@@IlDiLySm He means that the car should line up with the VIN number. That will tell what the car came with. If you pay a lot of a car with Pony Seats, but orginally the car didn't came with Pony Seats, it's not worth paying 'top-dollar'. ( I am not a expert, but I would like to help if it did. :)
@@IlDiLySm if the seller is asking like 20-30k for a mustang fastback, but the VIN number says it's a coupe (which is a 3rd of the price of a fastback) but it has a fast back hood instead of a coupe hood that means it's fake and isn't worth it's looks. Same goes with the pony seats if it says it doesn't have that trim but has the seats he probably bought them cheap and wants to make 5000 dollars off a replica, all in all everything has to be in line with the VIN, u can make a 69 look like a Boss but if the VIN doesn't say it has that trim than it's not worth 300k it's worth 20k but has like 10k worth of boss parts.
@@IlDiLySm It looks like my car 65 but mine had the pony interior in the VIN which was a package not just seats but wood rimmed steering wheel and 'fake wood' glove box and dials and door handles. This one looks, to me, a bit mix and match. It's not just about money I think aesthetically the 'ordinary' trim looks just as nice as the pony trim when it all matches which this one doesn't.
If it looks like this car in the video go over the car even more. Just cause it looks nice with paint on it doesn't mean it's not rusty under the paint.
In the early 90's just stopped at this big car dealership, walked in and looked around, and then I heard my name, softly, coming from the back of the store, eduardo, eduardo..., and then there she was, candyred 289 67 coupe, 4 speed top loader, we enjoyed each other for the next 10 years...
I was so glad to hear you warn people about the cowl panels on these old mustangs. I bought a red 1965 coupe because it was almost identical to the one I had back in Vietnam times. Actually, my son went and bought it for me. Looked decent and ran o.k. but it had a leaking cowl panel. Silly me. I thought "no problem. Can't be that hard to replace that little panel. WRONG! Was/is a nightmare to replace cowl panels on these old mustangs. You have to take the front end of the car apart to properly replace these SOBs. And so many old mustangs for sale that look decent but the cowl is a "ticking time bomb" on them. The OP does warn toward the end of this video to get up under the dash and check near the heater for evidence of a leak. LISTEN TO HIM! And ask seller specifically if the cowl panel has been replaced before you buy one. Now I got my old mustang for a decent price so can't say I got "SKINNED" but I did not do enough research before buying. Of course the one I had back in Vietnam times didn't have a leaking cowl panel because it simply was not old enough to yet. Oh. Also. Be prepared to pay a boatload of gold if you want one of the old fastbacks. As stated, I did not get skinned on the one I bought but people are paying insane prices for all of the old fastback models. There is a guy named Dan Peterson who takes old rusted fastback models out of junkyards and completely re-manufactures them. But he has exceptional technical and mechanical skills. He has many posts on UA-cam. If you have the mechanical skills and watch his posts he will show you how to rebuild one those old mustangs from basic frame up. Enough.
I just bought a very good 3+ daily driver for $8500. I won't have to put much into it, I don't race and I'm not going to win any shows. But I will have fun maintaining and driving it.
@@alexyelado491 In retrospect, do your homework. Learn to identify codes that are cast onto engine parts. I found out my engine isn't a Mustang engine. It's a Falcon from the same year but it still runs. Expect to pay good money for a good mechanic.
My grandpa bought mine for my 21st birthday, the only rust it has is on the muffler which I removed, and we sanded down the rest. We bought the 1965 C-Code coupe that was modified for $2,500 back in '09, the reason why it sold so low was because it was brown, and it wasn't all original.
Id say mine was an overall 3 in the begining. Drivable and looked good but had some front end issues and a transmission leak. Edit: all the little things have grown on me over the years. And I live with it as best I can. It still looks great from a distance with no structural rust damage. The choke doesnt really work tho so you just cant be in a hurry when the engine is cold. I think about getting a new carburetor that works better than the OEM one. And aside from the sound sometimes gets drowned out by the engine or wind noise at high speed because there's only one speaker in front, I love my aftermarket stereo. Bluetooth and Soundcloud functionality and the console looks original and the shop even put plastic in place to cover up the holes left over from the last owner.
