How to make a pearl ring.
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- Опубліковано 18 тра 2024
- This is by far the best way of making a pearl ring the easy way, but still looking professional.
Ring vid that shows step rolling.
• How to make a ring sha...
Vid that shows my felt trimming.
• Jewellery Tools. How t...
Any question, please ask.
#tutorial #new #jewellery - Навчання та стиль
Brilliant, informative as always Ydna... Would you be kind enough to leave your creations on screen for at least 30 seconds or so, so we can get a real proper look once the tutorial has finished... Appreciate you 👌🏾
Cheers mate. Thanks for the feed back. I can certainly add a few extra seconds, no problem. 👍🏼👍🏼
Wonderful video thanks!
@@kassemkarim7579 you're welcome. Thank you.
Subbed, these videos are amazing.
Thank you so much. Comments and likes encourage me more than anything. 👍🏼
Andy, I imagine you might also agree. Every single fellow jeweler that I chat with - without exception - has stated that so-called "pearl drill bits" are useless. A simple diamond coated twist drill hit works fine. The expensive bits made for pearls (they look like thin wimpy paddles) over heat and anneal themselves within .5 of a mm into the pearl. Don't bother with them. My opinion. You don't need a special drill bit for pearls. They're a scam. Go slow, don't overheat, use water, you're good! Great video, excellent play by play. I'm REALLY looking forward to graver sharpening, yay!
True. They're not great. Diamond twist would be best. They're the same level scam as firescale protectors. 🤣
@@metalofhonour That's so funny and true! Oh, and sorry, I want trying to tell you (the master jeweler) what to do, just what I have found helpful. 😆
I work with silver mostly and if I get fire stain yess it’s a pain in the butt to get out. But I was taught to go back several different times to where the fire stain is and use my torch over and over to pull out the copper. This will remove the fire stain spot. Also I my flux all over my ring shank or any large surface for protection from getting fire stain. If not it will show up like a sore thumb in the polishing stage. Now fire scale is removed from putting my piece in work pickle. I really love your videos. Finally we have a very experienced metalsmith showing us some new techniques. 🤗 Michelle oh what are the names of those German files you mentioned to me awhile back. I use Swiss files expensive but they work great. But I’m open minded to new files.. I need some new needle files!!! Going back to watching your video. Thanks, Michelle
I just said to someone else, I may have miss spoke. Fire stain doesn't really bother me as I'll just get rid of it. It's the silversmiths making bowls and jugs I feel sorry for. Fire stain and firescale are the same thing. And yes, re heating with a very yellow flame and pickling, then repeating is very good too. The normal blackness that you shift after soldering is just oxidisation.
Thanks again for your kind words.
Those German ones are called D.I.C.K files. I don't really have many left. I only order them when I order my little mops from Germany.
@@metalofhonour Andy, me butting in on your chat with Michelle: What is this that she's mentioning about heating to "pull copper out"? Is that even possible when using sterling? Isn't copper integral to "sterling"? I've never heard of this. I have heard of depletion guilding (heating and reheating repeatedly to develop a layer of fine silver OVER the firestain) to disguise it. Do you think that's what she means? Sooo interesting! Thanks for illumination of these details. And thanks, Michelle, for bringing this up.
What are the names of your polishing wheels? I will use my flex shaft to polish using silicone wheels that start from a course, medium, fine, extra fine. Or I will use Tripoli on a cotton mop bit to get out the small surface cuts and get a pre-polish ,then go in with red rouge or a white diamond polish, on a separate cotton mop to give my peace it’s final polish. I use cotton string and my silicone will to get in hard to reach places as well as using the silicone wheels to give my peace a good, good beautiful polish. also I really liked that you twisted the wire to make the pearl have a much stronger fit. Great video Michelle
Oh I just remember that you use felt bits to add your compound on to polishing your work… I had forgotten until you mentioned you would leave a link and then my memory came back because I remember you talking about this in a previous video… I hope I didn’t just confuse you???
It's all good. I'm sure a guy put a link in one of the comments to another place that sells them too.
You know something I found to be great to put around your pliers and stuff. Teflon tape. Round pliers a little slippery but works great
I've always got it in my general tool box for DIY. We call it ptfe tape over here. I've never even thought of trying it. Maybe a bit of masking tape with the ptfe over the top. I'll give it a try next time. Cheers dude.
I was thinking of trying shrinking tubes for electrical wires. Let me know if you've tried and it's not a good idea 😅
@@ElinHaugan not a bad idea. They teflon holds up nice too, like I said tho not on round pliars for obvious reasons but I may try this idea too I have some right here lol
@@metalofhonour hell it’s held up nicely, a little ptfe tape an your in there 😂
@@TheArtisanTouch so do I, but just 400 other things to do 😆 Have'nt got to it yet, but you know... one rainy day 😅
It was very hard to understand what you said while polishing, but besides that, great video! 😊
When I learned to set pearls, I learned one could use a broken saw blade to fill the pearl with glue to make sure it has good contact.
