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I bought a $8 brass sledge from Harbor Freight that I use to knock rotors off by hitting them from the back side. The brass is so soft, it doesn't damage the rotors. This makes rotors so easy to take off!
I got an air hammer at HF to buzz on the hat for 15-20 bucks if my memory serves me right. Usually five 1 second buzzes does the job too. I like guns! I like your idea too but pulling a trigger is more fun!😂
Currently 14 minutes and counting and this video made me decide to just try and adjust the star bolt for my parking brake that isn’t working and If that doesn’t fix it I’ll watch your video again when I change my brakes in a year and screw with it then. Awesome content straight and to the point. thanks!
Glad it’s able to help you out. The job is really terrible. I’d avoid doing it if you can. Seriously, it will make you think bad thoughts about the engineers that designed it.
Well done. Good lighting. No never ending sanctimonious talk. Yes, that parking brake repair is a pain. Now I know and I will have a pro do mine. And I’ll make sure he puts some anti-cease on the hub before putting the new disk back. Easier to take off next time.
Your video really helped, thanks. The unusual amount of rust on my rotors extended my brake job from a couple of hours to two days. As with yours the parking brake shoes detached from the backing as soon as I removed the rotor.
Yeah overall, it’s not a super fun job to do. I would not want to do it again. Getting the parking brake to work well once the job is complete was a frustrating task as well. At least it’s over now! Thanks for watching the video!
I adjusted the shoes were I thought they should be. Unfortunately it’s not were they need to be to be effective. I was so happy to get the job done I didn’t want to climb under the truck for another week. I’ll get to it next week. Thanks again
Very useful video. For me getting the two springs in place took a long time on side one, but went pretty well on the other after some experience. The video is missing some detail there. I found that after the springs are started in the first shoe, putting a screw driver in the hole to hold them in place made it easier to stretch the spring into the other side. I also used a magnetic pen and trim remover tool on the hold down clips. I put one clip in place before finishing the two springs and that seemed easier. Another note, in my experience, don't use copper antiseize on brakes because it can cause the ABS sensor to have incorrect reads if the antisieze gets on the tone ring.
I just replaced the pads on my 14 and it was not as intuitive of a job as I figured it would be. Ended up needing to watch a video to figure it out and of course, gave myself a pretty good gash thanks to the stupid clips on my finger.
If you have access to a rivet gun and things are hard to get off you might call it plan d or so . I don’t have a rivet gun until I go to work and use one of theirs. Also recommend taking pictures as you go so putting it all back together is 14% easier, Great video btw. Bill
Thanks for the video. Was considering doing my Ram. I don’t think I will have patience for those parking brake shoes. I may have to put in shop when it really needs it
A great video. Well lit, multiple views, and you showed some of your struggles. I would have liked to see you adjust the star wheel at some point. From your vid, I know for certain I won’t attempt to work on my parking brakes. Too much of a pita. But, there’s definitely value in knowing when Not to attempt something yourself. For that, I thank you!
I’m glad the video helped you out, even if it was showing that doing parking brake shoes is an atrocious job. :) I wish I had that knowledge before I had taken it apart, as I would have planned my day much better! Thanks for watching the video - I appreciate it!
I'm happy to help because it's not an easy job. Maybe buy a 12 pack of your favorite beverage in advance, and hope it takes less than a full day. I'm cheering for you!
You need a heavy hammer to hit the rotor on top of the rotor drum or between the lugs bolts if that doesn't work use the proper puller if available. If the rotor is not being reused hit it from the inside.
If it helps people sleep better, sure they should do that. In my reality, the brake pads are exposed to rain, mud, salt, asphalt, rust, rubber, heat, and a whole world full of contamination every single day. If fingerprints on a rear brake pad made a difference on a 15 Ram, I probably would have protected them. But for my personal vehicles, it simply doesn’t matter.
I contaminated the hell out of mine so thank god for brake clean. Those damn shoes were jumping all over the place to get ‘em lined up. Just clean the shit off em when you’re done.
I could not get the rears off on my 2002 ram truck. So I brought it to a local garage and gave them the parts I bought and paid for the labor to have them installed I beat on those rotors quite a bit but I think I just loosened it for the mechanic They had the job done in a 1/2 hour when it took me longer to get the rotor off with a no go for me I still came out cheaper since I bought all the parts myself both front and rear rotors and pads right around $300 total I got the fronts done on my own and they came off and went on easy Otherwise a shop would have charged me over $1000 for the whole job, a mopar garage wanted a lot more just in the parts alone without the labor . With labor from the mopar garage I would be certain it would be over $2000 for the entire job I saved a lot of money having the brakes done the way I did it. By the way I think the books call for removing the axels for the rear brake job with the E brake shoes. And if you are wondering all four corners of the brakes wore evenly all the way around which is a good thing to have and I was using the brakes properly and not stabbing the brakes all the time waring them like some people probably do.
