Removed Vacuum Lines from Stock Carburetor | Mazda B2000 B2200
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- Опубліковано 30 чер 2024
- In this video I help Josh with his 1987 Mazda B2000. In a previous video, we installed a header and in this follow up video we remove all the vacuum line emission setup and make the stock carburetor work until he can replace it with a Weber 32/36.
0:00 Intro
0:24 The Plan
0:44 Vacuum Line Delete
10:00 Vacuum Cap Install
15:49 Air Filter Install
21:00 Finishing Up
Music by Karl Casey @ White Bat Audio
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#MazdaB2200 #carburetor #minitruck #jeep #mazdab2000 - Авто та транспорт
Great video! Putting the motor back in my 89 this coming weekend and wanted to delete all emissions stuff and this gave me a great detailed how to, thanks!
I have an 87 UF ute with the FE motor and I think this has already been done but I have issues with sometimes runs like shit and stalls .. I will use this video to double check if this has been done as I have no egr system on mine .. very informative video
Awesome dang ole job super help man..both of y'alls... past midnight now where I live, discovered video, gloved up & under the hood now. Thanks a bunch guys. Y'all gained a loyal fan and follower...👍
Thanks!
Ok Mitch I have followed your video and removed all vacuum lines and other mess off the engine. Looks great! K675 Weber kit being delivered today. I just removed my old carb and see there is a very nice 1/4 aluminum spacers below carb. I watched your video about a spacer helping with cooling, HP and drivability. This piece had a sensor of some type plugged into the side but has been cut off. Question? This piece looks great and problems with using it for that spacer??
That was the heater plate for the original carb. What I used in another video was bakelite riser plate. Some call it phenolite maybe? Using one that matches the base of the Weber is what you want. I think I got mine from Peirce manifolds but it's been too long to remember.
Hi, mitch love watching your video. I have Mazda b1600 which has a stock carburetor similar to the one above. Not sure which screw is for fuel/air mixture adjustment.can you show me please?
If it’s the stock carb they have a black off so you can’t adjust fuel and air. It’s dumb I know,but it kinda has just motivated me to get a Weber for mine. I’m currently doing what’s in the video but I’ll be able to get a Weber in a month or so
I'm back Mitch...thanks for your help, I do appreciate it. I checked all the vacuum connections and none missed or leaking. How ever I did find something odd to me. (I'm 73 and still learning) I put a timing light on it and my timing mark did not move ?? Not right? I have the vacuum line attached to the same port on your video. With engine off I unplugged the line from carb and sucked on it hard...but the plate in the distributor would not move but held the suction. I took a screwdriver and moved the plate. At that moment I lost all suction and was just sucking air??? Your thoughts and help!
I really appreciate your time and help.
Okay so you may have discovered a distributor problem but that's unrelated to your idling issue because the only time the engine pulls a vacuum or I should say advances the timing through the distributor is at higher RPMs when it's pulling a vacuum from the base of the carburetor. All in all though however getting rid of the emissions stuff with the Nikki carburetor is only a temporary thing until you get a Weber carburetor. The factory carb is two overcomplicated for itself and will run rich even with all the stuff missing. Your initial problem though seems to be all you need to do is idle it up so that it will run on its own at idle. Idling it up is easy it's the long screw on the back of the car that will take a Phillips head screwdriver. More on that can be found at the website there's a whole service manual there with a section devoted entirely to the stock carburetor and there's other files on my website devoted to just that factory carburetor. mazdaminitruckin.com
I have two issues with mine: auto choke takes a looong time to cut off, and the engine will buck a lot some days, fine other days. Oh, and my air cleaner is missing a nut inside. Wonder if that's in the carb? Only 80k miles but the car stood for 7 years with a broken window. Lots of body rot. Pity.
