Bryan, appreciate all your DIY's! I started this job on my 2014 335i and had a few additional tips and clarifications if you don't mind. 1. The fuse you pulled to allow priming of oil is the first installed fuse in that row but the second fuse opening. There isn't any fuse in the first position. It can be confusing. 2. It's a good idea to change out the thermostat hose flange while you're doing this job. The flange on my car (35k mileage) was completely shot. I'm guessing this flange's life is base on time and not mileage. There are many aluminum ones available that'll last forever (hopefully). Some mention using cutters to take of the metal band holding the hose to the flange. That's insane. You're not going to reuse the flange so just crush is carefully and pull out. Then you can wiggle the metal band out. Easy. 3. Changing out the flange also allows you proper access (using an e-torx socket) to the lower torx bolt on the oil filter housing. Using an 8mm ratcheting wrench is a good work around BUT my bolt was torqued on so tightly my wrench just slipped and messed up the bolt. Or, if you have one, the proper ratcheting e-torx wrench. Hope this help some others attempting this job.
Ope. I guess my engine is dead then. I’ve only put on 50,000 miles after the oil filter housing gasket so probably too early to tell if I’ve ruined the engine LOL. Thousands of these have been done in peoples driveway. This problem is definitely over blown on the forums.
Yeesh... Well I tried to prime even after pullingfuse 165 the car started.... 2016 here so hopefully you guys are right that it's a small percentage of early n55 failure
No it isn’t. If you’re doing all this and the car is higher mileage these gasket replacements make absolutely sense. Cheap and preventative maintenance… you’d be silly not to do all that.
Just replaced on a 2015 528i , after watching your video, took me 4 hrs. and cost $150 in parts, saved $1k . thanks. I am mechanically experienced, I had no problem , it was a lot easier on my car to change
just did this job following this tutorial. perfect example of doing it right. just be sure the fuel lines are out of fuel completely, the engine may shut itself off but there is enough fuel left for one more start, crank until it no longer turns over. then proceed with job and priming will work as intended.If you are scared, do the job its super easy and satisfying. my local bmw dealership quoted me $2100. cost me $200 for every gasket seal nut and bolt. including tensioner belt and pulley.
Another great video, Bryan. All details covered and excellent camera and editing work by Zac. Makes me feel like I was right there watching and learning! 😎
This video was very helpful, although I wish my life had a quick cut for the "then just do this and this and poof" because a few of those steps required proper amounts of cursing to compensate for experience.
Snap On makes a 1/4” drive swivel e10 socket that enables you to reach the hidden bolt without removing the manifold on the N52 engine. Does anyone know if it works on the N55?
Old school tip taught to me by my Father - Never tighten something with a Torque Wrench. Get it snug with a ratchet, socket, wrench, etc. THEN, when snug, tighten with a Torque Wrench.
Quick PSA from a 12 year F30 335i Xdrive MSport: Things you NEED to check by at least 60k to 100k or you'll be stuck!! -OFHG replace when it's leaking! -Tank to radiator top hose (super easy fix, 90 degree angle makes it a fail point, boom, fluid all over your engine when it fails). When it does, look for the steam!! 😮 -Valve cover gasket, note the PCV valve is part of the cover so if you need to replace that, you need to replace the whole thing! When it leaks, you'll see oil burning off of your exhaust downpipe 😮 -Charge pipe...will blow by 70k -Timing belt and tensioner easy fix by 60k I'm sure there are way smarter people that have made videos about these...
On my 2013 335i M Sport has a few differences from the video. First, the oxygen sensor connection has a different clip. There seems to be two bolts on the intake manifold near the oil filter housing. Any idea how to remove the o2 clips?
I finally am impressed. My 2011 535 N55 is leaking on the oil filter adapter and the valve cover. I have watched many videos on this and this one is the absolute first that the intake manifold gaskets have been replaced instead of just bolting it back using the old gaskets. Must be a lot of cars out there with leaking intake manifolds. One video I watched, the guy was able to get to the hidden bolt by taking off the alternator. Good Job! Thanks.
Anyone watching today? Is this the same process for an N55 2017 M2?? I’m about to go ham on the OFHG, charge-pipe, coolant pump, thermo, tensioner, idler pulley and belt and figured I may as well do it all in one go.