Just bought my first 64.5 stang new floor pans trunk quarters needs paint and interior I have a efi 5.0 going in it. I can paint my color and do what I want. Excited
It's really a waiting game, once in a while you will find a realistic priced Coupe or Fastback, most of the cars online you'll see with 50-300K all around, you have to ask if it's even original which most are not, Full custom and restored cars are nice (Elenore), but they're never going to be worth what they put into them EVER and that's why they've been for sale for EVER. I'm not paying $15000 for a rusted shell when I can buy a brand new one for 17K. If you want original great, but if you buy a totally rusted out car that requires 90% new metal then you will never get your money back and you just paid for a VIN number. Some people like complete restores, if you have the tools required great, but you will always spend more restoring one then a finish car.
Fact, picked up a project cheap but was way over my ability to repair most myself. I’m not a body man and rust was in the worst areas. Sold it for a small profit to a body man and purchased a cherry 66 for $14k. I would have had that in the original in paint and body alone
I was roaming on the offer up app this morning and I came across a 1965 Mustang for 9500 dollars in the pictures posted it looks like it will only need a new paint job, flooring, seats, new radio system, and a window tint all around
For one anyone wondering price range for V8 65-70 here in Cali depending on condition we’ll go with his driver most likely 4. Maybe some qualities of a 3. mine has very minimal surface rust, floors are good, trunk is good, doors are sanded and primered, rest of car is original white paint in 7/10 condition. Interior is all original with only the carpet needing reconditioning. Running engine with a small coolant leak not to big of a deal. Transmission shifts smooth it’s an auto. The options on mine were auto, power steering, disc brakes & it’s a C code 289. I bought it for 9k. Most I see selling in this condition now in my area 10-15k. Good luck hope this helped!
@@mikemarquez971Hi, I live in Southern California. I purchased a 68 Mustang coupe in 1977 in great shape. 289 automatic, power steering, Factory AC, white, with white vynil top.2 tone blue interior. Have owned it 47 years now, what questions do you have??
If your buying a 50 60 yrar old car buy from dry arid climates. My 68 Mustang that was purchased in Southern California , that I've owned since 1977 has no body rust like this car . The undercarriage has some slight surface rust here and there, but nothing that requires any intervention or concern. Its never seen snow, hell it hardly ever rains here. Even the cowl is still perfectly fine.
I just finished restoring my 65 a code couple sold 64 June Had it since I was 16 years old , I got serious about repairs 2 years ago and hit it hard very expensive thing to do
Would it increase the value of any American muscle car if it had exotic provenance? Example - My dad used to own a Mustang 289 hardtop in Jamaica in the late 70s so would that history make it worth more?
Good Info! this one in video has the instrument panel with two large gauges on each end. Is that part of a true Pony Car? Now I'M looking into how to determine if a 1965 to 1966 Mustang is really a pony car? I just acquired a 1965 coupe it is bare Vin # only has no Trim Tag, no seats, instrument panel, glove box cover, dash does have panel with dip (half circle) for the cluster with one large center 2 on each side
Great video! Only thing I would change is that I'd address the cowl first instead of waiting until 12 min into the video. The vast majority of those old 64-66 mustangs have some degree of rust in the cowl. And it's not a cheap or easy fix either.
As I look, as much as I like the weird cars like the mustang II, there's just no aftermarket for something like that and I can't fabricate everything I need like sheet metal and parts so whatever I get needs a huge aftermarket. I can't afford to get a car that's had a full restoration, would start with a driver.
Hi. Is there any particular years to avoid? Im going to take a look at a 1966 ALL original. 289 Engine 30k original miles interior is original also. Basically a car never rebuilt. The person is asking 20K (price is very negotiable according to the ad). IF the car is in good condition what would be a reasonable offer? I have never owned a mustang but I have always dreamed having one. thanks
Jhonathan Rivera i am guessing it’s a coupe. 65 and 66 are basically the same car so nothing wrong with either one. An all original low mile car would easily be worth $20k if it’s in good shape, low mileage doesn’t always mean it’s a nice car so check for rust, signs of accidents, make sure they can document the mileage which can be tricky.
Hey, I’m thinking of buying a 1969 mustang convertible with v8 and automatic transmission in it. I want to do around America road trip, would you consider it as a good idea? I don’t know if these mustangs are reliable enough and what parts are most likely to fail. I’m looking at 2/3 level of restoration.
