The socket marking tip is pure gold👍 Another bonus to using polyurethane foam for bonding plasterboard is there is no cold bridge spots as there sometimes are with conventional dry wall adhesive. Foam has great insulation qualities
But I was thinking, in 2023 don't they require at least 244 mm of insulation to give you a decent EPC compliance? I have the plasterboard and all, but I am thinking about sandwiching some kingspan in between, will the foam hold to both wall insulation and plasterboard or do I need to screw it in on-top? I didn't want to build a timber frame.
Nice video mate . Your nice and humble not like a lot of tradesmen who do these videos,who seem very cocky and arrogant . But I will stick to board adhesive thanks.
LOVE LOVE LOVE your channel. It helps me to tackle other jobs I have only a little experience with saving me so much money. I love how you explain the procedures without blinding us with science like some others. Plus I love your accent too. Your product placements make me laugh but are useful as if you like the tool/product that's good enough for me.
Great video 👌🏽 Just recently started using foam myself I can’t fault it so far, cleaner, less strain on the body ! Also easier trick I find for the back boxes is to use off cut of plasterboard to scribe around them so leaves a chalk imprint on the back of the board when you tap it !
Sparky here. It was very nice to see you have shown that you isolated and locked off the sockets. Very good video. Will sub to you just for that for that bit alone.
The insulation improvement will be enormous!. A still air gap coupled with the polyurethane foam will be giving a resistance value close to 25mm foam backed plasterboard. It would be interesting to do a controlled test to verify the U value.
That's not how it works, the R value of plasterboard is low and putting some foam in it wont give you an even insulation so you will get cold spots. The best results are if you batten the wall and then put PIR at least 50mm in between, tape the joints and then plasterboard on top with skim or tape and joint.
I like the bit where he puts the X in the box to make sure he remembers which bit is the waste material lol Good video, this stuff being used does prove the old continuous bead of board adhesive along the top for fire break is complete BS
Nice video and just a tip at 2:03 draw with a pen on the wall on the right side of the board to mark its position and then foam on the wall after moisting it within the penline, then on with the board, lesser foam accidents
Very impressive. Don't like dot dab as allows moisture potential condensation and mould. Supposed to apply bead all round edges to stop this, as you showed with foam, but rarely done. Easier by far with foam. Have fixed skirting with foam and very handy when needed to take it off later for furniture. Breadknife.
Great tip. You could use two screws mid bottom and mid top as anchor points to grab the plaster board and then just patch the small holes to save you getting foam all over your hands.
Nice one. Your videos are always very informative. I’ve used the foam before. I found you don’t have much time to work with it. Need to get it plumb quickly. I was putting insulated plasterboard onto old walls ( plastered and painted ) so this may have reduced my time significantly. Overall though, it’s been done a couple of years now and no issues.
Thank you for your clear video, I can use this on my rsj where the builders used dot and dab and timber which then failed as the timber took all the moisture out! Got a more competent builder to re finish the big structural stuff but leaves me to plaster board the rest. I’ve done the framed bits so dot and dab is next!
Why did they dot & dab on timber? I always use screws. Good luck with your boarding and let me know how you get on. Thanks for watching and please check out my other videos and subscribe to help my channel grow 👍🏼
@@spendtimesavemoneydiy you miss understand, screwed on all the framed bits bow it’s time to dot and dab the rest! I do have a steel rsj to fire board so this stuff will work perfectly on that!
I like the idea but one question.....how many sheets will one can of foam do and how many bags of adhesive would it take to do the same number? In other words what's the cost comparison?
I have tried both but I prefer dot and dab in long term as the plaster hardens and prevents plasterboard not to warp. Foam is soft and can distort the joints.
I've never used foam to dot and dab but I'm on a job now where I've got no time or adhesive, just watched this after a quick search, using the exact same foam and it won't even stick to the substrate. I'll stick to drywall adhesive. Always thought it was a bad idea tbh. I'm a fully qualified plasterer as we before anyone chrips up
The walls need to be quite flat/straight to use foam. I've struggled with 1920's walls where they can be up 25mm out. In those days great dollops of plaster sorted everything out. If using on aircrete blocks you can drive long plasterboard screws straight in, to pull it all level/plumb..or hold it with a straight edge for 10 mins+!
