I did the same. You can pick up greenhouse blowers that move a ton of air- way more than a typical exhaust fan and for half the price. Use 6” hose and standard house vent mounted in the ceiling
Please, PLEASE put in an exhaust fan. You will thank yourselves when you don't have to open the door as much this winter. Better do it before you get to much finishing done.
I was gonna say the same thing lol. And the two two-by-fours upstairs going side-to-side might have been to help the Top wooden structure from shifting from side to side
@@iamthetinkerman They build Go Karts and Mini Bikes. Not frame houses. I'm going to give them a pass on the shimming and blocking. Should make a good next video.
I am going to be so happy when you guys hit 1 million subscribers. Also the 2x4 you took down was go support the building from hurricane force winds. (Someone else commented this I am just spreading it to make sure you guys see it).
@@CarsandCameras - if you're going to put in fold-down attic stairs, look into the metal ones, they can be had in at least 2 widths. MUCH better than wood. But if you do, they're not rated for big weight, so no carrying stuff up and down the stairs - you need a winch/B&T that can be mounted over the opening to lift things up there. Make sure to OVER-engineer the support for it.
Guys--absolutely love your channel. I thought I'd throw my 2 cents in here to help out. I'm a licensed North Carolina Professional Engineer, and I have to agree with several of the comments I've seen about the beam. A lot of it comes down to allowable deflection (bending) and desire deflection, and with your use of a trolley shifting around a point load could cause further complications. Keep in mind that deflection is the result of the square of the length of the beam. Thus, if you cut the effective length in half (by using a post, etc.) you cut down the deflection by a factor of four. I would also consider a more formidable way of affixing the beam on the ends. I've seen suggestions from through-bolting to epoxy, and one mention of welding a vertical steel beam on both ends and bolting it to the floor. All of these would be considerably better than tapcons. If you are going to support it on the ends with wood, keep the cross-sectional area of the wood post as large as possible to distribute the load of the beam--think a 6x6 post. Resting it on the wall would be ideal, but you'd need the block to be grout filled with a footer underneath. I just want to make sure you guys are able to keep making great videos for a long time to come!
Guys you really should get 2 alloy columns to span the center of that I-beam . At least 1 but 2would be better. Some folks call them screw Jack's. Keep up the good work fellas
This, you can bolt it on the I-beam and meet in the top of the roof. Making a huge triangle. In the center of it another I-beam on wich you bolt a hoist.
That lateral support that John removed in the attic could bite you guys in the ass as that is a structural support that keeps the roof from laying over sideways say in high winds or earthquake ! Much love to you guys !
I've done a little slab jacking and sometimes we'll just use harbour freight bottle jacks. Get them all set in place and burry them in concrete. You can cut or bore a hole in the slab and dig out enough space for a jack and then fill it. If you have a lot of surface area, rent a stinger/concrete vibrator to help it flow into all of the gaps. Glad you guys have your own space!
The new property/HQ is coming together very nicely,keep up the good work,she's looking good and the place will be finished in no time at this pace. It must be a hard transition from the nice garage at Johns parents house to basically an old shack in the woods but,it's getting together slowly but surely. I'm sure you guys enjoy having a space that's all yours where you make the rules. There's lots of space to actually give the machines full throttle and open up for some fun rides,plus there are no neighbors around to complain about the carts/bikes ripping around while you're trying to have fun. It's the perfect place to ride and make as much noise as y'all want by the looks of it.
If you want to make the I Beam stronger, you can box the sides in with steel welded to the beam. This may interfere with your lifting trolley but you can possibly box certain areas of the beam, leaving space for a trolley. Also if you install some cross ties in the attic from rafter to rafter, it will help with the roof load. Thanks for all you do, enjoy watching your vids
Boxing in the beam is a lot of work and unless your welding is perfectly balanced it will distort and warp the beam . Some of the know it all engineers at work make us do it at work becomes a major to straighten!
Or at the very least some steel post Jacks. (They don't even have to be in the middle. If they want to go without jacks, they have to get a taller beam
@@lawrencep7897 I agree 100%. If they add a load to the middle of the I-beam it will flex and the floor, and beam will be coming down. This honestly scares the crap out of me seeing what they did. Guys please talk to someone you know( a friend maybe) in the construction trade about your beam install.
You need to put a steel post about halfway down that I beam, you know what I mean?, like a basement post. And those posts are generally adjustable, the top part of it screws in and out, or up and down.
