This guy defiantly makes it a lot easier than what it is, a true example of mastering there trade well done mate I’ve just done my bungalow and it’s messy buisnuess still pulling bit of adhesive out my hair now 😂😂
It sure is a messy one! I’ve been doing it years and still have to pull it out if my hair… and beard 😂 hope it all went well in the bungalow, and thanks for watching Ash
Great content. I heard a trick for those sockets where you take the facia off, then rub a pencil around the rim of the backbox, then push the plaster board onto the backbox where it's going to be and the pencil transfers onto the back of the plaster board. Then all you have to do is cut it out :)
Yes!!! Thats the the method I use when the faces are off! Use an off cut of board and chalk up then a k box then place it, give it a good bang in the right place 😅 and like you say, its marked on the back of the board. Its a much more accurate way of doing it too 👌🏼 Thanks for watching mate, and glad you enjoyed it! Ash
Great video. Ive never seen this done. I picked up some great tips when measuring and cutting the boards and always wondered how much adhesive dot and dab spacing was needed. Thanks for sharing :)
Glad it helped mate. If your tiling over plasterboard I’d recommend a skimmed finish on moisture resistant boards (green colour) ideally you’d be best off tiling onto hardy backer boards, a cement based boards. However these can not be skimmed on. Ash
Wait, what?! AshOutdoors is a plasterer?! How did I not know this? 🤔🤣. Great video mate, doing a bit more plastering at work recently and this was really helpful, cheers 🙌🏻
Great video, mate. Will definitely be using some of the techniques you've explained here in a forthcoming bathroom project. Quick question: do you need to put PVA on blocks if you are dotting and dabbing onto blockwork instead of bricks? Cheers.
Hi mate! Thank you!! If they are new blocks you won’t need to. If they’ve previously had plaster on them and then stripped back I would then. It’s just to remove the dust really so that the adhesive has something to key into Hope this helps and good luck with the bathroom project Ash
Thanks mate! You’ll be fine, just work in sections. So long as the wall doesn’t run out of level too much you should be ok! Best of luck and thank you for watching Ash
Great work. I'm refurbing a 1970s house and it uses that old lard and plaster so as you can imagine just crumbles by looking at it. I've cut sections out back to brick but the brickwork is very uneven so the board doesn't fit flush. My first thought was to sand the brick down with a grinder but I think that's not a great idea 😆. Should I just pack out the low spots, then the use a thin board on top or is there a better way.
Mmm I’m trying to work out what you mean? You’ve taken squares out of the wall and trying to dab bits of board on its place? If so and like you mentioned the board didn’t fit, probably best off putting some wet plaster in there before skimming it (a backing coat plaster) Hope this helps Ash
@@AshThePlasterer I was hoping to put plasterboard in the hole, and then plaster over the top, but the brickwork is uneven so cannot get plaster to sit level. The plasterboard protrudes the cavity. I cannot get it flush.
Great tutorial thanks! So once I have done this and I call in a plasterer, would they be happy with it in this condition to start their work? Or would I need to seal any gaps, for instance between the top of the plasterboard and the ceiling?
Great video. Would it be a good idea to install a moisture barrier like a sheet of plastic or something and then install boards. Keeps mold out? In Canada we have brick walls then wooden framing and then boards are nailed on.
Hi mate, yeah that is a possibility on the external walls. But couldn’t dot and dab onto that so it would be the same method that you’d do with a timber frame fixed to the wall
Great Vid mate but can I please ask this ; In my kitchen (I live in a mid terraced house and have a close between me and my good neighbour) so left hand wall is Brick but it is only single brick, so What type of gyprock should I be using on a bare brick wall which is also an out side wall, cheers Ash ?
Is the brick bare or painted? If it’s similar to the wall in this video then the same process will be fine. If the bricks are painted it would be best practice to remove the paint to dab too. The background needs to be solid. If you’re wanting to sound proof this isn’t the best option. Ash
thanks was really helpful. i have old falt with very uneven surface would it be use to try and skim it to make it even as possible then use dot & dab method? thanks.
I’m no pro but can you explain why you would do this instead of plastering (or similar) the walls. It looks like a fairly straightforward job for a plasterer?
It’s personal preference, the customer wanted boards. In general it’s quicker and dries faster for a quick turn around. Less labour intensive too so cheaper all round. Also from a plasterers point of view, I prefer skimming on boards rather than a backing plaster Hope this helps Ash
Thanks for the socket measurement trick. How come no insulation behind the boards? How do you do insulated boards too? I'm still learning! Would like too see window reveals done aswell. Cheers m8.
