You are definitely an artist! You are using your skills to make ALIVE a piece of machinery that was invented to make the rough job done; but as it is known "profit" is a priority in every business and factories in China are competing to make them at the lowest cost at minimum time possible; therefore, roughness, bad aspect and sometimes defective work is the result. As you said in your videos, these machines have became very popular and its price has dropped significantly because Chinese factories competency. My last acquisition was paying only $ 98.00 dollars on ebay with shipping included. Do not worry for comments on your accent, I understood you perfectly; even tough my native language is not English but Spanish. I have three of this machines and I intend to use most of your modifications on them. I am sending you a sincere thanks for sharing all the hours you must have spent to figure out of how to make this machines work better. Cheers Master!
Thank you for sharing this. I am thinking of buying one of these machines, and everyone who has posted a video states how they must be modified in some way or other to be really usable. I'm learning so much, and I do still really want one.
TRICK: After oiling, run an inch or 4 of stitching and then use a compressor to blow off the excess oil. Wipe the remaining residue and you are set to go. Just oiling and let it run off is asking for trouble. If you get oil on it - then just oil all of it. It will all match and be just fine.
Mate, don't hide your light under a bushel. You are a very skilled person indeed . Looking forward to your next video. Although i have a singer patcher liberated from a skip :)
A singer 29? I'm still not sure what I actually want in a sewing machine. A bit thicker and much heavier thread would be nice. That must have been the most rewarding bit of bin diving, he who dares!
@@turboconqueringmegaeagle9006 you can sew 207 with a 22 needle on vegetan nicely. That's good size thread. Just add it to all the other machines you have for getting whatever needs to be done, done. Outstanding knowledge and imagination. You have inspired me!
James, this is utterly fascinating! I have been thinking of getting a sewing machine because I am tired of asking my wife and mother to sew my hems and cuff my pants and just yesterday had to pay $16 to have my pants cuffed at a tailor. That machine seems very crude and I found them on eBay and Amazon and most people complain about the crudeness if them. But as you noted, it’s made for rough work in rough situations and it’s cheap because it’s not refined. The more refined something becomes, the higher it’s cost to buy, because it required someone to invest time and effort and that justifies the cost. This will be a great series! Looking forward to it! 👍🏻 You are amazingly skilled! Don’t sell yourself short, very few people in this world can do what you do. Believe me!
Seriously man, the trade skills I have like sheet alluminium or aluminum would take some time for someone to pick up but pretty much everything I do on here you would do just as well, that's the whole point in this channel! Be inspired, find a free sewing machine and make Charlie that custom Burberry body warmer he's always wanted!
James, don’t give up my problem was the bobbin tension had to be tightened up.Note: this pterodactyl looking stitching machine is working the way it should’ve in the beginning. But, I think that the tensioning will need to be adjusted more then I thought. And your right the cost out ways my time.
Just what I was looking for very nice work we'd fit like Pease in a Pod !! Wanted to add regarding the thread spool platform. When I worked on my model boat I had lots of shevs that I needed to keep from fouling. One thing to do is to have a slight wall on this platform. This will keep the thread of the platform surface when loose and as such.. not to slide/roll under spool and around shaft. perhaps a copper plumbing cap cut down. Also I here the way industrial spools are wound they may cause string breakage, (Something new owners may be having issue with) ... So you may have to rewind the spool... not sure as my machine is on its way. Love the way you made an arm for the foot lift !!! And your description of why and how this was and is used .... great, as so many out there don't get the appeal of this train like relic. I love the clankity clank and simplicity. Often when something is complicated it has not reached maturity in other words unnecessary breakage and far to much tuning and professional advice and third party expenses etc. .. when mechanical ingenuity was king and things could be fixed. I worked in a confectionery factory Gum, for 20 years and these milion dollare machines had many spools and 80-120 pound cams 5 or 6, just like the the one on this gem. "Clone of the Bradbury Elastic A-1 Marketed to Asia in 1875".
