Major props to the routesetters for this excellent final, both the women’s and men’s routes presented the challenge they’re supposed to with a good balance of powerful yet technical climbing. An amazing podium battle and well-deserved golds on both sides as well. Stefano with that crazy compression save on the volume and still powering through to a new high point. And Eliska of course, what a smooth climb through the bottom section and giving it everything she had on the crimps. I’m sure she’ll remember this victory for a long time to come. As much as I miss the Olympians and can’t wait to see them back, it was nice to see the talent of the other climbers shine through today.
on Stefano's instagram you will see him practice moves exactly like that slip where he is gripping his hangbox only with his elbows and forearms (using shoulders and pecs muscles). So that's amazing ha ha it paid off. Also I believe there is footage of him slipping and saving himself on either La Dura Dura or Bibliographie. Stefano is 100% a climbing legend and one of the greatest current climbers!
@@TristanCleveland right the thought occurred to me right after posting lol whoops. Could be Perfecto Mundo. In any case, some very difficult climb. Might go through anx find it to make the edit...
@@blarfroer8066 After who? Ondra and Megos? Both Ghisolfi and Schubert have done 9b+ outdoors, and Schubert is the much more accomplished comp climber between the two. Honestly Schubert is disgustingly good in comps and might be the best most consistent lead comp climber of all 4.
i quite liked sebastian halenke as a commentator (: adding quite abit of personal anecdotes about the athletes he's climbed with, opinions and technical knowledge, all without sounding self-indulgent. more more more!
I agree, so happy for her! Poor Lucka though, she’s been so strong in qualis/semis in the last couple of comps but finals just haven’t been going well for her. Hopefully she’ll be able to medal in the remaining lead world cups for this year.
So good to see Sean on fire this season. I watched him climb on the open circuit and just crushed every time he came into my gym. Amazing performances from everyone in Briancon!
Molly was so pleasant to listen to - kinda like as if she and Matt were old buddies, watching this final while having a casual chat over a coffee... err, tea! :)
Commentary was good, and it can be even better if you look at the language you're using - all the men you're talking about how much they would like to win, and the women it's how happy they are to be there and how smiley/calm/focused they appear. The women also want to win, and I would think the men are also happy to be there!
Awesome competition and commentary. I'm new to the sport and I learned so much more from watching this from the appallingly bad Olympic coverage in the US (and apparently also in the UK). This was really fun and inspiring. Thanks!
Natalia now has 2 gold, 3 silver, and 2 bronze in bouldering and lead in just this season alone. Better than most climbers achieve in a lifetime. Tragic she’s not representing the US in the Olympics.
@@gabriellagibson2629 As long she maintains her form to be better than the other female US athletes she will have a solid shot at qualifying. I don’t believe Natalia qualified for the combined format comps in both Hachioji and Toulouse, probably due to poor speed climbing and being just an average boulderer/lead climber at the time.
she wasn’t super strong during the 2019 season, so she wasn’t one of the favorites to qualify. she only made one semifinal throughout the season. I don’t think she even qualified for Toulouse. But after this season, she is definitely a favorite for 2024!
Great to see Eliska win. It’s interesting however that a maybe a reasonably basic positioning error likely made the difference for Natalia being second. Maybe she underestimated how bad that last crimp was or was just really pumped and thus just “going for it”. However just looking at it you can see how much more easy Eliska made the move by shifting across so her centre of gravity is under the crimp and holding herself in position with left foot against the volume. In contrast Natalia is much further to the right and would have had to swap feet to move across.
Climbing is, at its heart, play. Some forms of training do not feel like training. How people used to train in the 70s and 80s, just bouldering. That’s enough to get into decent shape. Of course they have to train systematically these days too. But when they actually climb, it’s fun.
German TV nominates a "goal of the month" in football, we should have a "climbing move of the month". And for July, it's Stefano's save. Just, how? Big congrats to Eliska, you earned it. And Matt, please put a little effort into the athletes' names. Her name is Ryu Nakagawa, not Rye-yoo Naguagua. That's honestly disrespectful.
@@climbingzorro9046 you can literally listen to the proper pronounciation on Google. Having an accent is fine, but completely switching sounds is not. Plus, the only sound in her name that doesn't exist in English is the Japanese r. Do your research before you embarrass yourself.
