Common issue w/ Toyotas w/ higher mileage. Lots of ways to skin a cat... I start by running car and pump up valve to see if it opens and stalls .To myself removing valve and having to clean passages is the hardest part of that fault. So I test that first. Next I put vacuum gauge on vacuum line to EGR valve and see if gauge detects vacuum under load. If no vacuum then I test VSV. Yes Toyota had a brain cramp when positioning the VSV under the intake where crud,heat is common. Obviously much easier to test and replace on a lift. Ivan you do a great job with all your videos .Thanks for the lesson on how You approach the problems. I find them very useful and it keeps me boned up on my abilities and skills .I truly appreciate your efforts. Thanks !
Yup! Same here... typical Toyota Camry & Solara 2.2L issues. But crazy reliable cars. VSV replacement after replacing EGR, Vacuum Modulator and Vacuum lines. Going to tackle the oil leak later. Mine also has 138,000 miles on her (2000 Solara) I love ❤️ this car. Even after purchasing new vehicles. After VSV replacement- no more “check engine” light!!!!
Good on her for checking it out before her trip. Now hopefully she takes care of it all before she goes. It's better and cheaper to take care of it on her time versus on the road at an unexpected moment.
Dude,I can't tell you how much thanks to you.your trans fix on the pt cruiser trans limp mode issue.hooked up relay just like you did in your video,no more limp mode.Your a steely eyed missile man.Thanks again
Thank you for posting. My husband and I do a lot of fixes to our cars. We have a 98 Camry V6. I haven’t seen any videos online that are so easy to follow and in detail. I am pretty sure our Camry has this issue. We will definitely go through your steps. Thank you again.
Thank you for the comment, Michelle! 98 Camry V6...one of the most bulletproof, reliable cars in the world. I would recommend keeping it running forever!
The VSV only serves to cut off the EGR valve at deceleration and as additional protection to prevent the engine stalling at idle, but the 4-cyl Camry engine can idle fine even if the VSV is stuck open. That means that the EGR valve is closed at idle even with a stuck VSV and prevents a stall. Here's why. The VSV is fed by the modulator port Q which brings ported vacuum (not manifold vacuum) at port P through the modulator. At idle, there is zero ported vacuum at port P and so also at port Q. That's what keeps the EGR valve closed at idle regardless of the VSV. As the engine rpm increases under load, ported vacuum builds at port P which then flows through to port R and opens the EGR valve. (details of the modulator port R and exhaust backpressure are not relevant to this discussion) On the V6 1MZ-FE, the default is for the VSV to be closed (reverse of the logic of the 4-cyl) blocking vacuum from a constant vacuum source VCV, so there's a possibility of the engine stalling if the VSV is stuck open. Fortunately, EGR VSV failures are rare on a V6. Much more common on a 4-cyl.
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics Engine warm up and idle speed are managed by the Idle Air Control valve controlled by the ECU. On the 4-cyl, there's no ported vacuum at port P since the throttle is shut, hence no EGR vacuum to open the valve regardless of the VSV being open or closed. Idle and warm up are therefore not affected by the VSV. The throttle must be partially open for the EGR valve to open. On the V6, the VCV provides a constant vacuum to the VSV regardless of throttle, so engine simply will not run if the VSV is stuck open. Would live to hear back if I've got this wrong!
@@PurpReynolds The most basic test is to use a hand held vacuum pump ($15) to apply 5 mmHg vacuum directly to the EGR valve at warm idle. The engine should run very rough or stall. Please run this test and report back. Depending upon whether or not this happens, we can go forward from there.
Did hundreds of these when I was at the dealer. Previa was another bad one. My 5 minute check: 1) Apply vacuum to EGR at idle, check for engine stall. (Good) 2) Apply vacuum, usually with my mouth, to modulator. Does it hold vacuum or is it blown apart? 3) Replace VSV if nothing else. High failure rate and they can stick intermittently.
My 2000 4 cyl Camry, fixed this code by replacing the VSV on back of engine, it's connected by vacuum hoses to the EGR and modulator the VSV sticks briefly during the emissions quick self test, works ok otherwise and will test ok.
Here's one trick you won't find in the engine manual: check your long term fuel trim when fighting any EGR problem. Why? Because it can provide proof of a vacuum leak, and trim holds positive at idle... dropping off as you rev up, and that leak just may involve the EGR system. After you are satisfied all hoses are good and snug but remain positive [say 1% to 3%] there is only one place left which is un-inspectable except using a vacuum pump to test: the modulator. If diaphragm is damaged/pinholed, the vented filter under that cap can become an unwanted air input to the throttle body, and O2 sensors pickup on a lean condition, forcing ecu to compensate with more fuel above the normal curve. When I replaced my modulator [chasing intermittant P0401 codes], LT fuel trim dropped from a little over 1% to -0,5%. Problem solved.
been a long while since I changed one, but if I recall correctly that loose = sounds of death soon, either the belt will break or just timing and probably failed tensioner/idler bearing. or someone bozo-jobbed and left it too loose after a water pump change. hard to say unless you know who owned from day one and always did the service
Thanks for your help sir. Have the same problem. Already changed the egr valve and the vacuum modulator. Figured it was about time regardless. But the problem still remained. Im getting the po401 and po402 at the same time.
My 1995 Sentra had an EGR code when I first bought it years ago. After a visual inspection, I found that the exhaust backpressure tube had burned through after all the years and miles. Without the exhaust pressure, the EGR valve would not open. If I remember right, the Nissan system has a thermistor installed in the intake manifold just after the EGR valve. When the EGR valve is expected to open, the ECM watches for the thermistor to heat up and change in value, indicating that the EGR valve did, indeed, open.
