As a welder who specializes in marine grade aluminum/ stainless, this was painful to watch. Don’t use a cut off wheel to weld prep aluminum. It will leave contaminates on the base metal. Best to use a metal blade if you have to prep your weld after the tack. I understand why you didn’t want to weld prep before the repair, because it willl mess with your fit up, but a good fabricator would clamp to a stiff back and get the same fit up and have weld prep before you put the fracture back together… if it held then that’s all that matters, but I’d ol be surprised because the base metal at the root of the weld was contaminated. But hey, what do I know I’m just a random commenter on the internet!
Сам имею мастерскую, в основном сварка в среде аргона. Когда увидел проволоку...))) Безмерно благодарен таким " мастерам"!!! Потому что ценник на переделку их кроилова, плюс 200%. 😊
@@Sivojar тут ещё "рояль в кустах" - он варит портачкой- первичкой от мотора компрессора холодильника! Просто это "выстрелит" позже.А потом покажет "сварку дерева берёзовыми электродами"...хуле,уровень просмотров позволяет.И ведь кого то устраивает,кто то этим пользуется...шарлатан от Дьявола!
Этот способ мало кто знает, это точно, потому что так делают только когда совсем нечем работать. Профессионалы всегда имеют в арсенале присадочные прутки нужного сплава, а также пользуются для обработки борфрезами, так как любой образив загрязняет алюминий и ухудшает прочность сварочного шва.
Не пали контору, о нормальных методах сварки мало кто знает) Пусть сидит и дальше страдает херней Потому что состав алюминия разный Если провод похож на пруток, то не означает что можно им паять Это как пластик абс и пет
Добавлю, что снял усиление шва в этом месте, на сколько видно под детали оно совсем не должно мешать. Хорошо, допустим что мешает, тогда с внутренней стороны должно быть усилено согласно направлению нагрузки, которую должна испытывать рама. Разлделка кромок вообще от фонаря. Вертикальный шов накладывается сверху вниз.
Не стреляйте в пианиста-он играет как умеет. Нет сквозного провара.просто декоративное поверхностное соединение двух обломков. Прямое назначение-повесить на гвоздик на стенку как пособие что так варить нельзя. Тем более устанавливать эту деталь после такой сварки на моциль опасно для жизни. Ну если только для "лучшего" друга то можно. Но в таком случае нужно менять пароли и явки что бы не притянули по статье.
THANK YOU for making your video. Please take an old man's advice, for the next time you do a repair that way. Use a dremel and an end-mill bit, on the inside, and wear your sealed goggles and hollow a wide V-groove on the inside of the part. DO NOT use a wire wheel. Use a fine sandpaper lap sanding wheel, on your grinder, for the outside. Clean the area really good. Secure the part so it's bent the directions it wants to lay, for the fit. Try it back on the equipment it's for, if possible. Make SURE it fits! tack it outside then inside, and stagger the tacks inside and out. That way it wont pull more one way than the other.Have your tig ready to use. Crank up your oxy/actlyn torch to a medium flame and heat the whole part up so you can't touch it. THEN...weld it INSIDE !!!put a lot of filler rod inside. You're NOT going to grind it off. Then, on the outside, lay a stack of dimes, by melting in the surface of the metal, feed in the filler rod, come across it and back up, over and over again, never cutting off your power, and DON'T use "Pulse or Stitch" and a lay a pretty bead, nice and wide, and DON'T grind it off!!!!!! You remove MOST of your strength when you do! Let it air cool. Then crank up your torch again and have a medium flame and heat the whole part up again. This helps relieve the internal stresses of the metal. I've been told it's like a tug of war inside, between the two pieces and the annealing action, kills all of that! DO NOT grind the weld smooth ! !!!!!!! It will last a long time, this way. Let it cool till room temperature. NEVER DIP in quench tank of water! heat it up about 100 degrees and shoot it with Rust-Oleum XX2 paint. It won't corrode that way, (and aluminum is bad to do that). Also, make darn sure the material isn't MAGNESIUM, or you'll be welding a FIRE-STICK !
@General Not so. Magnesium will not ignite in solid form. Only in a granulated or shaved state. And of course use magnesium electrode rod to weld magnesium, even though certain aluminum rods can be used to weld magnesium, depending on the circumstances.
Experienced welders, especially TIG welders know about welding aluminum. No secret or time forgotten trick or hack. That's why aluminum welding rods have been available for decades.
@@madog1 I know , we used Argon at work for TIG welding stainless , but I haven't used tig for alloy though . MIG also uses argon but MAG (for steel ) tends to use Argon Co2 mix (not an inert gas ) . No flux is used for MIG MAG or TIG as they rely on gas shield
The real secret in TIG welding aluminum is using DC straight polarity, using red 2 percent tungsten and pure Helium. It's used to weld small brackets to one or two inch plate. You will have black soot on the weld, but it's easily cleaned off with a stainless wire brush. I only use an old transformer machine where I work. Learned it from an old timer in 1976.
@@nounoufriend1442All metals are weldable with TIG, except zinc which is the plating used on galvanized steel. The short list: steel, aluminum, stainless, copper, brass and titanium. And for TIG welding you can only use Argon or a mix of Argon and Helium. No Argon/CO2 for TIG. Try some MIG ?, spray arc using Argon with 2 percent Oxygen. I never learned the term MAG, you'll see the question mark. I'm just an old timer.
i agree with the comments criticyzing the methods of welding preparation. as an welder certified for aircraft welding, i would add that it is not advisable to grind the weld after it was finished. knowledge of the type of alloy and the right welding rod material is important. some aluminium materials are not weldable and if weldable, the mechanical strenght may be poor after welding
@@anonymous-tn6ijIt's called being a spelling na - z i . You gots to be more pacific I donts knew what yews talkin bout. The weld is supposed to be chamfered first or the edge ground at a 45 degree angle. There's no space for the weld to sleep in, it do not want to sit on top. It's a third world hack trick, pay no attention.
My dear friend, I have been welding aluminium for over 30 years, you have done some things that disqualify you from the start, the first thing is that you weld a part that is subjected to some force, with current wire as an additive material is embarrassing. The alloying elements in that wire are not exactly compatible with that piece. second thing, to polish the weld bead is not admissible and so the processing was done of poor quality, if you also erase the weld bead the resistance is minimal this piece can probably only be used to support flowers .the frequency on the alternating current is too low and the welding parameters (current) is at the lower limit and you can not have penetration into the material, so a disqualified weld . I salute you with respect.
i would get an actual welding wire to match the material prep everything by grinding it with wire brush wipe it with acetone or alcohol after grinding the edges ofc clamp it and start tacking one in the out and one in the inside so it wont bend and then grind the tacks a bit preheat and start welding i would do one inch outside and follow it with another in the inside after finishing every thing i will grind the weld with out grinding the piece that i m welding and then using send paper polish everything quick paint and job done (i have never welded anything in my life).
@@refl3xun_named684 Then what are you saying? You replay some enswer you've read from somebody gave in some commenting areas over the internet?..or what you even talk about this stuff in the first place?
Nice, a tip for you ; clamp one end of that cable piece in vice, the other end in a drill spin the drill while applying slight tension for a short while. It straightens the wire quickly and consistently straight.
