I bought this to use as my ignition switch on a 1963 Bolens 800 riding mower ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxaAnMgzTZ_djF6K1Kr3MGiW_XGUMfUP8n I repowered with a 13hp Predator engine. Worked great! On the back of this switch are 5 terminals labeled G, M, L, S, and B. The G was wired straight to ground, The S was wired from the back of the switch to my starter solenoid. The L is for any accessories, so I ran it from the L terminal to a rear light I have on the riding mower. M is for the coil, so I plugged the stock coil wire to this wire terminal. The B is for constant battery power, so this was wired to the positive battery cable. I turn the key, first click is the accessory position, and my rear light came on as expected. Turned the key all the way and Vroom...the engine started. Turn it back to the off position, and the engine turned off. Perfect! Hope this helps!
Thank you thank you thank you for posting this video!!!!!!!! After a week of trying to figure why my mower wouldnt start after I gave it a hosing.. it was the fuse!!!!!!
Thank you for posting this. I tested everything but the solenoid and was just about to give up. Installed a new $14 solenoid and voila the grass gets mowed again! Big thumbs up!
I have spent the past week trying to figure out what is wrong with my MTD. Bought a new ignition switch, but no help. You video has given me a very good, systematic way of trouble-shooting the problem. Thank you for posting.
great tutorial. I went thru all the switches on mine, then removed and tested the solenoid exactly as your video showed. it clicked but not consistently. I filed the corrosion off of the post, put it all back together and it fired first try. Thanks!
Thanks so much for the reply. unfortunately the battery cable was the very last thing I checked and you were spot on. IT was loose. However It did cut off again after I retightened it and for some reason the seat safety had an issue. I put a paper clip to tie the safety together just to see if that would fix the problem and it started right up. I will have to replace the seat safety. Thanks so much for putting out such a great video. It is always a great feeling when you don't have to lug your ride to some mechanic just to replace something as simple as what I had. At least in watching your video I had a more confident place to start then just wondering what to do. Thanks again. Peace, Reese
thanks for the most complete and intelligent explanation. I have a craftsman DLT3000, ran great all summer.went to use it yesterday ,no sound at all. the battery checks at 13 volts .the solinoid was replaced(4 post). Now when you hit the starter with the key the power is active through both lower posts ,only one top post. any ideas
Great straight to the point video. But you forgot to mention that the ignition switch can also cause this issue and show the process for testing. This may leave a lot of your viewers confused if that ends up being the culprit...
bigden31 You are correct. There are a variety of other issues that could cause an electrical malfunction. This was not an all inclusive list of potential issues but it addresses the primary culprits.
I have a Cub Cadet GT 1554 (another fine MTD product). It has been occasionally hard to start. I am not sure if I have a bad alternator or starter. I just recently replaced the battery. Sometimes it will start but just barely. I sometimes have to reach under it with a breaker bar and socket and turn the engine a bit so the starter will turn it. This tractor has not been a maintenance hog. All I ever had to do was change a bad ignition coil that made it run badly. There are two on this one, it is a twin cylinder engine with a vertical shaft. The only thing that I ever found annoying about this one is that I had to choke it almost every time I start it and it has been that way for years but always started up and never gave me trouble, other than that and that previously mentioned bad coil which made it perform lousily. I am suspecting a bad alternator or starter. The only thing I do not like about that alternator is that it is not like the type found on modern car engines but rather it is buried under a few things and is really a part of the engine itself. I wonder if it was done to save space because that is the one and *ONLY* valid reason to design something that way. Once in the past I changed the starter because the gear on it was sticking in the up position (not a solenoid type starter). The starter motor is still good and I still have it but I have since removed that gear, there is a difficult to remove ring that holds it on there and likely there is a special tool a starter and alternator shop might have to work with such rings because they are *not* easy to remove. This lawn tractor has been rather trouble free other than having to replace those parts and of course, I do change spark plugs. I have changed a couple bad mower spindles too and they lasted surprisingly long. They do have Zerk fittings on them of course and I like that. What I don't like so much are supposedly "permanently lubricated" parts. That reminds me of how a lot of car manufacturers to to bull shit you into thinking you have a low maintenance vehicle by telling you (with forked toung apparently) that you never need to change transmission fluid. That has gotten so bad now that the newer cars are being advertised as having oil change intervals of 15,000 miles or more. I don't know who they think they are trying to bull shit with that because I have never, ever seen an oil I would use that long in any car or anything else for that matter.
When you mentioned it barely starts do you mean it turns over slowly then starts, turns over normally but takes a while to start, or that it hesitates before even turning over? With more detail, I could recommend a few things. Mine was fairly maintenance free as well. I now have a Cub Cadet and other than minor maintenance that I would consider routine it has been a great tractor. Let me know how I can help you.
Indeed I found some very useful information here I once upon a time heard it said information is hard to find I do think it to be true How ever it is again in the search and how badly an individual wants to learn the answer Been fighting with stuff someone else did And trying to get it back to right Always the same thing with a used anything Now I am neither satisfied yet to say I have the answer but I can say I know it's closer to the point Yep to many things can cause a no start like in cars although very different With what I learned here should be able to get back out there and cut some grass Thank you for shareing
I had changed the solenoid on my Craftsman less than 3 years ago. I think it may be time to change it again. I avoided it and went for all the switches (well nearly, I forgot the brake switch) for what I would consider the usual self talk "I just changed that thing not too long ago". But I'm thinking it is the solenoid for 2 reasons : 1) The battery is completely charged (12.8V), and 2) I'm not getting a click when I try to start. If the brake switch and solenoid are not the problem, then it's the wiring (the thing is almost 30 yo). And I'd just as soon take a flamethrower to it as to track down every inch of wiring. I may as well rewire it at that point; If one has gone, the others won't be far behind.
@TightWadDIY Yes. It was good. Actually, I tried starting it yesterday on a whim & it started. Now I'm thinking it might be the ignition coils (gets hot then won't start if shut off), but it had to sit for over 24hrs.
After 3 days, I finally got the starter motor to engage. The problem was not enough ground (neg). The black cable from battery to the frame was dirty and corroded where it fastens to the frame. The lock washer was between the frame and cable, instead of on top of the cable end and under the nut. Woopy! Now I get no fire to the plug. At the switch, the red/white from the battery connects to the lights, but doesn't connect to Ign when I turn the key to Ign. Connection is only from red/white wire to a red wire, no other wire. I'm not sure where the red wire goes. To Ign coil? The seat being down with my weight on it would not affect the connections inside the switch. No wires to kill switch under the seat.
Thank you for the clear instructions. My Craftsman is set up exactly as this MTD. Solenoid and two safety switches tested fine though. Solenoid makes high pitch sound when trying to start. Any ideas of what I can try next?
You got it man. My mower is doing that, turn the key and nothing no click or anything. So went ahead and picked up a solenoid just in case. After the rain stops I'll check everything out! Troy bilt pony, but exact same mower besides a Briggs engine
@@TightWadDIY Yes-- I narrowed it down as to why its tripping it = when I engage the blade it trips the fuse! There must be a faulty switch somewhere... any tips on that?
Hey my neighbors john deere 286 27hp stopped during cut we found 1 broken coil wire right away. so he got a new coil and 2 new spark plugs i installed them figured we where good i tried starting it , it does turn over i checked gas from tank to carb ( it has a cam operated fuel pump im getting gas into cylinders and blowing it out the exhaust with no sound of spark we figured maybe the ignition module was bad so we replaced that also all saftys checked out because motor turns over just no spark ? Help it just rained and theres over 1 acre to mow im not feeling 22" of cut at a time 🙏 please any thing os helpful its an older tractor and a work horse when running and old jims pride&joy thanks.
