This is a masterful demonstration of a practical skill, with maximum content, with minimal ( NO ) verbalization to confuse the presentation. This is a fantastic show of using maximum skill, and minimum equipment to preform a precision task. I love your crank test stand, a work of art, all on it's own. Your photography is magnificent, and shows everything needed perfectly !!! Congratulations !!! Tim
@@ronnieboucherthecrystalcraftsm Hi, Ronnie I am wondering about the comment you just sent me ??? Why would you assume that I don't know much about engine assembly ??? Base upon my positive comment about Paul Xs' display of expertise. Tim
i watch your videos from many years ago , all jobs you make are a masterclass demostration of "how to do" many fixes , i've learned a lot from you and your videos man ... cheers from mexico !
Amazing that the press plug is good enough to lock it all down. Also amazed the builder left all the rust/corrosion on the crank. Could be that it looks worse on camera.
Excellent Job Brother!! Our Royal Enfield 500 and 350 engines have similar crank pin.. I had changed the same in my Royal Enfield 500. Unfortunately, many riders of Royal Enfield experience the same problem. Watching this could perhaps enable them to know the delicacy of this job..
You really should indicate the crank Futher away from the roller bearings to get a more accurate reading. The ends can have alot of runout and only show little next to the bearings. Anyway nice video and good job.
@@PaulXchannel you read your dial indicators at the main bearing journals just like you did it or you are wasting your timid if you don't !!! It doesn't hurt to check the further trueness of the drive socket side and the opinion side shafts but run out at the main bearings to get it right must be set at "0" zero .and check out Precision balancing Company of Indianapolis Indiana.. Where you can send your crankshaft zeroed out with no rods attached piscina near-complete rotating assembly and they will weigh out each part in one gram and send you a paper on that Daniel take a shot box fastened to your crankshaft and fill it with chhatre exactly what your rotating assembly will weigh Alan Hale spend balance it to whatever RPM you want to run as maximum on your engine build and betting you won't believe the difference it makes as the front tire will not jump up and down on the pavement anymore when it's idling and when your roll it on it won't feel like a Harley anymore it feels smoother than a Japanese bike and you'll gain a whole bunch more power as there's no more inertia of a crankshaft trying to come out but just rolling free and balanced. I don't need to tell you that Harley doesn't have time to do all this and still sell a motorcycle at the price they do as no other manufacturer does either. Manufactures build a perfectly balanced engine to start with as a prototype and then copy all the parts and weights after that and if it's balanced fine if it's not shakes little bit so what
If you do it your way the main bearings can have some hop and wobble in them at least about a thousands or even more and you're wasting your time ...if the sprocket Shaft or the pinion shaft is wobbling after you have true the main bearing journals get new parts and do it again
@@nikolaiownz ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,why dont paulx reply to the question.................................................................................................
I developed a method where the wheels are trued zero while pressed them together without hitting them with a copper hammer and truing them. Also why did you not replace pinion shaft when it was apart for a new bearing surface and oiling upgrade?
Its only a 3 piece crank. To change out the pinion or sprocket shaft you have to change that wheel/crank half. The shafts are made as part of the crank assembly. The old/shovel head, panhead, knucklehead, sporty cranks were good stuff. Not garbage like twin cam door weights.
Good job. Nice centering attachement. No need of use hammer for truing if use bush type Crank assembling fixtures. Perfect well done. Please upload video about cylinder head valve seat repair. Thanks
Excellent! thanks for sharing your knowledge. I only have one question: What is the cover you put on the pin for, at the end of the video? Thank you very much for answering!
If you would have used a positioning jig you could have eliminated the hammering. You still would want to check it for position. But a great job none the less. Also you need to face grind that Hammer. The way it is now it could spit something at your eyes.
It's old school, but the beauty of it is in it's absolute simplicity. Harley motors are not high tech, however, they are reliable for this one simple reason. Where most motors are permanently and irreversibly damaged, a Harley motor can be repaired. By design it is almost impossible for a common crank pin motor to throw a connecting rod. You may lose the bearings, or the motor may break a wrist pin, but it won't throw a connecting rod, the modularity of the motor also aides in it's robust and endlessly repairable nature.