Ok, I misunderstood the purpose of removing all the vacuum lines and mess was just temporary until I got another carb. I was planning on keeping and running the stock carb. That not being a option now, I can do the fast idle to get by. This is a '87 B2000 SE-5 with 178k miles. I don't plan on any major overhaul or restoration just a good dependable truck for local use. So the Weber 36/32 appears to be your carb of choice. Best place to buy? What model is needed for my stock truck? I'm already watching your Weber videos!! 😁😉
Watch the video about me installing a Weber carb in the link to buy one is in the video description. Yes I mentioned it in the video that this is really only a temporary setup until Josh got himself a Weber carburetor. It's only temporary because the car will unfortunately run rich not terribly rich but it will run rich.
Did the air cleaner come with the adapter pieces or were they bought separately? Great video, by the way. It made me doing this, to my '92, so easy. Thanks!
It was a complete kit from advance auto store
@@MazdaMitch Cool. I'll definitely check it out. Thanks, man!
Hey I was able to get mine done after watching your video. Curious if you can help adjust this carb until I get my weber.
There is a anti tamper pin on the side of the carb, you'll have to get that pin out to adjust the mixture. You can learn all about it at my website mazdaminitruckin.com there is a service manual and lots of files.
@@MazdaMitch Dude!!!!!! Just came across this channel and was randomly reading through comments and so glad I was, the link to your website is exactly what I needed! Thank you so much for putting all the effort into making sure a heap of documentation is easily available to other b2000/2200 owners. Very very much appreciated man!
i just bought a 1984 b2000. exhaust is on the left side as you face engine. bought me a weber. where i can find a headers for this truck?. do i need to take all wire as this video? thanks!!!
If you have not noticed, I make videos for only 86-93 trucks. Thats all I own and work on.
I've followed your video and have removed all vacuum lines. Keeping the original carb. Truck has been running great like it was. So I fired her up! Cranks but is running pretty rough and will not idle? I'm assuming I must adjust the jets on carb to smooth out this. Is there a trick to getting that pin out of carb to access the jets??
Great video...
Wiggle and tap upwards we're using a needle nose on the pen that's how I've gotten them out before.
Thanks Mitch, could not get grip with needle noise but came up with another easy way to share. Hacksaw the top 1/4" Alu off
Carb, left 1/4 " pin sticking up. Used cutter pliers to pull it right up and out!! 👍
I did that last year- didnt know what I was doing- Weber 32/36 due within 3days…. Truck still ran ok- seemed like the 1980’s were to much of simpler time to have such an over exaggerated way of emissions choking an engine 🥴
I know right??
how about these Amazon weber knockoffs? Is a 32/36 knockoff ok for the b2000?
Look over my channel. I made a video Real Vs Fake on the weber.
Now that I have removed all vacuum lines and etc per your video I need some help getting the original carb to run as good as it did before this project. Truck will not idle smoothly. I have removed the pin to access the jet screws. I can see a screw head in the lower hole but don't see or feel anything in the upper hole? So do you have some help information on how to turn this carb? Engine cuts off every time I come to a stop unless I keep it idling really high! HELP!! 😁
There is nothing in the upper hole, its just a mixture screw. You need to know your RPM and adjust the idle, thats about it. I have follow up video and it works fine. Done it to three trucks before swapping to a weber. Check behind yourself. Make sure there is not a vacuum leak, that you are missing.
Does the O2 sensor still do it's job? Or is it now removed from the system??
Worthless just like the ecu
What do you do with the hoses that run from in front the factory breather to the exhaust manifold side?
Well in the video all was removed and we put a header on it. We did the header first I think. If you don't have a header, you can remove all the front emissions hoses and it will go into two metal lines in front of the first catalytic converter. Take it all apart, and you can cut and pinch the metal lines or make a plate at the bottom near the cat
Look at this. I discuss that. ua-cam.com/video/sazb_p9OH-s/v-deo.html
sir can i have a tutorial on how to adjust the screws on this stock carb please? i will greatly appreciate it sir.
Sorry but I dont mess with the stock carb anymore. There is the idle you can mess with, and there is the one single air and fuel mixture screw you can mess with, but you have to remove the tamper proof pin first. You can use this and look up everything you want to know about it. www.mazdaminitruckin.com/service-manual and www.mazdaminitruckin.com/info/engine-info#h.df2izpjb7arw
Is this the same process for an automatic b2200 ?