1996 Toro Wheel Horse 265-H.Mower started fine. Pulled it off the pavement onto the thick grass. Lifted up the PTO to start the blades and the mower just cut off.I tried to start it again, I pushed the PTO back in, made sure the brake was on, turned the key off, pulled it out, put it back in, while sitting on the seat, and never got off of the seat at any time during this.I tried to start it. I got nothing. Mower will not start at all. No clicks, ticks, nothing as if I am not even turning the key. Lights will not come on when the key is turned and did prior.This happened once before, think it was a fuse or switch but do not know what to check, and cost me a lot to have someone else fix it. I would like to fix this myself. I keep the mower on a battery tender Jr. all the time and the battery was fully charged. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated ? Peace, Mo mogundrum@gmail.com
It sounds like you have a blown fuse or loose battery cable. Check to make sure both battery cables are tight at the terminal then follow them and check that they are secure on the other end. Next, follow the red battery cable from the battery terminal and you should find the fuse. If you don't have a tester just replace it because they are cheap. Let me know if neither of these things fix it.
+TightWadRepairs Thanks so much for the reply. unfortunately the battery cable was the very last thing I checked and you were spot on. IT was loose. However It did cut off again after I retightened it and for some reason the seat safety had an issue. I put a paper clip to tie the safety together just to see if that would fix the problem and it started right up. I will have to replace the seat safety. Thanks so much for putting out such a great video. It is always a great feeling when you don't have to lug your ride to some mechanic just to replace something as simple as what I had. At least in watching your video I had a more confident place to start then just wondering what to do. Thanks again. Peace, Reese/Mo
there is an easyer way to check solenoid when you turn key to startmak sure brake pedal is down should aleast get a click if solenoidis bad to prove this short out 2 big lugs on the solenoid should spin starter if battery is good replace solenoid the short took the place of key switch so that put the tble in the solenoid
I have a Brigg's and Stratton 15.5 H.P. Engine on my rider. I've Replaced the Battery, Starter, Solenoid, Switches, Magneto, I've checked the Ground and All Wiring and Ignition Switch. Damn thing Still WON'T Start. Turn Key and get Click,Click, but that's it. Is it Possesed or what? Any Idea's? Besides trading it for some Goat's or Sheep.
+Mike Link Wow. It sounds like you have checked almost everything. Look up Taryl Fixes All on here and ask him. He has a mower shop and has seen it all I'm sure.
Thanks, I've watched His Video's and have checked all the things he shows. Still No Luck. Guess I'll just have to Start from A and go to Z Again. Usually it's some small thing that's missed. In the meantime I'll be Rustling some Goat's. lol
Hello Mike, make sure the new battery has enough cranking amps at least 275, I prefer 300 and that the battery connections are clean and tight, also make sure your motor is not locked up, turn the engine over by hand if the engine is not able to be turned over by hand you may have a locked motor, hope this info helps.
I have resolved the Problem. I did what donyboy73 showed in his video. I Adjusted the Valves and it Cranked right up and Is Running Fine. Some of these other guys video's helped also as far as Checking for Possible Electrical issues.
Ron Pettigrew If you hear the click, it sounds like an issue with the starter. The click you hear is solenoid so the safety switches, battery, fuse, and solenoid should be good. Test for voltage at the starter.
Last weekend I took a hammer and dented in the back of the frame of my cub cadet 42" lawn tractor to I could hook my trailer up to it sat back on it and it would not start. (Wouldn't even turn over). I went through all the safety switches, the clutch, the seat, and the pto and they all checked out ok. I hooked jumper cables up to the starter and it turned. I tested the starter solenoid (I did not realize it was mounted on the back right where I was beating on and it is good.) I'm lost and don't know why I am not getting power to my starter? Anybody got something to check?
Aaron Hubbard The fuse is also located in the back of the mower. Did you check it? You may have crimped a wire when you bent the sheet metal. Did you test the voltage coming into the solenoid when you turn the key? If you aren't getting 12v on that spade, work your way back to the battery from there. Maybe a cable is just loose.
Bobby Cox You likely have an issue with your drive belt. Check out my video on how to replace your upper and lower drive belt and it should fix your issue.
I can't tell you how thankful I am for you and your video. I am 55, disabled female, with severe trouble with my hands and on a very low income. I asked 4 different men to help me fix my mower and got no offers. I searched on-line and found your video and watched. Then over a period of 3 days, started checking all the points of contracts on the kill switches. I got to the solenoid, which I cried a lot over, because it has painful to get my hands inside the battery box and fender. But I did it, tested it as you showed and nothing. Ordered a new one and installed the next day. Turned the key and shouted out in joy and my mower started up, because this girl was able to do it with your help. Thank you so much.
@Donna Brown...Good for you!! I had a stroke, so I know full well what your going through. I used to do this stuff all the time, now it takes quite a lot longer to get anything done.
¹Good morning I hope everything everything OK haven't heard from you in a a security security today and I am not not if you are are of of but I I wanted wanted know know you you to to to get get raise To To off the the of the the people in the morning and and I q11 q11 q112q2121121 2122212112111 q1²q1 2122q2qq2q222qqq2q2q2q2qqqq2qq2qqq2qq2q2q2qq2q2q2q2q2qqq2qq2qqqqq2q2qq2q2q 222qq2q2q22qq2qq2q2q2q2qq22 q2q2q2qq2qq2q2q q222q22q2 q21 q121q2qqqq q q2 q2 q1212qq2q 2q q1122q22q2qqqq2q I q11qqqqq q112q2qqqqqqqq q22qqq2qqqqqqq2q2qqqqqqq2qqq2qqqq2q2qq2qq2qq2qqq2q2qqqqqqqqqqqqqq121qqqqqq q11q2q2qq2qqq2qqqqqqq2q2qqqqq2qqqqqqqqqqqqqq2qqqqq q2qqq q2qqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqq2qqqqqqq I q11qqqqq2qqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqq2qqqqqq2qqqqqqqqqqqqqqqq2qqqqqqqq21qq2 q11qqqqqqqqqq q121qqqqqqqqqqq and q11qq q1 q11qqqqq q11qqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqq q11qqqq q11qqqq q11qqq q21qqqqq q11qq2q q11qq2qqqqqqqq2qqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqq2qqqq and q11qqqqqq q21q I q11qqqqqq q11qqq q q11qqq q11qqqqqqqq q11qqqq2q I q11qqqqqqqqqqqq q11qqqqqqqq q q21 I don't q1 q11qqqqqq2qqq2qqqqqq q11qqqqqq2qqq2qqqqqq q11qqqqqq2qqq2qqqqqq think q11q2qq q11qqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqq11qqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqq2qqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqq
Thanks for showing us how to test solenoids. I had a solenoid problem too that was nothing more than the positive cable severed off from the solenoid. The cable is moved back and forth all the time when disconnecting and reconnecting the battery to the point that eventually one or two strands hold to the solenoid.
Good video but it’s much faster if you first check the fuse then the starter then the solenoid. Then work your way through the safety switches. If you have power at the starter or the solenoid then you know the safety switches are good. It can save you the time and trouble of having to test each switch.
The solenoid locations are ridiculous and hard to deal with. Now I have to go recheck my ground. I have to disconnect and remove my battery just to get to it and have to reinstall everything just to TEST it. In 3 seasons, my solenoid has failed 3 times. Why couldn't it be something easy. Good video and good camera work. Thanks for the help.
