I think what brought me back to this one today was the way you modified the big end of this "Connecting rod" . It is stronger and adjustability more finite. Big thumbs up one more time my friend.
Those of us who build Live steam locos, have to make eccentrics and straps and there are a million ways to do it. Your ideas here went into my notebook. Simple, clean, and your technics in this video are priceless. Thanks.
Those 'con-rods' had me scratching my head as to how you'd approach them, taking into account their asymmetry. Well - your method was elegant and effective - lot of steps in the sequence predictably and some great ideas. Have to keep remembering just how small everything is!
I don't know who said we didn't want to watch filing ... they certainly don't speak for me! I watch a few machinist channels, and the mundane tasks are usually the most interesting ... partly for watching a master at work and maybe learning something, but also for the fact that usually mundane tasks are the perfect place and time for random "banter" which is either full of otherwise off topic tidbits of valuable information, or fun stories of their past! Thanks for sharing 🇨🇦
I can't tell you how much you have helped me. I am a newer gunsmith and learning from Father who has done it all his life. He is teaching me but sometimes your way of explaining and doing things makes it click. I especially love your threading videos and I actually taught my Dad how to thread away from the chuck. Haha!! You are my man crush sir!!!
This video is packed full of great tips and ideas. I completely understand the reasons for the way you approached each setup, but I'm not sure I would have thought of them until after I had scrapped the part. Great video.
Joe, I hope your getting paid by youtube! My objective is to the first to view a joe pie engine video when its posted. You already have a deserving slew of posts in the first two hours. Its one of the activities so many of us look forward to each weekend. You can make a retirement out of nothing but building steam engines. Gotta Love it. Thanks!!!
I really like your modifications to the eccentric. Not only does it look better, but I have to agree with the arguments you put forward. As much as I like the stuart model kits, its still a model and not a real engine that sees torture every day. Also bear in mind that the stuart models often have designs going back to about 1889 when Stuart Turner first began selling these models. Back in the day, model engineers often had to build their own lathes and milling machines were an absolute luxury. One really nice antique book that outlines all of this would be "Model Engineering" written by Henry Greenly published about 1915. One note I will mention is this. I have seen eccentrics in 6x6 and 5x6 actual stationary steam engines in which the eccentric was seriously scored. Why this happened is open to speculation as I was not born when these engines were used to drive line shaft shaft machines. Quite likely it was the result of lubrication issues.... you really do need to lube up a steam engine to keep wear under control. But another likely theory is that swarf worked its way into the eccentric/eccentric sheave and scored the eccentric. Also, swarf combining with heavy lube oil can become a lapping paste which accelerates wear rapidly. In the one engine that I did detail work on, the sheave was cast iron and the eccentric was steel..... most likely a wrought iron of some form. I would prefer to see one of these components made from a phospher style bronze. Also, in the case of the eccentric and eccentric sheave, you dont have the opportunity to include traditional "brasses" as you would see in the crank shaft area. So here, a two piece eccentric sheave allows you to use shims to adjust the clearance which can take up wear. But this is a model and it will never see the run time or loads that the big boys see. My interest in these models to work with the various designs at the scale model level to better understand the advantages and disadvantages of these various engines. My goal is to design and build a full size steam engine to run my collection of line shaft machine tools. It is without doubt that engineering of these engines was a fully developed theory and its way more complex that it appears. But we have lost much in the last century once we all discovered electrical motors to run our machines.
You are correct we, as a society, have lost a lot of common knowledge about engines and machinery but we do have a vast library of books on the subjects. Unless you just "want" to build your own engine, why not try to find a suitable engine to rebuild or modify similar to the Old Steam Workshop? Modern materials for construction and bearings would improve most engine designs without changing their appearance. Good luck and fortune with your goals.
These videos are well worth the time to watch. I'm not into building these kind of things but the work holding ideas are everywhere in these little gems
I like your mod Joe - it's definitely an improvement. I also think you decision to exclude extraneous footage, like filing, makes for a better video. Thanks.
Your modification looks much better than the original solution with the small grub screw protruding from the collar of the eccentric! I always trip over the word "unloosen", so much so that I finally looked it up in the Oxford English Dictionary: Turns out, this is the interesting and rare case where the prefix "un-" does not mean "the opposite of the following verb". Please excuse someone whose first language is not English for doubting you, and thanks for pointing out this linguistic curiosity. I think, I will start using the word, just to annoy some of my engineering students next semester ;-)
Great stuff. I like the trick using the ball in the rough bore to make sure the part is held securely. It's those details that help get to a part with accurate geometric relationships, so faces are parallel / square as needed. I get that we've seen a lot of filing now in your videos, but it's amazing how important that skill is. Cheers as always.
JOE P, Wonderful to see you once again. Once again I will praise them for the quality of these brass/bronze castings. This post went by far to quickly once again. Seems these posts from you continue to do that. Well old king of small I sure like what I am seeing and the chat as it procedes. Ya rock fella !
