At 15:20 I found where an extra nut goes that I had left over after I took the Big Rocking Arm off, put a butane torch to it and bent the circular end to the angle it needs to be. I put it all back together and wondered where in the Sam Hill that extra nut came off of. Thanks to you I see now. It goes on the back of the bolt that fastens the Little Rocking Arm to the chassis! Delighted! I love these inexpensive machines because they are so cheap you don't have to be afraid of screwing up big time. Not to mention they really work nicely!
oh man, this video saved my bacon....many hours of struggling with timing, snapping thread all solved right here. Thanks a million man. It's all in the cams!!
Bought one, was shocked at the condition it arrived in. Took many, many hours buffing, polishing, stripping and re-painting every single piece. Put it all back together and got piles and piles of snapped threads. I then carefully watched your videos and carefully set it up so that everything mirrored yours down to the bends in the thread guides on the tension wheels. It finally works! It hums and clicks so precisely the audio pleasure alone made the project worth it. Thanks much!
I think that I finally got my machine working, a month later. I have watch and watched all your videos and I figured out what todo. I took it aprt watching that video and then this one and got it to work!! thanks for the videos!!
Thanks to folks like you this cheap chinese machine has the most setup and maintenance videos from all patchers! They should probably pay you....coz this made me to order mine.
@@MainelyAcresFarmBrooks I watched so many of your videos without even having the machine so I felt I should order it....we will see how it goes. I was originally eyeballing 29K but having all your videos I can absolutely debug the chinese one better than singer - not to mention that people want arm and leg for 29k over here. Only issue is that 2 day shipping from amazon now means 3 weeks....
All your videos have been very helpful. Thanks. One of the challenges I had was getting a nice straight stitch on a long run like a belt. My solution was to clamp on a straight edge as a guide. Make a test run on scrap to make sure your line is straight and you are good to go.
Thank you for all the videos on this machine. I haven't received mine yet, just studying up before hand. Stumbled onto your stuff & think it's great. Keep it up & thanks again.
This was a great video. I bought one of these and need to set it up. Knowing how to get the timing right and how to disassemble and assemble it is key. Thanks for your time and effort. God bless you and yours
Greetings to you & family. I thank you for making this video, because I was intending to buy one of these machines for sewing leather crafts. I'd read many reviews that said it came disassembled, covered in grease, rough manufacturing & hard to set up right. Well thanks to you, I can now feel comfortable enough to buy one knowing what i'm up against & to easily deal with the assembly stage & set up. Thank you again. Peace & One Love from UK.
Thanks, haven't got mine yet but cant wait to break it down and refine it, tune it in and make some stitches. I'm seeing projects all over since ordering.
ive just ordered one, i am an engineer and have seen some good ideas UA-camrs have upgraded these machines, quite a lot have had what could have been brilliant Mods, but the lack of engineering skills and knowledge have missed the finishing touches, I've just noticed the foot movement has a drop in the motion that maybe smoothed out by reshaping the cam guide on the back of the main pully, so i will wait till mine arrives then i will make the mechanics smooth like a Rolls-Royce, with a finish equal to the glass varnish teak on a classic yacht, with a different approach in motor drive and maybe a couple of other user-friendly control ideas if what i have fits, lol while we have got nothing to do and being a magpie that cannot stand seeing things dumped, so at 55 ive got loads cus i never find a use for any of it,LOL Take care all, every now and then something usefull comes out of China,
I like your finishing touches comment. It's always nice to have a smooth operation pc of machinery. ( third generation Tinner w/55 years in the Sheet Metal trades). Please drop me a line when you get your machine and the upgrades you make to it. Mine is due to arrive sometime next week. I hope! Take care. Roger A.
Thank you for the video I took my sewing bar off and the P arm out and the part with the bearing attached to it. I was hoping to see that part in this video😢. Having trouble getting it all back running smoothly. Can’t get it to pick up the bobbin thread. I’ve watched your videos about this…still trying things.😢🤷🏻🤦🏻
My tension disk/ leaper bracket arrived out of the box with a slight bend, is this supposed to be straight? I appreciate your help and thank you for your video!
It’s strange. My machine which I recently bought (4/2023), the green one, has different settings for the cams. Way different. The inner cam has the round side almost vertically, with the flat past horizontal, not evenly set from the top, as you show it. The bearing cam is set so that that screw is somewhat between the screws of the other cam. Other adjustments for the shuttle are a bit different as well, yet, the machine works well. Interestingly, one vendor has a video showing only the rear thread tensioner in use, saying that the other is just a spare. Additionally, it’s almost impossible to set tension accurately in the shuttle. I’ve bought a load of spare parts from the website, and Amazon carries a pack of 5 shuttles, spools and carriers for $23-26. I’m not sure if that includes the springs and screws. What I’ve done is to loosen the screw until tension is correct and used a small dab of clear fingernail varnish to prevent it from moving. I’ve done that with several shuttles with the Tex size then marked on that shuttle. That solves the problem nicely. No more playing around with it. I’ve done a number of other mods as well. Like you, I put spacers between the painted aluminum body and the moving arms. Instead of steel, which will gouge after time, I put Oilite washers there, 1/32” thick. I put one on the foot lift arm as well. I also rounded off the tip where it first hits the arm. I then spot welded a piece to the end of the lever, extending it by 1.25” for better leverage, as it’s really too great. I’ve done a few other things such as grinding down the ends of a couple of the arms where they look very rough from the torch cuts. I like the bearing added to yours, and I’m going to do that as well. Mine has a sealed one in the casting now, and that sleeve bearing on the far end as well. No like that. Lastly I’m going to motorize it too. I bought a 1hp sewing machine servo and digital control with readout. Tremendous control with that. The small motors don’t have enough torque if you start with the cam just before it engages, and will stall on slow speeds. A bunch of guys used similar ones, and they work well. Thanks for these videos. I’ve found them to be really helpful.
