Always nice when you go looking into something that seems like it might be a massive project and find a neat 10 minute video on the whole process. If I do need to go this route, I already feel pretty confident in tackling it, so thanks!
Best delivery I've seen tonight for how to do this - clear, thorough and accurate! Many many thanks, you've given me the information and facts that make me confident i can fix my door myself. Thanks again.
Thanks for a clear explanation. The point about the importance of distinguishing the difference between machine screw and self tapping screw head is a good one, but could have been clearer with a close up photo illustrating the difference. Releasing the wrong screws could have dire consequences making the dismantling the locking mechanism unnecessarily onerous if the wrong are mistakenly released. Thanks
One of the most common issues we find is that as doors & windows become older the hardware (moving parts) wear out and the openers in particular begin to move out of position. This occurs over a long time & due to this the home owner does not notice these subtle changes and slowly but surely becomes used to having to use a little more force or pushing the handle a bit more than before etc which I am sure we all can relate to with many products and items. What in reality is happening is the hinges and bolts and fixings are all wearing down through natural use and lack of lubrication / maintenance. Usually the first parts to therefore break down are the lock gearboxes simply because these are the hardest working parts as they are open and closed every day and every time we operate them. Obviously the remedy is to replace these parts when they break and no doubt when we do so this seems to make the operation much better than before. However the problem that caused the existing one to fail still exists and the new replacement is starting from the “no more tolerance” available position which means the new lock is now working much harder than the original for the reasons previously stated & needs to be factored in to any DIY repair that has been carried out. So how long should a replacement lock last ? is the next obvious question. This however is an impossible question to answer as it will always be dependent upon so many factors I:E how much the door has moved vs how much it is used notwithstanding how much force is therefore exerted to operate the lock means that the new part may fail in a fraction of the time of the existing one. The following is a useful checklist and information to aid you in this regard & not an attempt to fob you off. First of all, has the opening sash moved & dropped which means in layman’s terms the door sash has moved downwards and is now catching and was the reason the original failed? and if so will likely happen again. When the door or windows were first fitted, the installer SHOULD HAVE? ensured that they were packed around the glass to lift the door up and prevent this occurring. Over time these packers can move as the opening sash is opened and closed and slammed shut. If they do move, then the glazing area will no longer support the openers weight causing it to move. The easy thing to do is try to correct this by adjusting the hinges (If they allow for this) to move the sash however you will quite often find they only move the sash left to right by a few mm’s and this can cause secondary issues I:E as you move the sash away from the frame it closes onto you are also moving it away from the locking striker keeps making it less secure. The correct way to address this issue is to Toe and Heel the opening sash and this means re-pack the glass around the glazing in the sash to lift it up. It is not difficult for a competent, DIY person but needs to be done in a correct manner and is too difficult to explain in writing, & therefore we have done a how to do video here: ua-cam.com/video/c8kip-gPuXw/v-deo.html Also, removing glass here: ua-cam.com/video/OPAQAFwlwDo/v-deo.html You will need to use the correct tools and a list of them is here: Glazing shovel, Beading Blade Removal Tool & Also the Glazing Packers. If you scroll down the page of the following link you will see the parts all listed near the bottom of the page should you require them: upvcspares4repairs.co.uk/gardinia-upvc-glazing-shovel-aid-toe-heeling-double-glazed-units.html TIP: at the very beginning close the opening sash and with a pencil mark the 4 corners round the door sash so it marks a right-hand corner on the outer frame that you can see when the door is opened If you look at the hinge side first the line (I:E showing how much the sash covers the outer frame known as the “sash cover” dimension & should be something like 8mm within a maximum 2mm tolerance) The hinge side in theory should always be correct as this was set up in the factory and was drilled and screwed in place using the hinge Jig. Now look at the opposite side in particular the top corner if this is below the 8mm quoted I:E 5mm then this means the door has dropped and this is an issue as the lock points are now out of position and is why the lock will continue to fail as to operate it you must use excessive force to make it operate and will cause the parts inside the lock to fail and is not covered under the warranty as the door is no longer set up correctly and will now grind and catch on the frame keep lock parts. This is offered as advice of possible issues without physical inspection but should you follow the tips given it will hopefully give a trouble free project. Regards upvcspares4repairs
My door is pushing open like the latch doesn't stay strong it pushes in . My hook latch doesn't cone out on lifting the handle. The locking system I have is the 1 pictured. Would these faults be repairable ty
Bag stolen with keys and also paperwork showing address so need to change the lock. Do I have to change only the cylinder or the cylinder and long strip? Thanks
Hi my door is around three years old and has just started to give problems, the main one is the main door handle needs adjusting as it travel to far out and will not allow the door to close without depressing the handle thanks in advance
With the now unfortunate growing incidence of criminal forced entry by snapping euro locks, I am seriously considering fitting higher grade BS Kite marked locks. Whether entry is thwarted for otherwise the process of forced latch plates may still likely render the doors requiring replacement. Do you have any recommendations as there appears to be several claiming added security solutions. Thanks
Hi....I have a uvpc multi lock white street door. When trying to open the door to enter the house and the key is turned clockwise to its fullest it is very hard to turn the key any further and it will only unlock when the handle is lowered at the same time. Can you tell me what is causing this? Should I replace the cylinder lock or does the whole mechanism need replacing. Any replies of help greatly appreciated.