The house has cavity wall insulation, also this was an internal wall so no need, unless the customer requests it. Insulation boards are stuck the same way as this, they need to be stored really flat though as they can bend and it’s near on impossible to straighten them, they’re also very expensive! A few others have also asked about window reveals, may well get a video sorted for that soon Hope this helps mate Ash
Thanks one last question. I've got a old internal lath and plaster stud wall... Removed all the lath and plaster... Can I use insulation roll and then then board it, or just board..? Worried about it sweating. Thanks
@@Hew.Jarsol yes, board one side, insulate it, then board the other side. If it’s an internal wall you won’t need to worry about moisture Hope this helps
I did this at home I put that much board adhesive on the back of the boards is was like a solid wall when you tapped the boards afterwards, but I gues it'll be a while before it falls of 😆
Very good - Except your PVA dilution is still a bit strong for letting the bricks breath (possible condensation build-up) ... 10 - 1 still does the job you were looking for 🤠
Thanks mate, ohhh i don’t think I’ve ever used a 10-1 with pva before 😀 I didn’t completely seal it so im sure it fine. Roller was a masonry one so would have been an un even coat. Legend for watching all my vids mate, thank you 🙏🏼
Hi mate, it was such a diluted mix that by the time you’d cut the boards and got set up it would be good to go. The bricks and mortar were extremely dry too so not long at all. I’d say as little as 10 minutes Hope this helps Ash
@@craigwillz77 it won’t get tacky if the solution is diluted this much. It will be dry to touch. It’s basically just to keep the dust and loose material at bay so it adheres to the wall
Yes mate, it’s such a watered down solution that it drys fast anyway. It’s really to remove the dust from the bricks so the adhesive adheres to the wall Ash
Yes mate, although make sure the pebbles are all solid and sound, if not, take it back to the brick underneath 👌🏼
5 місяців тому+1
I have always wondered the reason for dot and dabbing plasterboard for exterior or brick walls. Would it not just be easier and more durable to plaster it. I can understand with interior stud drywalls but why on bricks or breeze blocks. Why not plaster it straight because the plasterboards still need skim of plaster before sealing and paining don't they?
Hi mate. It’s probably more preferable these days as it’s much quicker and cheaper. I could dot and dab and skim this size room in a day if I wanted to. If you were wet plastering in sand and cement it would need to set overnight before skimming and much more labour heavy. Also drying time before painting. Skimmed plasterboards can be painted up to a week quicker than floated walls. But I agree regarding the durability, not as solid as a floated wall. All depends on what the customer wants really
5 місяців тому+1
Thanks for your explanation mate. So I take it you can't plaster using multifinish straight to bricks and breeze blocks without wet plastering with sand and cement first? Also why do some people build frame on brick wall and then nail the boards rather than dot and dab when this does the same job with less work and materials?
No, multifinish is only designed to be a few millimetres thick, it would badly crack if you were to use it straight on the blocks. Its would also cost a fortune 😅 I’m guessing people who build a frame on the wall with wood aren’t confident to get a flat job with dot and dab, again personal preferencec really. You’re welcome mate, hope it helps Ash
SBR would be better than PVA on this wall. Also no dots added for level? And not enough adhesive between each dab to form complete seal behind the board. Not a bad effort though👍🏻
Hello mate, thanks for watching and commenting. I guess it’s personal preference with pva and sbr. In my opinion sbr would seal the brickwork too muc much not leaving enough key for the adhesive. Also I did explain in the video about it not needing solid dabs (as you would on site to seal for air testing) this is plenty for refurb work… those boards aren’t going anywhere 😅 Not sure what you mean by no level dots? I’ve not heard of that before? I always just use my level to tap it level… do you mean where you stick a couple of squares on the wall 1st to get a level, let that set and then stick to those?? Appreciate your input mate Ash
He means what you are doing is just dabbing dots are used to keep the boards level and stop you tapping too hard and leaving hollows in the boards@@AshThePlasterer
Sure you have cross joints on big walls over 9ft .. I never seen it as a problem.. America does nothing but cross joints... there is no rule to it... big ceilings be the same...