Hi Joe, great video as always. I would suggest adding an oil reservoir in the now unused step in the eccentric strap and tiny through hole to the bearing surface 👍
Hi Joe, excellent video as always! I really liked your shop tip in this video, "always clamp in the direction you'll be boring." Excellent advice! Can''t wait until your next post!
Great video Joe like your take on these parts . Truly a lot of thought went into your decision . It’s little things like this that put you miles ahead of the rest of us. Thank you Sir.
I’m retired, in my 70s and have never had exposure to milling and lathe work before. It’s totally mesmerising to me. My eyesight is nowhere good enough to try to learn this any more, so I have to be satisfied with the view from the bleachers that UA-cam gives me. Thank you for doing these videos, so I can come along for the ride without exposing any of my body parts to actual risk One of my regular delights is going back and forth between your channel and a similar channel where the host is machining huge parts for mining machinery. To see many of the same operations in giant scale for a Caterpillar D9 bulldozer part keeps me riveted for hour s sometimes
I am not the young buck I once was but I will never give up my machine tools and shop. I am being forced to relocate my shop now which, with God's blessings, will be better and more suited to what I need to accomplish. My monarch 10EE is currently in my buddy's shop. He is into his 80s now and still does gun smith work on my lathe, his south bend lathe and a bridgeport milling machine. We all use those goofy visors that the denist uses to see the details. DRO's have been a god send when you work on machines having smaller dials. For us, we just keep two adages in mind..... RETIRED = As tired today as you were yesterday. And SEMI-RETIRED= you were partially run over by a semi truck.
@@devmeistersuperprecision4155 a common misconception about retirement is that we sit on the porch with our feet up and watch the birds fly past all day. My sons father-in-law puts it this way: “How’s retirement suiting you? Are you getting used to having nothing to do?” “Are you kidding? I’m busier than I’ve ever been! In fact I don’t know how I ever found the time to go to work!”
@@devmeistersuperprecision4155 "RE" means to do something over or again, doesn't it? Then how can I "retire" when I didn't and haven't gotten over being "tired" in the first place? I am 76. Also, I am not ready for bed yet. I'll see myself out.
I like this idea because if you split the eccentric strap, the hole for the crankshaft will be out-of-round. The only negative is with locomotive axles which would have to be disassembled if you had to replace the strap.
I never did like those bosses on the side of the eccentric. They aren't typical for this style of engine. Having the outside flange looks a lot neater. Could be an issue if you decide to add reversing gear later though.
Thanks for another fantastic video Joe, I eagerly await your weekly content, it would be great if it was more frequent but there’s only so much one man can do, keep up the fantastic work and I hope you’re happy and healthy and safe and all of the above. Stay safe and all the best from Tasmania, Australia
Nice revision to the eccentric ..... Stay Cool in the Shop... It's triple digit here in the Houston area + High humidity....! Good video as always....!
Joe, You can make and fit an oiler with wadding and a lid on the side of the big end, to prevent wear negating the eventual slot requirement. I know it’s only a model and show piece for you, it’s just an option I thought of 😊 Regards, Paul 🇬🇧
Beutiful videos mostly because of your great thinking, it's so rare these days. In respect of filing, I would have slipped in a shot of a 4 or 4.5 inch grindette (small angle grinder) next video release slip in a shot of removing the ugly with an 8 inch angle grinder then next video a shot of a Paddys motorbike - a petrol angle grinder with a 14 inch blade. Sorry, that's just my sense of humour akin to This Old Tony. If the files are minimal footage I doubt it would loose any viewers, if the files are shown I predict all your viewers will watch & enjoy. Keep up the greatly respected work your way. Thanks Joe.
i am a hobby machinist, currently without a mill or a lathe. my youngest brother recently introduced me to 3D modeling and last wed i started designing something I've thought of building for a decade or more. take a look at this link and see if you could build it. i know there are missing features, dimensions, tolerances, part labels, etc... but this is my first week of learning onshape modeling.
Hello Joe! I like your clever modification but I didn't see how you got the nice external profile to the eccentric strap. Suddenly it's there, looking lovely, a tribute perhaps to you time-served filing skills. I think the strap does need an oil hole, though I guess that you could just put a drop of oil onto the cap you made. These parts are drop forged incidentally, a lot cheaper than lost wax castings with the quantities of 10 series engines that Stuart Models sells. Once the forging die was made, (long ago) any number of them can be pressed out and the unit cost lowers with every one, whereas lost wax castings remain the same cost per unit due to the processes involved, no matter how many are produced. Later in Stuart Turner's history, extrusion costs came down and the reversing gear for this model with its two eccentrics at each end are produced that way. Please keep making these little videos - I'm learning something new with every one and you always make even tedious or daunting jobs into something ejoyable.
I think that's a big improvement. Countersunk screws would be a bit more 'period' maybe. The original uses a slot in the grub screw which immediately shears off when you tighten it. I think a lot of people use a 6ba hex grub screw instead. It's also interesting that very often the strap is split on both sides. I think that is for when the cam is between the crankshaft webs.
