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- Опубліковано 21 сер 2024
- In this episode I show how I sped up my Tractor Supply countyline flog splitter cycle time in order to increase production. This video is or information only, if you decide to do this modification, you are assuming the risks to your equipment and yourself.
PART #2 and a better design for speeding up my splitter cycle time • #236 Speeding up log s...
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I absolutely agree with Richard Browne below: DEFINITELY better to move the stop-plate FORWARD - with a big ol' hunk of wood? - preventing eventual (expensive!) damage to both your movable joints and hydraulics in the process! Come on, Kelly, THIS IS GREAT ADVICE! 😀👍👍
I'll take the advice and play around with a few ideas this week. That's what the comment section is for, suggestions and ideas. Thanks
Drop the steel tubing down lower, close to where the hydraulic arm attaches to the maul. That will probably reduce the amount of leverage on the top of the maul, which would reduce the amount of pivot at the attachment point.
ua-cam.com/video/AYEl6JB_Sbg/v-deo.html
Check this out, I changed the design.
Well ,imo you should patent that dang little change.Start aftermarket selling the dang thing..
But I could imagine the comments you must have gotten .I didn't go back to read any, just like watching your ideas. The whole channel in general..Thanks and God bless y'all.keep up the great work.
Thank you for watching, God bless!
I have built a bunch of splitters. I would drill holes in the top flange of the Ibeam and put a 1/2 bolt where it would contact the heel of the wedge guide @ 18" opening. No failures in thousands of cycles.
I built a mechanism yesterday that trips the handle, works great and eliminates all pressure points. Video out tomorrow.
Good video man!!! Thanks for telling us at the start that you weren't going to mod the hydraulics or engine. I watched the whole video because you took the time to do that and not lie to us. The only thing I'll say you could do to speed up is once it cracks the wood you don't have to run the splitter all the way down to the end, your Wood is already split and there is just a little piece of bark or sliver of wood holding it on which you can break away easy. it'll save you a bunch of time in the long run. Anyway great video and thanks!!!
The type of oaks I split can be stringy requiring a deeper split. Check this video out, I changed the design and it works great! ua-cam.com/video/AYEl6JB_Sbg/v-deo.html
Love the ingenuity! I decided on a kinetic splitter and ordered a Generac 10 ton electric. My plan is to buy several split cords to start off ( 180 a cord around here, and they're chunky pieces) and split those down a bit. I own a landscaping business so dont have a ton of time to get logs, buck them up then split so pre split, seasoned wood is the way to go for me right now.
I redid this test and made a mechanism that triggers the handle, much safer for me and the equipment.
Love it! Got the original, saw how small it was, returned it for the XL. It splits my ~7x16" firewood into smallwood and kindling in a flash. ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxSRemO77LrM90rx_It_Wh6ZnKAS0H2A8t Good for debarking too. It's so fun I now have too much kindling and have to fight the urge to split the big pieces. I usually split dried cedar, but I've split dried oak too. The edge on mine has stayed razor sharp. I mounted it on a couple pieces of pressure treated 4x4 to hold it steady and quiet the ringing. Several reviews and videos show people having trouble keeping the wood straight. How do I put this gently?... You have to be smarter than the wood. Don't try to split knots, or badly curved grain. And hold the wood (with leather gloves) and tap it once to set it on the blade before giving it a good whack. And you have to know how to swing a hammer. If you don't know what wood grain or knots are, and you can't swing a hammer without hitting yourself or things around you, I suggest buying firewood and kindling pre-split. But if you're smarter than a log, this beautiful tool will make splitting firewood into kindling safer, faster and way more funner! I highly recommend it, and get the XL.
Check out part two, I built an adjustable trip arm.
You like your wood split more or thinner than me. Thats the pleasure of having your own splitter isn't it. I used to do it all with a monster maul I bought in the eighties. I'm 61 and its just taking to long now. I bought 4 acres and had to clear out a bunch of trees. They wanted 10,000 dollars for this. I said no. Guess who did it. His name was me, myself and I. I'm way the duck ahead. I bought a 30 ton county line at tractor supply. I love this mother Rucker. It sure is better than swinging my 18 pound monster maul from all those years. Hey thats nice of you showing us how you did something to better your situation. What I was doing was after I split a piece of wood. I would throw it into my little tractor garden trailer. Then when the piston went back. I would tap the handle so it wouldn't retract all the way in. But I was taking the wood to another stack and not stacking it right next to where I was splitting the wood at. Anyway I'm happy as hell. My problem is lifting these heaving rounds onto the splitter. So I took one of my ramps and put it onto my splitter. Then I roll the heavy ass round up the ramp. This has helped my back out a lot. Meanwhile I'm working on a swingarm for the splitter. It will have a battery operated winch on the top of the swing arm with a 50 foot cable . My back will be very happy after I get this swing arm done. Yea your idea is good man. Keep thinking Guy. Cause its good for the mind and the body.