I have done long road trips in my stock 1965 V8 3 speed auto Mustang before. I wouldnt really reccomend it without an overdrive. I do 3000 rpm to go 70 mph. It can be done, sure. You'll just need to stop more often for fuel. And I had some bad experiences with the C4 leaking badly on the way once but it didnt do that every time I went on 4 hour long highway drives so dont base reliability on that tidbit I guess. If you want to travel all over the US all the time I would reccomend you install a Monster Transmission AOD or Tremmec T5Z in it. It will help you to keep up with the flow of traffick without having to stay at higher rpms. Also highway driving is equivalent to 10 percent of city driving as far as wear is concerned. In my experience, the most likely thing to fail on the (and I have a 2bbl v8) engine is the points if it still has points. But those are cheap and relatively easy to swap out if you have the tools. The OEM Ford carburators also I was told were never that great. I still have one on mine and its fickle. Probably going bad. If it has drum brakes I would reccomend switching to discs as drums will overheat after just one or two hard stops and not work until they cool down if you wanna drive on the highway alot. Also bear in mind that these cars didnt come with ABS. So if you hit the brakes really hard, you will slide. These are all things I mostly got used to over the years. And it doesnt necessarily mean that its gonna be an unreliable POS. Plus Im a little nitpicky.
Yo Cj. I have a 64 mustang. . The old diff is bad so I wanna chage the whole rear diff(suspension) . I've seen your guys stock and it's way outa my budget . . Could you please send me a link of any cheap but reliable rear suspension you guys offer .. please would mean alot . Thanks
Hi, thanks for posting this video. I'm in the UK and thinking of buying my first classic car and there's only one for me, 1968 Ford Mustang GT Fastback 😍. I'm looking at a grade 3 due to budget but am a little confused on which is the most sort after engine. Could you list the most desirable to the least desired engine please. Also, is manual or auto the transmission to have? I'm guessing manual. Many thanks. If money were no object I'd have 2 cars in my garage, a Lexus LFA and the best 68 Mustang Fastback known to man 👍🏻✊🏻
The big block 4 speed cars will also command the most money with the base mode 6 cylinder 3 speed bringing the least. All the other options will fall somewhere in the middle
A girl should learn. If for nothing else so some mechanic does not take advantage of her later. I have taught all three of my girls. As to learning there are several ways you can learn if you have no one to teach you at home. One would be the boys in your school that are budding car guys. Another one would be to learn on your own. Library, youtube, ect.
is it posible to create a classic mustang car for custom build from scratch 100% not restomod, it should be all parts are new, is this posible? and how much will it cost me?
It is really tough to put an average price on that repair because of the variables. I would say 30-35 hours as a very rough estimate for full replacement.
On my 1966 Ford Mustang I had to rebuild my inline 6 top end I live in Phoenix Arizona my Top End blew out freeze plugs and head gasket so anyone know how to fix over heating issues mine has a problem when you turn the air conditioner on it over heats I replaced the thermostat, hoses added electric Fan rebuilt top end anybody have anything else that I could do to cool it down here in Arizona I live in Phoenix , Az it gets extremely hot in the summer please let me know if their any thing that I can do to cool it down thank you
@@T0YCHESTI would never buy a classic 50 60 year old car that lived in a snow /salt area of the country, RUST GALORE. Look for cars from Southern California, Southern Arizona, Nevada, basically dry climates, no snow, minimal rainfall. You'll pay more, but it will be well worth it and will still be cheaper than paying many thousands of dollars in rust repair.
Depends on your area. Here in Cali I see most coupes V8 original in 5-7/10 condition, running driving, tagged, clean title, minor reconditioning like brakes, carpet floor pans, maybe carb adjustments etc for 10-15k. Or you could get a non running one for 7-9k usually. The inline 6 will cost around 5-13k in good condition. Full restoration of those run up to about 20k maybe 25k but that’s pushing it.
Pretty stupid tip.. The C4 and C6 are reliable, affordable to rebuild and are a good option for many people. Anyone whose tip is predicated on an absolute should be ignored.