Hi John. I saw that grub screw problem a mile away even before I made the parts. The cap is thin, so c'sunk screws may be tough without making the part differently. The PM strap is split on both sides, but their eccentric was different.
@@joepie221 a while back I sent you some photos of my old plans for the 10V. I used the email address at your website. I don't know if you got them. Let me know if there is a better email to use.
Hi Joe, watching you from Shanghai China. In my 20 plus years of hot forging brass, I’d say that those pieces look more like forgings rather than castings. The parting line is offset. The square corners on the flashing look like they come from the trim dies. These eccentric straps, were they castings rather than forgings would likely not be strong enough. As always, I enjoy watching you work and always learn something new.
If you would have put the two little screws from the other side, you could have countersunk them and moved them below surface. This way the design would be even cleaner.
Hi Joe, I like your mod for the valve timing, the Pm Research engine has the same junk pin on it. the bolts on the crank give a nice look I did add those to mine.
I like the mod Joe but the SHCS are IMHO an eye sore. Have you considered countersunk screws or even countersunk solid rivets. Rivets perfectly blended would really mess with a few heads :)
The parting lines are centered to the rod, which is off center to the rest of the part you were looking at when wondering. Edit: Ok, a bit later in the vid, it became clear that you recognised the rod-off-center situaton.
Love the mod. I think I would add the bolt to the rod without the split to visually fill the notch the rod has cast in. It would make no difference in operation as your mod is clearly a better set up than the drawing, purely cosmetic.
My grandad bought a German made model stationary steam engine back in 1920 (2nd hand) for my dads 5th christmas. (It started a lifetime love of all things steam for him) This engine had a reverse motion on it which was simple as pie The concentric 'floated' on a 'drive' which in turn had a drive pin facing outwards towards and through the concentric. This pin went through the concentric collar which had a semi-circular slot machined in it. When you spun the flywheel one direction, the pin on the drive piece of the setup spun around to one end of the concentric slot giving the valve timing for forward motion and vice versa for reverse. The model is a fantastic piece of engineering and still works like new over a hundred years later with absolutely no repairs whatsoever to it in that time, my eldest brothers' grandson is now the custodian👍👍
@@WeeShoeyDuglessIt's a great simple way of reversing an engine, the problem is though you either have to manually rotate the engine to reverse it or use a Gooch gear to do so and it doesn't give any adjustment to valve events while running
@@gherkinisgreat Of course what you say is true, but remember, this is only a model engine and unlikely to be 'slammed' from a forward motion to reverse. The precision of the engine, the castings, the machining of parts etc, is 2nd to none I have ever seen anywhere.
If loosening something means to make it less tight it seems that un-loosening would be the opposite. That would mean that after you unloosened the set screw you wouldn't be able to change the timing 🙂.
@@grantofat6438 Seems the words are ganging up on retention - tighten stands alone with untighten, loosen and unloosen all trying to make it lose its grip! What's a poor setscrew to do!
"Don't bother with the filing. If you've seen it once you've seen it a thousand times." I disagree. What about the poor guy that just found this channel? What about the possible different methods you use? My take. Always show the steps, even if only a few seconds of video time. Show the set ups. There are newbies and non machinists watching. You are already good about not showing repetition, as in if there are multiple parts, show one, and say you did the same to the others. If you omit showing one function you might as well omit all of them. Drill a hole. Omit that , I've seen holes drilled. Face off a piece of stock, forget it, I've seen that too. See what I mean? Am I being pickey? Maybe. I truly enjoy your videos. I am a woodworker but really like what you can do with a piece of metal. And from time to time I learn something I can use in my craft. Thank you for sharing. Have a great day and stay safe.🙂🙂
I was gonna say the same thing. People can always fast forward through it if they think they’ve got nothing to learn from it or are bored by it. Too many of my favourite interesting channels are slimming down their videos to suit the algorithm or to suit longer term members, but I enjoy seeing all the details.
@@JohnBlaze505 - but how many people making videos actually have the experience to do it correctly? I have a couple of channels that I have watched that actually show the art of using a file that show the proper way. This being one, Clickspring (great videos) and the German Master Stephan Gottswinter, a must for precision machining in the same vein as Joe has presented in his latest couple of series. Oxtools has a real appreciation for the toothed tools also. Yep it’s just a file……there’s a lot to learn. My 2 cents 😊
Heh, you will get some distortion even clamping along the axis. Dunno if you can measure it, bit there's going to be some degree of movement from the material squishing under the pressure. Slightly more practical than measuring the thickness of s sharpie mark.
Your modification to the design is, I think, a good one. Do you plan to add any holes to the connecting rod to allow for lubrication of the journal? KOKO!
I'll calculate the position and put a slight undercut on the shaft. Flats are better, but tougher to cut prior to timing the engine. Not impossible, but way easier after a dimple appears.