I know it would suck having a post in the middle of the floor but you really need to put an adjustable pipe stand in the middle of that steel beam to take the sag out of it, especially if you are going to use a trolley and hoist on it. Looks like fun.
Replace the lateral support in the attic directly to the underside of the rafters at an angle from the wall/ceiling peak to the floor joists about midway across your span and that 20 foot span with a 3/8 I beam needs a center post. Just an engineers perspective.
Hey guys, been a huge fan of yours for a long time and really happy to see you get your new shop! It's all about learning and trying new stuff and having fun! As an architect and builder there are things that I would have done differently, but it's all fine and for a shop it (as you guys say) will be fine. I'd say those diagonals upstairs were for lateral resistance. They don't really use them anymore because the osb/plywood on the roof creates a diaphragm that the old 1x8 boards didn't. If you want to keep them out I'd say add osb to the bottom of the roof rafter on one end of the roof from the floor up to the peak with nails at 12 inch max spacing (osb oriented horizontally so it reaches 8feetvfrom end of the shed). If you ever feel it's too bouncy with the beam you can weld a "WT" (T shape) to the bottom of your beam. It's like half an I beam or "WF" like you put in but you would still be able to use you beam hoist. Also that post you put in the middle of the attic only added more roof load to the new beam and reduced it's capacity even more, so I'd take that out unless the roof needs it.
suggestion: if you guys are not going to get central air in your shop, install a large attic fan to exhaust the hot air upstairs and create a cool draft downstairs. should do this while you have the room to work. summers with high humidity can be a killer. also paint your inside walls white. that will brighten up your work area immensely and make for better videos.
Suggestion: Ladder to the attic. Get one of those attic door like in the hallway of houses where you can fold up the ladder and just close it up. MORE FLOOR SPACE!! YAAAAAAAAAA!
Put vertical posts around existing shelving to the joists, use that area to store the heavier parts upstairs. keep a post that you can set under I beam when hoisting. Also exhaust fan makes huge difference.
I got the same impression. Maybe they could build a truss-like structure in the attic, to take some load off it. like this : | \ | \ | / | / | That would also take care of wind loading, which I think was the purpose of those angled 2x4s.
Im an ex ironworker and most structural jobs i worked were supported by a beam every 20 feet across, im sure one support in the middle will take the tension, flexion, and compression completely out of it
I'm so proud of you guy's. I'd bet you guy's never new this could happen , But I had an idea you guy's would make it . I'd say anyone from 10 to 60 is going to love your content . I'm 61 and still remember that 5 HP briggs mini bike I had . My two grandchildren 10 & 12 just moved in and I got a gocart for them . I plan on showing them how it goes together and work's . John how about keeping Issac from killing his self.God Bless and stay safe.
John and Isaac - Love your normal content, but really enjoy working through the shop upgrades and build out as well. Keep those coming. It's looking good!
Hey John that is called a Mandage. In the paint shop they used to pour paint thinner on a cut and wrap it in a shop towel and tape it up with masking tape. You guy are doing great!
The gap between the beam and floor joists was the metal beam flexing or sagging. You really should put a jack post in the center of the I beam. Good luck guys, stay safe and keep em coming!
Nice upgrade to the shop. The bender and angle drill will open the doors to Ike's mind and both of y'all welding experience. Good job on the building upgrades too.
You might want to look into securing the 8x8 posts at the base with a bracket. You can drill and epoxy bolts into the concrete floor. I wouldn't trust the back wall to have a cell filled with concrete, so securing it to the slab is a better bet.
nice work. the diagonal brace at 6:28 is for wind load on the gable ends. gable height is low but a 2x4 brace on edge at each end of the building would help some when the wind blows hard.
Because of the low ceilings and limited space, I'd do a fume ventilation hood on the bottom floor that vents directly outside for welding and painting fumes as well as running engines indoors.
Maybe get a 2 part spray foam insulation kit from a hardware store to seal and insulate the bottom floor ceiling. Check with a foundation or mud jacking business to see if they can help with your slab.
Foil backed foam insulation sheets between the studs will really do the job,plus make it Brighter without lights everywhere.-Yes, rolled insulation is cheaper and comes with foil too.I just figured vibrations from tools and motors revving would shake fibers into dust...
Some insulation and a vent fan would be really good to keep the heat low in the summer. On another note, maybe a small tractor will be useful on the property. Could be used to keep the grass down as well as make some cool tracks for the karts and bikes. Just a thought. This place is looking awesome guys!