Doroteo Alvarez no. You should get a cheap on gas, newer regular affordable car. The only way to fix these cars up is with money so your main focus should be reliable transportation to and from work. THEN you won’t have emergencies that make you loose your job and income. It’s a marathon with these type of cars, you can’t just use it right away as a daily unless you buy one that’s already restored.
Get a shell, have a new crate motor, transmission, and internals put in. It will end up costing about the same as a medium quality stock....but will be more reliable. Dont worry about a fancy paintjob until later.
Step 1 ( you must have cash )
Step 2 ( pay )
Step 3 ( it’s yours )
I just want to cruise around town in a 69 Ford Mustang
@Cookie Butter Why ?
@@johnziegelbauer4999 faster, better sounding, it's customized how you like
Just bought an all original 65! Cant wait to cruise. Picking it up down south in a few weeks
Hahahahahhahahaha you said 69 lolololololololol😂😭😭😂😂😂😂😭😭😂😭😂😂😭😂😂😂😂😭😭😭😂😭😂😂😂your such a sussy little silly goose you
That's exactly what I do..
69 Mach 1,,,it's awesome 👍
.... and when checking for rust don't lie to yourself. If something looks suspect then it REALLY is
Unless it's free lol.
@@fortheloveofnoise there are no free mustangs on this world.
Second tip; don't pay top-dollar for a car with Pony seats, when the vin calls for Standard seats.
what do you mean?
@@IlDiLySm He means that the car should line up with the VIN number. That will tell what the car came with. If you pay a lot of a car with Pony Seats, but orginally the car didn't came with Pony Seats, it's not worth paying 'top-dollar'. ( I am not a expert, but I would like to help if it did. :)
@@IlDiLySm if the seller is asking like 20-30k for a mustang fastback, but the VIN number says it's a coupe (which is a 3rd of the price of a fastback) but it has a fast back hood instead of a coupe hood that means it's fake and isn't worth it's looks. Same goes with the pony seats if it says it doesn't have that trim but has the seats he probably bought them cheap and wants to make 5000 dollars off a replica, all in all everything has to be in line with the VIN, u can make a 69 look like a Boss but if the VIN doesn't say it has that trim than it's not worth 300k it's worth 20k but has like 10k worth of boss parts.
@@IlDiLySm It looks like my car 65 but mine had the pony interior in the VIN which was a package not just seats but wood rimmed steering wheel and 'fake wood' glove box and dials and door handles. This one looks, to me, a bit mix and match. It's not just about money I think aesthetically the 'ordinary' trim looks just as nice as the pony trim when it all matches which this one doesn't.
If it looks like this car in the video go over the car even more. Just cause it looks nice with paint on it doesn't mean it's not rusty under the paint.
I've wanted this car for a very long time. I'm 21 now and I'm going to start saving up CAN'T WAIT TO OWN THIS AMAZING CAR!!!
so did you get it yet?
In the early 90's just stopped at this big car dealership, walked in and looked around, and then I heard my name, softly, coming from the back of the store, eduardo, eduardo..., and then there she was, candyred 289 67 coupe, 4 speed top loader, we enjoyed each other for the next 10 years...
Had a 66 Fastback in the early 80's, didn't know what we really had we just loved racin!
I was so glad to hear you warn people about the cowl panels on these old mustangs. I bought a red 1965 coupe because it was almost identical to the one I had back in Vietnam times. Actually, my son went and bought it for me. Looked decent and ran o.k. but it had a leaking cowl panel. Silly me. I thought "no problem. Can't be that hard to replace that little panel. WRONG! Was/is a nightmare to replace cowl panels on these old mustangs. You have to take the front end of the car apart to properly replace these SOBs. And so many old mustangs for sale that look decent but the cowl is a "ticking time bomb" on them. The OP does warn toward the end of this video to get up under the dash and check near the heater for evidence of a leak. LISTEN TO HIM! And ask seller specifically if the cowl panel has been replaced before you buy one. Now I got my old mustang for a decent price so can't say I got "SKINNED" but I did not do enough research before buying. Of course the one I had back in Vietnam times didn't have a leaking cowl panel because it simply was not old enough to yet. Oh. Also. Be prepared to pay a boatload of gold if you want one of the old fastbacks. As stated, I did not get skinned on the one I bought but people are paying insane prices for all of the old fastback models. There is a guy named Dan Peterson who takes old rusted fastback models out of junkyards and completely re-manufactures them. But he has exceptional technical and mechanical skills. He has many posts on UA-cam. If you have the mechanical skills and watch his posts he will show you how to rebuild one those old mustangs from basic frame up. Enough.