Hi Kerry that sounds like the door lock is faulty and needs replacing if you can send photos to info@upvcspares4repairs.co.uk we will take a look and advise an option Tips: Push the opening sash ajar so you can see the lock mechanism / locking points As well as a close up If you can also show full length image/s as well it also helps to get a perspective of the full lock part etc Don't be too worried about sending 3 or 4 pictures from different angles as I may need to see inside and out and the door / window opening ajar showing the lock/s and frame keeps is always a big help as best I can & I hope this helps
I find that the handle on my door has a lot of free movement downwards and it’s only the last cm or so of ‘throw’ that actually moves the door catch. Can this be replaced itself or does the locking mechanism come as a whole unit as per your video?
roddyk05 Hi - I have the same problem. I am guessing you follow this video to take the whole mechanism off and then remove the centre case section (where the latch is) from the full length section and replace with a new centre case and then re-install the full length section. Mines an ERA one and it looks like centre cases are around £20-£25. There are videos on UA-cam how to do the centre case change. Not ordered the part yet and was hoping someone from UPVC Spares4repairs could confirm I am on the right track before ordering from them!!
Lost keys to my patio door it’s still locked I broke the cylinder like your demo but I still can’t get it open to replace the lock I cannot get to the centre screw either can you help please
Hi its a millenco door lock if you search for it on our site upvcspares4repairs.co.uk/upvc-door-spares-replacement-parts/upvc-multipoint-door-lock-mechanisms.html?brand=1061
Hi Let me try to explain: if you look at the gearbox you will see that your lock has 2 spindles. In most cases people use handles that go through the top spindle only both inside and outside this means that they operate the same both sides in that assuming the key cylinder is unlocked you pull the handle down and the latch retracts and you open the door However, if you wish to make the external a key holder only access you achieve this by putting offset lever handles on the inside part & this still uses the top spindle but the external one uses the lower spindle. This lower spindle never retracts the latch instead you have to also turn the key in the cylinder to retract the latch meaning only key holders can enter So if you come home and open the door once closed no one can enter behind you If you do not wish to use this option then simply use the top spindle hole on both sides of the door and it will operate the same both sides
Snap Euro Out once out of the door you will need to put something through the now open hole and flick the levers over (think of the black lug that was attached to the cylinder all this does is turn round and round as the key is operated to lock and un lock the gearbox you now need to unlock it if it was locked when you snapped the lock) Something like a Allen key seems to work well using the short end that is bent at 90 degrees so it goes inside the lock as the lug did. Hope this helps
Does the door lock operate fully when the door is open ? I:E not closed into the outer frame I:E open the door lift the lever fully up and turn the key does it fully lock then if so it is something catching when the door is closed. I:E one or more of the keeps may need moving to allow the lock to travel it’s full length Quite often doors as they get older can “drop” in essence as the hinges and packers wear the door opening sash moves downwards to the floor by a few mm and starts to catch even though you can’t instantly see it Make sure the lever is fully up to the top. If the linkage points do not fully engage their full length this will stop the cylinder lug (the black bit that spins round) travelling the full 360 degrees if so it is something catching when the door is closed the other option to try is to loosen the screw on the euro cylinder key lock and then try to lock it etc if it locks ok then lift the handles and lock into locked position before you try to tighten the screw so making the cylinder central etc If you need to lubricate anything we find Vaseline on all the moving metal parts works well, Lastly if after trying all the above you are still suffering the same issues it is highly likely that the door lock gearbox is failing and means it will require replacement (if this is the case it is also worth asking the question why has the lock failed so relatively quickly?) hope this helps Allan spares for repairs.
