Constructive criticism #1 If at all possible route your injector return line back to the fuel supply prior to the pump, that’s not ideal but would insure good fuel flow through the system, and prevent a very rich running condition, if you wind up with unexplainable air in the fuel supply conditions, a small fuel tank above the generator maybe 2-4L would be sufficient and somewhat replicate its oem system, using your supply pump to top off that tank, either automated or constant circulation with a return to Brupegs tanks. Constructive criticism #2 you will need a fairly ridiculous amount of airflow to cool those if you want them to last, i don’t know if a bilge blower is enough when the ambient air is warm and you need a fair amount of power from it, it may thin the oil beyond its ability to hold pressure. but if you possibly can put a oil temperature and possibly pressure sensor on it in some fashion and add it to your bru-net display it may give you a way to monitor what’s going on with your generator. As always glad to see you guys in the water and in good company.
Hi just a comment on the injector return line: often diesels use the excess fuel being returned to cool the injector down. You might need to plumb that line back in to avoid longer term issues. Love the videos and great work!
No fuel return is a recipe for disaster. Every diesel engine has a fuel return lines. This engine is a very short term. They got to buy a proper water cool genset. Plus to keep the sound transfer down you have to suspend on rods sitting on springs.
Definitely can not block the drain line from the injector. That HAS to be able to drain, because 1, it stops the injector from internally pressurising and causing problems and 2, that return diesel also helps cool the injector.
A diesel injector requires a dribble rail. There is always leakage passed the spool that lifts the needle for the injector nozzle. Unable to escape, the pressure will build behind the spool until eventually it will not lift sufficiently. The engine will slow down, the governor will compensate and apply more fuel into an injector that is increasingly restricted. The injection line pressure will keep rising until something fails. Unless over the past 30 years they have fundamentally changed in operation.
I think you will have to put a one way valve on each outlet of the TEE or the fuel will draw from the least resistace side I had that same set up long ago
Very cool mod on the Genset! Just a heads up, I have 2 of those Gensets, one at home one at my office. They are cheap and nasty but they are simple and easy to run. Just install a piece of fine stainless mesh between the air intake and the air filter on the side it bolts onto the manifold. These gensets tend to vibrate quite a bit and on both of mine we had issues with the air filter actually breaking apart from vibrations and the loose pieces been sucked into the cylinder head. By putting in the mesh it prevents that from happening. Also on the big glass fuse in the plastic holder, for the 12v DC starter line, ditch it ASAP, its a piece of crap, replace it with a new blade fuse holder and blade fuse. They don't rattle loose like the glass one does! And they cheap as chips!🤣 BTW love videos and watching all the progress!!
have you got an independant fuel shutoff for the genset? Thinking it might be beneficial if there is a problem with the genset then you can still run the main engine/other genset when you get it.
I'm concerned that the fan being on the output may mean the bearings get dried out, now that you have 2 holes in the bottom, i think it would be better to have 2 fans pushing air into the box. A trick with lorry (truck) drivers in the old days was to close down the fuel return to force more diesel into the engine for a bit more power when clmbing hills, but i guess it depends on how the fuel is metered.
Do you think the high engine room ambient temperature being drawn in will negate/minimise the effectiveness of the the air cooling? It may be better forcing the air in with the fan as that would have a wind chill effect (all be it minimal). It’d also probably extend the fans life by not being in the hot extracted air drying out the bearings? Just thoughts, good luck with the trials 👍
To finish the edge of a large hole like what you drilled into the bottom of your genset cover just take a piece of either 3/8 or 1/2 inch air hose and cut a slit along the length of it on one side, roll it up backwards and place it inside the hole. If you cut it to the right length you don't need any glue or screws to hold it in place.
I might have done a few things differently... shrouds for engine and generator cooling fan inlets and draw external air also air for combustion external. Day tank to gravity feed.. less to go wrong and use hand pump? Fan pumping IN using a car radiator fan.. and is the fan you have continuous rated and for that heat? Overheat thermostat? use a modified room thermostat? I just bought 2 new 😻 deep cycle batteries (my power needs are less than yours) lead carbon type.. now to redo wiring etc to new regulations for inland UK boat safety certificate. Big windy storm over UK at this moment.
I’d put a ball valve after the t to the genset fuel line. Need to be able to isolate it. I’d also prefer to see you draw fresh cooler air from outside verses the hot engine room air. Gonna get hot in there if you’ve been running the main. I’m sure it would not be easy to do though.