Firescale comes from heating the piece for too long. Try more heat over shorter time 🙂 You can also prevent it by useing a flux called Firescoff. Just coat the entire piece with it before soldering.
If the pearls are small a pin or a broken saw blade is best. But this pearl is so big, probably could have got my little finger in there 🤣.
Firescoff is the biggest con of all the products. Evaporates quickly. Best one is the one you mix with methylated spirit. But don't burn off like told to. You leave it for 15 minutes then solder. But even this one leaves stains. Fire stain does indeed come from the heat, hence the name. Heating quickly and faster will make it worse and cause more. If you're heating it quicker, it means you're probably using a more blue coloured flame. Blue part of the flame has more oxygen in the flame, which is the start off cause of the scaling. Plus heating quickly will have a chance to warp pieces and shift joints. Slow and gentle with the yellow section of flame is 100 % best. Whoever told you a hotter and quicker heating is needed, needs firing from their job. Message them and educate them quickly. They're probably telling the same things to everyone on jewellery Facebook groups too.
Yeah yeah. I see see how much time was left on the video and had to spit my words out quickly 🤣
Thanks for commenting. It's appreciated.
@@metalofhonour I like the Firescoff, but yes, if left in an open container it evaporates very fast. If I realise I've forgot the to put the lid on, i just add destilated water and stirr it, works a treat 🙂 I don't think I've seen the type you're mentioning 🤔 So meny fluxes out there and just a tiny amount available here in Norway 🤷♀️ We really need a good supplier here.
When it comes to heat, it's probably about shaveing your head, not cutting it off 😅 I used too little heat when I started smithing, took several minutes to get the solder to flow on a ring and got baaad firescales.🙈 Learned that I had too soft flame and after I got it right I have'nt seen firescale on my work 🤷♀️ I rarely use anything but hard solder btw.
The talking speed was fine, it's the noise from the tool overpowering your voice. I normaly speed up your videos to x1,5 and still understand everything you say 😅
Appreciate your feedback, nice to exchange experience 😊
@ElinHaugan it's the powder that you mix with methylated and purposely let evaporates on the metal before firing I meant. That is actually the best one by far. But I think I may have been miss understood or I didn't speak properly. But fire stain in jewellery doesn't bother me because it comes off quickly and no real drama. It's the silversmiths making jugs and bowls I feel sorry for. That's when it's a problem.
@@metalofhonour I've only seen Borax powder over here. Besides that there are only some different pastes and liquid varieties. I have'nt tried any larger than a "My first tooth and hair lock" box, but I can imagine it can be pretty hard to get firescale out of a large piece and get an even result 😬
@ElinHaugan it's nightmare inducing. I've seen silver smiths scrubbing the same bowl for days on end with water and pumice powder.
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Thank you. 😊
That's stunning! Thanks for sharing your thoughts and methods, most appreciated. Any chance of a link to where you buy those felt mops?
Thank you. Here's the link to the German website.
I warn you now though. It's a dangerous website and you'll spend far more than you intend to 🤣😂
goldschmiedebedarf.de/en/product_info.php?products_id=5606
@@metalofhonour Thanks for that. I'll have to make sure the Mrs is'nt looking. 😆🤣
hi there brilliant video and will try this as a new person starting out ,would you have any information for burn out kilns on a small scale as myself thank you martin
Thanks for taking the time to comment. Definitely give it a go. If I cast anything, it's normally one off delft clay kit things. I never touch kiln burn out stuff. Sorry. My advice on the would be chocolate tea-pot level 🤣
Did you alter your ring clamp? I have never seen that looks like yours. Or is there a ring clamp already made like this? This was when you were using your sanding sticks to clean up the sides of the ring. I do 9:28 alter some of my tools, that’s why I’m asking. Thanks Michelle
It's one of these. www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Ring-Clamp-With-Screw-Base-prcode-999-AKW&query=Ring%20clamp&channel=uk
Another cracking video Andy. Starting to be a crucial part of my (very) early morning routine. What saw blades would you recommend? I got what i thought was a reasonable brand, but they don't cut as clean as yours. Obviously that could be my technique! Keep up the great work.
Thank you. It's a tough one. So many different stories. So many people say all of the blades are made in the same factory. I personally don't believe it to be true. Some of the real cheap ones seem like a waste of time. I kind of mix it up and use both Vallorbe and Pike blades. For size, 2, 2/0 and 4/0 for most work. But I always have some size 4s on stand by for when I do any wax work.
I also very rarely use wax or any other easy cut wax. I always prefer to use them dry. They don't last quite as long, but the cut is crisper for me.
Thanks again for watching so much.
@@metalofhonour Cheers Andy. I really do appreciate you taking the time to respond, it really helps. Although, I'm not sure how you find the time.
@@steveredwatty good time management and a couple of longer days and earlier mornings each week. 😂