I had opportunity to document this magnificent effort from our brave team for your viewing pleasure! I didn't have super much time to polish the piece on editing table but it has it's moments thats sure :D Hope that you like it!
I didn't realize how much I was missing these workshop videos until I watched this one. I know it's a ton of work, but I know there are some of out here that really enjoy it!
I crack up and laugh every time that he uses the phrase "That's not optimal" - it is always preceded by the absolute worst outcome that could possibly happen, however he delivers it in such a dry mater of fact way that it always catches me off guard. Loved the video - great content.
If you ever have to do this again it might be worth taking out every other bolt so that you're keeping some pressure evenly clamped around the ring. When you remove them all in a line you could be adding a pinch stress to some of the other fasteners.
My late father was an orchardist growing apples, pears, apricots, peaches & cherries in Canada's Okanagan Valley in the late 1940s ~ 1970s. He had a large pipe wrench the same size as the one you were using at 09:30, but its handle was bent ~30 degrees from routine use of a pipe extension about 3 m long just as you did. Buried 3" [76 mm] steel irrigation water pipe vertical risers can be difficult to disassemble when rusty. He & my uncle used heavy chain & a Ford 9N orchard tractor to pull on the pipe that extended the wrench handle. Great fun to watch as a six-year-old boy. Thanks for the video!
@@furionese Phillips head are the absolute worst, guaranteed to cam out. That's where an impact driver becomes indispensable. (I don't mean the type of air impact wrench they used here, I mean the hand-held tool where you belt the end of it with a heavy hammer and an internal spiral twists the bit at the same time the impact forces it into the Philips slot). It's also very satisfying that the more you belt the &^%*^%$% out of the sod, the better it works. And some Philips screws that have taken perverse delight in deforming and munging their slots are sufficiently intimidated by it that they come out like a dream as soon as you tap the driver.
Wow, that was super interesting to watch, thank you for filming the process. At least to me it seemed like you had all the right tools you could wish for this job, but the bolts still only barely wanted to come out. This really shows nicely how parts like a hydraulic cylinder become incredibly more difficult to work with the larger they get.
I LOVE Super Heavy Duty industrial tools and equipment. It's fascinating how much power you need sometimes to just break away a bolt, it's just amazing!
It's been awhile since I watched your videos and I can definitely say this one is bringing me back I love it and thank you for all the hard work you do
Really appreciate these types of videos. This is what we like to see, the working of your shop and crew. Many times I find that I understand what is being said even though I only speak english. I appreciate seeing families working together. Thank You.
Sometimes i have this same situation,and ive had some success by heating the bolt, like you said, the bolt will expand and break the rust loose. So if you heat it extremely hot,then let the bolt cool down, it breaks free. But it does take a long time to get that much mass hot and then cooled back down. I'm super grateful to see you film this, so people that don't deal with this kind of thing, get to see how large industrial problems, are solved, and the effort that goes into keeping the world moving!
The was heating the wrong end. They needed to be heating the Part that contained the threads. If you heat the area that has the threaded hole, the hole gets bigger. If you can apply dry ice to the bolt head at the same time the bolt will shrink.
@@garymurt9112 when heating to expand the hole can't be done, hearing to expand the bolt is the alternative! When you expand the bolt (which he eludes to) it breaks whatever corrosion is keeping it from losening. Believe me, I've had to use both techniques. When you can't apply heat to the internal threads of a hole, because of warpage, or distorting the threaded part, heating to expand the bolt is the only other alternative!
@@garymurt9112if you heat the casing you heat the bolt too, it's like one part, doesn't matter if you cool the bolt head, the cooling does not really "penetrate" into the bolt. And if it does it cools the casing too again.
Thank you for doing this I really enjoy watching these videos when i was younger i use to watch stuff like How it's made and building documentaries this takes me back really appreciate this.
The best thing is to heat the area around the bolts to expand the material so the bolts can come out easier. And also hitting the housing with the hammer while your impacting the bolts can help too!
It makes sense from a thermal expansion perspective but the bolts are easy to replace while the housing is more or less custom made so you'd like to avoid damages to the housing. I wouldn't be surprised it the bolts were secured with Loctite Red or something similar extremely strong. Heating the bolts would cause it to break down and allow the bolts to be released. Recommendation for disassembly of LOCTITE 271 is to heat the material to about 250 degrees C and unscrew while hot. Just because the head is red hot doesn't mean that the thread is at the same temperature, so from that perspective this was probably the best way to go.