I know this is old and you may not care to answer, but when doing repairs (specifically this one), should I disconnect the battery or will it be fine as long as I keep the FOB away from the vehicle?
great instructions for changing the seal on the other hand in France no mechanic does the priming of the engine before starting and no engine breakage It is important to fill the filter support with oil the oil goes directly into the pump oil (thanks Bryan)
I just did my OFGH gasket but was not aware of the priming requirement. I have a VANOS camshaft clamp error now. Very worried now that my simple maintenance job will not end well. Positive reassuring comments welcome 🙏
The priming seems only required in the US with cold weather (below 0). Apparrantly it is related with the pump blocking. If you search in the fora you will find no European car with a seized up engine after the gasket change.
I've been debating on grabbing an F10 535i but I've never owned German. Always American and Japanese so I've been worried about working on them because I've heard many nightmares. After watching a few of your videos, I think they're even easier to work than American. I'm definitely going to be picking one up.
Do it...I like Japanese of course but love German bimmers...they are on a different level of quality of craftsmanship and performance.... Japanese are fine but the performance is hard to get cheap... A used beamer is cheap... All their original parts last easily 100k...most*....no other manufacturers are even close to be honest
What's the reason of needing to prime the pump here vs when doing a normal oil change? Is it because removing the housing and lines breaks a vacuum of some sort?
@@NagashiChidorii From some recent reading, it seems that there is a check-valve that goes to the oil pump (23:30 top right). When you do an oil change, you'll only empty some of the thermostat area and other cavities in the housing - so minimal air. The check-valve will prevent the supply line from emptying, and your oil cooler lines will mostly remain filled. When you remove the housing however, that vacuum is broken so there will be air in that entire passage down to the pump which I'm guessing is a decent amount of air along with a full drain of the cavities in the housing. When doing other things like oil cooler, again - potential for bigger pockets of air. Assuming the above is true, when @kiesmotorsport pours the oil into the housing, I'm guessing its not going to the pump line as described but rather either A) back to the sump, B) through the "filtered oil" line into the block. Either way, its all about getting rid of as much air as possible so good practice regardless.
Hey bro I hope you will se the com. I removed fuse 165 and started the car, but the engine still runs, it does not turn over without ignition. What to do?
Excellent video, just like all the videos you do 👍. Any chance you can do an OFHG on a B48, which has the unit in the rear of the engine? There are no good videos around of this job.
Hi Brian. Man thank you so much brother. You have helped me a great deal and I have been able to save money countless times because of your videos. You must know that your work has a positive influence all over the world bro. I'm in South Africa by the way. Keep doing what you do. God bless.
Hello Brian, you did a fantastic job showing us how to install a new oil filter housing gasket. I guess since I am going to have to replace the housing gasket I might as well do an oil change, change the coolant, change the engine belt, change the manifold gaskets, and install a crankshaft seal guard. You said you were going to leave an explanation on how to drain the coolant without a vacuum bleeder but I don't see it. Could you please explain how to bleed the coolant?
I personally see no need to replace any bolts. They aren’t torqued highly so I can’t see they would then be a stretch type bolt. When I do mine I’m reusing all the bolts and nuts.
Love your videos, very informative. Just replaced mine on my F82. Quite a bit different with the charge cooler. You should make a video on the F8X chassis since no videos of it exist.
Would you recommend doing this preventatively? Or just wait till it leaks? My F30 N55 is a unicorn at 75k and still not leaking 🤞🏻😬🤷🏻♂️. Been checking for signs with paranoia every oil change lol.
Bryan, appreciate all your DIY's! I started this job on my 2014 335i and had a few additional tips and clarifications if you don't mind.
1. The fuse you pulled to allow priming of oil is the first installed fuse in that row but the second fuse opening. There isn't any fuse in the first position. It can be confusing.
2. It's a good idea to change out the thermostat hose flange while you're doing this job. The flange on my car (35k mileage) was completely shot. I'm guessing this flange's life is base on time and not mileage. There are many aluminum ones available that'll last forever (hopefully). Some mention using cutters to take of the metal band holding the hose to the flange. That's insane. You're not going to reuse the flange so just crush is carefully and pull out. Then you can wiggle the metal band out. Easy.