I wouldn't use pulse for that thick material, i see lack of penetration because of that, wire wheel is also poor choice to clean up, best is sandpaper grinder disc but I guess it is all You have and you trying to survive in this world so good job my friend 😁
Looks like you have a shop, welding table, welding gloves, hood, TIG welder, shielding gas, power tools, abrasive disks...etc, but use cuttings of electric cable as filler rod?
Always make sure Brush wheels are stainless steel for aluminum and never touched anything else besides aluminum Same for Wire brushes Stainless steel only and only touched aluminum only and use lots and lots of acetone and if you want preheat your metal aluminum cools 4x faster than carbon steel EDIT Also don't use low pulse no 1 PPS use 10 or 30 PPS and wait till the oxide layers burns off before adding filler and moving
Why is everybody forgetting to mention the parts have to be chamfered or grind the edges at a 45 degree angle. And use 4043 filler rod for cast aluminum. Pre-heat is good if you don't want it to crack. Clamp the parts down to a piece of 1/4 - 25mm thickness steel plate to keep the parts straight.
@@bernardmauge8613 oui et il a gagné une fortune avec sa vidéo , presque 6 millons de vue , c'est juste ce qu'il avait besoin , sa soudure il n'en avait rien a faire ......
This guy made videos for living not welding. And the way I see it, he's an Asian. No safety, working in workshop with casual shorts, using mig glove for Tig welding, no glove while holding torch...
*"Without a doubt, the breakthrough for aluminum as a welded structural material occurred with the introduction in the 1940s of the inert gas welding processes."* Rarely known?!?! They have been teaching aluminum welding at a local HS for over a decade. Rarely known in the third world maybe.
There right ,,but it will probably hold the way you did it ,,these guy are not being mean just trying to help you ,thank you for showing us the video I did it just like you did the first time I weld
@@CoHBe6etuyx Варится. Если марка Al не указана , то можно было бы на сайте производителя глянуть или на фан-форумах. Обычно на подобные кронштейны идут 6005 .6061 , или семёрка .Но скорее тут шестёрка , вон как пузырится от "присадки" из чистого алюминия..... Тут несколько нарушений. И скорее всего лопнет теперь по краю шва.
Лайк за смелость! Но нужно было показать нагрузку на слом, ведь эта деталь имеет не маленькую нагрузку я так понимаю, а так этот вариант сварки имеет места , если больше нечем для не несущих нагрузку типа что-то то отремонтировать маскирующие или декоративные элементы, которые , если сломаются, то не нанесут увечий пользователю!!!! Спасибо!
*No deep penetration. That needed to be ground to a wide V on both sides at the break, then welded from the inside to the outside in order to be a structurally sound weld.*
Done MIG alloy welding you should see weld pool nearly coming through to back of weld for correct penetration , our test welds were cut to check penetration
A fine job of sanding but not such a good job welding. Lots of contamination and porosity in the weld and no penetration on the weld on the inside of the piece. Buffing with a wire wheel before welding often imbeds impurities into the base material and the constant sticking of the tungsten also makes for contamination of the weld. Probably not a good idea to use electrical wire for filler but if that is all you have it has to do.
@@Tiger-hp9nq everything said above is very correct. I would never disrespect good advise and criticism. This is coming from a man that has been welding aluminium for over thirty years
Guess I should not be a keyboard critic and suggest how I would do that repair. So, If I was to do that repair at our shop I would clean the weld area thoroughly then groove the backside with a carbide burring tool to prevent any contamination of the base metal from the adhesives that hold the grinding wheel together. That also lets me use the original break line on the front to get everything back into correct alignment. I would then weld the backside getting good penetration of the joint. Hopefully I would have the correct filler material. Basically we use 4043 for cast aluminum and 5356 for forged aluminums , but if electrical wire is all that is available use it, I have done some oxy acetylene repairs using wire coat hangers when I was young. I would then groove out the front of the seam all the way into the existing weld on the inside and weld the outside groove getting 100% penetration on the repair making sure to get good starts and stops at the edges of the piece. Yes I have done this type of repair many times.
Cast parts like this are typically 3000, 4000, or 7000 series aluminum, which is about 95% aluminum. Power cable is 1350-H19 is nearly pure aluminum (99.5%) making it an excellent conductor. While 1000 series isn't the best choice for filler material (lower strength, increased risk of cracking when welding other series), it would work in a pinch if you are not trying to achieve structural strength. It is definitely an interesting thought experiment what other materials could be used in a pinch if you are out of 4000 series filler rods.
Welding seam argon welding is carried out strictly according to the technology of laying the seam from the bottom up, so starting to weld a detail from the bottom metal is sealed without forming pores (if you weld a detail from the top down the metal will flow down and not formed a dense weld metal to the details) pipe argon welding under the scheme with a clock round dial, from 06:00 to 09:00 then from 07:00 to 15:00 then from 09:00 to 12:00 from 15:00 to 11:00 argon weld lay perfectly if the current is selected . ( The rolled seam is never peeled off ! It is forbidden !)
GREAT JOB! is the weld structurally sound? i am no welder or fabricator but i am amazed. guess there's different ways to do the same thing but i learned a lot..
It was done half @$$'d. 1st it wasn't cleaned correctly, then he didn't clamp down once fitted up then he didn't cut a gap along the break to get penetration.
We could criticize it but not bad the first thing is to wire brush with a stainless brush then a good bevel jig it up pre heat with a rose but to at least 250 to 300° tack it up and bolt it down begin to weld then put a welding blanket over it or bury in sand to cool evenly
Согласен с профиками, недостаточная выработка под сварной шов в начале, и лишнее стачивание сварноно шва в конце. Недостаток первого должно компесироваться вторым, а здесь недостаток первого и недостаток второго.
Welding cast aluminum can be tricky. There’s often a bunch of junk in the casting that can make welding it a real pain. The junk spits and spatters, and makes these bubbly hollow voids in the weld that have to be chased out and replaced with fresh aluminum rod. And this is where it gets tricky. The key is to be patient and displace the junk while adding fresh metal without making the weld pool too large and to take multiple passes. More often than not, the weld will fight you the whole way and you’ve got to remember to get carried away and not be tempted to keep chasing the junk. If you do that, you are only going to expose even more junk. The first weld is usually going to look kinda crappy with voids and other impurities that surfaces. When this happens, simply grind off the junk with a disk and cut a new valley with a carbide burr die grinder in the aluminum where you just welded. Then try welding it again. There shouldn’t be as much junk that surfaces and your weld should come out much better. The gasses from all the exposed junk could possible displace your shielding gas and spoil the tungsten if the cast aluminum is bad enough. The key is to be patient.
I once grabbed a nice looking piece of aluminum out of the scrap hopper at my job and put it aside with my aluminum. Sometime later I tried to use it for something I was making and needed to weld it. I started arcing and heating it up and was amazed by all of the oil that began to pour out of it. Like stepping on a soaked sponge. Apparently it used to be part of some oily machine.