Lol. After doing them once, I would say I’ve learned my lesson, and therefore will not be doing them again! The regular brakes are easy. The parking brakes are not fun at all!
At the 2:50 mark, you point out that the emergency brake adjustment is on the Bottom on the passenger side and the Top on the driver's side. However, the video doesn't mention the fact that the direction you turn the star wheel is opposite, depending on which side you are on. On the passenger side, you put the screwdriver in pointing down and turn the wheel up as shown at 3:15. But on the driver's side, you want to do the opposite. Put the screwdriver in angling up and turn the wheel down
Jeff, I must’ve tried 8 times back and forth, already knowing what you said to be true. Just lost track in my minds eye. Got it done but geez it should’ve been easier. That drivers side is a bitch with the tire back on but that’s how I was taught, tire on until you feel it drag. I definitely was missing the late 90’s F350’s at that point with both adjusters on the bottom!
@@mattsrant2872 I already had a rotor to replace the old one, so I wasn't worried about damaging it. I was beating on that thing with a sledgehammer so much that my emergency brake shoes were coming out with the rotor. Felt like an idiot after I figured out the issue.
Nice video. Now I feel guilty for not checking or replacing the parking brakes. You can also put anti seize on wheel bearing hub face and the rotors will come off way easier in the future and you will thank yourself.
I just did my rear pads on my 2017 ram and they where just like the ones u did one the passenger rear also it must be a factory thing as this is the 1st set on my truck with 60k miles
Now that you’ve done it your way would you recommend doing it this way versus removing the axles to make it easier to work on the hardware and then have the added bonus of replacing the diff oil at around 100k km/ 60k miles ???? Since the diff cover would be removed in order to pop the click and pull the axles out. Every local mechanic wants to pull the axles out.
That's a tough question! My method was terrible, and took a really long time. Having the axles out would have helped a LOT. If you are somebody with less patience or giant hands - pull the axles! If you have tons of patience and small hands - leave the axles in!
I followed every advice in the video and it's not breaking loose. Fully loosened the brake shoe star thing. Undid that factory washer doohicky. Smacked it VERY hard with small sledgehammer all over - breaking the metal rotor... And I tried leverage with a long crowbar. No dice. You sure there isn't a hidden bolt holding the rotor to the plate? I couldn't find one.
It truly is a miserable job. If the brake shoes have worn into the inside of the rotor, there is a rusty edge that they get hooked on which prevents the rotor from coming off. They do make brake drum pullers that you might be able to rent at a local auto part store. The other option is to keep cutting and cut the drum off with a cut off wheel. Lastly, if you haven’t bought parking brake shoes you probably should now. Sorry you are suffering through it, I did as well.
@@WiringRescue Hopefully Partsource is open on Canada Day and has these brake shoes in stock. I got the brake rotors and pads from rockauto. Would suck to have to put it all back together in order to go dirt biking today. I appreciate your kind words and advice.
The penetrating oil I put between the rotor and axel and in the lug bolt holes didn't help. I can turn the rotor a small bit before it engages the drive so I don't think the shoes are engaged. I think it's just seized to the axel. I'll see if anything is open that can rent me a brake puller.
The only tool I can find to rent or buy is called a hub puller with a sliding hammer. Canadian Tire says it will take the rotor off with the hub. Is that ok? If it achieves that, I think it will have defeated the fact it is seized to the axel. I just don't know what I need to expect for putting the hub back on. And hopefully the rotor isn't seized to the hub.
I don’t think that style hub puller is going to work for you. Your rear drum is stuck to a solid rear axle, not a hub. Does the drum pry off even a little bit, or is it 100% solidly attached to the end of the axle?
Hello, I just replaced all my calipers,rotors, brakes. The loosening of the parking break was a great idea for getting the rotor off, although I attempted to retighten it after I was done. I’m hearing a scrapping noise when I drive now, could it be because I over tightened the parking break?
If it’s getting hot then you over tightened it. If it’s making a scraping noise, most of the time it is a backing plate rubbing on a rotor/drum. Jack up the truck and spin each whee by hand, you should be able to easily spot the problem if it’s a backing plate. Just nudge it back into its happy place and drive on! Let me know what you find!