@@ehsnilsnope the housing is 10x stronger than the bolt is. I guarantee breaking a bolt off in there or even just stripping it off in there is worse than whacking the housing with a hammer.
I'm a forklift technician from Chicago and this repair is something I do fairly often but not on a cylinder as large as this. It blows my mind that it is the same concept with smaller cylinders to bigger they still have same components. Seals, o-rings wiper seals etc.... Great job gentleman...Cheers from Chicago
Doing a star pattern has nothing to do with the tension of the bolts themselv. You do this if you have a fragile or very wide housing with pretension from like a gasket so you don't warp the part, or if you pull in a tight slip or press fit so it dose not pull crooked. In this Szenario, the barrel is very sturdy and ther is no prelode betwen the parts because they are butted against each other and sealed with O- rings. The pretension in the bolts are just so they don't first stretch when you put 400bar of pressure betwen those parts and ruin your day. 😅
If there is a pre-load in parts like covers, manifolds, flanges, the tension will mostly release when you undoing the bolts. Car wheel is the same - when the bolt is hard, try next one and so on (eventually they will all release).
@@GrandePunto8V i think u got it back asswards bud. if theres a tight bolt, removing the bolt right next to it will make it even tighter. its like the spokes on a bicycle wheel. you break one spoke, what do you think happens to the spokes right next to it? they end up with higher tension
Thansk for sharing this. this is stufff htat regular people do not get to EVER see, and it's really interesting to see the machine itself, but also how you deal with the problems. regular people like me that only do littel projects once is a while have no idea how to solve some of those issues,...
It takes me back to old days working with my dad on Lokomo and Timberjack machines, doing all this kind of stuff with rams and pumps and motors. Nice video.
Next time you guys have a really stuck bolt and are using heat one way I found that works extremely well is to heat the bolt let it cool and repeat the process again and on the 3rd time let it cool slightly but still good and warm. What this does is helps the heat to penetrate the steel deeper than just one heat cycle. This works well on extremely rusted bolts also. Also helps to save the drive surfaces from becoming marred or misshapen.
As noted before if not a loctite type situation where heat needed to loosen that grip , but if corrosion only a few cycles as you say of heat & then a cold dousing immediate do loosen the grip too
Impact tends to jolt the thread interface enough to loosen it, this is why impact drivers work so well in the first place :P But combining high constant torque and impact (and heat) is usually the solution when you don't want to turn the bolt into a puddle (or dust).
"and know what we are doing, expect when the broom is on fire" Relateable :) Good effort folks, Cutting Edge Austrailia just did something similar - those cylinders are hard work.
My first thought was that heating bolts would make them thicker and tighter, but it made sense when you said it made them longer, interesting. The smoke looked very cinematic too 10:46
This shows that most people don't understand how a bolt works (why it "holds" things)! Scandal! Presented method is very basic: heating up the head elongates the bolt, releasing some tension. Good method to save the expensive parts, housings, castings, cylinders, whatever. Cheaper to replace the bolts than fix the cracked, annealed, overheated, warped parts. Plus pounding it with hammer like a monkey.
For anyone wondering about torque: when they had the pipe on there, 1lb/ft is linear. Two guys at 5ft is probably around 1000ft/lbs. Those bolts were tiiiiiight.
I had a stuck bolt on my MTB that required the same techniques. Hammering the casing helped the most, also ice cooling of the bolt. It ended up take three days to remove
VEO ESTE VIDEO Y COMO QUISIERA ESTAR AHI. MI CUERPO Y MI CEREBRO ME LO PIDEN. LA MANTENCION INDUSTRIAL ES TODA UNA AVENTURA. TODO UN DESAFIO. Y SIEMPRE HAY UNA HISTORIA QUE CONTAR DESPUES DE CADA REPARACION. Y HAY HOMBRES COMO YO QUE NO QUIEREN ESTAR SIMPLEMENTE MIRANDO COMO ALGUIEN SE SACRIFICA POR SALIR ADELANTE. GRAN VIDEO.
Love the job shop machinist stuff. Most people have no idea what it takes to keep industry running. Those are going to be some expensive seals. Getting those giant cap screw loose is going to cost the customer quite a bit.
New seals will cost little compared with a new barrel if they need one. If the barrel is chromed and may not be able to be fixed. Any gouges can’t just be honed out either as the internal diameter would be out of specification.