Hi Ian, Like I said in the video, the walls were over 2.4m and also I can only get these in my van 😅 was just this room to dab out so didn’t really justify a delivery Thanks for watching mate Ash
To be fair mate, when someone is looking for this on the internet i recon 90% of the time the search term will be “dot and dabbing” all builders I know when asking me to price ask me to “dot and dab” it’s just what it’s known as these days. If you search just “dabbing” on UA-cam you’ll be presented with people doing a bong of weed or some sort of teenage dance trend… that’s not really what this channel is about 😅👍🏼 but thanks for your input
Thanks joe! Thats a great idea, probably one of the trickier jobs. Have a few other videos lined up so will put that on the list! Thanks for watching Ash
This guy defiantly makes it a lot easier than what it is, a true example of mastering there trade well done mate I’ve just done my bungalow and it’s messy buisnuess still pulling bit of adhesive out my hair now 😂😂
It sure is a messy one! I’ve been doing it years and still have to pull it out if my hair… and beard 😂 hope it all went well in the bungalow, and thanks for watching
Ash
@@AshThePlasterer haha brillant 🙌😂
Nice job m8
Like the rubbing of the two plaster boards. Nice tip
Good luck with channel
Thank you mate, much appreciated! Yeah, handy little trick that, saves a bit if time here and there
Thanks for watching
Ash
What a great tutorial. I have my daughter's garage to do which is brick wall, i now feel confident after watching this thank you.
Hi Richard!! Glad you found it useful and best of luck with the garage
Ash
Thanks for taking the time to make this tutorial. Your help is greatly appreciated 😁👍
You’re welcome mate, and thank you for watching
Ash
This is a brilliant video. I've had an under stairs cupboard I've been putting off for so long and this makes me feel like I can give it a go.
Thanks mate, really appreciate it 🙌🏻 good luck with the cupboard 🤞🏼
Thanks for posting this sir - helps me massivley as just about to do my garage and needed some clear guidance
You’re welcome mate, hope the garage goes well!
Thanks you for watching
Ash
Precise. Great video. 👍
Thanks Steve! Much appreciated
Ash
Good content ash. Great help for anyone learning the trade 👍🏼
Thank you mate! Appreciate the watch and comment! Have a good evening
Ash
Hi Ash A good simple and to the point video mate
Cheers Stuart! Thanks for watching
Ash
Great vid bud 👍💪🏼
Thank you mate! 🙌🏻
At last somebody who puts their boards on correctly ...horizontal and staggered brick slip joints.. well done 👍
Thanks Harry!! Have a good weekend mate
Ash
Masterclass. Logical, clear, concise, meticulous. Just what I need for the walls in my cellar.
Thanks mate, and I hope it helped you with your project. Best of luck in the cellar
Ash
Hope you are using a tanking system before dabbing boards 🤔
This is not dotting and dabbing. This is just dabbing.
Great content. I heard a trick for those sockets where you take the facia off, then rub a pencil around the rim of the backbox, then push the plaster board onto the backbox where it's going to be and the pencil transfers onto the back of the plaster board. Then all you have to do is cut it out :)
Yes!!! Thats the the method I use when the faces are off! Use an off cut of board and chalk up then a k box then place it, give it a good bang in the right place 😅 and like you say, its marked on the back of the board. Its a much more accurate way of doing it too 👌🏼
Thanks for watching mate, and glad you enjoyed it!
Ash
@@AshThePlastererCan you do a video on that too?
Nice!
Thanks for sharing your knowledge and skills. You're a legend 👏
Thank you mate, and you’re welcome 😎
Fantastic video!
Thanks Andy! Much appreciated mate. Have a good evening
Ash
Great video. Ive never seen this done. I picked up some great tips when measuring and cutting the boards and always wondered how much adhesive dot and dab spacing was needed. Thanks for sharing :)
Thanks mate. Glad you picked up some tip! And thanks for watching
Ash
This is amazing I looove to watch you plastering!! 😍 Will you come and do my living room pls haha xx
Book me in!! 😁
You are so skilled! @@AshThePlasterer
Top top man probably saved me a ton of money
Thanks mate! Hope it went well 🤞🏼
Ash
Thank you so much for the information, is it ok to dot and dap and tile on the plaster board ?
It is, I think tilers prefer it skimmed though and probably better for water resistance. The boards aren’t very durable when wet
Hope this helps
Ash
Glad I found this. Was getting nervous about doing son's bathroom. What plaster board do you recommend to tile on in shower cubicle.
Glad it helped mate. If your tiling over plasterboard I’d recommend a skimmed finish on moisture resistant boards (green colour) ideally you’d be best off tiling onto hardy backer boards, a cement based boards. However these can not be skimmed on.
