Printing at 2mm Layer Height
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- Опубліковано 10 гру 2016
- Hold onto your layers because today we are using a 2mm diameter nozzle! Let’s see what happens.
Nozzle: www.ebay.com/itm/like/29179066...
Prints:
Hexagonal Vase: www.thingiverse.com/thing:18672
Gear Vase: www.thingiverse.com/thing:104694
Curved Vase: www.thingiverse.com/thing:1210380
Stanford Bunny: www.thingiverse.com/thing:151081
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Instagram, Twitter, Thingiverse and basically everything else: XYZAidan
Music: Tobu - Cool: • Tobu, Wholm & Blume - ... - Наука та технологія
Since a lot of people are asking and I seemingly forgot to mention it in the video: I was printing with 3mm filament, NOT 1.75mm.
With dat nozzle, i would buy a filament recycle machine :P
You should try transparent filament, I think that would give an awesome effect
Nice! It's interesting how even with the halving of print speeds you still come out on top - that's a lot more plastic to heat and cool. The first layer bubbles could be a backpressure issue? Perhaps with such a large hole air can more easily get passed through vs a .4 nozzle, no clue really. Also, you have a new email ;)
Maker's Muse thanks, I think I will have to research cooling and how it affects printing like this, especially with your vase!
just finished a 0.8mm layer height with 1.2mm nozzle on a volcano. I noticed when printing at 5mm/s on first layer i had bubbles and my assumption is due to to higher nozzle set temperature. Turned temp down and bubbles went away. When printing at such large volumetric rates I usually find i have to crank the temperature setting right up to get enough heat into the plastic so when you slow down for first layer the plastic overheats and ??boils?? or decomposes. Awesome to see someone going big on the layer height
OMG hi i love your videos
This nozzle is actually thicker than my 1.75 filament, oh man crazy stuff!
I though the same thing when I got it!
I assumed you were using 3mm filament with it.
cheeto4493 I am using 3mm filament.
good, 'cause I couldn't see how it would work well with anything smaller
3D Solex offers up to 2mm nozzles for 1.75mm filament. How? They have interior geometry using strategically drilled holes (at an angle) from both ends, that splits the filament stream into two, then recombining them into an orifice chamber. It's pretty clever.
its like a hot glue gun nozle
The vases look pretty good actually!
I like the pronounced lines.
Maikel Versantvoort thanks!
That was wild men, I love this kind of videos, hope you do more things with that nozzle
It kinda makes me want to crush those vases and see those layers separating
I do like the look of the finished prints.
Been looking forward to this one, great stuff, Aidan! Printing big and fast clearly has it's benefits - I keep thinking of the 3D printed car by Local Motors. Combined with a Z-unlimited mod, printing furniture also comes to mind. Gotta order some of these nozzles 👍🏽
Thanks so much! I thought of the Strati and really big prints like furniture as well. I'd love to see what you'd do with something like this!
you can also change settings in your slicer (cura etc) and see how print times change. Im using a .8 mm nozzle and .7mm layer height currently since I am printing bigger things that do not have detail, do not need to be smooth, and will not be holding weight. So far these prints are finishing faster and work fine.
The extrusion width that works best then is the same as the filament thickness heheh. I love that yellow vase
1:18
i'm pretty sure it's made for clay/LDM 3d printing
This was downright fascinating. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you very much!
Aren’t your layer heights supposed to be less than 80% of your nozzle size?
"supposed"
Very Interesting!
Can you share some of your exact settings for these huge nozzles?
What temps and speeds in particular are you running at?
I find that with large nozzles the sweet spot between speed and temp so there is no stringing or "cornrows" between wall layers is very small. I am trying to print large concrete forms that do not have to be high resolution but normal print times are far too long. Any input on temp and speeds would be helpful!
The 2mm diameter nozzle, and plenty other nozzles bigger than that, are usually made for rivet guns. The thicker rivets need thicker nozzles.
I always presumed these kind of nozzles were not intended to allow really thick layer 'heights' but rather to give thick extrusion widths. If your parts can accommodate a 2mm wall, print them with 0.5mm layer height and get fast prints that way.... Might need a bit of tweaking with ooze and retraction settings though.
I just purchased a 1.4mm bondtech CHT nozzle. It's recommended to use with 1.75mm filament... this is going to be fun.