Everything you did perfect, but I did all that and nothing happens, my problem was the clutch spring break and don't allow me to press the safely switch.
Hey mate on start my solonoid is getting 12v - but the problem is it's getting 12v to both wires. As one should be a negative it's not working - any insight on why this is I've checked all the switches battery and key switch all fine.
@@rockybasnayaka5289 Not sure what's going on there. I would disconnect the black wire from solenoid, then run a separate jumper wire from the now open tab on the solenoid to the negative terminal on battery. Then see if it starts. This is bypassing the saftey switches so do at your own risk. If it does not start try jumping the soleniod terminals with a screwdriver, if that starts it then the soleniod is bad and starter is good. Please let us know if it works. I'm betting it will.
@@Old600Rusty thanks for the reply mate. I've tried jumping the solenoid and it works when the kill wire if off the coil. I'll try what you've suggested with the black wire to buypass the safety switches. This mower is a swiss stiga. The worst mower I've ever had to work on. Can't find anything in English for this, can it be a control unit issue? This had a blown camshaft and I've tried jumping it a lot of times. Now the engine is all sorted but have the issue with starting as above.
Before you test any switch you need to know if it is N.O. normally opened or (N.C.) normally closed. a wiring diagram for your machine will tell you how the switch operates. Sometimes it's very difficult to find the correct wiring diagram because of age or in some cases it has been discontinued.
William Davis It’s helpful to know but not a necessity in this case. As long as one side functions one way and the other side functions the opposite then you are good.
Great video and to the point. I have a kubota zero turn, clicks and solenoid tested good, and will start if you make the solenoid connection with a wrench, but not turning the key?
That is really odd. So you hear the solenoid click when you turn the key but the engine doesn’t turn over at all? Then when you jump the terminals on the solenoid it starts? If it didn’t click when you turned the key I would say it’s the key switch.
@@TightWadDIY I was mistaken in that I did hear a click, but something else clicks when you turn the key , and was NOT the solenoid, tested the switch and that was it. The first 2 switch positions worked but not when you turned to crank. Replaced it, good to go, thanks for your pointers!
Hello TightwaddyDIY: Your video helped me order a new solenoid. I removed old solenoid and now hoping that new solenoid gets my craftsman riding mower again !!
video helped me thanks .i noticed that red wire attached to the cylinoid is not attached yo the cylinoid on my mower so that should be the problem .thanks
Been thru all this and still haven't figured out my problem. So annoyed test good Ignition switch test good PTO switch test good blade engagement switch test good I have 12 V to the left side of cylon oi'd no power at the starter. Fuse test good starter task good I believe I have a ground issue what do you think?
Hi good videos I have a cub cadet model 17brcaca009, when I start it start but when the blade start working cutting for five minute slow down and turn it off , then I start again it start bit do the same thing, any idea what wrong with it
Why is that I bought 4 switches all of them I made the test on the 4 terminals only button push down it has continuity but not with button up ! Why is that???? It supposedly one side button push down= continuity Other side button out = continuity too !!!
Thank you sir. Mower wasn't giving any heart beat at all. I thought it was electrical. And your video helped me a lot. It was a loose connection at the break switch.. Once again thank you a lot! Blessings!!
TightWad it was my starter solenoid and battery, a Big Thank You! i can now cut my grass, my nephew fixed it for me, i done some bartering on the labor.
Great video and well explained, I’ve got a newer model, same principle, my problem is intermittent sometimes turns over then won’t, I will follow your advice and post what I find, happy mowing all !
Nice video and thorough. I had the same problem, not even a clicking sound. Turned out to be a kill switch. You saved me a lot of money with this. Thank you!
+TightWadRepairs It is a 20+ year old mower but still kicking. Also learned to do a carburetor rebuild to keep it going a few years ago. I love UA-cam... even learned to replace the igniter in our gas oven.
Can't thank you enough...... After going thru the steps mine was the switch under the brake. After putting new blades and belt on' my girlfriend some how cocked it sideways while helping me. Again....thanks
Awesome video. I've been checking out videos on this topic and this is the clearest, most concise step by step one I've seen yet. By the way... it's a solenoid, not a sillynoid, silly!
My tractor is drivin me nuts! Jon deer sabre 38inch ct with 15.5 hp brigs .ahhhh! K .i followed a video on bypassing all the safety switches snip the line which on mine its the purple one. .cut it bout 2 ft down re splice it to the same wire at the ignition. Boom! Simple! It worked flawlessly for bout a hour .now? My tractor start up for a min. Mabe 2 then just dies out .??? I cant figure out whats the matter?something so simple is drivin me bonkers!! Any idea please?
For my MTD, the problem was with the Brake Switch, the Plastic Plunger was bending to the side of the piece of metal that pushes it down, so it was never getting closed.
I put a new Solonoid in when I turn the key I’m getting a clicking noise but still not starting I keep getting sparks from where it’s grounded would that be a bad ground connection this is on a mtd j116 model
thanks ,my husqvarna 46,had a no start,I've replaced various things,but this was great use if continuity tester,my battery is good,...lights are independent of keyswitch,anyhow I moved it and it started working again,could be parking switch,anyhow feeling confident, I've set the air gap on magnetos,adjusted choke,and it starts easier,dad was so good with a meter ,now it's my turn to learn, I know theres lots of variations ,and a few similarities,I subbed to your channel,
6 years later and your video is still helping people. I am repairing a Zero Turn Toro mower that is a no crank no start. I suspect the starter but will go through and check all of the safety switches using my multimeter first so I don't become a part changer. I hope it is not the starter because it is a pain to get to. I have replaced one before and it was almost impossible. It has the solenoid attached to the starter. I am going to try hitting it gently at first to see if it is stuck.
PLEASE CONTINUE POSTING STEP BY STEP VIDEOS. I'm having an issue with my old school rear engine, Snapper SR riding mover. The issue is when turning the motor with my hands, it only goes so far and stop. When I attempt to start it, it stops at the same position that I was turning it with my hands. I'm thinking that the chuck key on it is out of line. If you could share your opinion, I would greatly appreciate it, or email me at northernflavor@aol.com.
Well maybe this is where I need to start...pardon the pun. My mower will start, at first, run for about 10 mins, then start surging & die. Replaced fuel filter. Same thing. Replaced vacuum hose between fuel pump & ...going blank. Anyway, did that. Same thing. So once it dies, it won't start again. Not right away. No click, no nothing when I turn the key. If I wait 10 mins or so, it will start, run a few minutes, then it's lather, rinse, repeat. I'm a 57 yr old female disabled vet on a fixed income, so I always try to fix things myself, cuz having someone else do it (repair shop) is 'spensive! And the only thing I'm scared of is electricity. Like I don't want to be anywhere near where someone says it's hot, live, or energized. But I'm working through it. Switched out ceiling fans, replaced light switched & plug-ins, etc. So I want to thank you for the step by step, SAFE & easy way to go through the testing process video!! I'll be nervous, but I'll get through it. The Lord always has His protection around me. So bless you for helping! 🙏🙌
Thank you for showing us the switches and how to test them. I just changed the same solenoid on my neighbor's mower. Her Daddy's friend took it off 2 weeks ago and didn't come back. I learned how to put it back properly.
you dont have to remove solenoid to test it as you turn switch key to start with brake pedal down it sends 12 v to small post on solenoid this operates a magnet in side solenoid causing two big post to short inside solenoid this sends 12v and high amperage to starter to make it spin--------- you can bypass key and brake pedal by shorting 2 big posts on solenoid the few sparks dont hurt any thing on the post if stater spins it tells you battery and starter is good
Thanks for the video.I have a John Deere Sabre that will not start. I have replaced the starter switch and solenoid. Checked all for continuity and every part seems to be fine. I replaced the fuse. Still nothing when I turn the key. I have jump started it but when I take my foot off the brake it stalls. What have I missed or done wrong?