@@MainelyAcresFarmBrooks this is a great machine. But it can be improved. I’m finished with the base I made for this. What I did to get proper slow speeds, was to machine a 8.25” aluminum part to fit over the iron wheel. I removed the center from the aluminum. I then took that whole thing, with the aluminum screwed to the iron one and put it into my lathe and made a “V” pulley out of it. . What I did with the power was to use a compound pulley system. The 2.” pulley on the motor, which I bought on Amazon went to a 9.50 iron pulley. On that shaft I have the original motor pulley. That goes up to the 9.25” pulley on the sewing machine. So at the slowest motor speed of 400 rpm, I get a 20 to one reduction. That gives me one stitch every three seconds. At 3,000, the highest the motor is set for, I get 150 stitches per minute. That’s a major range, and more than enough for anything. I wish I could send pictures, but that doesn’t seem to be allowed by eBay.
Thanks for all the technical videos they are helping a great deal. I just received mine at Christmas, in the last week I've spent time polishing different items and getting rid of burrs and machine marks. But I got the timing set to see if I could run a few stitches before I started that process. But what I ended up finding was my presser foot was trying to move the leather before the needle was out of the stitch. Now that I'm reassembling the head I see, at tleast from what I can tell in this video that my ring on the presser foot rod is bent at a downward angle and when you swivel the head the foot changes height by an 1/8 or better. Can you confirm that the presser foot bar should be at a parallel level in relation to the top on the swivel head, or is a 1/8th to 3/16" difference front to back(where the ring mounts to the arm and to where the left most side of the ring sits at the head) ok?
Thank you so much for making these videos and sharing your passion and knowledge, you’ve got me into a new hobby 👍🏻😊 I’m in the UK and my machine arrived a few days ago! It definitely had some bad timing issues straight out of the box so after watching your great videos I thought what the heck and stripped it down, it’s a fun project smoothing off the rough edges and getting it prepped for reassembly (looking forward to that part) it’s had a new paint job too 😄 Thanks to this video I’m confident I can get the timing sorted out now. Best wishes to you and your family and I hope you’re feeling better, take care 👍🏻
I've got one of these machines, have cleaned up everything got it timed, just waiting on some decent thread and needles, I faced off both sides of my crank, to get them parallel, and the rear smoother for less wear on the rollers, and got the circumference concentric as well. I left the mass of iron, to see how it sews, as there are hard and easy parts of each stitch, and I was wondering if you'd noted any difference, better or worse, having lightened that wheel. Sorry to hear about your back, will keep you in my prayers myself, let us see how you like your machine as you use it, cleaned up and hopefully smoother, easier to stitch with.
@@cluek9780 Hi, I learned it from my mom's sewing machine, the timing cam always slipped it's set screw until I put a flat on it, in my teens. When the needle goes all the way down, (with your bobbin cover open to watch the bobbin, carrier, reference to the needle), at bottom, it moves up very slightly, that is to form a loop in the needle thread, on the back side, your right, facing the machine, to allow the polished and smoothed pointy end of the bobbin carrier to easily slip in that loop, and rotate, while the needle remains stationary, the walking foot lifts, and moves ahead, meanwhile, the needle thread has slipped around the bobbin carrier, while it reverse rotates, and the needle thread slips past the bobbin carrier, in the loose space, the rattle, and is pulled up tight by the tall top lever only the thread goes through, and the tensioner(s), providing tension to pull the needle thread tight against the locking thread from the bobbin. The needle has a shallow "groove" about the width of that pointy part of the bobbin carrier, and it's there the loop is supposed to for, during that short little jog, of the needle. I accidentally dumped my bobbin carrier out, and ended up moving the crank to get an "empty needle" down, past the bottom, to the beginning of the hesitation, and dropping the bobbin carrier carrier, with the pinion beneath, and wiggling it till the pointy end was right on the edge of entering the needle, and dropping down in the gear rack that oscillates the bobbin, carrier and such. With the bobbin cover open, carrier in place, as the needle goes down past the carrier, the pointy end ought to arrive at that tiny trough in the needle, and move into it, (imaginary picking up the loop of needle thread), turning well past the needle, about two thirds of a turn, at which point the needle should be moving up behind the thread being yanked taut. If you get the pointy end right about there, you can't be far off timing, either way, if it's less than a tooth, you can loosen up the two bolts, and slide the rack while keeping the crank in place, needle not moving. Hope this helps, I'll answer anything I can. Semper Fidelis
Howdy John, I removed the extra weight off the flywheel to balance it. My dad had a small metal lathe so we had to do that to be able to cut the groove in for the belt. As far as noticing a difference... I can't say I noticed anything. I am in the process of making a video going over what I modified and polished to make my machine run so smoothly. Thanks for commenting
Hello Harrison, thanks a lot for your helpful videos. While reassembling the machine i questioned myself if it makes sense to lubricte the grooves in the flywheel?! Whats your opinion on that? Of course it makes sense to lubricate metal to metal contact, but is it likely that the bearings tend to sliding instead of rolling by lubricating?? thanks again ;)
Can you show how to set up the bobbin cases and the part just under the bobbin , the sprocket gear . I’m always having trouble getting the two to lineup
Hi. The reason I have got into crafting is because I suffered a brain haemorrhage 10 years ago and blood entered my spine and mixed with my CSF which made the blood clot. These clots are lodged in my lower spine and in a position that is too dangerous for surgery. Over the last 10 years I have had to watch my legs get worse and worse to the point where I am in a wheelchair permanently. Enough about my troubles. I have been hand sewing leather for a couple of years now. I have been looking at stitching machines but the trouble is I have no control over my feet so foot pedals would be out. Came across your video and the Chinese machine fits the bill. I have watched hours of Videos before deciding to get one which came today. It came with some needles which are for small thread. I am using the 1mm coloured, waxed thread and the needles I use for hand sewing have a large eye. I want to carry on using the coloured threads as it is a great contrast against the leather. Can you recommend a needle that I can use. Thanks
Thank you for commenting and sharing your story. It's not recommended using waxed threads on these machines. The tension disks and the tension spring on the bobbin get gummed up. You can try using a size 21 or 22 needle, but I think you will run into tension issues. They make colored thread in bonded nylon too, that would be a better choice. I hope this helps
I enjoyed your video I have not received my machine as yet I am a 38-year veteran on sewing machine repair so I appreciate somebody showing me how to do this cuz I've never seen one before I would like to note however that when I saw your walking foot walk it seems to Lunge forward as it goes down on the plate I suspect the timing might not be properly done because the foot should come down and move to the back did you correct that? Just making sure thanks once again
My machine was set up that way when I bought it and I have never had any issues sewing. I think that's the way they are meant to run, or at least I thought that was the case. Send me another comment when you get yours up and running and let me know if that's wrong. Thanks for commenting!!