I take a garden hose and nozzle and spray in every direction in the cowl through grill below windshield, if it doesn't leak I'm good to go!
Ahhhh, I'm not gonna care about the price as much. I just hope I can find one later on when I get a good job
I’m 16 got my 65 a couple months ago, I love it. I would rate it a 4
Where did you get it and for how much ?
How’s the maintenance?
@@Z28-h2y how much
I’m gonna get a 69 mustang because 69 is a very funny number
At 25, FINALLY bought a ‘67 K-code 289 hard top.
Condition is a 4 on the video’s scale, closer to a 3. Got it for 7 grand.
I just bought a very good 3+ daily driver for $8500. I won't have to put much into it, I don't race and I'm not going to win any shows. But I will have fun maintaining and driving it.
What year
@ oh yeah ..65
You got any tips for buying one?
@@alexyelado491 In retrospect, do your homework. Learn to identify codes that are cast onto engine parts. I found out my engine isn't a Mustang engine. It's a Falcon from the same year but it still runs. Expect to pay good money for a good mechanic.
@@Fotosaurus56 thanks!
My grandpa bought mine for my 21st birthday, the only rust it has is on the muffler which I removed, and we sanded down the rest. We bought the 1965 C-Code coupe that was modified for $2,500 back in '09, the reason why it sold so low was because it was brown, and it wasn't all original.
I want my 65 mustang. car is so simple and so sexy at the same time
Fastback or coupe
Thank you! This video (and the 20+ others I've watched) came in handy in catching my first 48 year old pony!
this is a good walk thru. I find the cowl is the hardest part to fix for rust since you have to pop the rivets.
I don't need a museum piece. I'll be happy with a driver 2 bbl small block and 3 speed stick. Maybe add a pair of glasspacks for that nice sound.
I hope one day I can own an old Mustang. Great Video!
Hope? YOU WILL OWN ONE!!
Id say mine was an overall 3 in the begining. Drivable and looked good but had some front end issues and a transmission leak.
Edit: all the little things have grown on me over the years. And I live with it as best I can. It still looks great from a distance with no structural rust damage. The choke doesnt really work tho so you just cant be in a hurry when the engine is cold. I think about getting a new carburetor that works better than the OEM one. And aside from the sound sometimes gets drowned out by the engine or wind noise at high speed because there's only one speaker in front, I love my aftermarket stereo. Bluetooth and Soundcloud functionality and the console looks original and the shop even put plastic in place to cover up the holes left over from the last owner.
Its been my dream car since I was 5. One day I will find a way to get one no matter how long it takes
Find it yet? Just bought a '66 convertible, straight 6 automatic. 53k miles Looking to flip.
Great video. I wish I had my 66 coupe and 66 fastback still im my garage
Sweet video. Buying mine this year hopefully
KarelessKota he died bro
@@stepzyt3889 i hope not
Yoooo
I honestly prefer the coupe.
Just bought my first 64.5 stang new floor pans trunk quarters needs paint and interior I have a efi 5.0 going in it. I can paint my color and do what I want. Excited
I want to get on for my little brother since he’s always wanted one
I don't care about the value and price I want just want cruise around with a classic car and enjoying every ride with a companion.
I love the stang. But I need a 67 XR-7 Cougar.
I'd say find one finished because you'll spend much more restoring one. my brother just picked up a 65 for 11k very nice condition.
It's really a waiting game, once in a while you will find a realistic priced Coupe or Fastback, most of the cars online you'll see with 50-300K all around, you have to ask if it's even original which most are not, Full custom and restored cars are nice (Elenore), but they're never going to be worth what they put into them EVER and that's why they've been for sale for EVER. I'm not paying $15000 for a rusted shell when I can buy a brand new one for 17K. If you want original great, but if you buy a totally rusted out car that requires 90% new metal then you will never get your money back and you just paid for a VIN number.
Some people like complete restores, if you have the tools required great, but you will always spend more restoring one then a finish car.
