It's nice to see someone that also loves to have their tools be the best they can be. Nice work and you have reason to be proud of the results. Cheers!
Thank You !! I just got one of these machines a week ago & this video is Very Inspiring, I’m just starting to tear mine apart & cleaning it all up, so this is SOO ABSOLUTELY AMAZING to See all of the Things you’ve done & how they Add to its performance afterwards !! A MILLION Thanks 🙏
Such a good video. I have one of these on the way from China now. I’ve never been excited about a Chinese delivery like I am of this and even more now that I watched this video. The part about making nicer things when the machine is in order really resonated with me. Nothing better than an organized work bench. Thanks for taking the time.
Love the series. I was going to start modding mine but was surprised to see mine is a little different. I just got mine two months ago, watching every video I could find. You made the most sense and sound improvement. But Mine already came with ball bearings where you welded up and installed bushings. A polished foot advance ramp. I did order it from eBay directly from China, no brand name or any markings for 99.99. It isn’t used definitely new. Obviously not as beautiful as your machine but someone is improving them slightly. I will still dismantle it , grind the coarse spots and protect it from rust. A motor is in it’s future.
Well I'm glad you enjoyed the videos even if they are not too useful, it's very interesting to hear about the differences on these machines. Good luck with the motor installation!
What a contribution - the art of restoration and mechanics. Like you, I would have done the same. I am thinking of DIY nickle plating on some objects while thinking of power coating others. Yet another option is to have selected objects chrome plated. The voids in the arms can be treated with a material (like you would use for auto body work) prior to powder coating. Powder coating is 15 times the durability of paint with no need to prime.
Congrats on a great build - you surely did make a "custom" build with the mods you did. I've looked all over and still have not found the video showing the lift lever mod for the walking foot. I can see it, but no details on how you did the mod. Again, watching all the videos I'm really impressed with your attention to detail. Reminds me of the old days when building custom bikes (choppers) with full molded frames and custom paint. Good job.
I love the brass accents, it gives it an 18th century steampunk look to it and I totally get how the look of the machine influences the quality of the product that is produced with it. If it was filthy and dripping with dirty grease and jagged and you are getting cut up on it, you aren’t as likely to want to spend time and effort on sewing with it
Expecting mine today. I don'y have the powered abrasive equipment thatyou have or I'd do the same thing. You did a lot more than just putting lipstick on a pig. Like you said, you finished the manufactering process. Well and smartly done.
Thank you for some great videos. Just starting to work on mine. 1) As I clean-up the hand crank plate grooves I'm wondering how concerned to be about taking off too much metal. Right now I'm just working thru gray scale until I see shiny metal. I'd really like to keep working it to smooth up the track. 2) Hope to see a video, or just pictures, of the modification you made on the lifter. Thank you again.
I like your buffer-in-vise set up at 6:17. I have had great success with compound and different buffing wheel on the old bench grinder. I mark the buffing wheels for the metal so not to cross contaminate. Did a wood box for use in my vise for the belt sander while still having access to belt tracking knob and throttle lock. Wish I had a metal lathe :( But Brilliant! I love this stuff.
Awesome mods. I have the china patcher as well as 29k71 and a Techsew 2900 but the china patcher is the first go-to machine EXCEPT it was so filthy that when I got it I bathed it in varsol and still dont over use it. I was planning on doing something to clean it up and having seen this video, i know EXACTLY what I'm now going to do. Thanks for the inspiration. :)
Excellent! I am envious of your Singer, I have no idea if it would suit me better but they are very pleasing to the eye. All the best and I've got a few more to come in this series..... Maybe it'll never end
As a farm boy, who grew up around various type of machinery, I have seen similar casting on certain equipment. My fascination with all things mechanical, I enjoyed the shooting sports, by walking into a Western Auto hardware store and purchased a pump action 22 long at age 14 made by Mossberg. But long story short, the fabulous mind of John Browning, in his machine shop in Utah, would produce hand forged parts that provided proof of concept that the mechanism works. The patents where sold to Winchester who completed a finished product. It was said that certain parts he made in an hour, did not look like it would work, but did. So, sand cast, hand forging, machine or lathe machined then finished briefly using stones for polishing, then close tolerance parts where finished on a leather strop. I am sure if he was alive would recognize these parts and how they where made. Just not a high end complete casting, polishing or finish one would expect. I find you efforts rewarding! ASE Master Tech since 1978 / Retired
Thanks for the comment, I enjoyed reading it, alas I've not had the pleasure of getting aquatinted with John Browning's work other than videos on UA-cam, and I find it a bit difficult learning about things that Im not holding in my mits! I hope retirement doesn't keep you too busy to enjoy nuts and bolts!