3. Changing out the flange also allows you proper access (using an e-torx socket) to the lower torx bolt on the oil filter housing. Using an 8mm ratcheting wrench is a good work around BUT my bolt was torqued on so tightly my wrench just slipped and messed up the bolt. Or, if you have one, the proper ratcheting e-torx wrench.
Hope this help some others attempting this job.
Don’t forget to prime the engine before startup after doing the OFHG. That’s the reason people get spun rod bearings on the N55
Ope. I guess my engine is dead then. I’ve only put on 50,000 miles after the oil filter housing gasket so probably too early to tell if I’ve ruined the engine LOL. Thousands of these have been done in peoples driveway. This problem is definitely over blown on the forums.
@@slscamg you did not re-prime after changing the seal
@@slscamg From what I've researched this issue is mainly with the first couple years of the N55. 2011 and 2012.
Yeesh... Well I tried to prime even after pullingfuse 165 the car started.... 2016 here so hopefully you guys are right that it's a small percentage of early n55 failure
What does it mean to prime the engine?
Excellent tutorial on how to change the ofhg on the n55! Cant forget to PRIME your engine before you start
BMW Engineer, "I need to look smart so I will call the torque for the oil drain plug at 24.9nm", lol do 25nm KISS................
I don't see the link to the seal guard vid... Also, why didn't you oil coat any of the gaskets you replaced???
New nuts and bolts and intake gaskets is way overkill.
No it isn’t. If you’re doing all this and the car is higher mileage these gasket replacements make absolutely sense. Cheap and preventative maintenance… you’d be silly not to do all that.
Hello, nice video. Where did you get the 16Nm and 23Nm torqe specs from? Mosselman manual says 18Nm and FCP Euro says 23Nm on the housing. Thanks
Just replaced on a 2015 528i , after watching your video, took me 4 hrs. and cost $150 in parts, saved $1k . thanks. I am mechanically experienced, I had no problem , it was a lot easier on my car to change
just did this job following this tutorial. perfect example of doing it right. just be sure the fuel lines are out of fuel completely, the engine may shut itself off but there is enough fuel left for one more start, crank until it no longer turns over. then proceed with job and priming will work as intended.If you are scared, do the job its super easy and satisfying. my local bmw dealership quoted me $2100. cost me $200 for every gasket seal nut and bolt. including tensioner belt and pulley.
Another great video, Bryan. All details covered and excellent camera and editing work by Zac. Makes me feel like I was right there watching and learning! 😎
Annoying that i had to loosen intake manifold -- otherwise it would have been an easy task.
This video was very helpful, although I wish my life had a quick cut for the "then just do this and this and poof" because a few of those steps required proper amounts of cursing to compensate for experience.
Finally, the request we all have been waiting for. Keep those maintenance videos coming!
Exactly lol, great one
Snap On makes a 1/4” drive swivel e10 socket that enables you to reach the hidden bolt without removing the manifold on the N52 engine. Does anyone know if it works on the N55?
Old school tip taught to me by my Father - Never tighten something with a Torque Wrench. Get it snug with a ratchet, socket, wrench, etc. THEN, when snug, tighten with a Torque Wrench.
Reason?
@@ademc8872 saves cycles on your torque wrench
@@BaZOOka39lifetime warranty on the torque wrench. Doesn’t matter
Well done guys!! Great stuff, and keep up the great work!
Quick PSA from a 12 year F30 335i Xdrive MSport:
Things you NEED to check by at least 60k to 100k or you'll be stuck!!
-OFHG replace when it's leaking!
-Tank to radiator top hose (super easy fix, 90 degree angle makes it a fail point, boom, fluid all over your engine when it fails). When it does, look for the steam!! 😮
-Valve cover gasket, note the PCV valve is part of the cover so if you need to replace that, you need to replace the whole thing! When it leaks, you'll see oil burning off of your exhaust downpipe 😮
-Charge pipe...will blow by 70k
-Timing belt and tensioner easy fix by 60k
I'm sure there are way smarter people that have made videos about these...
On my 2013 335i M Sport has a few differences from the video. First, the oxygen sensor connection has a different clip. There seems to be two bolts on the intake manifold near the oil filter housing. Any idea how to remove the o2 clips?
