Mike, Thank you ain't enough by half to say how appreciated your instructional videos are. My god... we'd all be poking in the dark without your videos.
Great video Mike, Picked up an 81 FXS made it 50 miles and it blew a head gasket, hauled it home, found your channel. Put it together and it went 3 miles and the primary exploded. Got it going again with your help. Needless to say this bike keeps me on your channel. Thanks for all your help. Just about got all the bugs worked out.
Thank you for making your videos informative. Brings me back to my apprenticeship days when I tried to soak up all the experience of the ole Skool journeymen. Everyone who wants to has the opportunity to learn from a Master Mechanic by watching your videos.
Recently went through this step by step on my '70 shovel. Clutch was "catching" and just becoming increasingly hard to ride. It's a foot clutch kick only so that was causing me headaches. After about an hour and a half of cleaning up my clutch and adjustments it was like someone had handed me a brand new bike. WOW what a difference. Just wanted to say thanks for the video it really helped me.
I would like to thank you sir because of your videos I have been able to successfully work on my newly acquired 71 shovel head. Thank you very much for your very informational videos And making them very simple to understand. Keep up the great work,thank you again sir
That was a great memory. I remember the first time I did that as an 18 yr. Old in the late sixty's. On my 52 pan. I didn't know about the washer. Man I had springs going everywhere. Funny. Now on my 75 shovel I have a wet primary with wet clutch plates. Installed them in 1992. They have been perfect. Thank you for the memory.
Gaining confidence and getting really excited to fix some things on the shovelhead this winter after watching your videos. Would love to see one on how to install a new clutch cable on a shovel sometime! Keep up the great videos
Thank you. You know it just has to do with the neighborhood you came from. And, we put steel roller skate wheels on the bottom of old 2X4's. Living at the foot of the mountains, was not necessarily a good thing. You know, I had to take the sidewalk down the mountain (just because it had a sharper turn than the street). All was good until Donna's (a little girl I went to school with) mother had left their garbage can out, right in the middle of that sidewalk. Yah the neighborhood was a gas. We all had childhoods. That "Big Wheel" must have been cool.
these old harley davidsons were engineered to run forever but they have to be maintained they will probably outlive us all so mikes advice on these old scooters is priceless
Now I know much more about my shovel dry clutch. Going to follow your procedure because the clutch is engaging VERY abruptly. Difficult to start off in 1st gear without the bike lunging forward, making stop signs and red lights interesting. Can't ride it like this. Hope the cleaning/sanding works. Great instruction, thanks for posting!
@@pacificmike9501 Mike, sorry one more question if you have time. I disassembled the clutch plates and the steels have no cushions? Why might this be? Gary
Thankyou so much! I’m in Brazil. I have a service manual for my Shovel but it doesn’t sow how would be replaced the clutch discs! You’re a hand in the wheel! (That’s our expression for a good help)
Hi Mr Greetings from Oaxaca Mexico, i was living in US fixing HDs, your patience is admirable, thanks for point the right matters with a correct information. Erik Cat's Garage Oaxaca.
Very detailed useful information that was explained like a collage professor. 2nd video I've watched and not only do I love them I appreciate the education. Thanks a bunch!
I'm a big fan of the Panheads and especially the Knuckleheads but I like the old school stuff personally! The old school stuff to me just have more class and character than new school! Cars, Trucks and Bikes! But good video man! I have a 82 Ironhead Sportster myself! Have had it since 92!
I've been having an issue with my clutch not wanting to go into first gear if I put it in neutral at a stoplight. It was working very well when I went to three-and-a-half disc clutch with my rocker pedal assembly. Lately I've been having problems with it going into first gear from neutral. It wants to grind the gears. I've got the clutch all apart and I'm cleaning everything up. I'm going to put it back together and try again that's why I'm watching your video. I wanted to make sure that I have enough play on the clutch pushrod arm. I have the same identical set up with inch and a half belt from BDL. Same pressure plate same releasing disc... I need to lock this video into memory.
I ride and wrench on a modern machine but these videos are really interesting...and fun to watch. Think I will sub up, and check out whatever you have coming next. Good job on the clear and concise instructions.
An old Harley mechanic I knew showed me how to clean oily fiber plates. He soaked them in aviation gas, which drew the oil out. Fiber looked light gray again and like new. Crazy stuff. Aviation gas is more refined than pump car gas.
Hey Mike, Nice video! I have a 76 FXE that I'm trying to go one step (possibly 2 or 3 steps) further with. Ultimately I need to get the inner primary case off. It is an HD belt primary (don't know if it's conversion or original to the bike). Right now the top end is off and the bike is stripped down. Just the lower end, tranny, starter and primary are left on the frame. The rear wheel and swing arm are all off. Everything but the basic frame and what I mentioned. I realize that this should have been done earlier. But the fact is that this is a project that started out as a rocker box gasket replacement and snow balled. But it was a gradual progression. Which turned into a full blown hardtail chopper build. I'm explaining in detail and carefully as I can so you hopefully have all the information you need to answer me correctly. But what I want to do is get what you teach in this video done (which I now understand perfectly how to do). AND the basket and everything so I can get the inner primary case off. But with what I have already taken off...the motor will NOT lock as you know. How can I get this done? I don't need to take the compensating nut or front pulley off. As the the case will bypass that. Your help is appreciated very much!
I usually remove the front pulley and clutch hub nut with an air impact. The belt drive is definitely a modification. Remember, the motor pulley nut has a right hand thread and the clutch hub nut is a left hand thread. Thank you for watching.
@@pacificmike9501 so after I get the motor pulley and basket off. What has to come off under the basket in order to get the inner primary case off. Which I thought I asked already but maybe not
Please chheck out our inner primary installation video. Once the basket is off, the starter and it's "drive housing" has to be removed, then the bolts holding the inner primary housing on have to be removed, and, please buy a service manual.
@@pacificmike9501 I already have a service manual. But sometimes it's quicker to ask someone. But not in your particular case. I did read the service manual a couple days ago and got everything taken care of
You know in the summer I imported a 67 Electra Glide into the uk from an ol ’ timer in Indiana. I since discovered that over here in England there’s so little info on old Shovelheads, that your vids have been invaluable!! Thank you so much! You are a star!
1 1/32". that's the distance from edge of spring collar to face of PP. On adjusting the clutch: H-D Factory Rep showed us to: Set the bike *level* on a stand or lift. Set the PP collar at 1 1/32" on all three studs. Check to make sure T/O brg is in place via oil fill hole in trans/kicker cover. (the later small round needle brg and/or it's snap ring tends to fail quickly when clutch has been misadjusted on the later 70s and 80s Shovels) Check to make sure clutch cable adjuster is run completely in (towards transmission/bottomed out). Yes make sure it's jam nut is run 100% opposite direction too. Now turn the center clutch adjuster until it just touches the clutch (push) rod. Back out adjuster screw 1/4 turn exactly, and hold it still while tightening the lock/jam nut. Now adjust the clutch cable adjuster until you have @ 1/4" or a tad less bewteen lever and handlebar hsg. . Now pull the clutch lever in while watching the pressure plate move. You'll usually notice it'll lift cocked/at a slant to one stud. Find the side slanted toward plate is lowest, and thread in the collar adjusting nut OPPOSITE the lowest side. Check lever again and pressure plate should lift completely straight and even now. Double check to see T/O brg is still in place. Button up everything. Now go do your burn outs. It'll hold it. Now I'll watch the video.
Awesome videos!! I’ve learned so much. I’m restoring a 1961 Servi-Car. Presently putting it back together. Coincidentally putting the clutch on. Do the fiber plates also have a specific orientation? Again awesome tips and tricks of the trade…. You are passing along knowledge you can only get from experience…
Actually, it wouldn't save that much. And, I've found that when I replace a clutch hub, the whole part is new. Maybe I'm spoiling myself, but a new hub after a lot of miles, is pretty nice.
THANK YOU MIKE I understand ….NO OIL I gust old ways die hard in the old days those belts broke a lot so I am always thinking boy that belt will brake . but I will try the oil seal and thank you for getting back to me , I bought my frist Harley in 1965 a 1940 61 in a VL frame not running but mostly all there for 45.00 dollars and have been running them ever sins I do most of my riding now on my 1993 Harley FXR with a Harley side car not to meany of them around I started riding side cars in the 70s I had my 54 fle bolted to a 1954 side car . had aheart trans plant in 2000 so not the man I use to be but still love to ride any way THANK YOU Mile and ...hope to see you on the road :) GOD BLESS ..Bill
Cool. I think we've been down roads, most people have never seen. But, enough of that. Currently, just got my old roadbike, my Shovel, which I bought new in 1978, up and running again! And, as soon as it's broke in, I can start making my sidecar mounts. Yah, we could talk for days.
Hello Mike, Thanks for the VIDEO - and the TIP on using ALCOHOL for Clutch cleaning purposes G@@D information to have COOP ..........................................
There are rivet tools around. Or you could make your own. I guess we better do a little riveting to show how. There's really not much to it. It's a whole lot easier to show than tell.
Hi Mike, I'm really enjoying your videos, and learning a lot. I recently picked up a 1983 FXRS shovelhead 5 speed, and just followed this to remove the clutch, clean the plates and re-install. I found that the plate spacing was set at 1-1/8", but according to the service manual this was set at 1-1/32" at the factory so that's what I set it to, being careful to make sure the spacing was the same all the way around. I then adjusted the clutch cable per the service manual for 1/4" clearance. I just took it out for a test run and wow! It's grabbing really nicely now. Here's my issue though... when I got home I was unable to "find" neutral. Any advice for next steps? thanks
When do you know it's time to replace the steel clutch plates. I laid them on glass to check that they are flat. My plates have dark marks on the flat surface however they are not warped. Is it time to replace them or can I simply give them a heavy sanding. Thanks very much for all your videos they're great.