Ash
you made it look so easy, thank you!
Thank you. Plenty of practice 😅
Ash!! Last time I watched a video you were in a hammock
Ahhh haha lol, my secret is out… I’m a closet swinger 😂😂 how did you find my plastering channel??
Thanks for the video. Can you use dilute SBR instead of PVA?
Thanks mate. I’d personally stick to pva in this instance, sbr is better used neat imo
Thanks for watching mate,
Ash
Top video mate👍🏻
Thank you mate, glad you enjoyed it! 👌🏼
Great work that👍
Cheers mate
Good video. Well explained..thankyou
Thank you mate. Glad you enjoyed
Ash
Wait, what?! AshOutdoors is a plasterer?! How did I not know this? 🤔🤣. Great video mate, doing a bit more plastering at work recently and this was really helpful, cheers 🙌🏻
Ahhh haaa my secret is out! You found me lol! Yes, im a simple old spread mate! Thanks for watching the video
Ash
Great video, mate. Will definitely be using some of the techniques you've explained here in a forthcoming bathroom project. Quick question: do you need to put PVA on blocks if you are dotting and dabbing onto blockwork instead of bricks? Cheers.
Hi mate! Thank you!!
If they are new blocks you won’t need to. If they’ve previously had plaster on them and then stripped back I would then. It’s just to remove the dust really so that the adhesive has something to key into
Hope this helps and good luck with the bathroom project
Ash
Great video I’m in Aussie and have a scillion roof lounge brick 8mx4m wall to do, might be a bit of a challenge with the height, cheers 👍
Thanks mate! You’ll be fine, just work in sections. So long as the wall doesn’t run out of level too much you should be ok! Best of luck and thank you for watching
Ash
Legend, thanks mate 🙌🏻
Explained very well. Thanks
Great work. I'm refurbing a 1970s house and it uses that old lard and plaster so as you can imagine just crumbles by looking at it. I've cut sections out back to brick but the brickwork is very uneven so the board doesn't fit flush. My first thought was to sand the brick down with a grinder but I think that's not a great idea 😆. Should I just pack out the low spots, then the use a thin board on top or is there a better way.
Mmm I’m trying to work out what you mean? You’ve taken squares out of the wall and trying to dab bits of board on its place? If so and like you mentioned the board didn’t fit, probably best off putting some wet plaster in there before skimming it (a backing coat plaster)
Hope this helps
Ash
@@AshThePlasterer I was hoping to put plasterboard in the hole, and then plaster over the top, but the brickwork is uneven so cannot get plaster to sit level. The plasterboard protrudes the cavity. I cannot get it flush.
great stuff cool video
Thank you mate! Glad you enjoyed it, and thanks for watching
Ash
Great tutorial thanks! So once I have done this and I call in a plasterer, would they be happy with it in this condition to start their work? Or would I need to seal any gaps, for instance between the top of the plasterboard and the ceiling?
Hi mate! Yeah, get it to this stage and the plasterer will be loving it! Glad this helped and thanks for watching
Ash
Great video. Would it be a good idea to install a moisture barrier like a sheet of plastic or something and then install boards. Keeps mold out? In Canada we have brick walls then wooden framing and then boards are nailed on.
Hi mate, yeah that is a possibility on the external walls. But couldn’t dot and dab onto that so it would be the same method that you’d do with a timber frame fixed to the wall
nice tutorial, cheers
Thanks Kevin, much appreciated mate!
Ash
Great explanation tanx for the upload, what nails did you use to hold the board against the wall?
Thank you 🙏🏼 I used 40mm clout nails to pin the boards up 👌🏼 hope this helps, and thank you for watching
Ash
Master love it
Thank you 🙏🏼💪🏼
Brilliant
Thank you sir 🫡
I’m a spread myself mate ! I’m gonna start doing this on my channel I think! Good luck with it anyway! Gave you a like and subbed! 👊
Thank you mate! And thanks for watching!
Ash
@@AshThePlasterer 👊
Great Vid mate but can I please ask this ; In my kitchen (I live in a mid terraced house and have a close between me and my good neighbour) so left hand wall is Brick but it is only single brick, so What type of gyprock should I be using on a bare brick wall which is also an out side wall, cheers Ash ?
Is the brick bare or painted? If it’s similar to the wall in this video then the same process will be fine. If the bricks are painted it would be best practice to remove the paint to dab too. The background needs to be solid. If you’re wanting to sound proof this isn’t the best option.