@@turboconqueringmegaeagle9006 It was said that John Browning while sitting in a cafe' and ordered, would sit there with his hands in the air, moving them back & forth, moving his finger up or down, left or right, using his mind to visualize the movement of a mechanical device he was thinking of. Amazing to think of! Saw a movie or Nat-Geo show. Anyways, I am proud of how you files, smoothed, machined basically putting the time in to make it yours and better. Even the paint. Now, with that said, I noticed the extra lever you added for lifting the pressor foot off the end. I am working on three different designs to accurately adjust the "Stitch Length" at the spring load stop bolt. I draw designs on printer paper and thought of a cam with spring loaded detent, that has accurate marks to indicate the "SPI" or stitches per inch. Not for market but like you, just for use. Had to retire real early due to severe chronic pain, now almost 9 years and the main med. was reduced from 5 per day to 4 due to Opioid epidemic. Suck to be in so much pain, but now cost will have me stopping all future Dr. visits and when meds run out, so be it. I fabricate metal or make better but my focus is on a 67 C10. This is why I found this video. My commercial Juki will only produce stitches max of 9 per inch. A reinforced French seam in a nice seat leather requires about 4 per inch to look good. With the changes coming, I am not sure I can finish what I started, but have 5 years in this. Not for show, but EFI 5.3L with over-drive auto and 308 final to get good MPG. Just for me or called grocery getter. These where built like tractors with a bed and cab. The engine came from a late model Tahoe and yes, I know how everything works and gets wired. Just doing the seats as it is over 115 "Feel Like" temps outside. Great video in this machine that works great on everything from vinyl to 1.3mm leather. Thanks! Subscribed
@@deankay4434 ok, business first, the stitch length is not consistent so restricting the arm at a constant travel still won't produce consistent lengths, polishing up the mating wedges that advance the foot really improved the situation but because the advance is only at the whim of a spring, other things effect it too, to stay consistent it needs constant oil, foot pressure, thread tension, foot direction and material thickness. I would very much like to find a solution but feel it is in providing a positive mechanical advance rather than however far the spring feels like dragging two wedged surfaces against each other! I am now looking for a more serious machine as I am trying to sell my knives and sheaths so I'll be able to really go to town on this machine, fix the foot and make a reversing mechanism that has a positive pitch control. You are welcome here in England, healthcare is free, not the best quality and the waiting times are terrible but any Tom, Dick or Harry can get surgery or free drugs, and if you bring your truck you'd get a lot of respect from the right people and really piss off the anti-fun brigade!
@@turboconqueringmegaeagle9006 I absolutely agree that with all of the factors you have mentioned effect the stitch length. As always, try on a practice piece of the same material before commenting to your final project. Since it hand operated, anyone has the advantage of watching the stitch while they proceed and make adjustment accordingly on the fly. I have played around using some vinyl and thin leather with and without a fresh seam or folds of more material. The machine is simple enough and I enjoyed watching the process to improve the appearance & function. Smooth parts will always work better than rough ones, and you did a nice job on yours. I have a commercial Juki lock-stitch but not a walking foot. It's max stitch length is only 3.5 stitches per centimeter. To get a longer top stitch for show, I will use this machine. Needles make a difference as well as here "R" is universal and produce a slight twist, while "DI" or diamond stitch straight in leather. I am going to try different needles as well. Thanks for all the pointers & tips mate and have a pint on me!
Great video as usual I completely understand what you have done with the brass components for the sake of making the machine look good which I must say you have achieved in my opinion. Have you thought of some how to make the hand drive into maybe a foot drive to free up your hand or even a electric drive would be well within your capability just a thought. And I think wearing a nice dress when you're sowing could be interesting for us viewers lol. Take care mate.👍👍👍.
Shall I get a perm as well? The thing with the leather stitching is I normally try and follow a groove so go pretty slow and on stuff like knife sheaths where they are small I'm not worried about speed. The other consideration is there a still quite a few iron on iron running surfaces so running at speed is going to really knock the life expectancy down but plenty of folk have done it.