Hermano la soldadura tig en aluminio es mas conocida de lo que crees, en primer lugar el proceso GTAW (tig) es un proceso que genera alta radiación y eso a la piel no tienes idea como la daña, te recomiendo utilizar ambos guantes de seguridad, en segundo el aluminio no se pule con la rueda de alambre, te recomiendo lijarlo con hoja de lija de papel punto fino de no ser así contaminas el aluminio . tercero el bisel que usaste es deficiente, usa un bisel en V y de preferencia por ambos lados ya que tu soldadura mostro falta de penetración, tampoco debiste usar el pulsado debido a eso no generaste la penetración ni el calor adecuado y tu soldadura se vuelve frágil ante cargas de tensión o doblez, el material de aporte usado igual esta mal debiste usar una barilla de aporte de aluminio ya que con ese aporte erróneo vuelve tu soldadura aun mas decadente y probablemente debes de tener demasiadas discontinuidades a parte de la falta de fusión, en internet existen bastantes cursos puedes aprovecharlos y mejorar, no lo tomes como hate solo que mucha gente que ve estos vídeos no saben mucho de soldadura y creen que la forma empleada esta correcta, mejor no malinformar a la gente, veo que mucha gente te corregio en los comentarios y es porque cometiste muchos errores, espero mi comentario sea de ayuda para mejorar
Güzel işçilikle birlikte doğru uygulama,doğru malzeme tercihleri ve ustamızın işine hakimiyeti izleme hazzı veriyor.Teşekkür ediyoruz. Argon kaynağı üzerine ialüminyum pencere imalatında istenilen randıman alınmaması karşısında argon kaynak makineleri kızağa çekildi.Kullanan ustaların ilk defa bu tip kaynakla karşılaşması,alışması zaman alması ayrı bir sıkıntı olmasına rağmen asıl sorun.Alümnyum doğrama profillerinin piyasada kullanılan standardı 1,2mm.kalınlıkta olması yapılan kaynak ne kadar iyi yapılmış olsada kaynak yerleri montaj esnasında,taşıma esnasında zaman zaman kaynak yerlerinde açılımlar oluyor.Geriye telafisi olmadığı için lastik takozlarla düzeltme anlık oluyor.Kendi adıma her zaman savunduğum tek konu yapılan işle ilgili bilgi donanımı ve tecrübeleri olan arkadaşlarımızın ellerinden bu ve benzeri uygulamalar çıkmalı.Onlara teslim edilmelidir.Ticari bakılan sektörlerde genelde ''Yaptım.Oldu.''düşüncesi hakim.Ancak,kimse,sonucların bıraktığı zararı kendi hatası diye üzerine almıyor.Bu nedenle,sizlerin ve diğer arkadaşlarımızın paylaşımları takdire değer olduğuna inanıyor,takibi sağlamaya çalışıyoruz.Genç usta ve girişimci arkadaşlarımız bildiğini zannetmekten vazgeçip,bilmediği konuları yakalamaları bu tarz videoları izlemekten geçtiğini bilmelidirler.Saygılar sunuyorum.
Kuli Teknik....mohon dibaca dan di mengertikan komen si "General" sangat mendidik cara handle alumunium....komen2 lainnya jg sangat baik unt dimengerti. Banyak komentar dibuat oleh welder2 berpengalaman disini khususnya hal nyambungin aluminium....intinya kenali dulu bahan yg anda mo kerjakan bukan asal nyambung. Alumunium tdk berkarat jd hasil pekerjaan pada alumunium jg musti tdk boleh ntinya berkarat...bila anda mau belajar dan meningkatkan pengetahuan ngelas alumunium baca dan coba mengerti masukan2 dari koment2 disini...sangat membantu...selamat memperdalam ilmu!!!
Aluminium welding need AC tig with argon gas, use anything you got to clean the part, but has to used stainless steel brush to removed/clean oxidized from part before welding, aluminium easy/fast to oxidize. You can used same material alloy but the material must be clean (better buy aluminium welding rod). I understand not everybody had money or resources.
dc on aluminum is going to be tough to get a decent weld and is only really used to get better penetration on thick aluminum. It is not something that is easy to do and will probably look like crap. If your going to attempt it you should probably have a lot of experience and be proficient at ac tig first. You should have ac to Gtaw aluminum this creates a much cleaner and better weld. a 110 volt tig would not have enough amperage to puddle the aluminum unless it was really thin. To weld 1/4" thick aluminum your going to need a minimum of 200 amps. Aluminum is mig welded with dc but doesn't really work well without a spool gun or push/pull setup like a cobra.
oui courant alternatif soudage impossible en DC pour l alu et alliages pour ce type de piece il est préférable de prendre une baguette passe partout de l AG5 aurait été préférable dans ce cas précis pour savoir approximativement la nuance c est au son jettez la piece par terre si bruit sourd alu pur si mettalique alliage apres c est de l expérience
Depending on the quality of the aluminium casting cos some parts are cast from incredible junk and difficult to produce solid clean welds all through. A little preheat goes a long way to attain proper fusion . A Filler rod with med - higher silicone value is preferable
В 2000 работал в автосервисе. Аргон стоил бешеных денег. Так вот дядя Ваня сварщик варил трещины на алюминиевых поддонах ацетиленом. Ложил поддон на асбест нагревал метал горелкой до состояния когда тот становился жидким но еще не растекался и быстро обычной отверткой перемешивал трещину. При этом метал не успевал покрыться окисью и надежно застывал. Течей не было
I would recommend using a carbide burr rather than a cutting disc to prepare the weld area. It is more controllable and will not leave any residue or contamination as a cutting disc will. I like how you used aluminum wire (1100 alloy) as your filler material. However, it is likely that your weld will be significantly weaker than the parent metal. Your casting is likely to be a silicon based aluminum alloy, essentially a 6xxx. But I suppose in a pinch what you did will work. What is the part from?
Why is everybody forgetting to chamfer or grind the edges at a 45 degree angle. And use 4043 filler rod for cast aluminum. Pre-heat is good if you don't want it to crack.
This is far from best practice. For starters don't use abrasive wheels prior to welding as they impregnate the aluminium and cause porosity (at best). Use carbide tools (or similar). The filler wire should not be from alloy core electrical conductor as it will have incorrect chemical constitution and mechanical properties. Clamp the thing down. Ideally use the other side as a jig if it is a mirror image to ensure the holes remain spacilly correctly.
Why is everybody forgetting to chamfer or grind the edges at a 45 degree angle. And use 4043 filler rod for cast aluminum. Pre-heat is good if you don't want it to crack.
@@artizan6176 Потому,как в промышленности применяется (в основном ) два типа сплавов алюминия -гнутый и литой(есть ещё АМЦ -но в малой доли) .Так вот в этих сплавах присутствует либо кремний (силумин) ,либо магний (дюраль) ,либо (в редких сплавах ) цинк .И вот по этой причине и необходимы соответствующие электроды для каждого сплава.Электрохимический алюминий .является ,,чистым) и не имеет данных присадок.
What alloy is the base metal? Is it a weldable grade of aluminum? What alloy filler metal is compatible and best suited with this alloy of aluminum? Was the part originally heat treated? Some of the questions people welding aluminum should consider. When you are fixing a component with structural significance and dip the tungsten, you should stop immediately and cut off the contaminated part. And at least final joint preparation should be done with a burr bit, file, saw blade, or equivalent, not an abrasive wheel. Using a "lay wire" technique rather than dipping the filler metal when welding anything other than the thinnest aluminum is a recipe for incomplete fusion, especially when doing a groove weld.
hubiese sido mejor viselar o hacer chaflan ambas piezas,luego apuntalar y comenzae a soldar en el interior o la parte de atraz,una vez soldado esmerilar toda la penetracion,luego comenzar a soldar por la 1era cara ,al soldar de esta manera estas uniendo ambas piezas ,de la manera como as soldado k garantizas que va durar la pieza soldada.