This goes to show that there is no limit to how a person can improve one of these machines if one has a few advanced pieces of shop equipment. (POST MODIFIED AFTER I VIEWED YOUR PREVIOUS VIDEOS) I still need to get one of these, where I already own a number of heavy duty older sewing machines, an industrial pfaff 138 6/21, and one of those portable walking foot heavy duty sewing machines, but I don't have something that has a long lower arm for reaching in like the shoe patcher, and I also plan on "improving" one when I get it, ....I was thiunking bushings and/or better quality bearings, polishings, even some sort of welding projects to key components after research and personal use(unsure if any levers need added on, extended, etc)...
Here is an idea to do with that machine (if I had one)...drill a small hole in the spindle on which the bobbin carrier rides...run a thread up from the bottom of the sewing arm through it (maybe some wire thread guides leading to it) and leave out the bobbin all together (but leave in the carrier) and never wind one again. Remove the bobbin winder. That's how comercial machines work.
I think all lock stitch sewing machines need a bobbin, because the bobbin must pass completely through the loop formed behind the eye of the needle when forming the stitch. This is done by means of the hook grabbing the loop thread, and passing it under the bobbin. If there were a continuous bottom thread, that would not be possible. Other forms of stitching like chain stitch, and overlock do not need a bobbin.
Fantastic work! I've been looking at cylinder sewing machines for similar work but have been turned off by the price - something like this would do exactly what I need at a fraction of the cost!
Understood. I broke down and bought one the same day as this video went up, so if nothing else you're not alone in figuring out how to improve its performance! I'm not sure if you've seen the China Leather Shoe Patcher Facebook group but there seems to be a lot of good info in here - I understand you're probably sorted mechanically, but there's some good examples of table setups that people have. facebook.com/groups/1646031288779869/
That is quite funny, i did the same, in the morning I was unaware of their existence but by dinner time one was on it's way. Thanks for letting me know about the Facebook group.
sorry if someone already asked this but will this machine also sew something like denim or something thinner like the kind of material in a tee shirt ? if not then what would keep it from performing the job on those materials.. thinking of buying one of these if it can do leather as well as all the other materials.. may even pass it down to someone elses kids since i don't have any of my own, lol
It'll be very happy with denim, what I've found though is changing between materials takes a lot of set up time and experimenting with different needles/tension to get good results. If you are expecting to do big jobs you will get very frustrated with the tiny capacity of the bobbin.
I love gadgets, I love improving gadgets. Has anyone converted one of these to zigzag? Seeing that cylinder swivel sparked my interest. This is a great video, I may have to buy one just to feed the geek.
I don't know as I've only had the one, but I'd recommend asking the same question on the Facebook page dedicated to these little beauties, there is a big difference between them.
Hi there, i bought one of those also because my hands were out of juice for hand sewing bigger jobs. I was wondering if there is a way of feeding the bottom line with a longer thread... it has small capacity and i am thinking of fixing a way of making a continous feed from the bottom. What is your thoughts about this??? Thank you for the videos
I was thinking the same thing, a chain stitch doesn't even need a bottom thread but isn't very strong. I looked at the industrial machines, they all use bobbins for lickstitch, some are huge though so I think a larger bobbin would be the route I'd take if I ever went ahead with a mod like this, maybe shaft drive a vertical bobbin like the cylinder arm machines.