The linkage that you use to raise the foot, remove it , widen the hole in the cast body of the patcher where the linkage was attached with a 5/16 bit. heat and bend a 90 degree bend in a 1/4''' all thread rod, make the bend 1'' long. slide the rod through the hole you drilled with the bend on the side where the linkage was. on the other side of the cast . thread a 1/4'' rod coupling up to the body of the patcher, heat and bend the rod 90 degrees attach a handle . you just moved the linkage from behind the patcher to the front where it is easy access.
This is what I have been looking for! I ve got a machine, now I need prepare it for clean work... Great video and very informative! But i still quiet didn't understand what did you use 3:20-3:35..(English is second language for me). Then 3:40- 3:53 .....? Thank you in advance!
Great channel. Any advice on how to align the sewing head so that the needle is properly aligned with the hole adjacant to the bobbin shuttle? My needle is off centre, touches the presser foot & is circa 1/8" away from the hole. The shaft that carries the needle (Needle bar?) isn't warped.
Awesome job, i got one of this myself but unfortunately is not synchronized, it does not pick up the bottom thread, hopefully you have some time in the future to share a video about how you synchronized yours, congratulations for such great upgrades.
I powerwashed my machine when i got it to remove all dirt and oil best thing i could of done then filed and wirebrushed several parts i must disassemble the head and inspect it yet but i use it and it sews good
Hi ...... Been hand stitching everything for years.... But never been able to afford a good machine... Can you put 3 cord Barbour linen thread through this machine as some of my projects don't need to be hand sewn. Any answers appreciated. Ta
I'm sorry my friend, very much still a machine stitch beginner myself. What I would say is that it takes a very long time to set up for different jobs.
Hi, I have one of these machines. Just bought it and the bobbin holder for winding the bobbin is a sanded down screw and the bobbins will not fit. I was sewing and a small screw fell out at the front. I don't know where it came from and can't find a place where a screw is missing but the material started gathering. I am wondering if you would be able to help me. Thank you
If you have Facebook I'd suggest joining the Chinese shoe stitch machine group and uploading some pics there, they are a very helpful bunch but I'm afraid without looking at the screw I don't think I can help.
It's got no problem penetrating canvas, just doesn't feed anything that isn't stiff too well so you need to put tons of pins in or cheat and glue it first.
@@turboconqueringmegaeagle9006 it bunches the material instead of feeding if its not stiff. Roger that, that makes sense. Sounds like you got 'er figured out!
@@welderguy you got it, takes a bit of setting up for different materials and thickness but lots of fun, found a huge old singer 95 now though so I'll get rid of this one soon.
Thanks, and good question! Cleaning up the rough machining is the only thing I consider vital, people who have used their patches a lot complain of stitches getting short which is down to wear which will be minimised just with a bit of sand paper as I've done in this video.
@@turboconqueringmegaeagle9006 Much obliged. I've followed your advice, and WOW! What a difference it makes. The most badly finished parts of my machine were the ends of the levers that rest on the cams. They had started to cut into the cams, digging a shallow groove, so I had to give them a severe grinding to round them off. A great video on disassembling the patcher: ua-cam.com/video/o5I8EdZyhzI/v-deo.html
"Wedg Wich advance" you said ? could that be polished and covered in silver solder to create a slipping surface.. do you think it would hold for a while ?
It'll be a week or so before I manage a video on the lifter as I'm currently working on a knee operated lifter to go with it, I was going to lump them both together in the one video.
@@turboconqueringmegaeagle9006 Nice. I look forward to seeing it. I use mine for Leatherwork and the best upgrade I did was re-time it to accept commercial needles. I can run 207 thread in it now with zero issue...aside from the small bobbin capacity.
The talent to work metal and fabricate parts takes alot of experience. There is nothing compared to the satisfaction gained from fitting a machine, part by part so it works better and lasts longer,and becomes a pleasure to use.I just don't understand why products like this sewing machine aren't manufactured at home,as this is a copy of an old American sewing Machine Made by a Reputable American Sewing Machine Manufacturer, and although I bought one myself,it somehow bothers me, and motivates me to realize how much I need to improve my skills to face the looming threat of the Chinese. I should find a Chinese Machine Manufacturer and totally rip off their design Patent and sell it to the Chinese Cheaper!
