Oh my gosh you are a life saver! I have gotten into Latch Hook a few weeks ago but never knew what to do with the finished piece so I would just push it aside. I then decided to want to create a pillow out of it but didn't have a sewing machine and this video definitely helped! Thank you so much!
I’m very excited to have learned from you this method- I think it will help me with my projects. I am curious as to why you don’t use a blind stitch? Do you think it wouldn’t hold as well? Or if someone else has experience trying that, could you give me your opinion please?
Hi Gayla! This is a GREAT question and I look forward to hearing if anyone else has tried that stitch for this application. I have not tried it and am not 100% sure it would result in the linen being pulled tightly enough/covered completely on the final edge of the pillow seam, however...it might work too. I will eagerly await additional comments.
Thanks for this video. I am hoping to use my hooked project as a chair pad for a wicker chair. Could I use cotton batting to create a little cushioning instead of a pillow form?
Yes, I think you could. I think what I would do in that case, also, is perhaps put a few anchor stitches in to the batting on the top side to keep it from moving around - the stitch would be invisible from the top side because it would be down in the loops and just show on the back side of the batting. Then you could stitch your decorative back material on just as shown in the video, which would hide the batting and the anchor stitches keeping the batting from sliding or bunching around in there.
Hi Rue! Hopefully it helps to give an idea, but this is not latch hooking and the foundation I use is very different from a latch hooking foundation with the large grid, vs a linen fabric. This is traditional North American rug hooking, wool strips looped in to linen fabric, so finishing a latch hooked pillow could require a different technique.
When I go under the loops I'm not catching anything; just going under the loops and coming back up in between the next set, making a stitch, then underneath again. In other words, the thread is not weaving through on the underside, not the wool or the foundation. You're just making a stitch and then coming back up two loops later. I hope this makes sense!
Hi Beth! Thank you for posting this video, I learned so much! I do wonder if I can use this same technique for punch needle "pillows" or three dimensional pieces? Such as a stuffed kitty or pumpkin? Or small bowl fillers? I did one recently and used my sewing machine, wasn't really happy with the results. I'm going to give it a try. If you have any recommendations, let me know! Jan
I'm glad it was helpful! Yes, I do think you can use this with punch needle pillows for sure. I've never done a three dimensional piece but I think the same stitch would apply. I think the sewing machine just can't get close in enough to truly hide the linen, which leaves us with this time consuming, but effective, hand method.
For anything round, whether it's putting binding tape on a round chair pad or doing a round backing for a pillow, you need to add small pleats, evenly spaced, as you stitch around. I pin the pleats where I want them in advance and continually check for evenness as I stitch.
Brenda, it's just the same stitch on the last seam. You stitch three seams around leaving the bottom open, put the pillow form in to the interior, and then stitch the bottom shut. It's a little more challenging because now you have the bulky pillow form in there, but what I do is put a few pins along the edges to help hold it shut and also push the pillow form down a bit and out of the way of the stitching. You can always give it a little light punching once it's all sewn up to get the interior form evenly places.
If those work in your hand-sewing by all means use them. I find I can get the level of precision I want, especially if my backing has a pattern I need to really keep aligned (think plaids, stripes, etc), using traditional straight pins. My father was a master tailor who built his trade into what was, at the time, a nationally recognized clothing manufacturing company, so I've just always been around people sewing with steel straight pins as fasteners and was taught to use them. He would heartily disapprove, however, of the fact that I never use a thimble.
@@ParrisHouseWoolWorks you csn get the same précision with little pegs after all you sre removing them before you sew thst area snyway. And they hold things in place nicely right where you put them with no picking of fingers. Give it a try.
Nice instructional video. Thanks. It would have been perfect to see till you stuffed up the pillow and close it 😊
I love this video. I re-watch it every time I finish a pillow. Thanks so much!! ❤❤
You are so welcome!
One question. How wide do you leave before surging ?
Thank you so much for the directions
Diane in WV formally from ME !
I like your method of sewing with right sides out,it makes it so much easier to ensure linen hidden.Thanks
Thank you for this tutorial! I am working on my first hooked pillow and am.excited to finish it using this technique😀
Oh my gosh you are a life saver! I have gotten into Latch Hook a few weeks ago but never knew what to do with the finished piece so I would just push it aside. I then decided to want to create a pillow out of it but didn't have a sewing machine and this video definitely helped! Thank you so much!