Hi Joe, how do you de-burr the inside of the shaft-hole after drilling and tapping for the lock-screw? I always seem to end up marking the shaft-hole where I have used a needle-file. Cheers,
Dear machinists i need your help ! I am looking for coolant fluid for my manual lathe(i mostly work with steel and aluminum,sometimes brass,rarely stainless steel) that is not white liquid (the one that goes bad after a week or two and smells like sewer and looks like 2% milk ).Something that can last a long time.I know there are two ,three types(synthetic ,half synthetic mineral etc) but i dont know which one is which. So if you guys know the type please write what i am looking for.
There are many that look like the like the same white coolant. I actually use one of those, a Mobil product, but I mix it well on the rich side. Being in the home shop this doesn't cost a lot more and makes it last a LOT longer, and it doesn't cause rust. Otherwise many people have good results using WD40. Pretty sure Joe uses WD40 when he needs coolant / lube during cutting.
My CNC machine uses Trim-Sol. Its a teal green water mixed coolant. Mine has never gone rancid and sees some very extreme heat. If I were to charge my lathe cooling system, thats what I'd use.
@@joepie221 Thats my problem:) People recommend brand (i tried on some forums and other videos)which i cant obtain in my country ,and i need the type of oil so i can find something named different from other company that has exact same property's.
Leave the filing in lest we miss something, it is not all about machines, it is rather about preparation and planning to complete all the tasks required to get the part. The cleverest tools are on the ends of your arms, much like a novelty balloon blower ,they are ordinary balloons but in clever hands.
For those who don't like the filing, there is always the fast forward button. Or will they complain about the effort that it takes to do that too. Am I being too cynical??? Don't think so. I have seen the calibre of some of the comments on Joe's previous videos.
I think what brought me back to this one today was the way you modified the big end of this "Connecting rod" . It is stronger and adjustability more finite. Big thumbs up one more time my friend.
"...make all the ugly go away..." love it!
Those of us who build Live steam locos, have to make eccentrics and straps and there are a million ways to do it. Your ideas here went into my notebook. Simple, clean, and your technics in this video are priceless. Thanks.
Thanks.
Those 'con-rods' had me scratching my head as to how you'd approach them, taking into account their asymmetry. Well - your method was elegant and effective - lot of steps in the sequence predictably and some great ideas. Have to keep remembering just how small everything is!
And....there is 2 of everything too. It really adds to the overall project time.
I don't know who said we didn't want to watch filing ... they certainly don't speak for me!
I watch a few machinist channels, and the mundane tasks are usually the most interesting ... partly for watching a master at work and maybe learning something, but also for the fact that usually mundane tasks are the perfect place and time for random "banter" which is either full of otherwise off topic tidbits of valuable information, or fun stories of their past!
Thanks for sharing 🇨🇦
I can't tell you how much you have helped me. I am a newer gunsmith and learning from Father who has done it all his life. He is teaching me but sometimes your way of explaining and doing things makes it click. I especially love your threading videos and I actually taught my Dad how to thread away from the chuck. Haha!! You are my man crush sir!!!
Thanks for your support. :)
This video is packed full of great tips and ideas. I completely understand the reasons for the way you approached each setup, but I'm not sure I would have thought of them until after I had scrapped the part. Great video.
Me tooooo!!! 😁
Joe, I hope your getting paid by youtube! My objective is to the first to view a joe pie engine video when its posted. You already have a deserving slew of posts in the first two hours. Its one of the activities so many of us look forward to each weekend. You can make a retirement out of nothing but building steam engines. Gotta Love it. Thanks!!!
My display case is getting crowded. :)
I admire the skill you demonstrate on these tiny parts. Thanks for the video keep on keeping on.
Thanks for dropping by Harold.
Brilliant modification, I like this kind of out the box thinking.
I really like your modifications to the eccentric. Not only does it look better, but I have to agree with the arguments you put forward. As much as I like the stuart model kits, its still a model and not a real engine that sees torture every day. Also bear in mind that the stuart models often have designs going back to about 1889 when Stuart Turner first began selling these models. Back in the day, model engineers often had to build their own lathes and milling machines were an absolute luxury. One really nice antique book that outlines all of this would be "Model Engineering" written by Henry Greenly published about 1915.
One note I will mention is this. I have seen eccentrics in 6x6 and 5x6 actual stationary steam engines in which the eccentric was seriously scored. Why this happened is open to speculation as I was not born when these engines were used to drive line shaft shaft machines. Quite likely it was the result of lubrication issues.... you really do need to lube up a steam engine to keep wear under control. But another likely theory is that swarf worked its way into the eccentric/eccentric sheave and scored the eccentric. Also, swarf combining with heavy lube oil can become a lapping paste which accelerates wear rapidly. In the one engine that I did detail work on, the sheave was cast iron and the eccentric was steel..... most likely a wrought iron of some form. I would prefer to see one of these components made from a phospher style bronze. Also, in the case of the eccentric and eccentric sheave, you dont have the opportunity to include traditional "brasses" as you would see in the crank shaft area. So here, a two piece eccentric sheave allows you to use shims to adjust the clearance which can take up wear.