Yes BUT leave the fat vacuum line on the intake that goes to the transmission
How do you smog it after removing all that?
It doesn't. We don't have to worry about that.
What size adapter did you use on the air filter cause mine didnt have an adapter and it 2 inches too big
The air filter was a universal one from advance auto and came with multiple pieces inside and one fit.
@@MazdaMitch well do you know what size the carb neck is cause mine looks to be right about 3” but i cant find an adapter to fit even though it should have came with one
Did removing all of that affect the fuel mileage ??
We feel like it did. Its running rich, with no way to tune it out. No worries, getting a weber soon.
I'm super new but forgive my question.. I've never done tap and die stuff, so instead of fucking with the threads on the center of the carb, couldn't I just purchase a threaded rod that fits the stock threads instead?
Sure you can. We just have access to tools and did that to match the supplied rod that came with the air filter
What dangers are there from doing this? What can I basically mess up?
I really don't think you can mess up anything I can't remember anything. I know some of it's fast forwarded but if you follow along the video just get rid of all the emissions lines and stuff cap everything off you'll be good to go.
What did you do with the vent hose from the gas tank?
Its 5/16th fuel line. Can be found and purchased at most any local parts supply store.
@@MazdaMitch the one in front of the firewall that is strung out of the way early in the video 1 is fuel supply 1is fuel return 1 is vent. did you cap it off, leave it disconnected, or connect it to a vacuum port
What did you do with the vent line to the fuel tank? Did you cap it, hook it to something else? You just said we will put it up here for now. With no follow up information. What do we do with this line once it is disconected? Thanks man, awsome job.
@@wordoftruthassembly6556 Dont cap the vent. Just run the hose somewhere and tuck it somewhere, simple. I have mine tucked on the firewall. He does too.
What wiring did you cut?
That's covered in detail here ua-cam.com/video/sazb_p9OH-s/v-deo.html
Thank you sir.
Does it matter if its a mechanical fuel pump or electric fuel pump truck?
Should not matter, but I'd run a mechanical simply because they are more reliable and easier to replace if need to
@@MazdaMitch Sweet, Can I do this delete to a 91 automatic with AC?
@@chrisbishop3899 I can't see why not.
Can this be done on a truck with a stock exhaust manifold
You can yes. You will want to remove the breather and the 3 hose setup, along with the two that go down next to the first cat. Cut those two and pinch them. There is four small exhaust pipes on top of the main exhaust manifold, you can cap that with some Chevy lug nuts. I've done it.
It can, you just have to delete metal lines coming from the manifold. You can cut the 2 that come up from the collector then crimp them closed. The 4 on top of the manifold you can do the same or take them off and cap them.
@@MazdaMitch what year/model chevy lug nuts?
@@maxxpriceee I went to AutoZone at the time and just bought a set from the shelf, don't remember, I think it's any year
We're did you order the air filter
I believe we picked it up off the shelf at advance auto parts.
@@MazdaMitch ok thank you keep the good videos going 💪and there was no issue wen removing the hoses after ? because I'm thinking on doing it
@@acruz1164 No issues.
@@MazdaMitch ok thanks I'm making the aluminum plate for the egr do I need the two vacuum tubes from there or I can cut them of and blocked them to run it like that
@@acruz1164 you can cut them
Hope you don't live in California where you have to smog it every 2 years.
Absolutely not I live in Mississippi I would not dare live in California.
Man , I have a 1993 auto b2200 . The stock carb is kicking my ass . It shakes upon idle due to the chock never opening. And I know there has to be a vacuum leak because when you punch it , it wants to die . Beyond frustrating. If anyone has any help , I’m all ears !
If you can, replace it with a Weber and get rid of the stock carb and emissions crap, there is like 20'something point of failure
@@MazdaMitch Thanks Mitch ! Been watching your vids for awhile now , I will order carb tomorrow!