I noticed that your upper tension disks are mounted to the take up arm mounting plate in one of the 5 holes , instead of the tension disks being mounted into a threaded hole in the cast iron main frame just above the lower tension disks, which is how mine came shipped from Bantam Saddle & Tack. I was wondering what the reason is for that change of location ? Thank You
What is the brand cobbler machine you are using? I bought a green one and it appears to be either used and not working and sent back and resold to me, or bent and damaged during shipping. Definitely not a free moving machine.
Help. I have taken my machine apart and cleaned it. Not the first time I have taken it apart. Now the needle will not engage the bobbin. The needle hits the top of the bobbin. I have checked the timing and it seems ok. I have loosened the screws on the bottom of the bobbin I and tried to adjust the Pittman bar along with the bobbin shuttle. Can you help?
I have a problem I cant find an answer to, please help. My bobin drive slipped where the 2 nuts connect the 2 parts together. The nuts came loose and it slid and I cant get the timing right out at the bobin end of the drive. If someone could tell me the correct length of the complete bobin drive assembly I can get it back into operation. Thank you.
This video was very helpful. I was able to reassemble my machine. I still have the same problem though. My presser foot isn't "feeding" (moving) the leather. The needle just keeps piercing the same spot over and over. I don't know what to do.
I can’t seem to get the head assembly back correctly the the foot moves but the other bar sticks ,I striped the machine down as even after your tutorial on lifting the bobbin it still didn’t work so stripped the machine and now the head wont move the other issue I had was when I first got the machine last week I thought I had it set correctly it would to 6 tight stitches then it would do a long stitch then carry on never realised how frustrating this machine is any help appreciated
Awesome videos. So sorry to hear about your losses and injury. My presser foot would not walk so using your videos I was able to disassemble and reassemble my machine. Unfortunately, my presser foot still will not walk. Any ideas what may be wrong? The bar with a slot in it that the disk slips in to and rides next to the presser foot only moves about an 1/8"
I unassembled and reassembled again, paying close attention to how the inner bar lies within the lower plate of the cylinder assembly, and the foot now walks! Thank you for your awesome videos. 'Extra support' shown on paypal.
Thank you so much for that extra support!!! I happy to hear you got your presser foot walking again. Another thing that could cause the presser foot to stop walking is the stitch adjustment screw. If you adjust it too far ether way it will stop the walking action.
Since you installed the lower arm before the assembly video, I have a question. I noticed when you disassembled the lower arm with the pitman arm there were teeth or a rack on the end where it meets the bobbin carrier. The bobbin carrier had teeth or what I would call the pinion. I would think that it is very important that when you drop the bobbin carrier in place that it meets the rack in the proper position or the timing may be off. I’m thinking the rack on the pitman bar running back to the cam on the flywheel must be in the proper position to mesh with the bobbin. I hope I’ve made myself clear so you can answer my questions. If not let me know. Thanks for your great videos on this machine, I’m sure anyone with one of these really appreciates your great videos. I’ve ordered a machine and I hope I never have to take it apart, but if I do your video will be a lifesaver. Thanks again, Dick
Mainely Acres Thank you for answering. So is there a correct position of the flywheel and a correct position of the bobbin carrier so that the bobbin is timed correctly with the needle?
My thread keeps breaking about a half inch after the needle. It don't pick up the bobbin thread and top thread keeps binding in the bobbin compartment, what should I try?
Question? The cams? Mine is new. You indicate that the set screws should be alingned? Mine are not, off maybe 1/16 or more. Have NOT used it yet. Still cleaning and assembling to a wood base. SHOULD the set scews be aligned? Thank you and BTW, awesome videos. Teaches alot
I would try it out before moving them, but yes my set screws line up in the two cams. If you need help adjusting them I can send you pictures via Facebook.
@@MainelyAcresFarmBrooks Great video's! I've been fighting with mine for a couple weeks.. my cam timing in relationship to the flywheel handle isn't even close to yours in the video.. Anymore detail in that area would be much appreciated! Thanks in advance!
buenas sr. harrison sabria desirme donde puedo com prar piezas de esta maquina tengo un problema con el muelle del prensatelas si por favor puede ayudarme le estaria eteramente agradecido mucas gracias ,Jesus
I’m on minute 21 of the video and having an issue getting my crank on. The part that goes in the inside track won’t slide back and forth so I can align it in the track. Any ideas on what it could be stuck on??
More than likely the pitman rod got bound up when you tightened the three bolts that hold the sewing arm in place. On my machine I can tighten the first two tight, but the last one needs to be a bit loose for the pitman rod to slide back in forth smoothly.