Thanks Laurie. Brilliant bit of machinery that I often wondered about and many others have gone over the subject in conversation. None of us had a great deal of information about the guts of these large rams. And your co-host also "hello"
As a product technician of the assembly of hydraulic cylinders I am actually surprised your initial idea was not to heat the bolts up before disassembly. Usually there are hefty amounts of loctite on those threads because you ideally do not want them to loosen once the cylinder is in use. From what I can see, they also did not have a set screw or additional mechanical locking design. Thereby, loctite being even more important and the perhaps only way to disassemble those bolts would be to heat the glue.
You also don't heat the bolt. Metal expands under heat. You want to heat AROUND the bolt not the bolt itself. The fact that he doesn't know this simple fact is both surprising and sad.
@@x808drifterI think you didn't get it. Bolt is under tension, if you heat it, it expands and reduces its tension. The longitudinal expansion is much higher than the expansion in diameter. Also, there is always some play between inner and outer threads, so as long as there is no rust heating the surrounding is going to make it worse. Most bolts, if not secured by loctite or rust, come right off with bare hands after you manage to snap or drill the head off, in example when the heads are rounded. Its mostly about pretension.
Dear "technician", you need more experience. Loctite alone will not cause so much trouble. These were old seized bolts (installed dry and rusted). Heating up the part (housing, casting, whatever) is always risky (cracks, warping etc.). It's way safer to heat up the head, to elongate the bolt and release some tension (this is how a bolt works). Heating up the threads area will not help much in this example (plus mentioned risks). Bolts are way cheaper than cylinder like that.
Brought back good memories of many years working in a British Steel Hot rolling section mill and these impact guns and 36" stillson's as our toys every shift...
I'll be honest with you - I've already seen dozens of explosion videos, and while they are always very interesting, this video is not just an everyday stuff and I'd like to see more of it :)
It's best to actuate the impacts in short bursts. Impacts offer the most breaking torque in the first 3 seconds. Continual driving after that has a significant drop off of breakaway torque.
That is due to the pressure drop in the line, if you have big lines that is not much of an issue. I have a 15mm hose and a 1" ring pipe and the bigger couplers in my shop, if you have a such a stuck bolts you can just hold on to it and stip threads if needed. If I put the wimpy 8mm spiral hose in between that drop of is very noticeable and you just see movement in the beginning like you described.
@@martin09091989 While the available air pressure is one of the factors causing break away torque drop. This issue is still the case even for electric impacts like the monster Milwaukee they tried to use. There is a lot of information on how impacts behave on the Torque Test Channel if anyone is comparing or thinking of buying an impact.
That insanely tight person got really happy with the impact gun. I work with cars trucks all day sometimes people put bolts on so tight I have to change the part. Like a simple oil drain bolt people use a 1500FPT impact gun. Its takes longer for a simple oil change. But awesome video guy satisfying watching you get all the bolts out
I appreciate this because there's a lot of good information on some things like dealing with stuck parts, it's nice to see that it came about without having to cut or burn the bolts out.
I am from Milwaukee, great to see home town represented. And seriously love the channel. By the way, yours must be the most Finnish accent I've even heard. 😮 I'm impressed. All good things.
The work pays off! Pls do more of these exotic Videos because they are somewhat relaxing and have a really good contrast to your usual content. And dont even try to be better then CCE Australia.
Nothing "exotic" about it. This is how industrial stuff looks like. Most of the time (50% man-hours) you clean something and fight stuck bolts like that (20-30% time). Actual job (repair, replace, adjustment) is the remaining time (percentage) left.
Awesome video. Are those brass rings on the piston? How does the repair happen? Do hone the bore like an engine and put larger rings? Or spray weld the internals and turn it back down to tolerances? That looked about as bad as getting an old Honda harmonic balancer bolt out. Luckily they make a socket that adds inertia to the impact.
I do work like this all the time and appreciate you guy’s! your fun to watch not a lot of guy’s interested in this type of work hopefully videos like yours will inspire the younger crowd …
Yeah, they "inspire" army of retards who comment on how the video technique was "wrong". The "lames and squares" give "advice" to Pros - to just heat up the whole thing and cool the bolt and BS like that... While heating the bolt elongated it and released most tension (video is 100% correct and practical).
Using the impact gun and a pipe wrench at the same time was a good idea, maximum torque! You both hanging on that pipe reminded me of that time when I was trying to bar over a locomotive diesel engine that hadn't ran for maybe 40 years, and that after a diesel soak for 3 weeks. I was literally deadlifting on that bar which was about the same length as yours and just managed to bend the pipe which was 60mm dia. and 5mm wall thickness, that engine didn't move at all. Later we disassembled it one piston at a time with a lot of effort.
