This was really nice from the perspective that you were able to look at the car and see the good stuff and not focus on the bad. It drives me crazy when people think they are doing you a favor by looking at your car and finding every microscopic scratch and telling you about it. Thanks for doing a thorough job and not being a deal killer.
I bought a 1971 Pontiac Grand Prix in 1987,it was sitting in a garage for eight years when we found it,the original owner passed away and his wife wouldn’t sell it,when she passed,their son sold it to us with 28,000 miles on it,now has 75,000 on it.Through out the years we have replaced anything that needed to be replaced or repaired,from water pump to radiator but kept all original parts,even the radio.This year we pulled the 400/4bbl and replaced all seals,motor mounts,timing chain,anything that needed to be fixed was fixed,been driving it every nice day this summer,about to go for an early morning cruise now.I love driving around before the humans rise. Hope everybody finds their classic for a reasonable price and is able to enjoy it.
Hey there Jeff, this was awesome 😎👍 content, in my humble opinion!!! You hit all of the major items to screen for, most important of which, to enlist someone like yourself. The small amount of money to pay a competent person, if your really interested in car, can save you thousands, and stave off massive regret and heartache... Great segment brother. Please don't forget to let Jackson out the Mach 1 trunk, it gets too hot down there !!!!
As always, a great education. The rubber plug on the shock tower got my attention; I've seen where some didn't even bother. A big thanks for your remarks about the damaged frame rail and rear drum brakes. A lot of the points show the need for familiarity with ewhat you are thinking of buying. It's also a good idea to match the VIN to the title; I've seen many classic vehicles, particularly pickups, advertised with a wrong year model. I once saw a 1968 Galaxie advertised as a 1969. The seller had bought some cars at an estate sale and, not only not knowing how to ID year models, the problem was compounded by not verifying the VIN. This seems to be fairly common. Another guy was trying to sell a 1973 Ranchero as a 1972, because the manufacturing date was July of 1972 (had a 1973 VIN, model year changeover time). Not enough aspirin to take care of that kind of headache.
A good "Driver quality" car is never perfect, which is what I like. You can use it, no biggie. Same with clones & coupes converted to fastback, that were properly done (but not represented as "Original"); you can enjoy it more with less worry
In real estate it’s Location … Location … Location. When it comes to classic cars it’s Rust … Rust … Rust.. my wife’s 1965 Mustang was 99% rust free. Our 1968 Mercury Cougar only had some very minor surface rust. Everything else can be purchased at NPD or West Coast Classic Cougar. Rust repair is very expensive.
Just yesterday I bought a restored 1967 Mercury Cougar. It is two toned black from the bottom of the windows and from there down it's silver metalflake. It is a numbers matching 289/C-4. With a Vintage A/C system a thumpy aftermarket radio new windshield new headliner and also carpet with new upholstery on all of the seats. It has the Shelby drop and some 17 inch Shelby style rims. At $21K I think I got a pretty good deal on the car. The only thing "wrong" with it is the steering wheel is to big. The distance from my knee to my ankle makes my knee hit the bottom of the wheel. So I'm going to have to change to one just a little bit smaller.
@@Savannahjbo The cougar is sitting next to my 1967 Ford Mustang Coupe. And there is not a nut, bolt, or screw on the Mustang that I have not touched. It was just a rolling shell when I bought it. The guy who I got the cougar from gave me some of the manuals that you posted about. He also included a date coded Ford power steering pump from 1967 that he bought at a yard sale for $2.00 and the power steering rack that you need. I just need to find/make the bracket for the pump and I've got factory power steering.
I have a tool called "Filler Detective". It is highly accurate on determining body filler thickness. A must if looking to buy a car like the one you are examining.
@@AutoRestoMod I use one of those flexible refrigerator magnets - ie: Rock Auto magnet, but I don't drag it. I lay it on the paint and see if it sticks.
Good information and review of the process. We're assuming this is a medium to HIGH dollar example, but this is a good initial inspection, Jeff. Check the documentation, Marti Report (if available), build sheet, etc. From there, we'd have to get it on a hoist, no if's and's or butts. These cars can hide too many surprises... perhaps some that the current caretaker isn't aware of. Look closely for evidence of serious collision damage... back in the day many cars were patched together, sometimes whole sections... in the most unscrupulous manner. We once seen a car where the whole rear body section was just tacked on... all hidden by filler and undercoating. We'd examine the entire body with a proper high quality paint gauge, for comparative readings. Then, get it in the air and start pokin' and proddin'. Use a good snake light/ camera combo, check those front rails, torque boxes, get inside them if possible with the endo camera. Rust is your worst enemy on these cars. Also, get inside that cowl from above and thru the firewall under the hood, if possible. get a good look at all the door and trunk seams, peer inside the trunk up towards the front. You are looking for corrosion, evidence of water leaks in the past. Get that snake inside the quarters, probe the front lower sections. Same goes for the front fenders. If the owner has the results of a recent wet/dry compression check that would save you from doing it... if allowed. At very least, he should let you do a vacuum gauge test; Even that tells you a lot about the condition of the engine. We've only touched the surface here on what should be checked out, don't forget the clutch/transmission/rear axle, although the drive should reveal most issues there. Caveat Emptor is the order of the day...