I've used it on really bad walls. It is difficult and I used a lot of foam. A good tip is if you have a little movement in the board after it's cured them I drill a 10mm hole and fill with foam and it firms up great 👍🏼
I have used a similar product to line a steel shed with styrofoam and osb. Very pleased with it. Just wondering in a domestic situation how long would it hold plasterboard if a fire broke out. Maybe a few metal fixings would be good.
@@livingoffgridinscotland thank you, I,m about to fireproof board (and insulate) a garage to hold my office, solar inverters and batteries. Fire was a big thing on my mind, I will screw plenty fixings.
A tip for getting dried foam off your hands. Rub vaseline into your hands thoroughly before bed time and it will literally drop off the following morning.
Just done 2 rooms using dot and dab method which turned out great. I used a similar product to this to board around the windows and was very surprised how much easier, quicker and tidier it was. Have my porch to do next and I’m tempted to go down this route.
Push it back to the wall with a straight edge, any belly in area the foam will squash really easy and the board will then belly in so use that straight edge. A couple of straight long timbers held vertical against it with a couple of timber prop holding them in place for initial cure period, say 5- 10 mins. Only put some extra fixings in after fully cured or it will also pull the board in.
Thanks for this, exactly what I needed. Need to plasterboard my garage. Never done any plasterboarding so this was really helpful. What kind of screws will you use if you needed to tighten the board to the wall. I'm guessing you will need wall plugs which will be hard to put in once the boards up. How do you get around pipes that are in the wall?
I notice the plasterboard will be sitting a fair way off the brick wall due to conduit, socket etc. Is there any problems aligning the plasterboards with this method or do you just push and eyeball it?
I didn't have much trouble aligning the boards but you could always throw in a few screws if you're having trouble. Thanks for watching and please consider subscribing 👍🏼
Great video! Very informative and gives me the confidence to get on and re board my son’s room! One question, I see that the socket on the wall has been chased in slightly but it looks like another hasn’t. Is there a ‘best practice for how much a back box should protrude from the wall prior to boarding in this manner? Also, what’s the finished gap between the brick/block and the board? Many thanks!
The reason I make videos is exactly what you said. To give others the information and confidence to tackle jobs themselves and to pass on some useful tips too. So I'm glad you are giving it a go. Some of my backboxes were deeper than others so that's why some are chased in. A 35mm box will probably end up flush to the board without chasing it in but it will depend on how much foam is used and how plumb the walls are. Thanks for watching and don't forget to like and subscribe to help my channel grow 👍🏼
Dab it mate, expanding foams OK for sticking small bits of board on but not full walls, the foam will deteriorate over time and crumble like dust. I would definitely put some screws in to give a mechanical fix to the wall
Do you have to put a vcl if it’s a cavity wall. Thinking of using insulated plasterboard. Also dya think you could use this method on ceilings . Cheers
I have a very uneven wall i need to do this on (plastering on bottom but not on top of wall, also a chimney i removed). would dot & dab be better for such a particular case? because then I can just use bigger dabs in order to level things out. that seems difficult with this adhesive?
I cant help but wonder how the expanding foam doesn't push the board away from the wall. I guess id have to try it and see for myself what happens. One place i absolutely detest dot and dab is in kitchens. It can be a nightmare fixing back wall units. Sometimes, the old fashioned or traditional building methods are much better.
You'd maybe consider the original dot and dab method for a wall with wall units to be fitted and make sure the wall is well dab'd along the fixing line for the wall units. It's very solid once it cures and would be plenty to stop the bounce depending on the thickness. The wall behind is pretty important too and you have to make sure you use longer screws to fix the brackets.
I’ve got a basement room on our extension which is slabbed floor and walls seemed damp before all outside was rendered. You think this system you use would be ok now walls have dried out??
Love this so enjoyable to watch you put that up so easily ! Makes me think I could do it myself!! Just had the loft boarded. We want to plasterboard the walls !!! X well done Rob.. you make it look sooh easy !!! X
As a chippy I use to do the tiles on walls with silicon , a lot quicker and no mess ‘ just put it on four corners and centre , last for ever ‘ especially tiles on tiles N
It works great with insulated plasterboard and the extra rigidity of the insulation makes it easier to install than regular plasterboard. Thanks for watching 👍🏼
Place a full piece of cabinet grade plywood 3/4" as a backup. Wedge with some 2x4 lumber. To hold till dry. Because it can push away from wall as it dries
I notice your videos are becoming more professional with the quality buddy. Great to see! And great video. How that stuff can stick to ceramics and rockwool I've no idea! Are you doing video on plastering these boards? Would be awesome to see that.