Wow, they stuck with an _old_ design! This is the same EGR system design as was on my 1986 Nissan 720. The "EGR vacuum modulator" here was called the "backpressure transducer (BPT)" on that truck, and the VSV was a wax thermostatic valve, rather than an electronic solenoid. All the Japanese truck designs of that era were the same, so who knows who created it, but it's interesting to see that they didn't change much over all those years.
I looked at the diagram, It looks like one hose is Venturi Vacuum maybe for throttle position and the hose farther away from the throttle plate is intake for Load sensing vacuum. Love the show ! We need a Avoca, NY express episode :) like the stanton Isl. express .
Excellent video . Very clear and quickly gets to the point. I had the same code on my 99 4cyl. I replaced the modulator and it went off on my ride home. Next morning light is on with system too lean. Found a cracked hose from throttle body to air cleaner and replaced it light went off on ride home. Next morning light is on with air fuel sensor slow to respond. Replace o2 sensor no change. Car has a very slight hesitation at slow speeds which I know is related. Checked possible causes for this code and one was fuel pressure so I replaced fuel pump and filter. Car has 150k miles so I figured it was tired. Still getting the 02 sensor slow to respond. Please help ,I’m stumped. Any comments will be greatly appreciated.
First repair that I did on this car about a year ago. In fact it was installed improperly and one of the spark plug tubes was cross threaded and stripped! What a mess lol
wysetech2000 - Never had an issue with valve covers. The spark plug tube and the plug on the LH side that plugs the hole for the distributor is where mine used to leak. Other than that, the seal for the oil pump is a leak area.
I say forget about the EGR and fix the belt and leaks - that's what I'd do if it were mine. 😉 Surprised Toyota had that complex of an EGR system that long ago. Lots can fail there. Remember the days when the Japanese used to design vehicles with as few ways to fail as possible? Sure do wish I could go back to that time. I think the old bosses from those days would've fired whoever mounted the VSV waaaaay under there too! I swear they're trying to be like domestics ... If we don't see you until after, you and your family have a Merry Christmas, and a Happy, Prosperous New Year, Ivan! 🍻
I have a 93 lexus es300. It's basically a V6 camry. The VSV is located on the top with easy access. I was a little rough when removing the hoses and broke it because it's made of delicate plastic. It was fine for 25 years until I broke it. I was removing it to have better access while I was replacing the valve cover gaskets.
Totally agreed, care and maintenance car owners. Don't put off maintenance and fix things that go bad as soon as possible. Even in the old days, if the horse you are riding requires a new horseshoe, don't delay or the horse will be lame. On this Camry, it looks like it will need a steam cleaning underneath first, what a nasty mess it is.
Why is it that no one has simply relocated the VSV to a new place up top where all the other Toyotas have theirs. Find a spot, drill a hole for a bracket or clip and move it, reroute the wire to the new location? Yeah Toyotas are great cars but they do have a few boneheaded engineering ideas the 3VZ-FE for instance. Modify it! The 5S-FE is a great engine with a lone idiot putting the VSV in an insane location - cut the hose - cut the wires, splice the wires, put the cut hose in new VSV location...done I don't get it? My girl has this same Camry same year. She paid a reputable shop $800.00 to find out the EGR system is stupid. So her CEL cost $800.00 to stay on. We'll see what happens once I get at it - New VSV is definitely being relocated. Her car has 89k if you can believe that. No oil leaks. Bought when it had 50k she's put on 39k. It's December 2022 still runs great, passes emissions with PO401. I have to put a timing belt on it soon, I'll do it then. Thanks for the complete diagnostics video for the PO401 on the 2000 Camry with 5S-FE engine 4 Cylinder - looks like same color even - awesome.
@20:23..that looks just like part of the heater control valve on my 92 SC400. That I took apart and replaced this piece that I took out of a Honda. Its a simple on/off vacuum control servo. My 82 B2000 even has one to control the idle air control solenoid (just a kicker to keep the throttle cracked open about 1/4 second when you take foot off gas. crude emissions function)
When I saw the title, I said "VSV!" Been there, done that. I went through the RF wheel well. Invented a few 4 letter words, wished I had 4 elbows and hands the size of a Toddler. Why did they put it there? Because Toyota.
Ivan, Great video and explanation of the EGR system. I love learning about this stuff. Let us know if you get to do any of the work you are recommending. I fear that the owner may not want to put that much $$ into an 18 year old car. God bless Paul
Just replaced new egr solenoid and modulator worked fine until keep getting p401 code had to use a Speedo wire to clean the egr tube worked but still getting that error so glad I found here!, now it buying that VSV.. These Y2K Camrys will never die they just keep on riding! Had to change my timing belt (just hit 100k) miles on OG factory belt and new water pump, new timing sensor, now some parts getting worn down that VSV is killing my mpg!! Soon replacing intake manifold for performance, all metal core radiator, fans etc Andy Serkis is that you?
The 4 cyl sets P0401 by measuring the MAP. If that's higher than what the ECM expects (when exhaust is flowing with the VSV closed), it will throw an P0401. The stall test initial diagnosis is valid here too.
I believe the EGR valve isn't opening at all. If it was stuck open, the car would not idle well or stall (as you showed when you opened the EGR valuable manually). The code is triggered as the system monitors exhaust temperature (indicating exhaust flow) to the intake side...no or insufficient flow, no increase in temperature, triggers code. Unusual that this was en electric issue...usually the vacuum hoses fail or the EGR valve fails. Car needs some basic maintenance...willing to bet that is the original timing belt on an 18 year old car.