Great video! I have a 81 flh, my clutch is sticky so I went right to your page. I will be doing mine tomorrow. What are your thoughts on wet clutches and do they make kits for older bikes? Sure wish you were on another platform so I could pick your brain🤣
Yo Mike - just serviced the dry clutch on my panhead. Makes a huge difference - thanks for the great videos. Quick question - I have the clutch dialed in - she shifts easy and everything seems on point. When I have the clutch engaged at a light and am listening to the chatter of the clutch plates it seems like the bike wants to creep forward the tiniest bit. Normal? This engine has very few miles since a major rebuild and is still tight, so I thought that might be the cause as everything seems to be running well.
You are sitting there with the clutch "disengaged." The steel plates are rattling around. That's okay. If the clutch is grabbing, maybe it's not releasing far enough or maybe it's not breaking evenly enough. This is all adjustable and just needs a little more practice. Sounds like you're getting very close.
I'v did this many times in my life sinse i was a teenager but dude, you are fking awesome. It's nice to see you do it. I don't know if you will see this but on my 79 FLH clutch I'm sure there are groves in those steel plate guides or what you call ems on the clutch basket that engage the steel plates. I was hoping I could just file them down smooth and make the clutch basket serviceable. Does that sound like an ok idea to you? The reason I also watched this is i was hoping you would mention how bad those steel plate's anti rattle parts should be before they need to be replaced. Mine was wiggling a little bit side to side even 20 years ago. Iv been using those steel plate sinse 1979. I am replacing my stator so I wanted to get everything right in there while I have it apart. I'm hoping It will last till I Die.
Get a long strip of emery cloth and polish those studs like a shoe shine man. If they're too far gone, I get it, but, It's worth a try. Those steel plates will work with or without those buffer units. They're just quieter without them. You can get away with a lot of stuff, but, new parts are wonderful. We all do what we gotta do sometimes.
@@pacificmike9501 Last Time I had the clutch out was about 2007. The riveted in guide blocks on the inside the clutch basket looked like they were wearing rounded grooves where the steel plate's push up against them. it's a 40 year old clutch basket and same for steel plates. Barnett fiber plates new in 2007 that still look new. I'm getting ready to take it apart next couple weeks to replace stator & rotor. I was thinking I could file down the clutch basket inner blocks where the steel plate's are wearing rounded grooves into them. I got a new clutch hub (current one Is definitely grooved from the fiber plates). My clutch does slip only when i hit the throttle hard, never binds up when clutch disengaged and bike in gear at a stop. Early 1979 FLH with ratchet top. I always baby it. Does it sound plausible to file down those rounded grooves on one side of each of the clutch basket guide blocks that the steel plates are wearing grooves into so I can salvage the basket?
We show some pretty good closeups on our videos and there are a fw on the dry clutches. Go to our UA-cam Home page. Just type in Pacific Mike on UA-cam, then click on the word "Videos."
I have this style of dry clutch on my FXB Sturgis. I adjusted it as shown here but noticed that in heavy stop and go traffic it really stonks into first from neutral. Am I correct in thinking that with a very hot clutch the adjustment loosens and the gap set with the adjuster screw becomes larger ? This would be the case when the heat in the clutch plates expands them, effectively moving the pressure plate (and with it the adjustmemt screw) outwards... ? Or does heat lengthen the clutch pushrod and tightens the adjuster screw gap ? P.S. I put new plates in the clutch this winter, they are not greased up or sticking.
You'll have to experiment with your adjustments. Make sure the releasing disc is sliding away staight. Adjust the springs accordingly. Adjust the center adjusting screw (with the cable backed off completely) to move the clutch arm so that it is 13/16" away from the top of the transmission cover. You will find this in your service manual.
Hey Mike, rebuilding my dads 79 Shovelhead. Your videos have been invaluable in the process. Putting the clutch hub Assam on today and I do not have a woodruff key as the manual says it should have and there is notch on the hub and trans shaft. It has been a couple of months but do not remember one when disassembling. Possible it popped off when Imremovedmhub but didn't see it and was very careful about keeping all parts. Cannot find a video anywhere on reinstalling the hub, only on the clutch with his already installed.
I believe we showed that on a video for the project bike. Go to our UA-cam Homepage and click on "videos." It's just a seal that slides in between the two bushings in the cover. We built a kickstart assembly there.
Sure. Why not? Anything that helps keep oil off of your clutch plates is a good thing. And, the nut is deep enough to install two seals. Just something that may or may not help, but, you're there anyway.
For anyone using iso with heigh water content or in an environment that has moisture make sure to sweat the metal clutch plates with a torch. Get rid of the moisture context or you’ll end up with a rusty, glued clutch.
another superb, simple, matter of fact instruction vid Mike! the only thing i could say would "improve" it is to mention NOT to use methanol (methyl alky), but isopropyl (rubbing alky) or denatured ethyl as your "safe cleaner". methyl is a neuro-toxin you absorb through your skin, by breathing the fumes, etc. just one exposure won't do any much harm, but it's cumulative, so all the short exposures add up to damage over time. "minor toxicity" results in permanent numbness in fingers, teeth rotting, and other fun stuff. real bad exposure (like drinking it) can cause permanent blindness, coma, heart problems, etc. good stuff to avoid exposure to as much as possible, lol. besides, it causes cancer in california, rofl. ALL solvents are kinda bad over long term, but methyl is pretty awful all the time.
Always looking to "improve." I am not a chemist, but I will try to be more explicit in my recommendations. Your input is much appreciated. I appreciate the compliment and the clarification. Again, thank you.
Pacific Mike no chemist here either. I learned the hard way about methanol, so figured I'd spare others the side effects. Thanks for the reply, and keep up the fantastic work, both spinning wrenches and making vids!
Hey Mike, I cleaned the clutch out just like you did in this video and adjusted the clutch boost as in another video of yours and it was fine for a couple of rides and now wont release. The plates were just super gummy especially towards the basket and one was really difficult to remove but I got it out and cleaned them all and it was great. Do you think I should invest in new plates? The set in my 56 are at least 30 years old and thats a rough guess. Thanks.
Hard to say. Sounds like maybe you're leaking oil on to the plates. Is the clutch nut seal doing its job? If the plates are just super gummy, they could be so saturated they won't clean up. Did you try sanding them? Sometimes, maybe it's time to buy new ones. If you do, make sure they slide well on the fingers of the clutch hub. If not, try sanding those studs (fingers). Sometimes you need to open the holes up a hair on the plates (1/64th over 3/8). Good luck. I can't make a judgement over the internet. I try. Sometimes it's time to replace more than one thing.
@@pacificmike9501 Thanks Mike. I could not get the oil out of those plates no matter what I tried but then read in the service manual to soak them in white gas and it takes the oil right out of them. I also finally think I have the timing done correctly and will be starting it up tomorrow with the primary cover off to see if it leaks from the clutch nut seal or not. I tried to break that nut free but man that thing is on there. Hopefully with the points set and the timing done it will start easier for me and then we shall see if it leaking. Hopefully not. I may pull it off one more time and clean up the studs since its so much easier with putting a big washer on there to hold all those springs together. Thanks again.
Mike I have a stock ‘90 FXRS CON with the newer clutch shaft. I would like to know which pros & cons are to be expected when installing an open belt and dry clutch. I’m lookin’ for simplicity, reliability, smoothnes and easy road side repairability. Any thoughts/advice would be appreciated. The bike has 104K km on it. Cheers Marcus
Well, I answered you accidentally before finding this comment. I'd run a wet primary, an aftermarket clutch of your choice, and even maybe an aftermarket starter of your choice. You've got a well designed unit to start with.
Just take off the releasing disc (the way we do it with a washer on the adjusting nut). Now set it down and slowly back off on the nut. It's okay if the stud backs out. Just do it slowly so it doesn't go "Boing!." Now easily replace the springs and reassemble the pressure plate on to the releasing disc. Assemble the stud and tighten down the nut to hold it all together.
Hi Mike, Happy new year. Thank you for making these videos. My clutch is new but has been sitting for almost 20 years. The steel plates have patches of surface rust. The clutch seems to operate okay but since it’s apart should I worry about dressing up the steel plates? Also my steel plates don’t have the anti rattle fingers. Is it worth the cost to buy them? Thank you
Happy New Year. Use some fine wet or dry sandpaper (like, 400 grit). Clean them up with the sandpaper and a real light oil to get rid of the rust and make them smooth. Then, wash them with isopropyl alcohol and use them. The antirattlers just keep the plates from rattling when the clutch is disengaged. If the sound doesn't bother you, the bike doesn't care. Personally, I like them quiet, but, it doesn't really matter. Don't buy the antirattler fingers (as you call them). If you want quiet plates, buy new plates with the anti-rattlers or "buffers" already installed.
Question for you Mike. I have an issue with a sticking throw-out bearing. Pulling the clutch in when coming to a stop in 1st gear, the clutch doesn’t disengage. Took it all apart, cleaned everything, reinstalled. Same thing happens intermittently. Locks up the rear wheel when it happens if applying brake at same time the clutch sticks. Bike is a 1970 FLH.
I think you need to remove the kicker cover and remove the throwout bear. See if it has a problem. Inspect the finger that moves that bearing. See if the clutch throwout rod is in good shape. They wear out. The angle of the clutch arm is critical. The book says 5/8" from the starter motor. You need to check it all out from one end to the other. Check the adjusting screw. The one with a ball on then end of it is not one of my favorites.
Any thoughts/advice about changing to primary belt drive and dry clutch? Angles: reliability, simplicity, road side repairability, smoothness, cost? Fxrs Con ‘90. Regards Marcus.