I made up both shoes with the springs and spread them out to get in the notch. Then put the retainer pins in. Full disclosure, NAPA’s “premium” parking brake shoe kit is junk. Broke a retainer pin
Question the self adjuster to you go thr same say for the driver side to make it smaller? Having hard time removing the rotor just want to make sure I'm going the right direction
Sadly, I don’t remember, but you can pretty easily spin the self adjuster, and then try to spin the brake drum. Then turn the adjuster the opposite way and spin the drum again. Whichever way feels tighter is the wrong direction. Good luck!
Great video. About to do my rear brakes. I was considering maybe doing the parking brakes - now I’m gonna leave them as is unless they fall apart. Question though - how do you adjust the parking brakes when all is done?
There are adjustments in the cables, and the self-adjuster (star shaped thing) inside the rear parking brake drum. Start by adjusting the self-adjuster in the rear brake drum as shown in the video. Then the cables if necessary.
@@WiringRescue thanks! I guess more specifically, do you adjust them to the point they start to grab/rub the drum a little? Or just before they start to grab/rub the drum? That’s what I’m not sure of
@@jeffmarcum3643 - typically I adjust them until I can juuuuust barely hear and feel them scraping the inside of the drum. Then test the parking brake to make sure they work. I fought with these ones for a while and they were still mediocre at best when I was done.
Something is dragging. The clips that attach to the brake caliper bracket would cause that. Also brake caliper slide-pins would do it too. I’d recommend figuring out which brake is getting hot and taking it apart to fix it before it gets way worse. Good luck!
Stupidest design ever just to make it so they didn't have to make separate parts for the brakes.. This way there are no right side and left side parts.. But in the driveway it makes it so much harder to maneuver when doing the rear shoes... Then I found out my backing plate was rusted out at the shoe clip and they want 250 for that part and you have to take the rear axle out so No emergency brakes for me lol. Great video by the way
I completely agree that this is a horrible design. If I could get an inspection sticker without a parking brake, I would have ignored them as well! Thanks for watching!
The rear shoes broke loose and raised hell so I was forced to take on this miserable job (2017 1500 Promaster). Replaced rotors and pads and will return to deal with parking brake when a new cable arrives. I thought it was me losing my skill to old age. Really poor design and the clip fell off because it was not completely seated when originally installed (44k miles). Misery loves company, thanks for the video..
Thank you for sharing in the misery! Is the pro master the same incredibly dumb design?! That’s too bad. The best part is when you get the parking brake shoes replaced and the parking brake barely works no matter how tight you make it. You aren’t losing your skill. It’s a seriously terrible job. I’m cheering for you!
@@WiringRescue Yup same dumb design. Now waiting for back ordered cables. Just replaced springs & struts on my 2015 Beetle. Another stupid design. The earlier VW'were really easy. Glutton for punishment.
I’m seeing mixed steps. Some open the bleeder valve to alleviate the pressure and to prevent “dirty” fluid from returning to the system when pressing in the caliper piston. But it’s essentially a closed system. Here I see that you didn’t do that. Thoughts?
I have never done that and was a tech at a dealer for years. None of the techs that I worked with did that either. HOWEVER , I do know people that do this. I just find it to be an unnecessary headache. It’s totally up to you. Do whichever will make you feel better when the job is done. :)
Always replace drum hardware. Springs if exposed to high heat (driving with the e-brake on) can lose strength and can lead to uneven wear or even failure. Media delaminating from the backing plate happens for a lot of reasons. Corrosion for one. Doesn’t necessarily mean its poor quality. Back to the hardware… your already at the parts store get the hardware, its $5, get the proper lubes and chemicals too. Remember it is an emergency brake…
@@edwardmoody4253 the way guy made it sound is that you should use it if your brake pedal goes to the floor as an emergency brake and not just when you park the truck, that's not a good idea
No need for parking breaks over here. Removed mine altogether. Never in 40 years have I used it 1 time. Soooooooo, why pay for it and take a day to diy?
@@clintonmassengale8455 my 2012 Ram free wheels back on a slope on ice if the parking brake is not engaged. Not sure if that's a factory defect or not in the trany but this is what I have observed.
I followed every advice in the video and it's not breaking loose. Fully loosened the brake shoe star thing. Undid that factory washer doohicky. Smacked it VERY hard with small sledgehammer all over - breaking the metal rotor... And I tried leverage with a long crowbar. No dice. You sure there isn't a hidden bolt holding the rotor to the plate? I couldn't find one.
Yeah, those parking brakes are a booby trap. Never use it, and only remove the parts. If you have a brake emergency, you won't have time. I had a brake failure when I first started driving, and did all the repairs myself. They hardest part is not hitting anyone.
It absolutely is. It’s a terrible design. I would not recommend this job to a friend. That being said, if you are patient, it is very doable with basic tools. It just takes a while.
why didn't clean your greasy dirty finger marks off the e-brake linings before you put the rotor back on? Always clean your lining surfaces before put a rotor or drum back. Better yet dont get them dirty to start with, yes it can be done!