Hi, I just pulled my machine out, if you open your bobbin compartment, pull the bobbin and carrier out, and lift out the carrier with the pinion, you can run your needle all the way down to stop, and drop the carrier with the pinion straight down, with the "side wall" of it, centered on the needle. Drop in the bobbin carrier, empty, and watch the needle go down as you crank the wheel slowly, when the needle stops, the pointy end should not have moved yet, and be more than a quarter inch away. Turning the crank should have the needle steady, the bobbin carrier swing past, about 270 degrees, the needle beginning pulling up as the bobbin carrier begins to rotate at the same time as the needle moves up, pulling the thread tension up, the upper lever moving faster than the needle bar. The pointy end of the bobbin carrier should traverse past the needle, as your crank handle moves from four oclock past six, picking up the loop of needle thread. If you can get it doing that, you should at least be making stitches. Semper Fi
@@MainelyAcresFarmBrooks its great they have the parts,but i jusyt got a pack of needles and 2 replacement bobin tension screws and spring and they wanted 9 dollars for shipping!they could literally stick them in an envelope!anyway thanks for all you do man your the best.
Sorry about your health problems. It always seems like it comes in bursts. I had both knees done just over a year ago. Thankfully that went well. I had a nasty accident some years ago that broke pretty much everything (back, neck, pelvis, arm, leg bla bla bla.) I deal with the arthritis crap daily. Best advise I can give you is, don't baby yourself but don't overdo it either. Do what your Drs and therapist say and try to be good to yourself.
Hey there, I just put a 24 needle in my machine and it is too long. What is the maximum depth the needle should get pressed into next to the bobbin. I need to adjust the needle bar
Yes, you need to modify the needle bar to run the larger needle sizes. I think the HAx1 needle goes up to a size 23 without needed to modify the needle bar.
Upon reassembly when sewing leather, the underneath side has big loops and the stiches are loose with the bobbin thread going through the loose loops. It seems to be a tensioning problem. Do you think it is too loose bobbin tension or too loose upper thread tension? I intend on taking the bobbin shuttle leaf spring off, polishing it, rounding corners, and inspecting the bobbin thread holes in the shuttle for burrs. Any other ideas?
I watched your video to have a better understanding of the cobbler and i thought it was a great video, but i had the great idea to take it apart to clean and paint it. While cleaning, sanding and filing i saw that the "presser foot bar" not sure if that's what this is called its the one that determines stitch size, it wasn't flat so like a jackass i filed it and now the leather doesnt feed in the right direction. I've made a replacement but i cant seem to get the angle or shape correct. Can u send me a picture of your "presser foot bar" to compare. I cant find any pictures or the part to buy on line. It would be a great help to see an example. You can see my video to see exactly what I'm talking about Thank you.
Mainely Acres i had the bolt too tight. Thank you. I thought I was going to have to pay the $25 for a one on one.🤣🤣🤣🤣I watched every video you put out about them🤣😂😂😂
At 15:20 I found where an extra nut goes that I had left over after I took the Big Rocking Arm off, put a butane torch to it and bent the circular end to the angle it needs to be. I put it all back together and wondered where in the Sam Hill that extra nut came off of. Thanks to you I see now. It goes on the back of the bolt that fastens the Little Rocking Arm to the chassis! Delighted!
I love these inexpensive machines because they are so cheap you don't have to be afraid of screwing up big time. Not to mention they really work nicely!
I do appreciate your effort into putting this video together. Great help for those of us who are still new to this type of sewing machines.
My "Cobbler" is due to arrive tomorrow!....Your videos are some of the best I've found on the machine.
Awesome! Thank you!
oh man, this video saved my bacon....many hours of struggling with timing, snapping thread all solved right here. Thanks a million man. It's all in the cams!!
Happy to help
Bought one, was shocked at the condition it arrived in. Took many, many hours buffing, polishing, stripping and re-painting every single piece. Put it all back together and got piles and piles of snapped threads. I then carefully watched your videos and carefully set it up so that everything mirrored yours down to the bends in the thread guides on the tension wheels. It finally works! It hums and clicks so precisely the audio pleasure alone made the project worth it. Thanks much!
Thank you so much for all your help...Much appreciated from Canada
Thanks I’ll use the new knowledge.just bought two machines. Taking them to Mexico next week to teach leather to young students. Cheers
I think that I finally got my machine working, a month later. I have watch and watched all your videos and I figured out what todo. I took it aprt watching that video and then this one and got it to work!! thanks for the videos!!
Thanks to folks like you this cheap chinese machine has the most setup and maintenance videos from all patchers! They should probably pay you....coz this made me to order mine.
Wow, thanks!
@@MainelyAcresFarmBrooks I watched so many of your videos without even having the machine so I felt I should order it....we will see how it goes. I was originally eyeballing 29K but having all your videos I can absolutely debug the chinese one better than singer - not to mention that people want arm and leg for 29k over here. Only issue is that 2 day shipping from amazon now means 3 weeks....
All your videos have been very helpful. Thanks. One of the challenges I had was getting a nice straight stitch on a long run like a belt. My solution was to clamp on a straight edge as a guide. Make a test run on scrap to make sure your line is straight and you are good to go.
Thanks for sharing that helpful tip!!
Awesome demo of how the machine puts together. Thank You Sir
You are the best, very clear and understandable presentation. I wish you all the best and good health! Thank you! 👍👍👌👏
Thank you for all the videos on this machine. I haven't received mine yet, just studying up before hand. Stumbled onto your stuff & think it's great. Keep it up & thanks again.
Thank you for commenting and best of luck on your future sewing projects.
Thanks for this professional video performance! You are a great professional who passes on his skills to others !! 👍👍👏👌Thank you
Thank you very much!
Brilliant videos. Saved me on many occasions.
This was a great video. I bought one of these and need to set it up. Knowing how to get the timing right and how to disassemble and assemble it is key. Thanks for your time and effort. God bless you and yours
Glad it helped, blessing to you too
Greetings to you & family. I thank you for making this video, because I was intending to buy one of these machines for sewing leather crafts. I'd read many reviews that said it came disassembled, covered in grease, rough manufacturing & hard to set up right. Well thanks to you, I can now feel comfortable enough to buy one knowing what i'm up against & to easily deal with the assembly stage & set up. Thank you again.