For info, The injector return can not be plugged, Put it in the suction side of the feul pump. Only a little t. Y hope you used a switch between shore power and generator, If not there is the danger of feeding back to the shore, (Risk op 230 volts on the sore plug when not connected) Or shore into the generator. Simple way to do it safe is to mount a 230 volts contactor in the both lines switching to generator if it runs (Coil on generator side) You switch whit no and nc contacts between both, . These little generators are a hadacke lol.... Its more sensible to make a water cooled set whit a 1500 RPM engine and a 4 pole generator head on it, Way more quiet. Those aircooled sets are fine for emergency, Not for permanent use.
Would be cool if you could use a 3 or 4 cylinder diesel water cooled and have it use the main diesel engine cooling system like a APU system especially in colder environments like the Antarctic but then been in a colder environment would help the aire cooled engine anyways always fun watching others solve problems and come up with ideas and work around
I think I would have had the pump go into a 5 gal tank (fuel can) and then let That gravity feed down to the motor. Probably more reliable. Boat rocking and a bit of air gets in the line…
Zero chance of air getting into this line as its feed via gravity from the main fuel tanks to the pump. The pump just makes sure there is enough pressure to take the load off the injector pump
It might be easier on your fan if you use it to force cooler air into the box than having it drawing out the hot air placing the fan motor in a higher temperature environment.
Maybe, but then the downside of your scenario is that all the air entering the box has to go through the fan. With the fan at the top even if it fails natural convection will allow the air that enters through the big gap at the bottom to pass the stationary fan and escape. Restricting the potential supply of cooling air from entering the enclosure seems more risky. In any case, the fan itself might well be specced to operate at the kind of temperatures involved, and that's the kind of thing I'm pretty confident the Brupeg team will have thought through.
@@GaiusSonofGermanicus The restrictions in the flow of the air would be the same either way. As far as the fan is concerned. If the fan wasn’t at the top then the 90° elbow could be removed which would make for even less resistance.
@@blimpcommander1337 What I'm thinking is that if the inlet into the box is limited to what looks about 100-125mm (maybe a little larger) that will cut down the natural cool air incoming. As it gets warmed by the gen set it will rise (obviously) so it seems to be advantages of the current arrangments would outweigh the downsides. The hottest air will be at the top, and that is where the fan is located. I do take your point about the elbow, and a straight shot would improve airflow whether passive or fan forced. It's an interesting set of issues and compromises to weigh.
Double the exhaust pipe diameter from the muffler,this will stop the engine choking the pipe over a certain length it will within a few months constant use the pipe will get gunk buildup first sign will be chunks of black oily soot when you start up,and the sound will improve slightly.
Don’t want to be a stick in the mud , but you will hate that generator with a passion within a year. It is way to light duty for the application. Love the rest of all your work.
What happened to the preventive safety measure of wearing hard hats in the engine room. When you're in rough waters, you'll start smashing your heads on all the installed equipment and engine furniture. Fans work best pushing cold air over drawing out heat
nice work, but you will need to add that return line, diesel fuel injectors need them, it cools and lubricates the injector. to fix it, you will have to buy an new injector. Also what was plumbed in to the second port on the injection pump?
That Fisher Panda enclosure was pretty good at quieting the original genset, you might consider adding something like Soundown soundproofing back to the inside of enclosure.
Hi there I love watching your set up but just a thought but if u worried about the heat build up remove the silencer and place it or fit another else were as it has baffles for sound and back pressure etc it also gains heat or anther option would be to rap the exhust parts in the box's to transfer yhe heat away
Are the 240 volt genset and inverters isolated from shore power input? Enjoy watching your weekly endeavors, watch the genset return line omission, hope your sea trials are successful, cheers.
Love your work iam an ex seaman my only concern is all the cable work you have ... Not being a smartass at all just you have a shitload of cables all over the show ... I hope all goes well for you
Completely agree with you. There is a lot everywhere. It’s on the road map to be tidied up in the next few weeks. While developing the monitoring system we did t make it neat we made it fast. Once it’s mostly done we will tidy up the cable work the same as we did for the solar and battery compartment
Just a little insight you have two small holes in the front cover you can run a couple of wires to the battery a terminator them there so you can jump start the engine or connect a battery charger so you don’t need to pull the covers off
I must have missed something. I don’t see how you can draw fuel for the genset from the fuel line for the main engine if you do not intend to convert the genset to run on veggie oil?