Every $10,000 motocross engine of all 2020 to as far back as 1968 japanese dirt bikes all ktm dirt bikes all new maico everything is made exactly like this harley and you need to go to and eye doctor and get new glasses cause you got double double vision and no depth perception 1970 shovel head was a 5 piece crank the evos were 3 piece and this is a twin cam that is a two piece ...those bearing are much bigger than those in a drive shaft as if they were actual needle bearings as you claim they are would not last three hours ....So tell me so everyone else will know and exactly why that front rod and the center of the crank pin failed and the rear female rod and both ends of the crank pin still look brand new ..and if you dont come with the correct answer you are just another flilthy scum bucket harley hater who just wants to put harley out of business to make harder for me to own them just for your spite ;
Nice job and awesome video. I’m kind of shocked those cranks would ever stay true from the factory, considering the load on just a press fit. A taper fit and a nut, or welding the pin to the flywheels I’d think would be more solid.
I would think that after the crank is centered and placed in the case supported by the main bearings, there is no place for the crank to twist out of center. If it does then I expect that you have many other problems to worry about.
@@peejay6855 Yeah, the bearings support the crank, but it wouldn’t have to flex much to end up with runout that could damage gear drive cam or even the oil pump.
They have a pretty tight interference fit from the factory, there used to be promotional video's about it with the special 150 ton press HD developed. It's supposed to take a minimum of 50 tons to put them together but I have heard many are around 20 tons? I've done hundreds of the taper pin/nutted HD cranks but always kept away from the pressed up ones.
Yea a lot of companies do press and weld them with a bigger pin Harley should’ve done that to begin with like they did before and they did on early twin cam for few years than trying to save little money they did the pressing it’s crazy the runout they have on some
Nice..... I have been playing with smaller cranks than this but I have been warming the cranks in a "deepfat fryer" up to 150 C.... the cold pins go in with hand force..
What are your thoughts on welding the shaft that you pressed in to the flywheel assembly that holds the bearings/rods? I know people do it to prevent runout on high RPM builds and I want to have a nice reliable xr1200/xb12 crank built for my Sportster build to handle a beating. Your work is amazing!
@@PaulXchannel you can weld a quarter round the crank pin to the fly wheels so it can never slip .and use a tig welder for a very small and narrow bead and not much penetration so it can be ground off with a die grinder. For future overhauls ..of the last of the all roller cranks from Suzuki came factory welded pins as a lot of them were twisting cranks at the midnight drags in the ghetto on 36th street Indy back then
Best thing for a reliable Sportster is keep it between 2,000rpm and 6,000rpm and don't fit drag pipes as they lose power being designed to work at 9,000rpm on XR 750
The scarred crank pin may be caused by not enough oil being circulated, idk. I've read that some people balk at Twin Cam motors due to their supposed unreliability. If you're going to overhaul one you might as well swap the chain-driven cam assembly with a set of gear-driven ones as cam chain tensioners on them do have a litany of issues.
При такому способі центрування,лапки індикатора треба ставити на кінці вала!!На відео видно неозброєним оком що вал ще потрібно центрувати,биття там більше десятки.Вага вашого молоточка замала для такого колінвала.Я сам колись ремонтував колінвали ... Гарний у Вас контент,успіхів!
Check out Precision balance Company of Indianapolis Indiana ...37 years ago I built my first Harley engine that was an FLH 74 cubic inch and I had Precision balance Company of Indianapolis Indiana spin balance the crankshaft as you have to have your crank Wheels together and zeroed out before you taking there and they actually spin balance the crank with the weight of your rotating assembly your connecting rods pistons pins and clips plus weight of piston rings and print out the individual weight to within a gram of all your parts for future replacement if ever ! And last year at my local shop the owner's son pointed out my old bike and she's still running on my first build ever some 37 years later
Given the edges of both wheels are machined, a clamp like the flywheel alignment jig clamps used on Evo and prior could be equally useful when pressing could reduce error and save expensive shop time. Two pieces of heavy channel or equivalent with edges milled flat would do but it could be more advanced as desired.
Bielles moulés dans la masse avec cage aiguilles plutôt que demi coussinets et calage reporté sur un axe ex-tractable des balanciers de vilebrequin...Punaise, franchement, d'un point de vue mécanique c'est super malin. Je comprends mieux pourquoi ces motos sont increvables (dans le cas présent il a du avoir un souci de niveau d'huile, mais rien en terme de tare mécanique mal conçue). Chapeau Harley Davidson.
@@PaulXchannel Very simple : off course, need some knowledge, but i just say with this example, how H&D so durability. This crankshaft damage result low oil, not by the way R&D . i love the way connecting rod done, one in one. Very intelligent. And i love the fact crankshaft build in two parts, very intelligent, not oblige buy an entire another one. Sorry my english, school nivel ; )
i have 1340 evo big twin and it has excessive vibration...the vibrations even loosen up the transmission bolt...my question is ..is there possible the vibrations coming from damage or bad crankshaft? need help here .. thanks
Very interesting. I am sending mine to Dark Horse but this guy makes it look easy. It aint. A lot of things can go wrong and when it's wrong, it's real bad news. But you won't know till it's in there. Still probably better than Harley did it. (Still love you Harley but it is what it is) Thanks for the video. Cool to see.