Yes, I once tried with a 1600cc car engine that had sat for a while. Pistons were well stuck in the bores. There was absolutely no way it was going to turn over. So after taking it apart and lifting the crankshaft out, the pistons drove out individually with a hammer and wood block relatively easily.
We had the exact same size cylinders in our shop 2 years ago and the same problem. The bolts were almost impossible to get out. We had to use a 4 meter pipe on the allen wrench and lift it with the crane. 2 cylinders, 2 days. Not much fun in the summer heat. But we got it done. Cheers from Canada.
I really enjoyed this video. I know that you use your press for more than just smashing things. Myself, I like to see the things that the machine is made for.
Always good to see a shop video. Also get to see Temu as well. Been watching videos of people in other countries like Pakistan where they are working with large parts like this and repairing them, only they are doing it in dirt floor shops in their bare feet or with sandals on. Maybe you should employ the little woman to film while you work on this. Then you can work in the shop and we get to see it.
I fully expected you to use the hydraulic press at some point in that process, especially when that massive bar came out! Good that you got the job done without resorting to that though.
I loved this video! Don't be afraid to do more of these sort of behind-the-scenes of behind the Press of in the shop ugh the Press Channel. These are good
I had opportunity to document this magnificent effort from our brave team for your viewing pleasure! I didn't have super much time to polish the piece on editing table but it has it's moments thats sure :D Hope that you like it!
Lisää vaan! 👍
In USA we commonly call that a "Pallet Jack" or sometimes a "Pallet Truck".
Im super curious about the seal replacement on something this size.
Looks like a suitable piston for the clink cooler at my workplace.
@@WoodworkerDonin Finland we call them "Rocla" after the biggest brand.
I didn't realize how much I was missing these workshop videos until I watched this one. I know it's a ton of work, but I know there are some of out here that really enjoy it!
About three tons in this case.
Me too
I can recommend you the Cutting Edge Engineering channel where guy does such repairs all the time with nice australian accent :)
@@surikatgawanted to say the same lol
@@surikatga Yeah.. that's what we need. More of you clowns wandering around channels where work and knowledge exist.
Nothing like watching people doing honest work 😅
To be honest, I also like watching some people doing dishonest work.
what we need more in society!
It is hard work watching someone has to work so hard....
“Something to always think about when heating things that have oil in them: can it explode, and how bad is it going it be?” 😆 thanks Lauri
Yeah, I was thinking the same: "So... you are saying that some explosions would be acceptable?"
I crack up and laugh every time that he uses the phrase "That's not optimal" - it is always preceded by the absolute worst outcome that could possibly happen, however he delivers it in such a dry mater of fact way that it always catches me off guard. Loved the video - great content.
common finnish fatalism...
No polishing of the video is required, we love the content just like this. Please continue these whenever you want. Kiitos!
If you ever have to do this again it might be worth taking out every other bolt so that you're keeping some pressure evenly clamped around the ring. When you remove them all in a line you could be adding a pinch stress to some of the other fasteners.
My late father was an orchardist growing apples, pears, apricots, peaches & cherries in Canada's Okanagan Valley in the late 1940s ~ 1970s. He had a large pipe wrench the same size as the one you were using at 09:30, but its handle was bent ~30 degrees from routine use of a pipe extension about 3 m long just as you did. Buried 3" [76 mm] steel irrigation water pipe vertical risers can be difficult to disassemble when rusty. He & my uncle used heavy chain & a Ford 9N orchard tractor to pull on the pipe that extended the wrench handle. Great fun to watch as a six-year-old boy. Thanks for the video!
The bolts ARE the stars of the video. Pretty astounding
Imagine trying for hours and then discovering they're left-hand thread.
IVE BEEN THERE...!!!! I cant remember what it was on now.
Wow the pipe and impact at the same time was completely brilliant.. You are a genius.
I gasped when I saw that, definitely adding that to my arsenal of tricks
@@furionesethese are just normal hex, pipe wrench don't need any flats to work
@@furionese Phillips head are the absolute worst, guaranteed to cam out. That's where an impact driver becomes indispensable. (I don't mean the type of air impact wrench they used here, I mean the hand-held tool where you belt the end of it with a heavy hammer and an internal spiral twists the bit at the same time the impact forces it into the Philips slot). It's also very satisfying that the more you belt the &^%*^%$% out of the sod, the better it works. And some Philips screws that have taken perverse delight in deforming and munging their slots are sufficiently intimidated by it that they come out like a dream as soon as you tap the driver.