Please watch the video again! The EGR system is "ON" all the time, but valve opening is automatically regulated by modulator, so car never stalls. Belt was "Gates" so been replaced at least once :)
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics That means the tensioner was Gates too. That's why it failed, or was close to failing. That Gates stuff is just cheap Chinese junk.
I'll say, plugged/carboned EGR ports, the other troublesome area is the vacuum hoses and steel lines/nipple... they've always been troublesome since the first EGR installed and the 22R loved to rust and plug the steel lines and nipples, often loosing vacuum to the dual-pot advance and not modulating the egr flow, causing a massive cruise and tip-in stumble/near stall out >_>
My 2001 Camry 4 cyl with 104k miles has had this code for a year now also so I pulled the EGR and cleaned the carbon buildup from EGR intake port and the code went away for 2 days and Now is back. So you Think I should start with just replacing the EGR with a new one? I bought one and can’t find where I put the sucker. Does this code cause gas mileage to suffer? Car runs like a sewing machine and I have yet cleaned the MAF sensor when ch twill do today.
Perhaps the only way for this toyota ECU to detect wether the EGR Valve is opening or closing is by measuring the pressure difference in the intake manifold by using the MAP sensor although I did not notice a MAP Sensor on the system, maybe is a Only MAF EFI system, the other way the ECU could used to detect the EGR duty cycle could be more complicated and that would be to set a code through the O2 sensor readings but I don't think Toyota is going to complicate things like that... Or maybe the ECU only monitors the solenoid windings for open or shorted circuit in order to set a code? Thanks Ivan!
Kinda backwards system when it comes to control, but in all my yrs, only replaced 1 VSV. Most times I've found the pressure modulator ( transducer similar to what Chrysler used back in the day ) sticks or has weak diaphragms. . Also have found on really high mileage cars, the TB was coked enough to where the vac signals weren't strong enough to lift the valve. I think those older Toyopets look at o2 data and maybe some MAP to see if the EGR is flowing as desired or not. As you stated, the older OBD2 cars are somewhat dumb, and they didn't think it relevant to check electrical control yet. The transducer is critical for proper function. If you experience a stumble or surging at tip in or cruise, look there. And you'll never see a code, because it happens so fast that the ECM adds a bit of fuel, still within short term limits, to compensate. Because this system is 90% vac/mechanical, there's alot of variables.
Ivan. I have a 97 that had a similar issue. It’s a bear to get that VSV out as you discovered. It is in the worst place. A notorious oil leak location is behind the coil pack mount. There is a plug there which is very difficult to see. It is where a distributor would have been located. It always drips in the location you showed and on the top of the transmission case where it pools. A big mess. Not to plug myself, but I have a few videos on my channel about this vintage Toyota engine.
Question for you? I just took my car to AutoZone and used there OBD2 scanner and the print out came up with the P0420 code and it said below threshold for catalytic converter and the print out said the Map sensor is bad. The car will run fine for 20-30 mins. Then cough and loose power and sometimes shut off. Could this be a EGR valve too? This emission stuff is crap. eBay has a used but guaranteed factory Map sensor on line. Mine looks like somebody kept it together with cable ties. And a degreased the engine with gunk because oil was everywhere from a leaking valve cover gasket and oring seals. That's fixed. I might of got water by mistake on the map sensor. It also had duct tape on it. Nice job!! By previous owner. I also bought NGK PLUGS that are platinum instead of iridium ones like denso. I replaced the fuel filter that was not fun. Any ideas that I should be doing or not be doing! Thank you David
Was hoping for some advice. I'm trying to get to the same vacuum switch valve. All I have are two scissors jacks of the type that come with the cars. I jacked up the front and rear of the car on the passenger side and removed the passenger wheel. The scissors jack's aren't tall enough so that I can get jack stands under the frame rails. Where can I put the jack stands? Do I need to remove the wheel liners? Would this job be easier with lamps under the front wheels?
These little VSV valves can be easily relocated to a location up higher on the fire wall near the intake manifold. No wire or vacuum line cutting required. Makes it easier for the next guy (and testing). Just look for an available stud bolt to hold the VSV valve. The vacuum lines and electrical connector can be pulled up through the intake manifold. Be mindful of the clip securing the wiring loom to the block.
I actually read something on that awhile back. Can't recall if it was a mod in a forum and I'd like to find the thread or mod if someone has a picture of how they did it which would be even better.
I used an extra reach 12 mm racheting wrench for the three nuts in the back and good luck reaching the 4th HIDDEN 12 mm nut underneath the EGR cooler should you decide to take out the entire EGR assembly
I HAVE A 1996 TOYOTA AVALON. WHEN ENGINE IS COLD, THERE IS VACCUM AT THE EGR VALVE, WHEN HOT, THERE IS VACUUM AT THE EGR VALVE FOR ONLY 1 SECOND. NEW EGR VACUUM SWITCH, ECM,AND MODULATOR ANY IDEA
You have to tension the timing belt correctly to make sure it doesn’t do that again. You gotta hold up the tensioner pulley and tighten the 14 mm tensioner pulley bolt to get it right. The tensioner pulley spring is NOT enough tension on that belt by itself. This will avoid a comeback for improper belt tension and it could make noise if you don’t do the procedure I explained.
Just had this issue on a 99 at the shop the other day. I feel for you having to get to that thing with out a lift! Cause it was hard enough to get to it when mine was on the lift!
So, where was the oil coming from? I'm expecting the vac hoses/egr system on my 99 Camry to start sucking air soon. The gas cap already gave me a scare, but it was just the seal. I'm just gonna buy all the OEM EGR parts over the winter and replace it all in the spring. I wanna keep this car forever!
So I shouldn’t sweat it if check engine light just went on? Any gasket replacement? Gonna trouble shoot and check clogs, what can I clean part with? Reply ASAP please.