Just cut all the safety switches out. Once u do that u will have your magneto wire which mines yellow coming from key switch and u have to hook that to the black kill wire coming off the coil which usually runs down to a connector and turns into the same color wire on other side of the connector
This was very helpful but could you please do a video more in depth of the wiring going to the solenoid. I have a loose green wire that I believe going with the ground but I'm not too sure where it goes.thanks
Thanks so much for getting back with me.. Ok this is what I did... I ran a wire from the hot side of the solenoid to little wire on the solenoid and it turned over..so now I know it's not the solenoid.. next I did the same thing but I turned the key to the run position and pulled down on the break engaging the killswitch and it started.. so now I know it's not the solenoid or the killswitch to the break..I'm thinking either a broke wire or the ignition switch is out...
Don't get me wrong it was a very informative video on how to troubleshoot so thank you very much but I just wanted to point out the safety issue also!!!
I don't understand how the solenoid can be installed the wrong way! You can put the large red wires on either of the large bolts//studs and the smaller wires on either of the other two contacts.
michael depaepe Did you recently work on your belts? The PTO lever engages a tension pulley which makes the blades engage. Check the tension pulley to make sure the spring is still attached.
This was great, I have this issue with my mower and your Video was quick and to the point. I think it is the PTO switch for the blade you showed first. Funny a lawnmower repair place to me that has nothing to do with it, it just stops the motor. Thanks
Good description. I have a no-start problem, too. My voltmeter reads 12V across the battery, but the lights do not turn on. I'm going to take the battery to Interstate today to double check it. The tractor is a 25 year old Cub Cadet with a rwo-year old battery, the switches are hard to get to. The body is one piece, and I have to remove the fuel tank to get to the ignition and PTO switches. Any recommendations to find the problem without disassembling it?
Mark Hanson Does it click when you turn the key? If not, can you get to the solenoid? If so, try jumping it with an insulated handle screw driver. Also check the fuse.
Very good video. I have a Yard Machines friend lawnmower tractor. It has this very same problem. I cannot find a fuse anywhere. I changed the solenoid and ignition switch and check on the switches you were talking about in this video and get no progress. Please help. God bless you and thank you so much for sharing this video.
The fuse should be between the battery and the solenoid. It’s hard to find the issue without looking at it myself. It could be the key switch but that’s less common.
I have a 1018 club cadet want crank turn switch on lights comes on but want,start up u have to jump it off by the starter to crank .it have 3 safty switches ,seat sw not the problem ,I don't think park switch Is the problem could it be the clutch safety sWitch
I've watched SOOOO many videos on Craftsman riding mowers I thought my head was going to pop. You were very good! I changed my solenoid (had same problem as you) but still won't start. I can jump it. And it will start. But I was wanting to know if you would do an ignition removal video because I think that's my problem. Thank you forsuch clear, concise, & detailed video. -Lynn
RRePETE Unfortunately, I don't have this mower anymore so I am unable to make new videos. I think you are on the right track though. The ignition switch has to send a charge to the solenoid to make it work. It could still be a kill switch though.
I bought this to use as my ignition switch on a 1963 Bolens 800 riding mower ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxaAnMgzTZ_djF6K1Kr3MGiW_XGUMfUP8n I repowered with a 13hp Predator engine. Worked great! On the back of this switch are 5 terminals labeled G, M, L, S, and B. The G was wired straight to ground, The S was wired from the back of the switch to my starter solenoid. The L is for any accessories, so I ran it from the L terminal to a rear light I have on the riding mower. M is for the coil, so I plugged the stock coil wire to this wire terminal. The B is for constant battery power, so this was wired to the positive battery cable. I turn the key, first click is the accessory position, and my rear light came on as expected. Turned the key all the way and Vroom...the engine started. Turn it back to the off position, and the engine turned off. Perfect! Hope this helps!
Thank you thank you thank you for posting this video!!!!!!!! After a week of trying to figure why my mower wouldnt start after I gave it a hosing.. it was the fuse!!!!!!
Yes! I’m glad you found my video! I have a lot of other repair videos, so be sure to subscribe.
Thank you for posting this. I tested everything but the solenoid and was just about to give up. Installed a new $14 solenoid and voila the grass gets mowed again! Big thumbs up!
That’s great news!
I have spent the past week trying to figure out what is wrong with my MTD. Bought a new ignition switch, but no help. You video has given me a very good, systematic way of trouble-shooting the problem. Thank you for posting.
Gene Ballay You are welcome. The electrical issues are the most frustrating. Be sure to subscribe. I have several videos for this mower.
great tutorial. I went thru all the switches on mine, then removed and tested the solenoid exactly as your video showed. it clicked but not consistently. I filed the corrosion off of the post, put it all back together and it fired first try. Thanks!
y2knole That is awesome! I’m glad you were able to get it fixed. Be sure to subscribe!
Thank you! Great video. Watched several other videos, yours is the only one that helped....I had a bad solenoid.
Keep the videos coming!
Glad you were able to find the issue. Electrical issues can be the hardest to diagnose.
one of the best videos for diagnosing the safety switches I've seen!
Mural Cook I’m glad you found it helpful. Be sure to subscribe.
Thanks so much for the reply. unfortunately the battery cable was the very last thing I checked and you were spot on. IT was loose. However It did cut off again after I retightened it and for some reason the seat safety had an issue. I put a paper clip to tie the safety together just to see if that would fix the problem and it started right up. I will have to replace the seat safety. Thanks so much for putting out such a great video. It is always a great feeling when you don't have to lug your ride to some mechanic just to replace something as simple as what I had. At least in watching your video I had a more confident place to start then just wondering what to do. Thanks again. Peace, Reese
Bingo! Debris on the blade cutout...if it weren't for your helpful video, I wouldn't have known about it. Thank you!
thanks for the most complete and intelligent explanation. I have a craftsman DLT3000, ran great all summer.went to use it yesterday ,no sound at all. the battery checks at 13 volts .the solinoid was replaced(4 post). Now when you hit the starter with the key the power is active through both lower posts ,only one top post. any ideas
Great straight to the point video. But you forgot to mention that the ignition switch can also cause this issue and show the process for testing. This may leave a lot of your viewers confused if that ends up being the culprit...
bigden31 You are correct. There are a variety of other issues that could cause an electrical malfunction. This was not an all inclusive list of potential issues but it addresses the primary culprits.
I have a Cub Cadet GT 1554 (another fine MTD product). It has been occasionally hard to start. I am not sure if I have a bad alternator or starter. I just recently replaced the battery. Sometimes it will start but just barely. I sometimes have to reach under it with a breaker bar and socket and turn the engine a bit so the starter will turn it. This tractor has not been a maintenance hog. All I ever had to do was change a bad ignition coil that made it run badly. There are two on this one, it is a twin cylinder engine with a vertical shaft. The only thing that I ever found annoying about this one is that I had to choke it almost every time I start it and it has been that way for years but always started up and never gave me trouble, other than that and that previously mentioned bad coil which made it perform lousily. I am suspecting a bad alternator or starter. The only thing I do not like about that alternator is that it is not like the type found on modern car engines but rather it is buried under a few things and is really a part of the engine itself. I wonder if it was done to save space because that is the one and *ONLY* valid reason to design something that way. Once in the past I changed the starter because the gear on it was sticking in the up position (not a solenoid type starter). The starter motor is still good and I still have it but I have since removed that gear, there is a difficult to remove ring that holds it on there and likely there is a special tool a starter and alternator shop might have to work with such rings because they are *not* easy to remove.
