How to Keep Your Leatherman Sharp (Work Sharp Guided Field Sharpener)
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- Опубліковано 27 вер 2024
- It's important to maintain all tools and the blade on a Leatherman is no exception. The blade is a hard use implement that can open bags of mortar and cutting materials against concrete. The work sharp guided field sharpener is a lightweight, effective and affordable option to keep the blade in tip top shape.
Nonaffiliated link (can be found for less): www.worksharpt...
Best way to keep Leatherman sharp is to not hit and scrape the blade on a rock.
I’m confused. You’ll have to show me your technique!
Lol, but no it’s cutting tool I carry that I’m willing to abuse. I lent it out to a coworker who cut open 50 large bags of coal with it. It was ROUGH after but that 420HC came back quick. That’s why I actually really enjoy the lower grade steel on letterman’s because it’s nice to have that as an option
Eh, it's a tool, there to serve a purpose. Sometimes that purpose consumes the tool ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Wood and paper is abrasive if you use a knife for sharpening pencils or opening boxes for example they will dull
i just bought it a week ago, this little tool really can do big jobs done.. i sharpen everything from SAK, kitchen knife, axe, machete..it also can sharpen S30V steel on my Leatherman charge back to razor sharp no problem at all
It’s a great tool. It’ll sharpen anything with the diamond plates and it’s so compact!
Exactly that I sharpened my friends scissors, fish hooks, my dads Victorinox Spartan and my axe all in one sitting impressive tool !
Thanks! Great, comprehensive and solution-oriented video. Just bought a Free P4 and am loath to take it to my 30 year old pitted and bowed sharpening stone so I've just ordered the WorkSharp.
It’s an incredible value and capable little setup. The P4 will be ready to rip in no time!
what a coincidence i was sharpening my Leatherman with one of these before work today
Great minds think alike!
Just cleaned up my sidekick with the field sharpener...now it's razor sharp
Works like a charm!
He bangs his knife blade on a rock? I'm overwhelmed by such intelligence LOL great job
Pucker factor to the max! Thanks for watching man!
I have both of these on my bedroom desk love them both so much definitely things that will serve me for years I like to save my full size leatherman plain blades as back ups because they are razor sharp so when my main knives or kitchen knives get dull then I use this
Always interesting to see how others work their system of users and back ups!
I really like how small and fast it is so I can bring it with me to work. It makes me willing to dull the piss out of my Leathermans and they are back to hair shaving by the end of the workday usually.
@@EngineersPerspective701 It’s just so much easier having a sharp knife than a dull knife
The WSGFS is one of the best $30 purchases I've ever made.. It's not intended for blades longer than about 6", but I've done it when I had nothing else available. It just took a while.
I think it’s the best $30 a lot of people can spend! Such incredible value and so useful!
You can lay it down diagonally for broader blades, if you can live without the angle guide
Nice to come across another inginerd in the wild 😁
Lol, right back at ya! It’s a hard life getting super into the details about every hobby but love it!
Great tool to have on the go. If you are sharpening a lot it’s good to invest in a diamond sharpening stone set that will last you 20 years and make quick work of a knife edge
Really ideal for hunting or keeping on site if you’re using your Leatherman a lot or want to impress your friends sharpening their blades.
For my other pocket knives and kitchen knives I use varying water stones: Japanese, diamond, etc.
is this going to r e-profile the blade. Leatherman website says the sharpening angle is 17 degrees, but worksharp angle is 20 ?
In a sense yes. At first just the very apex will be at the 20 degree angle making a microbevel. The benefit of this is the edge is stronger, less steel to remove when sharpening so it’s faster all while cutting like the 17 degree factory edge. However, over time the microbevel will walk back towards the spine as steel is removed and completely reprofile to 20 degrees. There is absolutely so problem with that but I personally like to lay the angle back to 15-17degrees every so often to keep it a microbevel
I use my wave plus to sharpen my charge and vice versa
Iron sharpens iron! Or diamonds in this case
Please teach us how to sharpen a serrated blade on the leatherman. Thanks!
Unfortunately I don’t use it enough to have really needed to!
That said, there are several ways I’ve sharpened serrations over the years. None of them have the qualities that I would deem worthy of sharing though
Dude, I am pretty sure the 1.54 cm and s30v can also stand up to the tasks you mentioned around @1:00 to around @1:25 (and can probably stand up to them better than the 420 HC) . Yeah, they are probably harder to sharpen, because they are designed to keep their edge longer. sheesh.
Nothing to do with toughness, it's only due to time. All steel will blunt on rocks, sand, etc. Taking less time to repair the edge makes it easier to do those tasks I won't do with my folder.