I just replace the modulator and the valve I have not reset the battery. should the check engine light come off by itself if either of those were the issue?
Hey Great Video thank you! The sound that the timing belt was making is the same symptom my Rav4 97 has, after installing a new belt! did I miss something? Spring tensioner? what fixed it?
I just replaced my egr valve per recommendation of my mechanic. Car is still rough idling after I erase codes (was fine before I erased the codes!) Should I move to replace the modulator? I don't have a lift so after that I'd have to hand it over to a mechanic.
A great many of these videos with a p0401 end up being that vsv solenoid on the backside of the engine by the firewall. How much work do you think it would be to relocate that valve to the top of the engine?
Great work Ivan you are the man thank u for sharing.. If I may ask where did you get that vacuum gauge pump? We have them here in Memphis at that auto parts stores but they are all made of plastic not sure of the compatibility between the two but yours looks more durable I'm looking to invest in one to add to my small arsenal of tools but I need to invest smart on something that is going to last do u think that the plastic ones worth are it or should I keep looking.. Preferably the one that u used in the video.. Thanks brother God Bless
Nice video. I have the 2000 Camry CE with the 5 speed and 266k miles. The car runs great and gets 33 + MPG on the hwy at 2800 RPMS. Sadly I don't have such a fancy (expensive) tester. Mine pulled the insufficient flow code . I replaced the vacuum control module cleared the code and drove the car. The CE light has not reappeared however, the drive-ability at just off idle performance is not good. The car has a tendency to lurch until more throttle is applied. This condition was NOT present before replacing the control valve. Thought are appreciated HELP
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics thanks, however as I mentioned I don't have the snap-on tool you have so perhaps I have a defective replacement eBay part that has removed the cote but introduced new problems.
hey Ivan! i have a 1998 toyota camry 2.2l as well, it only has a 103,000 miles on it, and this code popped up as well, p0401. So went ahead and just replaced the egr vsv solenoid(with a genuine part), the egr valve and as well as the modulator. I then cleared the code, went on a road test and after 2 trips, the light came back on with the same code, p0401. any tips and ideas?
@Pete N Ended up taking both to a mechanic, $600 for both jobs. Had it been summer I would have tried to fix both issues but being brutally cold, and both cars needed emissions inspections anyway - I had him do it.
Nice video Ivan, second video on Toyota EGR system in 2 days to pop up in my feed. Just wondering if you have watched any of the WeberAuto channels videos. Very detailed videos. I was reading about the guy and it looks like he developed and owns a vibration analysis software company used by GM and Ford. Just thought it was interesting, if I remember correctly you are working the the vibration analysis field now as well.
Common issue w/ Toyotas w/ higher mileage. Lots of ways to skin a cat... I start by running car and pump up valve to see if it opens and stalls .To myself removing valve and having to clean passages is the hardest part of that fault. So I test that first. Next I put vacuum gauge on vacuum line to EGR valve and see if gauge detects vacuum under load. If no vacuum then I test VSV. Yes Toyota had a brain cramp when positioning the VSV under the intake where crud,heat is common. Obviously much easier to test and replace on a lift. Ivan you do a great job with all your videos .Thanks for the lesson on how You approach the problems. I find them very useful and it keeps me boned up on my abilities and skills .I truly appreciate your efforts. Thanks !
How to test clean passages
Yup! Same here... typical Toyota Camry & Solara 2.2L issues. But crazy reliable cars. VSV replacement after replacing EGR, Vacuum Modulator and Vacuum lines. Going to tackle the oil leak later. Mine also has 138,000 miles on her (2000 Solara) I love ❤️ this car. Even after purchasing new vehicles. After VSV replacement- no more “check engine” light!!!!
For the people who wants to know how a good diagnosis is made. Follow Ivan.
Good on her for checking it out before her trip. Now hopefully she takes care of it all before she goes. It's better and cheaper to take care of it on her time versus on the road at an unexpected moment.
Dude,I can't tell you how much thanks to you.your trans fix on the pt cruiser trans limp mode issue.hooked up relay just like you did in your video,no more limp mode.Your a steely eyed missile man.Thanks again
NICE 👌😎
Thank you for posting. My husband and I do a lot of fixes to our cars. We have a 98 Camry V6. I haven’t seen any videos online that are so easy to follow and in detail. I am pretty sure our Camry has this issue. We will definitely go through your steps. Thank you again.
Thank you for the comment, Michelle! 98 Camry V6...one of the most bulletproof, reliable cars in the world. I would recommend keeping it running forever!
HOW DOES SHE PASS THE EMISSION TESTING WITH THAT CODE APPEARING. YOU'RE AMAZING... YOU'RE SO HONEST IN YOUR DIAGNOSIS. i WISH YOU LIVED NEAR ME.
I always love watching the bonus footage!
The VSV only serves to cut off the EGR valve at deceleration and as additional protection to prevent the engine stalling at idle, but the 4-cyl Camry engine can idle fine even if the VSV is stuck open. That means that the EGR valve is closed at idle even with a stuck VSV and prevents a stall. Here's why.
The VSV is fed by the modulator port Q which brings ported vacuum (not manifold vacuum) at port P through the modulator. At idle, there is zero ported vacuum at port P and so also at port Q. That's what keeps the EGR valve closed at idle regardless of the VSV. As the engine rpm increases under load, ported vacuum builds at port P which then flows through to port R and opens the EGR valve. (details of the modulator port R and exhaust backpressure are not relevant to this discussion)
On the V6 1MZ-FE, the default is for the VSV to be closed (reverse of the logic of the 4-cyl) blocking vacuum from a constant vacuum source VCV, so there's a possibility of the engine stalling if the VSV is stuck open. Fortunately, EGR VSV failures are rare on a V6. Much more common on a 4-cyl.