Во первых разделку делают фрезами, ни в коем случае не абразивом. Во вторых проводами варят только электротехнический алюминий. И желательно усиления шва не снимать. Тоесьть видео на лоха, и для лохов. Ребята не ведитесь на всякое говно
Ну нащьот усиления шва могу поспорить єсли варить присадкой и сварщик уверен у своєй роботе тогда никакого усиления не надо а єсли сварщик при...ал а не приварил то и усиления не дайот гарантии .
Who can help this guy make a proper repair, TIG or not? The misalignment between both parts is alarming, in addition to behing well hidden after cleaning. And the TIG technic is very poor and will certainly result in decreased mechanical strength and further failure. Sorry to say but I hope not too many viewers will be inspired by this terrible demonstration.
Bang on As you say poor cleanliness. No bevel edges. No preheat. Also cast ally parts are notoriously made of the cheapest aluminium mixes so you never know the type of ally your dealing with. They tend to have serious porosity and once the black inclusions come to the surface it's nearly impossible to fuse the filler wire
Not all tig welding machines can weld aluminium, you need an ac inverter. The constant polarity fluctuations is what stabilizes the temp. of the aluminium pool when welding. Aluminium melting point is lower then the aluminium oxide on the surface, hence the need for temp control. Or, spend big and get synergic mig for aluminium welding, you can't go wrong.
I think you may have long forgotten about different aluminum alloys and how that crack might reappear after a few months. Also the long forgotten tool the dremel.
As a welder who specializes in marine grade aluminum/ stainless, this was painful to watch. Don’t use a cut off wheel to weld prep aluminum. It will leave contaminates on the base metal. Best to use a metal blade if you have to prep your weld after the tack. I understand why you didn’t want to weld prep before the repair, because it willl mess with your fit up, but a good fabricator would clamp to a stiff back and get the same fit up and have weld prep before you put the fracture back together… if it held then that’s all that matters, but I’d ol be surprised because the base metal at the root of the weld was contaminated. But hey, what do I know I’m just a random commenter on the internet!
You seem rather knowledgeable to me young man.
Sir, I confirm what you said. There is tiny particles that transfers from the cutting disc to the workpiece.
the rusty wire brush was the BEST :)
A question I'd like to ask about the metal wheel you are referring to how would I describe it if I wanted to purchase one from the store?
@@shuhadloofer7192 a cut off blade/wheel for a angle grinder...there are many types depends on what you are doing..even ones to cut glass
Сам имею мастерскую, в основном сварка в среде аргона.
Когда увидел проволоку...)))
Безмерно благодарен таким " мастерам"!!! Потому что ценник на переделку их кроилова, плюс 200%. 😊
А я дурак ак5 покупаю, оказывается че нашел тем и вари 😅
1.2 млн просмотров, да ему похер как оно там сварено😅
Да сам недавно взял tig сварочный, но то как он варит это срань полная😮
@@АлександрИванов-н2о7д завидую, что он кривыми руками на ютубе больше зарабатывает, чем я варю
@@Sivojar тут ещё "рояль в кустах" - он варит портачкой- первичкой от мотора компрессора холодильника! Просто это "выстрелит" позже.А потом покажет "сварку дерева берёзовыми электродами"...хуле,уровень просмотров позволяет.И ведь кого то устраивает,кто то этим пользуется...шарлатан от Дьявола!
Этот способ мало кто знает, это точно, потому что так делают только когда совсем нечем работать. Профессионалы всегда имеют в арсенале присадочные прутки нужного сплава, а также пользуются для обработки борфрезами, так как любой образив загрязняет алюминий и ухудшает прочность сварочного шва.
Не пали контору, о нормальных методах сварки мало кто знает)
Пусть сидит и дальше страдает херней
Потому что состав алюминия разный
Если провод похож на пруток, то не означает что можно им паять
Это как пластик абс и пет
@@Bravo125 согласен
Добавлю, что снял усиление шва в этом месте, на сколько видно под детали оно совсем не должно мешать. Хорошо, допустим что мешает, тогда с внутренней стороны должно быть усилено согласно направлению нагрузки, которую должна испытывать рама. Разлделка кромок вообще от фонаря. Вертикальный шов накладывается сверху вниз.
Не стреляйте в пианиста-он играет как умеет. Нет сквозного провара.просто декоративное поверхностное соединение двух обломков. Прямое назначение-повесить на гвоздик на стенку как пособие что так варить нельзя. Тем более устанавливать эту деталь после такой сварки на моциль опасно для жизни. Ну если только для "лучшего" друга то можно. Но в таком случае нужно менять пароли и явки что бы не притянули по статье.
@@moryak19845шоф сварки алюминия нельзя вровень шлифовать, чтоб не видно было, что деталь сварена была?
THANK YOU for making your video. Please take an old man's advice, for the next time you do a repair that way. Use a dremel and an end-mill bit, on the inside, and wear your sealed goggles and hollow a wide V-groove on the inside of the part. DO NOT use a wire wheel. Use a fine sandpaper lap sanding wheel, on your grinder, for the outside. Clean the area really good. Secure the part so it's bent the directions it wants to lay, for the fit. Try it back on the equipment it's for, if possible. Make SURE it fits! tack it outside then inside, and stagger the tacks inside and out. That way it wont pull more one way than the other.Have your tig ready to use. Crank up your oxy/actlyn torch to a medium flame and heat the whole part up so you can't touch it. THEN...weld it INSIDE !!!put a lot of filler rod inside. You're NOT going to grind it off. Then, on the outside, lay a stack of dimes, by melting in the surface of the metal, feed in the filler rod, come across it and back up, over and over again, never cutting off your power, and DON'T use "Pulse or Stitch" and a lay a pretty bead, nice and wide, and DON'T grind it off!!!!!! You remove MOST of your strength when you do! Let it air cool. Then crank up your torch again and have a medium flame and heat the whole part up again. This helps relieve the internal stresses of the metal. I've been told it's like a tug of war inside, between the two pieces and the annealing action, kills all of that! DO NOT grind the weld smooth ! !!!!!!! It will last a long time, this way. Let it cool till room temperature. NEVER DIP in quench tank of water! heat it up about 100 degrees and shoot it with Rust-Oleum XX2 paint. It won't corrode that way, (and aluminum is bad to do that). Also, make darn sure the material isn't MAGNESIUM, or you'll be welding a FIRE-STICK !
how to detect, it is not a magnesium alloy ? sometimes it is not possible to have information about the origins of the part... 😞
Thanks for Teaching us Master
@@robertuhrikpersonal Magnesium emits a bluish hue when tig welding.
@General Not so. Magnesium will not ignite in solid form. Only in a granulated or shaved state. And of course use magnesium electrode rod to weld magnesium, even though certain aluminum rods can be used to weld magnesium, depending on the circumstances.
Wire brush on Aluminum needs be Stainless not steel, steel adds carbon back into the aluminum and contaminates it silly..