The main engine is dual fuel. So we have valves up stream to determine which fuel to send down stream. While steaming with the main engine we don’t need the genset as the main alternator provides power to the boat. While stationary we are able to select diesel only and run the genset
Im 8mins in, do you have temperature monitoring of the engine? airtemp of the air in the box? that could be used to trigger the fan automatically at one temperature (will aid quick warm up?) and alarm in case of fan failure at a higher temperature. Configure brunet to automatically start up the generator at a certain (low) battery capacity?
This type of control option will likely be built into the system but for now it’s just a dumb generator. Key on, fuel and fan, off we go. We had a failure out on the water and brunet picked it up. So it’s only upwards from here with reliability
Most likely won’t convert this to vege. To hard for such a small gain. Its uses half a litre an hour so that’s a return on investment of about 30yrs if we convert
Hi guys In the future when you get a water cool genset . If you suspend on rods sitting on springs . This will greatly reduce noise transfer to the hull of the ship.
I did mention the other day about those fuel solenoids. Just take the plunger out screw it back in and use the governor red lever to switch it off. These generators need as spares, * a set of brushes, * a 240v regulator module (It's that black horseshoe shaped module) and * fuel cutoff solenoid. * a complete replacement governor (just for the springs). Re the governor springs, they work harden and break and it is next to impossible to get the generator to run under varying load without the correct tension springs. ** For the love of cats, *Take a photo of which holes the springs go in because if they do break, trying to test all the bloody hole combinations to get it regulating RPM properly takes hours, which can be saved with a simple pic of the governor* The horseshoe shaped VRM has a small brass screw in it and that's used to adjust the voltage. You can compensate for long cable runs by upping the voltage a bit with that screw BTW. All those 4 things are cheap. A place called Able Sales has all that stuff. Tell them it's a Yanmar single cylinder air cooled Diesel clone. They sell whole motors too and there's often overstock sales on them. * Also now you have a proper electric lift pump, carry a spare. I have one and it died under warranty after about 9 months. The replacement has been going strong for 18 months at 50 hrs a week but I still have a spare. * I strongly recommend a Ryco fuel filter/water separator R2132UA between the pump and the engine. It has a bleed port on top and multiple barbed hose fitting options with 2x supplied blanking plugs. Word of advice: If you do get the Ryco filter, they don't come with barbed hose fittings. If you need to use 90deg fittings get the hose place to sort it out for you as the filter housing takes tapered end or whatever they're called style fittings and the never tighten where you want them to. Hose places can braze fittings so I'd get them to do that if you need 90 deg fittings. After 20 or so friggen visits (maybe an exaggeration) to the hose place trying to sort out the bloody 90 deg fittings I should've just got them to braze some 90's on an adapter. It would've saved a lot of buggering around. ** How's the cat?
I would be interested to see the temperature of your exhaust in the engine room, with and without the blankets. You received some criticism when you installed the system.
We often receive criticism but we generally ignore the naysayers (unless what they say increases the safety or reliability of the boat and it’s something we have missed) and copy what the trawler guys do because it works, it’s cost effective, it is up to survey specs etc.
A little late for this idea, but why not duct the cooling air inlet on the engine to the outside and then add vents elsewhere to let the hot air out. The engine then ventilates the compartment all by itself.
Solenoids are common failures. A good operation of the switch as done should be fine. More electrical tidying & safe fuel line. Big items covered. More scuba time. Might need own anchor point at sea with cement block or similiar. Saves on anchor purchases. But always a juggling act with priority list. Good night lights on boat or spot lamps may be cheap alternative. Life as you know it will change from building to maintenance & seafaring totally amazing outcome.
Are you adding a high-temp shutoff that will kill the fuel pump and blower motor if it senses a fire in the box? As well as probably a high-temp alarm in Brunet?
P Clamps and Cable Ties, best things in a toolbox. Looking very slick Damian with fuel lines and electrical nicely tucked away. Hope you and the crew enjoy a few days out on the pick ⚓ and with the sea trials. 🚢
Hi Damian, I just want to say mate you are one incredible person I just love to have a 10th of your experience that you have got every time I watch these videos I just admire your experience on doing things. Keep up the good work love and appreciate you all , Cliff from Logan City, Queensland, Australia 🇦🇺👨🏻🦽
Very cool.. Like your show The return line is there for a reason. The bean counters would have removed it at the factory if it was not critical part. Also stick the fan under the box as a blower. Fan
Gotta agree with you. I'm anal about fire safety especially on boats. That pump is too close to potentially hot surface and sparks. If nothing else, leave it outside the box where it was placed to mark the bolt holes for it.