1) I did not see the truing dial indicators Zeroed out. Was that crank installe with runout? 2) If going to the trouble and expense of swapping out rods and crank pin, why not throw a few more bucks at it and make it a stroker. A few inches more never hurts, actually it feels pretty good, or so my sister says.... ....RooDog....
Because these cannot scissor being the cases hold the main shafts in position in where if scissoring were actually true it would require breaking the cases before this could occur. And the mainshafts have wedged slots to where they could never turn You are believing SCAMMERS
@@EarlGuyton425 YES THEY CAN SCISSOR. THEY DONT HAVE TO SCISSOR MUCH EITHER TO CAUSE DAMAGE. AS SOON AS THEY SHIFT, THE RUNOUT ON THE SHAFTS, ESPECIALLY THE PINION SIDE, WILL TEAR UP THE CAM PLATE AND BUSHINGS. HE DOES NICE WORK, BUT IF THAT PRESS FIT IS LOOSE ENOUGH FOR A FLYWHEEL TO SHIFT WITH THE THUMP OF A HAMMER IT WILL SHIFT IN SERVICE. THINK HOLE SHOTS. THEY NEED TO BE WELDED BUT THAT BRINGS ON ANOTHER PROBLEM WITH TRUING BECAUSE THE WELD CAN EASILY PULL THEM OUT OF WHACK. TRUST ME, I'VE TRUED HUNDREDS OF SETS OF FLYWHEELS IN THE LAST 35 YEARS. SPORTYS, PANHEADS, SHOVELS, EVO'S, TWINKIES. SORRY FOR THE CAPS, NOT INTENTIONAL.
My crankshaft is pitted near where the crankseal mate's. any advise paul X its only very faint what do you reckon if i use high temp chemical metal & feather it in with some scotch brite i dont have a lathe & ino you can get a sleeve made to give it a new mateing service just wouldn't no where to get one ? ? ? Its on the left side flywheel side
QUESTIONS : 1) because you changed rods, de new external one does not have lubricant canals, WHY? 2) Mandatory, new rods do not have the same mass of older ones. Why you did not mesure it and balanced the crankshaft flanges at the end? Thank you for the answer. Anyway, you do great work.
@@PaulXchannelOK. Just I asked because they are not visibles in the video at 6:05 timing. However it would be nice to show how to check it detailing the mass of the twin rod big ends mobile assy with their roll cage and singular little piston end with its roll age or pin. Anyway, thank you for your fast answer. Great job.
@@PaulXchannel reading you better I doubt we are talking about the same fact. Initially I was not talking about the pin. I was talking about the shoulder of the big end of the rod visible at 6:05. ;)
Ya should have oiled or greased those crank pins bearings before assembling the flywheels and rods. So they wouldn't starve for lubrication on 1st start up.
@@donniebaker5984 I'd say he should have lubed them with it before assembly. . The first few seconds of wear before the lube oil gets to them is critical for longevity of the brgs and crank pin. other than that, nice job.
In complete job, I have done many Harley Davidson flywheels over the years started with panheads all the way through twin cams you didn't address the end of your pinion shaft or your driveshaft just because your dial indicator reads.000 at the bearing surface doesn't mean it will be.000 at the end of the shaft, more than likely the ends of both pinion and output shaft will be out of tolerance, these flywheels are not finished yet
Exactly, however, there is no fat but oil, the fat initially obstructs the oil passages, however I don't understand why it didn't. It would have been less risky in the first start.
The hammering centered both halves of the Crankshaft on their axis in relation to each other. That's what the dials were measuring, seeing as common crank pin motors do not have a singular statically milled axis, you have to center both halves in respect to each other. It's also a matter of balance.
I like the video, no loud irritating music. I'm just guessing but think that bearing damage is from moisture, not riding it. letting it sit for long periods of time then taking short rides.
@@PaulXchannel Given the damage was only on the side of the crank pin that sees load during the power stroke, doubtful it was just mileage. In my experience its detonation that shock loads the rollers and pin on top there and chunks the rollers and pin at that location.
My 10 cents would be on that this was caused by rust. Classic Harley issue. HOWEVER: This isn't caused by the manufacturer. It's caused by people only riding their bikes a few times a year, and not starting them in-between, when parked in the garage. Condensation accumulates inside the engine, which then rusts. A HD engine specialist here in the UK told me that that is probably the number one reason why he has to repair cranks. People don't ride the bikes enough!