I don't know how that would have worked out with filling the rough spots in the casting, would be interesting to find out, but I didn't even consider it as he fits my small bits in around big commercial orders so the bike took 3 weeks.
I'd have to charge more than an industrial machine costs to make it worthwhile, I did try to give alternatives that require less tooling though, I hope these were helpful my friend.
It's nice to see someone that also loves to have their tools be the best they can be. Nice work and you have reason to be proud of the results. Cheers!
Thank You !! I just got one of these machines a week ago & this video is Very Inspiring, I’m just starting to tear mine apart & cleaning it all up, so this is SOO ABSOLUTELY AMAZING to See all of the Things you’ve done & how they Add to its performance afterwards !! A MILLION Thanks 🙏
I have fallen in love with that little machine. Watching the motion of the arms in the barang video brought me here.
Fantastic isn't it, hideously charming or something
@@turboconqueringmegaeagle9006 might have to get me one.... not sure what I'll do with it but hay
Truly thorough, as your video shows. Please keep posting notes on your use of this machine. Very appreciated!
You inspire me to buy that lathe I’ve wanted sooner now rather than being slack and waiting.
Ha, excellent news I can't imagine being without.
Such a good video. I have one of these on the way from China now. I’ve never been excited about a Chinese delivery like I am of this and even more now that I watched this video.
The part about making nicer things when the machine is in order really resonated with me. Nothing better than an organized work bench.
Thanks for taking the time.
Love the series. I was going to start modding mine but was surprised to see mine is a little different. I just got mine two months ago, watching every video I could find. You made the most sense and sound improvement. But
Mine already came with ball bearings where you welded up and installed bushings. A polished foot advance ramp. I did order it from eBay directly from China, no brand name or any markings for 99.99. It isn’t used definitely new. Obviously not as beautiful as your machine but someone is improving them slightly. I will still dismantle it , grind the coarse spots and protect it from rust. A motor is in it’s future.
Well I'm glad you enjoyed the videos even if they are not too useful, it's very interesting to hear about the differences on these machines.
Good luck with the motor installation!
What a contribution - the art of restoration and mechanics. Like you, I would have done the same. I am thinking of DIY nickle plating on some objects while thinking of power coating others. Yet another option is to have selected objects chrome plated. The voids in the arms can be treated with a material (like you would use for auto body work) prior to powder coating. Powder coating is 15 times the durability of paint with no need to prime.
Congrats on a great build - you surely did make a "custom" build with the mods you did. I've looked all over and still have not found the video showing the lift lever mod for the walking foot. I can see it, but no details on how you did the mod.
Again, watching all the videos I'm really impressed with your attention to detail. Reminds me of the old days when building custom bikes (choppers) with full molded frames and custom paint. Good job.
Absolutely enjoy your videos thanks for posting.
I love the brass accents, it gives it an 18th century steampunk look to it and I totally get how the look of the machine influences the quality of the product that is produced with it. If it was filthy and dripping with dirty grease and jagged and you are getting cut up on it, you aren’t as likely to want to spend time and effort on sewing with it
As far as I can tell, it's a copy of a 19th century British machine made in Oldham by a company called Bradbury's.
Very interesting to see how (and the reasoning behind) you upgrade and finish off the machine 👍
It was really fun working through this one.
Expecting mine today. I don'y have the powered abrasive equipment thatyou have or I'd do the same thing. You did a lot more than just putting lipstick on a pig. Like you said, you finished the manufactering process. Well and smartly done.
Love your humor. Very interesting and informative video mate. Thanks.
Wow you really made a silk purse out of a sow's ear there sir. Fantastic job. Al
Your videos are great! You spent $400 worth of labor on a machine that comes out of the box for $125..but I understand why and its very cool!
Really great job. Thank you.
Thank you for some great videos. Just starting to work on mine. 1) As I clean-up the hand crank plate grooves I'm wondering how concerned to be about taking off too much metal. Right now I'm just working thru gray scale until I see shiny metal. I'd really like to keep working it to smooth up the track. 2) Hope to see a video, or just pictures, of the modification you made on the lifter. Thank you again.