You might also want to consider moving the attic stairs. You SAID you're not planning on having a lot of weight up there, but if you do put heavy stuff up there, you want it out near the walls. Move the stairs next to the I-beam - it will let you build a proper frame for them, and get the widest possible. It will keep you from putting heavy stuff in the middle of the floor. It will put the stairs down on the floor where you're most likely to have clear space for them to land. It's a good time to upgrade them to metal stairs too. AND if you build proper B&T framing into the roof trusses, it will let you move stuff around with your I-beam B&T, move it to the stair opening, then only have to shift it a bit to lift it upstairs. Not necessarily for heavy stuff, but for bulky too. You said you'd probably only put 500 lbs or so up there - I can virtually GUARANTEE that if you start moving stuff up there to store, you'll have much more than that in no time without even noticing it. A hanging scale on the B&T would let you verify weights as you haul up there, but honestly, you're probably going to end up sistering in 2x4/6s or laminates on most of the roof trusses to stiffen/strengthen sooner or later, so you might as well look into the cost now. Getting it done BEFORE you hang all sorts of crap from the trusses (including new wiring) is the easiest route.
Good shit. Nice tube bender combo. As far as the I beam issue goes, I would have fixed the walls first, got a longer I beam and placed it on top of the wall while moving the attic floor up 6". Would have given you more head space down in the shop. Especially for that tube bender. But now you've put the weight of the roof on one end of a cracking and sagging slab with that wood beam supporting the steel beam.
Need to replace the 2 wooden post with steel, and ad angled braces at each end. A third post outside of staircase would be a really good idea as well as the braces
You really do need those gable supports. Tapcons will work for a while but you need something stronger than wood under the I-Beam. Definitely look into a levelling service. Will do a good job that will likely last your lifetime. I grew up with engineering, my dad was a civil engineer and I have inspected many sites, working with him directly. I love your channel and want you to succeed, don't want you getting hurt.
Hey guys, if you sister those joists at 1/4 the distance it will really help stiffen up that loft. Joist twisting is the most common reason for large floor deflection. You can also drill into the concrete and pump spray foam into any cavities to lift smaller cracked sections of slab.
Yes, steel bends. When you lift heavy materials with your I beam hoist please add posts(s) where needed. You guys ever hear of a thing called a "bandana" or even just an old kitchen towel works fine. SECURITY and don't forget about the window upstairs, they can climb onto the roof and smash their way in. Hungry tigers work well too.
Around here they have "Mud Jacking", they drill a hole in the floor and inject concrete to raise slabs, sidewalks and foundations. It works really works good!
As an HVAC Tech putting up OSB will help stabilize the floor and tighten it up some but it has almost no R Value. You should consider getting some High density foam insulation and putting over it or what I would do is buy fiberglass bats of insulation and put the up on the underside. It will do way more for keeping the building comfortable and for a building that size would not cost that much.
You should put an exhaust fan in the attic window with a switch down stairs. Good for venting fumes and circulating air in summer.
That was the best thing I did in my garage.
What a damn good idea!!
Especially after chili night.
yes do it
I did the same. You can pick up greenhouse blowers that move a ton of air- way more than a typical exhaust fan and for half the price. Use 6” hose and standard house vent mounted in the ceiling
It's coming together! Just need a new roof, foundation fix, and a coat of paint and it'll be mint!
CarsandCameras nice!
Most people build a shed from the ground up first one I saw built from the inside out
great video you need to continu it
Please, PLEASE put in an exhaust fan. You will thank yourselves when you don't have to open the door as much this winter. Better do it before you get to much finishing done.
I tink its the first time i see you work with wood
Yes, more of this kind of content.
Stay safe.
You should install shims between the cross beams and the I beam, that would alleviate a lot of the moovement
I was gonna say the same thing lol. And the two two-by-fours upstairs going side-to-side might have been to help the Top wooden structure from shifting from side to side
I couldn't believe they didn't do that!
@@iamthetinkerman They build Go Karts and Mini Bikes. Not frame houses. I'm going to give them a pass on the shimming and blocking. Should make a good next video.
U must be that framing cow I saw on the roof last week
And add some stiffeners in the web of the beam. I would have used a wide flange beam instead of an I beam for that long of a span.