In the process of rebuilding a third motor for mine. First two were stock, bike bought in 2018 with 17k on it. Blew the bottom end at 68k Second one also stock had about 30k on it. Blew at 70k
connecting rods without races ?? Friggin twincams.... JUST did an EVO- $62 for races $44 for rollers w/cages, $131 for a crankpin; Made in USA I agree with you on not welding the pin.
![[UA] Eternal Fire проти NAVI | EPL Season 20 Malta](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/chvlsDygrZM/mqdefault.jpg)
This is a masterful demonstration of a practical skill, with maximum content, with minimal ( NO ) verbalization to confuse the presentation. This is a fantastic show of using maximum skill, and minimum equipment to preform a precision task.
I love your crank test stand, a work of art, all on it's own.
Your photography is magnificent, and shows everything needed perfectly !!!
Congratulations !!!
Tim
you must not know much about engine assembly ! = i bet you !
@@ronnieboucherthecrystalcraftsm
Hi, Ronnie
I am wondering about the comment you just sent me ???
Why would you assume that I don't know much about engine assembly ???
Base upon my positive comment about Paul Xs' display of expertise.
Tim
i watch your videos from many years ago , all jobs you make are a masterclass demostration of "how to do" many fixes , i've learned a lot from you and your videos man ... cheers from mexico !
Do you know what pressure at takes to press the pin out and back into cranshaft?
Do you know what pressure at takes to press the pin out and back into cranshaft?
@@ceasarvinas3129it doesn't look to be a very big press. If 20 ton doesn't work replace the jack with a 40 ton unit
Amazing that the press plug is good enough to lock it all down. Also amazed the builder left all the rust/corrosion on the crank. Could be that it looks worse on camera.
My experience, it's often a bit of case sealant dripped across.
Bravo, very precise workmanship. Oscillation meters showed almost zero. Congratulations :).
Thanks.
Excellent Job Brother!! Our Royal Enfield 500 and 350 engines have similar crank pin.. I had changed the same in my Royal Enfield 500. Unfortunately, many riders of Royal Enfield experience the same problem. Watching this could perhaps enable them to know the delicacy of this job..
Thanks
great vid, just wondering why you don't heat the wheels, freeze the pin and drop it together instead of pressing?
I wish all youtube channels were like yours. No bullshit talking just show how to
You really should indicate the crank Futher away from the roller bearings to get a more accurate reading. The ends can have alot of runout and only show little next to the bearings.
Anyway nice video and good job.
OK.
Thanks.
@@PaulXchannel it's a beautiful fixture. Did you make it yourself ?
@@PaulXchannel you read your dial indicators at the main bearing journals just like you did it or you are wasting your timid if you don't !!! It doesn't hurt to check the further trueness of the drive socket side and the opinion side shafts but run out at the main bearings to get it right must be set at "0" zero .and check out Precision balancing Company of Indianapolis Indiana.. Where you can send your crankshaft zeroed out with no rods attached piscina near-complete rotating assembly and they will weigh out each part in one gram and send you a paper on that Daniel take a shot box fastened to your crankshaft and fill it with chhatre exactly what your rotating assembly will weigh Alan Hale spend balance it to whatever RPM you want to run as maximum on your engine build and betting you won't believe the difference it makes as the front tire will not jump up and down on the pavement anymore when it's idling and when your roll it on it won't feel like a Harley anymore it feels smoother than a Japanese bike and you'll gain a whole bunch more power as there's no more inertia of a crankshaft trying to come out but just rolling free and balanced. I don't need to tell you that Harley doesn't have time to do all this and still sell a motorcycle at the price they do as no other manufacturer does either. Manufactures build a perfectly balanced engine to start with as a prototype and then copy all the parts and weights after that and if it's balanced fine if it's not shakes little bit so what
If you do it your way the main bearings can have some hop and wobble in them at least about a thousands or even more and you're wasting your time ...if the sprocket Shaft or the pinion shaft is wobbling after you have true the main bearing journals get new parts and do it again
@@nikolaiownz ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,why dont paulx reply to the question.................................................................................................
Commentary left me speechless!
I developed a method where the wheels are trued zero while pressed them together without hitting them with a copper hammer and truing them. Also why did you not replace pinion shaft when it was apart for a new bearing surface and oiling upgrade?
Its only a 3 piece crank. To change out the pinion or sprocket shaft you have to change that wheel/crank half. The shafts are made as part of the crank assembly. The old/shovel head, panhead, knucklehead, sporty cranks were good stuff. Not garbage like twin cam door weights.