Cheater bar with a helper hammering the bolt head is a perfect recipe for stubborn lug bolts so makes sense the combination worked here too
They should buy a hy-torque, i love them.
Wow, that was super interesting to watch, thank you for filming the process. At least to me it seemed like you had all the right tools you could wish for this job, but the bolts still only barely wanted to come out. This really shows nicely how parts like a hydraulic cylinder become incredibly more difficult to work with the larger they get.
Timo: "Hey Lauri, have you seen my 5,000,000 mm Cheater Bar?"
If you have a big enough lever, something's gotta give.
I LOVE Super Heavy Duty industrial tools and equipment. It's fascinating how much power you need sometimes to just break away a bolt, it's just amazing!
It's been awhile since I watched your videos and I can definitely say this one is bringing me back I love it and thank you for all the hard work you do
Really appreciate these types of videos. This is what we like to see, the working of your shop and crew. Many times I find that I understand what is being said even though I only speak english. I appreciate seeing families working together. Thank You.
Sometimes i have this same situation,and ive had some success by heating the bolt, like you said, the bolt will expand and break the rust loose. So if you heat it extremely hot,then let the bolt cool down, it breaks free. But it does take a long time to get that much mass hot and then cooled back down.
I'm super grateful to see you film this, so people that don't deal with this kind of thing, get to see how large industrial problems, are solved, and the effort that goes into keeping the world moving!
The cooling down is a important part of getting it loose
The was heating the wrong end. They needed to be heating the Part that contained the threads. If you heat the area that has the threaded hole, the hole gets bigger. If you can apply dry ice to the bolt head at the same time the bolt will shrink.
@@garymurt9112 when heating to expand the hole can't be done, hearing to expand the bolt is the alternative! When you expand the bolt (which he eludes to) it breaks whatever corrosion is keeping it from losening. Believe me, I've had to use both techniques. When you can't apply heat to the internal threads of a hole, because of warpage, or distorting the threaded part, heating to expand the bolt is the only other alternative!
@indivisible885 they could of easily heated the area where the threads are.
@@garymurt9112if you heat the casing you heat the bolt too, it's like one part, doesn't matter if you cool the bolt head, the cooling does not really "penetrate" into the bolt. And if it does it cools the casing too again.
Thank you for doing this I really enjoy watching these videos when i was younger i use to watch stuff like How it's made and building documentaries this takes me back really
appreciate this.
That socket was the real MVP! Nice video.
Love seeing some more work from the workshop
HEAT.
BEAT.
REPEAT.
Works everytime.
The best thing is to heat the area around the bolts to expand the material so the bolts can come out easier. And also hitting the housing with the hammer while your impacting the bolts can help too!
I also would like to add giving the head of the fastener a good whack towards the threads with heat works very well
They are extremely experienced machinists that regularly work on large equipment… I am 100% sure they know both of those things.
It makes sense from a thermal expansion perspective but the bolts are easy to replace while the housing is more or less custom made so you'd like to avoid damages to the housing.
I wouldn't be surprised it the bolts were secured with Loctite Red or something similar extremely strong. Heating the bolts would cause it to break down and allow the bolts to be released.
Recommendation for disassembly of LOCTITE 271 is to heat the material to about 250 degrees C and unscrew while hot. Just because the head is red hot doesn't mean that the thread is at the same temperature, so from that perspective this was probably the best way to go.
@@ehsnilsnope the housing is 10x stronger than the bolt is. I guarantee breaking a bolt off in there or even just stripping it off in there is worse than whacking the housing with a hammer.
@@DMSparky people learn new things every day.
I'm a forklift technician from Chicago and this repair is something I do fairly often but not on a cylinder as large as this. It blows my mind that it is the same concept with smaller cylinders to bigger they still have same components. Seals, o-rings wiper seals etc.... Great job gentleman...Cheers from Chicago
Accidently set the broom on fire 😂
It's a miracle that only the broom was on fire with time swinging that torch :D
This really burns the broom!
Those are the reasons why we all like Timo, he casually sets the broom on fire ... :D
Isn't it recommended to remove bolts in a star formation not circle? It may have increased the tension as one side opened and the other is stuck.
Doing a star pattern has nothing to do with the tension of the bolts themselv.
You do this if you have a fragile or very wide housing with pretension from like a gasket so you don't warp the part, or if you pull in a tight slip or press fit so it dose not pull crooked.