@@turboconqueringmegaeagle9006 I was doing a motorcycle cover with a canvas tarf and I had to bobbin the thread a few times. The thread I used was multifilament fishing line, so the bobbin capacity was reduced a lot. My best idea was a small hole in the arm and the thread will loop one time on the bobbin to create some resistance and drag. Has I made a stand for the machine it would have and arm to support the line feeder. Sorry about my English. I will try to make a drawing and send it. Thanks for the reply
They make these things called "Q-Tips". Yes, I have an external speaker on my laptop, but have spent 40+ in a automotive shops as an ASE Master Tech and have lost a great deal of hearing, but gained the ringing! I can hear him fine, just a different accent. :)
Interesting to see English review on this machine. I've been looking into these machines for replacing zips on WW 2 flying jackets as I've been told you need a walking foot machine as the fleece jams in the walk dog machine. Also if you didn't do full strip down to clean can you flush the whole thing with brake cleaner and dry. You thoughts on using white spray grease instead of oil so less likely to dripping oil etc. Thanks Chris
@Mazo Architecture. The normal max thread size most are using is Size 138 / TEX 135 bonded nylon. It has a tensile strength of 21lbs. but recommended eyelet of 20-22. Needles are listed by “System” or metric. Singer’s needle system stuck but all of the world is metric. It comes with “HA x 1 needles that are 110/18. This means a flat top but the shank is 1.10mm thick & 1.8mm eyelet. TEX 135 is the max. Breaking the top thread requires some diagnostics, so start with no thread and the needle. Check the fit of the needles plate hole for center. Needle has a groove for the thread to lay in while piercing material so indentation at eyelet should face the machine allowing for loop formation on up-stroke for bobbin shuttle hook to catch. This is proper timing. The rest starts with your thread cone mounting. I use a large “Fender” washer on the bottom or can be wood, but I use an old spark plug boot to center the cone/spool to allow free movement. I broke this thread yesterday because the cone spool was caught under a improperly wound thread. Follow the proper threading thru arm, tension disc, spring eyelet guide, take-up arm and down thru needle bar. Hope this helps! Retired ASE Master Tech.
@Dark Nook This uses series HA x 1 or metric 110/18. The max size thread used is TEX135-Size138 bonded nylon that acts like waxed thread with a 21lb. tensile strength. Can’t speak of other type threads, but this is “UV” resistant and most chemicals like fuels and thinners. I have used larger series 134 -size 140 x 22 “D” point for thicker leather, cardboard and auto plastic fasteners. These are round top but with thread groove out, eyelet cavity facing machine works well with timing and no missed bobbin hooks. Groz-Beckert 134 (DB x 1 system) have a 2.0mm shank with 18 eyelet (1.8mm) work great with TEX135-Size138 or larger size eyelets like 22. The point is the smallest hole in the material you have, is best. I have this machine for longer stitches than I can get on my JUKI DDL-5550 lock-stitch. I use the Juki on wrong side of leather tighter stitches when backing a true French Seam.
I have seen many vids addressing various mods to these machines...but not one shows a motor being added. Why wouldn't anyone add a motor and foot control?
Personal preference and the type of work you want to do, also if you spin one of these things up fast it'll wear out twice as quick and spray oil everywhere but there are loads of people who have done so
In the last couple days I’ve seen 2 vids adding a motor. The first was a basic small motor (Mainely Acres) and the other was a complete rebuild with all custom made parts (rlndl66), that will blow your mind.
@@lantznewberry3296 I put a servo motor on mine and dialed it to the lowest setting. It was splendidly. Sews 2 pieces of 8oz. vegetan just fine. It clicks and clacks and I can stop and turn this way and that way. There are many ways to set it up for motors now. Hope yours does as well. Blessings!
You should not wrap the thread from the roll so. The roller should stand still and the thread should be wound upwards. Otherwise, the thread is twisted and it will always go off the roll.
Yes my friend, I cover this in another video, I have just smoothed the teeth, but if you look at the china patcher Facebook page a few people have rubber dipped the foot which I like very much.
Nice job of hot rodding a machine! You should give credit where it is due however....this is a spitting clone done modern of a British Bradbury A1 patcher made first in 1878 and finally stopped a long production run in 1929 with the crash of the stock market. Most china machines are clones of Singer and Juki but this is not. The later 29k Singer made in Scotland took it's cue from the Bradbury and it's many badged versions. I've got both this variety as well as a 29k clone coming. There is one trick I saw for the Tippmann Boss machine you might want to try. Person used a coat hanger and made a "pre-hoop" thing of larger diameter to help guide the thread properly over the top portion of the thread stand. Best regards, Mike
Nice work. When I get around to building a foundry I might try to make one of those. Would a tutorial on solver soldering help? PS, a review of the Titan nailer stapler will be along shortly.
Excellent, I've not been on UA-cam at all this week, I'm just about to catch up on your progress right now! I'd certainly enjoy a tutorial on silver solder, my problem is a lack of sufficient clean heat though, with grey iron of dubious quality I'd only attempt it if i could heat the entire part as I think local heat on the camwheel would have caused damage.