Harley did better (I believe it was 91 up) when they went to a splined transmission mainshaft and clutch hub, but the wet clutch and stock primaries on 5 speeds were all pretty good. There are newer, better clutches available for both early and later Harleys and I generally run belt drives on any of the old kickstart only bikes. Electric starts, I run primary chains. Just me.
Mike, finishing up my clutch on a 77 shovel head open belt set up. What is a good distance to start when measuring from the pressure plate to the releasing disk?
Mike, my Pan-Shovel has the same belt primary as the bike in this video, and I have two questions about pulley installation: First, what is the torque on the front pulley nut, and do you use loctite? Second, ordinarily on the clutch hub nut, there's a tab washer that locks to the keyway. However, with this rear belt pulley, there is a dished aluminum piece (with a nylon washer on the back side with holes for the fingers) that covers up the keyway. So, there's nothing for the tab washer to hook into. Do you just omit the tab washer?
Not sure. But, a drop of red Loctite will keep that clutch hub nut on there. About 60 lbs. on the clutch hub nut is adequate. Front pulley nut. What year motor? Splined shaft or tapered shaft? That's why I ask for years and models. I hit that pulley nut with an air impact. Don't get carried away. A drop of red loctite on that nut too.
@@pacificmike9501 - Sorry, this is a '51 Pan bottom, so it's a tapered shaft. Sounds good! I will proceed as you suggest--and thank you for the quick reply. She's almost on the road, in time for the 1-year anniversary of purchase and tear-down. I'll soon be reviewing your 'mousetrap' adjustment video again to make sure I get it right!
Hi Mike! I finally found some time to dismantle the clutch on my '77 Shovelhead project bike. The plates were a real mess so I cleaned and serviced them the way you suggested in your fine video. However I ran into an unexpected problem with the pressure plate assembly. It has only 3 clutch springs rather than the 10 required. The springs are situated on the adjustment nut studs. Not sure why someone did this, but I intend to install the proper compliment of 10 springs. How do I install the new springs efficiently, and without injuring myself? Thanks.
You'll see. Remove the assembly from the hub using the "washer trick.' Slowly back off the nut and center screw. Take it apart. Put the ten springs in place, Then put the collar, called the pressure plate, in place and replace the center screw and nut. Now, you can install it back on the clutch hub. Be sure you get the right springs for your model. Adjust spacing for YOUR model. Should be just fine.
@@pacificmike9501 Thanks very much for the advice Mike! Would you go with stock H-D springs, if they're still available, or is there an advantage to after-market clutch springs like the ones offered by Barnett?
Great video Mike. I feel like if I was that far into maintaining the clutch and giving it a general once over i'd want to clean and lubricate the clutch basket bearings and make sure that was all nice inside. What do you think?
Sure. Clean and lubed is the best. That stuff, well maintained, lasts a long time. And, the more you do it, the more you understand how the machine responds to good maintenance. Have fun.
Mike, I know this is an old video, but I have a question. I have an 80 fxwg with a chain primary, but I have a dry clutch. I put the aftermarket needle bearings on it with no cage (with a healthy amount of grease) and a 5 stud clutch hub. I noticed that when the bike is cold, the clutch chatters quite a bit when I take off. Once it warms up, it stops. I haven't taken it apart yet to see what's going on, but I was hoping you could point me in the right direction as to what to look for when I disassemble it. EDIT: Probably worth noting it's a 93" S&S stroker kit.
The basket would be wobbling on the hub. The hub could be wobbling on the mainshaft. I don't know which you have. Hard to say what you're getting in to.
Please help! It could be a little of this~little of that~ I know" and it's not in front of you. Hear is my issue, don't be scared, let me rephrase that, here's my bike's issue. Got tired of replacing crappy oil slingers and Waffle bushing throw out bearing, they kept wallering out the slot that it sits on on the rod, old guy told me to get an old original one, can't find one bought an aftermarket one, adjuster screw is properly adjusted, clutch hub springs I'm running lose as I can, because when I engage the clutch, it was eating up the push rod, had a machine shop make me some custom push rods much harder, now it's eating the adjustment screw, purchase one of those Rinky Dink aftermarket adjustment screws with a ball bearing in the end, it spins then it seizes then eats itself up. If I loosen things up then I don't have enough clutch to hold the bike still in gear. It does have an aftermarket pressure plate Open primary 5 finger. Think that pressure plates too thick giving me too much pressure on those Springs still? But if I loosen it I don't have any clutch, if I tighten it eats itself up. 😕
Well, you're right. I can't see it from here. Are the plates sliding on the fingers? Is the rod sliding easily through the mainshaft. Something is giving you way too much resistance.
@@pacificmike9501 That's my problem, if you don't know what it is, you check everything, I'm starting to think it's the aftermarket ...spring keeper ? Whatever you call it, ordered a Factory steel one that's thinner with the nuts that lock, thinking I have too much spring pressure. But... the thing is, it used to work with all the parts I have, it just kept wallering the hole out in the oil Slinger before I went to the old school beefy throw out. Thanks for responding all the same.
Hey thanks for the video.. I have a 83 FXSB with a dry clutch belt setup. I'm getting a fair amount of oil in my clutch plates and the clutch is slipping. I do have a leak coming from my transmission drive gear seal. I am not seeing any oil leaking from the front crank seal. Is the trans causing the oil on my clutch plates? Do you have a video on removing the primary and changing the seal? This thing has been leaking for years now, and making a mess of my garage but I've been hesitant to tackle the job until I'm comfortable with it. It's long over due. Hoping for a point in the right direction with this. Thanks in advance.
I think we've shown all those things, maybe not in the order you're asking. The transmission has two seals on the left side. The mainshaft oil seal, as it is referred to in the parts book, is the large seal behind the sprocket. This and the spacer that runs inside it are generally the culprits that flood your garage floor. Next, the second offender, especially if you overfill your transmission, or your bike leans to the left too far, is the main drive gear oil seal (as it is referred to in the parts book). I believe you need to replace all of this stuff. Don't forget the clutch hub nut seal. You can stack two in the nut. We do have a video showing the installation of the inner primary, although it's not a belt drive. I hope this helps you.
@@pacificmike9501 looks like I need the parts book. You've been very helpful I greatly appreciate it. I gotta get that part number for the main seal bushing. I think that may be my issue as the previous owner did all the seals shortly before I bought the bike. Or so he says you know how that goes. ✌️
What is the motorcycle? Does it have a year of manufacture? Is it a Panhead? Shovelhead? Evo? Sportster? Do you have a year and model specific service manual? If so, it's in your service manual.
Yes. Wet clutches are nice. But, your system must be designed for it. A lot of the plates are "either or." But the rest of the system has to be made for it.
Hello Mike I see you have a belt drive and I did not see a vent on the primary cover ,,,is the old steel primary cove better for those belts than the late alum. covers ? I have had BAD luck with belts but had it on my 70 FLH ….you must like them any way let me know ...and thank you for keeping the old stuff running ….Bill
You know, this is just my personal preferences. On an old bike, with tin primaries and a kickstart, I love a belt drive. On a later bike, with aluminum housings and an electric start, I prefer a chain drive. I worked with belt drives back when they were a new thing and I've watched them improve. They're better than they've ever been. Proper alignment and tension is most important. Using today's Kevlar belts in tin primaries, I've had no problems.
thank you Mike I have never used a belt on a tin primary . beleve me I have put a lot of miles on a tin primary and if they work like you say well I am putting one on my 54 pan . thank you mike I love your lessons and after 55 years on the road I like that I can still learn things ….have a blessed day my brother ...Bill
Okay, now I feel I have a responsibility to you. I hope this helps you. These are my recommendations: First thing is, buy a motor seal. Colony is the only company I know of that makes it for your '54 ('37-'54). This is the toughest part of the whole operation. Removing the snap ring that holds the factory spacer in place is not easy. Then, remove the spacer and install the seal with the supplied snap ring. Then, remove the breather pipe from the motor and cut the curved end off of it so that the outlet of that tube is inboard of the primary. Reinstall the breather tube. Attach a rubber hose to it to vent it out the rear of the motorcycle without any oil going onto the rear tire. Now, turn the screw on the oil pump in so that it bottoms and no longer oils the chain which will no longer exist. Now, with the inner primary cover off, make sure both the sprocket shaft and transmission mainshaft are in the same plane, both up and down and side to side. I do this by installing both pulleys and laying a piece of glass on them and making sure it doesn't "rock." Now, put it all back together and install the belt with the tension "free play" or "slack" recommended by the manufacturer. I prefer a Kevlar belt . This is perfection to me. I always get a belt drive that will fit inside the stock primary covers. And, I still have both feet, as do my passengers. By the way, now you can travel great distances without having to stop and adjust the primary chain. And, you can park on people's driveways without having to apologize so much.
I believe I have shown it on my Shovelhead. Look at our Shovelhead playlist. Is your electric starter system gone, or just replacing a starter? I assume you're speaking of a '65 Electraglide. But, you didn't say.
Pacific Mike Yes it’s a 65 Electraglide but it has a later model primary and started. I bought it as a basket case. It continually surprises me, I’m sorry to say. Got a Cycle Electric generator, a relay to the starter button as well. I’ve wired the bike but obviously I’ve done something wrong cause the wiring isn’t working. The starter is in pieces and I’m having difficulty figuring out the manual diagram. Thought if I watched you doing one it may help. Thanks.
I know this is 4 yrs old but I am hoping I can get some help. I have a 1982 FXRS dry clutch with oiler. Plates were stuck so bad I could not put it into gear without stalling. I cleaned them with brake fluid and they worked great on a two hour ride. Bike sat for 10 days and when I tried to take it out the clutch was stuck again. This time I soaked the plates in mineral spirits overnight then scuffed them up with some 100 grit sandpaper, cleaned them and reinstalled. Steel plates were numbered and went back in order. Friction were not numbered and they are out of order. I lightly sanded the fingers. Did not yet test ride but I’m guessing it will feel great at first. I’m just worried they will be stuck again in another ten days. Note: before taking off the cover I drained approx 16 oz of oil (60w). Should there be that much in there? I have the original set up, oiler off the tee and return to pump. Note: plates were 80% covered in oil. I used all new gaskets when putting together this time. I have no vacuum pump to check for leak. Would wet/dry plates help me with situation?