Excellent explanation! Also VSV is commanded on during engine warm up to prevent EGR flow 🙂
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics Engine warm up and idle speed are managed by the Idle Air Control valve controlled by the ECU.
On the 4-cyl, there's no ported vacuum at port P since the throttle is shut, hence no EGR vacuum to open the valve regardless of the VSV being open or closed. Idle and warm up are therefore not affected by the VSV. The throttle must be partially open for the EGR valve to open.
On the V6, the VCV provides a constant vacuum to the VSV regardless of throttle, so engine simply will not run if the VSV is stuck open.
Would live to hear back if I've got this wrong!
I'm getting code P0401 on my 2000 solara v6 3.0
Been trying to get the code off
@@PurpReynolds The most basic test is to use a hand held vacuum pump ($15) to apply 5 mmHg vacuum directly to the EGR valve at warm idle. The engine should run very rough or stall. Please run this test and report back. Depending upon whether or not this happens, we can go forward from there.
@@priyajakatdar3759 ok will do
Did hundreds of these when I was at the dealer. Previa was another bad one. My 5 minute check: 1) Apply vacuum to EGR at idle, check for engine stall. (Good)
2) Apply vacuum, usually with my mouth, to modulator. Does it hold vacuum or is it blown apart?
3) Replace VSV if nothing else. High failure rate and they can stick intermittently.
My 2000 4 cyl Camry, fixed this code by replacing the VSV on back of engine, it's connected by vacuum hoses to the EGR and modulator
the VSV sticks briefly during the emissions quick self test, works ok otherwise and will test ok.
Here's one trick you won't find in the engine manual: check your long term fuel trim when fighting any EGR problem. Why? Because it can provide proof of a vacuum leak, and trim holds positive at idle... dropping off as you rev up, and that leak just may involve the EGR system. After you are satisfied all hoses are good and snug but remain positive [say 1% to 3%] there is only one place left which is un-inspectable except using a vacuum pump to test: the modulator. If diaphragm is damaged/pinholed, the vented filter under that cap can become an unwanted air input to the throttle body, and O2 sensors pickup on a lean condition, forcing ecu to compensate with more fuel above the normal curve.
When I replaced my modulator [chasing intermittant P0401 codes], LT fuel trim dropped from a little over 1% to -0,5%. Problem solved.
Diagnosed the timing belt by ear ! Very impressed,Ivan.
been a long while since I changed one, but if I recall correctly that loose = sounds of death soon, either the belt will break or just timing and probably failed tensioner/idler bearing.
or someone bozo-jobbed and left it too loose after a water pump change. hard to say unless you know who owned from day one and always did the service
Thanks for your help sir. Have the same problem. Already changed the egr valve and the vacuum modulator. Figured it was about time regardless. But the problem still remained. Im getting the po401 and po402 at the same time.
Now we want to see a timing belt and a two leak oil job... and a water pump replacement... need good cooling when going to Texas... :-)
Right now we have cool weather!
R. E. Hill yes!!
@@1984juant that wont last... 🙂
I did a timing belt, water pump and belts on my 98 in 2016. Easy job, to easy if you ask me....
you said it , Ivan get filming .
My 1995 Sentra had an EGR code when I first bought it years ago. After a visual inspection, I found that the exhaust backpressure tube had burned through after all the years and miles. Without the exhaust pressure, the EGR valve would not open. If I remember right, the Nissan system has a thermistor installed in the intake manifold just after the EGR valve. When the EGR valve is expected to open, the ECM watches for the thermistor to heat up and change in value, indicating that the EGR valve did, indeed, open.
Do it right fix all the issues Ivan you are the man happy holidays to you and your family God bless
Great video. You are clearly a very smart technician. Thank you. You definitely gained a subscribers
Thank you Mr. Pine Hollow! I have the same toyota and the same problem, I'm going to go straight to the problem.
Thank you very much!
Ivan Great video Don't forget rear main seal on these Toyota's.
Wow, they stuck with an _old_ design! This is the same EGR system design as was on my 1986 Nissan 720. The "EGR vacuum modulator" here was called the "backpressure transducer (BPT)" on that truck, and the VSV was a wax thermostatic valve, rather than an electronic solenoid. All the Japanese truck designs of that era were the same, so who knows who created it, but it's interesting to see that they didn't change much over all those years.
I looked at the diagram, It looks like one hose is Venturi Vacuum maybe for throttle position and the hose farther away from the throttle plate is intake for Load sensing vacuum. Love the show ! We need a Avoca, NY express episode :) like the stanton Isl. express .
Awesome. The flow testing was very helpful.
Excellent video . Very clear and quickly gets to the point. I had the same code on my 99 4cyl. I replaced the modulator and it went off on my ride home. Next morning light is on with system too lean. Found a cracked hose from throttle body to air cleaner and replaced it light went off on ride home. Next morning light is on with air fuel sensor slow to respond. Replace o2 sensor no change. Car has a very slight hesitation at slow speeds which I know is related. Checked possible causes for this code and one was fuel pressure so I replaced fuel pump and filter. Car has 150k miles so I figured it was tired. Still getting the 02 sensor slow to respond. Please help ,I’m stumped. Any comments will be greatly appreciated.
Before you opened it I kept saying to myself...he's going to open it 😅. Wow she needs a complete timing job on that thing,forget about the egr lol .
Well done diagnostics. Those engines were bad for valve cover gaskets leaking as well.