In this Szenario, the barrel is very sturdy and ther is no prelode betwen the parts because they are butted against each other and sealed with O- rings. The pretension in the bolts are just so they don't first stretch when you put 400bar of pressure betwen those parts and ruin your day. 😅
If there is a pre-load in parts like covers, manifolds, flanges, the tension will mostly release when you undoing the bolts. Car wheel is the same - when the bolt is hard, try next one and so on (eventually they will all release).
@@GrandePunto8V i think u got it back asswards bud. if theres a tight bolt, removing the bolt right next to it will make it even tighter. its like the spokes on a bicycle wheel. you break one spoke, what do you think happens to the spokes right next to it? they end up with higher tension
Thansk for sharing this. this is stufff htat regular people do not get to EVER see, and it's really interesting to see the machine itself, but also how you deal with the problems. regular people like me that only do littel projects once is a while have no idea how to solve some of those issues,...
"100L of oil on the workshop floor and that not optimal" Quite the talent for understatement
As he said it turned out to be about 40L and only a couple of litres on the floor.
It takes me back to old days working with my dad on Lokomo and Timberjack machines, doing all this kind of stuff with rams and pumps and motors. Nice video.
Man, you really needed every trick in the book for this one! LOL
Next time you guys have a really stuck bolt and are using heat one way I found that works extremely well is to heat the bolt let it cool and repeat the process again and on the 3rd time let it cool slightly but still good and warm. What this does is helps the heat to penetrate the steel deeper than just one heat cycle. This works well on extremely rusted bolts also. Also helps to save the drive surfaces from becoming marred or misshapen.
As noted before if not a loctite type situation where heat needed to loosen that grip , but if corrosion only a few cycles as you say of heat & then a cold dousing immediate do loosen the grip too
1000 ton hydraulic press?
More vids like this would be amazing! Sucks that they are so time consuming :(
That bit when the music started 🤘. That was badass!
Impact tends to jolt the thread interface enough to loosen it, this is why impact drivers work so well in the first place :P
But combining high constant torque and impact (and heat) is usually the solution when you don't want to turn the bolt into a puddle (or dust).
"and know what we are doing, expect when the broom is on fire"
Relateable :)
Good effort folks, Cutting Edge Austrailia just did something similar - those cylinders are hard work.
My first thought was that heating bolts would make them thicker and tighter, but it made sense when you said it made them longer, interesting. The smoke looked very cinematic too 10:46
This shows that most people don't understand how a bolt works (why it "holds" things)! Scandal!
Presented method is very basic: heating up the head elongates the bolt, releasing some tension.
Good method to save the expensive parts, housings, castings, cylinders, whatever.
Cheaper to replace the bolts than fix the cracked, annealed, overheated, warped parts. Plus pounding it with hammer like a monkey.
Im glad you filmed this. Bring us more shop videos from time to time.
For anyone wondering about torque: when they had the pipe on there, 1lb/ft is linear. Two guys at 5ft is probably around 1000ft/lbs. Those bolts were tiiiiiight.
I had a stuck bolt on my MTB that required the same techniques. Hammering the casing helped the most, also ice cooling of the bolt. It ended up take three days to remove
I love this content, so interesting and cool.
VEO ESTE VIDEO Y COMO QUISIERA ESTAR AHI. MI CUERPO Y MI CEREBRO ME LO PIDEN. LA MANTENCION INDUSTRIAL ES TODA UNA AVENTURA. TODO UN DESAFIO. Y SIEMPRE HAY UNA HISTORIA QUE CONTAR DESPUES DE CADA REPARACION. Y HAY HOMBRES COMO YO QUE NO QUIEREN ESTAR SIMPLEMENTE MIRANDO COMO ALGUIEN SE SACRIFICA POR SALIR ADELANTE. GRAN VIDEO.
Love the job shop machinist stuff. Most people have no idea what it takes to keep industry running. Those are going to be some expensive seals. Getting those giant cap screw loose is going to cost the customer quite a bit.
New seals will cost little compared with a new barrel if they need one. If the barrel is chromed and may not be able to be fixed. Any gouges can’t just be honed out either as the internal diameter would be out of specification.
Thanks Laurie. Brilliant bit of machinery that I often wondered about and many others have gone over the subject in conversation. None of us had a great deal of information about the guts of these large rams. And your co-host also "hello"
As a product technician of the assembly of hydraulic cylinders I am actually surprised your initial idea was not to heat the bolts up before disassembly. Usually there are hefty amounts of loctite on those threads because you ideally do not want them to loosen once the cylinder is in use. From what I can see, they also did not have a set screw or additional mechanical locking design. Thereby, loctite being even more important and the perhaps only way to disassemble those bolts would be to heat the glue.