Oil off the tee? Oil should come into the primary from the little skinny tube on top of the oil pump. Sounds like you may be flooding that primary. The big line with a tee is a breather from the motor back to the oil tank, with a tee huffing air into the primary. Then there is a line from the back corner of the primary back to the motor case.
@@pacificmike9501 sorry my rant may have been confusing. Mine is set up how you just explained, a line coming off the tee supplying oil to the chain. The return comes from the back of the primary and goes to the pump.
I don't think so. The little tube on top of the oil pump has a skinny little hose that slides onto a fitting on the inner primary that is pressed into the inner primary housing from the outside in and in the middle of the inside of that housing. Then, there is a breather hose that goes from the crankcase (above the oil pump) to the oil tank. That is a breather hose and it has a tee in it to go to the inner primary. Then, the oil return hose from the bottom rear corner of the primary returns oil to the crankcase through a fitting on the crankcase inboard of the oil pump. If this isn't clear enough, please look in your service manual. Getting these wrong can be catastrophic.
@@pacificmike9501 sorry you are correct. the return goes to the crankcase, not the pump. I checked the service and parts manual. that was very clear. actually following the lines under the bike, not so clear. I have the bike on one of those small lifts and the part that supports the frame is obstructing my view making it difficult to follow the lines. At first I thought they were reversed but I was able to confirm that they are correct.
SO if the oil lines are correct, gaskets are new, torque is correct, the system should work properly unless pulling air from shifter shaft?? I may not have time for a test ride until monday, then I can pull the drain plug and see how much oil accumulated this time, I am watching your Evo motor disasembly video while typing this, had to pause it lol.
Hi mike, I converted the primary to a belt drive on my shovelhead (1982) and replaced the friction discs at the same time. I see the bike you are working on in this video has 4 friction discs. Mine originally came with 5 so after the conversion I installed the 5 new friction discs that came in the pack but now I almost can't let the clutch slip, it's almost like it's either engaged or disengaged with no in between. My mechanic also noticed that the pack of plates was a bit too thick for its taste and we cannot remove tension on the spring anymore, the nuts are at the very end of the fingers. Would you say the clutch could have a better feel if I remove one friction disc even if it originally had 5? I would much appreciate to have your opinion. Thanks!
Not a problem. Original clutches used 5 fiber plates from '66-'84. Earlier ones used 4. Your belt drive clutch basket may be intended for 4. Still not a problem. Try 4 with 4 steels. The first plate in should be a steel because your clutch basket is most likely aluminum and needs a steel to keep from scoring from the spinning fiber disc that you will install next. Now alternate steel and fiber with the last plate installed to be a fiber. You should be good to go. Don't forget, if the steels have the buffers on them to "stagger" them for clearance. Don't forget to get the measurement from the edge of the "pressure plate" to the releasing disc to be as close to 1 and 1/32" as close as possible and even all the way around.
Hey Mike! Love your videos! I have a 1980 FXWG. I've been fighting the clutch for a little while and have a question about it. The service manual speaks to setting the clutch arm on the transmission 13/16" from the tower on the transmission as the first adjustment your do. I however have yet to see anyone actually do this when adjusting their clutch. All the folks I have talked to and videos I've watched essentially show the same procedure you're doing. Was this a pointless step from HD?
Not at all. In fact, I have suggested it before. The manual is the place to start. And, that adjustment, using the late tranny lid, is the way to go. It's hard to get in there with your little ruler and it seems dumb, but it's the best starting place for your adjustment.
@@pacificmike9501 So just a follow-up, the manual says to loosen the pushrod lock-nut and turn the screw out then use the adjusting sleeve to bring the release lever forward. I have heard of people instead using the adjusting screw to set the 13/16" gap at the release lever, then adjusting the cable. It seems like it accomplishes the same thing. What do you think? (note: I use a little ruler from a set of feeler gauges that I've marked the 13/16" line with a sharpie to get in there. Throw a magnet on top to keep it in place and you're all set.)
I think you're doing great. What you're doing is getting an understanding of how it really works. If you use the adjusting screw to set the arm position, while you hold onto the cable sleeve (which has been backed off completely), back off the screw just a little to make sure the throwout bearing is not under a load. Gotta have a little freeplay. Get your cable adjusted without loosing that freeplay. Don't be surprised if it isn't perfect right off the bat. Do it some more. Remember to lube the cable and the hand lever. Lube where the end of the cable seats into the clutch arm. All of these things are important so the parts wear longer and are a pleasure to use.
I got a trick I use for the same procedure. Just take a piece of fuel line about 6 or 8 inches long and put it on the end of a spark plug that is 13/16 and use that as a feeler gauge sort of between the top of the tranny and the clutch arm. It beats hell out of trying to hold a ruler or anything in there.
The old Shovel I bought has a belt primary drive. The belt was oily and damaged. I've read that belts need to be ventilated. The one on your Knuckle is fully enclosed. So did my belt get hot or was oil the cause ? My clutch derby cover and front of the primary cover is ventilated.
Good questions, not much information, but I'll try. First, find out where the oil is coming from. It could be the motor seal. It could be from a no longer needed primary chain oiler. It could be leaking in from somewhere else. Next comes your question on heating. I don't know what primary covers you're using. The old belts were made of rubber. Today's belts are made of Kevlar and are far more durable. I only run belts inside tin covers, which are not sealed up, and therefore just don't seem to heat up much. I've run them for many years and it gets real hot here in the summer. But, venting is not a bad thing. Oil is very hard on belts, but age and nasty things in the air deteriorates them, even the Sun's rays. Last is alignment and tension. Best to consult the manufacturer on your particular unit. I hope this helps. Good luck.
Possible leak from the clutch push rod in the center of the clutch hub nut (left hand thread nut with locking washer. There is a small seal that will leak tranny oil on the discs and plates.
My generation owes you a massive debt of gratitude. Thank you for making these videos so we can be self-sufficient and keep our old bikes on the road!
You're very welcome!
Mike, Thank you ain't enough by half to say how appreciated your instructional videos are. My god... we'd all be poking in the dark without your videos.
Glad to help
The Bob Ross of choppers. Love your vids. ✌️
Thank you.
Bob Ross!! Wow. Knew him well.
A thank you on behalf of everyone who enjoys watching and learning in a clear straight forward way , about and how to work on Harleys . brilliant vids
Quite a compliment. Thank you. We keep trying. We're constantly learning.
Great video Mike, Picked up an 81 FXS made it 50 miles and it blew a head gasket, hauled it home, found your channel. Put it together and it went 3 miles and the primary exploded. Got it going again with your help. Needless to say this bike keeps me on your channel. Thanks for all your help. Just about got all the bugs worked out.
That's very cool. Thank you. I am impressed.
Thank you for making your videos informative. Brings me back to my apprenticeship days when I tried to soak up all the experience of the ole Skool journeymen. Everyone who wants to has the opportunity to learn from a Master Mechanic by watching your videos.
Wow. Thank You.
Mike I love your videos,you are the best one out there.keep them coming .
Thank you. We'll do our best.
Thank you, Mike. I'm enjoying to listen you.
Glad you enjoy it!
Recently went through this step by step on my '70 shovel. Clutch was "catching" and just becoming increasingly hard to ride. It's a foot clutch kick only so that was causing me headaches. After about an hour and a half of cleaning up my clutch and adjustments it was like someone had handed me a brand new bike. WOW what a difference. Just wanted to say thanks for the video it really helped me.
Thank you. Glad we could help.
I would like to thank you sir because of your videos I have been able to successfully work on my newly acquired 71 shovel head. Thank you very much for your very informational videos And making them very simple to understand. Keep up the great work,thank you again sir
Thank you. Glad to be of service.
That was a great memory. I remember the first time I did that as an 18 yr. Old in the late sixty's. On my 52 pan. I didn't know about the washer. Man I had springs going everywhere. Funny. Now on my 75 shovel I have a wet primary with wet clutch plates. Installed them in 1992. They have been perfect. Thank you for the memory.
Thank you.
Awesome videos I just bought a 48 pan and a 58 pan your videos are extremely helpful.
Wow! That's a call to celebrate. Thank You!
Gaining confidence and getting really excited to fix some things on the shovelhead this winter after watching your videos. Would love to see one on how to install a new clutch cable on a shovel sometime! Keep up the great videos
Never thought about it. Next time I put a clutch cable on a shovel, we'll show it. Thank you.
As a kid I was riding my Big Wheel and he was sanding clutch plates on the sidewalk. Good vids.
Thank you. You know it just has to do with the neighborhood you came from. And, we put steel roller skate wheels on the bottom of old 2X4's. Living at the foot of the mountains, was not necessarily a good thing. You know, I had to take the sidewalk down the mountain (just because it had a sharper turn than the street). All was good until Donna's (a little girl I went to school with) mother had left their garbage can out, right in the middle of that sidewalk. Yah the neighborhood was a gas. We all had childhoods. That "Big Wheel" must have been cool.
Thanks for your videos. I’m in the process of restoring my first 72 Shovelhead, so your videos are very informative.
Cool. Have a good time with it. Thank you.
these old harley davidsons were engineered to run forever but they have to be maintained they will probably outlive us all so mikes advice on these old scooters is priceless
Thank You. I'd like them to live forever. If we could enjoy them forever...
I don't even own a HD but love watching your videos!
Thank You.
Invaluable brother. Real teacher for all of us to enjoy. Thank you Mike for your time.
Thank you.
