Yes could have but would it have saved much time ? Again I could have used a lever valve, but the gate valve is free flowing and probably will never be turned off again, the salamander pump comes with isolating valves on the flexi connectors, just in case it needs removing.
It’s best to leave cylinder filled drain a pint of water then unscrew flange then drain 5 litres once cracked and then install a flange stops cracking the cylinder
![SHOWER PUMP INSTALLATION MISTAKES [how to fit a power shower like a pro]](/img/n.gif)
Is the Pump meant to be that loud when operating??
They are annoyingly loud yes.
So you don't need the s-flange if the pump is on the floor next to the hot water tank, any air would go up the expansion pipe
That’s correct, but Salamander said to have a full guarantee on the replacement the S Flange would have to be fitted.
I hope you remembered to flush the pipe through to remove any residual flux as that can damage the pump.
Did you use the 28 into 22m reducing kit for the vent take off?
Yes I did, it comes with the kit.
Could you have bunged the cold water tank then drained the cylinder. Surprised you didn't use a lever valve tbh.
Yes could have but would it have saved much time ? Again I could have used a lever valve, but the gate valve is free flowing and probably will never be turned off again, the salamander pump comes with isolating valves on the flexi connectors, just in case it needs removing.
@@geofus Thanks for the reply. Nice vid all the same
It’s best to leave cylinder filled drain a pint of water then unscrew flange then drain 5 litres once cracked and then install a flange stops cracking the cylinder
When the pump sits above the cylinder you need to fit an anti gravity loop, which you haven't done! Or dare say you know what one is!!