Peace & One Love from UK.
Thank you for your wonderful comment!!
Another very helpful video. Thank you. Prayers for good health.
Thank you very much!!
Thanks, haven't got mine yet but cant wait to break it down and refine it, tune it in and make some stitches. I'm seeing projects all over since ordering.
Best of luck on those future projects, hit me up if you need any help.
ive just ordered one, i am an engineer and have seen some good ideas UA-camrs have upgraded these machines, quite a lot have had what could have been brilliant Mods, but the lack of engineering skills and knowledge have missed the finishing touches, I've just noticed the foot movement has a drop in the motion that maybe smoothed out by reshaping the cam guide on the back of the main pully, so i will wait till mine arrives then i will make the mechanics smooth like a Rolls-Royce, with a finish equal to the glass varnish teak on a classic yacht, with a different approach in motor drive and maybe a couple of other user-friendly control ideas if what i have fits, lol
while we have got nothing to do and being a magpie that cannot stand seeing things dumped, so at 55 ive got loads cus i never find a use for any of it,LOL
Take care all, every now and then something usefull comes out of China,
I like your finishing touches comment. It's always nice to have a smooth operation pc of machinery. ( third generation Tinner w/55 years in the Sheet Metal trades).
Please drop me a line when you get your machine and the upgrades you make to it.
Mine is due to arrive sometime next week. I hope! Take care. Roger A.
I would love to see any mods you make to your machine. I am always looking at way to improve my machine.
You helped me out thank you very much. Great video
Glad to hear it!
Hey brother good to see you making videos again. Cool info on your sewing machine. I hope everything is going well with your health. Take care.
I am doing well just taking things easy, well until I start physical therapy next week. LOL Happy Holidays to you and your family!!
Great videos!!1 Thanks for your help. They definitely help as there are no instructions with the machines. Great job!!!
Thanks for watching!
From the factory my cams are positioned different but it’s sewing so I don’t think I’ll mess with it unless I have to rebuild it in the future
Solid advice!!
Thank you for your efforts, useful and appreciated.
You are welcome!
Thank you for the video I took my sewing bar off and the P arm out and the part with the bearing attached to it. I was hoping to see that part in this video😢. Having trouble getting it all back running smoothly. Can’t get it to pick up the bobbin thread. I’ve watched your videos about this…still trying things.😢🤷🏻🤦🏻
Here is another video I did on assembly and making your machine run smooth: ua-cam.com/video/CnEiEGbwh3Y/v-deo.html
Great video> Thank you for your time.. My machine wont come till May some time but you sure are a ton of help
Awesome video . . . Thanks
My tension disk/ leaper bracket arrived out of the box with a slight bend, is this supposed to be straight? I appreciate your help and thank you for your video!
Yes, the slight bend is fine.
Excellent work, brother. Cheers from your friends in Detroit!
Much appreciated!
handy info for when mine shows up
Great video very helpful. Thanks. Keep up the great work.👍
Thanks!
It’s strange. My machine which I recently bought (4/2023), the green one, has different settings for the cams. Way different. The inner cam has the round side almost vertically, with the flat past horizontal, not evenly set from the top, as you show it. The bearing cam is set so that that screw is somewhat between the screws of the other cam. Other adjustments for the shuttle are a bit different as well, yet, the machine works well. Interestingly, one vendor has a video showing only the rear thread tensioner in use, saying that the other is just a spare.
Additionally, it’s almost impossible to set tension accurately in the shuttle. I’ve bought a load of spare parts from the website, and Amazon carries a pack of 5 shuttles, spools and carriers for $23-26. I’m not sure if that includes the springs and screws. What I’ve done is to loosen the screw until tension is correct and used a small dab of clear fingernail varnish to prevent it from moving. I’ve done that with several shuttles with the Tex size then marked on that shuttle. That solves the problem nicely. No more playing around with it.
I’ve done a number of other mods as well. Like you, I put spacers between the painted aluminum body and the moving arms. Instead of steel, which will gouge after time, I put Oilite washers there, 1/32” thick. I put one on the foot lift arm as well. I also rounded off the tip where it first hits the arm. I then spot welded a piece to the end of the lever, extending it by 1.25” for better leverage, as it’s really too great. I’ve done a few other things such as grinding down the ends of a couple of the arms where they look very rough from the torch cuts. I like the bearing added to yours, and I’m going to do that as well. Mine has a sealed one in the casting now, and that sleeve bearing on the far end as well. No like that. Lastly I’m going to motorize it too. I bought a 1hp sewing machine servo and digital control with readout. Tremendous control with that. The small motors don’t have enough torque if you start with the cam just before it engages, and will stall on slow speeds. A bunch of guys used similar ones, and they work well.
Thanks for these videos. I’ve found them to be really helpful.
Thank you for sharing your tips as well
@@MainelyAcresFarmBrooks this is a great machine. But it can be improved. I’m finished with the base I made for this. What I did to get proper slow speeds, was to machine a 8.25” aluminum part to fit over the iron wheel. I removed the center from the aluminum. I then took that whole thing, with the aluminum screwed to the iron one and put it into my lathe and made a “V” pulley out of it. . What I did with the power was to use a compound pulley system. The 2.” pulley on the motor, which I bought on Amazon went to a 9.50 iron pulley. On that shaft I have the original motor pulley. That goes up to the 9.25” pulley on the sewing machine. So at the slowest motor speed of 400 rpm, I get a 20 to one reduction. That gives me one stitch every three seconds. At 3,000, the highest the motor is set for, I get 150 stitches per minute. That’s a major range, and more than enough for anything. I wish I could send pictures, but that doesn’t seem to be allowed by eBay.
Excellent Video. Thank you much!
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for all the technical videos they are helping a great deal.
I just received mine at Christmas, in the last week I've spent time polishing different items and getting rid of burrs and machine marks. But I got the timing set to see if I could run a few stitches before I started that process.