Now I know much more about my shovel dry clutch. Going to follow your procedure because the clutch is engaging VERY abruptly. Difficult to start off in 1st gear without the bike lunging forward, making stop signs and red lights interesting. Can't ride it like this. Hope the cleaning/sanding works. Great instruction, thanks for posting!
Glad to help. Make sure the plates can slide easily on the clutch hub fingers.
@@pacificmike9501 Will do, thank you!
@@pacificmike9501 Mike, sorry one more question if you have time. I disassembled the clutch plates and the steels have no cushions? Why might this be? Gary
Thankyou so much! I’m in Brazil. I have a service manual for my Shovel but it doesn’t sow how would be replaced the clutch discs! You’re a hand in the wheel! (That’s our expression for a good help)
Nice expression! Thank you. Glad to be of service.
Great video man.. Gonna go adjust the springs in my shovel. Love the tip with the washer on the adjusting screw.
Just the old way I was taught. Thank you.
Hi Mr
Greetings from Oaxaca Mexico, i was living in US fixing HDs, your patience is admirable, thanks for point the right matters with a correct information.
Erik
Cat's Garage Oaxaca.
Greetings, and thank you.
Back in the day all this stuff was simple I miss my 58 Panhead
They are still out there.
Hello from France. Thanks for sharing . Long life for the " Old Irons ' ....
Hello from America! Thanks for watching. It's our job to keep these old bikes alive for ourselves and future generations. What an honor!
Thank you UA-cam Dad! Youre the best please keep making videos🙏🙏
Thank you, I will
Great. Work Mike take care of yourself and family hope to see you on the road soon!
Thank You. Me too and you too.
Very detailed useful information that was explained like a collage professor. 2nd video I've watched and not only do I love them I appreciate the education. Thanks a bunch!
Thank you.
I'm a big fan of the Panheads and especially the Knuckleheads but I like the old school stuff personally! The old school stuff to me just have more class and character than new school! Cars, Trucks and Bikes! But good video man! I have a 82 Ironhead Sportster myself! Have had it since 92!
Very cool.
I've been having an issue with my clutch not wanting to go into first gear if I put it in neutral at a stoplight. It was working very well when I went to three-and-a-half disc clutch with my rocker pedal assembly. Lately I've been having problems with it going into first gear from neutral. It wants to grind the gears. I've got the clutch all apart and I'm cleaning everything up. I'm going to put it back together and try again that's why I'm watching your video. I wanted to make sure that I have enough play on the clutch pushrod arm. I have the same identical set up with inch and a half belt from BDL. Same pressure plate same releasing disc... I need to lock this video into memory.
Make sure all the plates slide easily and smoothly.
I run wet primary after going from belt back to chain. I clean my discs when needed! Thanks for the video. I have a 83 Shovel.
Thank you.
I wish that I could have your patience and vocabulary when wrenching.
Thank You.
Great videos MIke. You have a new subscriber since I just bought a 75 FX a couple of weeks ago. Thanks for taking the time to make these videos!
Awesome, thank you!
you make it look very easy
Repetition does that for you. In fact, a couple times and it becomes routine. Thank You.
I ride and wrench on a modern machine but these videos are really interesting...and fun to watch. Think I will sub up, and check out whatever you have coming next. Good job on the clear and concise instructions.
What a nice thing to hear. Thank you. From time to time, we'll get into some newer stuff, just whatever comes up. Obviously
An old Harley mechanic I knew showed me how to clean oily fiber plates. He soaked them in aviation gas, which drew the oil out. Fiber looked light gray again and like new. Crazy stuff. Aviation gas is more refined than pump car gas.
Cool. I like that.
Hey Mike, Nice video! I have a 76 FXE that I'm trying to go one step (possibly 2 or 3 steps) further with. Ultimately I need to get the inner primary case off. It is an HD belt primary (don't know if it's conversion or original to the bike). Right now the top end is off and the bike is stripped down. Just the lower end, tranny, starter and primary are left on the frame. The rear wheel and swing arm are all off. Everything but the basic frame and what I mentioned. I realize that this should have been done earlier. But the fact is that this is a project that started out as a rocker box gasket replacement and snow balled. But it was a gradual progression. Which turned into a full blown hardtail chopper build. I'm explaining in detail and carefully as I can so you hopefully have all the information you need to answer me correctly. But what I want to do is get what you teach in this video done (which I now understand perfectly how to do). AND the basket and everything so I can get the inner primary case off. But with what I have already taken off...the motor will NOT lock as you know. How can I get this done? I don't need to take the compensating nut or front pulley off. As the the case will bypass that. Your help is appreciated very much!
I usually remove the front pulley and clutch hub nut with an air impact. The belt drive is definitely a modification. Remember, the motor pulley nut has a right hand thread and the clutch hub nut is a left hand thread. Thank you for watching.
@@pacificmike9501 so after I get the motor pulley and basket off. What has to come off under the basket in order to get the inner primary case off. Which I thought I asked already but maybe not
Please chheck out our inner primary installation video. Once the basket is off, the starter and it's "drive housing" has to be removed, then the bolts holding the inner primary housing on have to be removed, and, please buy a service manual.
@@pacificmike9501 I already have a service manual. But sometimes it's quicker to ask someone. But not in your particular case. I did read the service manual a couple days ago and got everything taken care of
I forgot to tell. In our next video, soon to be released, we show how to remove the clutch hub.
Great video thank you enjoyed it.
Glad you enjoyed it. Thank You
Thanks for the vid, Mike.
Thank You for watching.
God bless ! . You are a blessing.
Thank You and the best to you.
Thx again Mike for really useful info! Stay safe!
Thanks, you too!
You know in the summer I imported a 67 Electra Glide into the uk from an ol ’ timer in Indiana. I since discovered that over here in England there’s so little info on old Shovelheads, that your vids have been invaluable!! Thank you so much! You are a star!
I LIKE THE BOX END
Okay.
1 1/32". that's the distance from edge of spring collar to face of PP.
On adjusting the clutch: H-D Factory Rep showed us to:
Set the bike *level* on a stand or lift.
Set the PP collar at 1 1/32" on all three studs.
Check to make sure T/O brg is in place via oil fill hole in trans/kicker cover. (the later small round needle brg and/or it's snap ring tends to fail quickly when clutch has been misadjusted on the later 70s and 80s Shovels)
Check to make sure clutch cable adjuster is run completely in (towards transmission/bottomed out). Yes make sure it's jam nut is run 100% opposite direction too.
Now turn the center clutch adjuster until it just touches the clutch (push) rod. Back out adjuster screw 1/4 turn exactly, and hold it still while tightening the lock/jam nut.
Now adjust the clutch cable adjuster until you have @ 1/4" or a tad less bewteen lever and handlebar hsg.
. Now pull the clutch lever in while watching the pressure plate move. You'll usually notice it'll lift cocked/at a slant to one stud. Find the side slanted toward plate is lowest, and thread in the collar adjusting nut OPPOSITE the lowest side. Check lever again and pressure plate should lift completely straight and even now.
Double check to see T/O brg is still in place.
Button up everything.
Now go do your burn outs. It'll hold it. Now I'll watch the video.
Very good. 1 1/32" on late model, 1" on earlier.
Awesome videos!! I’ve learned so much. I’m restoring a 1961 Servi-Car. Presently putting it back together. Coincidentally putting the clutch on. Do the fiber plates also have a specific orientation? Again awesome tips and tricks of the trade…. You are passing along knowledge you can only get from experience…
I'd have to see those plates. Go by your service manual. If you don't have one, V-Twin carries them.
Thank you for this mike!
Thank You. I hope it helps you.
Great video! Exactly what I needed to see for my Shovelhead.
Cool. Thank you.
Thanks again Mike! Always straight forward! Question, do you ever flip every other plate or put them on a flat surface to see if they are warped?
Thanks for the tips. I like the alcohol for cleaning .
Thank you for responding. Alcohol is quick, easy, cheap, and not very harmful.
Mike can you make a video replacing the drive pins and studs on clutch , would save lots of $$$
Actually, it wouldn't save that much. And, I've found that when I replace a clutch hub, the whole part is new. Maybe I'm spoiling myself, but a new hub after a lot of miles, is pretty nice.
@@pacificmike9501 thanks Mike ,
THANK YOU MIKE I understand ….NO OIL I gust old ways die hard in the old days those belts broke a lot so I am always thinking boy that belt will brake . but I will try the oil seal and thank you for getting back to me , I bought my frist Harley in 1965 a 1940 61 in a VL frame not running but mostly all there for 45.00 dollars and have been running them ever sins I do most of my riding now on my 1993 Harley FXR with a Harley side car not to meany of them around I started riding side cars in the 70s I had my 54 fle bolted to a 1954 side car . had aheart trans plant in 2000 so not the man I use to be but still love to ride any way THANK YOU Mile and ...hope to see you on the road :) GOD BLESS ..Bill
Cool. I think we've been down roads, most people have never seen. But, enough of that. Currently, just got my old roadbike, my Shovel, which I bought new in 1978, up and running again! And, as soon as it's broke in, I can start making my sidecar mounts. Yah, we could talk for days.
Good job ❤
Thank You.
Hello Mike,
Thanks for the VIDEO -
and the TIP on using ALCOHOL for Clutch cleaning purposes
G@@D information to have
COOP
..........................................
Cool. Glad you like it.
Hey mike wondering if you could do one on replacing the clutch hub liner? Dry clutch....
Is there a tool for the rivets or????
There are rivet tools around. Or you could make your own. I guess we better do a little riveting to show how. There's really not much to it. It's a whole lot easier to show than tell.