First repair that I did on this car about a year ago. In fact it was installed improperly and one of the spark plug tubes was cross threaded and stripped! What a mess lol
wysetech2000 - Never had an issue with valve covers. The spark plug tube and the plug on the LH side that plugs the hole for the distributor is where mine used to leak. Other than that, the seal for the oil pump is a leak area.
@@montestu5502 Well that figures. I have changed a dozen valve cover gaskets on that engine for oil leaking. The other leak points are valid also
Thank you very much for showing me where the EGR vacuum solenoid it's located and how it works
Way to go again Ivan. You're the man. Have you ever thought about being a master certified Toyota technician?
Nah that would be boring haha
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnosticsif you don't mind, where did you learn your diagnostic skills were you a dealership tech?
@@505fastlife6 A dealership is probably the worst place to learn diagnostics lol...just work on one brand for flat rate xD
I say forget about the EGR and fix the belt and leaks - that's what I'd do if it were mine. 😉
Surprised Toyota had that complex of an EGR system that long ago. Lots can fail there. Remember the days when the Japanese used to design vehicles with as few ways to fail as possible? Sure do wish I could go back to that time. I think the old bosses from those days would've fired whoever mounted the VSV waaaaay under there too! I swear they're trying to be like domestics ...
If we don't see you until after, you and your family have a Merry Christmas, and a Happy, Prosperous New Year, Ivan! 🍻
Oh I got plenty in store for you before the new year ;)
I have a 93 lexus es300. It's basically a V6 camry. The VSV is located on the top with easy access. I was a little rough when removing the hoses and broke it because it's made of delicate plastic. It was fine for 25 years until I broke it. I was removing it to have better access while I was replacing the valve cover gaskets.
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics - Ahh, sweeeet! 😎
fix it all, timing belt/tensuoner/idlers first unless they really like to walking ;)
She might as well get it all done before she goes. She won't find anyone to do it for less than Ivan.
Totally agreed, care and maintenance car owners. Don't put off maintenance and fix things that go bad as soon as possible. Even in the old days, if the horse you are riding requires a new horseshoe, don't delay or the horse will be lame. On this Camry, it looks like it will need a steam cleaning underneath first, what a nasty mess it is.
Why is it that no one has simply relocated the VSV to a new place up top where all the other Toyotas have theirs. Find a spot, drill a hole for a bracket or clip and move it, reroute the wire to the new location? Yeah Toyotas are great cars but they do have a few boneheaded engineering ideas the 3VZ-FE for instance. Modify it! The 5S-FE is a great engine with a lone idiot putting the VSV in an insane location - cut the hose - cut the wires, splice the wires, put the cut hose in new VSV location...done I don't get it? My girl has this same Camry same year. She paid a reputable shop $800.00 to find out the EGR system is stupid. So her CEL cost $800.00 to stay on.
We'll see what happens once I get at it - New VSV is definitely being relocated. Her car has 89k if you can believe that. No oil leaks. Bought when it had 50k she's put on 39k. It's December 2022 still runs great, passes emissions with PO401. I have to put a timing belt on it soon, I'll do it then.
Thanks for the complete diagnostics video for the PO401 on the 2000 Camry with 5S-FE engine 4 Cylinder - looks like same color even - awesome.
Ivan - you have to rewind the solenoid coil....Great video
@20:23..that looks just like part of the heater control valve on my 92 SC400. That I took apart and replaced this piece that I took out of a Honda. Its a simple on/off vacuum control servo. My 82 B2000 even has one to control the idle air control solenoid (just a kicker to keep the throttle cracked open about 1/4 second when you take foot off gas. crude emissions function)
When I saw the title, I said "VSV!" Been there, done that. I went through the RF wheel well. Invented a few 4 letter words, wished I had 4 elbows and hands the size of a Toddler. Why did they put it there? Because Toyota.
Above 100000 miles for failure, I don't think it's a difficult job. Yes I've done it and do all the time.
I read somewhere that the Japanese did this to get back at us for winning the war. Lol.
I just changed mine on a 1999 Toyota solara and that thing was a bitch to change 😂
Ivan,
Great video and explanation of the EGR system. I love learning about this stuff. Let us know if you get to do any of the work you are recommending. I fear that the owner may not want to put that much $$ into an 18 year old car.
God bless
Paul
She agreed to all the repairs....I agreed to take several payments :)
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics
Great - make sure you video all the repairs so we can watch/learn!
Thanks again
God bless
Paul
Hi my friend you did the best you could do to find the egr problem switch
I love the way you do stuff I used to do the stuff same way back in the day thank you and happy holidays
Just replaced new egr solenoid and modulator worked fine until keep getting p401 code had to use a Speedo wire to clean the egr tube worked but still getting that error so glad I found here!, now it buying that VSV..
These Y2K Camrys will never die they just keep on riding! Had to change my timing belt (just hit 100k) miles on OG factory belt and new water pump, new timing sensor, now some parts getting worn down that VSV is killing my mpg!! Soon replacing intake manifold for performance, all metal core radiator, fans etc
Andy Serkis is that you?
The 4 cyl sets P0401 by measuring the MAP. If that's higher than what the ECM expects (when exhaust is flowing with the VSV closed), it will throw an P0401. The stall test initial diagnosis is valid here too.
I had the same code just got a EGR valve on Amazon and it work perfectly 😃
Nicky done Ivan! You just couldn't help yourself 🤣
Welcome to Texas!
Thanks a lot. This was a great video to pin point the solenoid test! A+
You are brilliant! Thanks!
I believe the EGR valve isn't opening at all. If it was stuck open, the car would not idle well or stall (as you showed when you opened the EGR valuable manually). The code is triggered as the system monitors exhaust temperature (indicating exhaust flow) to the intake side...no or insufficient flow, no increase in temperature, triggers code. Unusual that this was en electric issue...usually the vacuum hoses fail or the EGR valve fails. Car needs some basic maintenance...willing to bet that is the original timing belt on an 18 year old car.