I like your buffer-in-vise set up at 6:17. I have had great success with compound and different buffing wheel on the old bench grinder. I mark the buffing wheels for the metal so not to cross contaminate. Did a wood box for use in my vise for the belt sander while still having access to belt tracking knob and throttle lock. Wish I had a metal lathe :( But Brilliant! I love this stuff.
Yes, what is life if you don't get carried away in something. The build looks great by that way.
Awesome mods. I have the china patcher as well as 29k71 and a Techsew 2900 but the china patcher is the first go-to machine EXCEPT it was so filthy that when I got it I bathed it in varsol and still dont over use it. I was planning on doing something to clean it up and having seen this video, i know EXACTLY what I'm now going to do. Thanks for the inspiration. :)
Excellent! I am envious of your Singer, I have no idea if it would suit me better but they are very pleasing to the eye. All the best and I've got a few more to come in this series..... Maybe it'll never end
Beautiful
As a farm boy, who grew up around various type of machinery, I have seen similar casting on certain equipment. My fascination with all things mechanical, I enjoyed the shooting sports, by walking into a Western Auto hardware store and purchased a pump action 22 long at age 14 made by Mossberg.
But long story short, the fabulous mind of John Browning, in his machine shop in Utah, would produce hand forged parts that provided proof of concept that the mechanism works. The patents where sold to Winchester who completed a finished product. It was said that certain parts he made in an hour, did not look like it would work, but did. So, sand cast, hand forging, machine or lathe machined then finished briefly using stones for polishing, then close tolerance parts where finished on a leather strop. I am sure if he was alive would recognize these parts and how they where made. Just not a high end complete casting, polishing or finish one would expect. I find you efforts rewarding!
ASE Master Tech since 1978 / Retired
Thanks for the comment, I enjoyed reading it, alas I've not had the pleasure of getting aquatinted with John Browning's work other than videos on UA-cam, and I find it a bit difficult learning about things that Im not holding in my mits!
I hope retirement doesn't keep you too busy to enjoy nuts and bolts!
@@turboconqueringmegaeagle9006 It was said that John Browning while sitting in a cafe' and ordered, would sit there with his hands in the air, moving them back & forth, moving his finger up or down, left or right, using his mind to visualize the movement of a mechanical device he was thinking of. Amazing to think of! Saw a movie or Nat-Geo show.
Anyways, I am proud of how you files, smoothed, machined basically putting the time in to make it yours and better. Even the paint. Now, with that said, I noticed the extra lever you added for lifting the pressor foot off the end. I am working on three different designs to accurately adjust the "Stitch Length" at the spring load stop bolt. I draw designs on printer paper and thought of a cam with spring loaded detent, that has accurate marks to indicate the "SPI" or stitches per inch. Not for market but like you, just for use.
Had to retire real early due to severe chronic pain, now almost 9 years and the main med. was reduced from 5 per day to 4 due to Opioid epidemic. Suck to be in so much pain, but now cost will have me stopping all future Dr. visits and when meds run out, so be it. I fabricate metal or make better but my focus is on a 67 C10. This is why I found this video. My commercial Juki will only produce stitches max of 9 per inch. A reinforced French seam in a nice seat leather requires about 4 per inch to look good. With the changes coming, I am not sure I can finish what I started, but have 5 years in this. Not for show, but EFI 5.3L with over-drive auto and 308 final to get good MPG. Just for me or called grocery getter. These where built like tractors with a bed and cab. The engine came from a late model Tahoe and yes, I know how everything works and gets wired. Just doing the seats as it is over 115 "Feel Like" temps outside. Great video in this machine that works great on everything from vinyl to 1.3mm leather. Thanks! Subscribed
@@deankay4434 ok, business first, the stitch length is not consistent so restricting the arm at a constant travel still won't produce consistent lengths, polishing up the mating wedges that advance the foot really improved the situation but because the advance is only at the whim of a spring, other things effect it too, to stay consistent it needs constant oil, foot pressure, thread tension, foot direction and material thickness. I would very much like to find a solution but feel it is in providing a positive mechanical advance rather than however far the spring feels like dragging two wedged surfaces against each other!
I am now looking for a more serious machine as I am trying to sell my knives and sheaths so I'll be able to really go to town on this machine, fix the foot and make a reversing mechanism that has a positive pitch control.