Thank you. I am terrible at making videos but I have tried my best to improve the quality. I invested in a new wireless microphone and I try to plan them a bit better. In January I will be getting a new phone so hopefully the image quality should improve. I film it all on an iPhone xr at the moment. I have already done a plastering video so I didn't do another one for this project. 👍🏼
I'm not gonna lie. I had dab and dot. IT is just messy and winded process prior of skimming, which in itself requires a good amount of energy on the trowel. So I'll definitely have a go with it.
I read on Google that according to the international building code, spray foam is flammable even when dry. I think there is a reason dot & dab is still recognised as the industry standard so to speak
I'd like to see the finished wall with the straight edge used to give a perfectly straight ceiling and skirting line like you get with dab, in 45 years I've never had to use screws or stand holding a dabbed wall while it goes off
Far better to insulate walls when starting from fresh i personally would use this method foam does break down after time so long term could course a problem 💪🐸✌️
Would this foam offer any insulation R factor? I'm trying to figure out the best way to install insulation and drywall to a single depth brick garage conversion so it isn't so hot/cold inside. Thank you!
You have to insulate and add a vapour control barrier. Look at part L of the regs as they have changed recently. Talk to building control aswell because if want to sell in the future it will be a nightmare. This method still needs mechanical fixing.
That is a very good point that I should have included in my video. Thanks for watching and don't forget to like and subscribe to help my channel grow 👍🏼
whats the fire resistance of the foam? with dot and dab the head of the board is filled solid to prevent possible fire from rising behind the board and sub wall. with this I don't think the foam would last long in a fire and may even catch light and increase the fire risk. all the boards would flop off the wall into the middle of the room along with cable sandwiched behind it and make escape a nightmare aswell as any firemen entering being in trouble. I bet it has it uses for hard to get to places but I don't think uts a substitute for traditional dot and dab
I've chopped of 1.5 meteres where damp was and will be putting drywall on after damp proofing. What can I use to fill the small horizontal gap between the new drywall and the old existing brickwall.
hi great vid i watched this before and during putting up my boards - worked great! thank you :). or those sockets do the cables need to be chased in to get good contact with the wall? Also any advice on keeping the boards pushed to the wall while it goes hard. I had to stand holding them for 10 mins.
Chasing the cables would be better but very time consuming. You can throw a few screws into the wall to save you holding it. Thanks for watching and don't forget to like and subscribe to help me out 👍🏼
@spendtimesavemoneydiy - avoiding those cables as you throw the screws in :-). I like the idea of the foam as it avoids finding pipes and wires. I know one can use a detector but I wish all homes came with a 3d plan of pipes etc.
It's already expanded when you put it to the wall so it works like a glue. Thanks for watching and don't forget to like and subscribe to help my channel out 👍🏼
![How To Dot And Dab A Wall - Complete Guide - Plasterboard - Drylining A Wall [Plastering Tutorial]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/zHl4Ndg-TUs/mqdefault.jpg)
The socket marking tip is pure gold👍
Another bonus to using polyurethane foam for bonding plasterboard is there is no cold bridge spots as there sometimes are with conventional dry wall adhesive. Foam has great insulation qualities
Great point! 👍🏼
Agreed, the socket marking was genius
But I was thinking, in 2023 don't they require at least 244 mm of insulation to give you a decent EPC compliance? I have the plasterboard and all, but I am thinking about sandwiching some kingspan in between, will the foam hold to both wall insulation and plasterboard or do I need to screw it in on-top? I didn't want to build a timber frame.
@@thewizardsofthezoo5376 I just had building regs people round in mid 2023 and they required 100mm foam board, not 200plus
You shouldn’t get cold bridging from an internal skin as there’s insulation in the cavity.
Hardwall and bonding on that surface mate, followed by a tight skim. unbeatable.
Nice video mate . Your nice and humble not like a lot of tradesmen who do these videos,who seem very cocky and arrogant . But I will stick to board adhesive thanks.
I use the Soudal plasterboard adhesive. Amazing stuff. Would never dot ‘n dab.
It's surprising how many people criticise this method. They obviously haven't tried it.
Thanks for watching and please consider subscribing 👍🏼
Thank you. Full of info and the socket marking a real spot on idea.
LOVE LOVE LOVE your channel. It helps me to tackle other jobs I have only a little experience with saving me so much money. I love how you explain the procedures without blinding us with science like some others. Plus I love your accent too. Your product placements make me laugh but are useful as if you like the tool/product that's good enough for me.