Experienced welders, especially TIG welders know about welding aluminum. No secret or time forgotten trick or hack. That's why aluminum welding rods have been available for decades.
Found mig welding aluminum easy once plants set up for the weld
@nounoufriend1442 TIG is an electric torch. No flux is needed with the inert gas.
@@madog1 I know , we used Argon at work for TIG welding stainless , but I haven't used tig for alloy though . MIG also uses argon but MAG (for steel ) tends to use Argon Co2 mix (not an inert gas ) . No flux is used for MIG MAG or TIG as they rely on gas shield
The real secret in TIG welding aluminum is using DC straight polarity, using red 2 percent tungsten and pure Helium. It's used to weld small brackets to one or two inch plate. You will have black soot on the weld, but it's easily cleaned off with a stainless wire brush. I only use an old transformer machine where I work. Learned it from an old timer in 1976.
@@nounoufriend1442All metals are weldable with TIG, except zinc which is the plating used on galvanized steel. The short list: steel, aluminum, stainless, copper, brass and titanium. And for TIG welding you can only use Argon or a mix of Argon and Helium. No Argon/CO2 for TIG. Try some MIG ?, spray arc using Argon with 2 percent Oxygen. I never learned the term MAG, you'll see the question mark. I'm just an old timer.
i agree with the comments criticyzing the methods of welding preparation. as an welder certified for aircraft welding, i would add that it is not advisable to grind the weld after it was finished. knowledge of the type of alloy and the right welding rod material is important. some aluminium materials are not weldable and if weldable, the mechanical strenght may be poor after welding
I like to criticize spelling
I'm agree with you. If it is not obstacle to other components, better not to grind.
@@anonymous-tn6ijIt's called being a spelling na - z i . You gots to be more pacific I donts knew what yews talkin bout. The weld is supposed to be chamfered first or the edge ground at a 45 degree angle. There's no space for the weld to sleep in, it do not want to sit on top. It's a third world hack trick, pay no attention.
My dear friend, I have been welding aluminium for over 30 years, you have done some things that disqualify you from the start, the first thing is that you weld a part that is subjected to some force, with current wire as an additive material is embarrassing. The alloying elements in that wire are not exactly compatible with that piece. second thing, to polish the weld bead is not admissible and so the processing was done of poor quality, if you also erase the weld bead the resistance is minimal this piece can probably only be used to support flowers .the frequency on the alternating current is too low and the welding parameters (current) is at the lower limit and you can not have penetration into the material, so a disqualified weld . I salute you with respect.
i would get an actual welding wire to match the material prep everything by grinding it with wire brush wipe it with acetone or alcohol after grinding the edges ofc clamp it and start tacking one in the out and one in the inside so it wont bend and then grind the tacks a bit preheat and start welding i would do one inch outside and follow it with another in the inside after finishing every thing i will grind the weld with out grinding the piece that i m welding and then using send paper polish everything quick paint and job done (i have never welded anything in my life).
@@refl3xun_named684 Then what are you saying? You replay some enswer you've read from somebody gave in some commenting areas over the internet?..or what you even talk about this stuff in the first place?
Obviously a third world dude, so in that respect sort of OK. I agree with all of your points btw.
Where's your video then buddy
I am so happy that you just invented tig welding aluminum. You are going to revolutionize how the fabrication world functions. WTF?
Yeah, I was waiting for the "rarely known" part.
Actually DC straight polarity was used in early TIG welding aluminum. Why they missed out on AC I don't know.
Nice, a tip for you ; clamp one end of that cable piece in vice, the other end in a drill spin the drill while applying slight tension for a short while. It straightens the wire quickly and consistently straight.
Why wouldn't it twist it into a spiral and break it off?
@@Spiritof_76 Keep constant tension on the wire/filler and don't go crazy with the drill. You don't need to twist it much.
Forget the drill. Hold the that end with a vise grip. Put a little slack in the wire then give it a hard snap. Instant straight wire.
Yes sir...do it all the time..
just dont straighten cables to use as a welding wire, that is just silly
Надо было ещё изнутри канавку на стыке сделать, чтобы шов был толще для прочности...
у него, похоже, нет возможности там сделать канавку (шарожек нет)
I wouldn't use pulse for that thick material, i see lack of penetration because of that, wire wheel is also poor choice to clean up, best is sandpaper grinder disc but I guess it is all You have and you trying to survive in this world so good job my friend 😁
Good advise
Sandpaper grinder disk is the worst you can use, the sandpaper is glued and you dont want that shit in your weld
Looks like you have a shop, welding table, welding gloves, hood, TIG welder, shielding gas, power tools, abrasive disks...etc, but use cuttings of electric cable as filler rod?
It was all that he could steal
Always make sure Brush wheels are stainless steel for aluminum and never touched anything else besides aluminum Same for Wire brushes Stainless steel only and only touched aluminum only and use lots and lots of acetone and if you want preheat your metal aluminum cools 4x faster than carbon steel EDIT Also don't use low pulse no 1 PPS use 10 or 30 PPS and wait till the oxide layers burns off before adding filler and moving
He can weld better than you.
@@rsz90182 Sure that's why I make 50 a hour welding stainless steel Tig
@@rsz90182 do you troll even know what welding is anyway? Its with superglue.
This man is correct.
Exactly
Why is everybody forgetting to mention the parts have to be chamfered or grind the edges at a 45 degree angle. And use 4043 filler rod for cast aluminum. Pre-heat is good if you don't want it to crack. Clamp the parts down to a piece of 1/4 - 25mm thickness steel plate to keep the parts straight.
that is the way I would do it too. This is jungle welding anyway and he probably charged 25 cents for it.
@@bernardmauge8613 oui et il a gagné une fortune avec sa vidéo , presque 6 millons de vue , c'est juste ce qu'il avait besoin , sa soudure il n'en avait rien a faire ......
Thank you
This guy made videos for living not welding. And the way I see it, he's an Asian. No safety, working in workshop with casual shorts, using mig glove for Tig welding, no glove while holding torch...
Yup preheating is very important for welding aluminum with any degree of penetration and stability.
*"Without a doubt, the breakthrough for aluminum as a welded structural material occurred with the introduction in the 1940s of the inert gas welding processes."* Rarely known?!?! They have been teaching aluminum welding at a local HS for over a decade. Rarely known in the third world maybe.
Yes aluminum can be TIG welded with AC or DC. The original TIG was DC.
в данном видео показано как ни в коем случае не нужно варить алюминий
на сколько я понял это что то от мотоцикла, по опыту такое вообще обычно не варится))))
ไม่ผ่านแต่แก้ขัดได้
There right ,,but it will probably hold the way you did it ,,these guy are not being mean just trying to help you ,thank you for showing us the video I did it just like you did the first time I weld
@@CoHBe6etuyx Варится. Если марка Al не указана , то можно было бы на сайте производителя глянуть или на фан-форумах. Обычно на подобные кронштейны идут 6005 .6061 , или семёрка .Но скорее тут шестёрка , вон как пузырится от "присадки" из чистого алюминия..... Тут несколько нарушений. И скорее всего лопнет теперь по краю шва.
Так в заголовке написано, что это алюминий о котором мало кто знает. Может этот вид алюминия так варить можно.