It would be a good idea to put steel support at the ends of the beam and weld into place
Add a plate at the bottom and bolt to the floor
Those diagonal posts in the attic on both ends were wind braces, I would put those back up. Just sayin.
After the roof gets sheathing is applied not sure those diagonal braces are doing much
It will fold like a cheap towel
true its a old building so you dont know do it be up after next strom
@@thenglishannel But given the state of the foundation, and how relatively unstable the rest of the building is, every little bit of bracing helps!
I’d say the whole building needs a wind brace the foundation will blow over before the roof does
You should reach out to a foundation leveling service. That can inject foam under your concrete slab in level your building. Cheaper than you think.
6:30 that is a cross brace. To keep your building from toppling over. You kinda need that.
Understated comment right here.
such a low slope roof, the attic gables are very low. i doubt it will topple over
that i beam is definately not big enouph for this building
It's a brace for wind load. Yes they absolutely need that
Gable brace, that needs to be there
I am going to be so happy when you guys hit 1 million subscribers. Also the 2x4 you took down was go support the building from hurricane force winds. (Someone else commented this I am just spreading it to make sure you guys see it).
Add at least 1 post at 1/3rd distance on stair side. The beam will sag with time otherwise, it’s just cheap insurance
Not a bad idea, thanks
@@CarsandCameras - if you're going to put in fold-down attic stairs, look into the metal ones, they can be had in at least 2 widths. MUCH better than wood.
But if you do, they're not rated for big weight, so no carrying stuff up and down the stairs - you need a winch/B&T that can be mounted over the opening to lift things up there. Make sure to OVER-engineer the support for it.
Guys--absolutely love your channel. I thought I'd throw my 2 cents in here to help out. I'm a licensed North Carolina Professional Engineer, and I have to agree with several of the comments I've seen about the beam. A lot of it comes down to allowable deflection (bending) and desire deflection, and with your use of a trolley shifting around a point load could cause further complications. Keep in mind that deflection is the result of the square of the length of the beam. Thus, if you cut the effective length in half (by using a post, etc.) you cut down the deflection by a factor of four. I would also consider a more formidable way of affixing the beam on the ends. I've seen suggestions from through-bolting to epoxy, and one mention of welding a vertical steel beam on both ends and bolting it to the floor. All of these would be considerably better than tapcons. If you are going to support it on the ends with wood, keep the cross-sectional area of the wood post as large as possible to distribute the load of the beam--think a 6x6 post. Resting it on the wall would be ideal, but you'd need the block to be grout filled with a footer underneath. I just want to make sure you guys are able to keep making great videos for a long time to come!
Cement foam injection raises driveways, you could use that for the foundation and it could work.
It looks like a fun shelter in place, place with plenty of fun projects.
Oh yes, I definitely want to see more Shop upgrades 😋
Exhaust fan, y'all. Praise the Lord, son! Y'all are gettin' her done.
That takes the fun out of it though.... ;-)
Guys you really should get 2 alloy columns to span the center of that I-beam . At least 1 but 2would be better. Some folks call them screw Jack's. Keep up the good work fellas
You need to install a hoist in the attic to lift engines and stuff to the second floor for storage
Michael Kalt I don't think they work with big motors, so they could just carry them up.
This, you can bolt it on the I-beam and meet in the top of the roof. Making a huge triangle. In the center of it another I-beam on wich you bolt a hoist.
@@matthewdemaster2045 I wouldn't want to carry too many 60+lbs items up or down a ladder.
The I beam can barely support its own weight across the span. You start lifting in the middle you will pull it of the end pillars as it bows.
Brilliant idea^
That lateral support that John removed in the attic could bite you guys in the ass as that is a structural support that keeps the roof from laying over sideways say in high winds or earthquake ! Much love to you guys !
Now you have enough wood to make a wood go cart!
Now that would be a video. Go WAAAYYYYY back. I remember my first scrap cart. Some of the most fun you could have pre internet.
yeah with rope steering. and some vertical lawnmower engine and a belt
I would suggest maybe one or two more beams to spread out that load. At least one more
Cars and cameras, you break it we fix it. From homes to motors we do it all. (Not insured or certified) it’ll be fine.
I've done a little slab jacking and sometimes we'll just use harbour freight bottle jacks. Get them all set in place and burry them in concrete. You can cut or bore a hole in the slab and dig out enough space for a jack and then fill it. If you have a lot of surface area, rent a stinger/concrete vibrator to help it flow into all of the gaps. Glad you guys have your own space!