Hi Mike, I'm really enjoying your videos, and learning a lot. I recently picked up a 1983 FXRS shovelhead 5 speed, and just followed this to remove the clutch, clean the plates and re-install. I found that the plate spacing was set at 1-1/8", but according to the service manual this was set at 1-1/32" at the factory so that's what I set it to, being careful to make sure the spacing was the same all the way around. I then adjusted the clutch cable per the service manual for 1/4" clearance. I just took it out for a test run and wow! It's grabbing really nicely now. Here's my issue though... when I got home I was unable to "find" neutral. Any advice for next steps? thanks
Yes, it's the way they were designed. Put it into neutral while you are rolling, not when you are stopped.
When do you know it's time to replace the steel clutch plates. I laid them on glass to check that they are flat. My plates have dark marks on the flat surface however they are not warped. Is it time to replace them or can I simply give them a heavy sanding.
Thanks very much for all your videos they're great.
If they work smoothly, they're good. They can be very smooth. Clean and smooth is it.
Great video! I have a 81 flh, my clutch is sticky so I went right to your page. I will be doing mine tomorrow. What are your thoughts on wet clutches and do they make kits for older bikes? Sure wish you were on another platform so I could pick your brain🤣
There is really no way to successfully seal your primary. You need to run a lot of oil for a wet clutch. Personally, I run dry clutches.
Great vid thanks
Thank You
Yo Mike - just serviced the dry clutch on my panhead. Makes a huge difference - thanks for the great videos. Quick question - I have the clutch dialed in - she shifts easy and everything seems on point. When I have the clutch engaged at a light and am listening to the chatter of the clutch plates it seems like the bike wants to creep forward the tiniest bit. Normal? This engine has very few miles since a major rebuild and is still tight, so I thought that might be the cause as everything seems to be running well.
You are sitting there with the clutch "disengaged." The steel plates are rattling around. That's okay. If the clutch is grabbing, maybe it's not releasing far enough or maybe it's not breaking evenly enough. This is all adjustable and just needs a little more practice. Sounds like you're getting very close.
Great Vid and greetings from Germany
Thank you.
Very informative.. Thanks Bud..
Thank you.
I'v did this many times in my life sinse i was a teenager but dude, you are fking awesome. It's nice to see you do it. I don't know if you will see this but on my 79 FLH clutch I'm sure there are groves in those steel plate guides or what you call ems on the clutch basket that engage the steel plates. I was hoping I could just file them down smooth and make the clutch basket serviceable. Does that sound like an ok idea to you? The reason I also watched this is i was hoping you would mention how bad those steel plate's anti rattle parts should be before they need to be replaced. Mine was wiggling a little bit side to side even 20 years ago. Iv been using those steel plate sinse 1979. I am replacing my stator so I wanted to get everything right in there while I have it apart. I'm hoping It will last till I Die.
Get a long strip of emery cloth and polish those studs like a shoe shine man. If they're too far gone, I get it, but, It's worth a try. Those steel plates will work with or without those buffer units. They're just quieter without them. You can get away with a lot of stuff, but, new parts are wonderful. We all do what we gotta do sometimes.
@@pacificmike9501 Last Time I had the clutch out was about 2007. The riveted in guide blocks on the inside the clutch basket looked like they were wearing rounded grooves where the steel plate's push up against them. it's a 40 year old clutch basket and same for steel plates. Barnett fiber plates new in 2007 that still look new. I'm getting ready to take it apart next couple weeks to replace stator & rotor. I was thinking I could file down the clutch basket inner blocks where the steel plate's are wearing rounded grooves into them. I got a new clutch hub (current one Is definitely grooved from the fiber plates). My clutch does slip only when i hit the throttle hard, never binds up when clutch disengaged and bike in gear at a stop. Early 1979 FLH with ratchet top. I always baby it. Does it sound plausible to file down those rounded grooves on one side of each of the clutch basket guide blocks that the steel plates are wearing grooves into so I can salvage the basket?
Can you make a video on how to install the springs because mine was all in pieces...
We show some pretty good closeups on our videos and there are a fw on the dry clutches. Go to our UA-cam Home page. Just type in Pacific Mike on UA-cam, then click on the word "Videos."
Good stuff, thanks Mike
Thank you.
I have this style of dry clutch on my FXB Sturgis. I adjusted it as shown here but noticed that in heavy stop and go traffic it really stonks into first from neutral. Am I correct in thinking that with a very hot clutch the adjustment loosens and the gap set with the adjuster screw becomes larger ? This would be the case when the heat in the clutch plates expands them, effectively moving the pressure plate (and with it the adjustmemt screw) outwards... ? Or does heat lengthen the clutch pushrod and tightens the adjuster screw gap ?
P.S. I put new plates in the clutch this winter, they are not greased up or sticking.
You'll have to experiment with your adjustments. Make sure the releasing disc is sliding away staight. Adjust the springs accordingly. Adjust the center adjusting screw (with the cable backed off completely) to move the clutch arm so that it is 13/16" away from the top of the transmission cover. You will find this in your service manual.
Hey Mike, rebuilding my dads 79 Shovelhead. Your videos have been invaluable in the process. Putting the clutch hub Assam on today and I do not have a woodruff key as the manual says it should have and there is notch on the hub and trans shaft. It has been a couple of months but do not remember one when disassembling. Possible it popped off when Imremovedmhub but didn't see it and was very careful about keeping all parts. Cannot find a video anywhere on reinstalling the hub, only on the clutch with his already installed.
I think it's there. Install the key. Carefully slide the hub in place. Be sure the key does not fall out.
I must have lost it during putting the trans seal in and/or cleaning the fiingers up on hub. Will have to get a new one
Thanks again for your quick response and for the videos. I have been able to do the work myself with your assistance!
Also looking to see about the seal on the lick start shaft side . Any videos on that? Or incorporated in another?
I believe we showed that on a video for the project bike. Go to our UA-cam Homepage and click on "videos." It's just a seal that slides in between the two bushings in the cover. We built a kickstart assembly there.
Mike I got 1972 FLH do you recommend to put doble seal on mainshaft nut clutch? Thanks very helpful video
Sure. Why not? Anything that helps keep oil off of your clutch plates is a good thing. And, the nut is deep enough to install two seals. Just something that may or may not help, but, you're there anyway.
Very good video, my man.
Thank you. We do things as they come up, and we'll be doing more soon. Hope you like them too.
For anyone using iso with heigh water content or in an environment that has moisture make sure to sweat the metal clutch plates with a torch. Get rid of the moisture context or you’ll end up with a rusty, glued clutch.
I've never had the problem, but it does make sense.
Hey Mike I was wondering what grit paper you recommend to sand with. And thanks for a great lesson. See ya out on the road!
Not critical. 320, 400. Just clean 'em up.
another superb, simple, matter of fact instruction vid Mike! the only thing i could say would "improve" it is to mention NOT to use methanol (methyl alky), but isopropyl (rubbing alky) or denatured ethyl as your "safe cleaner". methyl is a neuro-toxin you absorb through your skin, by breathing the fumes, etc. just one exposure won't do any much harm, but it's cumulative, so all the short exposures add up to damage over time. "minor toxicity" results in permanent numbness in fingers, teeth rotting, and other fun stuff. real bad exposure (like drinking it) can cause permanent blindness, coma, heart problems, etc. good stuff to avoid exposure to as much as possible, lol. besides, it causes cancer in california, rofl. ALL solvents are kinda bad over long term, but methyl is pretty awful all the time.
Always looking to "improve." I am not a chemist, but I will try to be more explicit in my recommendations. Your input is much appreciated. I appreciate the compliment and the clarification. Again, thank you.
Pacific Mike no chemist here either. I learned the hard way about methanol, so figured I'd spare others the side effects. Thanks for the reply, and keep up the fantastic work, both spinning wrenches and making vids!
Hey Mike, I cleaned the clutch out just like you did in this video and adjusted the clutch boost as in another video of yours and it was fine for a couple of rides and now wont release. The plates were just super gummy especially towards the basket and one was really difficult to remove but I got it out and cleaned them all and it was great. Do you think I should invest in new plates? The set in my 56 are at least 30 years old and thats a rough guess. Thanks.
Hard to say. Sounds like maybe you're leaking oil on to the plates. Is the clutch nut seal doing its job? If the plates are just super gummy, they could be so saturated they won't clean up. Did you try sanding them? Sometimes, maybe it's time to buy new ones. If you do, make sure they slide well on the fingers of the clutch hub. If not, try sanding those studs (fingers). Sometimes you need to open the holes up a hair on the plates (1/64th over 3/8). Good luck. I can't make a judgement over the internet. I try. Sometimes it's time to replace more than one thing.
@@pacificmike9501 Thanks Mike. I could not get the oil out of those plates no matter what I tried but then read in the service manual to soak them in white gas and it takes the oil right out of them. I also finally think I have the timing done correctly and will be starting it up tomorrow with the primary cover off to see if it leaks from the clutch nut seal or not. I tried to break that nut free but man that thing is on there. Hopefully with the points set and the timing done it will start easier for me and then we shall see if it leaking. Hopefully not. I may pull it off one more time and clean up the studs since its so much easier with putting a big washer on there to hold all those springs together. Thanks again.
Mike I have a stock ‘90 FXRS CON with the newer clutch shaft. I would like to know which pros & cons are to be expected when installing an open belt and dry clutch. I’m lookin’ for simplicity, reliability, smoothnes and easy road side repairability. Any thoughts/advice would be appreciated. The bike has 104K km on it. Cheers Marcus
Well, I answered you accidentally before finding this comment. I'd run a wet primary, an aftermarket clutch of your choice, and even maybe an aftermarket starter of your choice. You've got a well designed unit to start with.
Hi! how to change cluch hub springs? thank you
Just take off the releasing disc (the way we do it with a washer on the adjusting nut). Now set it down and slowly back off on the nut. It's okay if the stud backs out. Just do it slowly so it doesn't go "Boing!." Now easily replace the springs and reassemble the pressure plate on to the releasing disc. Assemble the stud and tighten down the nut to hold it all together.