You also don't heat the bolt. Metal expands under heat. You want to heat AROUND the bolt not the bolt itself. The fact that he doesn't know this simple fact is both surprising and sad.
@@x808drifterI think you didn't get it. Bolt is under tension, if you heat it, it expands and reduces its tension. The longitudinal expansion is much higher than the expansion in diameter. Also, there is always some play between inner and outer threads, so as long as there is no rust heating the surrounding is going to make it worse.
Most bolts, if not secured by loctite or rust, come right off with bare hands after you manage to snap or drill the head off, in example when the heads are rounded. Its mostly about pretension.
@@x808drifter you heat the bolt. bolts are easy to replace, cylinders like that are not.
Dear "technician", you need more experience. Loctite alone will not cause so much trouble. These were old seized bolts (installed dry and rusted). Heating up the part (housing, casting, whatever) is always risky (cracks, warping etc.). It's way safer to heat up the head, to elongate the bolt and release some tension (this is how a bolt works). Heating up the threads area will not help much in this example (plus mentioned risks). Bolts are way cheaper than cylinder like that.
I love the real work videos. Cutting Edge Engineering is a great example of how to cover big work in a shop.
It's nice to watch hard work on a Sunday morning from the sofa at home, with a warm cup of coffee in hand.
Brought back good memories of many years working in a British Steel Hot rolling section mill and these impact guns and 36" stillson's as our toys every shift...
I'll be honest with you - I've already seen dozens of explosion videos, and while they are always very interesting, this video is not just an everyday stuff and I'd like to see more of it :)
It's best to actuate the impacts in short bursts. Impacts offer the most breaking torque in the first 3 seconds. Continual driving after that has a significant drop off of breakaway torque.
That is due to the pressure drop in the line, if you have big lines that is not much of an issue. I have a 15mm hose and a 1" ring pipe and the bigger couplers in my shop, if you have a such a stuck bolts you can just hold on to it and stip threads if needed. If I put the wimpy 8mm spiral hose in between that drop of is very noticeable and you just see movement in the beginning like you described.
@@martin09091989 While the available air pressure is one of the factors causing break away torque drop. This issue is still the case even for electric impacts like the monster Milwaukee they tried to use. There is a lot of information on how impacts behave on the Torque Test Channel if anyone is comparing or thinking of buying an impact.
@@martin09091989 You can add small reservoir at the end of the long extension hose, it will help a lot.
More of this, please! I used to work for a farm mechanic, and have fond memories, and stuff like this is very nice to watch!
I like the broom catching on fire! Things like that always give a good laugh out of nowhere :D
Timo was a bit careless with that flame.
That insanely tight person got really happy with the impact gun. I work with cars trucks all day sometimes people put bolts on so tight I have to change the part. Like a simple oil drain bolt people use a 1500FPT impact gun. Its takes longer for a simple oil change. But awesome video guy satisfying watching you get all the bolts out
I once had the same problem trying to open a jar of pickles. I used the same equipment that you guys did and finally got it open.
Very inspiring to watch your procedure.
This was an amazing video that really enjoyed watching. Your narration is great.
I appreciate this because there's a lot of good information on some things like dealing with stuck parts, it's nice to see that it came about without having to cut or burn the bolts out.
I really enjoy the workshop stuff.
Very interesting. My son and I have had stubborn bolts but not to this degree. There is a lot of useful information here.
Great workshop video! Fight with the stubborn bolts is always epic!
It’s nice to see the learning curve in practice. And one thing is to take it apart, and another to put it back together…
I am from Milwaukee, great to see home town represented. And seriously love the channel. By the way, yours must be the most Finnish accent I've even heard. 😮 I'm impressed. All good things.
Attualmente i love this video much more than the simple press videos, i think you have found the way to revive the channel!
Your workshop videos are my favourite!
3:30 Archimedes would be proud of that super long pipe.
This workshop stuff is quite interesting,, and this is a hydraulic ram so very apt!
The work pays off! Pls do more of these exotic Videos because they are somewhat relaxing and have a really good contrast to your usual content. And dont even try to be better then CCE Australia.
Nothing "exotic" about it. This is how industrial stuff looks like. Most of the time (50% man-hours) you clean something and fight stuck bolts like that (20-30% time). Actual job (repair, replace, adjustment) is the remaining time (percentage) left.