But this is a model and it will never see the run time or loads that the big boys see. My interest in these models to work with the various designs at the scale model level to better understand the advantages and disadvantages of these various engines. My goal is to design and build a full size steam engine to run my collection of line shaft machine tools. It is without doubt that engineering of these engines was a fully developed theory and its way more complex that it appears. But we have lost much in the last century once we all discovered electrical motors to run our machines.
You are correct we, as a society, have lost a lot of common knowledge about engines and machinery but we do have a vast library of books on the subjects.
Unless you just "want" to build your own engine, why not try to find a suitable engine to rebuild or modify similar to the Old Steam Workshop? Modern materials for construction and bearings would improve most engine designs without changing their appearance. Good luck and fortune with your goals.
Nice one Joe,much better set up than originally thought by the designers a hundred years ago.
I'm sure they used square head bolts, but thats just not practical at this scale.
Happy father's day Joe, and thanks for showing us some more of your beautiful work!
Thank you.
Practical engineering - good job! Thanks for the video Joe and have a good one.
These videos are well worth the time to watch. I'm not into building these kind of things but the work holding ideas are everywhere in these little gems
Glad to hear you say that. Thats the whole point of this channel. Its not about what I'm making, its about how.
I like your mod Joe - it's definitely an improvement. I also think you decision to exclude extraneous footage, like filing, makes for a better video. Thanks.
Editing can be challenging.
Your modification looks much better than the original solution with the small grub screw protruding from the collar of the eccentric!
I always trip over the word "unloosen", so much so that I finally looked it up in the Oxford English Dictionary: Turns out, this is the interesting and rare case where the prefix "un-" does not mean "the opposite of the following verb". Please excuse someone whose first language is not English for doubting you, and thanks for pointing out this linguistic curiosity.
I think, I will start using the word, just to annoy some of my engineering students next semester ;-)
I like your modifications, so much better than the plans show. Always glad to see your thinking outside the box 😉 .
Glad you like it!
Great stuff. I like the trick using the ball in the rough bore to make sure the part is held securely. It's those details that help get to a part with accurate geometric relationships, so faces are parallel / square as needed. I get that we've seen a lot of filing now in your videos, but it's amazing how important that skill is. Cheers as always.
A ball with a flat on it is a great addition to any toolbox.
Thank You Joe for another interesting video!
The vise flip centering technique is definitely a keeper. Another "why didnt I think of that when" ...
"Go all diving board on you." Brilliant. 😅
JOE P, Wonderful to see you once again. Once again I will praise them for the quality of these brass/bronze castings. This post went by far to quickly once again. Seems these posts from you continue to do that. Well old king of small I sure like what I am seeing and the chat as it procedes. Ya rock fella !
Greetings my northern friend. Thanks for stopping by.
@@joepie221 My pleasure Joe. If these pieces were full sized they would be handled no differently. Many can learn to benefit from these setups.
Hi Joe, great video as always. I would suggest adding an oil reservoir in the now unused step in the eccentric strap and tiny through hole to the bearing surface 👍
Done. Just a hole.
Its a pleasure watching your videos. Thanks
I’m always in awe of your skills.
Thank you very much.
Awesome discussion/demonstration/build….setup gems!!!!
Thanks for stopping by Chuck.
Hi Joe, excellent video as always! I really liked your shop tip in this video, "always clamp in the direction you'll be boring." Excellent advice! Can''t wait until your next post!
Its a very useful tip for soft and critical parts.
This is an absolutely beautiful video,Joe, good to remember in times when you don´t see the meaning of life.Thank you.
Good days just wouldn't be the same if you didn't have some bad days in between.
Great video Joe like your take on these parts . Truly a lot of thought went into your decision . It’s little things like this that put you miles ahead of the rest of us. Thank you Sir.
I appreciate that. Thanks.
I always enjoy watching Joe's working and learning from him at the same time. Thank you Joe, you are the best!
I appreciate that!
Joe, how much more elegant your version is, it’s just beautiful. What a Craftsman.
Thank you.
I’m retired, in my 70s and have never had exposure to milling and lathe work before. It’s totally mesmerising to me. My eyesight is nowhere good enough to try to learn this any more, so I have to be satisfied with the view from the bleachers that UA-cam gives me. Thank you for doing these videos, so I can come along for the ride without exposing any of my body parts to actual risk One of my regular delights is going back and forth between your channel and a similar channel where the host is machining huge parts for mining machinery. To see many of the same operations in giant scale for a Caterpillar D9 bulldozer part keeps me riveted for hour s sometimes
I am not the young buck I once was but I will never give up my machine tools and shop. I am being forced to relocate my shop now which, with God's blessings, will be better and more suited to what I need to accomplish. My monarch 10EE is currently in my buddy's shop. He is into his 80s now and still does gun smith work on my lathe, his south bend lathe and a bridgeport milling machine. We all use those goofy visors that the denist uses to see the details. DRO's have been a god send when you work on machines having smaller dials. For us, we just keep two adages in mind..... RETIRED = As tired today as you were yesterday. And SEMI-RETIRED= you were partially run over by a semi truck.
