Studio Bloc Masters 2020 - Finals
Вставка
- Опубліковано 24 тра 2024
- Studio Bloc Master 2020
7-8 March 2020
Studio Bloc Masters is not only a bouldering competition... it is the biggest indoor climbing event which takes part at just one weekend!
Similar to the Rab CWIF there is no isolation during qualification. You just take part and climb next to the best climbers in the world on boulders set by an international team of routesetters.
Qualification is open for every climber who wants to crush his fingers at all in all 80 problems! You better take your favourite handcare...
The winners will not only be awarded with the titel "Studio Bloc Master" but also with some prize money (10.000 € in total)!
Prizes equal for men and women:
1st place - 3.000 € / 2nd place - 1.500 € / 3rd place - 500 €
Original full stream: • Studio Bloc Masters 20...
Studio Block channel: clck.ru/MT4z7
Info: darmstadt.studiobloc.de/gener...
Results: darmstadt.studiobloc.de/event...
Semi-finals: • Studio Bloc Masters 20...
Preview photo: @Tobias Goldzahn
Commentators: Mike Langley & Gaz Parry
Gym: Studio Bloc Darmstadt
Timecodes:
Boulder 1 - 00:00
Boulder 2 - 24:20
Boulder 3 - 50:27
Boulder 4 - 1:18:29
Interviews and Awards - 1:44:09
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#Bouldering #Climbing #Sports - Спорт
Boulder 1 - 03:54
Boulder 2 - 24:20
Boulder 3 - 50:27
Boulder 4 - 1:18:29
Interviews and Awards - 1:44:09
@Mario Simon wtf are u even doing here
@Mario Simon trust issues
"they're not allowed to actively bleed on the wall for obvious reasons [...] The idea of not letting that happen is to stop a slight disadvantage if you create moisture on the hold"
That's not the obvious reason I was thinking of xD
props to the routesetters in this one
Routesetters should maybe not set boulders that force such uhealthy shoulder presses? Feels weird that these super strong climbers all end up with shoulder pain after attempts. I know it's fun for the crowd to watch crazy moves but its bad for the athletes. There is plenty of ways to test their climbing skills. Ability to endure pain and/or willingnes to risk injury shouldn't be one them.
unbeknownst to them, this year is the best year to get an injury ;-)
Really love that they had the guts to set SUCH strong womens boulders.
Vadim on the second boulder was so insane. The power on that guy
. Janja will always be my favorite... 😍😘💪
Janja.... just awesome!
As always
She is so far away ftom any one else
I like how the competitors don't have like fancy uncomfortable sponsored outfits like other sports. Just very casual. Shows how it's more about the sport than anything else.
1000 times more interesting than soccer
I have played soccer and I agree
"Let's just cut away from Janja on the hard move she fell on for W1. Viewers would rather watch the crowd."
Routesetters, though, did beautiful work here.
Absolutely phenomenal camera work
Just got introduced to rock climbing and I’m a big fan of janja!
This year is a big year for climbing. Oooh you did not know then what this year will become. Great comp tho. Crazy shouldermoves
Vadim playing a little cheeky on M3 getting the zone just by touching it from below :)) Props to him, got himself silver! Not that it is not well deserved, of course
Is it just me or was this set better than most of the recent ifscs?
Thats cause it wasnt only jumpy coordination stuff like ifsc... it was actual hard static techy climbing!
Zkzivndidjk
I think also the camera angles / directing contributes to the appreciation
Amazing routesetting!!!
1:45:15 we see you Matt Groom
Very nice boulder problems! Tests all spectrums.
A 1.500 € gap for a zone number of attempts is definitely too much. It would be more interesting for all of these professionnals climbers to at least pay all the finalists, and flatten the prizes gaps a bit.
great comp..great commentary
what an awesome competition! i cannot believe that i wasn't there.
Words fall short for them. The competitors are amazing. Some crazy boulders.
1:11:33 I actually yelled out loud "NOOOOOOOOO"
ME TOO LOL
@ 1:17:43 Have a nice trip. See ya next fall.
A great final :)
Did Janja to a heel click at 47:04 ?!?!
Серьога - Красава. Потвердил где нельзя зацепится там можна удержатса.
0:10-3:53 I learned that rock climbers don't know how to run
They're also jogging on squishy crash pads. It totally throws off your gait.
When the commentators describe Janja's final move as "she levitates to the top".
Nice climbing!!
Other comps camera work can take a lesson from this one..
I know its kinda late to reply to you but as i was one of the guys filming thanks alot :)
10:12 Hey that's Johann from Relais Vertical !
Dude the Women’s second Boulder was BURLY
Does anyone know how what the numbers to the right of the tops and zones? I can't figure it out. Thanks!
Numbers of attempts to tops and zones
At 22:24 is that Niki Beta Routesetting in the right bottom corner?
Keep watching you'll see a lot more of him!
Люшка самая красивая!!!)
볼륨홀더가 대세긴 대세네~ ㅎㅎ
Everytime i watch a block competition and janja is there i know i will just get to love watching her destroy theses climbs
Why are they both going at the same time?
Super interesting setting honestly, except for that triple dyno for the men. M2 stands out in particular - several different betas, beautiful moves, appropriate difficulty. M4 was also very exciting.
The was Sergei did M3 was both epic and awkward. Congrats to him.
idk about the setting, I feel like Sergei was able to "cheat" the lower part crux of M3 due to his height (jumping up instead of doing the difficult flag), ideally you don't want something like this to happen. Especially as a shorter climber, I think its unfortunate when something like this decides a competition. Still a great effort on his side of course, and he was also crushing it on the other boulders, so the win is definitely deserved.