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Three years later and your video upload saved the day. --- Thanks for the friendly education. ---
My plan is going together perfectly then! 😂 Thanks for watching!
I bought a $8 brass sledge from Harbor Freight that I use to knock rotors off by hitting them from the back side. The brass is so soft, it doesn't damage the rotors. This makes rotors so easy to take off!
I got an air hammer at HF to buzz on the hat for 15-20 bucks if my memory serves me right. Usually five 1 second buzzes does the job too. I like guns! I like your idea too but pulling a trigger is more fun!😂
Currently 14 minutes and counting and this video made me decide to just try and adjust the star bolt for my parking brake that isn’t working and If that doesn’t fix it I’ll watch your video again when I change my brakes in a year and screw with it then. Awesome content straight and to the point. thanks!
Glad it’s able to help you out. The job is really terrible. I’d avoid doing it if you can. Seriously, it will make you think bad thoughts about the engineers that designed it.
One of the most informative tutorials I've seen.😊
Dude you just saved me sooooo much time. Thank you thank you thank you. First time ever the brakes were a breeze. 👍🏻
That’s fantastic! I’m glad to hear my videos are helping people out! That’s exactly why I make them.
Perfect video and very informative. You covered just about everything you need to know for brake replacement.
Prying carefully with a bar was new to me. Thanks.
Happy to help! Good luck with your automotive project!
Well done. Good lighting. No never ending sanctimonious talk. Yes, that parking brake repair is a pain. Now I know and I will have a pro do mine. And I’ll make sure he puts some anti-cease on the hub before putting the new disk back. Easier to take off next time.
Yes, it's not fun at all. I would recommend having somebody else do it if you have that option!
Thanks my friend, They started squeaking and since I knew better what to look for I caught them just in time
Excellent! Thanks for watching! I really appreciate it!
Man you can always learn something from anything
Agreed. UA-cam rocks!
Excellent video, pretty much explained every step of the way, Thanks.
Thanks! I’m glad you enjoyed the video!
Your video really helped, thanks. The unusual amount of rust on my rotors extended my brake job from a couple of hours to two days. As with yours the parking brake shoes detached from the backing as soon as I removed the rotor.
Yeah overall, it’s not a super fun job to do. I would not want to do it again. Getting the parking brake to work well once the job is complete was a frustrating task as well. At least it’s over now! Thanks for watching the video!
I adjusted the shoes were I thought they should be. Unfortunately it’s not were they need to be to be effective. I was so happy to get the job done I didn’t want to climb under the truck for another week. I’ll get to it next week. Thanks again
Collecting rear brake parts to do in the spring... can't wait...
Haha! Prepare yourself for a bad time!
@@WiringRescue...it's now almost fall... procrastinating big time lol
Very useful video. For me getting the two springs in place took a long time on side one, but went pretty well on the other after some experience. The video is missing some detail there. I found that after the springs are started in the first shoe, putting a screw driver in the hole to hold them in place made it easier to stretch the spring into the other side. I also used a magnetic pen and trim remover tool on the hold down clips. I put one clip in place before finishing the two springs and that seemed easier. Another note, in my experience, don't use copper antiseize on brakes because it can cause the ABS sensor to have incorrect reads if the antisieze gets on the tone ring.
Oh, I never knew that about the clips! And I did my breaks just over a month ago.
Thank you so much bro! The bar worked and I was about use brain space. Not much left.
I’m happy to hear you found the video helpful! Thanks for watching!
Dude sounds exactly like Cary Elwes from the movie Twister 😂
Thanks For the video bro!!! It helped me a lot.
The only thing better would have been if you were here helping me😂
Haha! I hope to never do rear brakes on this truck again, they kicked my a$$! Glad to hear that yours are done too!
Thank you sir for this was very helpful than other video s on UA-cam especially loosened that small gear ⚙️ behind the rotor hubs
I’m glad that you found it helpful! It’s a miserable brake job for sure! I hope yours goes smoothly!
I just replaced the pads on my 14 and it was not as intuitive of a job as I figured it would be. Ended up needing to watch a video to figure it out and of course, gave myself a pretty good gash thanks to the stupid clips on my finger.
I got a gash from this job too. It’s truly a terrible repair to do.
Awesome troubleshooting the incorrect pad clip installation.
If you have access to a rivet gun and things are hard to get off you might call it plan d or so . I don’t have a rivet gun until I go to work and use one of theirs. Also recommend taking pictures as you go so putting it all back together is 14% easier, Great video btw. Bill
@@dropndeal he probably means impact gun, but he's hammered or ignorant.