That’s funny. I just did a similar video on my channel (3mm nozzle) and instinctively used nearly the same thumbnail setup. Also ultimaker. Very nice!
i dont have a 3d printer but would it help to set the layers smaller so that it squishes it into a brought lane?
your first layer issue sounds like a pressure imbalance in the nozzle maybe try pre print wipe
Would you recommend 3mm filament if you were going to do this a lot? Would that allow a speed increase?
You write exquisite narrations, very elaborate and eloquent, but maybe try to improvise more. Your fantastic work will surely benefit from some more natural face of the host. You're great, keep it up! :)
Thanks, I've been getting similar feedback a lot recently. I'll be sure to work on it.
What about a benchy?
Yay for percussion!
I have looked online. Where did u get the nozzle?
What I would do is use it as a scaffolding and add something to smooth the bumps, like clay.
Neat idea Aidan :) May have to try it out my self some time.
Thank you!
man i have a 1.2mm nozzle and I have massive problems with the first layer...
Those those tick layer lines actually look very cool! I also wonder if acetone vapor smoothing would work on this. If it works, this would be a really good way to print smooth objects very quickly. But I suppose the layers might be too thick for vapor smoothing...
Indeed! That's an interesting idea. Since there's a lot of material per layer, not much smoothing may happen, but if more vapor was used the whole thing might just melt. Regardless, it's definitely something to think about!
Epoxy coating probably more practicle
With a nozzle that big what kinda layer width could you push?
Great video!
This is cool. I saw your presentation on the Adafruit show and tell. It is nice to learn more about it.
Perspectologist thanks!
Link please?
PhotoBooth biz I don't have a direct link, but if you search UA-cam for "Adafruit Show and Tell" and look for the video released before this one you may be able to find it. Perhaps Aidan may have a direct link.
if you set the line width to something bigger than 2mm say 2,4mm (120%) and reduce the layer height just a tad to 1.65mm (82,5%) the plastic will have no option but to be squished to the layer below, hence assuring a full contact between layers and so water tight.
I made a follow-up to this specifically about printing watertight: ua-cam.com/video/JexR9lMn_tU/v-deo.html
Wow, that's amazing!!
I had the same issue with the first layer when I was printing out badges for a Race, it was placing the models a little bit higher than needed. it's most likely an error in the software when calculating for a .2 mm nozzle.
That's interesting and I'll have to take a look to see if that may be the cause, thanks for the input.
I'd say the first layer is cooling off quicker because off the contact with the base which may change the shape of the material faster than you'd like.
0mnis14sh good idea! I might do some testing with higher bed temperatures
Also I am curious: are there 3D printer models that use secondary nozzles, so that it would be possible to create f.e. a sturdy 2mm baseline, switch to .2 and have more details on the outer parts? Would definitely improve the flexibility of designing in 3d
I remember that someone in the community was working on such an idea, but I'm having trouble finding their work right now.
the ebay link doesn't work anymore :(
Hey, a laser cut 3d printer!
How about a 3D printed laser cutter?
How about a 3D cutter printing a laser?
I think I know what's causing the 1st layer to be all squished. You should lower the bed by a mm or so, maybe less. I think that might help
2:08 You should really wash that glass plate off with water and reapply a layer of glue stick. In my experience that will cause the first layer to stick very well and to look awesome at the same time (I clean the bed after 10 prints or something like that).
What I love abt thicc layers is the rims of vases don't look unfinished.
Did you have your fan on for the first layer? If so I think the cause of the bubbling was from the fan blowing onto the bed and air getting trapped under the plastic whiles it’s being laid down. It could be the plastic having some imperfections that were flattened while printing the first layer but then it would show for the entire print...
I didn't use a fan at all actually, but air might definitely has something to do with it.
XYZAidan yeah, I’d think so. Great job with the video btw. I’m building a printer that will have a .6mm nozzle but it won’t be anything similar to what you did here 😆
Thank you, and good luck with your printer.
How was layer adhesion? Looks like the mass of the layer would keep it soft enough that the next layer would bond good. As long as your hot end could keep the extrusion hot enough.
cheeto4493 layer adhesion turned out well!