Outstanding video, well presented and complete in coverage. I wish more were like this. Excellent background music by the way.
No words to describe my feelings
Just fantastic mind blowing and excellent job. 🇵🇰🇵🇰🇵🇰love from Pakistan
AWESOME video!!! Would it or would it not be a good idea to weld crank pin after truing it up to prevent runout?
Good job. Nice centering attachement. No need of use hammer for truing if use bush type Crank assembling fixtures. Perfect well done.
Please upload video about cylinder head valve seat repair. Thanks
Thanks.
In future videos.
Excellent! thanks for sharing your knowledge. I only have one question: What is the cover you put on the pin for, at the end of the video? Thank you very much for answering!
Hi, what was done to the crank to clean up the damage on it? Or does the damage not matter? Thank you, I’m looking into rebuilding a twin cam engine
If you would have used a positioning jig you could have eliminated the hammering. You still would want to check it for position. But a great job none the less. Also you need to face grind that Hammer. The way it is now it could spit something at your eyes.
Been nice to hear someone explain this
No heat for install ?? Have found heat when installing things go smoothly..
Do u think a 12 ton shop press is strong enough to press the crank pin and flywheel assembly out of the case?
Not
Very interesting. Have these engines ever been tried with plain bearings rather than roller bearings?
3 piece crankshaft, with needle bearings. Wow, That is real old school.
It's old school, but the beauty of it is in it's absolute simplicity.
Harley motors are not high tech, however, they are reliable for
this one simple reason. Where most motors are permanently
and irreversibly damaged, a Harley motor can be repaired.
By design it is almost impossible for a common crank pin
motor to throw a connecting rod. You may lose the bearings,
or the motor may break a wrist pin, but it won't throw a
connecting rod, the modularity of the motor also aides in it's
robust and endlessly repairable nature.
Every $10,000 motocross engine of all 2020 to as far back as 1968 japanese dirt bikes all ktm dirt bikes all new maico everything is made exactly like this harley and you need to go to and eye doctor and get new glasses cause you got double double vision and no depth perception 1970 shovel head was a 5 piece crank the evos were 3 piece and this is a twin cam that is a two piece ...those bearing are much bigger than those in a drive shaft as if they were actual needle bearings as you claim they are would not last three hours ....So tell me so everyone else will know and exactly why that front rod and the center of the crank pin failed and the rear female rod and both ends of the crank pin still look brand new ..and if you dont come with the correct answer you are just another flilthy scum bucket harley hater who just wants to put harley out of business to make harder for me to own them just for your spite ;
@@nowthisis2stupid old school of a ducks ass ...every dirt bike is built exactly the same way ..you are not helping anyone ..go home
@@nowthisis2stupid hd not high tech ...your brain is not either is why you dont have a clue
@@nowthisis2stupid i just finished your comment of not one thing said is true ...and all you said is your total imagination gone from who knows where
Was wondering if the con rods were the same weight as the old ones as to retain the balance. Could be that the balance is better now.
Excellent work, everything is detailed and well presented. Thanks for the video, enjoyed watching
Nice job and awesome video. I’m kind of shocked those cranks would ever stay true from the factory, considering the load on just a press fit. A taper fit and a nut, or welding the pin to the flywheels I’d think would be more solid.
I would think that after the crank is centered and placed in the case supported by the main bearings, there is no place for the crank to twist out of center. If it does then I expect that you have many other problems to worry about.
@@peejay6855 Yeah, the bearings support the crank, but it wouldn’t have to flex much to end up with runout that could damage gear drive cam or even the oil pump.
They have a pretty tight interference fit from the factory, there used to be promotional video's about it with the special 150 ton press HD developed.
It's supposed to take a minimum of 50 tons to put them together but I have heard many are around 20 tons?
I've done hundreds of the taper pin/nutted HD cranks but always kept away from the pressed up ones.
Welding the pin to the flywheel is something we did back in the 70's and 80's on much simpler cranks
Yea a lot of companies do press and weld them with a bigger pin Harley should’ve done that to begin with like they did before and they did on early twin cam for few years than trying to save little money they did the pressing it’s crazy the runout they have on some
Nice..... I have been playing with smaller cranks than this but I have been warming the cranks in a "deepfat fryer" up to 150 C.... the cold pins go in with hand force..
That solution is sprayed, what effect does it have, sir?