Great video 👌🏽 Just recently started using foam myself I can’t fault it so far, cleaner, less strain on the body ! Also easier trick I find for the back boxes is to use off cut of plasterboard to scribe around them so leaves a chalk imprint on the back of the board when you tap it !
That's a great tip for the back boxes, thanks a lot.
Thanks for watching and don't forget to subscribe to help me out 👍🏼
I just wet the socket it marks the board
@@spendtimesavemoneydiy your welcome mate I taught James Brain how To do that when he was my apprentice.
@jamesbrain9652 It's so old fashion nowadays using dot & dab & messy...
Hi mate, nice video. I used this foam once, and even though it was good, it cost a fortune when comparing to drywall
This is especially good knowledge for covering a wall that has been tanking slurried beforehand
Sparky here. It was very nice to see you have shown that you isolated and locked off the sockets. Very good video. Will sub to you just for that for that bit alone.
Thanks for the sub! 👍🏼
That was so helpful and you explained everything so clearly. Thank you so much.
The insulation improvement will be enormous!.
A still air gap coupled with the polyurethane foam will be giving a resistance value close to 25mm foam backed plasterboard.
It would be interesting to do a controlled test to verify the U value.
That's not how it works, the R value of plasterboard is low and putting some foam in it wont give you an even insulation so you will get cold spots. The best results are if you batten the wall and then put PIR at least 50mm in between, tape the joints and then plasterboard on top with skim or tape and joint.
Thank you, I came here to ask that 😊.
Planning to insulate concrete garage.
Really like that presentation. Well done.
Love the socket marking out method, genius 👍
I like the bit where he puts the X in the box to make sure he remembers which bit is the waste material lol Good video, this stuff being used does prove the old continuous bead of board adhesive along the top for fire break is complete BS
Nice video and just a tip at 2:03 draw with a pen on the wall on the right side of the board to mark its position and then foam on the wall after moisting it within the penline, then on with the board, lesser foam accidents
Very impressive. Don't like dot dab as allows moisture potential condensation and mould. Supposed to apply bead all round edges to stop this, as you showed with foam, but rarely done. Easier by far with foam. Have fixed skirting with foam and very handy when needed to take it off later for furniture. Breadknife.
Great video, thanks. And over to the age old argument about when to have boards vertical vs horizontal
Quick question, wouldn't the moister of the brick affect the plaster board and eventually create mold issue? thanks
Nice tip..also if its similar to fire foam then it will form a fire barrier in the wall cavity around the electrical socket. Keep up the good videos!
The Screwfix No Nonsense sticky foam is cheap and not fire rated. 👎
So what do you do when you have to adjust the board? like having to pad it out a bit more.
Great tip. You could use two screws mid bottom and mid top as anchor points to grab the plaster board and then just patch the small holes to save you getting foam all over your hands.
That's a great tip.
Thanks for watching and don't forget to check out my other videos and subscribe to help my channel grow 👍🏼
Enjoyed your video and thanks for the advice, I’m fed up of cleaning the bloody bucket after dot and dab. Going to give this a try
Been looking for an easy to glue plywood shiplap to brick fireplace! This will make things so much easier !
Nice one. Your videos are always very informative.
I’ve used the foam before. I found you don’t have much time to work with it. Need to get it plumb quickly. I was putting insulated plasterboard onto old walls ( plastered and painted ) so this may have reduced my time significantly. Overall though, it’s been done a couple of years now and no issues.
I did this about a year ago and no issues either.
You're right you do have to work quite quickly but preparation is key.
Thank you for your clear video, I can use this on my rsj where the builders used dot and dab and timber which then failed as the timber took all the moisture out! Got a more competent builder to re finish the big structural stuff but leaves me to plaster board the rest. I’ve done the framed bits so dot and dab is next!
Why did they dot & dab on timber? I always use screws.
Good luck with your boarding and let me know how you get on.
Thanks for watching and please check out my other videos and subscribe to help my channel grow 👍🏼
@@spendtimesavemoneydiy you miss understand, screwed on all the framed bits bow it’s time to dot and dab the rest!
I do have a steel rsj to fire board so this stuff will work perfectly on that!
I like the idea but one question.....how many sheets will one can of foam do and how many bags of adhesive would it take to do the same number? In other words what's the cost comparison?