Timo!!!! Please make more shop videos. I really miss seeing the work in the shop.
Nice! I actually like seeing your work more than the press stuff.
This is the kind of videos I love! Honestly I dont watch the hydraulic press videos anymore
I Liked watching this video. Thanks for explaining the weights and giving details. You all did a great job. I Found this video very interesting.
Awesome video. Are those brass rings on the piston? How does the repair happen? Do hone the bore like an engine and put larger rings? Or spray weld the internals and turn it back down to tolerances? That looked about as bad as getting an old Honda harmonic balancer bolt out. Luckily they make a socket that adds inertia to the impact.
As a mechanic at a blast furnace:
That's a cute cylinder :)
Love the vids btw.
I do work like this all the time and appreciate you guy’s! your fun to watch not a lot of guy’s interested in this type of work hopefully videos like yours will inspire the younger crowd …
Yeah, they "inspire" army of retards who comment on how the video technique was "wrong". The "lames and squares" give "advice" to Pros - to just heat up the whole thing and cool the bolt and BS like that...
While heating the bolt elongated it and released most tension (video is 100% correct and practical).
I love seeing how different hydraulic cylinders are designed
Would definitely enjoy seeing the reassembly of this thing! Well done to you all and glad no one died taking it apart! 💪👍
Using the impact gun and a pipe wrench at the same time was a good idea, maximum torque!
You both hanging on that pipe reminded me of that time when I was trying to bar over a locomotive diesel engine that hadn't ran for maybe 40 years, and that after a diesel soak for 3 weeks.
I was literally deadlifting on that bar which was about the same length as yours and just managed to bend the pipe which was 60mm dia. and 5mm wall thickness, that engine didn't move at all.
Later we disassembled it one piston at a time with a lot of effort.
Yes, I once tried with a 1600cc car engine that had sat for a while. Pistons were well stuck in the bores. There was absolutely no way it was going to turn over. So after taking it apart and lifting the crankshaft out, the pistons drove out individually with a hammer and wood block relatively easily.
Super interesting. Thank you for taking the time and effort to film your process. What kind of machine does such a colossal cylinder go into?
I don't know where that one came from, but they use ones this size for hydraulically operated bridges.
@@mfbfreak Makes sense. The ingenuity and effort he spent trying to get those bolts off would make me a desperate man if it was on me to do LOL
nice to see the rose bud coming out! most underrated shop tool
As i work in a similar field i really enjoyed watching this video, thank you.
That was quite satisfying, especially that ridiculously long lever :D
Very interesting. A world I'd never see otherwise.
Wow. I want to see the whole rebuild. That is one huge ram.
Great video. Thank you. Fully aligned with enjoying the summer while it's with us. Plenty of time for work when the rain comes.
PB rust buster. The best rust penetrant ever made. Used it my entire career. It and some heat will break any fastener loose.
We had the exact same size cylinders in our shop 2 years ago and the same problem. The bolts were almost impossible to get out. We had to use a 4 meter pipe on the allen wrench and lift it with the crane. 2 cylinders, 2 days.
Not much fun in the summer heat. But we got it done. Cheers from Canada.
Really like this sort of video!
Would be very interesting to see how you fix scratches in the surfaces.
this is the best video in times saw on your channel! I love this stuff!
Amazing! I love it when you work with your father
i like watching stuff like this. you should film more of your work.
I`m impressed by the fact you didn`t strip any of the heads considering the torque you gave them.
I really enjoyed this video. I know that you use your press for more than just smashing things. Myself, I like to see the things that the machine is made for.
Always good to see a shop video. Also get to see Temu as well. Been watching videos of people in other countries like Pakistan where they are working with large parts like this and repairing them, only they are doing it in dirt floor shops in their bare feet or with sandals on. Maybe you should employ the little woman to film while you work on this. Then you can work in the shop and we get to see it.
Thats almost like changing the tires on my car.
Cursing at it does help.
I fully expected you to use the hydraulic press at some point in that process, especially when that massive bar came out! Good that you got the job done without resorting to that though.
dont have to worry about them bolts falling out...be safe over there... hello from Cleveland Ohio..USA
These kind of videos are very good.
Please try to show us more of the work in the shop.
Thanks!
I loved this video! Don't be afraid to do more of these sort of behind-the-scenes of behind the Press of in the shop ugh the Press Channel. These are good
The workshop videos are great! Keep them coming
I'm so glad this fall in my lap. Great video!!