I'd personally argue that both S30V and 154CM sharpen better than 420HC and are not "harder" to sharpen at all. They just take more time mostly due to higher rockwell hardness and some due to much higher carbide content. Diamonds reduce the increase in time as much as possible though.
If portability wasn’t an important factor, would you just get a dual sided 1000/6000 grit combo whetstone that seems popular on Amazon?
If cost matters then I may still encourage going this route because you get more and it’s high quality.
If you are willing to spend up to $80 then get DMT diamond plates or if you want a hand learning then get one of Worksharps bench top units.
thanks..
De nada
raise up your wrist while your sharpening on the plates or your going to round over the tip of your blade
If you watch I do raise it. But I do it by raising my elbow. Always recommend locking the wrist for consistency!
I can bang it on a rock and, oh..
are you even using a knife if you don’t bang it on a rock?
wow you are a genius . tsss
Unlikely but I appreciate the comment!
tried this, fully ruined my leatherman since i had no idea what i was doing
If you “ruined” your Leatherman trying this, that is on you dog
@@EngineersPerspective701yup it is
I really like mine. Sometimes i feel like the ceramic gives me less of an edge compared to what i had with the 600. Maybe it's that 25 degree guide they put on it.
I feel ya. The ceramic takes out a lot of the bite from the 600. Depending on what I’m doing I’ll go straight from the 600 to the strop to preserve some that.
If you are looking to just have something at home and not in the field which desk unit would you recommend? I have tried a few hand sharper like you show and struggle with my spyderco's to get them sharpe. I think I need something that guides the angle better like a desk unit.
I would like to do kitchen knifes too.
What budget do you have in mind? Have you tried full size freehand stones?
If you’re willing to pay the price, either the Hapstone, Edge Pro, or TS Prof would probably be best considering the kitchen knives
@@EngineersPerspective701 100-200 dollars max.
3-in-1 or honing oil works well to clean up ceramic as well. Just put a little bit on there and rub it around to remove the debris then wipe it off with a microfiber towel.
Great video, thanks!!
Glad you enjoyed!
I just bought one it is good for beginners.
So good for beginners! Has everything you need in a small package and for a great price!
@@EngineersPerspective701 hopefully I saw it had good reviews on Amazon and at good price.
What does the leather part, and the ceramic rod actually do?
@@Vickz818 Each abrasive on there has progressively finer grit rating to give a cleaner feeling edge. For beginners the ceramic and strop are extra important for completely deburring the edge. They work that way because they are both finer and "gentler" than the diamond plates so they don't generate new burr as readily.
For best results: After using the diamond plates, do passes on the ceramic by alternating sides each time. This will really clean up the edge. Using the weight of the knife only, rest the edge on your finger nail and see if it digs in or slides off. If it digs in then go to the strop.
Once again alternating sides with edge trailing strokes and do this until it shaves hair easily and cuts paper cleanly.
Does that answer your question?
@@EngineersPerspective701 yes it does good sir. You definitely deserve more followers. So assuming I do everything theirs no reason why I shouldn't get a vixtorinox to cut hair or paper correct.
Gonna pick up one of these tools! I used my Skeletool CX knife to cut some sod, maybe made 3 short cuts, and it was dull right away. Dirt/sand = bad for knives.
Nothing stands up well to that job! These things are super slick though and work pretty quick and easy
I carried a Wave daily for more than 30 years. Until I bought the Surge with its removable file/diamond hone, I was frustrated that I couldn't touch up the edge of my Wave with its excellent hone.
I like my straight blade shaving-sharp, and seldom need a field dressing - my serrated blade is for rough work. Any recommendation for touching up the serrated blade in the field?
I also have an engineering background (retired) and I will often touch up a carbide lathe cutting tool with the Leatherman hone on whichever (Wave or Surge) I'm carrying at the time.
Unfortunately I don’t have any great options for serrations in the field. An okay option that does work are the ceramic rods on the shown sharpener and then stropping after. But the best recommendation would be to leave the house with perfect serrated edge to start!
I have used the spyderco sharpmaker on bread knives and had good results but I’m not ready to fully endorse that yet as it rounds the tips of the serrations a bit. Watch their product video to see it if you like.
@@EngineersPerspective701 Unfortunately that is much as I expected (not your fault 😉). The serrations are as varied as the knifemakers - each grinds to his own pattern, and no field tool will give a decent approximation.
I get "acceptable" (= low bar) results using a guided tapered diamond hone, but no way is my knock-up rig field-portable.
The field Sharpener has a small ceramic rod that works well for honing serrated blades if they're not too beat up. I've also used the 600 grit plate on the back (flat) side of serrated blades. Yeah, it scratches the steel. So what?