@@blarfroer8066 I think Matt Groom is dyslexic, but I agree that it was disrespectful to pronounce Ryu's name so wrong. He should have put more effort into finding out how to pronounce her name . . .
@@oldi6btm6t9d4 hi, I did check with her coaches before the comp. But I’ll of course speak to then again before the next live stream. I do put a lot of effort into the names, checking with the athletes and coaches before each event, and phonetically writing then down. However, it is something I have to work at and I’m sure sometimes, in the heat of the moment I get it wrong. I appreciate you all watching. I love this sport and helping represent climbing is something I treasure. What a finals!
Why was Lucka Rakovec's score 26 instead of 27+? She should have been in the tie at 27+ and moved ahead of Ashima on countback, if I'm not mistaken, but her final score was lower and she finished in 6th place instead
The 27th hold was the undercling on the the left side of the volume that you can see Ashima using at 1:32:09. Lucka never used that hold, instead going directly for the next one. She was given a + though, so her final score was 26+
@@mrmoorash Most notably, Sean Bailey and everyone who podium'd at Chamonix or Braincon. Don't get me wrong, these climbers could still make finals under normal circumstances, but this is not the quality of climbing we saw in 2019.
@@martinc1622 on my opinion, Sean, Dmitriy and others who appeared to be on the podium are at least on the top 10-15 competition climbers list, which including missing athletes as well. Alberto is a rising star, Sean significantly improved as a lead climber since 2019 and he could easily compete with all other missing top athletes. Needless to say Stephano one of the best climbers in the world, and Sean with others proved their high level competing against Stephano, which could be sort of a benchmark. So no, not a word that you said is legit or makes any sense, in my opinion.
@@mrmoorash I agree Stefano is deserving of a podium as a top 5 lead climber in the world. Being #15 shouldn't get podiums. Seems like you're new to IFSC cups, you're in for a treat when the big dogs come back.
Lol why are there always comments like this. Every height has its advantages and disadvantages, and some parts of a route will be easier/harder based on an athlete’s specific body type. Climbers have to find the beta that works best for their size and strengths. Sean fell because he was pumped and his right hand popped off the hold, not because the move was impossible to span. If you want to say he only lost here because of his height, you would have to say he only won in Villars because he was able to expend less energy by conveniently fitting into the box on the headwall that Megos struggled to stay in due to his height.
@@alexchurch7642 Sean has almost always been the shortest male competitor and knows he has to be dynamic, yet because he pinches the volume and scummed his right foot for most of the move he greatly slowed his movement and restricted his range. Despite this, he was still able to post with fingertips. Not in the least impossible. Harder? Probably, but doubt Sean would use that as an excuse.
Never thought I'd live to see the day when Ashima finally decides to ditch those ugly shorts that she would turn up in, in the past. God, those were an eye sore... Glad that's over.
Mens
1. Fedir Samoilov - 13:30
2. Alberto Gines Lopez - 20:05
3. Luka Potocar - 24:10
4. Sascha Lehmann - 28:25
5. Martin Stranik - 36:05
6. Dmitrii Fakirianov - 40:55
7. Sean Bailey - 48:25
8. Stefano Ghisolfi - 55:15
Womens
1. Ryu Nakagawa - 1:12:45
2. Lana Skusek - 1:17:55
3. Aleksandra Totkova - 1:22:30
4. Ashima Shiraishi - 1:28:00
5. Vita Lukan - 1:35:00
6. Eliska Adamovska - 1:40:38
7. Lucka Rakovec - 1:47:15
8. Natalia Grossman - 1:52:10
thank you, this is so helpful
hush hush, to the top with you!
Legend!
You are doing the God's work.
When Matt pronounced Ryu Nakagawa “Raiu Knackawaga”, I died a little bit inside. XD
Lovely final!! I was really touched by Eliska Adamovska. Might be the first time I don't skip a podium ceremony. And her climbing was epic!
Major props to the routesetters for this excellent final, both the women’s and men’s routes presented the challenge they’re supposed to with a good balance of powerful yet technical climbing.
An amazing podium battle and well-deserved golds on both sides as well. Stefano with that crazy compression save on the volume and still powering through to a new high point. And Eliska of course, what a smooth climb through the bottom section and giving it everything she had on the crimps. I’m sure she’ll remember this victory for a long time to come. As much as I miss the Olympians and can’t wait to see them back, it was nice to see the talent of the other climbers shine through today.