ถ่ายทอดความรู้ ด้วย วีดีโอ ได้ดีมากๆๆ เข้าใจได้ โดยไม่ต้อง พูดออกเสียง ขอเป็นกำลังใจให้นะครับ ทำรุ่น M8 เครื่อง 104 บ้างนะครับ ขอบคุณครับ
What are your thoughts on welding the shaft that you pressed in to the flywheel assembly that holds the bearings/rods? I know people do it to prevent runout on high RPM builds and I want to have a nice reliable xr1200/xb12 crank built for my Sportster build to handle a beating. Your work is amazing!
Thanks.
Welding the shaft ???
@@PaulXchannel you can weld a quarter round the crank pin to the fly wheels so it can never slip
.and use a tig welder for a very small and narrow bead and not much penetration so it can be ground off with a die grinder. For future overhauls ..of the last of the all roller cranks from Suzuki came factory welded pins as a lot of them were twisting cranks at the midnight drags in the ghetto on 36th street Indy back then
Best thing for a reliable Sportster is keep it between 2,000rpm and 6,000rpm and don't fit drag pipes as they lose power being designed to work at 9,000rpm on XR 750
Weld ur up
What?
The scarred crank pin may be caused by not enough oil being circulated, idk. I've read that some people balk at Twin Cam motors due to their supposed unreliability. If you're going to overhaul one you might as well swap the chain-driven cam assembly with a set of gear-driven ones as cam chain tensioners on them do have a litany of issues.
Runout is too high on most of them to take gears.
При такому способі центрування,лапки індикатора треба ставити на кінці вала!!На відео видно неозброєним оком що вал ще потрібно центрувати,биття там більше десятки.Вага вашого молоточка замала для такого колінвала.Я сам колись ремонтував колінвали ...
Гарний у Вас контент,успіхів!
Great video, thank you. I see that the crankshaft was trued. But not balanced?
Thanks.
Check out Precision balance Company of Indianapolis Indiana ...37 years ago I built my first Harley engine that was an FLH 74 cubic inch and I had Precision balance Company of Indianapolis Indiana spin balance the crankshaft as you have to have your crank Wheels together and zeroed out before you taking there and they actually spin balance the crank with the weight of your rotating assembly your connecting rods pistons pins and clips plus weight of piston rings and print out the individual weight to within a gram of all your parts for future replacement if ever ! And last year at my local shop the owner's son pointed out my old bike and she's still running on my first build ever some 37 years later
@@donniebaker5984 Excellent point regarding having records of part weights (pistons, rings, pins, clips) for future replacement.
What kind of truing stand is that and where can I get one?
Hi Paul can u tell me pls what grade steel those bars are
Given the edges of both wheels are machined, a clamp like the flywheel alignment jig clamps used on Evo and prior could be equally useful when pressing could reduce error and save expensive shop time. Two pieces of heavy channel or equivalent with edges milled flat would do but it could be more advanced as desired.
Great video good jobs what is the flywheel tuning stand… interesting
Thank you
why not put some assembly lube or grease on those bearings before you install them?
Bielles moulés dans la masse avec cage aiguilles plutôt que demi coussinets et calage reporté sur un axe ex-tractable des balanciers de vilebrequin...Punaise, franchement, d'un point de vue mécanique c'est super malin. Je comprends mieux pourquoi ces motos sont increvables (dans le cas présent il a du avoir un souci de niveau d'huile, mais rien en terme de tare mécanique mal conçue). Chapeau Harley Davidson.
Heavy crankshaft for rod replacement.
@@PaulXchannel Very simple : off course, need some knowledge, but i just say with this example, how H&D so durability. This crankshaft damage result low oil, not by the way R&D . i love the way connecting rod done, one in one. Very intelligent. And i love the fact crankshaft build in two parts, very intelligent, not oblige buy an entire another one. Sorry my english, school nivel ; )
Thats a precision job . Good work
i have 1340 evo big twin and it has excessive vibration...the vibrations even loosen up the transmission bolt...my question is ..is there possible the vibrations coming from damage or bad crankshaft? need help here .. thanks
I think a balance is needed.
Paul X thanks for the reply..so you did think the vibration coming from unbalanced crank?
Would like to know what the dual indicator tool source is. Is this commercially available?
Made in my workshop.
The jig that you used to true the flywheel. Did you build it yourself or is there a company that you purchased it from?
ua-cam.com/video/qPJe2KwTHfM/v-deo.html
reliable mechanic wish you good health and success always amiiiiinnnnnnn 🙏👍
Thank you very much
Great job with lots detail. Thanks for sharing. Cheers
Thanks
Superbly done... All doubts eliminated. Great explanation. Brilliant !!!