If you live in VA or Dc area I can help you replace these gaskets easy I just replaced mine in my bmw f30 335i let me know anytime
Can this failing cause smoke coming from exhaust. I don’t want to take apart engine for head gaskets yet.
I finally am impressed. My 2011 535 N55 is leaking on the oil filter adapter and the valve cover. I have watched many videos on this and this one is the absolute first that the intake manifold gaskets have been replaced instead of just bolting it back using the old gaskets. Must be a lot of cars out there with leaking intake manifolds. One video I watched, the guy was able to get to the hidden bolt by taking off the alternator. Good Job! Thanks.
Can you provide the link to the replacement intake manifold bolts and nuts?
Have you found these yet?? I can't seem to find them anywhere...
Anyone watching today? Is this the same process for an N55 2017 M2?? I’m about to go ham on the OFHG, charge-pipe, coolant pump, thermo, tensioner, idler pulley and belt and figured I may as well do it all in one go.
the resulotion is 360
Madness for a oil filter housing gasket 😭😭😭😭😭
That’s the fun in it
this one scares me... ps lead with pulling the fuse 165 everyone :-)
i have a 2011 535i which has a different set up at the oil cooler, is there a way to do the same transformation for it?
Does the cooler line o-ring come in a typical o-ring replacement set or would it be a special order item?
Can i get mosselmen oil thermostat for n55 bmw x5 e70?
So in order to replace it do you have to drain the oil
Awesome video Brian, just one question, what was the time span of this entire job? Thxs
Why is priming needed compared to usual oil change?
Do you got to prime oil after oil change too?
I know this is old and you may not care to answer, but when doing repairs (specifically this one), should I disconnect the battery or will it be fine as long as I keep the FOB away from the vehicle?
You’ll be fine if you keep key fob away from vehicle but it doesn’t hurt to unplug the battery either 👍
great instructions for changing the seal on the other hand in France no mechanic does the priming of the engine before starting and no engine breakage It is important to fill the filter support with oil the oil goes directly into the pump oil (thanks Bryan)
I just did my OFGH gasket but was not aware of the priming requirement. I have a VANOS camshaft clamp error now. Very worried now that my simple maintenance job will not end well. Positive reassuring comments welcome 🙏
The priming seems only required in the US with cold weather (below 0). Apparrantly it is related with the pump blocking. If you search in the fora you will find no European car with a seized up engine after the gasket change.
when does the coolant bleed come into play???????
All these electric things make me think about an electric car more snd more…but amazing video!
I've been debating on grabbing an F10 535i but I've never owned German. Always American and Japanese so I've been worried about working on them because I've heard many nightmares. After watching a few of your videos, I think they're even easier to work than American. I'm definitely going to be picking one up.
Do it...I like Japanese of course but love German bimmers...they are on a different level of quality of craftsmanship and performance.... Japanese are fine but the performance is hard to get cheap... A used beamer is cheap... All their original parts last easily 100k...most*....no other manufacturers are even close to be honest
At least test drive a few...did u get one?
My N55 dont look that way 😯
Jeez, the missing SPEC! Torque the intake to 15 N Meters. I been tryna confirm this. Thank you from Kev in NJ ☘️
What's the reason of needing to prime the pump here vs when doing a normal oil change? Is it because removing the housing and lines breaks a vacuum of some sort?
good question. I wish someone had answered you because I was wondering the same thing!!!
@@NagashiChidorii From some recent reading, it seems that there is a check-valve that goes to the oil pump (23:30 top right). When you do an oil change, you'll only empty some of the thermostat area and other cavities in the housing - so minimal air. The check-valve will prevent the supply line from emptying, and your oil cooler lines will mostly remain filled.
When you remove the housing however, that vacuum is broken so there will be air in that entire passage down to the pump which I'm guessing is a decent amount of air along with a full drain of the cavities in the housing. When doing other things like oil cooler, again - potential for bigger pockets of air.
Assuming the above is true, when @kiesmotorsport pours the oil into the housing, I'm guessing its not going to the pump line as described but rather either A) back to the sump, B) through the "filtered oil" line into the block. Either way, its all about getting rid of as much air as possible so good practice regardless.