But what I ended up finding was my presser foot was trying to move the leather before the needle was out of the stitch. Now that I'm reassembling the head I see, at tleast from what I can tell in this video that my ring on the presser foot rod is bent at a downward angle and when you swivel the head the foot changes height by an 1/8 or better.
Can you confirm that the presser foot bar should be at a parallel level in relation to the top on the swivel head, or is a 1/8th to 3/16" difference front to back(where the ring mounts to the arm and to where the left most side of the ring sits at the head) ok?
Hi yeah, both the rings on the end of the arms need to be 100% horizontal cos if not can alter foot height and stitch length, hope this helps.
Thank you so much for making these videos and sharing your passion and knowledge, you’ve got me into a new hobby 👍🏻😊 I’m in the UK and my machine arrived a few days ago! It definitely had some bad timing issues straight out of the box so after watching your great videos I thought what the heck and stripped it down, it’s a fun project smoothing off the rough edges and getting it prepped for reassembly (looking forward to that part) it’s had a new paint job too 😄 Thanks to this video I’m confident I can get the timing sorted out now. Best wishes to you and your family and I hope you’re feeling better, take care 👍🏻
Thank you so much for commenting!! Best of luck on your up coming projects.
I've got one of these machines, have cleaned up everything got it timed, just waiting on some decent thread and needles, I faced off both sides of my crank, to get them parallel, and the rear smoother for less wear on the rollers, and got the circumference concentric as well. I left the mass of iron, to see how it sews, as there are hard and easy parts of each stitch, and I was wondering if you'd noted any difference, better or worse, having lightened that wheel. Sorry to hear about your back, will keep you in my prayers myself, let us see how you like your machine as you use it, cleaned up and hopefully smoother, easier to stitch with.
Where’d you learn the timing? I’m getting frustrated with mine....
@@cluek9780 Hi, I learned it from my mom's sewing machine, the timing cam always slipped it's set screw until I put a flat on it, in my teens. When the needle goes all the way down, (with your bobbin cover open to watch the bobbin, carrier, reference to the needle), at bottom, it moves up very slightly, that is to form a loop in the needle thread, on the back side, your right, facing the machine, to allow the polished and smoothed pointy end of the bobbin carrier to easily slip in that loop, and rotate, while the needle remains stationary, the walking foot lifts, and moves ahead, meanwhile, the needle thread has slipped around the bobbin carrier, while it reverse rotates, and the needle thread slips past the bobbin carrier, in the loose space, the rattle, and is pulled up tight by the tall top lever only the thread goes through, and the tensioner(s), providing tension to pull the needle thread tight against the locking thread from the bobbin. The needle has a shallow "groove" about the width of that pointy part of the bobbin carrier, and it's there the loop is supposed to for, during that short little jog, of the needle. I accidentally dumped my bobbin carrier out, and ended up moving the crank to get an "empty needle" down, past the bottom, to the beginning of the hesitation, and dropping the bobbin carrier carrier, with the pinion beneath, and wiggling it till the pointy end was right on the edge of entering the needle, and dropping down in the gear rack that oscillates the bobbin, carrier and such. With the bobbin cover open, carrier in place, as the needle goes down past the carrier, the pointy end ought to arrive at that tiny trough in the needle, and move into it, (imaginary picking up the loop of needle thread), turning well past the needle, about two thirds of a turn, at which point the needle should be moving up behind the thread being yanked taut. If you get the pointy end right about there, you can't be far off timing, either way, if it's less than a tooth, you can loosen up the two bolts, and slide the rack while keeping the crank in place, needle not moving. Hope this helps, I'll answer anything I can. Semper Fidelis
Howdy John, I removed the extra weight off the flywheel to balance it. My dad had a small metal lathe so we had to do that to be able to cut the groove in for the belt. As far as noticing a difference... I can't say I noticed anything. I am in the process of making a video going over what I modified and polished to make my machine run so smoothly. Thanks for commenting
Hello Harrison,
thanks a lot for your helpful videos.
While reassembling the machine i questioned myself if it makes sense to lubricte the grooves in the flywheel?!
Whats your opinion on that?
Of course it makes sense to lubricate metal to metal contact, but is it likely that the bearings tend to sliding instead of rolling by lubricating??
thanks again ;)
Can you show how to set up the bobbin cases and the part just under the bobbin , the sprocket gear . I’m always having trouble getting the two to lineup
Hi. The reason I have got into crafting is because I suffered a brain haemorrhage 10 years ago and blood entered my spine and mixed with my CSF which made the blood clot. These clots are lodged in my lower spine and in a position that is too dangerous for surgery. Over the last 10 years I have had to watch my legs get worse and worse to the point where I am in a wheelchair permanently. Enough about my troubles. I have been hand sewing leather for a couple of years now. I have been looking at stitching machines but the trouble is I have no control over my feet so foot pedals would be out. Came across your video and the Chinese machine fits the bill. I have watched hours of Videos before deciding to get one which came today. It came with some needles which are for small thread. I am using the 1mm coloured, waxed thread and the needles I use for hand sewing have a large eye. I want to carry on using the coloured threads as it is a great contrast against the leather. Can you recommend a needle that I can use. Thanks
Thank you for commenting and sharing your story. It's not recommended using waxed threads on these machines. The tension disks and the tension spring on the bobbin get gummed up. You can try using a size 21 or 22 needle, but I think you will run into tension issues. They make colored thread in bonded nylon too, that would be a better choice. I hope this helps
Also God bless you, I'll be praying for you.
Thank you!! Blessing to you and yours as well.
Welcome back bud
Thanks, it feels good to be back at it!!