Can u coat a print with carbon fibre and do a durability test
I use a 2 mm nozzle all the time and have none of the issues you mentioned. proper Z offset is critical for the first layer and slower speeds also. the only other change is the extrusion multiplier should be at or below 0.75. check my channel for some timelapse videos that I did or send me a message and I can probably help you with settings to get better results. really enjoyed your video.
Maybe large nozzles are really the way to go. 0.4mm polymer wall really won't support much load, at least double that is more like it. You can't have sharp corners, but perhaps otherwise, dimensional precision and little ridging can be achieved if extrusion is good and layer height is less than half the nozzle width, i.e. with well calculated squishing action. But at layer heights approaching the nozzle width, the prints are spectacular in their own right.
There's definitely a lot of truth to what you're saying, and I think using a larger nozzle is a great way to create interesting new prints. I had made a video subsequently about using large nozzles to print watertight parts and at some point I'll make a video testing the strength of such parts.
Hi, great video! We really needed it! I can't find the 2.0 mm nozzle and the link seems not to work. Are you sure it is the right one?
Thanks! I've fixed the link :)
Hi, are you using a Teleprompter ?
Interesting. You earned a sub!
*Filament Roll*: HERE THEY COME HERE THEY COME MY BROTHERS FIGHT MY BROTHERSSSS
No expert here but working with similar compounds my guess would be that the first layer cools too fast when it hits the cold plate. That effect would then dissappear once you hit the second layer as that hits the warmer bottom layer. Dont know if 3d printer bottom plates are heated though... if so it obviously wouldnt be the problem
In this particular case, the build plate was heated, but to a temperature much lower than the nozzle, so it's possible you're right.
did you use 2.85mm filament?
New subscriber from Australia 🤜🏼🤛🏼🍀🇦🇺😎
Excellent video Aidan!!!
I found your UA-cam channel thanks too “Makers Muse” UA-cam channel, also Australian.
I’d love to see what a 3d printer that uses the large diameter filament can do!!
Thank you for the compliments and support!
Very interesting views, great job!
Ron DLH thank you!
Who makes this nozzle? Best I can find is a 1.8 nozzle by Bondtech.
i got it from some random Chinese manufacturer on ebay lol
every issue is probably related to temp control
Maybe you can help me.
I print big, thick things. That takes time, too much time.
All of my prints are 100% infilled due to durability.
What if a large nozzle did all the infilling and every x layers.
My prints also have lots of small surface details like text.
My problem is that the small details are now left un-infilled / hollow.
Do you know a way to solve this issue?
you cannot do details and large layer height in the same print. people have tried.. maybe with a complex dual extruder.
100% infill is Not good ! Its not better than 60 or something like that
Just use thick shells, way stronger and faster then high infills. Thick shells with 50% infill is stronger and faster than thin shells with 100% infill
it is like the Local Motors printer for automotive parts. did you try to print shells for electronics or parts as car outdoor mirror?
ilovedoom it's similar in a lot of ways I guess. They were printing around 10mm layer height, and then did a secondary CNC milling operation on it afterwards. I think if I wanted to make enclosures like you say, I'd also have to do some secondary operation.
XYZAidan thanks. looking forward to your videos with such quality of interest on unique 3d printing topics
Looking good!
Thanks!
You are welcome! If you have more 3D models, please, feel free to share it on PARTcloud.net portal. I am sure members will like it and it is a good marketing for you also. Good luck!
Angus sent me.. great video!
Maybe make 2 bottom layers so it doesnt leak
Did you prime the nozzle well before layer 1
yep
yo, this is great, but what printer is that?
Ultimaker Original +
Did u use a 1.75 filament on a 2mm nozzle?
No, 3mm filament.
Awesome ! May I know where did you get the nozzle ?
TAN Yee Hsien thanks! I have a link to where I bought it in the description
Oh thanks ! I didn't see the link :p
Hi there ! So I have received my 2mm nozzle. However, I couldn't get the 3mm filament to extrude. Did you do any additional modifications such as using a larger thermal barrier tube ? I have a Replicator 2. Thanks a ot !
i built myself a Dodecahedron mug like whats shown at 3:54 out of clay in art class
nice!
thank you so much for replying, that made my day
Have you seen the Warthog 3d Clay printers?
que hace con tantos floreros
How many watts was your heater block running at please? Love this!!!