Very interesting. I am sending mine to Dark Horse but this guy makes it look easy. It aint. A lot of things can go wrong and when it's wrong, it's real bad news. But you won't know till it's in there. Still probably better than Harley did it. (Still love you Harley but it is what it is)
Thanks for the video. Cool to see.
Thanks
I love your centring jig do you sell them or know where I can purchase one?
Great methodical video by the way. Must have taken a while to edit ect.
Thanks. I only have one centering device. I use it in my workshop.
how to buy rebuild tool?? (ex. crank stand ...)
La fiabilité n'est pas légendaire comme le nom de la. marque ?
1) I did not see the truing dial indicators Zeroed out. Was that crank installe with runout?
2) If going to the trouble and expense of swapping out rods and crank pin, why not throw a few more bucks at it and make it a stroker. A few inches more never hurts, actually it feels pretty good, or so my sister says....
....RooDog....
I have a question, but what, do all Harleys have crankshafts on bearings, or on liners too?
Because freedumb!!!
How many tons is your press? May attempt to do my own after watching this video. thanks
50t
Great video, is there a balancing portion as well??
did the motor survive?
Hola ¿donde se puede comprar esa mesa de equilibrado de cigüeñales??
Assembly lube on rod bearings?
excellent work, clean and precise, congratulations
Nice job with a lot of experience. After changing the bearing, the crank also wants balancing?
Yes
Very well done with good detail.
Please Do some old parallel twin with ball bearing crankshaft, i always curious how they're assembled 🤔
Ok
@@PaulXchannel thanks man, i appreciate it.. 🤝
how come you don't weld the crank so it don't scissor
Because these cannot scissor being the cases hold the main shafts in position in where if scissoring were actually true it would require breaking the cases before this could occur. And the mainshafts have wedged slots to where they could never turn You are believing SCAMMERS
@@EarlGuyton425 YES THEY CAN SCISSOR. THEY DONT HAVE TO SCISSOR MUCH EITHER TO CAUSE DAMAGE. AS SOON AS THEY SHIFT, THE RUNOUT ON THE SHAFTS, ESPECIALLY THE PINION SIDE, WILL TEAR UP THE CAM PLATE AND BUSHINGS. HE DOES NICE WORK, BUT IF THAT PRESS FIT IS LOOSE ENOUGH FOR A FLYWHEEL TO SHIFT WITH THE THUMP OF A HAMMER IT WILL SHIFT IN SERVICE. THINK HOLE SHOTS. THEY NEED TO BE WELDED BUT THAT BRINGS ON ANOTHER PROBLEM WITH TRUING BECAUSE THE WELD CAN EASILY PULL THEM OUT OF WHACK. TRUST ME, I'VE TRUED HUNDREDS OF SETS OF FLYWHEELS IN THE LAST 35 YEARS. SPORTYS, PANHEADS, SHOVELS, EVO'S, TWINKIES. SORRY FOR THE CAPS, NOT INTENTIONAL.
Nice work! What tonnage of press are you using?
50t
What is the average cost for v twin flywheel services ?
Graet Jop! Greetings from Istanbul.
индикаторы надо ставить по концам сапф . а у тебя ближе к центру . там биение минимально показывает потому что там лежит коленвал на рориках
да . можно было в ноль вывести. посмотри георгий трифанов
И смещение равнял ударяя по той половинки где масляный канал.
My crankshaft is pitted near where the crankseal mate's. any advise paul X its only very faint what do you reckon if i use high temp chemical metal & feather it in with some scotch brite i dont have a lathe & ino you can get a sleeve made to give it a new mateing service just wouldn't no where to get one ? ? ? Its on the left side flywheel side
You make a case and glue with loctite 638
@@PaulXchannel what you mean like a sleeve you mean
@@officialmysteriousrider6327 yes, sleeve
Please can you tell me what is the preasure on your press in tonns?
My press have 50tons.
@@PaulXchannel Thank you!
QUESTIONS :
1) because you changed rods, de new external one does not have lubricant canals, WHY?
2) Mandatory, new rods do not have the same mass of older ones. Why you did not mesure it and balanced the crankshaft flanges at the end?
Thank you for the answer.
Anyway, you do great work.
lubrication canals are also in the new pin.
The weight is the same.
Thanks.
@@PaulXchannelOK. Just I asked because they are not visibles in the video at 6:05 timing.
However it would be nice to show how to check it detailing the mass of the twin rod big ends mobile assy with their roll cage and singular little piston end with its roll age or pin.
Anyway, thank you for your fast answer. Great job.
