video/yjK-Mw7EK-Q/v-deo.html
40@ 29 is 45#,...I don't think so.
But I have seen 40# bow's that shoot far better than 45# bow's.
And lighter arrows to make the bow faster????
Well I think douglas fir is kind of light,....and white pine is kind of light,... and sassafras is kind of light,....Wild rose bush stem's are kind of light and honeysuckle is kind of light?
I used Spruce shafting for these arrows and the arrow shelf on the longbow used here is not cut to center, thereby requiring a weaker arrow shaft to get around the bows riser(handle). Almost all things in archery are dynamic with no hard and fast rules.....
@@Woodenarrows www.kustomkingarchery.com/Bearpaw-German-Spruce-Shafting-Hand-Spined/productinfo/4801/3228|3233|3236/
Great video