I have tried both but I prefer dot and dab in long term as the plaster hardens and prevents plasterboard not to warp. Foam is soft and can distort the joints.
I've never used foam to dot and dab but I'm on a job now where I've got no time or adhesive, just watched this after a quick search, using the exact same foam and it won't even stick to the substrate. I'll stick to drywall adhesive. Always thought it was a bad idea tbh. I'm a fully qualified plasterer as we before anyone chrips up
The walls need to be quite flat/straight to use foam.
I've struggled with 1920's walls where they can be up 25mm out. In those days great dollops of plaster sorted everything out.
If using on aircrete blocks you can drive long plasterboard screws straight in, to pull it all level/plumb..or hold it with a straight edge for 10 mins+!
I've used it on really bad walls. It is difficult and I used a lot of foam. A good tip is if you have a little movement in the board after it's cured them I drill a 10mm hole and fill with foam and it firms up great 👍🏼
Thanks for this. Struggling with uneven walls myself. Maybe make another video with older, uneven walls?
Adhesive plasterboard foam is the future!
It certainly is. So much easier.
Thanks for watching 👍🏼
😂😂😂😂 not a chance
I have used a similar product to line a steel shed with styrofoam and osb. Very pleased with it. Just wondering in a domestic situation how long would it hold plasterboard if a fire broke out. Maybe a few metal fixings would be good.
I'm hoping I will never find out 🔥 👍🏼
You’re supposed to add 4 metal fixings per board incase of fire
@@livingoffgridinscotland thank you, I,m about to fireproof board (and insulate) a garage to hold my office, solar inverters and batteries. Fire was a big thing on my mind, I will screw plenty fixings.
thanks for this. As I am about to do a very small job this method seems ideal.
job done, reasonably easy
A tip for getting dried foam off your hands. Rub vaseline into your hands thoroughly before bed time and it will literally drop off the following morning.
Great job, you make it look so easy.
Im planing to fix my workshop up a bit, can tgese boards be used in a welding workshop?
Thanks
Well, gonna give this a go tomorrow, will let you know how it goes.
How did you get on?
Subscribed because of this vid brilliant! Everyone loves a tidy easy hassel free job. Keep up the advices n tips
Great product and well taught but man you could save a ton of time by investing in a router for your outlets!
Just done 2 rooms using dot and dab method which turned out great. I used a similar product to this to board around the windows and was very surprised how much easier, quicker and tidier it was. Have my porch to do next and I’m tempted to go down this route.
I really like this method rather than traditional dot and dab.
Let me know how you get on 👍🏼
@@spendtimesavemoneydiy is it necessary to PVA the wall 1st
@@TheWiccanGirl if the walls are sound like these breeze blocks then no but if it was an old flakey wall then it's always a good idea to pva
Those aren't breezeblocks, they're concrete blocks. Less surface dust than thermalites, always PVA thermalite.
Push it back to the wall with a straight edge, any belly in area the foam will squash really easy and the board will then belly in so use that straight edge. A couple of straight long timbers held vertical against it with a couple of timber prop holding them in place for initial cure period, say 5- 10 mins. Only put some extra fixings in after fully cured or it will also pull the board in.
Thanks for this, exactly what I needed. Need to plasterboard my garage.
Never done any plasterboarding so this was really helpful.
What kind of screws will you use if you needed to tighten the board to the wall. I'm guessing you will need wall plugs which will be hard to put in once the boards up.
How do you get around pipes that are in the wall?
Good video, I'll try your foam idea for my porch project. Thanks
I notice the plasterboard will be sitting a fair way off the brick wall due to conduit, socket etc. Is there any problems aligning the plasterboards with this method or do you just push and eyeball it?
I didn't have much trouble aligning the boards but you could always throw in a few screws if you're having trouble.
Thanks for watching and please consider subscribing 👍🏼
Great video! Very informative and gives me the confidence to get on and re board my son’s room! One question, I see that the socket on the wall has been chased in slightly but it looks like another hasn’t. Is there a ‘best practice for how much a back box should protrude from the wall prior to boarding in this manner? Also, what’s the finished gap between the brick/block and the board? Many thanks!
The reason I make videos is exactly what you said. To give others the information and confidence to tackle jobs themselves and to pass on some useful tips too.
So I'm glad you are giving it a go.
Some of my backboxes were deeper than others so that's why some are chased in.
A 35mm box will probably end up flush to the board without chasing it in but it will depend on how much foam is used and how plumb the walls are.