The new property/HQ is coming together very nicely,keep up the good work,she's looking good and the place will be finished in no time at this pace. It must be a hard transition from the nice garage at Johns parents house to basically an old shack in the woods but,it's getting together slowly but surely. I'm sure you guys enjoy having a space that's all yours where you make the rules. There's lots of space to actually give the machines full throttle and open up for some fun rides,plus there are no neighbors around to complain about the carts/bikes ripping around while you're trying to have fun. It's the perfect place to ride and make as much noise as y'all want by the looks of it.
If you want to make the I Beam stronger, you can box the sides in with steel welded to the beam. This may interfere with your lifting trolley but you can possibly box certain areas of the beam, leaving space for a trolley. Also if you install some cross ties in the attic from rafter to rafter, it will help with the roof load. Thanks for all you do, enjoy watching your vids
Great idea: build a box beam. But make sure to jack the center up with a touch of a crown first, then it should sag to level in the end
If they want to make it stronger they should mount it the correct way. On top on the foundation walls not resting on some flimsy 4x4
Boxing in the beam is a lot of work and unless your welding is perfectly balanced it will distort and warp the beam . Some of the know it all engineers at work make us do it at work becomes a major to straighten!
I applaud the effort but that beam needs to be about twice as big for that load and span....
Or add a post in the middle
Jerry Bungard there not strictly engineers so let’s see how this goes.
But it's definitely an upgrade from a 2x6 on the flat. It's a garage and no one is doing jumping jacks upstairs so I'm sure "It'll be fine".
Or at the very least some steel post Jacks. (They don't even have to be in the middle. If they want to go without jacks, they have to get a taller beam
@@lawrencep7897 I agree 100%. If they add a load to the middle of the I-beam it will flex and the floor, and beam will be coming down. This honestly scares the crap out of me seeing what they did.
Guys please talk to someone you know( a friend maybe) in the construction trade about your beam install.
That pipe bender is sick!!
I got so nervous when y’all where mocking out those support beams!
That flinch at 4:20 was epic.
You need to put a steel post about halfway down that I beam, you know what I mean?, like a basement post. And those posts are generally adjustable, the top part of it screws in and out, or up and down.
I know it would suck having a post in the middle of the floor but you really need to put an adjustable pipe stand in the middle of that steel beam to take the sag out of it, especially if you are going to use a trolley and hoist on it. Looks like fun.
Replace the lateral support in the attic directly to the underside of the rafters at an angle from the wall/ceiling peak to the floor joists about midway across your span and that 20 foot span with a 3/8 I beam needs a center post. Just an engineers perspective.
I definitely like the use of the 360 cam like this with the wide angle time lapses and other wide angle clips👍🏻
Good, that I beam is going to be really important for strength when you have to deal with the sagging wall and window.
Hey guys, been a huge fan of yours for a long time and really happy to see you get your new shop! It's all about learning and trying new stuff and having fun! As an architect and builder there are things that I would have done differently, but it's all fine and for a shop it (as you guys say) will be fine. I'd say those diagonals upstairs were for lateral resistance. They don't really use them anymore because the osb/plywood on the roof creates a diaphragm that the old 1x8 boards didn't. If you want to keep them out I'd say add osb to the bottom of the roof rafter on one end of the roof from the floor up to the peak with nails at 12 inch max spacing (osb oriented horizontally so it reaches 8feetvfrom end of the shed). If you ever feel it's too bouncy with the beam you can weld a "WT" (T shape) to the bottom of your beam. It's like half an I beam or "WF" like you put in but you would still be able to use you beam hoist. Also that post you put in the middle of the attic only added more roof load to the new beam and reduced it's capacity even more, so I'd take that out unless the roof needs it.
you need at least one adjustable jack post under the I-beam. They run $70 - $90 at Lowes
Agreed. They could have used it to take the weight of the structure before knocking out the 4x4s. Risky business suddenly loading the beam like that.
Yes!!! I would love to see the progress you guys make on this build and I bet a lot of other people would to KEEP US UPDATED👍
Looking good!
Thanks for the shop upgrade stuff please do more...
suggestion: if you guys are not going to get central air in your shop, install a large attic fan to exhaust the hot air upstairs and create a cool draft downstairs. should do this while you have the room to work. summers with high humidity can be a killer. also paint your inside walls white. that will brighten up your work area immensely and make for better videos.