Fact, picked up a project cheap but was way over my ability to repair most myself. I’m not a body man and rust was in the worst areas. Sold it for a small profit to a body man and purchased a cherry 66 for $14k. I would have had that in the original in paint and body alone
Man its my dream car... I cant wait until I can get one
I was roaming on the offer up app this morning and I came across a 1965 Mustang for 9500 dollars in the pictures posted it looks like it will only need a new paint job, flooring, seats, new radio system, and a window tint all around
For one anyone wondering price range for V8 65-70 here in Cali depending on condition we’ll go with his driver most likely 4. Maybe some qualities of a 3. mine has very minimal surface rust, floors are good, trunk is good, doors are sanded and primered, rest of car is original white paint in 7/10 condition. Interior is all original with only the carpet needing reconditioning. Running engine with a small coolant leak not to big of a deal. Transmission shifts smooth it’s an auto. The options on mine were auto, power steering, disc brakes & it’s a C code 289. I bought it for 9k. Most I see selling in this condition now in my area 10-15k. Good luck hope this helped!
What’s your insta ? I want to buy a 67 but I want to ask some questions to those who already own one or similar
@@mikemarquez971Hi, I live in Southern California. I purchased a 68 Mustang coupe in 1977 in great shape. 289 automatic, power steering, Factory AC, white, with white vynil top.2 tone blue interior. Have owned it 47 years now, what questions do you have??
@@johnfranklin5277 Is it possible to daily drive it ? Whats a good price range to pay for one nowadays? Should I just go for it and buy it?
If your buying a 50 60 yrar old car buy from dry arid climates. My 68 Mustang that was purchased in Southern California , that I've owned since 1977 has no body rust like this car . The undercarriage has some slight surface rust here and there, but nothing that requires any intervention or concern. Its never seen snow, hell it hardly ever rains here. Even the cowl is still perfectly fine.
I just finished restoring my 65 a code couple sold 64 June
Had it since I was 16 years old , I got serious about repairs 2 years ago and hit it hard very expensive thing to do
Thank you. First time buyer. Learning so much this week.
Excellent video! Thank you for all the information, thought I knew a lot, but you clearly provided so much more! Cheers:))
Honestly I wouldn’t mind taking an old 65 through 68 fastback
And putting a 5.0 coyote in the thing
Would be a classic car with a modern heart
Thanks Bill. Great video!
Glad you liked it!
I’m looking at getting a 67 mustang as my first car , any tips I should know about like how it is to maintain and commuting?
Would it increase the value of any American muscle car if it had exotic provenance? Example - My dad used to own a Mustang 289 hardtop in Jamaica in the late 70s so would that history make it worth more?
Good Info! this one in video has the instrument panel with two large gauges on each end. Is that part of a true Pony Car?
Now I'M looking into how to determine if a 1965 to 1966 Mustang is really a pony car? I just acquired a 1965 coupe it is bare Vin # only has no Trim Tag, no seats, instrument panel, glove box cover, dash does have panel with dip (half circle) for the cluster with one large center 2 on each side
Great video! Only thing I would change is that I'd address the cowl first instead of waiting until 12 min into the video. The vast majority of those old 64-66 mustangs have some degree of rust in the cowl. And it's not a cheap or easy fix either.
Valid points. Good video, thanks.
Thanks so much for posting this !!
As I look, as much as I like the weird cars like the mustang II, there's just no aftermarket for something like that and I can't fabricate everything I need like sheet metal and parts so whatever I get needs a huge aftermarket. I can't afford to get a car that's had a full restoration, would start with a driver.
I’m just thinking about doing this very thing. This is excellent information. Thank you.
Hi. Is there any particular years to avoid? Im going to take a look at a 1966 ALL original. 289 Engine 30k original miles interior is original also. Basically a car never rebuilt. The person is asking 20K (price is very negotiable according to the ad). IF the car is in good condition what would be a reasonable offer? I have never owned a mustang but I have always dreamed having one. thanks
Jhonathan Rivera i am guessing it’s a coupe. 65 and 66 are basically the same car so nothing wrong with either one. An all original low mile car would easily be worth $20k if it’s in good shape, low mileage doesn’t always mean it’s a nice car so check for rust, signs of accidents, make sure they can document the mileage which can be tricky.
That was pretty damn good!