@@turboconqueringmegaeagle9006 Fair enough, I have some very large blow torches though, enough to make a loco boiler. Also important would be firebrick in part for heat containment.
Turbo you are eloquent but you are a first class machinist and mechanic!! I finally got my machine to pick up the bobbin thread after having to adjust multiple parts....the cams, the shuttle driver, the needle holder bar, etc. it would be great if you could make a video explaining how the different parts should align to each other. It would be very helpful to us that are not as mechanically inclined as you. I appreciate your good work. Thanks.
@@turboconqueringmegaeagle9006 you should find a hand crank singer model 28 or the newer 128 I use my patcher and 28 as a team the 28 does all my long stitching and the patcher does all the little things like attaching webbing and together they are what I use to do marine canvas on the go
@@razzorbladz I really don't know which limitations I'm going to run into first, im mostly working with 2-3 mm veg tan at the moment, I'm considering buying a fairly standard industrial machine and just stepping the gearing right down but want to do my learning on this.... And I'm having too much fun modifying it to look at anything else yet!
@@turboconqueringmegaeagle9006 I had great results with the singer 201 was only $35 at a garage sale and was the machine rolls royce used to use to do all their leather interiors the main issue it had was the shagged out old motor I think with an upgrade it would eat leather
I have one of these pterodactyl machines and I finally got it to work.But, (I can’t get a tight stitch), so if there’s anyone out there that can help me, please wright me.
Top strict tension is adjusted using the friction thumb screw on the frame of the machines, bottom stitch tension is adjusted by tightening the small flat spring on the bobin holder, it's not a great system and you'll find if anything else changes like material thickness, thread weight, stitch length you'll be starting from the beginning with the tension and if you make it just a little too tight the thread will catch on one of the many sharp edges and snap but keep things well oiled and put some hours on it and it'll settle down a bit.
@@turboconqueringmegaeagle9006 Thank you so much for telling me about the tension in the bobbin. This was the only thing I didn’t change and it worked. So thanks to you I’m stitching!
You are definitely an artist! You are using your skills to make ALIVE a piece of machinery that was invented to make the rough job done; but as it is known "profit" is a priority in every business and factories in China are competing to make them at the lowest cost at minimum time possible; therefore, roughness, bad aspect and sometimes defective work is the result. As you said in your videos, these machines have became very popular and its price has dropped significantly because Chinese factories competency. My last acquisition was paying only $ 98.00 dollars on ebay with shipping included. Do not worry for comments on your accent, I understood you perfectly; even tough my native language is not English but Spanish. I have three of this machines and I intend to use most of your modifications on them. I am sending you a sincere thanks for sharing all the hours you must have spent to figure out of how to make this machines work better. Cheers Master!
Thank you for sharing this. I am thinking of buying one of these machines, and everyone who has posted a video states how they must be modified in some way or other to be really usable. I'm learning so much, and I do still really want one.
Really interesting. Always a satisfying process to improve and improve a roughly made item. Give it the care and parts it needed in the first place. 👍
Jokes on them though as they could have charged an extra £50 and all of this only took me a fortnight!
TRICK: After oiling, run an inch or 4 of stitching and then use a compressor to blow off the excess oil. Wipe the remaining residue and you are set to go. Just oiling and let it run off is asking for trouble. If you get oil on it - then just oil all of it. It will all match and be just fine.
The people who disliked this video were just jealous. Nicest shoe patcher I've seen, reminds me how far I have to go.
Massively improved and looks great.
I love the finished product of your sewing machine great job
Mate, don't hide your light under a bushel. You are a very skilled person indeed . Looking forward to your next video. Although i have a singer patcher liberated from a skip :)
A singer 29? I'm still not sure what I actually want in a sewing machine. A bit thicker and much heavier thread would be nice.
That must have been the most rewarding bit of bin diving, he who dares!