Okay gotta admit the 360 cam did really good on the I beam at 2:10. At least I think that was the 360 cam
Blue screws are tapcons. Pre-drill holes in wood and block and use an impact driver to secure. Stay safe.
Love the videos!! Hopefully I can get big enough to get a shop of my own one day! Keep grinding!!
I like watching the shop rehab. I would appreciate you keep filming this series !
Suggestion:
Ladder to the attic. Get one of those attic door like in the hallway of houses where you can fold up the ladder and just close it up.
MORE FLOOR SPACE!! YAAAAAAAAAA!
Put vertical posts around existing shelving to the joists, use that area to store the heavier parts upstairs. keep a post that you can set under I beam when hoisting. Also exhaust fan makes huge difference.
From my personal experience, it seems like that steel i beam is a little under rated for that span, or it needs a support member.
I got the same impression. Maybe they could build a truss-like structure in the attic, to take some load off it.
like this : | \ | \ | / | / |
That would also take care of wind loading, which I think was the purpose of those angled 2x4s.
I commented above, that beam is only good for about 14 feet free span
Internet experts, facepalm.
Im an ex ironworker and most structural jobs i worked were supported by a beam every 20 feet across, im sure one support in the middle will take the tension, flexion, and compression completely out of it
Yes, more of this! Love the regular go-kart related stuff but it’s a nice change of pace. Keep up the awesome work and stay safe guys!
Love the new place guys, keep up the good work!
I'm so proud of you guy's. I'd bet you guy's never new this could happen , But I had an idea you guy's would make it . I'd say anyone from 10 to 60 is going to love your content . I'm 61 and still remember that 5 HP briggs mini bike I had . My two grandchildren 10 & 12 just moved in and I got a gocart for them . I plan on showing them how it goes together and work's . John how about keeping Issac from killing his self.God Bless and stay safe.
John and Isaac - Love your normal content, but really enjoy working through the shop upgrades and build out as well. Keep those coming. It's looking good!
Hey John that is called a Mandage. In the paint shop they used to pour paint thinner on a cut and wrap it in a shop towel and tape it up with masking tape. You guy are doing great!
The gap between the beam and floor joists was the metal beam flexing or sagging. You really should put a jack post in the center of the I beam. Good luck guys, stay safe and keep em coming!
Nice upgrade to the shop. The bender and angle drill will open the doors to Ike's mind and both of y'all welding experience. Good job on the building upgrades too.
Yeah I'd be swapping those wood uprights for I-beams too. Weld to to cross member and Cement into floor.
You might want to look into securing the 8x8 posts at the base with a bracket. You can drill and epoxy bolts into the concrete floor. I wouldn't trust the back wall to have a cell filled with concrete, so securing it to the slab is a better bet.
Looking good guys can't wait to what's next with the projects and u all's new shop
R u all planning on making a track for the fast fast low go-karts like u had at ur mom and dad's house
Thanks, guys its coming together. Can't wait to see what you guys do with that K 100.
nice work. the diagonal brace at 6:28 is for wind load on the gable ends. gable height is low but a 2x4 brace on edge at each end of the building would help some when the wind blows hard.
Because of the low ceilings and limited space, I'd do a fume ventilation hood on the bottom floor that vents directly outside for welding and painting fumes as well as running engines indoors.
I'm so happy for you guys, congrats on the new shop! cant wait to see what comes out of it
For hvac order a mini split ac/heat system. Super affordable and very efficient. Nice and quiet for filming.
Make more videos of you guys fixing the shop
This shop's gonna be amazing . A true story of your life.
I really like the shop upgrades, please show the rest of the process!
Maybe get a 2 part spray foam insulation kit from a hardware store to seal and insulate the bottom floor ceiling. Check with a foundation or mud jacking business to see if they can help with your slab.
Shop build for sure. It's all part of the journey.
Foil backed foam insulation sheets between the studs will really do the job,plus make it Brighter without lights everywhere.-Yes, rolled insulation is cheaper and comes with foil too.I just figured vibrations from tools and motors revving would shake fibers into dust...
I definitely want to see more shop renovations and upgrade videos.
Yes more shop vids. Cool reno of a neat old space.
Like the shop work, keep that going!
More vids of shop being built please!
Some insulation and a vent fan would be really good to keep the heat low in the summer. On another note, maybe a small tractor will be useful on the property. Could be used to keep the grass down as well as make some cool tracks for the karts and bikes. Just a thought. This place is looking awesome guys!