Ash
@@AshThePlasterer Yes, bare brick. Thx Ash.
thanks was really helpful. i have old falt with very uneven surface would it be use to try and skim it to make it even as possible then use dot & dab method? thanks.
I’d just dot and dab it mate. Wouldn’t be worth filling anything out in my opinion. Just use bigger/smaller dabs where needed.
Hope this helps 👍🏼
thanks for the video
You’re welcome, hope you enjoyed
Ash
Good informative video 👍
Thanks Gaz! Hope it helped! Have a good weekend
Ash
Thank u
You’re welcome 💪🏼
Hello Ash,renovating house at the minute, builder wants to use this system, walls are rough,is this system skimmed after fitting plasterboard
Hi! Yes, I skimmed these boards afterwards. Hope this helps
Ash
What timeframe do you have to work with your mortar/glue before it begins to set?
Depends on the weather and product. Usually get about hour and a half to two hours work time 👍🏼
I’m no pro but can you explain why you would do this instead of plastering (or similar) the walls. It looks like a fairly straightforward job for a plasterer?
It’s personal preference, the customer wanted boards. In general it’s quicker and dries faster for a quick turn around. Less labour intensive too so cheaper all round. Also from a plasterers point of view, I prefer skimming on boards rather than a backing plaster
Hope this helps
Ash
Thanks for the socket measurement trick. How come no insulation behind the boards? How do you do insulated boards too? I'm still learning!
Would like too see window reveals done aswell. Cheers m8.
The house has cavity wall insulation, also this was an internal wall so no need, unless the customer requests it. Insulation boards are stuck the same way as this, they need to be stored really flat though as they can bend and it’s near on impossible to straighten them, they’re also very expensive!
A few others have also asked about window reveals, may well get a video sorted for that soon
Hope this helps mate
Ash
Thanks one last question. I've got a old internal lath and plaster stud wall... Removed all the lath and plaster... Can I use insulation roll and then then board it, or just board..? Worried about it sweating.
Thanks
@@Hew.Jarsol yes, board one side, insulate it, then board the other side. If it’s an internal wall you won’t need to worry about moisture
Hope this helps
I did this at home I put that much board adhesive on the back of the boards is was like a solid wall when you tapped the boards afterwards, but I gues it'll be a while before it falls of 😆
That’s good mate! Nice and easy to fix to also! 👌🏼
Ash
Very good - Except your PVA dilution is still a bit strong for letting the bricks breath (possible condensation build-up) ... 10 - 1 still does the job you were looking for 🤠
Thanks mate, ohhh i don’t think I’ve ever used a 10-1 with pva before 😀 I didn’t completely seal it so im sure it fine. Roller was a masonry one so would have been an un even coat.
Legend for watching all my vids mate, thank you 🙏🏼
Plasterboard or sand cement? Is this for speed over sand and cement ?
Personal preference for the customer. Also I prefer the light weight of boarding and skimming. Drys faster for them to paint too
How long after sealing the wall with pva would u then apply the adhesive for the boards ?
Hi mate, it was such a diluted mix that by the time you’d cut the boards and got set up it would be good to go. The bricks and mortar were extremely dry too so not long at all. I’d say as little as 10 minutes
Hope this helps
Ash
@@AshThePlasterer does the Pva need to be dry before hand or still like tacky ?
@@craigwillz77 it won’t get tacky if the solution is diluted this much. It will be dry to touch. It’s basically just to keep the dust and loose material at bay so it adheres to the wall
@@AshThePlasterer thanks mate appreciate the replies..deffo a follow here 🙌🏻
Would you use skrim tape where the boads meet?
Yes, definitely 👍🏼😊
Thanks bro 🎉@@AshThePlasterer
Hi Ash, do you let that PVA dry?
Yes mate, it’s such a watered down solution that it drys fast anyway. It’s really to remove the dust from the bricks so the adhesive adheres to the wall
Ash
@@AshThePlasterer ok cheers
What about concrete walls with Peebles. Is this the same procedure
Yes mate, although make sure the pebbles are all solid and sound, if not, take it back to the brick underneath 👌🏼
I have always wondered the reason for dot and dabbing plasterboard for exterior or brick walls. Would it not just be easier and more durable to plaster it. I can understand with interior stud drywalls but why on bricks or breeze blocks. Why not plaster it straight because the plasterboards still need skim of plaster before sealing and paining don't they?