PhotoBooth biz Thank you, the stock Ultimaker heat element is 40W.
awesome! that is what I have too. wonder if there is a way to add more heat to it to make it extrude even faster, lol, really pushing my luck right!
PhotoBooth biz cool! I'm sure more heat would help, but I'd be afraid that due to the thickness of extrusion, there would be a greater temperature difference between the outside and inside of the extrusion.
You cant extruder a layer the same height as your nozzle. .32 for .4mm nozzle. so 1.6mm for 2mm nozzle
Cutler Cycles i do exactly that in this video
People keep going on about 2 mm but what about 12.7mm? Would it even be possible?
The Nth Son I mean maybe but you’d need a highly specialized system and probably a pellet extruder
good video! inspiring! thanks!
Thank you!
You’re usually not supposed to go past 75% of your nozzle diameter four layer height
Chloe Mcholoe usually is the key word here
5 times bigger nozzle does not mean 5x speed. It means 25x speed, i.e. higher layer and wider printing strip.
Alexey Voronin Not in the case of vase mode, as the width is not set to a particular thickness.
Plus the print speed would need to be the same for those timings (which would require an upgraded machine for bigger flow and heating power).
Is that a tardis behinde you on the wall? Great video
Thinking of gettting a 2mm nozzle! :)
That is a Tardis! Thank you, best of luck with your nozzle.
ok so the nozzle is 2 m.. but why print at that? The layers barely touch. Why not print at 1 or 1.5 layer height. And you would still save a lot of time but connection between the layer would be much better. I plan to get a 1 mm one. and print at 0.5 mm.
Please notice that at 1:41 I mention that I've gotten best results at 1.8mm layer height for precisely those reasons. Thanks for watching and best of luck with your nozzle!
I know it's been 2 years, so it probably doesn't matter any more. But a good rule of thumb when printing with a different nozzle diameter is to limit you layer high to a max of 75% the nozzle's diameter with an ideal layer height being 50% the nozzle's diameter.
thats definitely true, but its much more fun to push it to the limit and print at a ridiculously high layer height
aiming for chunky lines and experiments rather than print quality
looking at this i can't help but to imagine the extrusions sounding like ketchup bottles
5:33 reminds me of when I take an extended bendy straw and rub it against my teeth fast
well I tried 1mm nozzle without success. Biggest nozzle I can use with reasonable result is 0.6 nozzle. 2mm is just crazy, cant see any use for that
No Taste watch the video then.
can I use this on my anet a8 or do I have to use a difrent printer this was probably a stupid question
No problem! I haven't personally tried it on that machine, but it seems to be a fairly standard hot end, so it should work.
XYZAidan hey can you do a vid on how to do vase mode in cura
Diamond DiggersHD Maybe. Some bigger UA-camrs like Maker's Muse have already done videos on vase mode, but i might still do a video on all the experimental Cura settings.
XYZAidan sweet you a cool dude
you know what would be cool. if you 3d printed an entire hex mail armor
Damn, he a giraffe
Thicc layer boi’s
His neck is huge vro
@Kazoo Kevin maybe it's just because he's too tall and skinny.
I like it
I did not notice until you pointed it out. Now I cannot unsee it
Is this an E3d V6?
hypnose NLP nope, stock Ultimaker hot end
thanks
those layers are too thick no one is gonna think they were 3d printed lol
Dis boi a giraffe
are they strong?
Alexey Voronin very strong! I'm actually working on another video in which I look at using extrusion width to influence the strength of printed parts.
Try this on thick layer. Just not go too thick www.thingiverse.com/thing:2080885
Are we talking about 1.75 or 3.0 filament?
Ben Mak 3mm
XYZAidan that's making sense
Nice channel! +1 sub
4:25 3D printer used double team
A 20cm neck
@Alejandro Pérez a disadvantage of being skinny when you're tall, I guess...
damn
*_Then your nozzle is bigger than your filament:_*
im actually printing with 3mm filament, sorry if that was unclear.
I have never heard of 3 mm filament. Woah, that should be for Really big models .😃
I use 1.75mm filament, its a bit funny to think that your nozzle is even bigger than that.
i killed everyone's hopes and dreams an liked the video when it was at 888 likes now it is at 889 likes
XYZin out... lol
Imagine 1cm...
Pixel Brush Or more... well, that’s the giant printers that print for example houses with concrete!