@@turboconqueringmegaeagle9006 you can sew 207 with a 22 needle on vegetan nicely. That's good size thread. Just add it to all the other machines you have for getting whatever needs to be done, done. Outstanding knowledge and imagination. You have inspired me!
James, this is utterly fascinating! I have been thinking of getting a sewing machine because I am tired of asking my wife and mother to sew my hems and cuff my pants and just yesterday had to pay $16 to have my pants cuffed at a tailor. That machine seems very crude and I found them on eBay and Amazon and most people complain about the crudeness if them. But as you noted, it’s made for rough work in rough situations and it’s cheap because it’s not refined. The more refined something becomes, the higher it’s cost to buy, because it required someone to invest time and effort and that justifies the cost. This will be a great series! Looking forward to it! 👍🏻 You are amazingly skilled! Don’t sell yourself short, very few people in this world can do what you do. Believe me!
Seriously man, the trade skills I have like sheet alluminium or aluminum would take some time for someone to pick up but pretty much everything I do on here you would do just as well, that's the whole point in this channel! Be inspired, find a free sewing machine and make Charlie that custom Burberry body warmer he's always wanted!
James, don’t give up my problem was the bobbin tension had to be tightened up.Note: this pterodactyl looking stitching machine is working the way it should’ve in the beginning. But, I think that the tensioning will need to be adjusted more then I thought. And your right the cost out ways my time.
Super topic and loving the look of your improved machine.
Just what I was looking for very nice work we'd fit like Pease in a Pod !! Wanted to add regarding the thread spool platform. When I worked on my model boat I had lots of shevs that I needed to keep from fouling. One thing to do is to have a slight wall on this platform. This will keep the thread of the platform surface when loose and as such.. not to slide/roll under spool and around shaft. perhaps a copper plumbing cap cut down. Also I here the way industrial spools are wound they may cause string breakage, (Something new owners may be having issue with) ... So you may have to rewind the spool... not sure as my machine is on its way. Love the way you made an arm for the foot lift !!! And your description of why and how this was and is used .... great, as so many out there don't get the appeal of this train like relic. I love the clankity clank and simplicity. Often when something is complicated it has not reached maturity in other words unnecessary breakage and far to much tuning and professional advice and third party expenses etc. .. when mechanical ingenuity was king and things could be fixed.
I worked in a confectionery factory Gum, for 20 years and these milion dollare machines had many spools and 80-120 pound cams 5 or 6, just like the the one on this gem.
"Clone of the Bradbury Elastic A-1 Marketed to Asia in 1875".
ua-cam.com/video/q0qS33ukOGA/v-deo.html
Great job dude! Your mods are very well thought out and executed. You say you’re not a terribly talented person in the video but I beg to differ.
This goes to show that there is no limit to how a person can improve one of these machines if one has a few advanced pieces of shop equipment. (POST MODIFIED AFTER I VIEWED YOUR PREVIOUS VIDEOS) I still need to get one of these, where I already own a number of heavy duty older sewing machines, an industrial pfaff 138 6/21, and one of those portable walking foot heavy duty sewing machines, but I don't have something that has a long lower arm for reaching in like the shoe patcher, and I also plan on "improving" one when I get it, ....I was thiunking bushings and/or better quality bearings, polishings, even some sort of welding projects to key components after research and personal use(unsure if any levers need added on, extended, etc)...
Silicone spray lubes makes a mechanical system flow so much better like vehicle window cranks or the tracks but it does`nt run as bad as oils .
So what was the fix for the foot mechanism in the head of the machine to fix the rough metal on cast iron problem....just filling smooth?
Really impressed - looks like a model T upgraded.
Here is an idea to do with that machine (if I had one)...drill a small hole in the spindle on which the bobbin carrier rides...run a thread up from the bottom of the sewing arm through it (maybe some wire thread guides leading to it) and leave out the bobbin all together (but leave in the carrier) and never wind one again. Remove the bobbin winder. That's how comercial machines work.
I think all lock stitch sewing machines need a bobbin, because the bobbin must pass completely through the loop formed behind the eye of the needle when forming the stitch. This is done by means of the hook grabbing the loop thread, and passing it under the bobbin. If there were a continuous bottom thread, that would not be possible. Other forms of stitching like chain stitch, and overlock do not need a bobbin.
