Troy-Bilt MTD 27 ton splitter valve repair
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- Опубліковано 21 сер 2024
- In this video I troubleshoot and repair a Troy-Bilt / MTD 27 ton splitter. I was having some problems with the valve controlling the ram motion. The splitter has had no real issues up until this point, with about 120 hours of use. I noticed some struggling of the engine on the return stroke unless I held the valve handle up, and this quickly was getting worse. I beleive this splitter has the Energy 326890 valve. In hindsight, I probably didn't need to drain the fluid.
Excellent! No profanity, no beer, and no crap. Just good, instructive work. Thank you. Like. Sub.
Dan: Thanks so much for taking the time to share this video! I have a late 80's vintage Duerr 20 ton splitter. Much the same as yours..... I took that detent cover off and should have just sprayed it with carb cleaner etc... but took it all apart because, well I could! After seeing your video, I was able to get it back together... I used a small radiator screw clamp, main part that held the ball bearings and spring in a vice, and pushed it all together with a nut driver on the center ball bearing pushing the outer sleave on as I went .... snap! and it was done... My large outer spring was broke and I used and old valve spring from some car I took apart... cut it down a little.. (But not enough) reinstalled everything and now I have extend and return but no lock on the return. I suspected the spring is too long.... (I do have a whole new valve on the way.... but Just wanted to see if I could fix this) I cut a little more off the valve spring reinstalled it all again.... and it all works great! May sent back the new valve... but at least I am back in business! Thanks man, ya really helped me. Happy Holidays to you and yours! Again, thx really helped. Only good video I saw about this detent!
Thank you for sharing and taking your time to show us DIY how to fix this issue.
Your welcome, glad you found it useful.
You did a fantastic job and ( thank you for NOT playing any annoying music like some of the other videos had in the background)
I appreciate that when you run into something you don't quite understand, or you get something out of order, you take the time to find the correct information, make the corrections and (admit)/Explain the proper process.
Energy used to sell the individual parts to repair. Now you an get a $30 o-ring kit(5 o-rings) or a complete $60 Detent replacement assembly.
* I haven't tested yet, but plan to Rotate the Detent Grooved Cup to see if it will restore small Ball hold on return. the Balls are 90* so a 45* rotation on the tightened assembly should land on undamaged edging.
Thank you for taking the time to post this video. It was very helpful. I had the same symptoms and assignable cause -> when I removed the end-cover I discovered that the threaded barrel had loosened to the point where it bottomed against the inside of the end-cover and caused the spool to be out of position. However, the threaded barrel on my unit did not have the screwdriver slots. Maybe mine is an older design. After applying thread locker, I tightened the threaded barrel by placing the long end of an allen wrench through the cross-holes meant for the detent balls. Once it was tight, I re-assembled the spring, spring ball, and detent balls. That step was a bit tricky -> I had another person press down on the spring and the spring ball with a small 1/4" socket and extension to get them below the centerline of the detent ball holes while I assembled the detent balls and detent collar.
thanks for the video. my valve is leaking and i was afraid to take the whole thing apart and lose parts. definitely a huge help being able to see all those little parts ahead of time so i dont miss anything.
thanks, mine was just dirty and rusty. cleaned it up and its good as new.
the hard part was figuring out how to get the balls back in.
I don’t know what you do for work but you did an excellent job with this video. Thank you it was just right.
Thank you. This video was a huge help to me finding the (same) problem with my machine.
You're an angel! Thanks so much for doing this video. You did a really nice job explaining things and admitting your (temporary) errors.
Just ran into this problem and thanks to you all i had to do was use my screwdriver and tighten it up. When I can get it back home, I'll clean it and add some thread locker. Thank you for posting what you had done!!!!!
Great video and good calm speaking voice. Thanks for sharing.
Appreciate the time and effort and the real world reassembly error not being omitted. Do more videos!
Very useful video, I haven't had this problem yet, but if I do I'll surely remember this. Thank you for sharing.
Had the same problem, and it was all of a sudden , now I'm going back out to take the cover off, the whole thing turned, which I thought was an adjustment, but now I see it was not tite! Thanks so much
Dan, great video. I have the same log splitter and the control valve locked up on me today....could not move the lever forward or back. I pulled apart the detent (sp?) part like you showed and sure enough that piece had backed off the threaded portion. I cleaned everything, tightened it down and re-assembled it. Worked like brand new. Thanks again for making this video,
Your welcome! I've learned so much from the You Tube community, I'm glad I can finally give a little back. Pay it forward is my moto.
Thank you . you saved my bacon. Bought an old machine and it was so gunked up in there nothing would move. And now my wife thinks im a mechanical genius.
Thank you for this video!
You're welcome.
I'm going to THANKS this is the video I've been looking for a while very good Thanks
Nice job with the video,just what I was looking for
Great Video Man! Thank you for posting this video. It helped me get my valve back together and working. Man I have worked and worked on this log splitter for 4 hours trying to get this part of the valve back together. It is so simple if you know what you're doing, as you figured it out. Thank you again!
Thanks mine was doing same thing ,10 years old lots of use ,tightened up got 4 to 5 turns before it got tight ,back in action .Ordered Energy Manufacturing Valve rebuild rubber seal kit comes with instructions,on Amazon. Replaced hydro fluid and filter.
cool that is what mine is doing .. and was my best guess to start .. glad I got to see you put it to gehter 2 times .. seems that is always my lot in Life as well " ) going to start it in the morning .. thanks for the vid " )
Fantastic video! Same thing happened to me today. I am going to my shop to look at the spool back end and see if it is loose. Thanks much!
thanks for this video, fixed my problem to a tee and I'm not much of mechanic but I can follow well given instructions.
I'm going to tighten my doohickey so my thingamajig will make my Whatchamacallit work better we must have gone to the same high school cuz I have the same vocabulary with log splitters and machinery LOL thank you so much for your video I think you might have saved me a bunch of money
Thanks 💥🛠 I appreciate your attention to detail !!! 🤗
This was a great help, well done and thankyou!
You're welcome, glad you found it helpful.
Ok..same problem..this better work, 17 year old splitter, 2002? I think.. control lever just gave me first ever problem, this spring 2019. Good video..thanks for editing out boring parts..
I believe they used a few different valves over the years, not sure when the change happened. Good luck, hope the video helps.
Thanks I had the same problem and followed your steps and works great now!
70 to 90 inch-pounds = approx 7 foot-pounds
Great video!
Great video!
Outstanding work Dan - This video will help so many in the DIY. category and maybe save a lot of money on top. New Sub for you.
Thanks for the kind words, glad it helped you out. I have learned so much from the UA-cam community, it feels good to give something back.
Great job for your 1st !
Nice job on your first video... all good info, here.
exact same frame/set up as my yard machines 21 ton splitter. (just different stickers?)i just put a 10hp motor with electric start on it and still have pressure issues,also my return doesnt kick out like yours did in the begining ,time to take it apart
Looks like the problem I'm having. Thanks!
The best way to drain the cylinder is to run it all the way out, take the hose off the return side of the VALVE and stick it into the fill port of the tank and take a come-along or whatever you have and push the wedge back in. Then all you'll have will be in the lines which you can loosen and drain. AND if the end is loose it throws the spool out of line. This is what's wrong with this valve.
Long shot since this is an older video. But by chance have you ever had the nipple of the pump intake come out when you drained yours? Mine is a 33 ton and it did this. Not sure if it has a o-ring in there or not. It pulled out instead of the hose from the nippple. Kinda worried I’ll have to get a new pump 😑
@@youknow9328 I think there was an O-ring there but I can't remember. IO took the screen out of the intake in the tank and tried to clean all the gomm of teflon tape off the fittings that was strung out all over and put sealing paste back. I also replumbed the filter to be right side UP instead of backwards and that fixed the air removal problem and put a regular Baldwin vent filter in the fill instead of that plug with a hole. Also a marine jack and a kill switch at the control handle. And I never run it wide open. Seems like that oil might be a dab heavy but the lower r.p.m. might've helped as far as heat goes. Hope this helps but if you need to talk more, have at it..
@@youknow9328 That is exactly what happened to mine.
1" steel nipple literally fell out of the pump casting when I pulled the hose. Took the pump to the hydraulic shop and they offered no fix other than buy a new pump. I used a suitable size socket with a tapered tip/end and carefully pressed it into the steel nipple using my vice to enlarge the nipple and make it a press fit in the pump housing.
Don't over do it, as it didn't take much!
It works perfectly now and I'm wondering if that is why the guy sold it to me, maybe it was sucking air?
In any case, there was no O-Ring in mine.
great video. I have cub cadet with same problem but it's identical to this brand in every way AFAIK. This will save me a ton of mistakes
I think they we made by MTD and sold under a handful of names. Good luck on the repair!
Thanx. appreciated your contribution to my limited knowledge.
I'm buying that log splitter tomorrow. Low hours. Gives me something else to check.
If this is an Energy Mfg. valve you have to order a new detent valve. If it's a Prince, you can rebuild it with new 'o' rings. The spool valve being out of position will do this being the passages are not fully opened.
Thanks for posting I cannot be taking my splitter back and forth for a small service
Also if you could post what fluid you use that be awesome the shell m2 is expensive now use to be under 100
I've only changed my fluid once, I did a full drain and filter replacement. I used automatic transmission fluid that meets the dexron standard. So far it seems happy with it. My only complaint is i don't like the smell of it.
I’ve got the same splitter
Good work
NicePatients
thanks man i think this may be whats up with my splitter....
Good job Don
Great video very helpful 👍
big ATTA BOY. thanks
And it worked with 3 bearings..i dont think i lost one..always had 3..large bearing, took some force to get in
Good job
What parts did you actually replace? Saw another video here on you tube where the guy only replaced the bearings. How do we identify the valve on the machine... BTW.... Have the same one as you. Where do we get parts? Thanks again for the great video!!!
I actually didnt end up replacing anything, just tightening the lose parts. Mine is an Energy valve, basically identified it by process of elimination from internet searches. I think you can order parts from Energy's website.
Grease works good 👍
the allen wrench was on the green lid
Good video
great video and thank you for taking the time to share. my auto up feature doesnt all hold and pops out. goes up and down no problem with holding lever but half the time u push up it doesnt hold. do you guys feel like i can simply take off that cover and tighten down to fix? same exact splitter. thanks
wow good job, thanks for the vid i learned somethings.
wow good job thatnks for the vid
I'm having somewhat the same problem I took mine apart and lost my bearings can you buy them ? and were ?
Thanks for watching. Try: www.energymfg.com/online-catalog/log-splitter-valve-accessories.html
Great Video. The detent wasn't holding and as I took it apart I noticed there was hydrolic fluid in the detent. There is a leak in the O-ring/seal, but as I took the detent collar and cap off, I lost 2 of the small balls. I was hoping to maybe just replace the seals ($10) and save $50, but it looks like I will need to buy a new detent mechanism as well. Any ideas for replacing the 2 small balls and where I can get them?
Thanks
I found the spec for these balls - they are .218 inch diameter.
Hi Lance. If you have the same valve as I do, try Energy's website: www.energymfg.com/online-catalog/log-splitter-valve-accessories.html. They have parts diagrams and the ability to order individual parts. Best of luck on the rebuild.
My handle is completely stuck. Before my husband died he kept saying it was an easy fix. well, he passed in Nov and I need it fixed. :(
Oh that's terrible, so sorry for your loss 😢 I've never had mine get stuck. Is it in the center position or in the up or down position? If it's in the center or up you could loosen or remove those 2 bolts that hold the detent cover in position. With those loose, carefully try to move the handle, if it moves the loosened detent cover then you know it's the dentent that is the issue. If it's still jammed, it's in the valve body itself. This is a parts diagram for the valve that is on my splitter www.energymfg.com/online-catalog/log-splitter-valve-accessories.html Worst case, you could always replace the entire valve.
I see when you (having the unit in the vertile position) when you push the lever down to have the ram lower YOU DO NOT have to hold the lever and it will pop back to neutral at the end of the stroke? And the up stroke does this too? Yes/no? Thanks
On my machine you need hold the lever continuously during the down (splitting) stroke. During the up (return) stroke the lever will "stick" in that position until the cylinder returns to the fully retracted position. I suspect most splitters in this class operate this way.
Maybe I read your question wrong. In either position up or down, if you hold the lever after the stroke has completed, the engine will bog down as the fluid will continue to try and move the cylinder.
@@danfield8102 dan, thanks for both replies.
Has any body ever bleed the lines for air for that type of wood splitter?
Thanks my splitter won’t lock in the return position I have to hold it
I have the same unit and need to replace the valve spool, one of the bearings shattered and the detent cylinder is cracked. Do you know where I can get a rebuild kit? I"m only seeing whole valves for close to $200 available. Anyone sell discrete parts for this unit?
Yes. The manufacturer. www.energymfg.com/online-catalog/log-splitter-valve-accessories.html
My gasket is leaking at the control valve but i can't find a replacement one. What is the part number for the rebuilt kit?
Just bought one of these, where is the engine, oil drain plug? Thx
Wile looking at the engine with the spark plug toward you and the muffler to your left, the drain plug is below the muffler all the way on the bottom right side. If memory serves me, it's a 13mm. Pause the video at 0:03 and you can see it below the muffler.
@@danfield81020:13
Mine is leaking right there at the D10 cap. I tightened it down but it still leaks. Any ideas? Is there a gasket?
Thanks.
Can you tell me were you got the rebuild kit
Where did you order the gaskets for the ends of the valve assembly? Mine leaks fluid.
Thanks!
Thankfully I didnt end up having to replace any parts. If your valve is the Energy model, check out their website www.energymfg.com. I have also had good luck with ebay for parts like this.
There is a recall for these valves for specific build dates. www.troybilt.com/wcsstore/ManagedContent/TroyBiltUS/en_US/media/ConsumerInspectionProcedures_Final.pdf
Thanks for the post. I verified my model and date code are within the range specified, however I don't see the "Energy" label on the valve. Weird because I'm sure it's an Energy; they must have changed the design. Maybe its worth a call anyway.
I just got this splitter used and it did not have the hydraulic filter canister on the outside of the tank like yours. Did you add it? Can you give me any advise. Can you send me a link for the valve info you looked at, I may be having a similar problem too. Thank a million. Would you share a telephone number if I have a question.
The filter came with mine from the factory, that's strange yours doesn't have one. I was always under the impression that filtering out debris in a hydraulic system was critical (so the debris doesn't wear down components) so I would be surprised if it didnt have one. I would recommend looking up an owners manual for your specific unit. Sharing a contact number publicly is probably a bad idea, but feel free to ask questions here.
@@danfield8102 thanks for your reply. The only filter on my machine is a “washable in a product like we-40 which is inside the tank where the hose from the tank to the pump connects (at the tank side). I believe on yours it is an external canister filter?
@@danfield8102 my splitter is from 2008, maybe this is the difference??/
LISTEN TO THIS MAN AND PAY ATTENTION..I have a troy built 27 ton splitter 9/2002, its almost 17 yrs old, same one everyone has, lowes, depot, sears, cub cadet..looks just like this video.i tried this procedure..my detent assy. Was seized up. Took out two screws, removed assy.found the inside covered in a wierd yucky dirty rusty mess. I found 3 small bearings, one rusty large one. Then went to bench to clean..could not get first sleeve out of housing..soaked in pb blaster..banged, and heated, broke screwdriver tips prying..it was rusted in. Finally just started pounded in between housing and sleeve, and pulled out with needle nose.. i wire wheeled all the parts..and filed damage flat. Greased everything with anti sieze grease, silver stuff, reassembled..ok now. This assyNEEDS 2 TO 3 YEAR MAINTENANCE! IT COSTS 64 DOLLARS AND ONLY ONE SUPPLIER..THE ENTIRE VALVE US 260 BUCKS 3 22 18
Today I bought a rebuild kit off eBay for $18. Three of the small balls went flying away as I pulled off the top sleeve. At the Energy website (www.energymfg.com/online-catalog/log-splitter-valve-accessories.html), they have the complete unit for $104. Cheapest place I found. Less than half as much as most are asking on eBay, Amazon, etc. Just in case you find you do need to rebuild any time soon.
Does you have to bleed the hydraulic system after replacing the directional valve and pump on a troy bilt log splitter
Where did you bleed the air from the hydraulic system?
I really didn't. The pump draws from the bottom of the reservoir, and the return line dumps toward the top, so just running it will purge the air eventually. As I recall I just did a couple full cycles of the ram unloaded. Never had any issues.
that was my first thought air but pretty sure it is the valve .. to finish at my uncles if you crack the other line near the end can get it to retract but loose fluid .. got his job done .. now got to fix mine LOL
Dan, or Others - has anyone experienced hydraulic fluid flowing out of the vented dipstick. My TB 33 has been running exceptionally, I've changed the filter every two year, flushed and refilled the hydraulic reservoir two years ago - never an issue. All of sudden fluid is pouring out of the dipstick vent with somewhat great flow. Not foaming (non-foam oil, proper filter). Any ideas anybody? thanks in advance
Is it leaking while running or in storage? Only thing I can think is you've got a small leak in the hose, valve or cylinder and air is getting in somewhere and gravity is pulling the fluid into the tank. As I found it does not have enough capacity to hold all the fluid contained in the cylinder, hoses, etc.
Mine also does that when the detent sticks. Wonder if you ever determined the cause.
Great video! I didn't have the problem that Dan identified, but determined that the O-rings were problematic. Check out this video to get the complementary repair while you're digging around in the detent! Cheers. ua-cam.com/video/PpH292v8czM/v-deo.html
don't like political commercials, spreading fear among people. Not good.great video except that. Thanks
Unfortunately I cannot control what adds UA-cam chooses to place in my videos. Glad you found it helpful.
Way to long and the part I needed to watch you didn’t show it ! Boned video
Good job