Thx for the advice. One more question. I am trying to get the house off that goes to the radiator. The clip is out but it’s not coming off the thermostat. Any suggestions?
Thanks for such a simple and easy video to follow. So once I have replaced the coolant tank, I need to fill up the coolant tank with coolant right to the top (to where the max is in the coolant reservoir) and then run the bleeding procedure to remove all the air pockets in the pipes, is that correct? When do you put the battery charger on? (do you put it on your positive and negative battery points right at the start as your doing the procedure? and is it pretty obvious when it's finished? (i.e. does the water pump stop going)
Thanks for the comment. Yes that is correct about the coolant level. Yes put the battery charger on before you start because the procedure can last for over 10 minutes. Now I had some models that did shut off by themselves and some that didn’t. If you start the procedure it should last for 10 to 15 minutes and shut off automatically if not 15 minutes max should be sufficient and you can stop the procedure manually.
I thought the reservoir cap needed to be on tight to do this. Is yours loose to relieve pressure in the process (taking finger off the too of your straw as a kid)
hello I have a question I have a 2013 BMW X3 F25 the Ford warning light is still rounding up and still on the board despite everything the bottle is full of water
I've done this process a few times now. The engine seems to be just fine now, holding temp where it needs to be, but my heater blows cold. How do I get the air out of the heater core?
When you accelerate does the heat get hot? If so it’s probably air trapped. Try breaking the seal on the hose near the heater corr to let some coolant come out.
Can you please help... My car BMW 2014 X3 F25 the Electric Water Pump Bleeding was working fine twice. Then, it stop after I used the Blue Devil Head Gasket Sealer. The Engine getting hot. So, I changed the Thermostat and clean out the Reservoir Tank. Same issue. Should I change the Water Pump? Is there fuse that I should check? I got 3 Codes: 1) CD9010 LIN, Message: Electric Coolant Pump: Missing. DTC Status: Current 2) 1A2004 Electric Fan, Actuating Wire: Line Disconnection DTC Status: Current 3) 1A2002 Electric Fan, Actuating Wire: Short Circuit to Ground DTC Status: Current Please help :) Thank you & God Bless
@@motorcarnut Yes... NEVER again... Now, I have a lot of headache. Changed the Thermostat, Clean out the Reservoir, need to change the Electric Coolant pump and flush the radiator again... to make sure all those blue googy out of the coolant system. The hard part is to locate the fuse or fuses :(.
I ended up replacing the water pump, thermostat and of course flush it with 50% vinegar and 50% distilled water! Actually, I have to flushed again so the particles in the coolant get flushed out! I used total 10 gallons for flushing 3 times :(. Now, it is back to normal I hope 😄😃😀thanks God!
Hi.. my F10 520i 2012, the radiator fan spins at max speed very loud especially when i stop or idling and with high outside temperatures. No overheating no error code. Flushed coolant, pulled a vaccum with tool and followed the bleeding procedure but problem still unresolved. Coolant flow stream in the tank is good so i assum the pump is good. Replaced thermostat and tempt sensor but no help. Been driving with this problem for over a year with no overheating. Please help no one has figured out the issue so far
Thanks for your reply. I must mention the fan is able to change the speed from low to medium and to maximum speed when the coolant temperature in the hidden menu on the cluster exceeds 95 degree Celsius.
@@motorcarnut the sensor on the top of the hosepipe ( have to drain the coolant ) the sensor you disconnect the clip then remove, the fans working when the AC is turned on but not to cool, I shall look into that, the pointed brass type sensor or the part that connects to it,thank you so much again
@@motorcarnut thank you now know what the module is ( I ment temp coolant sensor - the module is silver, im going to change both at once ( not expensive). But it's well worth it, thank you for you're help 👍
@@motorcarnut yes I've had a good look & done research- changed a relay ( from my friends BM - wasn't that but was a long shot as it works on AC) if I'm changing the coolant to change one thing I'll replace the coolant temp sensor ( which im sure it's not but being so cheap I'll do that also while I've drained it ) if it's not either if them then it is what you have said - which I believe it is now also, however the fan module I'll have to remove loads of parts etc so I'll try ( & hope 🤞 it's the easy & cheaper job first ) the fan module will take 2 days to arrive- I want to thank you very much for you good & prompt advice - throwing parts at it is not the answer I agree but them parts are cheaper to buy & ill only replace the coolant once, going for the ones I can do myself first to help my confidence etc) thank you very much,I'm recommending yr channel to a few people 👍, will tell you what solved the problem once it's fixed ( I've a feeling it's the fan module- researching to try it myself 👍
Never jump start OR attach a battery charger to the battery. You have got jumping points under the bonnet. they are not there for good looks!! Risking frying your modules and IBS!!