❤❤❤❤❤❤thank you! I have a pile of projects that can finally get finished. Yay!
You're welcome! Get in touch if you have any questions as you go.
Very helpful! Thanks for creating this video!!!
Wow you really helped me on how to finish my latch hooking thank you
Great video. Thank you. I learned so much.
Thank you so much! This was very helpful!
Thank you so much for this lesson... It's amazing... I needed it!
Very informative. Thank you for sharing!
Thank you for watching!
Thank you for a great tutorial!
Have you ever added cording to your process to dress up the finished edge around the pillow. If so I was wondering how that would work.
I’m very excited to have learned from you this method- I think it will help me with my projects. I am curious as to why you don’t use a blind stitch? Do you think it wouldn’t hold as well? Or if someone else has experience trying that, could you give me your opinion please?
Hi Gayla! This is a GREAT question and I look forward to hearing if anyone else has tried that stitch for this application. I have not tried it and am not 100% sure it would result in the linen being pulled tightly enough/covered completely on the final edge of the pillow seam, however...it might work too. I will eagerly await additional comments.
Thanks for this video. I am hoping to use my hooked project as a chair pad for a wicker chair. Could I use cotton batting to create a little cushioning instead of a pillow form?
Yes, I think you could. I think what I would do in that case, also, is perhaps put a few anchor stitches in to the batting on the top side to keep it from moving around - the stitch would be invisible from the top side because it would be down in the loops and just show on the back side of the batting. Then you could stitch your decorative back material on just as shown in the video, which would hide the batting and the anchor stitches keeping the batting from sliding or bunching around in there.
Hi, new to latch hooking. I fell in live with it.
I wanna make pillows, but I cannot sew to save my life.
Hopefully this will help.
Hi Rue! Hopefully it helps to give an idea, but this is not latch hooking and the foundation I use is very different from a latch hooking foundation with the large grid, vs a linen fabric. This is traditional North American rug hooking, wool strips looped in to linen fabric, so finishing a latch hooked pillow could require a different technique.
Wondering if you are catching the wool when you got under two OR just the backing the two are hooked in. Thank you so much
When I go under the loops I'm not catching anything; just going under the loops and coming back up in between the next set, making a stitch, then underneath again. In other words, the thread is not weaving through on the underside, not the wool or the foundation. You're just making a stitch and then coming back up two loops later. I hope this makes sense!
@@ParrisHouseWoolWorks Yes Thank you so much!!! Just under the loops got it. Makes perfect sense.
Hi Beth! Thank you for posting this video, I learned so much! I do wonder if I can use this same technique for punch needle "pillows" or three dimensional pieces? Such as a stuffed kitty or pumpkin? Or small bowl fillers? I did one recently and used my sewing machine, wasn't really happy with the results. I'm going to give it a try. If you have any recommendations, let me know! Jan
I'm glad it was helpful! Yes, I do think you can use this with punch needle pillows for sure. I've never done a three dimensional piece but I think the same stitch would apply. I think the sewing machine just can't get close in enough to truly hide the linen, which leaves us with this time consuming, but effective, hand method.
How would this work for a round pillow
For anything round, whether it's putting binding tape on a round chair pad or doing a round backing for a pillow, you need to add small pleats, evenly spaced, as you stitch around. I pin the pleats where I want them in advance and continually check for evenness as I stitch.
This is great information, but you really need to hep us with the next step of finishing with the pillow form inside. PLEASE HELP!
Brenda, it's just the same stitch on the last seam. You stitch three seams around leaving the bottom open, put the pillow form in to the interior, and then stitch the bottom shut. It's a little more challenging because now you have the bulky pillow form in there, but what I do is put a few pins along the edges to help hold it shut and also push the pillow form down a bit and out of the way of the stitching. You can always give it a little light punching once it's all sewn up to get the interior form evenly places.
How about small clothes pegs much better
If those work in your hand-sewing by all means use them. I find I can get the level of precision I want, especially if my backing has a pattern I need to really keep aligned (think plaids, stripes, etc), using traditional straight pins. My father was a master tailor who built his trade into what was, at the time, a nationally recognized clothing manufacturing company, so I've just always been around people sewing with steel straight pins as fasteners and was taught to use them. He would heartily disapprove, however, of the fact that I never use a thimble.
@@ParrisHouseWoolWorks you csn get the same précision with little pegs after all you sre removing them before you sew thst area snyway. And they hold things in place nicely right where you put them with no picking of fingers. Give it a try.