@@martinr113 I feel like the beta he used was not really due to his height since it wasn't static. He basically did a side jump, grabbed the arete and locked on the sloper with his left hand. I'm really not sure that it would be impossible for a short climber to do it after getting information about this beta.
@@maginkub Of course, the move also involved good footwork and timing the sloper lock right, but being tall at least made the side jump relatively less far and high for him, which helps alot in such an involved move. I mean, everyone else who tried a more dynamic solution never looked even close to sticking it, and I find it hard to imagine that this was all due to worse route reading and execution by the others. But then again, I'm far from being a comp climber, and sometimes, you do just get lucky, so what do I know really :)
33:26 If only the had know back then that this year isn't going to be any olympics this year :/ Or how so many people in a climbing gym would soon be a thing we can only dream of xD
the irony of worrying over their performance at the olympics
A lot of mentions of 'going to the olympics'. Shame for them that they've been cancelled. Hope they all stay fit and in good form for when the olympics do go ahead.
I feel like to show control of a hold, especially the top, you should actually have to *hold* it and not just touch it because that's not showing control. Can anyone explain the rules regarding this to me?
Completing a boulder requires matching both hands on the top hold and getting in a position in which they can hold on for at least three seconds. If the climber just slaps the top hold and drops, it isn't counted as a complete boulder.
Sergei Topiskko's M3 was so much NONONONOYES
actually his name is Serhii Topishko/ they have made a mistake
are they allowed to observe the other climbers before they try themselves?
Depends on the competition. But neither in Studio Bloc Masters nor in the world cups it is allowed. Only in some smaller comps nowadays.
topgolf stadium
why do the guys constantly walk right in front of the ladies when they are still working on their problems???
is it fair to say that the nerdiest you are the better you are in climbing?
It helps at least. It is problemsolving, so the better you solve the problem the easier moves you get and the faster you solve teh problem the more time you have compleating it. But then, well you still need to be able to do it. :)
At 1:16:40 he's celebrating that he got the zone.
8:31 That would be an Inside drop knee toe hook.
right before corona.. no olympics unfortunately in 2020
Why does time has to be factor in these competitions? Bouldering shouldn't be about stress
Good English in the interview at the end 😂
37:20 Lucijia Tarkus is short so she is at a disadvantage. Those paths are not built for short people, I noticed that as well with the female climber Ai Mori. Some might say, "Then short people must compensate by being more explosive", but some paths are not meant for explosive moves. Of course, they cannot bring the holds closer from one another, it would make it too easy for most climbers.
“What ever it’s called”
13:43 FBI!! Open up!!
Daan van O 37:38 even better
What's wrong with you?
As a climber getting back into the sport after 10 years, I'm amazed at the format/setting for competitions now. I don't understand them at all. There's an overabundance of dynamic moves.. Where are the nasty crimp routes that can only be done with static prowess? Where are the seemingly footless routes that force absurd upper body strength?
And 4 minutes per route? What's the rush? No one climbs like that do they? Most people take 4 minutes in between each bouldering attempt lol
Maybe im just an old fuck now
Sergiy was the best! Glory to Ukraine!
Anyone here from Iwa climbing
Vadim was celebrating for M3 bcos he got a zone.
beta routsetting acting like a bouncer XD
Show the girls or the boys. Not both at the same time. That's not cool to watch
Im here for mia...
March 2020? Wow this is a super spreader event and they have no idea..... remember those innocent days?
To je školní sraz přisr... ?
Janja Garnbret ~~
Female Alex Megos
Even with COVID-19 they are still out here gathering together? Damn, they are passionate about this comp!
and? way too much hysteria imho. Not that everyone should be at least a bit careful and make defensive decisions about behavior (traveling, large multinational conventions etc), but it is not like life should stop completely for everyone.
Healthy people
@@philipppuchner1115 It should
I think this comp took place before most of the COVID-19 restrictions in Germany came into place. Had this comp took place 2 weeks later it may have been cancelled, or done with no audience like CWIF 2020.
@@philipppuchner1115 Actually that's exactly what it should. Statistically if 5 out of 6 people really take care to follow the rules and the 6th person doesn't.. that destroys all the good the other 5 have done. Dealing with epidemics is a all or nothing deal. Everyone needs to stick together and you gotta be really, REALLY restrictive with no inch given to personal desires or comfort. If everyone did that, we could've gone back to normal life after 1 month of quarantine. The only reason this is dragging out for so long and we have such a massive economic damage and so many lifes lost is because of people holding opinions like yours.
Not wanting to blame or insult you. The numbers aren't easy to understand and exponential functions or statistics even less so. But when it comes to epidemics, there is no such thing as hysteria or "taking it too serious". The more serious you take, the less damage it can do.
The magenta turn conformably bang because scent ultrasonographically unfasten throughout a crabby platinum. efficacious, well-to-do stick
*easy*
The absent vinyl seasonally arrest because hydrant intrinsically request midst a educated margin. dark, grandiose parrot
M and W 1 and for tall Dudes M 3 ... the rest was just rubbish ... yeah hard ... but not even creative ... just hard ... all in all quite a boring set.
Looks like parkour, way too much dynos for my taste
Wow. a bunch of quitters with time still left. I guess if they're really climbing that they would let go and drop. I definitely wouldn't want any those quitters be my climbing buddy. They would drop you whenever they feel like it.
Anyone who talks like this DEFINITELY hasn't climbed anything past V5 🤣