You are welcome here in England, healthcare is free, not the best quality and the waiting times are terrible but any Tom, Dick or Harry can get surgery or free drugs, and if you bring your truck you'd get a lot of respect from the right people and really piss off the anti-fun brigade!
@@turboconqueringmegaeagle9006 I absolutely agree that with all of the factors you have mentioned effect the stitch length. As always, try on a practice piece of the same material before commenting to your final project. Since it hand operated, anyone has the advantage of watching the stitch while they proceed and make adjustment accordingly on the fly. I have played around using some vinyl and thin leather with and without a fresh seam or folds of more material. The machine is simple enough and I enjoyed watching the process to improve the appearance & function. Smooth parts will always work better than rough ones, and you did a nice job on yours. I have a commercial Juki lock-stitch but not a walking foot. It's max stitch length is only 3.5 stitches per centimeter. To get a longer top stitch for show, I will use this machine. Needles make a difference as well as here "R" is universal and produce a slight twist, while "DI" or diamond stitch straight in leather. I am going to try different needles as well. Thanks for all the pointers & tips mate and have a pint on me!
Thank you for the video. I plan on buying one of these and it was helpful to see whay I am getting into.
Great video as usual I completely understand what you have done with the brass components for the sake of making the machine look good which I must say you have achieved in my opinion. Have you thought of some how to make the hand drive into maybe a foot drive to free up your hand or even a electric drive would be well within your capability just a thought. And I think wearing a nice dress when you're sowing could be interesting for us viewers lol. Take care mate.👍👍👍.
Shall I get a perm as well?
The thing with the leather stitching is I normally try and follow a groove so go pretty slow and on stuff like knife sheaths where they are small I'm not worried about speed. The other consideration is there a still quite a few iron on iron running surfaces so running at speed is going to really knock the life expectancy down but plenty of folk have done it.
Looks so much better now you’ve sorted it 👍
The linkage that you use to raise the foot, remove it , widen the hole in the cast body of the patcher where the linkage was attached with a 5/16 bit. heat and bend a 90 degree bend in a 1/4''' all thread rod, make the bend 1'' long. slide the rod through the hole you drilled with the bend on the side where the linkage was. on the other side of the cast . thread a 1/4'' rod coupling up to the body of the patcher, heat and bend the rod 90 degrees attach a handle . you just moved the linkage from behind the patcher to the front where it is easy access.
Hope you still plan to rework the swival head and bobbin arm. Would very much like to see that
Felicidades amigo. Si con este vídeo no te enamoras de la máquina es que no tienes corazón! Saludos desde Salta Argentina. A.A.S.
This is what I have been looking for! I ve got a machine, now I need prepare it for clean work...
Great video and very informative! But i still quiet didn't understand what did you use 3:20-3:35..(English is second language for me). Then 3:40- 3:53 .....?
Thank you in advance!
Great channel. Any advice on how to align the sewing head so that the needle is properly aligned with the hole adjacant to the bobbin shuttle? My needle is off centre, touches the presser foot & is circa 1/8" away from the hole. The shaft that carries the needle (Needle bar?) isn't warped.
Awesome job, i got one of this myself but unfortunately is not synchronized, it does not pick up the bottom thread, hopefully you have some time in the future to share a video about how you synchronized yours, congratulations for such great upgrades.
"I WEAR A BIKINI"...classic! Great video thanks for posting.
Magnificent work....
I powerwashed my machine when i got it to remove all dirt and oil best thing i could of done then filed and wirebrushed several parts i must disassemble the head and inspect it yet but i use it and it sews good
Nice work!
Hi ...... Been hand stitching everything for years.... But never been able to afford a good machine... Can you put 3 cord Barbour linen thread through this machine as some of my projects don't need to be hand sewn. Any answers appreciated. Ta
I'm sorry my friend, very much still a machine stitch beginner myself. What I would say is that it takes a very long time to set up for different jobs.
Brill thanks good vid. One question where the f can you get the bobbins for it? Anyone know??
Bantam if you are in the states. www.bantamsaddletack.com/Bobbins-for-Chinese-Patcher-Sewing-Machine--5-pack_p_48.html
Did you touch up the foot so that it avoids making marks on leather? Thanks
Yes, mine had very sharp teeth on it when it came.