The routes were excellent.
on Stefano's instagram you will see him practice moves exactly like that slip where he is gripping his hangbox only with his elbows and forearms (using shoulders and pecs muscles). So that's amazing ha ha it paid off.
Also I believe there is footage of him slipping and saving himself on either La Dura Dura or Bibliographie. Stefano is 100% a climbing legend and one of the greatest current climbers!
Stefano hasn't sent La Dura Dura. Perfecto Mundo?
@@TristanCleveland right the thought occurred to me right after posting lol whoops. Could be Perfecto Mundo. In any case, some very difficult climb. Might go through anx find it to make the edit...
Yep. The box hug. I thought of that when he saved it. Great recovery!
For lead climbing, I'd put Stefano as number 3 in the world. It's a shame he didn't make it to the Olympics. This combined format sucks.
@@blarfroer8066 After who? Ondra and Megos? Both Ghisolfi and Schubert have done 9b+ outdoors, and Schubert is the much more accomplished comp climber between the two. Honestly Schubert is disgustingly good in comps and might be the best most consistent lead comp climber of all 4.
i quite liked sebastian halenke as a commentator (: adding quite abit of personal anecdotes about the athletes he's climbed with, opinions and technical knowledge, all without sounding self-indulgent. more more more!
I wont say more tho😅
They often do a very good job with the co commentators, I always enjoy hearing a new athletes perspective
I agree. He could have a career co-commentating just a little wordy in his explanations but I think it's more of a language thing. I dunno.
He's been on several times and always has interesting commentary imo
@@WonderWhatHappened he said a lot of things the way he would in German. That's why he made some mistakes and some unnecessarily long phrases.
Best finals in ages. Every attempt was nail-biting. What a lovely change from "normal", quite a different experience.
Sebastian is a terrific commentator! We always are excited when we hear his voice at the start of the comp.
Molly Thompson-Smith is such a delight to listen to on commentary. Her and Alanna Yip are so friendly and knowledgeable and positive!
This was one of the most exciting and gripping finals I've yet seen! Whew!
no pun intended
Climbing starts at 13:12
Matt is quickly becoming the voice of climbing, having the competitors in the commentators box is great insight
Finally Vita got her first world cup podium! I love her climbing.
I agree, so happy for her! Poor Lucka though, she’s been so strong in qualis/semis in the last couple of comps but finals just haven’t been going well for her. Hopefully she’ll be able to medal in the remaining lead world cups for this year.
Sebastian and Molly are both great guest commentators, I'd like to hear more from them :)
So good to see Sean on fire this season. I watched him climb on the open circuit and just crushed every time he came into my gym. Amazing performances from everyone in Briancon!
Fakirianov's struggle was truly a joy to watch!
what do you mean?
I just got into climbing this is so cool
I'm so glad you like the sport! Always excited to hear about new people getting into it!
Welcome to our sport!
One of the best and most friendly places to be! Welcome!
Yes, welcome. You will not regret it
@@zekesmith2482 so far it’s amazing my favorite sport yet
it's the middle of the night in San Francisco and I've been watching for HOURS!!! Total addict!!! Love these climbers!!
Molly was so pleasant to listen to - kinda like as if she and Matt were old buddies, watching this final while having a casual chat over a coffee... err, tea! :)
So glad molly is commentating for the olympics, she is great! (Although definitely would rather see her on the wall!)
such a rollercoaster of a final!
Adamovska 🥰
🎉❤️🙌🔥😭❤️🎉
Commentary was good, and it can be even better if you look at the language you're using - all the men you're talking about how much they would like to win, and the women it's how happy they are to be there and how smiley/calm/focused they appear. The women also want to win, and I would think the men are also happy to be there!
What a beast Stefano, incredible strenght
Awesome competition and commentary. I'm new to the sport and I learned so much more from watching this from the appallingly bad Olympic coverage in the US (and apparently also in the UK). This was really fun and inspiring. Thanks!
Very entertaining climb show and great commentators! Thanks
Thank you for uploading this for free
Wow so happy for Eliška, so deserved, she climbed superbly!!
Very awesome comp! Especially the men's route... A+
The 3D boulder problem in the middle overhang section is so good.
Grande Stefano!!