I enjoyed your video I have not received my machine as yet I am a 38-year veteran on sewing machine repair so I appreciate somebody showing me how to do this cuz I've never seen one before I would like to note however that when I saw your walking foot walk it seems to Lunge forward as it goes down on the plate I suspect the timing might not be properly done because the foot should come down and move to the back did you correct that? Just making sure thanks once again
My machine was set up that way when I bought it and I have never had any issues sewing. I think that's the way they are meant to run, or at least I thought that was the case. Send me another comment when you get yours up and running and let me know if that's wrong. Thanks for commenting!!
This would probably be better than just flat washer frictions
Awesome Tip!!
I noticed that your upper tension disks are mounted to the take up arm mounting plate in one of the 5 holes , instead of the tension disks being mounted into a threaded hole in the cast iron main frame just above the lower tension disks, which is how mine came shipped from Bantam Saddle & Tack.
I was wondering what the reason is for that change of location ? Thank You
That's the way it came. My machine did not come with an extra hole above the lower tension disks.
What is the brand cobbler machine you are using? I bought a green one and it appears to be either used and not working and sent back and resold to me, or bent and damaged during shipping. Definitely not a free moving machine.
I bought my machine from Bantam Saddle tack here in the states.
Help. I have taken my machine apart and cleaned it. Not the first time I have taken it apart. Now the needle will not engage the bobbin. The needle hits the top of the bobbin. I have checked the timing and it seems ok. I have loosened the screws on the bottom of the bobbin I and tried to adjust the Pittman bar along with the bobbin shuttle. Can you help?
You will need to loosen the three bolts under the sewing arm to realign the needle to the bobbin hole.
I have a problem I cant find an answer to, please help. My bobin drive slipped where the 2 nuts connect the 2 parts together. The nuts came loose and it slid and I cant get the timing right out at the bobin end of the drive. If someone could tell me the correct length of the complete bobin drive assembly I can get it back into operation. Thank you.
This video might help out: ua-cam.com/video/YjdcY2ppxxM/v-deo.html
This video was very helpful. I was able to reassemble my machine. I still have the same problem though. My presser foot isn't "feeding" (moving) the leather. The needle just keeps piercing the same spot over and over. I don't know what to do.
Is your machine OK yet?
If your still having issues it may be the stitch adjustment screw. It's ether too tight or too loose.
@@michaelthorpe7211 Problem solved. Thanks! It was the rod which rubs against the presser foot. It had to be realigned.
Good deal, I am happy you were able to figure it out!!
@@MainelyAcresFarmBrooks Thanks! I love these videos. They're very helpful.
I can’t seem to get the head assembly back correctly the the foot moves but the other bar sticks ,I striped the machine down as even after your tutorial on lifting the bobbin it still didn’t work so stripped the machine and now the head wont move the other issue I had was when I first got the machine last week I thought I had it set correctly it would to 6 tight stitches then it would do a long stitch then carry on never realised how frustrating this machine is any help appreciated
Thank you.
Gracias amigo muchas gracias
no problema mi amigo
Awesome videos. So sorry to hear about your losses and injury. My presser foot would not walk so using your videos I was able to disassemble and reassemble my machine. Unfortunately, my presser foot still will not walk. Any ideas what may be wrong? The bar with a slot in it that the disk slips in to and rides next to the presser foot only moves about an 1/8"
I unassembled and reassembled again, paying close attention to how the inner bar lies within the lower plate of the cylinder assembly, and the foot now walks! Thank you for your awesome videos. 'Extra support' shown on paypal.
Thank you so much for that extra support!!! I happy to hear you got your presser foot walking again. Another thing that could cause the presser foot to stop walking is the stitch adjustment screw. If you adjust it too far ether way it will stop the walking action.
Since you installed the lower arm before the assembly video, I have a question.
I noticed when you disassembled the lower arm with the pitman arm there were teeth or a rack on the end where it meets the bobbin carrier. The bobbin carrier had teeth or what I would call the pinion. I would think that it is very important that when you drop the bobbin carrier in place that it meets the rack in the proper position or the timing may be off. I’m thinking the rack on the pitman bar running back to the cam on the flywheel must be in the proper position to mesh with the bobbin.
I hope I’ve made myself clear so you can answer my questions. If not let me know.
Thanks for your great videos on this machine, I’m sure anyone with one of these really appreciates your great videos. I’ve ordered a machine and I hope I never have to take it apart, but if I do your video will be a lifesaver.
Thanks again,
Dick
Yes, it is important that the pittman rod and bobbin carrier meet up correctly.
Mainely Acres
Thank you for answering. So is there a correct position of the flywheel and a correct position of the bobbin carrier so that the bobbin is timed correctly with the needle?
Yes, you can find that here: ua-cam.com/video/tWgxzSCZxrQ/v-deo.html. If that doesn't help feel free to send another comment.
My thread keeps breaking about a half inch after the needle. It don't pick up the bobbin thread and top thread keeps binding in the bobbin compartment, what should I try?
Question? The cams? Mine is new. You indicate that the set screws should be alingned? Mine are not, off maybe 1/16 or more. Have NOT used it yet. Still cleaning and assembling to a wood base. SHOULD the set scews be aligned? Thank you and BTW, awesome videos. Teaches alot
I would try it out before moving them, but yes my set screws line up in the two cams. If you need help adjusting them I can send you pictures via Facebook.
@@MainelyAcresFarmBrooks Great video's!
I've been fighting with mine for a couple weeks.. my cam timing in relationship to the flywheel handle isn't even close to yours in the video.. Anymore detail in that area would be much appreciated!
Thanks in advance!
buenas sr. harrison sabria desirme donde puedo com prar piezas de esta maquina tengo un problema con el muelle del prensatelas si por favor puede ayudarme le estaria eteramente agradecido mucas gracias ,Jesus
How do I replace the pitman rod ball bearings. Mine decentergrated after I put a motor on the sewing machine
I would try Matt over at Bantam Saddle and Tack
@@MainelyAcresFarmBrooks called him, he was awesome
My presser foot stopped pulling material forward. Any ideas to fix this?