Thanks for the video. Was considering doing my Ram. I don’t think I will have patience for those parking brake shoes. I may have to put in shop when it really needs it
You're making the right choice. It's a terrible job. Thanks for watching!
Fantastic video, thank you. I'm about to do the same job to my truck. It's 11 years on the same pads and shoes, wish me luck, lol.
Very helpful video. Maybe I'll just live without the parking brake.
Glad it helped. And yes, the amount of work for the amount of gain isn’t worth it.
Aint worth it leave it in gear i think they should last lifetime if u aint drifting
A great video. Well lit, multiple views, and you showed some of your struggles. I would have liked to see you adjust the star wheel at some point. From your vid, I know for certain I won’t attempt to work on my parking brakes. Too much of a pita. But, there’s definitely value in knowing when Not to attempt something yourself. For that, I thank you!
I’m glad the video helped you out, even if it was showing that doing parking brake shoes is an atrocious job. :) I wish I had that knowledge before I had taken it apart, as I would have planned my day much better!
Thanks for watching the video - I appreciate it!
Ggetting ready to do my brakes-thanks for the tips. Big help.
I'm happy to help because it's not an easy job. Maybe buy a 12 pack of your favorite beverage in advance, and hope it takes less than a full day. I'm cheering for you!
You need a heavy hammer to hit the rotor on top of the rotor drum or between the lugs bolts if that doesn't work use the proper puller if available. If the rotor is not being reused hit it from the inside.
Thanks for an informative video! It looks like the most awkward part of the job is getting the springs of the parking brake shoes off/on.
probably be good to put blue painters tape on the pads till your done because of the way you have to keep handling them to install. nice job
If it helps people sleep better, sure they should do that.
In my reality, the brake pads are exposed to rain, mud, salt, asphalt, rust, rubber, heat, and a whole world full of contamination every single day. If fingerprints on a rear brake pad made a difference on a 15 Ram, I probably would have protected them. But for my personal vehicles, it simply doesn’t matter.
I contaminated the hell out of mine so thank god for brake clean. Those damn shoes were jumping all over the place to get ‘em lined up. Just clean the shit off em when you’re done.
I put a light coat of never seize on the wheel bearing where it contacts the inside of the rotor. In Upper Ohio we gotta fight rust!!
I know that feeling well! Thanks for watching !
Very well done video ,thankx!
Thank you! It’s a miserable job though. I would not recommend it to a friend! Lol
I could not get the rears off on my 2002 ram truck.
So I brought it to a local garage and gave them the parts I bought and paid for the labor to have them installed
I beat on those rotors quite a bit but I think I just loosened it for the mechanic
They had the job done in a 1/2 hour when it took me longer to get the rotor off with a no go for me
I still came out cheaper since I bought all the parts myself both front and rear rotors and pads right around $300 total
I got the fronts done on my own and they came off and went on easy
Otherwise a shop would have charged me over $1000 for the whole job, a mopar garage wanted a lot more just in the parts alone without the labor .
With labor from the mopar garage I would be certain it would be over $2000 for the entire job
I saved a lot of money having the brakes done the way I did it.
By the way I think the books call for removing the axels for the rear brake job with the E brake shoes.
And if you are wondering all four corners of the brakes wore evenly all the way around which is a good thing to have and I was using the brakes properly and not stabbing the brakes all the time waring them like some people probably do.
Great video. I want you to do the brakes on my 15 Ram. 😊
Lol. After doing them once, I would say I’ve learned my lesson, and therefore will not be doing them again! The regular brakes are easy. The parking brakes are not fun at all!
I usually slab some grease behind the rotors to make removal easier in future.
Great idea!
At the 2:50 mark, you point out that the emergency brake adjustment is on the Bottom on the passenger side and the Top on the driver's side. However, the video doesn't mention the fact that the direction you turn the star wheel is opposite, depending on which side you are on. On the passenger side, you put the screwdriver in pointing down and turn the wheel up as shown at 3:15. But on the driver's side, you want to do the opposite. Put the screwdriver in angling up and turn the wheel down
Many thanks for this merciful tidbit of information.
Jeff, I must’ve tried 8 times back and forth, already knowing what you said to be true. Just lost track in my minds eye. Got it done but geez it should’ve been easier. That drivers side is a bitch with the tire back on but that’s how I was taught, tire on until you feel it drag. I definitely was missing the late 90’s F350’s at that point with both adjusters on the bottom!
@@mattsrant2872 I already had a rotor to replace the old one, so I wasn't worried about damaging it. I was beating on that thing with a sledgehammer so much that my emergency brake shoes were coming out with the rotor. Felt like an idiot after I figured out the issue.