Hi mate. It’s probably more preferable these days as it’s much quicker and cheaper. I could dot and dab and skim this size room in a day if I wanted to. If you were wet plastering in sand and cement it would need to set overnight before skimming and much more labour heavy.
Also drying time before painting. Skimmed plasterboards can be painted up to a week quicker than floated walls. But I agree regarding the durability, not as solid as a floated wall. All depends on what the customer wants really
Thanks for your explanation mate. So I take it you can't plaster using multifinish straight to bricks and breeze blocks without wet plastering with sand and cement first? Also why do some people build frame on brick wall and then nail the boards rather than dot and dab when this does the same job with less work and materials?
No, multifinish is only designed to be a few millimetres thick, it would badly crack if you were to use it straight on the blocks. Its would also cost a fortune 😅 I’m guessing people who build a frame on the wall with wood aren’t confident to get a flat job with dot and dab, again personal preferencec really.
You’re welcome mate, hope it helps
Ash
I'm just about to attempt to convert my garage into a laundry room for her 😅 so here I am
Oh good luck mate! I’m sure you’ll smash it if you haven’t already 💪🏼
SBR would be better than PVA on this wall. Also no dots added for level? And not enough adhesive between each dab to form complete seal behind the board. Not a bad effort though👍🏻
Hello mate, thanks for watching and commenting. I guess it’s personal preference with pva and sbr. In my opinion sbr would seal the brickwork too muc much not leaving enough key for the adhesive. Also I did explain in the video about it not needing solid dabs (as you would on site to seal for air testing) this is plenty for refurb work… those boards aren’t going anywhere 😅
Not sure what you mean by no level dots? I’ve not heard of that before? I always just use my level to tap it level… do you mean where you stick a couple of squares on the wall 1st to get a level, let that set and then stick to those??
Appreciate your input mate
Ash
He means what you are doing is just dabbing dots are used to keep the boards level and stop you tapping too hard and leaving hollows in the boards@@AshThePlasterer
You don’t stagger your joints?
Not dot and dab mate, would if tacking and also if wall was over 3/4m long. This wall was as wide as it was tall 😅
Cross joint oh dear oh dear
Fine on a small wall like that mate, different story for ceilings with joists moving 👍🏼
Thanks for watching Brett
Ash
A little knowledge is dangerous
Sure you have cross joints on big walls over 9ft .. I never seen it as a problem.. America does nothing but cross joints... there is no rule to it... big ceilings be the same...
Why are you using 6x3 boards 🤔
Hi Ian,
Like I said in the video, the walls were over 2.4m and also I can only get these in my van 😅 was just this room to dab out so didn’t really justify a delivery
Thanks for watching mate
Ash
Good Job. You just forgot too check margin on door frame
Thank you mate! 🙌🏻
It's easy to stick a wall with flat boards and no pipes. Don't try this with bent boards. Should of staggered the long straight joint.
No one likes a bendy board
Not enough dab
Plenty for this refurb. Customer wanted it as tight as possible, hence why the dabs are small. Agreed on sit or new build I’d need more 👍🏼
You're just "Dabbing". So you can't call it "Dot & Dab" because you haven't done the "Dot" part.
So what are all the lumps of plaster applied to the walls then ? 😂
To be fair mate, when someone is looking for this on the internet i recon 90% of the time the search term will be “dot and dabbing” all builders I know when asking me to price ask me to “dot and dab” it’s just what it’s known as these days. If you search just “dabbing” on UA-cam you’ll be presented with people doing a bong of weed or some sort of teenage dance trend… that’s not really what this channel is about 😅👍🏼 but thanks for your input
Over the years dot and dab lost its actual meaning. The dot process takes far to long so now its just dab not dot and dab
Yeah true, the names just stuck though hasn’t it. Dabbing doesn’t have the same ring to it for me 😅 thanks for watching pete
Hello mate , what is the dot process, please ?
Thanks
@jaycfc6955 go to ,on the trowel ,youtube ,he's got one explaining in detail
Thats not dotting and dabbing. That's just dabbing.
Ok 👍🏼
Should be illegal to make songs 2 minutes long. 5 minimum or you dont get paid
🫳🏼🎤
Wellcome to the hamster 🛞. Very Good video, if you can, in the next vid show the public how stick and square window reveals, 🖖
Thanks joe! Thats a great idea, probably one of the trickier jobs. Have a few other videos lined up so will put that on the list!
Thanks for watching
Ash