Please watch the video again! The EGR system is "ON" all the time, but valve opening is automatically regulated by modulator, so car never stalls. Belt was "Gates" so been replaced at least once :)
Sure hope the water pump isn’t Gates!
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics That means the tensioner was Gates too. That's why it failed, or was close to failing. That Gates stuff is just cheap Chinese junk.
I'll say, plugged/carboned EGR ports, the other troublesome area is the vacuum hoses and steel lines/nipple...
they've always been troublesome since the first EGR installed and the 22R loved to rust and plug the steel lines and nipples, often loosing vacuum to the dual-pot advance and not modulating the egr flow, causing a massive cruise and tip-in stumble/near stall out >_>
My 2001 Camry 4 cyl with 104k miles has had this code for a year now also so I pulled the EGR and cleaned the carbon buildup from EGR intake port and the code went away for 2 days and Now is back. So you Think I should start with just replacing the EGR with a new one? I bought one and can’t find where I put the sucker. Does this code cause gas mileage to suffer? Car runs like a sewing machine and I have yet cleaned the MAF sensor when ch twill do today.
@Ivan great channel. Great diagnosis. Fan of your channel. 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Thank you!
Another great video 👍
Perhaps the only way for this toyota ECU to detect wether the EGR Valve is opening or closing is by measuring the pressure difference in the intake manifold by using the MAP sensor although I did not notice a MAP Sensor on the system, maybe is a Only MAF EFI system, the other way the ECU could used to detect the EGR duty cycle could be more complicated and that would be to set a code through the O2 sensor readings but I don't think Toyota is going to complicate things like that... Or maybe the ECU only monitors the solenoid windings for open or shorted circuit in order to set a code? Thanks Ivan!
likely all the above and the change in O2's also. the again it is old school vacuum modulator controlled.
@throttle bottle Thanks I guess you're right!
Yup has a MAP sensor and also watches fuel trims according to code description :)
@Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics Excelent! Thank you Ivan!
good job /good video
Merry Christmas to you and your family Ivan !
Kinda backwards system when it comes to control, but in all my yrs, only replaced 1 VSV. Most times I've found the pressure modulator ( transducer similar to what Chrysler used back in the day ) sticks or has weak diaphragms. . Also have found on really high mileage cars, the TB was coked enough to where the vac signals weren't strong enough to lift the valve. I think those older Toyopets look at o2 data and maybe some MAP to see if the EGR is flowing as desired or not. As you stated, the older OBD2 cars are somewhat dumb, and they didn't think it relevant to check electrical control yet. The transducer is critical for proper function. If you experience a stumble or surging at tip in or cruise, look there. And you'll never see a code, because it happens so fast that the ECM adds a bit of fuel, still within short term limits, to compensate. Because this system is 90% vac/mechanical, there's alot of variables.
Had the same code recently. A couple of blows with the BFH on the EGR base and flow was restored.
Permanent fix? xD
Ivan. I have a 97 that had a similar issue. It’s a bear to get that VSV out as you discovered. It is in the worst place. A notorious oil leak location is behind the coil pack mount. There is a plug there which is very difficult to see. It is where a distributor would have been located. It always drips in the location you showed and on the top of the transmission case where it pools. A big mess. Not to plug myself, but I have a few videos on my channel about this vintage Toyota engine.
Yup that dang rubber cam plug!! It's getting a new one next week :)
What a cry baby.
Question for you? I just took my car to AutoZone and used there OBD2 scanner and the print out came up with the P0420 code and it said below threshold for catalytic converter and the print out said the Map sensor is bad. The car will run fine for 20-30 mins. Then cough and loose power and sometimes shut off. Could this be a EGR valve too? This emission stuff is crap. eBay has a used but guaranteed factory Map sensor on line. Mine looks like somebody kept it together with cable ties. And a degreased the engine with gunk because oil was everywhere from a leaking valve cover gasket and oring seals. That's fixed. I might of got water by mistake on the map sensor. It also had duct tape on it. Nice job!! By previous owner. I also bought NGK PLUGS that are platinum instead of iridium ones like denso. I replaced the fuel filter that was not fun. Any ideas that I should be doing or not be doing! Thank you David
Was hoping for some advice. I'm trying to get to the same vacuum switch valve. All I have are two scissors jacks of the type that come with the cars. I jacked up the front and rear of the car on the passenger side and removed the passenger wheel. The scissors jack's aren't tall enough so that I can get jack stands under the frame rails. Where can I put the jack stands? Do I need to remove the wheel liners? Would this job be easier with lamps under the front wheels?
Classic vid I got the same car with the same code n no symptoms long term fuel trim set at 24% at idle only!!!
These little VSV valves can be easily relocated to a location up higher on the fire wall near the intake manifold. No wire or vacuum line cutting required. Makes it easier for the next guy (and testing). Just look for an available stud bolt to hold the VSV valve.
The vacuum lines and electrical connector can be pulled up through the intake manifold. Be mindful of the clip securing the wiring loom to the block.
Great tip!
Especially on RAV4. They are in a terrible spot by the steering rack.
I actually read something on that awhile back. Can't recall if it was a mod in a forum and I'd like to find the thread or mod if someone has a picture of how they did it which would be even better.
I used an extra reach 12 mm racheting wrench for the three nuts in the back and good luck reaching the 4th HIDDEN 12 mm nut underneath the EGR cooler should you decide to take out the entire EGR assembly
Ivan, great video and info!!!!!!!