@ProjectBrupeg hi friend for some reason you tube is not opening a comment box the normal way so the only way I can say what I want is piggy back this way. I've been a subscriber for a few years and enjoyed the journey , but I just realized you have missed a major component in your engine your. You need fresh air pipe ventilation pipe brought in and your engine intake should be breathing outside air and that goes for your diesel gensets. Those engines breathing hot air is a recipe for major internals felling, especially in rough weather and hot and humid weather.
Just to add one more observation: If you're drawing the air into the box, if you would have confined the "inlet" openings to the rear of the box, then the cooling air would have to flow over the entire engine on it's way out, increasing cooling efficiency of the entire generator. I also agree with several other commenters, you need a proper, water-cooled, generator for the type of operations you are contemplated. Love your channel and efforts!
I know they cost a lot of money but you will eventually end up with a water-cooled gen set. For the operations, you are planning and people trying to sleep, that air-cooled set is not going to be a favorite of your crew. Will there be a monitor for the fan operation? If not what will a failure bring? Good luck on your journey. We have all enjoyed it.
Dear Jess and Damian, Nice to see how you made a back up to the solar panels for producing electrical power. This generator needs to be very sound proof of course otherwise the engine will be annoying when you want to go to sleep while the generator in the night is running for loading the batteries in Brupeg. Willeke and I look forward to your next vlog and wish you lots of success in finishing all the details of this expedition ship plus we send love from the Netherlands
May I suggest that you run the case exhaust up the exhaust chaseway to elimanate heat buildup in the engine room
Constructive criticism #1
If at all possible route your injector return line back to the fuel supply prior to the pump, that’s not ideal but would insure good fuel flow through the system, and prevent a very rich running condition, if you wind up with unexplainable air in the fuel supply conditions, a small fuel tank above the generator maybe 2-4L would be sufficient and somewhat replicate its oem system, using your supply pump to top off that tank, either automated or constant circulation with a return to Brupegs tanks.
Constructive criticism #2
you will need a fairly ridiculous amount of airflow to cool those if you want them to last, i don’t know if a bilge blower is enough when the ambient air is warm and you need a fair amount of power from it, it may thin the oil beyond its ability to hold pressure. but if you possibly can put a oil temperature and possibly pressure sensor on it in some fashion and add it to your bru-net display it may give you a way to monitor what’s going on with your generator.
As always glad to see you guys in the water and in good company.
Dear Brupeg, does this boat get on plane or just displace water?
Displacement only
Ah, a life skill… “don’t twangle with the holes”.
Hi just a comment on the injector return line: often diesels use the excess fuel being returned to cool the injector down. You might need to plumb that line back in to avoid longer term issues.
Love the videos and great work!
That's right
They tend to run very rich without a return line. And wind up with air accumulation in the system with no way to bleed it on its own.
No fuel return is a recipe for disaster. Every diesel engine has a fuel return lines.
This engine is a very short term. They got to buy a proper water cool genset.
Plus to keep the sound transfer down you have to suspend on rods sitting on springs.
Yep , needs a return line
Why not add a day tank above the generator to receive and stockpile the pumped fuel
Definitely can not block the drain line from the injector. That HAS to be able to drain, because 1, it stops the injector from internally pressurising and causing problems and 2, that return diesel also helps cool the injector.
A diesel injector requires a dribble rail. There is always leakage passed the spool that lifts the needle for the injector nozzle. Unable to escape, the pressure will build behind the spool until eventually it will not lift sufficiently. The engine will slow down, the governor will compensate and apply more fuel into an injector that is increasingly restricted. The injection line pressure will keep rising until something fails.
Unless over the past 30 years they have fundamentally changed in operation.
no they haven't.
I think you will have to put a one way valve on each outlet of the TEE or the fuel will draw from the least resistace side
I had that same set up long ago
Ahh good point. I’ll add that in. Thanks Garth
@@ProjectBrupeg some valves would perhaps also be an idea, so you can isolate each branch/motor off of the fuel line.