Дима, вот так подарок! Молодец! Гордимся!
16 names, Matt. That's all you have to learn. Nakawagwa indeed. Excellent commentary otherwise. So happy for Eliska!
I so much like the "city" intros on every single of the finals. good job @ifsc
Word: Beta
UK: Beeter
US: Bayduh
FR: bétah
Great comp thanks
Sean Bailey Rocks!
It is just my personal opinion.
The yellow and purple combination is very retro.
Bravo Stefano gli hai messo tutti in riga
Natalia now has 2 gold, 3 silver, and 2 bronze in bouldering and lead in just this season alone. Better than most climbers achieve in a lifetime. Tragic she’s not representing the US in the Olympics.
Yeah, it's a shame that that we don't get to see what would have happened.
I'm sure she'll qualify for 2024 though, how close behind Brooke & Kyra was she for qualifying?
@@gabriellagibson2629 As long she maintains her form to be better than the other female US athletes she will have a solid shot at qualifying. I don’t believe Natalia qualified for the combined format comps in both Hachioji and Toulouse, probably due to poor speed climbing and being just an average boulderer/lead climber at the time.
Soon. Next one is just around the corner, and she won't need to learn Speed for that one.
she wasn’t super strong during the 2019 season, so she wasn’t one of the favorites to qualify. she only made one semifinal throughout the season. I don’t think she even qualified for Toulouse. But after this season, she is definitely a favorite for 2024!
Grande Stefano!
Great to see Eliska win. It’s interesting however that a maybe a reasonably basic positioning error likely made the difference for Natalia being second. Maybe she underestimated how bad that last crimp was or was just really pumped and thus just “going for it”. However just looking at it you can see how much more easy Eliska made the move by shifting across so her centre of gravity is under the crimp and holding herself in position with left foot against the volume. In contrast Natalia is much further to the right and would have had to swap feet to move across.
Also I think Eliska managed a very effective knee bar test on the route that could have given her just that edge!
Bravo Stefanoooo!!! :)
1:48:42 - That is a beautiful shot with the bit of color in the sky
Congrats to Stefano!
I was more nervous just watching the women climb than ashima was in her whole entire climb. Hahahahah
Oh yay. Comments are back. I love going to the comments to learn more about the sport/climbers.
how do these world cups work? there are like 3-4 sessions, you can go to any of these if you don't feel tired or what?
Eliška je super!
Anyone know where janja is? Is she taking a break before the olympics?
Excellent sport
How can we rewatch Olympic climbing in the US?
Молодцы!!!
Any timestamps?
What better than to be a Czech climber with last name of ADAM-O-vska ???
Matt Groom is excellent on commentary. He really should have been asked to commentate on the Olympic coverage for the beeb 👍
Was there no boulder competition? It looks like we haven't gotten boulder transmissions for 2 cups or so.
Its lead season
Forza Stefano !! Sei super !!!
If you put it on 2x playback, it's speed climbing
why do they always fail to cover the top of the climb sufficiently from the rain?
It would be amazing if you timestamped these videos :)
If you look closely at 59:05, you can see Ghisolfi secreting some spider silk from his left hand.
8
8
8
8
8
8
8
8
Stefano, what a fkin beast!
Why do the commentators say these elite athletes who train endlessless and make so many sacrifices are just there for the experience and the fun?
As crazy as it sounds, some of them are. Some just enjoy climbing a lot. Many have jobs and school outside of climbing.
Climbing is, at its heart, play.
Some forms of training do not feel like training. How people used to train in the 70s and 80s, just bouldering. That’s enough to get into decent shape.
Of course they have to train systematically these days too. But when they actually climb, it’s fun.
Because they're terrible indeed. Comps are not about fun, it's about winning, which indeed is fun then.
Shame that Sean Bailey isn’t in the Olympics unfortunately his comeback to form happened too late!
he's very technical
German TV nominates a "goal of the month" in football, we should have a "climbing move of the month". And for July, it's Stefano's save. Just, how?
Big congrats to Eliska, you earned it.
And Matt, please put a little effort into the athletes' names. Her name is Ryu Nakagawa, not Rye-yoo Naguagua. That's honestly disrespectful.