Hey bro I hope you will se the com. I removed fuse 165 and started the car, but the engine still runs, it does not turn over without ignition. What to do?
11:36, what screw is this ?
Excellent video, just like all the videos you do 👍. Any chance you can do an OFHG on a B48, which has the unit in the rear of the engine? There are no good videos around of this job.
and adding the new coolant
Mosselman’s installation manual says 18Nm of torque and this video say 16Nm. May want to update this video.
Hi Brian. Man thank you so much brother. You have helped me a great deal and I have been able to save money countless times because of your videos. You must know that your work has a positive influence all over the world bro. I'm in South Africa by the way. Keep doing what you do. God bless.
My radiator fan isn’t coming on after replacing my gaskets. Any idea what I screwed up?
Hello Brian, you did a fantastic job showing us how to install a new oil filter housing gasket. I guess since I am going to have to replace the housing gasket I might as well do an oil change, change the coolant, change the engine belt, change the manifold gaskets, and install a crankshaft seal guard. You said you were going to leave an explanation on how to drain the coolant without a vacuum bleeder but I don't see it. Could you please explain how to bleed the coolant?
I'm getting my oil filter housing gasket replaced and i'm wondering if getting the coolant serviced should be an extra charge?
Thank you ❤
Does anyone know where to find the T30 oil cooler line bolt? Or the part number?
Why only 360p😂😂😂 I feel like I am in the year of 2005😂😂😂😂
3 hours and still 360p only....just youtube things :D
This is the sleeper version of the n20/n26 timing chain issue, similar outcome, engine ded
i wish i watched the insulation foam part yesterday LOL
I have a 2013 535i. I removed 2 bolts and 4 nuts from the intake manifold and it won't budge. What am I missing I(other than mechanical aptitude)?
did you loosen the charge pipe like he did?
Hey Brayan. What kind of oil did you use for that car ? Thank you!
Anyone have a part number on the oil cooler line O-rings?
Do you need to drain the coolant and oil? or is that just optional?
@kies motorsports why is the video resolution sooooooo low????
Is this the same process for the e9x n55?
what is the price of labor on that job through your shop
Damnit...28 minutes late...good video 👍
Every recent video is exactly what I’ve been needing to do to mines but I just got mine 2 weeks ago
Mosselman Turbo!!! True Dutch engineering
What’s so different in the cooler?
I thought you guys use liqui moly oil ??
Will mosselman fit the n52 engine?
Do we needs new bolts and nuts for intake manifold as well as for the oil filter housing or just the intake manifold?
I personally see no need to replace any bolts. They aren’t torqued highly so I can’t see they would then be a stretch type bolt.
When I do mine I’m reusing all the bolts and nuts.
Can you do a carbon clean video on a b58
360P? We back in 2004?
Nice 👍 good stuff
360 quality?
For mediterranean f30, blackline oleds or red oleds, what do you think?
Red
@@CastroJordan thankss
Will this fit
Love the videos very informative
good👍
5th
Love your videos, very informative. Just replaced mine on my F82. Quite a bit different with the charge cooler. You should make a video on the F8X chassis since no videos of it exist.
I have a video up of that exact thing, and am a friend of Kies, so not trying to steal their views. 8)
@@BMWDIYGuyu have a link? Cant find it.
How often do you recommend oil changes on a b58 440i? On my E92 328 I used to do them every 10k
5K
5k maximum
5k is a waste of money. 7.5k to 10k is fine for me
10k km or 7500miles.
What does that tattoo mean? @brian
It’s from the Bible. It’s a response to the Lord for faithful discipleship. “Whom shall I send?” “Here am I, Lord. Send me.”
+1
Pulling the 165 fuse did nothing
I got a better way
Pull harness from injectors, then prime it.
First! lol
Would you recommend doing this preventatively? Or just wait till it leaks? My F30 N55 is a unicorn at 75k and still not leaking 🤞🏻😬🤷🏻♂️. Been checking for signs with paranoia every oil change lol.
Same hahah
Mines at 138k and still isn't leaking..
Started leaking at 94k ☹️
80k on m235i no sign of leaking either.
Bro when it rains it pours. 77k leak here.
Don’t forget a new upper hose CYLINDER HEAD TO THERMOSTAT and TORQUE YOUR BOLTS or you will be doing it again.