All of that was done much of it on the ground. The Marti report, to be honest, was not a priority on this one since it was highly modified. On a car that is stock, and high end, yeah, it is good to have.
Couldn’t be explained better. Thanks. Of course I personally care a lot to the details and history, but that’s personal preference. I definitely recommend getting advice from an expert like ARM before buying a classic car.
Yeah I get what you’re saying when you say, “a car someone gives a crap about” it means it isn’t a flipper special. I’ve seen some real crap out there. A buddy of mine bought one, I felt bad for him, but he learned a lot.
@@AutoRestoMod I watched Uncle Tony’s video yesterday, his buddy had one in his shop. A 67 cougar convertible. You walk up on it, it was stunning, until you got it in the air. It was not just ugly, it was downright scary, from the safety aspect.
Always love your videos, have a question and hope you can give me a answer. I have a 67 mustang convertible that I want to put a 2000 mustang leather interior into, how would you recommend to install the back seat? Would it be easier to buy the rear sear mounts for a 2000 mustang? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Measure it first. The buckets are easy, Im using a pair in my 1964 falcon. But you'll want to measure seat height, width, etc, and compare. On the Falcon, I will have a local upholstery shop match the front buckets.
@@AutoRestoMod i got the complete set front and rear, I understand where you are going. From what I have read the dimensions are roughly the same the biggest difference is the top part of the rear seat is mounted differently. I will take the car to a local welding shop and show them what I want to do, thanks for your time.
@@AutoRestoMod I would be too. The price of restored classics these days is keeping me and a lot of people out of the game. I'll just keep chipping away at fixing up the Ranchero as funds allow I guess.
wow its got a passenger side door mirror you'ld be surprised the trouble ive been in with law enforcement with only 1 factory mirror build sheet for my coupe says manufactured august/67 and that year had the clutch pedal spring of death no automotive or body shop will touch it to replace bushings i discovered a trick to remove it safely without busting my fingers 69 had a more modern setup clutch pedal spring other issues with my 67 hauled up from texas the glass fuse terminals were so cooked they became metal fatigued so bad every light was dim yellow and mice had chewed rear tail light wires inside rocker panels those were bare copper all the way back. there's a big X support spot welded behind rear sear back spot welds often let go indeed they were on mine i still need to change out front spring perch bushings rubber is totally rotted away quarter window regulator nylon bushings SUPER hard to find these days and gooooooooooooooooooood luck finding the front amber colored side marker light bulbs they do not eggzist and i am so done searching for those. the factory build sheet was tightly wrapped black taped hidden to wire harness behind gauge cluster has the vin # also had to rebuild shifter assembly take out the play
This was really nice from the perspective that you were able to look at the car and see the good stuff and not focus on the bad. It drives me crazy when people think they are doing you a favor by looking at your car and finding every microscopic scratch and telling you about it. Thanks for doing a thorough job and not being a deal killer.
Thanks for the kind words.
I bought a 1971 Pontiac Grand Prix in 1987,it was sitting in a garage for eight years when we found it,the original owner passed away and his wife wouldn’t sell it,when she passed,their son sold it to us with 28,000 miles on it,now has 75,000 on it.Through out the years we have replaced anything that needed to be replaced or repaired,from water pump to radiator but kept all original parts,even the radio.This year we pulled the 400/4bbl and replaced all seals,motor mounts,timing chain,anything that needed to be fixed was fixed,been driving it every nice day this summer,about to go for an early morning cruise now.I love driving around before the humans rise. Hope everybody finds their classic for a reasonable price and is able to enjoy it.
Ran across your video this morning. Really informative. Enjoyed the whole presentation. Great audio and video. Looking forward to more videos.
That is a gorgeous Fastback. A friend of mine had two 67 fastbacks in the early 90’s
It is.
Hey there Jeff, this was awesome 😎👍 content, in my humble opinion!!! You hit all of the major items to screen for, most important of which, to enlist someone like yourself. The small amount of money to pay a competent person, if your really interested in car, can save you thousands, and stave off massive regret and heartache... Great segment brother. Please don't forget to let Jackson out the Mach 1 trunk, it gets too hot down there !!!!