@@PaulXchannel reading you better I doubt we are talking about the same fact. Initially I was not talking about the pin. I was talking about the shoulder of the big end of the rod visible at 6:05. ;)
Man knows what he is doing
WHAT PART NUMBER IS THE RODS AND CRANKPIN THEY WANT TO SELL ME THE FLYWHEEL ASSEMBLY THANKS
Really cool video PaulX!
I'm in the process of trying to rebuild a crankshaft
Where did you get the trying jig from??
Thanks
Made in workshop
@@PaulXchannel That's cool af man!!!
Ya should have oiled or greased those crank pins bearings before assembling the flywheels and rods. So they wouldn't starve for lubrication on 1st start up.
It sounded horrible just sliding the rollers down the shaft.
Harley has Special Assembly Lube just for this job
@@donniebaker5984 I'd say he should have lubed them with it before assembly. . The first few seconds of wear before the lube oil gets to them is critical for longevity of the brgs and crank pin. other than that, nice job.
In complete job, I have done many Harley Davidson flywheels over the years started with panheads all the way through twin cams you didn't address the end of your pinion shaft or your driveshaft just because your dial indicator reads.000 at the bearing surface doesn't mean it will be.000 at the end of the shaft, more than likely the ends of both pinion and output shaft will be out of tolerance, these flywheels are not finished yet
The press looked well made
Assembly error - greasing full the connecting rod crankpin is mandatory.
Exactly, however, there is no fat but oil, the fat initially obstructs the oil passages, however I don't understand why it didn't. It would have been less risky in the first start.
Greasing can inhibit oil flow-very bad! Use only the oil the bike will run on, and make sure to prime the crankpin when assembling the engine.
Keep the grease on the axels.
Yes, lube the con rod bearings please. All 3 please. With assembly lube.
How the hammering solved the issue, and why??
Good job ; )
The hammering centered both halves of the Crankshaft on their axis in relation to each other.
That's what the dials were measuring, seeing as common crank pin motors do not have a singular
statically milled axis, you have to center both halves in respect to each other. It's also a matter of
balance.
He's centering it.
I like the video, no loud irritating music. I'm just guessing but think that bearing damage is from moisture, not riding it. letting it sit for long periods of time then taking short rides.
Plus look at all the corrosion on the flywheels
I have a similar one in the workshop now.
Very professional, well done 👍
Thanks
How many tons is the press?
50t
Like them indicators where can you get them? Very good video!
Thanks.
Made in my workshop.
Dial indicators are available online
Great Jop ! Thanks for upload. Love from Turkey-lstanbul.
Thanks for watching.
@@PaulXchannel merhaba. Ü. Ama üü nü. Üüü ü. Mn. Ülke ü ln ön üm m ü. Nü ç lğl
good job! how many tons is the press?
50t
@@PaulXchannel can i do it with a smaller one?
Maybe yes
Hey Paul, what was the cause of the damage to the crank pin?
I think a lot of km or miles.
@@PaulXchannel Given the damage was only on the side of the crank pin that sees load during the power stroke, doubtful it was just mileage. In my experience its detonation that shock loads the rollers and pin on top there and chunks the rollers and pin at that location.
What was the cause of the damage?
I don't know
amazing video, thank you!
Ok
Привет.. Это клин?
My 10 cents would be on that this was caused by rust. Classic Harley issue. HOWEVER: This isn't caused by the manufacturer. It's caused by people only riding their bikes a few times a year, and not starting them in-between, when parked in the garage. Condensation accumulates inside the engine, which then rusts. A HD engine specialist here in the UK told me that that is probably the number one reason why he has to repair cranks. People don't ride the bikes enough!
In the process of rebuilding a third motor for mine. First two were stock, bike bought in 2018 with 17k on it.
Blew the bottom end at 68k
Second one also stock had about 30k on it.
Blew at 70k
I watched a friend do that to my Suzuki GSX 1100 crank a big cooper hammer and for journal to line up end result 0.001 thumbs up FME Engineering
Thumb up
connecting rods without races ?? Friggin twincams.... JUST did an EVO- $62 for races $44 for rollers w/cages, $131 for a crankpin; Made in USA
I agree with you on not welding the pin.
В центрах вал надо проверять!!!!!
Разница по идее небольшая
Hey Paul! What is in that spraycan that you used?
Lubra K AHT
Very nicely done. Beautiful job.
Thanks
Pode.trocá a bomba de.oleo tbm
Name of Background Music pls
Nice job. How many miles for this crankshaft ?
I don't know but a lot.
You hit that 7 times and it's completely centered and balanced. I hit that 7 times and would be completely destroyed.
excelente trabajo Saludos desde Argentina
How many tons need for the press for this job?
I have 50t.
Ile on miał przebiegu?
Хорошая работа!