Лайк за смелость! Но нужно было показать нагрузку на слом, ведь эта деталь имеет не маленькую нагрузку я так понимаю, а так этот вариант сварки имеет места , если больше нечем для не несущих нагрузку типа что-то то отремонтировать маскирующие или декоративные элементы, которые , если сломаются, то не нанесут увечий пользователю!!!! Спасибо!
*No deep penetration. That needed to be ground to a wide V on both sides at the break, then welded from the inside to the outside in order to be a structurally sound weld.*
Agreed, it will just break again.
@@barrykruyssen by that time he has sold the motorcycle to someone.
Not to mentioned the 100% contaminated surfaces from using a steel wire wheel! Sure, it's POSSIBLE it was stainless, but... probably not. ;)
Done MIG alloy welding you should see weld pool nearly coming through to back of weld for correct penetration , our test welds were cut to check penetration
@@justthinkalittle8913 or crashed when it fails.....
A fine job of sanding but not such a good job welding. Lots of contamination and porosity in the weld and no penetration on the weld on the inside of the piece. Buffing with a wire wheel before welding often imbeds impurities into the base material and the constant sticking of the tungsten also makes for contamination of the weld. Probably not a good idea to use electrical wire for filler but if that is all you have it has to do.
a gree
Talking is free from work.
@@Tiger-hp9nq everything said above is very correct. I would never disrespect good advise and criticism. This is coming from a man that has been welding aluminium for over thirty years
It held together. It’s good enough.
Guess I should not be a keyboard critic and suggest how I would do that repair. So, If I was to do that repair at our shop I would clean the weld area thoroughly then groove the backside with a carbide burring tool to prevent any contamination of the base metal from the adhesives that hold the grinding wheel together. That also lets me use the original break line on the front to get everything back into correct alignment. I would then weld the backside getting good penetration of the joint. Hopefully I would have the correct filler material. Basically we use 4043 for cast aluminum and 5356 for forged aluminums , but if electrical wire is all that is available use it, I have done some oxy acetylene repairs using wire coat hangers when I was young. I would then groove out the front of the seam all the way into the existing weld on the inside and weld the outside groove getting 100% penetration on the repair making sure to get good starts and stops at the edges of the piece. Yes I have done this type of repair many times.
Cast parts like this are typically 3000, 4000, or 7000 series aluminum, which is about 95% aluminum. Power cable is 1350-H19 is nearly pure aluminum (99.5%) making it an excellent conductor. While 1000 series isn't the best choice for filler material (lower strength, increased risk of cracking when welding other series), it would work in a pinch if you are not trying to achieve structural strength.
It is definitely an interesting thought experiment what other materials could be used in a pinch if you are out of 4000 series filler rods.
Welding seam argon welding is carried out strictly according to the technology of laying the seam from the bottom up, so starting to weld a detail from the bottom metal is sealed without forming pores (if you weld a detail from the top down the metal will flow down and not formed a dense weld metal to the details) pipe argon welding under the scheme with a clock round dial, from 06:00 to 09:00 then from 07:00 to 15:00 then from 09:00 to 12:00 from 15:00 to 11:00 argon weld lay perfectly if the current is selected . ( The rolled seam is never peeled off ! It is forbidden !)
😅
That's fine and dandy but the grinding is what needs work, he messed the profile up badly by not going slow and taking care....... very sloppy
On behalf of the audience, thank you for giving a very important secret about pipe welding technique.
Well that's not might welding so the technique is totally different anyway
GREAT JOB! is the weld structurally sound? i am no welder or fabricator but i am amazed. guess there's different ways to do the same thing but i learned a lot..
It was done half @$$'d. 1st it wasn't cleaned correctly, then he didn't clamp down once fitted up then he didn't cut a gap along the break to get penetration.
@@grege2383 thanks... looked great when finished but durability/ safety is the question.
@@spike7703 - no way it should be trusted.
@@grege2383 is that part a frame support?
The parts have to have the edges ground at a 45 degree angle to start. And use the proper filler rod.
Mantap betul las nya rapih padet, kuat, aluminium gas argon.
Semoga awet sampai hari akhir.
Is pre heating required ? Plus a jig to assure the alinement of connection holes
Yeah, always preheat cast metals.
Also aneal it after, just in case.
We could criticize it but not bad the first thing is to wire brush with a stainless brush then a good bevel jig it up pre heat with a rose but to at least 250 to 300° tack it up and bolt it down begin to weld then put a welding blanket over it or bury in sand to cool evenly
You are quite good with your hands 👏❤
Согласен с профиками, недостаточная выработка под сварной шов в начале, и лишнее стачивание сварноно шва в конце. Недостаток первого должно компесироваться вторым, а здесь недостаток первого и недостаток второго.
так он силумин сваривает проводом алюминиевым. делает это в импульсе. использует вместо фрез отрезной диск. это для недалëких видео.
Welding cast aluminum can be tricky. There’s often a bunch of junk in the casting that can make welding it a real pain. The junk spits and spatters, and makes these bubbly hollow voids in the weld that have to be chased out and replaced with fresh aluminum rod. And this is where it gets tricky. The key is to be patient and displace the junk while adding fresh metal without making the weld pool too large and to take multiple passes. More often than not, the weld will fight you the whole way and you’ve got to remember to get carried away and not be tempted to keep chasing the junk. If you do that, you are only going to expose even more junk. The first weld is usually going to look kinda crappy with voids and other impurities that surfaces. When this happens, simply grind off the junk with a disk and cut a new valley with a carbide burr die grinder in the aluminum where you just welded. Then try welding it again. There shouldn’t be as much junk that surfaces and your weld should come out much better. The gasses from all the exposed junk could possible displace your shielding gas and spoil the tungsten if the cast aluminum is bad enough. The key is to be patient.
I once grabbed a nice looking piece of aluminum out of the scrap hopper at my job and put it aside with my aluminum. Sometime later I tried to use it for something I was making and needed to weld it.
I started arcing and heating it up and was amazed by all of the oil that began to pour out of it. Like stepping on a soaked sponge.
Apparently it used to be part of some oily machine.
Nice job...
Низкий поклон автору ролика , теперь это бренное человечество узнает , как варить алюминий !!!
Excellent job! Thank you for sharing it with us.
Not excellent for someone who has knowledgement about welding .
Gotta love the 2-0 aluminum electrical power cable for welding rod.
It's almost like someone did this in the backwoods of India.....
Oh, wait....
Os grandes profissionais são aqueles que estão sempre buscando ideias com crescimento profissional 😂😂
Looks good. Not sure why everyone has a critique on the work. It's a bike peg bracket that works again. Good work.
for how long with all the electrode dips into the puddle
@@willardlentz3044 probably forever. It was a cheap cast aluminum part before. It's likely much cleaner internally now where the weld is.