@@golfnutt1969 Classic! The neighbors must’ve been dying. Haha
@@mattsrant2872 I'm sure they were shielding their kid's ears with the expletives coming from my garage.
Good work on the parking shoes
Great video. Very well done
Perfect to the point 👍🏻👍🏻 thank you
Thanks for watching! Hopefully it helped you out!
@@WiringRescue definitely
Nice video. Now I feel guilty for not checking or replacing the parking brakes. You can also put anti seize on wheel bearing hub face and the rotors will come off way easier in the future and you will thank yourself.
Yes - I do the anti seize thing often! Great tip!
F?!&, I wish I would’ve read the comments before the job. Duh. This would’ve helped for next time. At least I’ve got a BFH!
I just did my rear pads on my 2017 ram and they where just like the ones u did one the passenger rear also it must be a factory thing as this is the 1st set on my truck with 60k miles
AWSOME LESSEN LEARDED A LOT THANK
Excellent! Thank you for watching!!!
Awesome video!!!!
Thank you! I really appreciate you taking the time to watch!
Great videos. Thank you.
I use a gear puller to remove a hard to remove rotor
Good information here! Nice video
Thanks! I recommend not ever replacing parking brake shoes on one of these Ram trucks. It's truly a terrible job.
Now that you’ve done it your way would you recommend doing it this way versus removing the axles to make it easier to work on the hardware and then have the added bonus of replacing the diff oil at around 100k km/ 60k miles ???? Since the diff cover would be removed in order to pop the click and pull the axles out. Every local mechanic wants to pull the axles out.
That's a tough question! My method was terrible, and took a really long time. Having the axles out would have helped a LOT. If you are somebody with less patience or giant hands - pull the axles! If you have tons of patience and small hands - leave the axles in!
I followed every advice in the video and it's not breaking loose. Fully loosened the brake shoe star thing. Undid that factory washer doohicky. Smacked it VERY hard with small sledgehammer all over - breaking the metal rotor... And I tried leverage with a long crowbar. No dice. You sure there isn't a hidden bolt holding the rotor to the plate? I couldn't find one.
It truly is a miserable job. If the brake shoes have worn into the inside of the rotor, there is a rusty edge that they get hooked on which prevents the rotor from coming off. They do make brake drum pullers that you might be able to rent at a local auto part store. The other option is to keep cutting and cut the drum off with a cut off wheel. Lastly, if you haven’t bought parking brake shoes you probably should now. Sorry you are suffering through it, I did as well.
@@WiringRescue Hopefully Partsource is open on Canada Day and has these brake shoes in stock. I got the brake rotors and pads from rockauto. Would suck to have to put it all back together in order to go dirt biking today. I appreciate your kind words and advice.
The penetrating oil I put between the rotor and axel and in the lug bolt holes didn't help. I can turn the rotor a small bit before it engages the drive so I don't think the shoes are engaged. I think it's just seized to the axel. I'll see if anything is open that can rent me a brake puller.
The only tool I can find to rent or buy is called a hub puller with a sliding hammer. Canadian Tire says it will take the rotor off with the hub. Is that ok? If it achieves that, I think it will have defeated the fact it is seized to the axel. I just don't know what I need to expect for putting the hub back on. And hopefully the rotor isn't seized to the hub.
I don’t think that style hub puller is going to work for you. Your rear drum is stuck to a solid rear axle, not a hub. Does the drum pry off even a little bit, or is it 100% solidly attached to the end of the axle?
Brake parts lubricant works better then anti seize sometimes
Cleaning the caliper brackets would also help as well
Great video Bro
Hello, I just replaced all my calipers,rotors, brakes. The loosening of the parking break was a great idea for getting the rotor off, although I attempted to retighten it after I was done. I’m hearing a scrapping noise when I drive now, could it be because I over tightened the parking break?
If it’s getting hot then you over tightened it. If it’s making a scraping noise, most of the time it is a backing plate rubbing on a rotor/drum. Jack up the truck and spin each whee by hand, you should be able to easily spot the problem if it’s a backing plate. Just nudge it back into its happy place and drive on!
Let me know what you find!
@@WiringRescue okay thank you I appreciate the help man
Well you can use that brake pad as a wedge now lmfao 🤣 😂
Good Video. Question, is there not threaded holes on the rotor for a bolt to be screwed into to release the rotor ?
On mine, there were not any holes for doing that. Maybe you will be luckier than I was !
Good work
Put a little anti-seize on the backs of the pads were the calliper contacts them.