This lawn tractor has been rather trouble free other than having to replace those parts and of course, I do change spark plugs. I have changed a couple bad mower spindles too and they lasted surprisingly long. They do have Zerk fittings on them of course and I like that. What I don't like so much are supposedly "permanently lubricated" parts. That reminds me of how a lot of car manufacturers to to bull shit you into thinking you have a low maintenance vehicle by telling you (with forked toung apparently) that you never need to change transmission fluid. That has gotten so bad now that the newer cars are being advertised as having oil change intervals of 15,000 miles or more. I don't know who they think they are trying to bull shit with that because I have never, ever seen an oil I would use that long in any car or anything else for that matter.
When you mentioned it barely starts do you mean it turns over slowly then starts, turns over normally but takes a while to start, or that it hesitates before even turning over? With more detail, I could recommend a few things.
Mine was fairly maintenance free as well. I now have a Cub Cadet and other than minor maintenance that I would consider routine it has been a great tractor.
Let me know how I can help you.
Indeed I found some very useful information here
I once upon a time heard it said information is hard to find I do think it to be true
How ever it is again in the search and how badly an individual wants to learn the answer
Been fighting with stuff someone else did
And trying to get it back to right
Always the same thing with a used anything
Now I am neither satisfied yet to say I have the answer but I can say I know it's closer to the point
Yep to many things can cause a no start like in cars although very different
With what I learned here should be able to get back out there and cut some grass
Thank you for shareing
My pleasure.
That seems to be the problem I have in my Ariens. Thanks, I'll test the solenoid now that I learned how to do it.
Melina rada johnson I'm always happy to help.
great job making this video
Why thank you!
I had changed the solenoid on my Craftsman less than 3 years ago. I think it may be time to change it again. I avoided it and went for all the switches (well nearly, I forgot the brake switch) for what I would consider the usual self talk "I just changed that thing not too long ago". But I'm thinking it is the solenoid for 2 reasons : 1) The battery is completely charged (12.8V), and 2) I'm not getting a click when I try to start. If the brake switch and solenoid are not the problem, then it's the wiring (the thing is almost 30 yo). And I'd just as soon take a flamethrower to it as to track down every inch of wiring. I may as well rewire it at that point; If one has gone, the others won't be far behind.
Did you check the fuse between the battery and solenoid?
@TightWadDIY Yes. It was good. Actually, I tried starting it yesterday on a whim & it started. Now I'm thinking it might be the ignition coils (gets hot then won't start if shut off), but it had to sit for over 24hrs.
After 3 days, I finally got the starter motor to engage. The problem was not enough ground (neg). The black cable from battery to the frame was dirty and corroded where it fastens to the frame. The lock washer was between the frame and cable, instead of on top of the cable end and under the nut. Woopy!
Now I get no fire to the plug. At the switch, the red/white from the battery connects to the lights, but doesn't connect to Ign when I turn the key to Ign. Connection is only from red/white wire to a red wire, no other wire. I'm not sure where the red wire goes. To Ign coil? The seat being down with my weight on it would not affect the connections inside the switch. No wires to kill switch under the seat.
Thank you for the clear instructions. My Craftsman is set up exactly as this MTD. Solenoid and two safety switches tested fine though. Solenoid makes high pitch sound when trying to start. Any ideas of what I can try next?
I figured out battery is faulty. Tested fine, but tested again while starting and only putting out 4 to 5 volts.
Life saver. Appreciate it big time!!
John Wiechel You are welcome. I have several videos for this mower. Be sure to subscribe.
You got it man. My mower is doing that, turn the key and nothing no click or anything. So went ahead and picked up a solenoid just in case. After the rain stops I'll check everything out! Troy bilt pony, but exact same mower besides a Briggs engine
Thank you great video! Turned out I had a blown fuse by the solenoid.
Jean Hakim I’m glad you were able to find the issue! That’s the easiest one to fix too!
@@TightWadDIY Yes-- I narrowed it down as to why its tripping it = when I engage the blade it trips the fuse! There must be a faulty switch somewhere... any tips on that?
Jean Hakim That indicates a short. Check the wires on the battery and solenoid first. Then you can check the starter.
Hey my neighbors john deere 286 27hp stopped during cut we found 1 broken coil wire right away. so he got a new coil and 2 new spark plugs i installed them figured we where good i tried starting it , it does turn over i checked gas from tank to carb ( it has a cam operated fuel pump im getting gas into cylinders and blowing it out the exhaust with no sound of spark we figured maybe the ignition module was bad so we replaced that also all saftys checked out because motor turns over just no spark ? Help it just rained and theres over 1 acre to mow im not feeling 22" of cut at a time 🙏 please any thing os helpful its an older tractor and a work horse when running and old jims pride&joy thanks.
Thank you Thank you
Very interesting i learn more about this topic thanks from peewee
1996 Toro Wheel Horse 265-H.Mower started fine. Pulled it off the pavement onto the thick grass. Lifted up the PTO to start the blades and the mower just cut off.I tried to start it again, I pushed the PTO back in, made sure the brake was on, turned the key off, pulled it out, put it back in, while sitting on the seat, and never got off of the seat at any time during this.I tried to start it. I got nothing. Mower will not start at all. No clicks, ticks, nothing as if I am not even turning the key. Lights will not come on when the key is turned and did prior.This happened once before, think it was a fuse or switch but do not know what to check, and cost me a lot to have someone else fix it. I would like to fix this myself. I keep the mower on a battery tender Jr. all the time and the battery was fully charged. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated ? Peace, Mo mogundrum@gmail.com
It sounds like you have a blown fuse or loose battery cable. Check to make sure both battery cables are tight at the terminal then follow them and check that they are secure on the other end. Next, follow the red battery cable from the battery terminal and you should find the fuse. If you don't have a tester just replace it because they are cheap. Let me know if neither of these things fix it.
+TightWadRepairs Thanks so much for the reply. unfortunately the battery cable was the very last thing I checked and you were spot on. IT was loose. However It did cut off again after I retightened it and for some reason the seat safety had an issue. I put a paper clip to tie the safety together just to see if that would fix the problem and it started right up. I will have to replace the seat safety. Thanks so much for putting out such a great video. It is always a great feeling when you don't have to lug your ride to some mechanic just to replace something as simple as what I had. At least in watching your video I had a more confident place to start then just wondering what to do. Thanks again. Peace, Reese/Mo
there is an easyer way to check solenoid when you turn key to startmak sure brake pedal is down should aleast get a click if solenoidis bad to prove this short out 2 big lugs on the solenoid should spin starter if battery is good replace solenoid the short took the place of key switch so that put the tble in the solenoid
I have a Brigg's and Stratton 15.5 H.P. Engine on my rider. I've Replaced the Battery, Starter, Solenoid, Switches, Magneto, I've checked the Ground and All Wiring and Ignition Switch. Damn thing Still WON'T Start. Turn Key and get Click,Click, but that's it. Is it Possesed or what? Any Idea's? Besides trading it for some Goat's or Sheep.
+Mike Link Wow. It sounds like you have checked almost everything. Look up Taryl Fixes All on here and ask him. He has a mower shop and has seen it all I'm sure.