Hermano la soldadura tig en aluminio es mas conocida de lo que crees, en primer lugar el proceso GTAW (tig) es un proceso que genera alta radiación y eso a la piel no tienes idea como la daña, te recomiendo utilizar ambos guantes de seguridad, en segundo el aluminio no se pule con la rueda de alambre, te recomiendo lijarlo con hoja de lija de papel punto fino de no ser así contaminas el aluminio . tercero el bisel que usaste es deficiente, usa un bisel en V y de preferencia por ambos lados ya que tu soldadura mostro falta de penetración, tampoco debiste usar el pulsado debido a eso no generaste la penetración ni el calor adecuado y tu soldadura se vuelve frágil ante cargas de tensión o doblez, el material de aporte usado igual esta mal debiste usar una barilla de aporte de aluminio ya que con ese aporte erróneo vuelve tu soldadura aun mas decadente y probablemente debes de tener demasiadas discontinuidades a parte de la falta de fusión, en internet existen bastantes cursos puedes aprovecharlos y mejorar, no lo tomes como hate solo que mucha gente que ve estos vídeos no saben mucho de soldadura y creen que la forma empleada esta correcta, mejor no malinformar a la gente, veo que mucha gente te corregio en los comentarios y es porque cometiste muchos errores, espero mi comentario sea de ayuda para mejorar
Toda la razón, son algo que añadir a lo que has dicho, el fondo del chaflán a de ser curvo para liberal tensiones.. Saludos
نعم اتفق معك ،وحسن نيتك التي تكلمت بها جعلتني استفيد ،انا كلحام ألومنيوم، شكرا صديقي .
Haaa....cara millaneal....tutor bermanfaat.....matur suwon kang kuli : sehat, rukun & bejo.
voce pode comentar mais sobra sua maquina de solda e muito bom seus videos!
A lot of people complaining but the repair looks fine to me
ESTAMOS COM VOCÊ GUSTAVO ,PARA O QUE DER E VIER 💪💪💪💪💪💪🇧🇷🇧🇷🇧🇷🇧🇷
fala parceiro, blz ? que solda é essa ? esse bico. Estou aprendendo, e já gostei.
He did great, all he needed to do was use some acetone before and after cleaning up the aluminum
Me da gusto que explicas paso a paso que materiales utilizas, cómo se hace y cuánto cuesta... Que puedo decir, tienes el don de la palabra
Ишинде алюминиевый шов жок сыны кетеды😅
Я согласен что никто не знает чтоб варить алюминий надо иметь ТИГ аппарат. А ваще я думал видео об маникюре!
при виде ногтей забыл о сварке, побежал блевануть (простите)
Hallo mas, thanks videonya.
Btw, dmn beli mesin las alumunium yg bisa 3 in 1? Atau 4 in 1 ya?
Güzel işçilikle birlikte doğru uygulama,doğru malzeme tercihleri ve ustamızın işine hakimiyeti izleme hazzı veriyor.Teşekkür ediyoruz.
Argon kaynağı üzerine ialüminyum pencere imalatında istenilen randıman alınmaması karşısında argon kaynak makineleri kızağa çekildi.Kullanan ustaların ilk defa bu tip kaynakla karşılaşması,alışması zaman alması ayrı bir sıkıntı olmasına rağmen asıl sorun.Alümnyum doğrama profillerinin piyasada kullanılan standardı 1,2mm.kalınlıkta olması yapılan kaynak ne kadar iyi yapılmış olsada kaynak yerleri montaj esnasında,taşıma esnasında zaman zaman kaynak yerlerinde açılımlar oluyor.Geriye telafisi olmadığı için lastik takozlarla düzeltme anlık oluyor.Kendi adıma her zaman savunduğum tek konu yapılan işle ilgili bilgi donanımı ve tecrübeleri olan arkadaşlarımızın ellerinden bu ve benzeri uygulamalar çıkmalı.Onlara teslim edilmelidir.Ticari bakılan sektörlerde genelde ''Yaptım.Oldu.''düşüncesi hakim.Ancak,kimse,sonucların bıraktığı zararı kendi hatası diye üzerine almıyor.Bu nedenle,sizlerin ve diğer arkadaşlarımızın paylaşımları takdire değer olduğuna inanıyor,takibi sağlamaya çalışıyoruz.Genç usta ve girişimci arkadaşlarımız bildiğini zannetmekten vazgeçip,bilmediği konuları yakalamaları bu tarz videoları izlemekten geçtiğini bilmelidirler.Saygılar sunuyorum.
Owalahh pake kanel plN ternyataaaa gak pernah kebayang sebelumnya.. mantapp ilmunya joozzz 👍👍👍👍😂
Exelente falto ver a que amperaje trabajaste
Kuli Teknik....mohon dibaca dan di mengertikan komen si "General" sangat mendidik cara handle alumunium....komen2 lainnya jg sangat baik unt dimengerti. Banyak komentar dibuat oleh welder2 berpengalaman disini khususnya hal nyambungin aluminium....intinya kenali dulu bahan yg anda mo kerjakan bukan asal nyambung. Alumunium tdk berkarat jd hasil pekerjaan pada alumunium jg musti tdk boleh ntinya berkarat...bila anda mau belajar dan meningkatkan pengetahuan ngelas alumunium baca dan coba mengerti masukan2 dari koment2 disini...sangat membantu...selamat memperdalam ilmu!!!
*Still AC tig? Or can I do this with 110v DC tig? How do I know Alum from wire is same material as alloy from moto part?*
Aluminium welding need AC tig with argon gas, use anything you got to clean the part, but has to used stainless steel brush to removed/clean oxidized from part before welding, aluminium easy/fast to oxidize. You can used same material alloy but the material must be clean (better buy aluminium welding rod). I understand not everybody had money or resources.
To dc tig weld aluminum you need pure helium for your shielding gas, kind of expensive but dc tig aluminum is doable.
dc on aluminum is going to be tough to get a decent weld and is only really used to get better penetration on thick aluminum. It is not something that is easy to do and will probably look like crap. If your going to attempt it you should probably have a lot of experience and be proficient at ac tig first. You should have ac to Gtaw aluminum this creates a much cleaner and better weld. a 110 volt tig would not have enough amperage to puddle the aluminum unless it was really thin. To weld 1/4" thick aluminum your going to need a minimum of 200 amps. Aluminum is mig welded with dc but doesn't really work well without a spool gun or push/pull setup like a cobra.
@@mohammadnoormauludadnan1847 pas de brosse inox pour l alu mais brosse laiton
oui courant alternatif soudage impossible en DC pour l alu et alliages pour ce type de piece il est préférable de prendre une baguette passe partout de l AG5 aurait été préférable dans ce cas précis pour savoir approximativement la nuance c est au son jettez la piece par terre si bruit sourd alu pur si mettalique alliage apres c est de l expérience
Je ne savais pas que l'on pouvait prendre du cable alu en métal d'apport! Super!
Его и нельзя брать)
For a truly structural part you should look into cleaning the parts with an acid wash . The wire wheel will imbed impurities. Good way to adapt though
Any kind of cleaner is better than not using nothing to clean
@@RogerHouston-dc9fk not if it is adding impurities to the base material
I'll be sure to share your video with Kurtis at Cutting Edge Technology & IC Welding to make sure they know this too!
Depending on the quality of the aluminium casting cos some parts are cast from incredible junk and difficult to produce solid clean welds all through. A little preheat goes a long way to attain proper fusion . A Filler rod with med - higher silicone value is preferable
В 2000 работал в автосервисе. Аргон стоил бешеных денег. Так вот дядя Ваня сварщик варил трещины на алюминиевых поддонах ацетиленом. Ложил поддон на асбест нагревал метал горелкой до состояния когда тот становился жидким но еще не растекался и быстро обычной отверткой перемешивал трещину. При этом метал не успевал покрыться окисью и надежно застывал. Течей не было
Аргон и сейчас не дешевый.