@@devmeistersuperprecision4155 a common misconception about retirement is that we sit on the porch with our feet up and watch the birds fly past all day. My sons father-in-law puts it this way: “How’s retirement suiting you? Are you getting used to having nothing to do?” “Are you kidding? I’m busier than I’ve ever been! In fact I don’t know how I ever found the time to go to work!”
@@devmeistersuperprecision4155 "RE" means to do something over or again, doesn't it? Then how can I "retire" when I didn't and haven't gotten over being "tired" in the first place? I am 76. Also, I am not ready for bed yet. I'll see myself out.
@@royreynolds108 LOL..... I am with you on that one. Definitely going to remember your last sentence.... No Thanks, I'll see myself out.
Tack!
Thank you.
I like this idea because if you split the eccentric strap, the hole for the crankshaft will be out-of-round. The only negative is with locomotive axles which would have to be disassembled if you had to replace the strap.
You rebore the ID after splitting.
Very clever Joe
Using the small diameter four flute end mill for improved finish was nice advice. Thanks Joe!
I never did like those bosses on the side of the eccentric. They aren't typical for this style of engine. Having the outside flange looks a lot neater. Could be an issue if you decide to add reversing gear later though.
Hi Preso, I do have the reverse kit. It will just presents another opportunity to get creative. :)
As always, excellent work. Your thought processes always amaze me.
Thanks for another fantastic video Joe, I eagerly await your weekly content, it would be great if it was more frequent but there’s only so much one man can do, keep up the fantastic work and I hope you’re happy and healthy and safe and all of the above. Stay safe and all the best from Tasmania, Australia
I'd like to produce more, but it would be tough.
That's not a change of plan. That's an upgrade :)
Really looks nice, Joe...and good info for learners.
As allways a very nice and clean work!! Attention to detail!
very clean alteration as usual beautifully executed
Nice revision to the eccentric ..... Stay Cool in the Shop... It's triple digit here in the Houston area + High humidity....! Good video as always....!
Its hot enough down here to bake the smart right out of ya.
A great way to spend a wet Sunday morning from here in NZ.
Really nice job again Joe and thanks for the video. You make it look so simple. Regards from Wales
A great alternative construction.
Thanks. I like it too.
Thanks for sharing your efforts with us Joe
Cheers
You bet
Thanks. Totally agree with the changes that you made. Might be worth adding an oil hole.
I will.
Joe, You can make and fit an oiler with wadding and a lid on the side of the big end, to prevent wear negating the eventual slot requirement.
I know it’s only a model and show piece for you, it’s just an option I thought of 😊
Regards,
Paul 🇬🇧
Very limited room there. It would be a very small cup.
Another one bits the dust, cracking job!!
Very satisfying.
Where is the lubrication system?
Cups, holes and a pin oiler.
very good job mr joe pie..thanks for your time
My pleasure.
Beutiful videos mostly because of your great thinking, it's so rare these days.
In respect of filing, I would have slipped in a shot of a 4 or 4.5 inch grindette (small angle grinder) next video release slip in a shot of removing the ugly with an 8 inch angle grinder then next video a shot of a Paddys motorbike - a petrol angle grinder with a 14 inch blade.
Sorry, that's just my sense of humour akin to This Old Tony.
If the files are minimal footage I doubt it would loose any viewers, if the files are shown I predict all your viewers will watch & enjoy.
Keep up the greatly respected work your way.
Thanks Joe.
Thank you.
Top decision making and machining!
Looks great.. puts a new spin on the model
So many interesting work holding ideas!
Glad you think so!
interesting design.. looking forward to the next video
Crankshaft coming next.
I just noticed something surprising. When you were showing the prints @15:00, are the instructions in German?
Possibly German or Dutch. These kits were popular all over.
The instructions are, at a minimum, in English and German. Previous episodes of this build show that info.
i am a hobby machinist, currently without a mill or a lathe. my youngest brother recently introduced me to 3D modeling and last wed i started designing something I've thought of building for a decade or more. take a look at this link and see if you could build it. i know there are missing features, dimensions, tolerances, part labels, etc... but this is my first week of learning onshape modeling.
link?
Enjoyed Joe, Well thought out mod... Sure looking good !
Thanks 👍 Its getting very close to being done.
Nice mod to the original design Joe. Should be much more robust.
Hello Joe! I like your clever modification but I didn't see how you got the nice external profile to the eccentric strap. Suddenly it's there, looking lovely, a tribute perhaps to you time-served filing skills. I think the strap does need an oil hole, though I guess that you could just put a drop of oil onto the cap you made. These parts are drop forged incidentally, a lot cheaper than lost wax castings with the quantities of 10 series engines that Stuart Models sells. Once the forging die was made, (long ago) any number of them can be pressed out and the unit cost lowers with every one, whereas lost wax castings remain the same cost per unit due to the processes involved, no matter how many are produced. Later in Stuart Turner's history, extrusion costs came down and the reversing gear for this model with its two eccentrics at each end are produced that way. Please keep making these little videos - I'm learning something new with every one and you always make even tedious or daunting jobs into something ejoyable.