Thanks, I've watched His Video's and have checked all the things he shows. Still No Luck. Guess I'll just have to Start from A and go to Z Again. Usually it's some small thing that's missed. In the meantime I'll be Rustling some Goat's. lol
Mike Link Be sure to change the fuse even if it doesn't look broken.
Hello Mike, make sure the new battery has enough cranking amps at least 275, I prefer 300 and that the battery connections are clean and tight, also make sure your motor is not locked up, turn the engine over by hand if the engine is not able to be turned over by hand you may have a locked motor, hope this info helps.
I have resolved the Problem. I did what donyboy73 showed in his video. I Adjusted the Valves and it Cranked right up and Is Running Fine. Some of these other guys video's helped also as far as Checking for Possible Electrical issues.
I have a new battery on mine a new solenoid a new starter and all it does is Click when I go to start it what could the problem be
Ron Pettigrew If you hear the click, it sounds like an issue with the starter. The click you hear is solenoid so the safety switches, battery, fuse, and solenoid should be good. Test for voltage at the starter.
@@TightWadDIY it is a brand new starter
I can have my job box to it doesn't do anything it just Sparks
I have a Troy-Bilt 17.5 IC OHV BRIGGS & STRATTON ENGINE. Check the fuse it keep blowing the fuse. Can you give me insight on what's going on
Sterl Step You likely have a short somewhere in your wiring causing the fuse to blow as a safety measure. Check your connections.
Thank you for the Tip. Will let you know how it turns out...Thanks again
Thank you for your Response: It was the Solenoid everything else check out...Thank you again for your time.
Sterl Step Thank you for reporting back. Hopefully this helps another user.
You are Welcome: The kept blown because of the PTO was not disengaging. Solenoid had to be replaced alsol
Last weekend I took a hammer and dented in the back of the frame of my cub cadet 42" lawn tractor to I could hook my trailer up to it sat back on it and it would not start. (Wouldn't even turn over). I went through all the safety switches, the clutch, the seat, and the pto and they all checked out ok. I hooked jumper cables up to the starter and it turned. I tested the starter solenoid (I did not realize it was mounted on the back right where I was beating on and it is good.) I'm lost and don't know why I am not getting power to my starter? Anybody got something to check?
Aaron Hubbard The fuse is also located in the back of the mower. Did you check it? You may have crimped a wire when you bent the sheet metal. Did you test the voltage coming into the solenoid when you turn the key? If you aren't getting 12v on that spade, work your way back to the battery from there. Maybe a cable is just loose.
can you Tell me why my Mower will start bit all of a sudden when u put it in gear it will not pull?
Bobby Cox You likely have an issue with your drive belt. Check out my video on how to replace your upper and lower drive belt and it should fix your issue.
I can't tell you how thankful I am for you and your video. I am 55, disabled female, with severe trouble with my hands and on a very low income. I asked 4 different men to help me fix my mower and got no offers. I searched on-line and found your video and watched. Then over a period of 3 days, started checking all the points of contracts on the kill switches. I got to the solenoid, which I cried a lot over, because it has painful to get my hands inside the battery box and fender. But I did it, tested it as you showed and nothing. Ordered a new one and installed the next day. Turned the key and shouted out in joy and my mower started up, because this girl was able to do it with your help. Thank you so much.
Donna Brown Thank you for sharing. Your determination is admirable. I'm glad my video helped you get the mower back up and running.
@Donna Brown...Good for you!! I had a stroke, so I know full well what your going through. I used to do this stuff all the time, now it takes quite a lot longer to get anything done.
you go girl :)
¹Good morning I hope everything everything OK haven't heard from you in a a security security today and I am not not if you are are of of but I I wanted wanted know know you you to to to get get raise To To off the the of the the people in the morning and and I q11 q11 q112q2121121 2122212112111 q1²q1 2122q2qq2q222qqq2q2q2q2qqqq2qq2qqq2qq2q2q2qq2q2q2q2q2qqq2qq2qqqqq2q2qq2q2q 222qq2q2q22qq2qq2q2q2q2qq22 q2q2q2qq2qq2q2q q222q22q2 q21 q121q2qqqq q q2 q2 q1212qq2q 2q q1122q22q2qqqq2q I q11qqqqq q112q2qqqqqqqq q22qqq2qqqqqqq2q2qqqqqqq2qqq2qqqq2q2qq2qq2qq2qqq2q2qqqqqqqqqqqqqq121qqqqqq q11q2q2qq2qqq2qqqqqqq2q2qqqqq2qqqqqqqqqqqqqq2qqqqq q2qqq q2qqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqq2qqqqqqq I q11qqqqq2qqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqq2qqqqqq2qqqqqqqqqqqqqqqq2qqqqqqqq21qq2 q11qqqqqqqqqq q121qqqqqqqqqqq and q11qq q1 q11qqqqq q11qqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqq q11qqqq q11qqqq q11qqq q21qqqqq q11qq2q q11qq2qqqqqqqq2qqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqq2qqqq and q11qqqqqq q21q I q11qqqqqq q11qqq q q11qqq q11qqqqqqqq q11qqqq2q I q11qqqqqqqqqqqq q11qqqqqqqq q q21 I don't q1 q11qqqqqq2qqq2qqqqqq q11qqqqqq2qqq2qqqqqq q11qqqqqq2qqq2qqqqqq think q11q2qq q11qqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqq11qqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqq2qqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqq
You go girl !! Congratulations YOU fixed it. This video is excellent WAY excellent better than most
Thanks for showing us how to test solenoids. I had a solenoid problem too that was nothing more than the positive cable severed off from the solenoid. The cable is moved back and forth all the time when disconnecting and reconnecting the battery to the point that eventually one or two strands hold to the solenoid.
I’m glad you figured it out!
Thank you for showing how to test the switches. Most videos I had watched (10+) was about bypassing the switches, not fixing the problem.
My pleasure!
Good video but it’s much faster if you first check the fuse then the starter then the solenoid. Then work your way through the safety switches. If you have power at the starter or the solenoid then you know the safety switches are good. It can save you the time and trouble of having to test each switch.
Thank you for all the info's It is by far One of the best diagnostic for electric system..
Frank Arjmand Thank you, Frank. I'm glad you found it helpful.
The solenoid locations are ridiculous and hard to deal with. Now I have to go recheck my ground. I have to disconnect and remove my battery just to get to it and have to reinstall everything just to TEST it. In 3 seasons, my solenoid has failed 3 times. Why couldn't it be something easy. Good video and good camera work. Thanks for the help.
It’s definitely in a terrible location.
And anyway your the only one that did a great video thanks for taking your time to explain it like a pro, thanks 👍
I’m glad you enjoyed it.
Everything you did perfect, but I did all that and nothing happens, my problem was the clutch spring break and don't allow me to press the safely switch.
I hope you are able to get it working.
The first thing I would test is if the solenoid it getting 12v when key is in start position, if yes, bad solenoid, if no safety switch
Hey mate on start my solonoid is getting 12v - but the problem is it's getting 12v to both wires. As one should be a negative it's not working - any insight on why this is I've checked all the switches battery and key switch all fine.
@@rockybasnayaka5289 Not sure what's going on there. I would disconnect the black wire from solenoid, then run a separate jumper wire from the now open tab on the solenoid to the negative terminal on battery. Then see if it starts. This is bypassing the saftey switches so do at your own risk. If it does not start try jumping the soleniod terminals with a screwdriver, if that starts it then the soleniod is bad and starter is good. Please let us know if it works. I'm betting it will.