Glad you enjoyed it! Jackson is safely in the Gran Torino trunk living his best life.
Thanks! I'm looking to buy in the spring. I'm trying to get re-education and up to speed !
As always, a great education. The rubber plug on the shock tower got my attention; I've seen where some didn't even bother. A big thanks for your remarks about the damaged frame rail and rear drum brakes. A lot of the points show the need for familiarity with ewhat you are thinking of buying.
It's also a good idea to match the VIN to the title; I've seen many classic vehicles, particularly pickups, advertised with a wrong year model. I once saw a 1968 Galaxie advertised as a 1969. The seller had bought some cars at an estate sale and, not only not knowing how to ID year models, the problem was compounded by not verifying the VIN. This seems to be fairly common.
Another guy was trying to sell a 1973 Ranchero as a 1972, because the manufacturing date was July of 1972 (had a 1973 VIN, model year changeover time). Not enough aspirin to take care of that kind of headache.
and Mustangs were nasty for losing the driver side door and the VIN tag on it. Luckily they had another number under the driver side fender.
Very nice Mustang.
A good "Driver quality" car is never perfect, which is what I like. You can use it, no biggie. Same with clones & coupes converted to fastback, that were properly done (but not represented as "Original"); you can enjoy it more with less worry
In real estate it’s
Location … Location … Location. When it comes to classic cars it’s Rust … Rust … Rust.. my wife’s 1965 Mustang was 99% rust free. Our 1968 Mercury Cougar only had some very minor surface rust. Everything else can be purchased at NPD or West Coast Classic Cougar. Rust repair is very expensive.
Would love to see you do a collaboration video with Uncle Tony's Kiwi friend. You both have Phd's in Ford-ology. And ya couldn't live too far apart.
I guess we are all watching the same channels…😀
Just yesterday I bought a restored 1967 Mercury Cougar. It is two toned black from the bottom of the windows and from there down it's silver metalflake. It is a numbers matching 289/C-4. With a Vintage A/C system a thumpy aftermarket radio new windshield new headliner and also carpet with new upholstery on all of the seats. It has the Shelby drop and some 17 inch Shelby style rims. At $21K I think I got a pretty good deal on the car. The only thing "wrong" with it is the steering wheel is to big. The distance from my knee to my ankle makes my knee hit the bottom of the wheel. So I'm going to have to change to one just a little bit smaller.
Congratulations on the new car! I love the old Cougars!
get some O E assembly manuals .. will be for two cars , car A and Car B . very neat way they did it ... Mustang/Cougar A/B
@@Savannahjbo The cougar is sitting next to my 1967 Ford Mustang Coupe. And there is not a nut, bolt, or screw on the Mustang that I have not touched. It was just a rolling shell when I bought it. The guy who I got the cougar from gave me some of the manuals that you posted about. He also included a date coded Ford power steering pump from 1967 that he bought at a yard sale for $2.00 and the power steering rack that you need. I just need to find/make the bracket for the pump and I've got factory power steering.
@@kayeninetwo3585 Thanks.
I have a tool called "Filler Detective". It is highly accurate on determining body filler thickness. A must if looking to buy a car like the one you are examining.
Yep. The magnet in the sock is a close second.
@@AutoRestoMod I use one of those flexible refrigerator magnets - ie: Rock Auto magnet, but I don't drag it. I lay it on the paint and see if it sticks.
… Good overall inspection,
Subscribed
Thanks!
Thank you!
Good information and review of the process. We're assuming this is a medium to HIGH dollar example, but this is a good initial inspection, Jeff.
Check the documentation, Marti Report (if available), build sheet, etc.
From there, we'd have to get it on a hoist, no if's and's or butts.
These cars can hide too many surprises... perhaps some that the current caretaker isn't aware of.
Look closely for evidence of serious collision damage... back in the day many cars were patched together, sometimes whole sections... in the most unscrupulous manner. We once seen a car where the whole rear body section was just tacked on... all hidden by filler and undercoating.
We'd examine the entire body with a proper high quality paint gauge, for comparative readings. Then, get it in the air and start pokin' and proddin'. Use a good snake light/ camera combo, check those front rails, torque boxes, get inside them if possible with the endo camera. Rust is your worst enemy on these cars. Also, get inside that cowl from above and thru the firewall under the hood, if possible. get a good look at all the door and trunk seams, peer inside the trunk up towards the front. You are looking for corrosion, evidence of water leaks in the past.
Get that snake inside the quarters, probe the front lower sections. Same goes for the front fenders.
If the owner has the results of a recent wet/dry compression check that would save you from doing it... if allowed. At very least, he should let you do a vacuum gauge test; Even that tells you a lot about the condition of the engine. We've only touched the surface here on what should be checked out, don't forget the clutch/transmission/rear axle, although the drive should reveal most issues there.