Very cool mod on the Genset! Just a heads up, I have 2 of those Gensets, one at home one at my office. They are cheap and nasty but they are simple and easy to run. Just install a piece of fine stainless mesh between the air intake and the air filter on the side it bolts onto the manifold. These gensets tend to vibrate quite a bit and on both of mine we had issues with the air filter actually breaking apart from vibrations and the loose pieces been sucked into the cylinder head. By putting in the mesh it prevents that from happening. Also on the big glass fuse in the plastic holder, for the 12v DC starter line, ditch it ASAP, its a piece of crap, replace it with a new blade fuse holder and blade fuse. They don't rattle loose like the glass one does! And they cheap as chips!🤣 BTW love videos and watching all the progress!!
Hi, so you've made it no fuel return , oops
have you got an independant fuel shutoff for the genset? Thinking it might be beneficial if there is a problem with the genset then you can still run the main engine/other genset when you get it.
I'm concerned that the fan being on the output may mean the bearings get dried out, now that you have 2 holes in the bottom, i think it would be better to have 2 fans pushing air into the box.
A trick with lorry (truck) drivers in the old days was to close down the fuel return to force more diesel into the engine for a bit more power when clmbing hills, but i guess it depends on how the fuel is metered.
Do you think the high engine room ambient temperature being drawn in will negate/minimise the effectiveness of the the air cooling? It may be better forcing the air in with the fan as that would have a wind chill effect (all be it minimal). It’d also probably extend the fans life by not being in the hot extracted air drying out the bearings? Just thoughts, good luck with the trials 👍
Beware of melting fan blades!
To finish the edge of a large hole like what you drilled into the bottom of your genset cover just take a piece of either 3/8 or 1/2 inch air hose and cut a slit along the length of it on one side, roll it up backwards and place it inside the hole. If you cut it to the right length you don't need any glue or screws to hold it in place.
I might have done a few things differently...
shrouds for engine and generator cooling fan inlets and draw external air also air for combustion external.
Day tank to gravity feed.. less to go wrong and use hand pump?
Fan pumping IN using a car radiator fan.. and is the fan you have continuous rated and for that heat?
Overheat thermostat? use a modified room thermostat?
I just bought 2 new 😻 deep cycle batteries (my power needs are less than yours) lead carbon type.. now to redo wiring etc to new regulations for inland UK boat safety certificate.
Big windy storm over UK at this moment.
Buy two solenoids. If it's popped once, chances are it will again.
I’d put a ball valve after the t to the genset fuel line. Need to be able to isolate it. I’d also prefer to see you draw fresh cooler air from outside verses the hot engine room air. Gonna get hot in there if you’ve been running the main. I’m sure it would not be easy to do though.
For info, The injector return can not be plugged, Put it in the suction side of the feul pump. Only a little t. Y hope you used a switch between shore power and generator, If not there is the danger of feeding back to the shore, (Risk op 230 volts on the sore plug when not connected) Or shore into the generator. Simple way to do it safe is to mount a 230 volts contactor in the both lines switching to generator if it runs (Coil on generator side) You switch whit no and nc contacts between both, . These little generators are a hadacke lol.... Its more sensible to make a water cooled set whit a 1500 RPM engine and a 4 pole generator head on it, Way more quiet. Those aircooled sets are fine for emergency, Not for permanent use.
Would be cool if you could use a 3 or 4 cylinder diesel water cooled and have it use the main diesel engine cooling system like a APU system especially in colder environments like the Antarctic but then been in a colder environment would help the aire cooled engine anyways always fun watching others solve problems and come up with ideas and work around
I think I would have had the pump go into a 5 gal tank (fuel can) and then let That gravity feed down to the motor. Probably more reliable. Boat rocking and a bit of air gets in the line…
Zero chance of air getting into this line as its feed via gravity from the main fuel tanks to the pump. The pump just makes sure there is enough pressure to take the load off the injector pump
It might be easier on your fan if you use it to force cooler air into the box than having it drawing out the hot air placing the fan motor in a higher temperature environment.
Yes, it will last longer. Fans usually also perform better when blowing and not sucking.
Maybe, but then the downside of your scenario is that all the air entering the box has to go through the fan. With the fan at the top even if it fails natural convection will allow the air that enters through the big gap at the bottom to pass the stationary fan and escape. Restricting the potential supply of cooling air from entering the enclosure seems more risky. In any case, the fan itself might well be specced to operate at the kind of temperatures involved, and that's the kind of thing I'm pretty confident the Brupeg team will have thought through.
Add to that ,draw outside air in ,not the warm engine room air ??