Yes shop upgrades ! Also update on your truck John
Love seeing a mix of regular videos and shop and land upgrades
Awesome seeing the new shop come together. Keep up the good work.
Rogue is awesome. Local business to me. Good group of people. Their Instagram is usually good stuff.
You might also want to consider moving the attic stairs. You SAID you're not planning on having a lot of weight up there, but if you do put heavy stuff up there, you want it out near the walls. Move the stairs next to the I-beam - it will let you build a proper frame for them, and get the widest possible. It will keep you from putting heavy stuff in the middle of the floor. It will put the stairs down on the floor where you're most likely to have clear space for them to land. It's a good time to upgrade them to metal stairs too.
AND if you build proper B&T framing into the roof trusses, it will let you move stuff around with your I-beam B&T, move it to the stair opening, then only have to shift it a bit to lift it upstairs. Not necessarily for heavy stuff, but for bulky too.
You said you'd probably only put 500 lbs or so up there - I can virtually GUARANTEE that if you start moving stuff up there to store, you'll have much more than that in no time without even noticing it. A hanging scale on the B&T would let you verify weights as you haul up there, but honestly, you're probably going to end up sistering in 2x4/6s or laminates on most of the roof trusses to stiffen/strengthen sooner or later, so you might as well look into the cost now. Getting it done BEFORE you hang all sorts of crap from the trusses (including new wiring) is the easiest route.
Good shit. Nice tube bender combo. As far as the I beam issue goes, I would have fixed the walls first, got a longer I beam and placed it on top of the wall while moving the attic floor up 6". Would have given you more head space down in the shop. Especially for that tube bender. But now you've put the weight of the roof on one end of a cracking and sagging slab with that wood beam supporting the steel beam.
Double up on that 2x4 you put in the center of the room on the second floor!
More shop upgrade videos! love the new headquarters boys!!! keep up the great videos!
it’s really comin together!
Keep up the great videos - I like the mix of shop improvements and go kart videos!
Yessss we want to see EVERYTHING you will be doing to this and the entire property!
The new shop is coming along great! Nice work guys!
Need to replace the 2 wooden post with steel, and ad angled braces at each end. A third post outside of staircase would be a really good idea as well as the braces
Really liking the shop resto videos, keep em coming guys
Great job guys, the shop is working out nicely. Nice thing about the conc block walls is it should keep it somewhat nice in there in the summer.
Yes most definitely more shop upgrades I love watching you guys upgraded it's a blast so keep it going keep the videos coming
Great improvements!!! If you find the I beam deflecting slightly when using the lift you can weld steel to the bottom of it to stiffen it up FYI.
Best bandage I've ever used was black tape. Starting to come together great.👍
You really do need those gable supports. Tapcons will work for a while but you need something stronger than wood under the I-Beam. Definitely look into a levelling service. Will do a good job that will likely last your lifetime. I grew up with engineering, my dad was a civil engineer and I have inspected many sites, working with him directly. I love your channel and want you to succeed, don't want you getting hurt.
I like watching you guys fix the place up keep me coming!
Hey guys, if you sister those joists at 1/4 the distance it will really help stiffen up that loft. Joist twisting is the most common reason for large floor deflection. You can also drill into the concrete and pump spray foam into any cavities to lift smaller cracked sections of slab.
Yes, steel bends. When you lift heavy materials with your I beam hoist please add posts(s) where needed. You guys ever hear of a thing called a "bandana" or even just an old kitchen towel works fine. SECURITY and don't forget about the window upstairs, they can climb onto the roof and smash their way in. Hungry tigers work well too.
You should grab a couple of those adjustable basement posts for under that I beam. At least one for the center.
Thankyou very much for the great update video to you shop boy's it's looking amazeballs. Stay safe and well, take care.
Around here they have "Mud Jacking", they drill a hole in the floor and inject concrete to raise slabs, sidewalks and foundations. It works really works good!
Nice guys
Tip, paint the walls white
Helps with the lighting
Check into the expanding foam repair for leveling a slab, have seen videos where they lift a slab almost 6 inches to level with other parts.
This is a great series, we want to see as much as possible about this shop!
As an HVAC Tech putting up OSB will help stabilize the floor and tighten it up some but it has almost no R Value. You should consider getting some High density foam insulation and putting over it or what I would do is buy fiberglass bats of insulation and put the up on the underside. It will do way more for keeping the building comfortable and for a building that size would not cost that much.