HI CAN ANYONE TELL ME HOW MUCH TO FIT MY FULL LENGTH LOCK ON MY PVC DOOR I AM JUST WONDER HOW MUCH IT WOULD COST WHERE I COME FROM IN NORFOLK THEY TRY AND TAKE PEOPLE ON
Always nice when you go looking into something that seems like it might be a massive project and find a neat 10 minute video on the whole process. If I do need to go this route, I already feel pretty confident in tackling it, so thanks!
You've just saved me an expensive visit from a locksmith. A really well delivered tutorial, thanks!
Best delivery I've seen tonight for how to do this - clear, thorough and accurate! Many many thanks, you've given me the information and facts that make me confident i can fix my door myself. Thanks again.
Superb tutorial - you could not have explained it more clearly. Thank you.
Excellent demonstration with clear warnings and tips. Thank you for sharing. Learned a lot from you.
Excellent visual tutorial.
Excellent demonstration, clear and precise. Thank you.
The machine screws holding the (three) mechanisms are mostly Pozidrive not Phillips heads like the screws that hold the strip.
Great and clear instructions. Good man, thank you. I will attempt myself now. Dave
THANKS,EXcellent video, could you put up a picture of the machine screws, not to take out and the ones you should take out,please?
Thanks for a clear explanation. The point about the importance of distinguishing the difference between machine screw and self tapping screw head is a good one, but could have been clearer with a close up photo illustrating the difference. Releasing the wrong screws could have dire consequences making the dismantling the locking mechanism unnecessarily onerous if the wrong are mistakenly released. Thanks
Thanks for the video. Helped to sort my DIY nightmare.
Brilliant video ! I'm very grateful for it. Many thanks.
Very clear, thank you. How do you replace the cylinder when the key has snapped inside it? It wont rotate to the release position.
One of the most common issues we find is that as doors & windows become older the hardware (moving parts) wear out and the openers in particular begin to move out of position. This occurs over a long time & due to this the home owner does not notice these subtle changes and slowly
but surely becomes used to having to use a little more force or pushing the handle a bit more than before etc which I am sure we all can relate to with many products and items.
What in reality is happening is the hinges and bolts and fixings are all wearing down through natural use and lack of lubrication / maintenance.
Usually the first parts to therefore break down are the lock gearboxes simply because these are the hardest working parts as they are open and closed every day and every time we operate them. Obviously the remedy is to replace these parts when they break and no doubt when we do so this seems to make
the operation much better than before. However the problem that caused the existing one to fail still exists and the new replacement is starting from the “no more tolerance” available position which means the new lock is now working much harder than the original for the reasons previously stated & needs to be
factored in to any DIY repair that has been carried out. So how long should a replacement lock last ? is the next obvious question. This however is an impossible question to answer as it will always be dependent upon so many factors I:E how much the door has moved vs how much it is used notwithstanding how much force is therefore exerted
to operate the lock means that the new part may fail in a fraction of the time of the existing one.
The following is a useful checklist and information to aid you in this regard & not an attempt to fob you off.
First of all, has the opening sash moved & dropped which means in layman’s terms the door sash has moved downwards and is now catching and was the reason the original failed? and if so will likely happen again.
When the door or windows were first fitted, the installer SHOULD HAVE? ensured that they were packed around the glass to lift the door up and prevent this occurring.
Over time these packers can move as the opening sash is opened and closed and slammed shut. If they do move, then the glazing area will no longer support the openers weight causing it to move. The easy thing to do is try to correct this by adjusting the hinges (If they allow for this) to move the sash however you will quite often find they only move the sash left to right by a few mm’s and this can cause secondary issues I:E as you move the sash away from the frame it closes onto you are
also moving it away from the locking striker keeps making it less secure.