@@eideticgoone7035 The thread does not pass under the bobbin in this machine...
Fantastic work! I've been looking at cylinder sewing machines for similar work but have been turned off by the price - something like this would do exactly what I need at a fraction of the cost!
Thanks, just be aware of the limitations of these machines, they are not really happy above 4mm leather using v92 thread and a 130 needle.
Understood. I broke down and bought one the same day as this video went up, so if nothing else you're not alone in figuring out how to improve its performance!
I'm not sure if you've seen the China Leather Shoe Patcher Facebook group but there seems to be a lot of good info in here - I understand you're probably sorted mechanically, but there's some good examples of table setups that people have.
facebook.com/groups/1646031288779869/
That is quite funny, i did the same, in the morning I was unaware of their existence but by dinner time one was on it's way.
Thanks for letting me know about the Facebook group.
Looks amazing! Beautiful work.
sorry if someone already asked this but will this machine also sew something like denim or something thinner like the kind of material in a tee shirt ? if not then what would keep it from performing the job on those materials.. thinking of buying one of these if it can do leather as well as all the other materials.. may even pass it down to someone elses kids since i don't have any of my own, lol
It'll be very happy with denim, what I've found though is changing between materials takes a lot of set up time and experimenting with different needles/tension to get good results.
If you are expecting to do big jobs you will get very frustrated with the tiny capacity of the bobbin.
Great job
Cheers mate, looking forward to seeing what you get up to with yours!
I love gadgets, I love improving gadgets. Has anyone converted one of these to zigzag? Seeing that cylinder swivel sparked my interest. This is a great video, I may have to buy one just to feed the geek.
Which one of the Chinese shoe patching machines is better than the others?
I don't know as I've only had the one, but I'd recommend asking the same question on the Facebook page dedicated to these little beauties, there is a big difference between them.
You really should obtain a patent on that fascinating thread cutter as seen at about 3:09. Very impressive, Sir.
Very interesting Mate, Looking forward to the build 👍
It was fun, I hope everyone else gets some enjoyment out of it too!
Hi there, i bought one of those also because my hands were out of juice for hand sewing bigger jobs. I was wondering if there is a way of feeding the bottom line with a longer thread... it has small capacity and i am thinking of fixing a way of making a continous feed from the bottom. What is your thoughts about this??? Thank you for the videos
I was thinking the same thing, a chain stitch doesn't even need a bottom thread but isn't very strong.
I looked at the industrial machines, they all use bobbins for lickstitch, some are huge though so I think a larger bobbin would be the route I'd take if I ever went ahead with a mod like this, maybe shaft drive a vertical bobbin like the cylinder arm machines.
@@turboconqueringmegaeagle9006 I was doing a motorcycle cover with a canvas tarf and I had to bobbin the thread a few times. The thread I used was multifilament fishing line, so the bobbin capacity was reduced a lot. My best idea was a small hole in the arm and the thread will loop one time on the bobbin to create some resistance and drag. Has I made a stand for the machine it would have and arm to support the line feeder. Sorry about my English. I will try to make a drawing and send it. Thanks for the reply
@@mikefreitas1331 That’s the thought I had. Basically feeding into a bobbin.
I think your amazing fabricator
I can't understand but every third word you say but I love seeing you work on stuff like this
Gaaarrr
@@turboconqueringmegaeagle9006 lol I'm from New Orleans and I understood you perfectly. :)
They make these things called "Q-Tips". Yes, I have an external speaker on my laptop, but have spent 40+ in a automotive shops as an ASE Master Tech and have lost a great deal of hearing, but gained the ringing! I can hear him fine, just a different accent. :)
Great job well done looks fantastic lovely machine .👍🇬🇧🍺
Cheers as always my man
Amazing video series thank you for going the extra mile .
Cracking effort mate.
Interesting to see English review on this machine.
I've been looking into these machines for replacing zips on WW 2 flying jackets as I've been told you need a walking foot machine as the fleece jams in the walk dog machine.