How can I buy this in India is there it is available or I've to import??
all i want is a 71 mach one...
how come you didnt take everything off the engine and paint the firewall and engine bay first?
I’m currently 21 and I really want to buy a 1969 Ford Mustang shelby!!! I want to cruise down the highway here in sunny California :)
Hey, I’m thinking of buying a 1969 mustang convertible with v8 and automatic transmission in it. I want to do around America road trip, would you consider it as a good idea? I don’t know if these mustangs are reliable enough and what parts are most likely to fail. I’m looking at 2/3 level of restoration.
I have done long road trips in my stock 1965 V8 3 speed auto Mustang before. I wouldnt really reccomend it without an overdrive. I do 3000 rpm to go 70 mph. It can be done, sure. You'll just need to stop more often for fuel. And I had some bad experiences with the C4 leaking badly on the way once but it didnt do that every time I went on 4 hour long highway drives so dont base reliability on that tidbit I guess.
If you want to travel all over the US all the time I would reccomend you install a Monster Transmission AOD or Tremmec T5Z in it. It will help you to keep up with the flow of traffick without having to stay at higher rpms.
Also highway driving is equivalent to 10 percent of city driving as far as wear is concerned.
In my experience, the most likely thing to fail on the (and I have a 2bbl v8) engine is the points if it still has points. But those are cheap and relatively easy to swap out if you have the tools. The OEM Ford carburators also I was told were never that great. I still have one on mine and its fickle. Probably going bad. If it has drum brakes I would reccomend switching to discs as drums will overheat after just one or two hard stops and not work until they cool down if you wanna drive on the highway alot. Also bear in mind that these cars didnt come with ABS. So if you hit the brakes really hard, you will slide. These are all things I mostly got used to over the years. And it doesnt necessarily mean that its gonna be an unreliable POS.
Plus Im a little nitpicky.
@@DAN007thefoxx1 very interesting.
What do you mean you wouldn't recommend it without an overdrive
I'm a newbie can you please explain?
Thank you
Great video!
Yo Cj. I have a 64 mustang. . The old diff is bad so I wanna chage the whole rear diff(suspension) . I've seen your guys stock and it's way outa my budget . . Could you please send me a link of any cheap but reliable rear suspension you guys offer .. please would mean alot . Thanks
Thanks you so much for this
i have a 65 gt fastback a code 4 speed stored 38 years . whats it worth now?
Hi, thanks for posting this video. I'm in the UK and thinking of buying my first classic car and there's only one for me, 1968 Ford Mustang GT Fastback 😍. I'm looking at a grade 3 due to budget but am a little confused on which is the most sort after engine. Could you list the most desirable to the least desired engine please. Also, is manual or auto the transmission to have? I'm guessing manual. Many thanks. If money were no object I'd have 2 cars in my garage, a Lexus LFA and the best 68 Mustang Fastback known to man 👍🏻✊🏻
The big block 4 speed cars will also command the most money with the base mode 6 cylinder 3 speed bringing the least. All the other options will fall somewhere in the middle
@@cjponyparts how much does a body with doors cost
Thank you!!!
I’m a 13 year old girl so I have absolutely no idea what you were talking about I need some lessons
girls can (and should) be into cars
A girl should learn. If for nothing else so some mechanic does not take advantage of her later. I have taught all three of my girls.
As to learning there are several ways you can learn if you have no one to teach you at home. One would be the boys in your school that are budding car guys. Another one would be to learn on your own. Library, youtube, ect.
67 fastback, gotta go to school first
is it posible to create a classic mustang car for custom build from scratch 100% not restomod, it should be all parts are new, is this posible? and how much will it cost me?
I want a ‘65 coupe soooooo bad
The one in the video is not a factory pony interior
I want Mustang 68 coupé manual transmition 4speed + R, V8 or V6 with ACC disc brakes with ABS and EFI.
And maybe automatic windows.
No v6. Its an in-line 6
I just wish there was a place that would finance for us working stiffs. Oh well.
How much is it selling for now!?
Thanks for the tips!! In roughly 8 months I’ll get me a 60’s mustang
How much would your average front frame rail cost to have repaired ?
It is really tough to put an average price on that repair because of the variables. I would say 30-35 hours as a very rough estimate for full replacement.
Nice work
Is the 72 grande collectible?