Caveat Emptor is the order of the day...
All of that was done much of it on the ground. The Marti report, to be honest, was not a priority on this one since it was highly modified. On a car that is stock, and high end, yeah, it is good to have.
My dad would put a magnet in the palm of a soft glove and run his hand around the normal repair areas.
My biggest peeve on this car is that the “M” in Mustang on the passenger side is misaligned.
Lol saw that. It would bug me too.
I'd like some more info on the 77-78 cobra ll in the background.
It is for sale, but I don't like the price email me, and I can put you in touch with the owner jford@autorestomod.com
Curious of the price?
Is the red Mustang looks like a 68 in the background for sale?
It is very clapped out it was bought as a parts car.
23:10 brake lights. Good?
What a beautiful car!
Nice car.👍😃
Couldn’t be explained better. Thanks.
Of course I personally care a lot to the details and history, but that’s personal preference.
I definitely recommend getting advice from an expert like ARM before buying a classic car.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Yeah I get what you’re saying when you say, “a car someone gives a crap about” it means it isn’t a flipper special. I’ve seen some real crap out there. A buddy of mine bought one, I felt bad for him, but he learned a lot.
It does happen this one was well Loved
@@AutoRestoMod I watched Uncle Tony’s video yesterday, his buddy had one in his shop. A 67 cougar convertible. You walk up on it, it was stunning, until you got it in the air. It was not just ugly, it was downright scary, from the safety aspect.
Great video!
i wanted to know the cost of the car?
Always love your videos, have a question and hope you can give me a answer. I have a 67 mustang convertible that I want to put a 2000 mustang leather interior into, how would you recommend to install the back seat? Would it be easier to buy the rear sear mounts for a 2000 mustang? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Measure it first. The buckets are easy, Im using a pair in my 1964 falcon. But you'll want to measure seat height, width, etc, and compare. On the Falcon, I will have a local upholstery shop match the front buckets.
@@AutoRestoMod i got the complete set front and rear, I understand where you are going. From what I have read the dimensions are roughly the same the biggest difference is the top part of the rear seat is mounted differently. I will take the car to a local welding shop and show them what I want to do, thanks for your time.
Maybe it's time to lock Jackson in the trunk of the Mach 1 until his attitude changes.
really good informative video! thanks
Yo are welcome.
I don’t like mustangs. But this car looks damn good !
I DO like Mustangs and I agree!
Did your viewer/client end up buying it?
Yes. He is ecstatic
@@AutoRestoMod I would be too. The price of restored classics these days is keeping me and a lot of people out of the game. I'll just keep chipping away at fixing up the Ranchero as funds allow I guess.
What did the new owner pay for it?
That is between him and the owner.
Great Videos thank you... Whats on your elbow?
What is the price
That's between the buyer and the seller
Great video Ford power forever l love it
Thanks! Us too.
The only way to buy and restore classic cars is WITH HUGE AMOUNTS OF DISPOSABLE CASH OR CREDIT LINES.
Isn't that any hobby worth doing?
wow its got a passenger side door mirror you'ld be surprised the trouble ive been in with law enforcement with only 1 factory mirror build sheet for my coupe says manufactured august/67 and that year had the clutch pedal spring of death no automotive or body shop will touch it to replace bushings i discovered a trick to remove it safely without busting my fingers 69 had a more modern setup clutch pedal spring other issues with my 67 hauled up from texas the glass fuse terminals were so cooked they became metal fatigued so bad every light was dim yellow and mice had chewed rear tail light wires inside rocker panels those were bare copper all the way back. there's a big X support spot welded behind rear sear back spot welds often let go indeed they were on mine i still need to change out front spring perch bushings rubber is totally rotted away quarter window regulator nylon bushings SUPER hard to find these days and gooooooooooooooooooood luck finding the front amber colored side marker light bulbs they do not eggzist and i am so done searching for those. the factory build sheet was tightly wrapped black taped hidden to wire harness behind gauge cluster has the vin # also had to rebuild shifter assembly take out the play
Pretty nice car. Fun driver too.
A UA-camr is a potato with a camera and a dream.
Everyone starts somewhere, we originally had just one camera. Now we've got three! Four if you count Darrin's GoPro.
$67G
Ha it don't Mar the paint...black shows all
They seriously need to mow.
Hahahahaha
Great video....but come on man, the left lane is for passing....don't be that guy
Turn radius was not great if I'm honest.
I think I have more "crappy" cars than you do.
Idunnobud.
Do we really need the stupid music when out test driving the car?
Stupid is as stupid does.
Thanks!
Thank you!