Also if you didn't do full strip down to clean can you flush the whole thing with brake cleaner and dry.
You thoughts on using white spray grease instead of oil so less likely to dripping oil etc.
Thanks Chris
my chinese leather patcher sewing machine thread keeps breaking ,
please advise me , also whats the thickest thread size to use in this patcher
The bobbin or the needle thread?
@@turboconqueringmegaeagle9006 needle thread , by the way I would like to buy a spinning handle from you
thanks
@Mazo Architecture. The normal max thread size most are using is Size 138 / TEX 135 bonded nylon. It has a tensile strength of 21lbs. but recommended eyelet of 20-22. Needles are listed by “System” or metric. Singer’s needle system stuck but all of the world is metric. It comes with “HA x 1 needles that are 110/18. This means a flat top but the shank is 1.10mm thick & 1.8mm eyelet. TEX 135 is the max.
Breaking the top thread requires some diagnostics, so start with no thread and the needle. Check the fit of the needles plate hole for center. Needle has a groove for the thread to lay in while piercing material so indentation at eyelet should face the machine allowing for loop formation on up-stroke for bobbin shuttle hook to catch. This is proper timing. The rest starts with your thread cone mounting. I use a large “Fender” washer on the bottom or can be wood, but I use an old spark plug boot to center the cone/spool to allow free movement. I broke this thread yesterday because the cone spool was caught under a improperly wound thread. Follow the proper threading thru arm, tension disc, spring eyelet guide, take-up arm and down thru needle bar.
Hope this helps! Retired ASE Master Tech.
Incresdible work would like the mod for operating the preasure foot
question... what size needles does this take and what is the upper end of thread it can run without binding up?
@Dark Nook This uses series HA x 1 or metric 110/18. The max size thread used is TEX135-Size138 bonded nylon that acts like waxed thread with a 21lb. tensile strength. Can’t speak of other type threads, but this is “UV” resistant and most chemicals like fuels and thinners.
I have used larger series 134 -size 140 x 22 “D” point for thicker leather, cardboard and auto plastic fasteners. These are round top but with thread groove out, eyelet cavity facing machine works well with timing and no missed bobbin hooks. Groz-Beckert 134 (DB x 1 system) have a 2.0mm shank with 18 eyelet (1.8mm) work great with TEX135-Size138 or larger size eyelets like 22. The point is the smallest hole in the material you have, is best.
I have this machine for longer stitches than I can get on my JUKI DDL-5550 lock-stitch. I use the Juki on wrong side of leather tighter stitches when backing a true French Seam.
I have seen many vids addressing various mods to these machines...but not one shows a motor being added. Why wouldn't anyone add a motor and foot control?
Personal preference and the type of work you want to do, also if you spin one of these things up fast it'll wear out twice as quick and spray oil everywhere but there are loads of people who have done so
In the last couple days I’ve seen 2 vids adding a motor. The first was a basic small motor (Mainely Acres) and the other was a complete rebuild with all custom made parts (rlndl66), that will blow your mind.
ua-cam.com/video/oBMhyeV53HQ/v-deo.html
@@lantznewberry3296 I put a servo motor on mine and dialed it to the lowest setting. It was splendidly. Sews 2 pieces of 8oz. vegetan just fine. It clicks and clacks and I can stop and turn this way and that way. There are many ways to set it up for motors now. Hope yours does as well. Blessings!
Lots of work to do here Turbo. Anytime my wife wants her shoes patched I just tell her to slip a bit of cardboard into it 😀
You should not wrap the thread from the roll so. The roller should stand still and the thread should be wound upwards. Otherwise, the thread is twisted and it will always go off the roll.
woukd6like to see you rebuild the cylinder head of this machine
how many millimeters of leather she can sew
Hi. The walking foot has a terrible teeth make the work so ugly. Did you make any modification?
Yes my friend, I cover this in another video, I have just smoothed the teeth, but if you look at the china patcher Facebook page a few people have rubber dipped the foot which I like very much.