Thanks for watching and don't forget to like and subscribe to help my channel grow 👍🏼
Excellent video mate. Super clear and many thanks for the impression amd marking top tip. Buying this product tomorrow. Ta la.
You're welcome, let me know how you get on and if my video helped you much 👍🏼
does the foam gun not get blocked with the adhesive foam?
Dab it mate, expanding foams OK for sticking small bits of board on but not full walls, the foam will deteriorate over time and crumble like dust. I would definitely put some screws in to give a mechanical fix to the wall
Awesome bro!! You just solved an issue for me - 😎
Glad my video helped you out. Let me know how you get on.
Thanks for watching and don't forget to like and subscribe to help the channel out 👍🏼
Great video! Some other videos say you should put UVA on the walls, is it not necessary while using your foam method?
Do you have to put a vcl if it’s a cavity wall. Thinking of using insulated plasterboard. Also dya think you could use this method on ceilings .
Cheers
If you do this on a ceiling you still need to screw the plasterboard but you use less screws
Do you have to do anything to a painted surface to use this foam for adding plasterboard ?
I’m going to plaster board my kitchen but want to tile over the plaster board will the foam hold the plasterboard with tiles on?
Could this be used to plasterboard over Artex?
I just love the accent 😊
Thanks 😊
Great video. I want to plasterboard in a bedroom but just on the outside wall. Do I need to take the existing plaster off first?
NO
Nice ill try that... bloody hate washing up d and d
Would this help prevent the board drawing in damp? Want to plaster my porch but worried the red brick will cause damp with gypsum board. Cheers
Hi, could you overboard ceiling using this. With the assist of props, thanks
Very good video!
Glad you enjoyed it.
Thanks for watching and don't forget to like and subscribe to help me out 👍🏼
I have a very uneven wall i need to do this on (plastering on bottom but not on top of wall, also a chimney i removed). would dot & dab be better for such a particular case? because then I can just use bigger dabs in order to level things out. that seems difficult with this adhesive?
Last question. Could you use foam on thermal insulation board?
Yes you can
I cant help but wonder how the expanding foam doesn't push the board away from the wall. I guess id have to try it and see for myself what happens. One place i absolutely detest dot and dab is in kitchens. It can be a nightmare fixing back wall units. Sometimes, the old fashioned or traditional building methods are much better.
It doesn't expand as much as regular foam
You'd maybe consider the original dot and dab method for a wall with wall units to be fitted and make sure the wall is well dab'd along the fixing line for the wall units. It's very solid once it cures and would be plenty to stop the bounce depending on the thickness. The wall behind is pretty important too and you have to make sure you use longer screws to fix the brackets.
Does this need the breeze block to be primed like with PVA when dot & dabbing
Would this work for 30mm insulating plasterboard as well?
Yes it would.
Thanks for watching and don't forget to check out my other videos and subscribe to help my channel grow 👍🏼
I’ve got a basement room on our extension which is slabbed floor and walls seemed damp before all outside was rendered. You think this system you use would be ok now walls have dried out??
I think it would work.
Thanks for watching and please check out my other videos and subscribe to help my channel grow 👍🏼
Is that just a regular can of expanding foam or a particular foam to fix plasterboards?
It's sticky foam with better adhesive properties than regular foam.
Can this be done to a solid 9inch brick wall? Or will it only work on brick walls with a cavity?
Love this so enjoyable to watch you put that up so easily ! Makes me think I could do it myself!! Just had the loft boarded. We want to plasterboard the walls !!! X well done Rob.. you make it look sooh easy !!! X
Thanks Jen. It is the easiest way to plasterboard I've found. Bet you could do it x
Believe me, you'll regret diy ing it!
As a chippy I use to do the tiles on walls with silicon , a lot quicker and no mess ‘ just put it on four corners and centre , last for ever ‘ especially tiles on tiles
N
yeah it will also stick pretty well to a brand new set of levels.
Great video! Does this work with foam backed plasterboard (i.e. the one that comes with insulation already mounted on the back)
It works great with insulated plasterboard and the extra rigidity of the insulation makes it easier to install than regular plasterboard.
Thanks for watching 👍🏼
Would this method work on moisture board in a shower/bathroom?
Does this work on a single block external wall or will damp pull through? Thanks Tom
The damp would probably pull through without a cavity.