Actually your incorrect, the reason for the terminals under the hood are for more convenient jump starting than going into the trunk and loosing the panel to get to the battery. Actually the battery itself is the best way to charge battery.
I am sorry to hear that, I am glad you gave it a try! I'm pretty sure I have similar vehicles and it worked fine. Are you sure your water pump and wiring are fine?
@@motorcarnut yes I’m certainly thinking it’s the problem. Bottom hose line feels empty. Like I completely hear air when I squeeze it. I just had it all replaced less than 2 months ago. So weird
Do I do this before I change the thermostat or after?
After
Thx for the advice. One more question. I am trying to get the house off that goes to the radiator. The clip is out but it’s not coming off the thermostat. Any suggestions?
Try, a pry bar or similar pry on one side of the connector while wiggling the other side, be careful not to break the plastic.
Thanks for such a simple and easy video to follow. So once I have replaced the coolant tank, I need to fill up the coolant tank with coolant right to the top (to where the max is in the coolant reservoir) and then run the bleeding procedure to remove all the air pockets in the pipes, is that correct? When do you put the battery charger on? (do you put it on your positive and negative battery points right at the start as your doing the procedure? and is it pretty obvious when it's finished? (i.e. does the water pump stop going)
Thanks for the comment. Yes that is correct about the coolant level. Yes put the battery charger on before you start because the procedure can last for over 10 minutes. Now I had some models that did shut off by themselves and some that didn’t. If you start the procedure it should last for 10 to 15 minutes and shut off automatically if not 15 minutes max should be sufficient and you can stop the procedure manually.
@@motorcarnut How do you stop the procedure manually?
Just shut the car off and disconnect the battery charger
@@motorcarnut Thanks for the quick reply. By the way, what type of battery charger is good for AGM battery? Thank you.
Just look online or at harbor freight for one that is compatible with AGM batteries. There not that expensive.
Do I close the lid tight
When in operation? if its spilling out then yes.
I thought the reservoir cap needed to be on tight to do this. Is yours loose to relieve pressure in the process (taking finger off the too of your straw as a kid)
No, just like in the video
@@motorcarnut thanks! Great video as always
@pignapoke6772 thank you!
hello I have a question I have a 2013 BMW X3 F25 the Ford warning light is still rounding up and still on the board despite everything the bottle is full of water
If you’re talking about overflow tank is full but shows low on coolant than it could be the sensor inside the overflow tank is bad.
but I changed the capture still the same problem,
maybe other that has the inside of the bottle.
After this process will i off the ignition or start the engine
When you completed the process make sure overflow tank cap is installed then start the vehicle.
I've done this process a few times now. The engine seems to be just fine now, holding temp where it needs to be, but my heater blows cold. How do I get the air out of the heater core?
When you accelerate does the heat get hot? If so it’s probably air trapped. Try breaking the seal on the hose near the heater corr to let some coolant come out.
Hi. Thank you for your video. Question : What is the plastic screw in the hose for?
That’s a secondary bleeder but it’s not needed when you’re blending the system with the electric water pump.
Can you please help... My car BMW 2014 X3 F25 the Electric Water Pump Bleeding was working fine twice. Then, it stop after I used the Blue Devil Head Gasket Sealer. The Engine getting hot. So, I changed the Thermostat and clean out the Reservoir Tank. Same issue. Should I change the Water Pump? Is there fuse that I should check?
I got 3 Codes:
1) CD9010
LIN, Message: Electric Coolant Pump: Missing.
DTC Status: Current
2) 1A2004
Electric Fan, Actuating Wire: Line Disconnection
DTC Status: Current
3) 1A2002
Electric Fan, Actuating Wire: Short Circuit to Ground
DTC Status: Current
Please help :) Thank you & God Bless
Never use those sealers I have videos on that. Who knows what it did. Check fuses and wiring for those codes.
@@motorcarnut Yes... NEVER again... Now, I have a lot of headache. Changed the Thermostat, Clean out the Reservoir, need to change the Electric Coolant pump and flush the radiator again... to make sure all those blue googy out of the coolant system. The hard part is to locate the fuse or fuses :(.
Try disconnecting the battery for 5 minutes then reconnect, see if pump starts working
I ended up replacing the water pump, thermostat and of course flush it with 50% vinegar and 50% distilled water! Actually, I have to flushed again so the particles in the coolant get flushed out!
I used total 10 gallons for flushing 3 times :(.
Now, it is back to normal I hope 😄😃😀thanks God!
@mdang3662 great! Thanks for the update!
Is it safe to hook up the battery charger directly like that, or are you supposed to hook it up to the 2 terminals in the front?
Use the two in the front
Do i miss somewhere else, what to do after activate the pump? I did not see the water pumping out of the engine?