We don't heat with wood in Florida, just recreational burn. Thinner dries quicker and produces a nice hot quick flame.
Yea I went to fort Myers last February and 3 of the days were chilly on the willy. I think it was in the low 50's Anyway it was good at Lani kai on the strip and warm enough in the sun during the day. God bless Florida and I hope Your governor becomes the next president. Biden Blows. So yea it was definitely good for a recreational burn. I actually had a couple chills run up my spine. But as soon as I ordered a shot. It all went away.
I like the 4 was splitter that drops over steel wedge. Helps speed up cuts and protects original wedge. Worst case if I ruin it can pull off and only 59 bucks. Thanks for sharing.. Same splitter and great machine!
I've been back and forth about the 4 way, I read a lot of reviews about it breaking. That's what kept me from purchasing it
@@TKCL I’ve put about 5.5 chords of hard wood and holding ok. It has a few marks like you showed on the video but even if it breaks now I feel great having only dropped 59. On it. I do wish the side blades were just a touch wider but it is designed to slip into that notch in the resting place and pulls off the wood so I left it without welding... if I do weld anything it’s going to be a solid piece on top as another wing but it serves me fine for now.. definitely cut my time down with sides on it
In my opinion from watching this video. It may help the splitter if you added tw 4x4 blocks stacked to the end of the splitter since you are already stopping the wedge once it breaks the wood apart . It would do about the same thing but help the splitter from wear
Excellent idea! Something I'll look into for horizontal splitting, wouldn't help me as much for vertical.
i watched a guy ruin his cylinder and tear off his splitter head trying this. I agree add to other end!!!
Less than 24 after making this video I changed the design, see here ua-cam.com/video/AYEl6JB_Sbg/v-deo.html
Most of us that have a large family or friends that we split wood for and want certain sizes split do just that. I have 2 other JIGS I made and they were cheap I found the damn metal along the frigging hiway. One piece was actually a metal wheel chock off a dozers trailer our hiway dept left it behind a block from my house. Saw it when I was on my motorcycle. Another piece was in the bed of a truck I bought. Have no idea what it was for but a little cutting and welding and the damn thing fit like a glove. So I can split my 20inch I can split 18 and 16 inch.. No complaints no mods needed. The bottoms of the jigs I welded 3/4 nuts to em and use 3/4 bolts tighten em up so the jig doesn't hop off the machine. I have no complaints. I did weld beads on the face of the jigs so the wood does not hop or pop off the machine. Not every piece I cut is perfect cut.
I have a smaller splitter. I also made a limiter and it saves time and I have extra convenience. Have a good time!
Mr.Kelly you could back off the detent just a bit so the Handle kicks out at a lesser pressure. Now there is probably a fine line so small adjustment could make a big difference. I think you will eventually wear out the hole in the rod of the cylinder. Just my 2 cents but probably worth looking at.💪🏻💪🏻🍺🍺
Thank you for the suggestion, I'm already considering many different suggestions from viewers this morning. I do feel long term that bolt hole will wear out. I'll see if I can figure out how to adjust the detent.
@@TKCL I think that is a good idea.
@@TKCL There is usually a cap screwed on the valve somewhere if yours is adjustable. Remove the cap, and there will be a screw under it....back it out (shortening the spring tension on the detent ball) and it will pop out under less pressure when the ram encounters resistance. It MAY, however, also affect the amount of pressure on the forward stroke....run into a tough piece to split and you may find that is the only pressure relief on your particular valve, so it pops out and you lose splitting pressure. You'll simply have to try it and see.
@@edsmith4414 the setting of the main pressure relief valve and the setting on the detent release are completely independent. Changing one will have no effect on the other.
After using my 5 ton electric splitter for 15 years, I realized I could just put a 4" 2x4 at the end to speed up the cycle time. