3D Print ridiculously fast with this terrible mod - 1mm nozzle on the Raise N2+
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- Опубліковано 4 лип 2017
- You can greatly decrease your print time by increasing you nozzle size and layer height... but is 1mm too far? Let's find out!
Models used:
Octopus - www.thingiverse.com/thing:8896
Low Poly Skull - www.thingiverse.com/thing:906562
Watering Can - www.thingiverse.com/thing:193...
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Angus, thank you so much for featuring my (now not so) Small Watering Can! I'm a long time subscriber, and now I really feel like I've just been knighted. You can't imagine my surprise when you pulled out this huge print. I might have actually blushed a little!
Haha! No worries man, it's a great design and printed beautifully. I'll add a 'make' to Thingiverse :)
Hey guys, I just recently bought a 3D printer and I am in the process of putting it together.... about 37 minutes through the 55 minute assembly video I found. It's the M505. I saw your video on 3D printer mods (for the spool and the cooling fan near the base) and I am wondering if you can point me in the direction of some other helpful videos? I really want to try and make some money with this thing so at least it doesn't turn into this nice shiny hunk of money in my house. Thank you and keep up the good work!
TheShmeeed iii
That would be awesome!
TheShmeeed I
CUT 3D PRINTING JOBS IN HALF WITH THIS ONE SIMPLE TRICK!
MANUFACTURES HATE HIM!
You have no idea how much I had to resist writing that XD
CLICK TO FIND OUT HOW
3D PRINTING (GONE WRONG) (COPS CALLED) (IN THE HOOD)
Considering how much more filament he uses, the filament-manufacturers will love him xD
I breckon I can build that
I don't even have regular printer why am I watching this
M H S same here buddy :P aspiring 3d printer owner :P
M H S I bought mine a 2 am while stressed out for finals. Ya... not my finest moment.
If you already know how 3d model I would ask you what are you waiting for? If you don't then I would recommend learning first then buying one.
What do you recommend to get into 3d modelling?
RastaEugen if you not gonna do it it professionally I would go with fussion360 (its free for students and hobbyist). If your a student and want to get into engineering then I would get Autodesk inventor (its free for students only)
M H S my regular printer doesn't even work
You can even water a mint bush with that watering can?
*****MINT BLOWN******
It's dead, Jim
Can it do cilantro?
@@godfreypoon5148 probably not
EVEN YOUR MINT BUSH?! Woahh...
Is it compatible with parsley?
Grow some thyme as you seem to not have enough of it!
Or what's left of it
Today I watched Angus drowned some plants.
They can handle it - they got drowned by rain a few hours later anyway :P
RiP angus’ night cactus, succulents, and even his lil’ mint bush
They will never be forgotten..
Those plants survived Australia,
They did *NOT* however, survive Angus
that's the perfect use for nice vases, a huge thick wall makes them much more useful and I'm sure helps seal the gaps on the crazier shapes
3d printing meathead. yep I always crank up my flow rate 150% when I do vase mode much much better prints it just sucks I can't do multi-process vase modes in simplify3d so I have to run it at flow 100 until the bottom layers are done and then turn it up to 150
@@nerys71 I just set my like width to 1mm. I have to slow things down and turn up the heat, but get really great results and vases that are actually useful.
@@KrisRyanStallard yep doing that in vase mode works very well!!
Wow, it can even water your mintbush? I mean, with a normal watering can, that would be impossible!
Not sure if you noticed it was dead or not
Oh so it can revive dead plants? That's super xD
3D Printing is magical :D
I was going to post this exact thing, I scrolled down just to see if anyone already did it... >__> Anton.
Sounds like you need to reprint your mintbush.
"It can even water my mint bush!!!" **Waters Pot full of dirt**
Is mint blowing
mint = blown
Adding thermal paste to your nozzles threads helps a lot with transferring heat. I use it on the nozzle, the heater cartridge and the thermistor.
What a coincidence, I've been experimenting a fair bit with large nozzles as well! I actually really dig the look of the high layers, but you definitely have to design within the tighter constraints of what the larger nozzle can do. Also loving that I can use it with really crappy filament because a 1mm nozzle is nearly impossible to clog :D
Haha dude, keen to see what you come up with! I love the stepped look too, really works well for some models. The clogging is a good point... wonder if you could like, dust in something on the filament so it combines. I did spray paint filament once and that worked.
Make Anything // 3D Printing Channel and Maker's Muse together the two best 3d printing channels should do a collab
Make Anything why don't you have mORE LIKESSSSSSS
Your problems may actually be from under extrusion because when you drill a hole with a 1mm drill bit the hole is actually larger than 1mm, what you need to do is drill it under sized and use a 1mm reamer.
That shouldnt be the case with at least half resonable drills as they are purposely made a little undersized to compensate a tip being slightly off center and therefor drilling bigger than needed
Rcmodellbau_DE
I don't know about that, every drill bit I've ever owned always bores a hole that's larger what the measurement says.
Especially hole saw drill bits, a 114mm hole saw gets you a 120mm hole for example. ( useful for pc modification) With hole saws it's because the measurement is the internal diameter not outer diameter. no idea why regular drill bits do it though, probably crappy drill.
As a hobby machinist I can confirm that drills always drill oversize. It's a percentage though, so it probably like 1.02-1.04 mm.
Either way, I think if Angus took the time to tweak it, he could get it to print pretty good.
Plus being drilled by hand drill I'd say between 1.2-1.3mm
Lol, I did a 3-day print once. Multi-piece, 0.05mm layer height, and 0.2mm nozzle.
Luckily, nothing clogged.
At those super fine numbers, I switch over to resin printing.
I'm doing it now, but its because im new and domt know what I'm doimg
I bet acrylic filament would make a purely translucent print at that height
@@thegamerstableboardgamesto386 Resin is shit.
Angus wow thanks mate. My stock Anet A8 I've got dialled in to print beautifully with a .4mm extruder but now I want to print a full size proton pack. So your video gave me the idea to do it with 1mm nozzles. So I ordered the nozzles and some black PLA and I've started printing. I didnt have the same issues you had with the infill, I just printed a valve part with 20% infill and it printed fine. I started with 0.5mm layer height and the part still printed really well, I'm going to try the 0.4mm layer height (EDIT: WOW 0.4mm height is amazing). It was actually thrilling to watch the part print so quickly, and the resolution really isnt that bad at all. Very impressed, thanks for your help. For anyone else looking to print 1mm with the Anet A8 here are the values I used:
0.9mm nozzle diameter (I always find taking 0.1 off the actual nozzle diameter helps in the horizontal plane) 220 degrees print temp, 20% infill (use line infill), print speed 50, travel speed 50, 0.9mm wall width, 1.2mm top/bottom thickness, 0.4mm layer height.
It's funny how we are all aware that with printers, there will be failures and obviously waste. HOWEVER, throw in a purge block for multicolor change and waste becomes a blasphemy lol
SO TRUE. I'm yet to cross over to the 'dark side' of 3D Printing with such things however :P That'd be a great parody video *five things to do with your purge block*
yep, to be honest i have accumulated quite a few with the prusa and the pallette so i'm testing theories. they just look so bloody awesome i find it hard to throw them away lol
3D Maker Noob Sell them on Etsy as art ;)
one is intentional and the other isn't. we aren't trying to fail prints and waste filament. Waste blocks are intentional and something we should be addressing and trying to improve.
Why don't they instead use the filament generated for the purge block solely for the infill?
Hey Angus, I've been using 0.8 and 1.0mm nozzles, at finer layer heights such as 0.24 and 0.32. You can speed the printer up a bit due to your flow being reduced from the lower layer heights.
Provides excellent quality of prints, at a respectably reduced print time.
Keep up the awesome work my dude
"Mint bush" Now that sounds suggestive doesnt it...
Great content as always!
Keep on experimenting like crazy. I think these kind of vids are your best.
I can see a use for large nozzles like that, but I stand by patience is a virtue, time management is gold, and slow and steady wins the race.
If you used a 1mm drill bit, I’m pretty sure the resulting hole would be quite a large percentage greater than 1mm. That might account for a portion of the slicer having issues calculating the print.
I use a 1mm nozzle for large functional prints. After getting those infill errors, I found that reducing acceleration and travel speed helped a lot.
Love your videos. Fun too watch and the best honest advice I have found to date.
Thanks! Really appreciate the kind words :)
I feel you can water a few things than just those plants. Maybe have a longer version where you go through everything you can water! Like your hair, your cup, your sofa, your freezer, your previous prints, your PC (not recommended), your curtains, your sink, your mirror, your family, your dog, your tv, your mousemat, your phone (also heavily not recommended), your car, your lawn, some dead bug, your chairs, your table, your plates, your clothes, your hairbrush and so on.
Zondac ...your other watering cans...
water your water
I want you to know you're a national treasure with that sense of humor.
Very good video! I had seen the one by Prusa about bigger nozzle sizes, and seeing that being tested was quite informative! Now I just wish for a test with 0.7mm, but I can't do that with a drill.
Also, you are a really good speaker. Super clear articulation, easy to follow, and good camera presence.
My default nozzle diameter is 0.8 mm, because I'm this impatient, but I also want stuff I design to work with the typical 0.4 mm. It's not ideal for printing phone cases, but for coarse home-improvement style projects, it's great because they're really strong.
I've actually been using a 1mm nozzle for some time now on a good old e3d v6. with a bit of tuning, the print quality can actually come out truly amazing.
You should do an experiment seeing which slicer handles large nozzles best
I use simplify 3D, and it handles the 1mm nozzle completely OK. The issue is not the bad slicer, but probably the settings. I printed even big solid objects (consistimg mostly of vertical and horizontal walls, so the layer thickness did not matter for appearance) with layer height of 0,5mm and 30% infill from PET-G and it worked OK.
I really appreciate how much experiment for us all. Keep up the great videos.
I never thought I’d find someone this enthusiastic about melted plastic
The large nozzle size on the octopus has a very appealing look.
OMG!!! I am going to have to experiment like you just did. Thank you Angus!!!
Angus! By what I have seen in experimentation, IceSL does a fantastic job of handling slicing with 1mm nozzles. I would love to see you take a try at this again with that slicer.
We use these types of 1mm and 1.8mm nozzles at work. The infill issue can be solved by switching to gyroid, and you do need to re-tune pretty much all of the slicer settings.
Hey mate , which ones would You recommend ?
@@twombols3555 We use Bondtech CHT nozzles. They’re pricey, but they work beautifully. Plop one of their CHT volcano nozzles into a copper block with a 65W cartridge heater, and you can absolutely crank the speeds.
If you just want to use a standard v6 nozzle, they have those too, and they work beautifully. I have a 0.6mm one on my personal printer at home, and it’s better than a standard volcano.
Also, you actually can get fine details with 1mm nozzles. I know it sounds stupid, but I was able to tune in our 1mm nozzle to print at a 0.1mm layer height, although the smallest I’d recommend is 0.2.
Very cool. More experiments like this please!
Awesome video Angus.
love the raise N2, love seeing experiments on it! btw did i overlooked the review of the n2 plus? Or will be coming later on?
I just started lerning to design 3d models. Now i see these beautiful detailed shapes and all i can say is:
WHAAAA... LIKE.... HOW THE FRICK DID YOU DO THAT?!?!
i got good result with 1mm nozzle on my Dyze Extruder, but need to cut the speed half, between 20 and max 30 mms, and raise 25% more the temperature extrution, and only try with PLA
and forgot to say...more coolling with extern fan blow direct on the print
I like imperfections, it makes a normal item more interesting... I’ve been watching your videos all day and I learned a lot! I thought it’ll take me some time to decide if I will buy one of these printers or not but looks like I’ll be ready by tonight!!! Haha TY!
May have been mentioned already, but the issue is heat transfer to filament, the plastic doesn't have enough time to heat up and so it's extruding a partially melted filament. A longer nozzle will help (like the E3D volcano), slower speeds, and higher temperatures (up to 50C higher temp than normal). It's failing at the infill because your slicer probably has a higher infill speed.
Awesome idea mate, gonna copy that train of tought and use a 0.6mm nozzle and print at 1.2mm width and 0.4 layer height for pots and vase mode stuff. Great research!!!!
I was printing the base for the Starman and Tesla model from Thingverse. I forgot the decimal point in Cura for the "layer Height" and printed at 1 mm instead of 0.1 mm. It had a 1.8 mm "Shell Thickness". I left it print after I realized the mistake. Only took a half hour or so instead of all day. Came out looking like a woven basket but still functional as a display stand. I used Maker Geeks High Temp Raptor PLA filament which needs 245 C on the extruder. Using a little Mono Price Mini Delta, I had to bump the extruder up 8 to 10 degrees to keep it at 245.
There is a lot of promise in this for certain utilitarian designs that do not have to look like injection molded parts.
Thanks for the great idea. I think I might try a .4mm nozzle on my ender 3. Just been printing for a few weeks now but learning new stuff every day. Subscribed to your channel. Who knows I might make a video of some of my prints now!
wait, your telling me that a watering can can water you plants? wow
love your vids keep it up!
When I broke my first nozzle, before I got new nozzles,I used the neck of the broken tip as a 2mm nozzle. It only worked in vase mode and I had to run it extra slow to allow the plastic to melt in time.
LOL!!!! I often thought of trying that. So glad you did it!
We made our own 3d printers back when ender 3 wasn't a thing... At one point we converted the electronics from an industrial cnc mill to a printer with a 0.5x1m volume with a 1mm nozzle works like a charm
I'd like to see you make a wearable helmet with this technique. Obviously can't do vase mode but as close to would be interesting with the single but strong thin wall. So the challenge is how quick can you print a wearable thin walled helmet/vase that is strong but felxible. (there must be some detail in the helmet design)
Excellent work, more like this please :)
i quite often do silly things with my printer just trying to push the boundaries and it's amazing how much you learn in the process!
there's a hot air gun and a high speed scroll fan sitting by my printer with sufficient cable to move around for just these kinds of things and yeah, slicers have a habit of getting it wrong in these fringe cases but with a little bit of ingenuity you can pull of some crazy stuff.
0.8mm is biggest nozzle i have tried, with varying levels of success but even printing 50mm/s X 250% speed if you follow the nozzle with a blast of cool air those vase mode prints hold up quite well :D
Try this in vase-mode: have the print performed in a flask that can be filled with sand or other dry non-reactive granular stabilizing media.
As the walls of the vase are built up, add media to the inside and outside of the vase in a balanced manner.
This will tend to lock the walls in position and prevent any sort of flexing as the print gets taller.
Maybe a stabilizing media dispenser in the print-head?
Slicer failure? Thanks for figuring that out! I have been trying a 0.8 nozzle previously with similar infill problems.
Hey Angus, try a volcano hotend with a 1mm nozzle, they work great for printing just about anything fast. I think the reason a volcano nozzle works so well is because the longer dimension of the hotend is vertical and has a melt zone at least double the amount of most normal hot ends. Your impatience would be rewarded:)
That watering can is crazy cool.
Personally, I like the large layer lines for vase mode :) I think it adds character to artistic prints. I have a volcano hotend on my second printer, and personally, I only use it for vase mode :)
4:50 "I can use it to water my night catus..." Proceeds to flood it. Press F to pay respect for the cactus.
hey! you're videos are amazing, super informative and fun. In a few videos you highlight 'vase mode' that prints continuously and without any interior fill. Would it be possible to print a normal structure with a large volume but instead of spending time and plastic printing all the crosshatching in the middle, print on top of a simple precut block of substrate like honeycomb plastic? I've heard you say the base of a model or its interior encompasses most of the printing time and thread spend. It seems like cutting the biggest simple volume that can fit in the interior and then printing on to that would save a lot of time and money.
Cura now has lightning supports, which allow to save a lot with larger nozzles. Also, I switched on my jg a3s, and with my 0.4mm profile it prints just fine after nozzle adjustment. I guess I was printing too slow in the first place.
The more I print, the less patient I am waiting for it to finish.
"i can use it to water my succulents, i can even use it to water my mint bush"
holy fucking shit the mint bush
hahaha
I keep a .8mm nozzle on one side of N2+ and a .4 on the other. I really like the flexibility of being able to switch between them. I found that my biggest issue was cooling time with the bigger nozzle, and I have to slow down the speed to compensate. It's still really nice for rapid prototyping.
I do a lot of large format printing on 1.0 and 1.2 nozzles, specifically with E3D's Volcano hotends and 40w heaters.
Your infill to perimeter pullaway problem, as well as your huge Repconn rocket pot perimeter detail issue is all due to the maximum material flowrate your hotend can handle. Simply put, your extruder couldn't keep up with the demand put on it, so your underextruded layer was getting dragged and stretched while still above molten temperature. Most hotends are only capable of 8-15mm3/sec material flowrates. This is why hotends like the Volcano have enormous melt zones and advertise flowrates in the 40mm3/sec range. A big heater alone isn't quite enough to manage high flowrates - you need a big melt zone as well, giving the heater more opportunity to heat the filament.
Feed pressure becomes the huge tuning sticking point with the Volcano, though, as it absolutely hates retractions because of the enormous melt zone.
Still, you had some pretty impressive prints there. Hopefully this sheds some light on why some of your prints didn't quite work. Slowing down the print would have likely fixed your issues.
That fractal skull rocks!
About 2 years ago I literally just bought one of of ebay for really cheap and it worked perfectly fine with cura's standard profile, I use it for like 1/3 of my prints.
Hi Angus thanks for all your great video. As for this 1mm nozzle have you tried it up using simplify 3d slicer? I am building big lego minifig and having problem on extrusion with. Should i use the auto mode or manual,and if its manual what will be the number. Maybe some explanation on the calculation. Also on the retraction as well what should i do? Last but not least i trying to be your petron but my request was deny any thips on this?
I printed everything with a 1mm nozzle x 0.5mm layers for a couple years. You have to design your part much more carefully, and line up perimeters against each other, and only use infill very carefully. In exchange, you can get much stronger, faster parts that look fantastic. If you're not careful, the minor errant blobs that your nozzle runs over without issue at 0.4mm scale, will be a much larger and more dangerous obstacle at 1mm scale.
Also spiral vase is for jabronis.
I like the rough finish on that octopus :)
I admittedly love the look of that .8mm octopus
I’ve bought some un-drilled E3D nozzles last year, had a plan to do small line cut instead of circular to get that "classic pen" look to some of my prints - underestimated fine cutting tools needed to do this trick, messed up 2x nozzles…
Also about the regular round holes - I found that drilling from the inside and then sanding the very tip gave me the best results. You also could drill as normal from the outside and then drill from the inside with slightly bigger drill bit just to deburr it a bit.
Fascinating stuff, thanks.
Love your videos, i have a question. I have an Ender 3 and want to
upgrade. Between Ortur 4 and AnyCubicKossel7 which one would you
consider as a better upgrade?
Part of the problem may be also due to the fact that a drill doesn't really a smooth or tapered inner surface, but you can buy small sized reamers that you can use to enlarge the nozzle diameter!
Nice job Angus! Though it appeals more to the Breakers Muse😄👍🏼👏🏼 I will do this on an old nozzle!
I've done the same thing with motorcycle carb jets. It works, just gotta make sure you drill straight down.
Great vid dyzedesign are my goto source for speed printing loads of solid research on the blog and amazing extruders.
Whao! Even the mint bush!
since that 3D printer has 2 extruders you could have a large nozzle for quick/vase mode printing on one extruder (maybe not quite as big as 1.0mm, maybe 0.8mm would be a better option) and have a standard 0.4 mm on the other, not having to manually switch between the sizes . . .
Tried out a 1.2mm with a volcano for a short time. I mainly printed stuff like vases and I stretched a rocket to be around 840mm tall. I really enjoyed the short print times. I am now trying out a 0.6mm nozzle.
I use a 1.2mm nozzle on my Flsun Delta occasionally, and find that I have to increase the extrusion width for infill and exterior perimeters so that layers don't delaminate during printing.
The 30 dislikes must be the crappy companies, trying to get over on unsuspecting people. Thank you for making this video I've been wondering whether or not to buy one if I ever do I will have to be diligent in doing my research. Great video, love it thank you.
This is great, but probably a bit over-sized for a lot of people. I've found a 0.8 very useful, and it still has pretty decent quality. You can buy them on amazon along with the 1mm nozzles now.
Omg google figured me out lol I got a 3D printer ad at the beginning!
2:4 I noticed that the 1st yellow filament did not fail but the Grey filament did.
Could it have been the different characteristics of the different colors of filament ??
Hey that's a pretty good point... I should try the larger prints with the yellow, as that seemed to work quite well. Different brands so quite possibly different additives.
Thanks for the video, I really like the thick printed look of the 1mm nozzle, I would actually use a 1mm and slow down the print speed to show off the layers and use the thick layers as part of the look, all I need to do now is to get a 3D printer!
that failed skull will make a good Halloween candy bucket
Very nice video thanx man
hey angus,
when do you intent to do a review on the raise N2 ?
I have been wating for it since I heard you are intent to get one.
When printing at layer Heights so high your infill is essentially all bridges because it prints one way with one layer than the other way on the next layer, if you do it again try using another infill type
I have decent success with 0.8mm layers on a 1.2 nozzle by increasing the "extra restart distance" in S3D. You also have to go really slow so that the printer doesn't pull on the freshly laid filament before it has time to cool, otherwise you will get that effect in your first print.
You know, someone should make a cheap recycler for the wasted filament! Chop it up into pieces then melt it down and push it out an extrusion head into usable string.
Just watched a video on here of a guy who built a melter / extruder nozzle who can print directly from shredded waste prints. Most of his design was 3d printed himself. Basically just a heated hopper with a little extruder above the nozzle...could be the future...why waste time with filament. Go directly from plastic scrap to new prints.
Angus , very instructive and entertaining videos - where might the stl file of the rocket be available ? If someone could advise thanks in advance
That's one healthy-looking mint bush.
is the raise n2+ any good? need a good big dual extruder printer for rapid prototyping at work
I recently have gotten me a 0.8mm e3D nozzle for my wanhao I3 with titan aero. Minus having troubles filling in large Hshells leaving very noticeable gaps it's been a blast pumping out "big" things in no time with 0.6mm layers
One thing I might try to fix the infill is the "print every infill angle on each layer" setting in simplify 3d. The idea being that every infill layer will have something underneath it to stick to.
what model printer is used in this vid? and which models do you recommend as a first 3d printer?
The likelihood that it is mostly a software issue and not as much a mechanical issue is good though. It means someone capable can make a plugin for the software and this can be broadly viable on many printers without much modification.
Thanks Angus,
btw not remember where i read this > use half size layer height of the nozzle size example 1mm nozzle 0.5mm layer height
Did you try lowering your motor jerk settings? That might help with the change in direction issues
Nice video! What's the weight of this skull and the rocket?