@@GaiusSonofGermanicus The restrictions in the flow of the air would be the same either way. As far as the fan is concerned. If the fan wasn’t at the top then the 90° elbow could be removed which would make for even less resistance.
@@blimpcommander1337 What I'm thinking is that if the inlet into the box is limited to what looks about 100-125mm (maybe a little larger) that will cut down the natural cool air incoming. As it gets warmed by the gen set it will rise (obviously) so it seems to be advantages of the current arrangments would outweigh the downsides. The hottest air will be at the top, and that is where the fan is located. I do take your point about the elbow, and a straight shot would improve airflow whether passive or fan forced. It's an interesting set of issues and compromises to weigh.
Double the exhaust pipe diameter from the muffler,this will stop the engine choking the pipe over a certain length it will within a few months constant use the pipe will get gunk buildup first sign will be chunks of black oily soot when you start up,and the sound will improve slightly.
Don’t want to be a stick in the mud , but you will hate that generator with a passion within a year.
It is way to light duty for the application.
Love the rest of all your work.
We agree. We have to work with what we have sometimes but it’s on the list to change out as soon as we can. J
Scott,
Have them add a Ham Radio to this build and a computer that runs Vara FM/HF
I'd recommend carrying a spare fuel pump. I just replaced the exact model you have. Failed after 6 months. All the best!
Definitely suggest re-thinking the blocked off return lines..
What happened to the preventive safety measure of wearing hard hats in the engine room. When you're in rough waters, you'll start smashing your heads on all the installed equipment and engine furniture.
Fans work best pushing cold air over drawing out heat
You'll need to hook up those leak off hoses as you'll end up with hydraulic lock on the injector and pump and possibly damage those components
nice work, but you will need to add that return line, diesel fuel injectors need them, it cools and lubricates the injector. to fix it, you will have to buy an new injector. Also what was plumbed in to the second port on the injection pump?
Remove the muffler it wil decrease the amount of heat in the box and for the return for the injectior you can move it to the inlet of the fuel pump
Dame, is that GenSet good to work on Veggie oil like the main motor has been built to? now you have tied it into the same fuel line??
That Fisher Panda enclosure was pretty good at quieting the original genset, you might consider adding something like Soundown soundproofing back to the inside of enclosure.
This episode was electrifying. All the best to you all!
Hi there I love watching your set up but just a thought but if u worried about the heat build up remove the silencer and place it or fit another else were as it has baffles for sound and back pressure etc it also gains heat or anther option would be to rap the exhust parts in the box's to transfer yhe heat away
Are the 240 volt genset and inverters isolated from shore power input? Enjoy watching your weekly endeavors, watch the genset return line omission, hope your sea trials are successful, cheers.
Yes they are. There is a RCD breaker for each source and they go through the break before make switch
Excellent, so many regulations to address.@@ProjectBrupeg
You guys do such great looking work
Dame, you hit the lottery when you married Jess ❤
I very much agree with you
Love your work iam an ex seaman my only concern is all the cable work you have ... Not being a smartass at all just you have a shitload of cables all over the show ...
I hope all goes well for you
Completely agree with you. There is a lot everywhere. It’s on the road map to be tidied up in the next few weeks. While developing the monitoring system we did t make it neat we made it fast. Once it’s mostly done we will tidy up the cable work the same as we did for the solar and battery compartment
I like that Generator.. Cool..
That would be a 5/16 fuel line. Lol
Hey, you worked hard to get to this point. Enjoy a few days on board out at sea and I hope you have a great break.
Just a little insight you have two small holes in the front cover you can run a couple of wires to the battery a terminator them there so you can jump start the engine or connect a battery charger so you don’t need to pull the covers off
I must have missed something. I don’t see how you can draw fuel for the genset from the fuel line for the main engine if you do not intend to convert the genset to run on veggie oil?
The main engine is dual fuel. So we have valves up stream to determine which fuel to send down stream. While steaming with the main engine we don’t need the genset as the main alternator provides power to the boat. While stationary we are able to select diesel only and run the genset
@@ProjectBrupeg Thank you. Yup, that’s the part I missed. Makes sense now.
Another peg in the wall.
Hey would love to know scott's call sign. Im also an amateur radio operator been following brupeg for 2 years now.
Hey Kelly, Amateur callsign is VK2JAX. Cheers, Scott.
Hi Julie and Duncan
Keep up the good work.... show the world...