The correct way to address this issue is to Toe and Heel the opening sash and this means re-pack the glass around the glazing in the sash to lift it up. It is not difficult for a competent, DIY person but needs to be done in a correct manner and is too difficult to explain in writing, & therefore we have done a how to do video here: ua-cam.com/video/c8kip-gPuXw/v-deo.html
Also, removing glass here: ua-cam.com/video/OPAQAFwlwDo/v-deo.html
You will need to use the correct tools and a list of them is here:
Glazing shovel, Beading Blade Removal Tool & Also the Glazing Packers. If you scroll down the page of the following link you will see the parts all listed near the bottom of the page should you require them:
upvcspares4repairs.co.uk/gardinia-upvc-glazing-shovel-aid-toe-heeling-double-glazed-units.html
TIP: at the very beginning close the opening sash and with a pencil mark the 4 corners round the door sash so it marks a right-hand corner on the outer frame that you can see when the door is opened
If you look at the hinge side first the line (I:E showing how much the sash covers the outer frame known as the “sash cover” dimension & should be something like 8mm within a maximum 2mm tolerance) The hinge side in theory should always
be correct as this was set up in the factory and was drilled and screwed in place using the hinge Jig. Now look at the opposite side in particular the top corner if this is below the 8mm quoted I:E 5mm then this means the door has dropped
and this is an issue as the lock points are now out of position and is why the lock will continue to fail as to operate it you must use excessive force to make it operate and will cause the parts inside the lock to fail and is not covered under
the warranty as the door is no longer set up correctly and will now grind and catch on the frame keep lock parts.
This is offered as advice of possible issues without physical inspection but should you follow the tips given it will hopefully give a trouble free project.
Regards upvcspares4repairs
Any idea how I can open a door with a failed multipoint lock. Gear box has failed & hooks & rollers are not disengaging from the keeps.
My door is pushing open like the latch doesn't stay strong it pushes in . My hook latch doesn't cone out on lifting the handle. The locking system I have is the 1 pictured.
Would these faults be repairable ty
Thank. Great video. Going nuts wondering how to get the cylinder out.
Very well explained thanks for uploading this great video helped me, greatly appreciated 👍
Excellent video thanks for this. It told me everything I needed to know
Basically 2 to choose from currently either the ABS or the Ultion both have the highest 3 star Diamond security rating
Bag stolen with keys and also paperwork showing address so need to change the lock. Do I have to change only the cylinder or the cylinder and long strip? Thanks
Great how to video perfectly explained
What an easy job when you know how
What brand is that locking system? Its the type in my door but find it hard to get it
Hi my door is around three years old and has just started to give problems, the main one is the main door handle needs adjusting as it travel to far out and will not allow the door to close without depressing the handle thanks in advance
With the now unfortunate growing incidence of criminal forced entry by snapping euro locks, I am seriously considering fitting higher grade BS Kite marked locks. Whether entry is thwarted for otherwise the process of forced latch plates may still likely render the doors requiring replacement. Do you have any recommendations as there appears to be several claiming added security solutions. Thanks
Very good video and very clear.
Great,simple instructions,just the job.
Thanks for the instruction video, very clear, now even I'll be able to change my lock.
Whats the purpose of the lock having two spindle holds? Thanks
Thanks for the really useful content.
Hi....I have a uvpc multi lock white street door. When trying to open the door to enter the house and the key is turned clockwise to its fullest it is very hard to turn the key any further and it will only unlock when the handle is lowered at the same time. Can you tell me what is causing this? Should I replace the cylinder lock or does the whole mechanism need replacing. Any replies of help greatly appreciated.
Thanks for posting this video,just what I was looking for.
Brilliant. Well explained......now it's my turn to have a go.
Hi Kerry that sounds like the door lock is faulty and needs replacing if you can send photos to info@upvcspares4repairs.co.uk
we will take a look and advise an option
Tips: Push the opening sash ajar so you can see the lock mechanism / locking points
As well as a close up If you can also show full length image/s as well it also helps to get a perspective of the full lock part etc
Don't be too worried about sending 3 or 4 pictures from different angles as I may need to see inside and out and the door / window opening ajar showing the lock/s and frame keeps is always a big help
as best I can & I hope this helps
Great video, sorted my door out. Thank you.