I wonder if there's a market for finishing these machines. Buy a new machine and just tare it apart, fix and polish everything.
YES!!! There would be a large market
WHERE does the thread spool that the pictures show on top toward back of machine go??? I can fine NO WAY to attache it.... thanks, Eric
I’m on minute 21 of the video and having an issue getting my crank on. The part that goes in the inside track won’t slide back and forth so I can align it in the track. Any ideas on what it could be stuck on??
More than likely the pitman rod got bound up when you tightened the three bolts that hold the sewing arm in place. On my machine I can tighten the first two tight, but the last one needs to be a bit loose for the pitman rod to slide back in forth smoothly.
Followed your video about tear down and reassembly but now my presser foot won't move forward or backwards. Just straight up and down Sir .
Got mine 3 days ago, still cleaning, timing etc., as it has YET to make a single line of stitching (!)
Hi, I just pulled my machine out, if you open your bobbin compartment, pull the bobbin and carrier out, and lift out the carrier with the pinion, you can run your needle all the way down to stop, and drop the carrier with the pinion straight down, with the "side wall" of it, centered on the needle. Drop in the bobbin carrier, empty, and watch the needle go down as you crank the wheel slowly, when the needle stops, the pointy end should not have moved yet, and be more than a quarter inch away. Turning the crank should have the needle steady, the bobbin carrier swing past, about 270 degrees, the needle beginning pulling up as the bobbin carrier begins to rotate at the same time as the needle moves up, pulling the thread tension up, the upper lever moving faster than the needle bar. The pointy end of the bobbin carrier should traverse past the needle, as your crank handle moves from four oclock past six, picking up the loop of needle thread. If you can get it doing that, you should at least be making stitches. Semper Fi
@@johnmcclain3887 Thanks for the info! Will implement ASAP
i cant find your video where you talked about where to get replacement parts.can you tell me the name of the site again?
Bantam Saddle Tack
@@MainelyAcresFarmBrooks its great they have the parts,but i jusyt got a pack of needles and 2 replacement bobin tension screws and spring and they wanted 9 dollars for shipping!they could literally stick them in an envelope!anyway thanks for all you do man your the best.
Que linha devo usar pra costurar couro ?
Sorry about your health problems. It always seems like it comes in bursts. I had both knees done just over a year ago. Thankfully that went well. I had a nasty accident some years ago that broke pretty much everything (back, neck, pelvis, arm, leg bla bla bla.) I deal with the arthritis crap daily. Best advise I can give you is, don't baby yourself but don't overdo it either. Do what your Drs and therapist say and try to be good to yourself.
Very good advice!!! Gotta keep moving or things will lock up
Hey there, I just put a 24 needle in my machine and it is too long. What is the maximum depth the needle should get pressed into next to the bobbin. I need to adjust the needle bar
Yes, you need to modify the needle bar to run the larger needle sizes. I think the HAx1 needle goes up to a size 23 without needed to modify the needle bar.
Okay
Upon reassembly when sewing leather, the underneath side has big loops and the stiches are loose with the bobbin thread going through the loose loops. It seems to be a tensioning problem. Do you think it is too loose bobbin tension or too loose upper thread tension? I intend on taking the bobbin shuttle leaf spring off, polishing it, rounding corners, and inspecting the bobbin thread holes in the shuttle for burrs. Any other ideas?
Your top tension needs to be adjusted tighter.
Where do you order parts for my ironwall
www.bantamsaddletack.com/Sewing-Machinery_c_20.html
My stitches look slanted. What causes that.. how to fix it.
I watched your video to have a better understanding of the cobbler and i thought it was a great video, but i had the great idea to take it apart to clean and paint it. While cleaning, sanding and filing i saw that the "presser foot bar" not sure if that's what this is called its the one that determines stitch size, it wasn't flat so like a jackass i filed it and now the leather doesnt feed in the right direction. I've made a replacement but i cant seem to get the angle or shape correct. Can u send me a picture of your "presser foot bar" to compare. I cant find any pictures or the part to buy on line. It would be a great help to see an example. You can see my video to see exactly what I'm talking about
Thank you.
Find us on Facebook so I can send you a picture
I'm the 233rd like! No dislikes! Great video! How did your back surgery go? Thanks brother!!!
Thank you for commenting!! I thought the surgery went well, but now I am having more issues and going back to the surgeon this Wednesday
Does anyone have a link to where I can buy one?
You can find these on Amazon, eBay, Aliexpress, and more
Is there a way to get the barrel of directions not to be too loose cuz it moves a lot when I'm stitching, any suggestions?
I would take apart the sewing head and de-bur/smoothen up all riding surfaces.
how can I get a longer shaft for the flywheel. I want to put pulley there.
Thanks
You will need to make one. I have plans if you're interested.
Where did you machine
Bantam Saddle Tack
New viewers need to know that he has since changed his timing of the cams on back; look for a more-recent vid for that
Thank you for that!!
I did the modifications and I can’t get my walking foot to go down tight. Can you help me please?
I don’t know if I have a my needle bar set correct.
I would need to see your machine to tell you if it's set correctly.
Mainely Acres i had the bolt too tight. Thank you. I thought I was going to have to pay the $25 for a one on one.🤣🤣🤣🤣I watched every video you put out about them🤣😂😂😂
I can't find the link to this exact machine 😫... hellllp
www.bantamsaddletack.com/Hand-Crank-Patcher-Sewing-Machine-Deluxe-Package_p_39.html
How much is the chat?
25$ an hour
É tanta coisa em cima da mesa que não dá nem pra ver o vídeo com clareza !!!
Sent you an email on the issue I am having with my machine
I got your message and I sent my reply. Let me know if that fixes your issues.
the one thing i needed to know and you skipped right over it, gaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaah , great vid otherwise thanks
Sorry about that
These Machines are Chinese JUNK....Do not buy any of this crap.
thank you
You're welcome