Never ceases to amaze me how long people will let their car make obviously bad noises lol
He skipped through the hardest freaking part. Getting the 2 long springs and shoes in place
I made up both shoes with the springs and spread them out to get in the notch. Then put the retainer pins in. Full disclosure, NAPA’s “premium” parking brake shoe kit is junk. Broke a retainer pin
Question the self adjuster to you go thr same say for the driver side to make it smaller? Having hard time removing the rotor just want to make sure I'm going the right direction
Sadly, I don’t remember, but you can pretty easily spin the self adjuster, and then try to spin the brake drum. Then turn the adjuster the opposite way and spin the drum again. Whichever way feels tighter is the wrong direction. Good luck!
Great video. About to do my rear brakes. I was considering maybe doing the parking brakes - now I’m gonna leave them as is unless they fall apart. Question though - how do you adjust the parking brakes when all is done?
There are adjustments in the cables, and the self-adjuster (star shaped thing) inside the rear parking brake drum. Start by adjusting the self-adjuster in the rear brake drum as shown in the video. Then the cables if necessary.
@@WiringRescue thanks! I guess more specifically, do you adjust them to the point they start to grab/rub the drum a little? Or just before they start to grab/rub the drum? That’s what I’m not sure of
@@jeffmarcum3643 - typically I adjust them until I can juuuuust barely hear and feel them scraping the inside of the drum. Then test the parking brake to make sure they work. I fought with these ones for a while and they were still mediocre at best when I was done.
@@WiringRescue thanks for the info and the quick reply!
@@jeffmarcum3643 happy to help! Good luck with the project! I’m cheering for you!
I know it could be a 100 different things but I'm getting a burning smell from the breaks i replaced. Any idea what it might be?
Something is dragging. The clips that attach to the brake caliper bracket would cause that. Also brake caliper slide-pins would do it too. I’d recommend figuring out which brake is getting hot and taking it apart to fix it before it gets way worse. Good luck!
Stupidest design ever just to make it so they didn't have to make separate parts for the brakes.. This way there are no right side and left side parts.. But in the driveway it makes it so much harder to maneuver when doing the rear shoes... Then I found out my backing plate was rusted out at the shoe clip and they want 250 for that part and you have to take the rear axle out so No emergency brakes for me lol. Great video by the way
I completely agree that this is a horrible design. If I could get an inspection sticker without a parking brake, I would have ignored them as well! Thanks for watching!
This job is a royal pain
I totally agree. It’s the worst.
@@WiringRescue I’m in the middle of this job as we speak. Missing college football on a holiday weekend sucks!
@@Earlvis the bright side is you saved about 6 to 800 dollars
Did you spray your old brakes with oil or is something else leaking.
I did spray them with brake clean to keep the dust down a bit.
The rear shoes broke loose and raised hell so I was forced to take on this miserable job (2017 1500 Promaster). Replaced rotors and pads and will return to deal with parking brake when a new cable arrives. I thought it was me losing my skill to old age. Really poor design and the clip fell off because it was not completely seated when originally installed (44k miles). Misery loves company, thanks for the video..
Thank you for sharing in the misery! Is the pro master the same incredibly dumb design?! That’s too bad. The best part is when you get the parking brake shoes replaced and the parking brake barely works no matter how tight you make it.
You aren’t losing your skill. It’s a seriously terrible job. I’m cheering for you!
@@WiringRescue Yup same dumb design. Now waiting for back ordered cables. Just replaced springs & struts on my 2015 Beetle. Another stupid design. The earlier VW'were really easy. Glutton for punishment.
I’m seeing mixed steps. Some open the bleeder valve to alleviate the pressure and to prevent “dirty” fluid from returning to the system when pressing in the caliper piston. But it’s essentially a closed system. Here I see that you didn’t do that. Thoughts?
I have never done that and was a tech at a dealer for years. None of the techs that I worked with did that either. HOWEVER , I do know people that do this. I just find it to be an unnecessary headache. It’s totally up to you. Do whichever will make you feel better when the job is done. :)
Just open the cap on master cylinder. I haven’t seen a single manufacturer say you need to open the bleeder valve when compressing
@@WiringRescue thanks for the confirmation.
@@FleetTech97 as you described it seems to be the consensus. Thanks for the response!
Always replace drum hardware. Springs if exposed to high heat (driving with the e-brake on) can lose strength and can lead to uneven wear or even failure. Media delaminating from the backing plate happens for a lot of reasons. Corrosion for one. Doesn’t necessarily mean its poor quality. Back to the hardware… your already at the parts store get the hardware, its $5, get the proper lubes and chemicals too. Remember it is an emergency brake…
It’s not an emergency brake, it’s a parking brake though
@@matteagle8206 Same thing Emer. brake , parking braking
@@edwardmoody4253 the way guy made it sound is that you should use it if your brake pedal goes to the floor as an emergency brake and not just when you park the truck, that's not a good idea
No need for parking breaks over here. Removed mine altogether. Never in 40 years have I used it 1 time. Soooooooo, why pay for it and take a day to diy?