Hi Mike,
Happy new year. Thank you for making these videos. My clutch is new but has been sitting for almost 20 years. The steel plates have patches of surface rust. The clutch seems to operate okay but since it’s apart should I worry about dressing up the steel plates? Also my steel plates don’t have the anti rattle fingers. Is it worth the cost to buy them?
Thank you
Happy New Year. Use some fine wet or dry sandpaper (like, 400 grit). Clean them up with the sandpaper and a real light oil to get rid of the rust and make them smooth. Then, wash them with isopropyl alcohol and use them. The antirattlers just keep the plates from rattling when the clutch is disengaged. If the sound doesn't bother you, the bike doesn't care. Personally, I like them quiet, but, it doesn't really matter. Don't buy the antirattler fingers (as you call them). If you want quiet plates, buy new plates with the anti-rattlers or "buffers" already installed.
Thanks so much. I’ll do just that.
Question for you Mike. I have an issue with a sticking throw-out bearing. Pulling the clutch in when coming to a stop in 1st gear, the clutch doesn’t disengage. Took it all apart, cleaned everything, reinstalled. Same thing happens intermittently. Locks up the rear wheel when it happens if applying brake at same time the clutch sticks. Bike is a 1970 FLH.
I think you need to remove the kicker cover and remove the throwout bear. See if it has a problem. Inspect the finger that moves that bearing. See if the clutch throwout rod is in good shape. They wear out. The angle of the clutch arm is critical. The book says 5/8" from the starter motor. You need to check it all out from one end to the other. Check the adjusting screw. The one with a ball on then end of it is not one of my favorites.
@@pacificmike9501 thank you very much Mike. Will do. Time to go to work then!! Have a great day.
Any thoughts/advice about changing to primary belt drive and dry clutch? Angles: reliability, simplicity, road side repairability, smoothness, cost? Fxrs Con ‘90. Regards Marcus.
Harley did better (I believe it was 91 up) when they went to a splined transmission mainshaft and clutch hub, but the wet clutch and stock primaries on 5 speeds were all pretty good. There are newer, better clutches available for both early and later Harleys and I generally run belt drives on any of the old kickstart only bikes. Electric starts, I run primary chains. Just me.
thanx Mike
Thank you.
Hi Mike. Love your channel. What would you recommend for sanding the clutch plates and what is the desired outcome? Thanks!
You're just wanting to "deglaze" them. When I was a kit, we rubbed them on the sidewalk. Any old sandpaper on a nice flat surface.
👍😎
Thank You.
Mike, finishing up my clutch on a 77 shovel head open belt set up. What is a good distance to start when measuring from the pressure plate to the releasing disk?
The book shows it at 1 1/32". But it's really up to you.
Mike, my Pan-Shovel has the same belt primary as the bike in this video, and I have two questions about pulley installation: First, what is the torque on the front pulley nut, and do you use loctite? Second, ordinarily on the clutch hub nut, there's a tab washer that locks to the keyway. However, with this rear belt pulley, there is a dished aluminum piece (with a nylon washer on the back side with holes for the fingers) that covers up the keyway. So, there's nothing for the tab washer to hook into. Do you just omit the tab washer?
Not sure. But, a drop of red Loctite will keep that clutch hub nut on there. About 60 lbs. on the clutch hub nut is adequate. Front pulley nut. What year motor? Splined shaft or tapered shaft? That's why I ask for years and models. I hit that pulley nut with an air impact. Don't get carried away. A drop of red loctite on that nut too.
@@pacificmike9501 - Sorry, this is a '51 Pan bottom, so it's a tapered shaft. Sounds good! I will proceed as you suggest--and thank you for the quick reply. She's almost on the road, in time for the 1-year anniversary of purchase and tear-down. I'll soon be reviewing your 'mousetrap' adjustment video again to make sure I get it right!
Way Cool.
Hi Mike! I finally found some time to dismantle the clutch on my '77 Shovelhead project bike. The plates were a real mess so I cleaned and serviced them the way you suggested in your fine video. However I ran into an unexpected problem with the pressure plate assembly. It has only 3 clutch springs rather than the 10 required. The springs are situated on the adjustment nut studs. Not sure why someone did this, but I intend to install the proper compliment of 10 springs. How do I install the new springs efficiently, and without injuring myself? Thanks.
You'll see. Remove the assembly from the hub using the "washer trick.' Slowly back off the nut and center screw. Take it apart. Put the ten springs in place, Then put the collar, called the pressure plate, in place and replace the center screw and nut. Now, you can install it back on the clutch hub. Be sure you get the right springs for your model. Adjust spacing for YOUR model. Should be just fine.
@@pacificmike9501 Thanks very much for the advice Mike! Would you go with stock H-D springs, if they're still available, or is there an advantage to after-market clutch springs like the ones offered by Barnett?
Thanx again Mike !
It's nice to know we're putting in what people want to see. We'll continue as things come up, however or whenever they do. Thank you.
Great video Mike. I feel like if I was that far into maintaining the clutch and giving it a general once over i'd want to clean and lubricate the clutch basket bearings and make sure that was all nice inside. What do you think?
Sure. Clean and lubed is the best. That stuff, well maintained, lasts a long time. And, the more you do it, the more you understand how the machine responds to good maintenance. Have fun.
Mike, I know this is an old video, but I have a question. I have an 80 fxwg with a chain primary, but I have a dry clutch. I put the aftermarket needle bearings on it with no cage (with a healthy amount of grease) and a 5 stud clutch hub. I noticed that when the bike is cold, the clutch chatters quite a bit when I take off. Once it warms up, it stops. I haven't taken it apart yet to see what's going on, but I was hoping you could point me in the right direction as to what to look for when I disassemble it.
EDIT: Probably worth noting it's a 93" S&S stroker kit.
The plates are probably sticking together. Most likely oil on the plates. Make sure it's breaking straight.
Mike, I will be servicing my servi-clutch and my basket has a wobble on the shaft, What am I getting myself into?
The basket would be wobbling on the hub. The hub could be wobbling on the mainshaft. I don't know which you have. Hard to say what you're getting in to.
Please help! It could be a little of this~little of that~ I know" and it's not in front of you. Hear is my issue, don't be scared, let me rephrase that, here's my bike's issue. Got tired of replacing crappy oil slingers and Waffle bushing throw out bearing, they kept wallering out the slot that it sits on on the rod, old guy told me to get an old original one, can't find one bought an aftermarket one, adjuster screw is properly adjusted, clutch hub springs I'm running lose as I can, because when I engage the clutch, it was eating up the push rod, had a machine shop make me some custom push rods much harder, now it's eating the adjustment screw, purchase one of those Rinky Dink aftermarket adjustment screws with a ball bearing in the end, it spins then it seizes then eats itself up. If I loosen things up then I don't have enough clutch to hold the bike still in gear. It does have an aftermarket pressure plate Open primary 5 finger. Think that pressure plates too thick giving me too much pressure on those Springs still? But if I loosen it I don't have any clutch, if I tighten it eats itself up. 😕
Well, you're right. I can't see it from here. Are the plates sliding on the fingers? Is the rod sliding easily through the mainshaft. Something is giving you way too much resistance.
@@pacificmike9501 That's my problem, if you don't know what it is, you check everything, I'm starting to think it's the aftermarket ...spring keeper ? Whatever you call it, ordered a Factory steel one that's thinner with the nuts that lock, thinking I have too much spring pressure. But... the thing is, it used to work with all the parts I have, it just kept wallering the hole out in the oil Slinger before I went to the old school beefy throw out. Thanks for responding all the same.
Great video .
Thank you. Glad you like it.
Great video Mike, I have a early 1984 FXRS Low Glide with a dry clutch will this work the same on my bike?
Thank You. And, pretty much.
Hey thanks for the video.. I have a 83 FXSB with a dry clutch belt setup. I'm getting a fair amount of oil in my clutch plates and the clutch is slipping. I do have a leak coming from my transmission drive gear seal. I am not seeing any oil leaking from the front crank seal. Is the trans causing the oil on my clutch plates? Do you have a video on removing the primary and changing the seal? This thing has been leaking for years now, and making a mess of my garage but I've been hesitant to tackle the job until I'm comfortable with it. It's long over due. Hoping for a point in the right direction with this. Thanks in advance.
I think we've shown all those things, maybe not in the order you're asking. The transmission has two seals on the left side. The mainshaft oil seal, as it is referred to in the parts book, is the large seal behind the sprocket. This and the spacer that runs inside it are generally the culprits that flood your garage floor. Next, the second offender, especially if you overfill your transmission, or your bike leans to the left too far, is the main drive gear oil seal (as it is referred to in the parts book). I believe you need to replace all of this stuff. Don't forget the clutch hub nut seal. You can stack two in the nut. We do have a video showing the installation of the inner primary, although it's not a belt drive. I hope this helps you.
@@pacificmike9501 looks like I need the parts book. You've been very helpful I greatly appreciate it. I gotta get that part number for the main seal bushing. I think that may be my issue as the previous owner did all the seals shortly before I bought the bike. Or so he says you know how that goes. ✌️
How much up and down play should my primary chain have? My manual doesn't say.
What is the motorcycle? Does it have a year of manufacture? Is it a Panhead? Shovelhead? Evo? Sportster? Do you have a year and model specific service manual? If so, it's in your service manual.
Mike is there any difference between a wet clutch or dry clutch in everyday operation ?
Yes. Wet clutches are nice. But, your system must be designed for it. A lot of the plates are "either or." But the rest of the system has to be made for it.