Thanks. I filed and blasted the straps and will add oil holes.
I think that's a big improvement. Countersunk screws would be a bit more 'period' maybe. The original uses a slot in the grub screw which immediately shears off when you tighten it. I think a lot of people use a 6ba hex grub screw instead. It's also interesting that very often the strap is split on both sides. I think that is for when the cam is between the crankshaft webs.
Hi John. I saw that grub screw problem a mile away even before I made the parts. The cap is thin, so c'sunk screws may be tough without making the part differently. The PM strap is split on both sides, but their eccentric was different.
@@joepie221 a while back I sent you some photos of my old plans for the 10V. I used the email address at your website. I don't know if you got them. Let me know if there is a better email to use.
Nice work Joe, have been watching a lot of your channel, keep them coming, Mick in Australia 🇦🇺.
Thanks Mick.
Hi Joe, watching you from Shanghai China. In my 20 plus years of hot forging brass, I’d say that those pieces look more like forgings rather than castings. The parting line is offset. The square corners on the flashing look like they come from the trim dies. These eccentric straps, were they castings rather than forgings would likely not be strong enough. As always, I enjoy watching you work and always learn something new.
Yes they are ‘forged’ parts. The older Stuart No10 parts list calls them ‘Stampings’.
nice solution on the concentric timing joe !
cheers ben.
Thanks Ben.
I like the modifications you made. I cheated on my steam engines. I used thin walled,sealed ball bearings.😂😂😂
Nice
If you would have put the two little screws from the other side, you could have countersunk them and moved them below surface. This way the design would be even cleaner.
Next time. :)
Hi Joe, I like your mod for the valve timing, the Pm Research engine has the same junk pin on it. the bolts on the crank give a nice look I did add those to mine.
I like the mod.
Aren't you leaving out an oil cup too?
Only oil holes on these. The crank gets the cups.
What about the oil hole Joe? I like the modification. Looking good.
They will be there
Pretty cool stuff boss! I learning a lot about set up watching you.
good setup is key to a good result.
@joepie221 I appreciate you sharing your knowledge with us sir. It's a most nonexistent in my area any more.
I like the mod Joe but the SHCS are IMHO an eye sore. Have you considered countersunk screws or even countersunk solid rivets. Rivets perfectly blended would really mess with a few heads :)
The parting lines are centered to the rod, which is off center to the rest of the part you were looking at when wondering.
Edit: Ok, a bit later in the vid, it became clear that you recognised the rod-off-center situaton.
Thanks
Love the mod. I think I would add the bolt to the rod without the split to visually fill the notch the rod has cast in. It would make no difference in operation as your mod is clearly a better set up than the drawing, purely cosmetic.
I may do that just for a visual. Maybe.
Hey Joe. If you are still going to make the reversing gear for this model, you get to make 4 new eccentric straps to replace the 2 you just made.
I do have the reverse kit, but may still incorporate my cams.
My grandad bought a German made model stationary steam engine back in 1920 (2nd hand) for my dads 5th christmas. (It started a lifetime love of all things steam for him)
This engine had a reverse motion on it which was simple as pie
The concentric 'floated' on a 'drive' which in turn had a drive pin facing outwards towards and through the concentric.
This pin went through the concentric collar which had a semi-circular slot machined in it.
When you spun the flywheel one direction, the pin on the drive piece of the setup spun around to one end of the concentric slot giving the valve timing for forward motion and vice versa for reverse.
The model is a fantastic piece of engineering and still works like new over a hundred years later with absolutely no repairs whatsoever to it in that time, my eldest brothers' grandson is now the custodian👍👍
@@WeeShoeyDuglessIt's a great simple way of reversing an engine, the problem is though you either have to manually rotate the engine to reverse it or use a Gooch gear to do so and it doesn't give any adjustment to valve events while running
@@gherkinisgreat
Of course what you say is true, but remember, this is only a model engine and unlikely to be 'slammed' from a forward motion to reverse.
The precision of the engine, the castings, the machining of parts etc, is 2nd to none I have ever seen anywhere.
If loosening something means to make it less tight it seems that un-loosening would be the opposite. That would mean that after you unloosened the set screw you wouldn't be able to change the timing 🙂.
Are you sure ???
@@joepie221 Just turn it in the widdershins direction and everything will turn out fine.
I think it is a similar thing to flammable and inflammable. Untighten and unloosen both mean the same thing.
@@grantofat6438 Seems the words are ganging up on retention - tighten stands alone with untighten, loosen and unloosen all trying to make it lose its grip! What's a poor setscrew to do!
@@craigpuetz7020 LOL !
"Don't bother with the filing. If you've seen it once you've seen it a thousand times." I disagree. What about the poor guy that just found this channel? What about the possible different methods you use? My take. Always show the steps, even if only a few seconds of video time. Show the set ups. There are newbies and non machinists watching. You are already good about not showing repetition, as in if there are multiple parts, show one, and say you did the same to the others. If you omit showing one function you might as well omit all of them. Drill a hole. Omit that , I've seen holes drilled. Face off a piece of stock, forget it, I've seen that too. See what I mean? Am I being pickey? Maybe. I truly enjoy your videos. I am a woodworker but really like what you can do with a piece of metal. And from time to time I learn something I can use in my craft. Thank you for sharing. Have a great day and stay safe.🙂🙂
I was gonna say the same thing. People can always fast forward through it if they think they’ve got nothing to learn from it or are bored by it.