Im 8mins in, do you have temperature monitoring of the engine? airtemp of the air in the box? that could be used to trigger the fan automatically at one temperature (will aid quick warm up?) and alarm in case of fan failure at a higher temperature. Configure brunet to automatically start up the generator at a certain (low) battery capacity?
This type of control option will likely be built into the system but for now it’s just a dumb generator. Key on, fuel and fan, off we go. We had a failure out on the water and brunet picked it up. So it’s only upwards from here with reliability
Hi Scott
love these videos!
Hey Dame, will you need to make any changes to the genset when you switch over to veggie oil?
Most likely won’t convert this to vege. To hard for such a small gain. Its uses half a litre an hour so that’s a return on investment of about 30yrs if we convert
7.9mm = 5/16 of a banana.
Hi guys
In the future when you get a water cool genset . If you suspend on rods sitting on springs . This will greatly reduce noise transfer to the hull of the ship.
Its got to be thrilling for Jess and Dame and everyone whose work and effort went into this dream. Happy steaming. 26:19
I did mention the other day about those fuel solenoids. Just take the plunger out screw it back in and use the governor red lever to switch it off.
These generators need as spares,
* a set of brushes,
* a 240v regulator module (It's that black horseshoe shaped module) and
* fuel cutoff solenoid.
* a complete replacement governor (just for the springs).
Re the governor springs, they work harden and break and it is next to impossible to get the generator to run under varying load without the correct tension springs.
** For the love of cats, *Take a photo of which holes the springs go in because if they do break, trying to test all the bloody hole combinations to get it regulating RPM properly takes hours, which can be saved with a simple pic of the governor*
The horseshoe shaped VRM has a small brass screw in it and that's used to adjust the voltage. You can compensate for long cable runs by upping the voltage a bit with that screw BTW.
All those 4 things are cheap. A place called Able Sales has all that stuff. Tell them it's a Yanmar single cylinder air cooled Diesel clone. They sell whole motors too and there's often overstock sales on them.
* Also now you have a proper electric lift pump, carry a spare. I have one and it died under warranty after about 9 months. The replacement has been going strong for 18 months at 50 hrs a week but I still have a spare.
* I strongly recommend a Ryco fuel filter/water separator R2132UA between the pump and the engine. It has a bleed port on top and multiple barbed hose fitting options with 2x supplied blanking plugs.
Word of advice:
If you do get the Ryco filter, they don't come with barbed hose fittings. If you need to use 90deg fittings get the hose place to sort it out for you as the filter housing takes tapered end or whatever they're called style fittings and the never tighten where you want them to. Hose places can braze fittings so I'd get them to do that if you need 90 deg fittings.
After 20 or so friggen visits (maybe an exaggeration) to the hose place trying to sort out the bloody 90 deg fittings I should've just got them to braze some 90's on an adapter. It would've saved a lot of buggering around.
** How's the cat?
I would be interested to see the temperature of your exhaust in the engine room, with and without the blankets. You received some criticism when you installed the system.
We often receive criticism but we generally ignore the naysayers (unless what they say increases the safety or reliability of the boat and it’s something we have missed) and copy what the trawler guys do because it works, it’s cost effective, it is up to survey specs etc.
@@ProjectBrupeg I know, but it would be good to put them in there spots at times. Looking forward to the sea trials.
I assume the fuel is already filtered to the gen set?
Yes. Two big racors
Duncan is such a bloody legend
The gen set is vege oil compatible?
Possibly but we won’t be converting that genset. Too little fuel burn to make it worth the effort.
Hey dame that was some smooth ducting (I expect a shout out now 😂)
Very good
Keep more heat out of the box by heat wrapping the generator exhaust that's inside the box
Exciting. Another step forward. Gen-rally speaking
Generatorly speaking.
@@richardsybrandy1 😂
Just a quick idea. Its more efficient to force air in rather than pull it out or extract it. Quick fix reverse fan
A little late for this idea, but why not duct the cooling air inlet on the engine to the outside and then add vents elsewhere to let the hot air out. The engine then ventilates the compartment all by itself.
You can get those rubber fernco connectors for 100x90pvc. Would probabaly be better for that blower fan.
I watched this video and my brain bled. Who's a clever boy then ?
Solenoids are common failures. A good operation of the switch as done should be fine. More electrical tidying & safe fuel line.
Big items covered. More scuba time. Might need own anchor point at sea with cement block or similiar.