@@clintonmassengale8455 my 2012 Ram free wheels back on a slope on ice if the parking brake is not engaged. Not sure if that's a factory defect or not in the trany but this is what I have observed.
I always like to take apart the brake adjuster apart and never seize it to .
Agreed! They are almost always frozen - except for this brake job, which was a nice surprise!
I cant even reach the adjuster star. it looks rusted on and I cant spin it. Thoughts?
You may need to try a variety of different flat screwdrivers and use a flash light. The whole job is way harder than it should be.
People brag about having disc and call drum brakes garbage not knowing they also have drum brakes inside of disc talk about heavy!
Wait a min. I thought there was some sort of clip holding that roater in place. Besides those clips on the lug bolts
Nope. But the inner brake shoes hold the rotors in place quite tightly. So you’ll have the benefit of that fight! :D
always use new spring kits never use the old ones!
Why did you have to also change the brake shoes?
It’s been a while, but I believe the brake shoes fell apart when I removed the rotor.
Loosen the drum brakes all you want, but rust and delaminated shoes are normally an issue
why does that rotor look like a salvage part??
I think it’s because in Massachusetts, everything rusts as soon as the air touches it.I would not recommend cars from this state.
When a rotor doesn't come off easily, I use a gear puller.
I would have tried, but my gear puller wasn’t big enough.
My 2003 Ram has about 90% less rust then this 2015. I live in Florida though.
Yeah - Massachusetts salt and snow absolutely ruins cars fast. It’s a huge bummer.
Unless it's a manual transmission the parking brake is useless. I delete parking brakes whenever I do rear brakes.
Sadly the Massachusetts state inspection requires a working parking brake. So we have no choice.
Might be worth the effort of removing the axle to do that job.
Yes, if you are comfortable pulling axles, it would be waaaaay easier.
Nice job bro but plan B should of been a 6lb 🔨 lol.those brake shoes i think were the worst invention ever.thank god for brake pads 👌
Haha! I agree!
I used a big hammer in mine for 45 minutes before it broke loose
Its truly an awful rear brake job to do. I'm sorry to hear that that you were tortured with it as well! Thanks for watching the video!
I followed every advice in the video and it's not breaking loose. Fully loosened the brake shoe star thing. Undid that factory washer doohicky. Smacked it VERY hard with small sledgehammer all over - breaking the metal rotor... And I tried leverage with a long crowbar. No dice. You sure there isn't a hidden bolt holding the rotor to the plate? I couldn't find one.
He smashed his thumb before he even started.
That’s accurate! It hurt too! I would not recommend smashing your thumb or doing this brake job. Both are equally terrible.
Antiseize
Air hammer with flat hammer head
My star on the back of the rotor I can’t even move
That happens sometimes. It will ruin your day and make the whole job 10x harder. It may also mean you have to break a few things to get it all apart.
Yeah, those parking brakes are a booby trap. Never use it, and only remove the parts. If you have a brake emergency, you won't have time. I had a brake failure when I first started driving, and did all the repairs myself. They hardest part is not hitting anyone.
Damn. Looks like a nightmare to do. 😩
It absolutely is. It’s a terrible design. I would not recommend this job to a friend. That being said, if you are patient, it is very doable with basic tools. It just takes a while.
@@WiringRescue I'm probably gonna take it to my local brake shop and let them deal with it. As far as pads and rotors. Well that's easy peasy imo. 👊🏽😎
You will have better success getting the rotor off with a hammer that you didn't get from the wife's tool drawer.just sayin
This being the highlighted comment crazy 🤣
I hate those darn kind of brakes . I would have had the 8 lb sledge out 10 min ago.🥴🥴🥴
Haha! They are truly a terrible design. I hope to never do them again.
A 4lb beater would better
Those pad clips are dumb I had to bend them all to get the pads in.
Sorry....I stopped watching after the 6th ad popped up
BUY YOURSELF A BRASS OR A DEADBLOW HAMMER.
Those springs SUCK.
Yes, they really do!!
Only dodge would use sliders that are not all the same lol. Those carriers are such a poor design.
Be careful not to hit the wheel Studs
Use a biger hammer
Heat would help.
why didn't clean your greasy dirty finger marks off the e-brake linings before you put the rotor back on? Always clean your lining surfaces before put a rotor or drum back. Better yet dont get them dirty to start with, yes it can be done!