Certain ppl love em and certain ppl hate em
On my 1966 Ford Mustang I had to rebuild my inline 6 top end I live in Phoenix Arizona my Top End blew out freeze plugs and head gasket so anyone know how to fix over heating issues mine has a problem when you turn the air conditioner on it over heats I replaced the thermostat, hoses added electric Fan rebuilt top end anybody have anything else that I could do to cool it down here in Arizona I live in Phoenix , Az it gets extremely hot in the summer please let me know if their any thing that I can do to cool it down thank you
Very interesting and informative, thanks for this
great video
Is it true that you can swap the rear axle of a explorer with a 68 mustang?
1967 fastback
Saving up for a Mustang II
joeyconservative is this a joke
I just dont know where to look.
I bought a 1966 mustang and everything was great then the reverse stop working 😑😑
How much did it cost to get it fixed?
Hi
Can i get your catalog pls.
You got mine like subscription and bell too
Me Encantan los Autos - Deversas Marcas.. Ford es Muy Buena Marca con Muchos Modelos , Camionetas , 4 x 4 y Para Hobby y Jugar el Mustang la Lleva .
Helpful, clear video thanks for posting it. Is it realistic to get an every day driver for the 20,000 range?
If u come to the North East where I live u can find 67-69 for 10k-15k running fastbacks.
Tbh those are the best years
Im looking for a 67 fastback project, for like 2k-3k and put a coyote 5.0, and slowly put money into it.
Regular Old Plumbus where did u find those fastbacks what website
@@T0YCHESTI would never buy a classic 50 60 year old car that lived in a snow /salt area of the country, RUST GALORE. Look for cars from Southern California, Southern Arizona, Nevada, basically dry climates, no snow, minimal rainfall. You'll pay more, but it will be well worth it and will still be cheaper than paying many thousands of dollars in rust repair.
Interesting
Im 17 and honestly i love this car and i want to buy a mustang preferably 66-68, how much do you think i would have to spend realistically?
Above 60k
Under 20k will get you in the game.
Depends on your area. Here in Cali I see most coupes V8 original in 5-7/10 condition, running driving, tagged, clean title, minor reconditioning like brakes, carpet floor pans, maybe carb adjustments etc for 10-15k. Or you could get a non running one for 7-9k usually. The inline 6 will cost around 5-13k in good condition. Full restoration of those run up to about 20k maybe 25k but that’s pushing it.
nice
Damn I'm fixing a 6 parta car lol no title nothing nada lol
first tip... build your own.
I am pretty sure you could restore a Model T in a couple of weeks though....lol.
In case anyone doesn't know it these cars in the late 60s where rusting coming of the line in Detroit
Can you help me please
I want 1967 289
How much mustang will 8k get me? Could I afford a driving convertible manual?
Why am I watching this ? I'll never own my dream car. 69 fastback.
First tip don't buy an automatic
Bret.Stang4.6 it aways can be changed to a manual
if you want to spend the money on a new transmission.
Pretty stupid tip.. The C4 and C6 are reliable, affordable to rebuild and are a good option for many people. Anyone whose tip is predicated on an absolute should be ignored.
Yeah its best to not use a stock transmission for alot of highway driving. Im considering a T5 conversion since I kinda want a manual and overdrive
Why?
How do you deal with the danger of those Ford drop-in gas tanks in '64-'70 Mustangs that gave Pintos such a bad name?
dont get hit
Hey! Don’t hate pintos lol. I Drive a 74 pinto with a 67 mustang engine ‘289’.
i think some people put a firewall behind the rear seat
I’m 13 and I have a 66
How tf
Should a 67 coupe mustang be my first car. Is it a good idea?is it a money pit? Are they reliable?
Doroteo Alvarez no. You should get a cheap on gas, newer regular affordable car. The only way to fix these cars up is with money so your main focus should be reliable transportation to and from work. THEN you won’t have emergencies that make you loose your job and income. It’s a marathon with these type of cars, you can’t just use it right away as a daily unless you buy one that’s already restored.
Get a shell, have a new crate motor, transmission, and internals put in. It will end up costing about the same as a medium quality stock....but will be more reliable. Dont worry about a fancy paintjob until later.
I Just want air conditioning 🤣
just never go full mustang and crash into a crowd