Would love to listen your audio file with your GOOD pronunciation ! 🤣
@@climbingzorro9046 you can literally listen to the proper pronounciation on Google. Having an accent is fine, but completely switching sounds is not. Plus, the only sound in her name that doesn't exist in English is the Japanese r. Do your research before you embarrass yourself.
@@blarfroer8066 I think Matt Groom is dyslexic, but I agree that it was disrespectful to pronounce Ryu's name so wrong. He should have put more effort into finding out how to pronounce her name . . .
@@oldi6btm6t9d4 hi, I did check with her coaches before the comp. But I’ll of course speak to then again before the next live stream. I do put a lot of effort into the names, checking with the athletes and coaches before each event, and phonetically writing then down. However, it is something I have to work at and I’m sure sometimes, in the heat of the moment I get it wrong. I appreciate you all watching. I love this sport and helping represent climbing is something I treasure. What a finals!
@@mattgroom5179 I really respect your willingness to take feedback. I know you'll be a great commentator for many years to come!
Can they stop giving Aleksandra Totkova a leprechaun costumes?
Little shrek yeeting her way up the wall
So many ads on here now- makes it almost unwatchable.
there were only 2 or three and skippable?
Nakagawa Ryu not looking too muscular. How does she even do this?
Why was Lucka Rakovec's score 26 instead of 27+? She should have been in the tie at 27+ and moved ahead of Ashima on countback, if I'm not mistaken, but her final score was lower and she finished in 6th place instead
The 27th hold was the undercling on the the left side of the volume that you can see Ashima using at 1:32:09.
Lucka never used that hold, instead going directly for the next one. She was given a + though, so her final score was 26+
53:02 why didn't they say anything about Sean using no holds to keep himself on the wall!
his feet were still on unlike stefano
13:35 13:35 13:35 13:35 13:35 13:35 13:35 13:35 13:35 13:35 13:35 13:35 13:35 13:35 13:35
Who is commentating with Matt?
Halenke
Sebastian Halenke and Molly Thompson-Smith
i feel like the belayers give them too much slack they let them fall almost to the ground it seems so scary
They know what they're doing
Too bad the route setters ruined the mens comp
Weird people getting podiums this year with the best climbers out for the olympics and covid etc.
Who do you call weird?
@@mrmoorash Most notably, Sean Bailey and everyone who podium'd at Chamonix or Braincon. Don't get me wrong, these climbers could still make finals under normal circumstances, but this is not the quality of climbing we saw in 2019.
@@martinc1622 on my opinion, Sean, Dmitriy and others who appeared to be on the podium are at least on the top 10-15 competition climbers list, which including missing athletes as well. Alberto is a rising star, Sean significantly improved as a lead climber since 2019 and he could easily compete with all other missing top athletes. Needless to say Stephano one of the best climbers in the world, and Sean with others proved their high level competing against Stephano, which could be sort of a benchmark. So no, not a word that you said is legit or makes any sense, in my opinion.
@@mrmoorash I agree Stefano is deserving of a podium as a top 5 lead climber in the world. Being #15 shouldn't get podiums. Seems like you're new to IFSC cups, you're in for a treat when the big dogs come back.
There was no way Bailey could’ve won, the two moves above where he fell at are max span. I don’t even think he can do those moves. Bad route setting.
Lol why are there always comments like this. Every height has its advantages and disadvantages, and some parts of a route will be easier/harder based on an athlete’s specific body type. Climbers have to find the beta that works best for their size and strengths. Sean fell because he was pumped and his right hand popped off the hold, not because the move was impossible to span.
If you want to say he only lost here because of his height, you would have to say he only won in Villars because he was able to expend less energy by conveniently fitting into the box on the headwall that Megos struggled to stay in due to his height.
Nice try Sean! Get outta here you already got two golds
Max span moves are certainly doable, but they are also certainly harder than if they weren't max span.
@@Laura147HLY and impossible if they are unreachable
@@alexchurch7642 Sean has almost always been the shortest male competitor and knows he has to be dynamic, yet because he pinches the volume and scummed his right foot for most of the move he greatly slowed his movement and restricted his range. Despite this, he was still able to post with fingertips.
Not in the least impossible. Harder? Probably, but doubt Sean would use that as an excuse.
Matt Groom seems a bit fake sometimes
Never thought I'd live to see the day when Ashima finally decides to ditch those ugly shorts that she would turn up in, in the past. God, those were an eye sore... Glad that's over.