Why the pulse setting? Not necessary at all. Just weld normally without pulse: it's a thick piece.
I would recommend using a carbide burr rather than a cutting disc to prepare the weld area. It is more controllable and will not leave any residue or contamination as a cutting disc will. I like how you used aluminum wire (1100 alloy) as your filler material. However, it is likely that your weld will be significantly weaker than the parent metal. Your casting is likely to be a silicon based aluminum alloy, essentially a 6xxx. But I suppose in a pinch what you did will work. What is the part from?
Why is everybody forgetting to chamfer or grind the edges at a 45 degree angle. And use 4043 filler rod for cast aluminum. Pre-heat is good if you don't want it to crack.
@@georgebuck2269 well, this is in Indonesia. They do things differently there.
This is far from best practice. For starters don't use abrasive wheels prior to welding as they impregnate the aluminium and cause porosity (at best). Use carbide tools (or similar). The filler wire should not be from alloy core electrical conductor as it will have incorrect chemical constitution and mechanical properties. Clamp the thing down. Ideally use the other side as a jig if it is a mirror image to ensure the holes remain spacilly correctly.
Why is everybody forgetting to chamfer or grind the edges at a 45 degree angle. And use 4043 filler rod for cast aluminum. Pre-heat is good if you don't want it to crack.
What machine are you using??? What are your settings????? Is that aluminum stranded cable??? to
Электротехнический алюминий не применяется в сварке Tig.
А почему? Если заполнение вмятин, а не сварка стыков? Просто интересно)
@@artizan6176 Потому,как в промышленности применяется (в основном ) два типа сплавов алюминия -гнутый и литой(есть ещё АМЦ -но в малой доли) .Так вот в этих сплавах присутствует либо кремний (силумин) ,либо магний (дюраль) ,либо (в редких сплавах ) цинк .И вот по этой причине и необходимы соответствующие электроды для каждого сплава.Электрохимический алюминий .является ,,чистым) и не имеет данных присадок.
What alloy is the base metal? Is it a weldable grade of aluminum? What alloy filler metal is compatible and best suited with this alloy of aluminum? Was the part originally heat treated? Some of the questions people welding aluminum should consider.
When you are fixing a component with structural significance and dip the tungsten, you should stop immediately and cut off the contaminated part. And at least final joint preparation should be done with a burr bit, file, saw blade, or equivalent, not an abrasive wheel.
Using a "lay wire" technique rather than dipping the filler metal when welding anything other than the thinnest aluminum is a recipe for incomplete fusion, especially when doing a groove weld.
Formidável...
Obrigado por compartilhar...
Hadir nyimak boss ku suksesselalu buatbossku 👍👍👍💪💪💪
hubiese sido mejor viselar o hacer chaflan ambas piezas,luego apuntalar y comenzae a soldar en el interior o la parte de atraz,una vez soldado esmerilar toda la penetracion,luego comenzar a soldar por la 1era cara ,al soldar de esta manera estas uniendo ambas piezas ,de la manera como as soldado k garantizas que va durar la pieza soldada.
Hi Idol have a good day watching Philppines. Nice idea idol!
Ficou muito bom
excelente trabalho grato!
I imagine Dusty from Pacific arc tig welding is going into shock after watching this cluster
Terimakasih anda telah berbagi ilmu yg bermanfaat... 👍👍
Muito boa a solda! Bealtffull
He's actually a good welder
Во первых разделку делают фрезами, ни в коем случае не абразивом. Во вторых проводами варят только электротехнический алюминий. И желательно усиления шва не снимать. Тоесьть видео на лоха, и для лохов. Ребята не ведитесь на всякое говно
Тут вообще, если дословно воспринимать заголовок, то мало кто знает о существовании на свете алюминия... 😁
Так это что обычный инвертор тиг с аргоном что ли?
Ну нащьот усиления шва могу поспорить єсли варить присадкой и сварщик уверен у своєй роботе тогда никакого усиления не надо а єсли сварщик при...ал а не приварил то и усиления не дайот гарантии .
Проводами варить электротехнический алюминий, например что бывает такое??
Tig welding using aluminum is so easy my friend.. your welding it's not too god, it's look like beginner.
Muy buen trabajo hermano si sabes trabajar el aluminio saludos desde Indianápolis indiana
De donde? Le quedó más virada que al fijarla con los per nos para que selle , se volverá a quebrar.-
Криво, попробовал подровнять.... Махнул рукой А и так сойдет!
Who can help this guy make a proper repair, TIG or not? The misalignment between both parts is alarming, in addition to behing well hidden after cleaning. And the TIG technic is very poor and will certainly result in decreased mechanical strength and further failure. Sorry to say but I hope not too many viewers will be inspired by this terrible demonstration.
Bang on
As you say poor cleanliness.
No bevel edges.
No preheat.
Also cast ally parts are notoriously made of the cheapest aluminium mixes so you never know the type of ally your dealing with.
They tend to have serious porosity and once the black inclusions come to the surface it's nearly impossible to fuse the filler wire
Que máquina tienes?
Not all tig welding machines can weld aluminium, you need an ac inverter. The constant polarity fluctuations is what stabilizes the temp. of the aluminium pool when welding. Aluminium melting point is lower then the aluminium oxide on the surface, hence the need for temp control. Or, spend big and get synergic mig for aluminium welding, you can't go wrong.
Q tipo de gas estás usando mi estimado si se puede saber gracias
Argon 100%
As good as new ! - Well done - Great job !
What ever works . Thanks for the tip . You have to work with what you have sometimes .
the best part is the narration
Amigo excelente video soy novato¿qué tipo de máquina soldadora utilizas en el video ?
Nicest work 😢 can you tell me the name of this machine please
Hey, I saved a lot money by switching to gycho!!
Pekerjaan yang dilakukan oleh seorang yang sangat baik
Хорошо получилось!
No he leído los comentarios pero pregunto
Que usaste como fundente?
Done with you Idols with full support
Top jio nice very nice Kolkata very good very 🥇💓💐💐👌👍🏼🌻
san mo napulot yang filler mo master..isa kang alamat.heheheh
Aluminium joint welding is very great dengiorous thing. it's may not be as usual parts rather than iron welding.
the comments are mostly on point. idk what that part is, but looks like it is stressed in use, hope it holds up for you.
Alumínio sempre se solda na alternada👍🏼
Thank you for your vido.This is great.❤❤❤
La soldadora es para aluminio ? . Muy bueno el video 👍
Nice bro good job 👍🏻
I think you may have long forgotten about different aluminum alloys and how that crack might reappear after a few months. Also the long forgotten tool the dremel.
Felicitaciones amigo una pregunta que tipo de gases se puede usar para ese tipo de soldadura solo argón le agradezco información gracias
Для тиг сварки используются аргон , гелий или их смесь. Всё.
Saludos, En esa aplicación que tipo de gas estás usando, Gracias
Maaf mass mw nanya....pakai merk apa mesin lasssnya
Я вообще не шарю в сварке, но мне кажется шлифовать в конце это лишнее для этой детали, только прилегающую плоскость.