@@Old600Rusty thanks for the reply mate. I've tried jumping the solenoid and it works when the kill wire if off the coil. I'll try what you've suggested with the black wire to buypass the safety switches. This mower is a swiss stiga. The worst mower I've ever had to work on. Can't find anything in English for this, can it be a control unit issue? This had a blown camshaft and I've tried jumping it a lot of times. Now the engine is all sorted but have the issue with starting as above.
Before you test any switch you need to know if it is N.O. normally opened or (N.C.) normally closed. a wiring diagram for your machine will tell you how the switch operates. Sometimes it's very difficult to find the correct wiring diagram because of age or in some cases it has been discontinued.
William Davis It’s helpful to know but not a necessity in this case. As long as one side functions one way and the other side functions the opposite then you are good.
Great video and to the point. I have a kubota zero turn, clicks and solenoid tested good, and will start if you make the solenoid connection with a wrench, but not turning the key?
That is really odd. So you hear the solenoid click when you turn the key but the engine doesn’t turn over at all? Then when you jump the terminals on the solenoid it starts? If it didn’t click when you turned the key I would say it’s the key switch.
@@TightWadDIY I was mistaken in that I did hear a click, but something else clicks when you turn the key , and was NOT the solenoid, tested the switch and that was it. The first 2 switch positions worked but not when you turned to crank. Replaced it, good to go, thanks for your pointers!
@@pcdubya Great! I’m glad you got it working!
Hello TightwaddyDIY: Your video helped me order a new solenoid. I removed old solenoid and now hoping that new solenoid gets my craftsman riding mower again !!
Fingers crossed!
video helped me thanks .i noticed that red wire attached to the cylinoid is not attached yo the cylinoid on my mower so that should be the problem .thanks
Hopefully that gets you fixed up!
@@TightWadDIY it did .the whole piece came out of the cylinoid i put it back " in " started right up
Been thru all this and still haven't figured out my problem. So annoyed test good Ignition switch test good PTO switch test good blade engagement switch test good I have 12 V to the left side of cylon oi'd no power at the starter. Fuse test good starter task good I believe I have a ground issue what do you think?
Hi good videos I have a cub cadet model 17brcaca009, when I start it start but when the blade start working cutting for five minute slow down and turn it off , then I start again it start bit do the same thing, any idea what wrong with it
Why is that I bought 4 switches all of them I made the test on the 4 terminals only button push down it has continuity but not with button up ! Why is that???? It supposedly one side button push down= continuity
Other side button out = continuity too !!!
Thanks for your video series!!! New mowers are so expensive and then they sit out in the rain....Glad to restore an older mower
Mike Matthews You are welcome. Thanks for commenting.
Thank you sir.
Mower wasn't giving any heart beat at all. I thought it was electrical. And your video helped me a lot. It was a loose connection at the break switch..
Once again thank you a lot!
Blessings!!
Great! Glad you were able to find the issue!
TightWad it was my starter solenoid and battery, a Big Thank You! i can now cut my grass, my nephew fixed it for me, i done some bartering on the labor.
That is awesome! Thank you for sharing your success.
How do you bypass all those safety switchs from the key ign. Switch?
Great video and well explained, I’ve got a newer model, same principle, my problem is intermittent sometimes turns over then won’t, I will follow your advice and post what I find, happy mowing all !
Glad it helped.
Simplified & precise explanation for checking safety switches, solenoid for starting problems
Scott Pettit Thank you. I try to make helpful no frills videos.
Nice video and thorough. I had the same problem, not even a clicking sound. Turned out to be a kill switch. You saved me a lot of money with this. Thank you!
I'm glad you found the video helpful. I love saving money but it is even better when I help others save money too!
+TightWadRepairs It is a 20+ year old mower but still kicking. Also learned to do a carburetor rebuild to keep it going a few years ago. I love UA-cam... even learned to replace the igniter in our gas oven.
Can't thank you enough...... After going thru the steps mine was the switch under the brake. After putting new blades and belt on' my girlfriend some how cocked it sideways while helping me. Again....thanks
You are very welcome. I'm happy to hear the video was helpful. Be sure to subscribe so you can find me again if you have other issues.
Awesome video. I've been checking out videos on this topic and this is the clearest, most concise step by step one I've seen yet. By the way... it's a solenoid, not a sillynoid, silly!
Brian Thanks. I am a teacher by trade so I do my best to give clear instructions. It’s a sillynoid in the south!
My tractor is drivin me nuts! Jon deer sabre 38inch ct with 15.5 hp brigs .ahhhh! K .i followed a video on bypassing all the safety switches snip the line which on mine its the purple one. .cut it bout 2 ft down re splice it to the same wire at the ignition. Boom! Simple! It worked flawlessly for bout a hour .now? My tractor start up for a min. Mabe 2 then just dies out .??? I cant figure out whats the matter?something so simple is drivin me bonkers!! Any idea please?
That sounds like something is overheating unless you have a fuel issue. Does it sputter and die or just cut off instantly?
Thank You so very very much for this information and trouble shooting skills of a great mechanic
Merry Christmas
My pleasure!
For my MTD, the problem was with the Brake Switch, the Plastic Plunger was bending to the side of the piece of metal that pushes it down, so it was never getting closed.
Yes, sometimes the parts just wear out and you need to MacGyver them.
I put a new Solonoid in when I turn the key I’m getting a clicking noise but still not starting I keep getting sparks from where it’s grounded would that be a bad ground connection this is on a mtd j116 model
Yes. Check the ground. Maybe add a new connector.
thanks ,my husqvarna 46,had a no start,I've replaced various things,but this was great use if continuity tester,my battery is good,...lights are independent of keyswitch,anyhow I moved it and it started working again,could be parking switch,anyhow feeling confident, I've set the air gap on magnetos,adjusted choke,and it starts easier,dad was so good with a meter ,now it's my turn to learn, I know theres lots of variations ,and a few similarities,I subbed to your channel,
Mark Bidwell It sounds like you had a great person to learn from!
I’m having trouble with a repair man 😐, god I failed
For the seat switch, I just slipped a thing piece of cardboard, like a playing card thickness in between the leaves of the switch to bypass it.
Nice work
Thank you for your great video, fixed my problem brake switch.
dean brossy I’m glad you were able to get it fixed! I have several other videos for this same mower. Be sure to subscribe.
6 years later and your video is still helping people. I am repairing a Zero Turn Toro mower that is a no crank no start. I suspect the starter but will go through and check all of the safety switches using my multimeter first so I don't become a part changer. I hope it is not the starter because it is a pain to get to. I have replaced one before and it was almost impossible. It has the solenoid attached to the starter. I am going to try hitting it gently at first to see if it is stuck.
I’m glad the video is still helping people out! Check the solenoid too.
I changed solenoid but it still just clicks and the engine doesn’t turn over. What else could it possibly be? Starter ?
It could be but not definitely.
Thank you and well done video of walking thru the electrical safety switches and solenoid for troubleshooting.
Luis Ferrans You are welcome, Luis. Thank you for the kind comment. Be sure to subscribe and hit that thumbs up!
Yes
PLEASE CONTINUE POSTING STEP BY STEP VIDEOS. I'm having an issue with my old school rear engine, Snapper SR riding mover. The issue is when turning the motor with my hands, it only goes so far and stop. When I attempt to start it, it stops at the same position that I was turning it with my hands. I'm thinking that the chuck key on it is out of line. If you could share your opinion, I would greatly appreciate it, or email me at northernflavor@aol.com.
Ok, so what do you do when all the switches, battery, fuse, and ignition switch is good, but still doesn't get power to the solenoid?