Nice job of hot rodding a machine! You should give credit where it is due however....this is a spitting clone done modern of a British Bradbury A1 patcher made first in 1878 and finally stopped a long production run in 1929 with the crash of the stock market. Most china machines are clones of Singer and Juki but this is not. The later 29k Singer made in Scotland took it's cue from the Bradbury and it's many badged versions. I've got both this variety as well as a 29k clone coming. There is one trick I saw for the Tippmann Boss machine you might want to try. Person used a coat hanger and made a "pre-hoop" thing of larger diameter to help guide the thread properly over the top portion of the thread stand. Best regards, Mike
All very interesting, you have encylopedic knowledge of sewing machines Mike!
I'm glad you enjoyed my work.
Was that a condor parang?
My version of the Condor, I'm going to start selling them to fund a CNC plasma cutter.
Would It Be Possible For You To Do This To My Machine ??? Or At Least Something Similar ?? Please
Man I love the foot raising mod! I gonna steal this idea, hope you don't mind :)
Nice work. When I get around to building a foundry I might try to make one of those. Would a tutorial on solver soldering help? PS, a review of the Titan nailer stapler will be along shortly.
Oh and how much did the machine cost?
Excellent, I've not been on UA-cam at all this week, I'm just about to catch up on your progress right now!
I'd certainly enjoy a tutorial on silver solder, my problem is a lack of sufficient clean heat though, with grey iron of dubious quality I'd only attempt it if i could heat the entire part as I think local heat on the camwheel would have caused damage.
£110 for the machine
@@turboconqueringmegaeagle9006 Fair enough, I have some very large blow torches though, enough to make a loco boiler. Also important would be firebrick in part for heat containment.
@@turboconqueringmegaeagle9006 That's cheap. I wonder how hard they are to make well.
Turbo you are eloquent but you are a first class machinist and mechanic!! I finally got my machine to pick up the bobbin thread after having to adjust multiple parts....the cams, the shuttle driver, the needle holder bar, etc. it would be great if you could make a video explaining how the different parts should align to each other. It would be very helpful to us that are not as mechanically inclined as you. I appreciate your good work. Thanks.
Ditto Dark Nook's question of a week ago........ Thanks. Anaco, Anz.
Awesome dude
hey dude was looking at your machine on our facebook page nice work
It's a great page, I only got sent there after putting these videos up, I'll try and plug it a bit in the next videos.
@@turboconqueringmegaeagle9006 you should find a hand crank singer model 28 or the newer 128 I use my patcher and 28 as a team the 28 does all my long stitching and the patcher does all the little things like attaching webbing and together they are what I use to do marine canvas on the go
@@razzorbladz I really don't know which limitations I'm going to run into first, im mostly working with 2-3 mm veg tan at the moment, I'm considering buying a fairly standard industrial machine and just stepping the gearing right down but want to do my learning on this.... And I'm having too much fun modifying it to look at anything else yet!
@@turboconqueringmegaeagle9006 I had great results with the singer 201 was only $35 at a garage sale and was the machine rolls royce used to use to do all their leather interiors the main issue it had was the shagged out old motor I think with an upgrade it would eat leather
Mate build one !
I have one of these pterodactyl machines and I finally got it to work.But, (I can’t get a tight stitch), so if there’s anyone out there that can help me, please wright me.
Top strict tension is adjusted using the friction thumb screw on the frame of the machines, bottom stitch tension is adjusted by tightening the small flat spring on the bobin holder, it's not a great system and you'll find if anything else changes like material thickness, thread weight, stitch length you'll be starting from the beginning with the tension and if you make it just a little too tight the thread will catch on one of the many sharp edges and snap but keep things well oiled and put some hours on it and it'll settle down a bit.
@@turboconqueringmegaeagle9006
Thank you so much for telling me about the tension in the bobbin. This was the only thing I didn’t change and it worked.
So thanks to you I’m stitching!
@@jimf8795 fantastic news my friend, happy stitching
Looks so good! I can’t wait tp get mone
Всё супер!!! Молодец!!!
He's talking cobblers again guys.
Hey I just got a machine and it keeps braking the top thread when I tray sewing vegan leather do u know how to fix that?
beaute mate!
nice!