Thanks for watching and please consider subscribing 👍🏼
Place a full piece of cabinet grade plywood 3/4" as a backup. Wedge with some 2x4 lumber. To hold till dry.
Because it can push away from wall as it dries
Will this adhere to an old emulsioned brick wall ...
I notice your videos are becoming more professional with the quality buddy. Great to see!
And great video. How that stuff can stick to ceramics and rockwool I've no idea!
Are you doing video on plastering these boards? Would be awesome to see that.
Thank you. I am terrible at making videos but I have tried my best to improve the quality.
I invested in a new wireless microphone and I try to plan them a bit better. In January I will be getting a new phone so hopefully the image quality should improve. I film it all on an iPhone xr at the moment.
I have already done a plastering video so I didn't do another one for this project. 👍🏼
I'm not gonna lie. I had dab and dot. IT is just messy and winded process prior of skimming, which in itself requires a good amount of energy on the trowel. So I'll definitely have a go with it.
Awesome video. I'll be doing this soon
Don't lol
@@liquidsnake6879 that's helpful
Would this be strong enough to stick plasterboard to a ceiling?
No you would need screws aswell but not as many
Could you use this when overboarding a ceiling or would you have to use batten and screws ?
You would have to screw the boards on a ceiling
I read on Google that according to the international building code, spray foam is flammable even when dry. I think there is a reason dot & dab is still recognised as the industry standard so to speak
Could you do that with foam backed boards?
I'd like to see the finished wall with the straight edge used to give a perfectly straight ceiling and skirting line like you get with dab, in 45 years I've never had to use screws or stand holding a dabbed wall while it goes off
Far better to insulate walls when starting from fresh i personally would use this method foam does break down after time so long term could course a problem 💪🐸✌️
good job
Would this foam offer any insulation R factor? I'm trying to figure out the best way to install insulation and drywall to a single depth brick garage conversion so it isn't so hot/cold inside. Thank you!
Maybe use this foam but with insulated plaster boards.
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You have to insulate and add a vapour control barrier. Look at part L of the regs as they have changed recently. Talk to building control aswell because if want to sell in the future it will be a nightmare. This method still needs mechanical fixing.
Is this method ok for external inside wall?
About to give this a go to save myself some money, you've made it look idiot proof! Wish me luck 😂
Let me know how you get on.
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You would have to rely on very good brickies to use that system
Fortunately my brickies were spot on.
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Would it still work on foil backed plasterboard?
Thanks
Another reason for using foam is damp wil not pass from the wall to the board
That is a very good point that I should have included in my video.
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This is just PU foam that has some extra adhesive in it. So is it firesafe?
Great tips, to the point!
Foam is the way, no heavy bags or mixing!
whats the fire resistance of the foam? with dot and dab the head of the board is filled solid to prevent possible fire from rising behind the board and sub wall. with this I don't think the foam would last long in a fire and may even catch light and increase the fire risk. all the boards would flop off the wall into the middle of the room along with cable sandwiched behind it and make escape a nightmare aswell as any firemen entering being in trouble. I bet it has it uses for hard to get to places but I don't think uts a substitute for traditional dot and dab
This No nonsense Sticky foam ain't fire rated. Wouldn't touch it with a barge pole, stick to dot and dab
Yes Andy Sugdan. Hope your doing well. Can’t see that working as d&d though
I've chopped of 1.5 meteres where damp was and will be putting drywall on after damp proofing. What can I use to fill the small horizontal gap between the new drywall and the old existing brickwall.
Bonding plaster to fill gaps before skimming with multi finish.
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Love the Australian accent!
I'm pretty sure he's from Liverpool?
Nice one, cheers buddy 🤩💪😔
You're very welcome.
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hi great vid i watched this before and during putting up my boards - worked great! thank you :). or those sockets do the cables need to be chased in to get good contact with the wall? Also any advice on keeping the boards pushed to the wall while it goes hard. I had to stand holding them for 10 mins.
Chasing the cables would be better but very time consuming.
You can throw a few screws into the wall to save you holding it.
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😂😂😂
You could use a peace of wood at an angle as a prop maybe?
@spendtimesavemoneydiy - avoiding those cables as you throw the screws in :-). I like the idea of the foam as it avoids finding pipes and wires. I know one can use a detector but I wish all homes came with a 3d plan of pipes etc.
How thin does the foam compress down to?
hmmm, but foam expand and move board from wall. how you deal with this?
It's already expanded when you put it to the wall so it works like a glue.
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