Sorry man. I’m really not sure.
Well maybe this is where I need to start...pardon the pun.
My mower will start, at first, run for about 10 mins, then start surging & die.
Replaced fuel filter.
Same thing.
Replaced vacuum hose between fuel pump & ...going blank. Anyway, did that.
Same thing.
So once it dies, it won't start again. Not right away. No click, no nothing when I turn the key.
If I wait 10 mins or so, it will start, run a few minutes, then it's lather, rinse, repeat.
I'm a 57 yr old female disabled vet on a fixed income, so I always try to fix things myself, cuz having someone else do it (repair shop) is 'spensive!
And the only thing I'm scared of is electricity. Like I don't want to be anywhere near where someone says it's hot, live, or energized.
But I'm working through it. Switched out ceiling fans, replaced light switched & plug-ins, etc.
So I want to thank you for the step by step, SAFE & easy way to go through the testing process video!!
I'll be nervous, but I'll get through it. The Lord always has His protection around me. So bless you for helping! 🙏🙌
It could be your ignition coil. Here is a video explaining: ua-cam.com/video/TlGmns1x-Kc/v-deo.htmlsi=8no5mRaMjw18fLHA
@@TightWadDIY Oh, thank you! I'll watch that. I appreciate the suggestion & link very much!!
Thank you for showing us the switches and how to test them. I just changed the same solenoid on my neighbor's mower. Her Daddy's friend took it off 2 weeks ago and didn't come back. I learned how to put it back properly.
Burt Burt That’s great! I’m glad you were able to get it fixed.
If the light is on, wouldn't the fuse be good? Not sure myself if the lights are wired through the fuse.
Not necessarily.
👍
Thanks and God bless.
My pleasure!
you dont have to remove solenoid to test it as you turn switch key to start with brake pedal down it sends 12 v to small post on solenoid this operates a magnet in side solenoid causing two big post to short inside solenoid this sends 12v and high amperage to starter to make it spin--------- you can bypass key and brake pedal by shorting 2 big posts on solenoid the few sparks dont hurt any thing on the post if stater spins it tells you battery and starter is good
Thanks for the video.I have a John Deere Sabre that will not start. I have replaced the starter switch and solenoid. Checked all for continuity and every part seems to be fine. I replaced the fuse. Still nothing when I turn the key. I have jump started it but when I take my foot off the brake it stalls. What have I missed or done wrong?
Just cut all the safety switches out. Once u do that u will have your magneto wire which mines yellow coming from key switch and u have to hook that to the black kill wire coming off the coil which usually runs down to a connector and turns into the same color wire on other side of the connector
Thank you for having a video explaining all these steps. It was hard finding a video to troubleshoot the sensors
George beauchamp You are welcome. I’m glad you found it helpful.
Great video, my kill switch on foot brake had come loose.
Thanks
Graham Stewart You are welcome! I’m glad you were able to find and fix the issue.
So helpful thank you
Glad it was helpful!
My clutch runs when I start my mower and when I engage the pro switch the motor dies
What do you mean your clutch runs?
can you provide a link on where to order a solenoid ?
This was very helpful but could you please do a video more in depth of the wiring going to the solenoid. I have a loose green wire that I believe going with the ground but I'm not too sure where it goes.thanks
How many posts does your solenoid have?
@@TightWadDIY it's a 4 post. Looks like the same make and model of mower as your.
Thanks so much for getting back with me.. Ok this is what I did... I ran a wire from the hot side of the solenoid to little wire on the solenoid and it turned over..so now I know it's not the solenoid.. next I did the same thing but I turned the key to the run position and pulled down on the break engaging the killswitch and it started.. so now I know it's not the solenoid or the killswitch to the break..I'm thinking either a broke wire or the ignition switch is out...
Good video. Thank U.
My pleasure.
Don't get me wrong it was a very informative video on how to troubleshoot so thank you very much but I just wanted to point out the safety issue also!!!
ha what would happen if u removed the yellow wire from the switch would that kll all the safty switched so the mover would start thanks
This tractor has diagnostic center on dash +electric switch to raise +lower mower
No. It doesn’t have a switch to raise and lower.
I rarely commnent on videos, but you have saved my sanity. Turns out the solenoid kan be installed the wrong way. Thank you!
Thorbjørn I really appreciate you taking time to comment and I’m always happy to help. I several mower repair videos so you should subscribe.
I don't understand how the solenoid can be installed the wrong way! You can put the large red wires on either of the large bolts//studs and the smaller wires on either of the other two contacts.
Okay I just did the solenoid thing change too and it still doesn't work what should I check next?
What are your symptoms?
@@TightWadDIY it won't start. I put in a new battery and just did the solinoid thing and nothing happens when I turn the key
Thanks!
Thank you so much!
Thanks!
My pleasure. Thank you!
Excellent Trouble shooting.5/21 2021
Thanks! Hopefully you are able to get your issue solved.
What size fuse is that. Mine has a green
my Craftsman mower 917 when you let me clutch out it dies could it be the clutch safety switch
Excellent video.Thank you for sharing.
Human angel You are welcome. Let us know what ends up being your problem.
john deere lt 155 riding mower deck is not turning on when I flip the lever up i already replaced the switch under the dash please help thank you
michael depaepe Did you recently work on your belts? The PTO lever engages a tension pulley which makes the blades engage. Check the tension pulley to make sure the spring is still attached.
my wife was using it one day and it just stopped working I have not touched the deck
michael depaepe The spring may have broken. Locate the tension pulley (it moves side to side) and make sure there is a spring attached.
hey thanks for all your info thanks again
This was great, I have this issue with my mower and your Video was quick and to the point. I think it is the PTO switch for the blade you showed first. Funny a lawnmower repair place to me that has nothing to do with it, it just stops the motor. Thanks
Hope you can get yours fixed!
Good description. I have a no-start problem, too. My voltmeter reads 12V across the battery, but the lights do not turn on. I'm going to take the battery to Interstate today to double check it. The tractor is a 25 year old Cub Cadet with a rwo-year old battery, the switches are hard to get to. The body is one piece, and I have to remove the fuel tank to get to the ignition and PTO switches. Any recommendations to find the problem without disassembling it?
Mark Hanson Does it click when you turn the key? If not, can you get to the solenoid? If so, try jumping it with an insulated handle screw driver. Also check the fuse.
Very good video. I have a Yard Machines friend lawnmower tractor. It has this very same problem. I cannot find a fuse anywhere. I changed the solenoid and ignition switch and check on the switches you were talking about in this video and get no progress. Please help. God bless you and thank you so much for sharing this video.
The fuse should be between the battery and the solenoid. It’s hard to find the issue without looking at it myself. It could be the key switch but that’s less common.
I have a 1018 club cadet want crank turn switch on lights comes on but want,start up u have to jump it off by the starter to crank .it have 3 safty switches ,seat sw not the problem ,I don't think park switch Is the problem could it be the clutch safety sWitch
It could be the safety switches or the solenoid. Both would cause the lights to work but not the mower.
I've watched SOOOO many videos on Craftsman riding mowers I thought my head was going to pop. You were very good! I changed my solenoid (had same problem as you) but still won't start. I can jump it. And it will start. But I was wanting to know if you would do an ignition removal video because I think that's my problem. Thank you forsuch clear, concise, & detailed video.
-Lynn
RRePETE Unfortunately, I don't have this mower anymore so I am unable to make new videos. I think you are on the right track though. The ignition switch has to send a charge to the solenoid to make it work. It could still be a kill switch though.