"Brill" thanks for feedback much appreciated
Well explained , Thanks for sharing the Knowledge
I find that the handle on my door has a lot of free movement downwards and it’s only the last cm or so of ‘throw’ that actually moves the door catch. Can this be replaced itself or does the locking mechanism come as a whole unit as per your video?
roddyk05 Hi - I have the same problem. I am guessing you follow this video to take the whole mechanism off and then remove the centre case section (where the latch is) from the full length section and replace with a new centre case and then re-install the full length section. Mines an ERA one and it looks like centre cases are around £20-£25. There are videos on UA-cam how to do the centre case change. Not ordered the part yet and was hoping someone from UPVC Spares4repairs could confirm I am on the right track before ordering from them!!
Very helpful thanks. It would help if we knew which to order or if there is only one if you said so. Great tho, thanks.
Very good with some experienced comments
Very nice! I like it!
great video. Thanks for posting.
Very helpful - thanks
Lost keys to my patio door it’s still locked I broke the cylinder like your demo but I still can’t get it open to replace the lock I cannot get to the centre screw either can you help please
Brill thanks for feedback
Brilliant subscribed
Hi its a millenco door lock if you search for it on our site upvcspares4repairs.co.uk/upvc-door-spares-replacement-parts/upvc-multipoint-door-lock-mechanisms.html?brand=1061
many thanks.
Hi Let me try to explain: if you look at the gearbox you will see that your lock has 2 spindles. In most cases people use handles that go through the top spindle only both inside and outside
this means that they operate the same both sides in that assuming the key cylinder is unlocked you pull the handle down and the latch retracts and you open the door
However, if you wish to make the external a key holder only access you achieve this by putting offset lever handles on the inside part & this still uses the top spindle but the
external one uses the lower spindle. This lower spindle never retracts the latch instead you have to also turn the key in the cylinder to retract the latch meaning only key holders can enter
So if you come home and open the door once closed no one can enter behind you
If you do not wish to use this option then simply use the top spindle hole on both sides of the door and it will operate the same both sides
Snap Euro Out
once out of the door you will need to put something through the now open hole and flick the levers over (think of the black lug that was attached to the cylinder all this does is turn round and round as the key is operated to lock and un lock the gearbox you now need to unlock it if it was locked when you snapped the lock) Something like a Allen key seems to work well using the short end that is bent at 90 degrees so it goes inside the lock as the lug did.
Hope this helps
Does the door lock operate fully when the door is open ? I:E not closed into the outer frame
I:E open the door lift the lever fully up and turn the key does it fully lock then
if so it is something catching when the door is closed. I:E one or more of the keeps may need moving to allow the
lock to travel it’s full length
Quite often doors as they get older can “drop” in essence as the hinges and packers wear the door opening sash moves
downwards to the floor by a few mm and starts to catch even though you can’t instantly see it
Make sure the lever is fully up to the top. If the linkage points do not fully engage their full length
this will stop the cylinder lug (the black bit that spins round) travelling the full 360 degrees
if so it is something catching when the door is closed the other option to try is to loosen the screw on the euro cylinder key lock
and then try to lock it etc if it locks ok then lift the handles and lock into locked position before you try to tighten the screw so making the cylinder central etc
If you need to lubricate anything we find Vaseline on all the moving metal parts works well,
Lastly if after trying all the above you are still suffering the same issues it is highly likely that the door lock gearbox is failing and means it will require replacement (if this is the case it is also worth asking the question why has the lock failed so relatively quickly?)
hope this helps
Allan spares for repairs.
HI CAN ANYONE TELL ME HOW MUCH TO FIT MY FULL LENGTH LOCK ON MY PVC DOOR I AM JUST WONDER HOW MUCH IT WOULD COST WHERE I COME FROM IN NORFOLK THEY TRY AND TAKE PEOPLE ON
Brill & thanks for feedback much appreciated
Thank you
"Brill" thanks for feedback much appreciated