Saves on anchor purchases. But always a juggling act with priority list. Good night lights on boat or spot lamps may be cheap alternative. Life as you know it will change from building to maintenance & seafaring totally amazing outcome.
Are you adding a high-temp shutoff that will kill the fuel pump and blower motor if it senses a fire in the box? As well as probably a high-temp alarm in Brunet?
This old sailor recommends u carry spare everything!
That was one smooth Jen set installation - great channel
P Clamps and Cable Ties, best things in a toolbox. Looking very slick Damian with fuel lines and electrical nicely tucked away.
Hope you and the crew enjoy a few days out on the pick ⚓ and with the sea trials. 🚢
From France 🇫🇷 🥂🍾👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼🙏🏾
Maybe a couple Wind Generators be handy! Solar is good but only 8 or 9 hours a day!!
Hi Damian, I just want to say mate you are one incredible person I just love to have a 10th of your experience that you have got every time I watch these videos I just admire your experience on doing things. Keep up the good work love and appreciate you all , Cliff from Logan City, Queensland, Australia 🇦🇺👨🏻🦽
Very cool..
Like your show
The return line is there for a reason. The bean counters would have removed it at the factory if it was not critical part.
Also stick the fan under the box as a blower.
Fan
I would have put an inline fuel filter to the generator 😁😁
Folks, not loving the single clamps on the fuel lines at the generator, with those lines able to flop around.
Please put the fuel pump higher and out of the box...If there is any fuel leak, it can start a fire...!!!
Gotta agree with you. I'm anal about fire safety especially on boats. That pump is too close to potentially hot surface and sparks. If nothing else, leave it outside the box where it was placed to mark the bolt holes for it.
I’m glad to see you’re having solenoid troubles too 😅 mines been a nightmare. Good luck getting it sorted ❤
We have another on order. It it keeps being a dick well just remove it from the housing and fit an external solenoid
@ProjectBrupeg hi friend for some reason you tube is not opening a comment box the normal way so the only way I can say what I want is piggy back this way. I've been a subscriber for a few years and enjoyed the journey , but I just realized you have missed a major component in your engine your. You need fresh air pipe ventilation pipe brought in and your engine intake should be breathing outside air and that goes for your diesel gensets. Those engines breathing hot air is a recipe for major internals felling, especially in rough weather and hot and humid weather.
Just to add one more observation: If you're drawing the air into the box, if you would have confined the "inlet" openings to the rear of the box, then the cooling air would have to flow over the entire engine on it's way out, increasing cooling efficiency of the entire generator. I also agree with several other commenters, you need a proper, water-cooled, generator for the type of operations you are contemplated. Love your channel and efforts!
Awesome Scott! De VK4KTW Did you bring any radios with you? Hf? Dmr? Has the captain considered having amateur radios on board?
I've got HF, 2m, 70cm and DSTR, however nothing hooked up on the boat as yet in terms of ham gear.
Hey Jess & Dame. Pickles EX Military Auctions has a lot of marine items up this month. Worth a look for Brupeg.. 😎
Thanks. We’ll check them out
I know they cost a lot of money but you will eventually end up with a water-cooled gen set. For the operations, you are planning and people trying to sleep, that air-cooled set is not going to be a favorite of your crew. Will there be a monitor for the fan operation? If not what will a failure bring? Good luck on your journey. We have all enjoyed it.
Definitely water cooled and bigger is on the cards but this will get us by for a while
Creepy watching you drive on the wrong side of the road……
Turn the tv upside down
Perhaps I missed a fuel filter prior to the new electric fuel pump.
Two massive racor filters that feed from the other side of the engine room
Hi Brupeg. Are you fitting a fire suppression system in the engine room. Not heard of any mention of this yet. Dave UK.
Hi Dave. Yes we will be fitting a CO2 flood system into that room. Just haven’t built it yet. But it won’t be far off based on Jess’s build schedule
@@ProjectBrupeg that's good to hear. 21.54 here. Big storm spanking us . Bloody freezing. Lol.
Boaring!!
And yet ironically you watched it
Dear Jess and Damian,
Nice to see how you made a back up to the solar panels for producing electrical power. This generator needs to be very sound proof of course otherwise the engine will be annoying when you want to go to sleep while the generator in the night is running for loading the batteries in Brupeg.
Willeke and I look forward to your next vlog and wish you lots of success in finishing all the details of this expedition ship plus we send love from the Netherlands