Thank you I appreciate your help
I HAVE A 1996 TOYOTA AVALON. WHEN ENGINE IS COLD, THERE IS VACCUM AT THE EGR VALVE, WHEN HOT, THERE IS VACUUM AT THE EGR VALVE FOR ONLY 1 SECOND. NEW EGR VACUUM SWITCH, ECM,AND MODULATOR
ANY IDEA
Put down the parts cannon and perform the proper diagnosis as shown in this video ;)
just so you know the check engine light works, it's been on for a year! think about it?
You have to tension the timing belt correctly to make sure it doesn’t do that again. You gotta hold up the tensioner pulley and tighten the 14 mm tensioner pulley bolt to get it right. The tensioner pulley spring is NOT enough tension on that belt by itself. This will avoid a comeback for improper belt tension and it could make noise if you don’t do the procedure I explained.
Yup good old tighten by feel :)
Just had this issue on a 99 at the shop the other day. I feel for you having to get to that thing with out a lift! Cause it was hard enough to get to it when mine was on the lift!
So, where was the oil coming from? I'm expecting the vac hoses/egr system on my 99 Camry to start sucking air soon. The gas cap already gave me a scare, but it was just the seal. I'm just gonna buy all the OEM EGR parts over the winter and replace it all in the spring. I wanna keep this car forever!
Your video are always well done Thank You Bill N
Thanks Bill!
Great Ivan. Merry chrismas and happy new year :)
Merry Christmas and a Happy and Healthy (healthier) 2019!
Merry Christmas Ivan
So I shouldn’t sweat it if check engine light just went on? Any gasket replacement? Gonna trouble shoot and check clogs, what can I clean part with? Reply ASAP please.
Dude awesome mine had the same problem.
Great video thanks bud
Great diagnostic
awesome, hope to see the repairs, and what caused all that, a pcv valve, or what
Just age and heat...
great as always , and a Merry Christmas to you and your family .
Great channel.
Thank you for a great video!!!!
Needs some work. Maybe make to TX. But with that much slop. Nope. Belt will break or come off! Lol....cust better get it done before TX trip
it's ready to let go or tensioner/idler bearings are gone. it's making it's "near death" noises!
Great call...I would say it leaks a little.....LOL
I just replace the modulator and the valve I have not reset the battery.
should the check engine light come off by itself if either of those were the issue?
Hey Great Video thank you! The sound that the timing belt was making is the same symptom my Rav4 97 has, after installing a new belt! did I miss something? Spring tensioner? what fixed it?
I just replaced my egr valve per recommendation of my mechanic. Car is still rough idling after I erase codes (was fine before I erased the codes!) Should I move to replace the modulator? I don't have a lift so after that I'd have to hand it over to a mechanic.
Well, i replaced my egr valve, modulator and vsv switch but i still get the p0401 code ? Any clue on it ?
Superb bro
A great many of these videos with a p0401 end up being that vsv solenoid on the backside of the engine by the firewall. How much work do you think it would be to relocate that valve to the top of the engine?
You have to keep reminding yourself when you are working with a "negative" logic system !
Good job
Awesome job!
great job
Those 2.2 4cylinder engines were good motors back in the day.
Still a great motor! Legendary Toyota Quality!
Nice I like excellent new I new how try too fix my hold Toyota Camry tank you
Hi there. When you have a good VSV and you test it with the multimeter what should be the ohms reading. ( numbers) Thanks. PS Great video 👍🏻
Great work Ivan you are the man thank u for sharing.. If I may ask where did you get that vacuum gauge pump? We have them here in Memphis at that auto parts stores but they are all made of plastic not sure of the compatibility between the two but yours looks more durable I'm looking to invest in one to add to my small arsenal of tools but I need to invest smart on something that is going to last do u think that the plastic ones worth are it or should I keep looking.. Preferably the one that u used in the video.. Thanks brother God Bless
Great video..
Nice video. I have the 2000 Camry CE with the 5 speed and 266k miles. The car runs great and gets 33 + MPG on the hwy at 2800 RPMS. Sadly I don't have such a fancy (expensive) tester. Mine pulled the insufficient flow code . I replaced the vacuum control module cleared the code and drove the car. The CE light has not reappeared however, the drive-ability at just off idle performance is not good. The car has a tendency to lurch until more throttle is applied. This condition was NOT present before replacing the control valve. Thought are appreciated HELP
@@blewis7359 reinstall the original valve and then follow the diagnostic steps in this video 😉👍
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics thanks, however as I mentioned I don't have the snap-on tool you have so perhaps I have a defective replacement eBay part that has removed the cote but introduced new problems.
Good video ...
hey Ivan! i have a 1998 toyota camry 2.2l as well, it only has a 103,000 miles on it, and this code popped up as well, p0401. So went ahead and just replaced the egr vsv solenoid(with a genuine part), the egr valve and as well as the modulator. I then cleared the code, went on a road test and after 2 trips, the light came back on with the same code, p0401. any tips and ideas?
Hi there, I want to know if my Toyota Camry 2011 2.5L a Dynamic Force Engine ?
Great video, how much did all this cost her? I have 2 90's Toyota's with the same engine code.
@Pete N Ended up taking both to a mechanic, $600 for both jobs. Had it been summer I would have tried to fix both issues but being brutally cold, and both cars needed emissions inspections anyway - I had him do it.
Nice video Ivan, second video on Toyota EGR system in 2 days to pop up in my feed. Just wondering if you have watched any of the WeberAuto channels videos. Very detailed videos. I was reading about the guy and it looks like he developed and owns a vibration analysis software company used by GM and Ford. Just thought it was interesting, if I remember correctly you are working the the vibration analysis field now as well.
John is an amazing teacher and a fountain of knowledge .
He did a nice job on the CVT videos :)