Hello Mike I see you have a belt drive and I did not see a vent on the primary cover ,,,is the old steel primary cove better for those belts than the late alum. covers ? I have had BAD luck with belts but had it on my 70 FLH ….you must like them any way let me know ...and thank you for keeping the old stuff running ….Bill
You know, this is just my personal preferences. On an old bike, with tin primaries and a kickstart, I love a belt drive. On a later bike, with aluminum housings and an electric start, I prefer a chain drive. I worked with belt drives back when they were a new thing and I've watched them improve. They're better than they've ever been. Proper alignment and tension is most important. Using today's Kevlar belts in tin primaries, I've had no problems.
thank you Mike I have never used a belt on a tin primary . beleve me I have put a lot of miles on a tin primary and if they work like you say well I am putting one on my 54 pan . thank you mike I love your lessons and after 55 years on the road I like that I can still learn things ….have a blessed day my brother ...Bill
Okay, now I feel I have a responsibility to you. I hope this helps you. These are my recommendations: First thing is, buy a motor seal. Colony is the only company I know of that makes it for your '54 ('37-'54). This is the toughest part of the whole operation. Removing the snap ring that holds the factory spacer in place is not easy. Then, remove the spacer and install the seal with the supplied snap ring. Then, remove the breather pipe from the motor and cut the curved end off of it so that the outlet of that tube is inboard of the primary. Reinstall the breather tube. Attach a rubber hose to it to vent it out the rear of the motorcycle without any oil going onto the rear tire. Now, turn the screw on the oil pump in so that it bottoms and no longer oils the chain which will no longer exist. Now, with the inner primary cover off, make sure both the sprocket shaft and transmission mainshaft are in the same plane, both up and down and side to side. I do this by installing both pulleys and laying a piece of glass on them and making sure it doesn't "rock." Now, put it all back together and install the belt with the tension "free play" or "slack" recommended by the manufacturer. I prefer a Kevlar belt . This is perfection to me. I always get a belt drive that will fit inside the stock primary covers. And, I still have both feet, as do my passengers. By the way, now you can travel great distances without having to stop and adjust the primary chain. And, you can park on people's driveways without having to apologize so much.
Mike, have you done a video on how to install an electric start on a 65?
I believe I have shown it on my Shovelhead. Look at our Shovelhead playlist. Is your electric starter system gone, or just replacing a starter? I assume you're speaking of a '65 Electraglide. But, you didn't say.
Pacific Mike Yes it’s a 65 Electraglide but it has a later model primary and started. I bought it as a basket case. It continually surprises me, I’m sorry to say. Got a Cycle Electric generator, a relay to the starter button as well. I’ve wired the bike but obviously I’ve done something wrong cause the wiring isn’t working. The starter is in pieces and I’m having difficulty figuring out the manual diagram. Thought if I watched you doing one it may help. Thanks.
I know this is 4 yrs old but I am hoping I can get some help.
I have a 1982 FXRS dry clutch with oiler. Plates were stuck so bad I could not put it into gear without stalling. I cleaned them with brake fluid and they worked great on a two hour ride. Bike sat for 10 days and when I tried to take it out the clutch was stuck again. This time I soaked the plates in mineral spirits overnight then scuffed them up with some 100 grit sandpaper, cleaned them and reinstalled. Steel plates were numbered and went back in order. Friction were not numbered and they are out of order. I lightly sanded the fingers. Did not yet test ride but I’m guessing it will feel great at first. I’m just worried they will be stuck again in another ten days.
Note: before taking off the cover I drained approx 16 oz of oil (60w). Should there be that much in there? I have the original set up, oiler off the tee and return to pump.
Note: plates were 80% covered in oil.
I used all new gaskets when putting together this time. I have no vacuum pump to check for leak.
Would wet/dry plates help me with situation?
Oil off the tee? Oil should come into the primary from the little skinny tube on top of the oil pump. Sounds like you may be flooding that primary. The big line with a tee is a breather from the motor back to the oil tank, with a tee huffing air into the primary. Then there is a line from the back corner of the primary back to the motor case.
@@pacificmike9501 sorry my rant may have been confusing. Mine is set up how you just explained, a line coming off the tee supplying oil to the chain. The return comes from the back of the primary and goes to the pump.
I don't think so. The little tube on top of the oil pump has a skinny little hose that slides onto a fitting on the inner primary that is pressed into the inner primary housing from the outside in and in the middle of the inside of that housing. Then, there is a breather hose that goes from the crankcase (above the oil pump) to the oil tank. That is a breather hose and it has a tee in it to go to the inner primary. Then, the oil return hose from the bottom rear corner of the primary returns oil to the crankcase through a fitting on the crankcase inboard of the oil pump. If this isn't clear enough, please look in your service manual. Getting these wrong can be catastrophic.
@@pacificmike9501 sorry you are correct. the return goes to the crankcase, not the pump. I checked the service and parts manual. that was very clear. actually following the lines under the bike, not so clear. I have the bike on one of those small lifts and the part that supports the frame is obstructing my view making it difficult to follow the lines. At first I thought they were reversed but I was able to confirm that they are correct.
SO if the oil lines are correct, gaskets are new, torque is correct, the system should work properly unless pulling air from shifter shaft?? I may not have time for a test ride until monday, then I can pull the drain plug and see how much oil accumulated this time, I am watching your Evo motor disasembly video while typing this, had to pause it lol.
Hi mike, I converted the primary to a belt drive on my shovelhead (1982) and replaced the friction discs at the same time. I see the bike you are working on in this video has 4 friction discs. Mine originally came with 5 so after the conversion I installed the 5 new friction discs that came in the pack but now I almost can't let the clutch slip, it's almost like it's either engaged or disengaged with no in between. My mechanic also noticed that the pack of plates was a bit too thick for its taste and we cannot remove tension on the spring anymore, the nuts are at the very end of the fingers. Would you say the clutch could have a better feel if I remove one friction disc even if it originally had 5? I would much appreciate to have your opinion. Thanks!
Not a problem. Original clutches used 5 fiber plates from '66-'84. Earlier ones used 4. Your belt drive clutch basket may be intended for 4. Still not a problem. Try 4 with 4 steels. The first plate in should be a steel because your clutch basket is most likely aluminum and needs a steel to keep from scoring from the spinning fiber disc that you will install next. Now alternate steel and fiber with the last plate installed to be a fiber. You should be good to go. Don't forget, if the steels have the buffers on them to "stagger" them for clearance. Don't forget to get the measurement from the edge of the "pressure plate" to the releasing disc to be as close to 1 and 1/32" as close as possible and even all the way around.
@@pacificmike9501 Thanks a lot, I can't wait to give it a shot! I really like your videos btw.
Hey Mike! Love your videos! I have a 1980 FXWG. I've been fighting the clutch for a little while and have a question about it. The service manual speaks to setting the clutch arm on the transmission 13/16" from the tower on the transmission as the first adjustment your do. I however have yet to see anyone actually do this when adjusting their clutch. All the folks I have talked to and videos I've watched essentially show the same procedure you're doing. Was this a pointless step from HD?
Not at all. In fact, I have suggested it before. The manual is the place to start. And, that adjustment, using the late tranny lid, is the way to go. It's hard to get in there with your little ruler and it seems dumb, but it's the best starting place for your adjustment.
@@pacificmike9501 So just a follow-up, the manual says to loosen the pushrod lock-nut and turn the screw out then use the adjusting sleeve to bring the release lever forward. I have heard of people instead using the adjusting screw to set the 13/16" gap at the release lever, then adjusting the cable. It seems like it accomplishes the same thing. What do you think? (note: I use a little ruler from a set of feeler gauges that I've marked the 13/16" line with a sharpie to get in there. Throw a magnet on top to keep it in place and you're all set.)
I think you're doing great. What you're doing is getting an understanding of how it really works. If you use the adjusting screw to set the arm position, while you hold onto the cable sleeve (which has been backed off completely), back off the screw just a little to make sure the throwout bearing is not under a load. Gotta have a little freeplay. Get your cable adjusted without loosing that freeplay. Don't be surprised if it isn't perfect right off the bat. Do it some more. Remember to lube the cable and the hand lever. Lube where the end of the cable seats into the clutch arm. All of these things are important so the parts wear longer and are a pleasure to use.
I got a trick I use for the same procedure. Just take a piece of fuel line about 6 or 8 inches long and put it on the end of a spark plug that is 13/16 and use that as a feeler gauge sort of between the top of the tranny and the clutch arm. It beats hell out of trying to hold a ruler or anything in there.
@@JimShai-yf4et That's a great tip!
On my 79 lowrider,it had two fiber plates against each other at the end is that right
No, there should be a steel between them.
Bob ross fixes harleys....
Thank you, glad you like our stuff.
Thank you.
The old Shovel I bought has a belt primary drive. The belt was oily and damaged. I've read that belts need to be ventilated. The one on your Knuckle is fully enclosed. So did my belt get hot or was oil the cause ? My clutch derby cover and front of the primary cover is ventilated.
Good questions, not much information, but I'll try. First, find out where the oil is coming from. It could be the motor seal. It could be from a no longer needed primary chain oiler. It could be leaking in from somewhere else. Next comes your question on heating. I don't know what primary covers you're using. The old belts were made of rubber. Today's belts are made of Kevlar and are far more durable. I only run belts inside tin covers, which are not sealed up, and therefore just don't seem to heat up much. I've run them for many years and it gets real hot here in the summer. But, venting is not a bad thing. Oil is very hard on belts, but age and nasty things in the air deteriorates them, even the Sun's rays. Last is alignment and tension. Best to consult the manufacturer on your particular unit. I hope this helps. Good luck.
Possible leak from the clutch push rod in the center of the clutch hub nut (left hand thread nut with locking washer. There is a small seal that will leak tranny oil on the discs and plates.
Is there any difference to conducting maintenance on the 45"? I have a 1942 WLA and would like to do check the clutch on it.
Pretty much the same. Check your manual for any measurements.
O YA THANKS 4 THE REVIEW I DID SUBSCRIBE SMOKEY JOE
Thank You.