Too many of my favourite interesting channels are slimming down their videos to suit the algorithm or to suit longer term members, but I enjoy seeing all the details.
💯
There's hundreds of videos about filing on UA-cam, this video is about making the parts not just filing. You're being incredibly picky 😂
@@JohnBlaze505 - but how many people making videos actually have the experience to do it correctly? I have a couple of channels that I have watched that actually show the art of using a file that show the proper way. This being one, Clickspring (great videos) and the German Master Stephan Gottswinter, a must for precision machining in the same vein as Joe has presented in his latest couple of series. Oxtools has a real appreciation for the toothed tools also. Yep it’s just a file……there’s a lot to learn. My 2 cents 😊
Heh, you will get some distortion even clamping along the axis. Dunno if you can measure it, bit there's going to be some degree of movement from the material squishing under the pressure.
Slightly more practical than measuring the thickness of s sharpie mark.
Minimal in comparison if it occurs at all, but you are correct. If the part shows dimples from the clamping, you might lighten up on part 2.
Your modification to the design is, I think, a good one. Do you plan to add any holes to the connecting rod to allow for lubrication of the journal? KOKO!
Absolutely.
I always hate a set screw on a round shaft. I know it needs to be adjustable and not really a way to change that.
I'll calculate the position and put a slight undercut on the shaft. Flats are better, but tougher to cut prior to timing the engine. Not impossible, but way easier after a dimple appears.
2 of everything? Does that include mistakes?
Nope
Joe , fantastic as usual,I was wondering if the eccentric rod gets an Oiler. Love the show cheers,Tony
Ultimately, yes.
Looks good I like the mods
What's the difference between a setscrew and a grub screw? You used the terms interchangeably
About 4000 miles. US/UK same part
Thought as much. Internet said something about socket hex vs slot but can't really trust the internet right
Hi Joe, how do you de-burr the inside of the shaft-hole after drilling and tapping for the lock-screw? I always seem to end up marking the shaft-hole where I have used a needle-file. Cheers,
Float the reamer back through the hole by hand. A file is also OK, just take your time.
A small ball tool in a diegrinder is what I use. Type depending on size and material.
Joe, that will sure keep the guys guessing how you timed it,, if they haven’t been watching. Regards Frank 😊
I like to make people think.
Another great video. Thanks. I was wondering if leaving the bolt to adjust the clearance of the rod on the shaft out, would the balance be effected?
I'm not expecting that.
Dear machinists i need your help ! I am looking for coolant fluid for my manual lathe(i mostly work with steel and aluminum,sometimes brass,rarely stainless steel) that is not white liquid (the one that goes bad after a week or two and smells like sewer and looks like 2% milk ).Something that can last a long time.I know there are two ,three types(synthetic ,half synthetic mineral etc) but i dont know which one is which.
So if you guys know the type please write what i am looking for.
There are many that look like the like the same white coolant. I actually use one of those, a Mobil product, but I mix it well on the rich side. Being in the home shop this doesn't cost a lot more and makes it last a LOT longer, and it doesn't cause rust. Otherwise many people have good results using WD40. Pretty sure Joe uses WD40 when he needs coolant / lube during cutting.
My CNC machine uses Trim-Sol. Its a teal green water mixed coolant. Mine has never gone rancid and sees some very extreme heat. If I were to charge my lathe cooling system, thats what I'd use.
@@joepie221 Is that mineral oil or synthetic/half synthetic ?
@@armageddontools To be honest, I don't know. I mix it with water at about a 12% dilution and off ya go.
@@joepie221 Thats my problem:) People recommend brand (i tried on some forums and other videos)which i cant obtain in my country ,and i need the type of oil so i can find something named different from other company that has exact same property's.
Very entertaining very nice.
Would a nylon tipped set screw hold the eccentric securely enough? I see them at McMaster Carr
I'd choose brass over nylon.
I would be afraid of a nylon tip but would consider a brass tip.
Ok. Thanks
Leave the filing in lest we miss something, it is not all about machines, it is rather about preparation and planning to complete all the tasks required to get the part. The cleverest tools are on the ends of your arms, much like a novelty balloon blower ,they are ordinary balloons but in clever hands.
Thanks.
For those who don't like the filing, there is always the fast forward button. Or will they complain about the effort that it takes to do that too. Am I being too cynical??? Don't think so. I have seen the calibre of some of the comments on Joe's previous videos.
Why you leave out the oil channel?
The eccentric is now the oil channel.
Niiice! 😃👍👍
👍
🦅 🇺🇸 🦅
Wheres the oiler ?
They will be done before assembly. Just holes on the rods.
Good video
☹🇬🇧