Make sure you hear the pump running , if it is add more coolant.
Thankyou so much mi friends you save me some money 💰 🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼
Awesome! That’s what I’m hoping to do!
Thank you sir!
You’re welcome!
My was working fine... Until, I pour Gasket sealer... it stop working and my thermostat stuck... :(
Sorry to hear that. You should post your experience with gasket sealers on my video about them
Hi.. my F10 520i 2012, the radiator fan spins at max speed very loud especially when i stop or idling and with high outside temperatures. No overheating no error code. Flushed coolant, pulled a vaccum with tool and followed the bleeding procedure but problem still unresolved. Coolant flow stream in the tank is good so i assum the pump is good. Replaced thermostat and tempt sensor but no help. Been driving with this problem for over a year with no overheating. Please help no one has figured out the issue so far
Sounds like a cooling fan module went bad. It’s part of the fan assembly on some models it can be replaced separately.
Thanks for your reply. I must mention the fan is able to change the speed from low to medium and to maximum speed when the coolant temperature in the hidden menu on the cluster exceeds 95 degree Celsius.
@kevinmpe8363 still sounds like the fan module to me. I would have it checked
Thanks. I will have to order a fan, even used one and see what happens. Thanks alot
@kevinmpe8363 no problem
I did this but don’t hear the pump running it’s just clicking what would you suggest
Make sure it’s not running by looking in the overflow tank and if not can be the water pump itself or the wiring circuit.
Thanks bro 💯
No problem! Thank you as well!
For the life of me, I cant locate the coolant drain plug. Ive been searching for years now. I have bmw x1 2014 xdrive 28i. Can you help me locate it?
Lol, because it doesn’t have one. You have to drain the coolant by removing the lower radiator hose.
Brilliant video. Thanks
Glad it was helpful!
HEEELP 2017 116D & the coolant fan is not coming on, comes on for AC but not to cool & its overheating badly- thank you in advance
Probably the fan sensor module, has to be checked with a scan tool for operation. Also make sure car doesn’t have a blown head gasket.
@@motorcarnut the sensor on the top of the hosepipe ( have to drain the coolant ) the sensor you disconnect the clip then remove, the fans working when the AC is turned on but not to cool, I shall look into that, the pointed brass type sensor or the part that connects to it,thank you so much again
@@motorcarnut thank you now know what the module is ( I ment temp coolant sensor - the module is silver, im going to change both at once ( not expensive). But it's well worth it, thank you for you're help 👍
No problem, but it’s good to diagnose the problems like a stated before instead of throwing parts at the problem but good luck.
@@motorcarnut yes I've had a good look & done research- changed a relay ( from my friends BM - wasn't that but was a long shot as it works on AC) if I'm changing the coolant to change one thing I'll replace the coolant temp sensor ( which im sure it's not but being so cheap I'll do that also while I've drained it ) if it's not either if them then it is what you have said - which I believe it is now also, however the fan module I'll have to remove loads of parts etc so I'll try ( & hope 🤞 it's the easy & cheaper job first ) the fan module will take 2 days to arrive- I want to thank you very much for you good & prompt advice - throwing parts at it is not the answer I agree but them parts are cheaper to buy & ill only replace the coolant once, going for the ones I can do myself first to help my confidence etc) thank you very much,I'm recommending yr channel to a few people 👍, will tell you what solved the problem once it's fixed ( I've a feeling it's the fan module- researching to try it myself 👍
Never jump start OR attach a battery charger to the battery. You have got jumping points under the bonnet. they are not there for good looks!! Risking frying your modules and IBS!!
Actually your incorrect, the reason for the terminals under the hood are for more convenient jump starting than going into the trunk and loosing the panel to get to the battery. Actually the battery itself is the best way to charge battery.
i think that might be sage advice on Mercedes, however.
Same thing. Mercedes or Kia, they all operate on a 12 volt system
This does not work for all BMWs. I have a 2011 x5 50i and i can tell you this method wont start the pump
I am sorry to hear that, I am glad you gave it a try! I'm pretty sure I have similar vehicles and it worked fine. Are you sure your water pump and wiring are fine?
@@motorcarnut X5 50i do not have an electric pump 😉 You have to turn on, defrost, and burp method
Oh, of course, this procedure is for electric water pumps that's why.
Mine is not turning on when I hold it down for 10 seconds??
Then maybe the water pump is your problem. Or the wiring to it.
@@motorcarnut yes I’m certainly thinking it’s the problem. Bottom hose line feels empty. Like I completely hear air when I squeeze it. I just had it all replaced less than 2 months ago. So weird
Try touching the water pump while doing that procedure and see if it’s vibrating
❤واو
Thank you!