Some people plastic dip them which sounds like a good grippy idea
Hi, I have one of these machines. Just bought it and the bobbin holder for winding the bobbin is a sanded down screw and the bobbins will not fit. I was sewing and a small screw fell out at the front. I don't know where it came from and can't find a place where a screw is missing but the material started gathering. I am wondering if you would be able to help me. Thank you
If you have Facebook I'd suggest joining the Chinese shoe stitch machine group and uploading some pics there, they are a very helpful bunch but I'm afraid without looking at the screw I don't think I can help.
@@turboconqueringmegaeagle9006 Thank you. I will do as you suggested.
Is it any good on heavy denim. Pants specifically, sorry trousers. 😊
It's got no problem penetrating canvas, just doesn't feed anything that isn't stiff too well so you need to put tons of pins in or cheat and glue it first.
@@turboconqueringmegaeagle9006 it bunches the material instead of feeding if its not stiff. Roger that, that makes sense. Sounds like you got 'er figured out!
@@welderguy you got it, takes a bit of setting up for different materials and thickness but lots of fun, found a huge old singer 95 now though so I'll get rid of this one soon.
Nice work!~
Love the vid and the uploads mate I look forward to them 😀 you sound half cut in this one lmao
Cheers... I think!
@@turboconqueringmegaeagle9006 "half cut" is a Slang Term for Drunk...LOL
Beautiful
Superb work; very inspiring. What would you consider to be essential modifications?
Thanks, and good question!
Cleaning up the rough machining is the only thing I consider vital, people who have used their patches a lot complain of stitches getting short which is down to wear which will be minimised just with a bit of sand paper as I've done in this video.
@@turboconqueringmegaeagle9006 Much obliged. I've followed your advice, and WOW! What a difference it makes. The most badly finished parts of my machine were the ends of the levers that rest on the cams. They had started to cut into the cams, digging a shallow groove, so I had to give them a severe grinding to round them off.
A great video on disassembling the patcher: ua-cam.com/video/o5I8EdZyhzI/v-deo.html
"Wedg Wich advance" you said ? could that be polished and covered in silver solder to create a slipping surface.. do you think it would hold for a while ?
Nice idea, I'd really like to remake both parts in a hard steel or mild steel and add a drop of hard facing weld
Fantastic mate
I have no idea what this medieval torture instrument is for, but I gave the videos a like anyway, seeing as its you Jamesy.
Cheers Sam!
I am really curious to see the details on the foot Lifter.
It'll be a week or so before I manage a video on the lifter as I'm currently working on a knee operated lifter to go with it, I was going to lump them both together in the one video.
@@turboconqueringmegaeagle9006 Nice. I look forward to seeing it. I use mine for Leatherwork and the best upgrade I did was re-time it to accept commercial needles. I can run 207 thread in it now with zero issue...aside from the small bobbin capacity.
The talent to work metal and fabricate parts takes alot of experience. There is nothing compared to the satisfaction gained from fitting a machine, part by part so it works better and lasts longer,and becomes a pleasure to use.I just don't understand why products like this sewing machine aren't manufactured at home,as this is a copy of an old American sewing Machine Made by a Reputable American Sewing Machine Manufacturer, and although I bought one myself,it somehow bothers me, and motivates me to realize how much I need to improve my skills to face the looming threat of the Chinese. I should find a Chinese Machine Manufacturer and totally rip off their design Patent and sell it to the Chinese Cheaper!
A nice dress would be more demure Turbo, at least until we get to know each other better :-)
Vinnie you are such a nice boy, a true gentleman.
As long as you don’t adorn yourself with one of those fluro green Borat mankini things and start sewing, that would be just wrong! 🤣
Could the guy that powder coated the bicycle powder coat this for you?
I don't know how that would have worked out with filling the rough spots in the casting, would be interesting to find out, but I didn't even consider it as he fits my small bits in around big commercial orders so the bike took 3 weeks.
Wow ! trying to make a silk purse from a pigs ear ,and succeeded
I think I would have taken it all apart and down to the nearest machine shop to have it all hot tanked. (degreased) LoL
الله ينور عليك
Can i send you my machine and do the same??
Let me know thanks!
I'd have to charge more than an industrial machine costs to make it worthwhile, I did try to give alternatives that require less tooling though, I hope these were helpful my friend.
EBAY as of today selling these for $90.58!!!
What language is this guy speaking?
Uuuu huuuh, we know your a closet queen....might as well admit it....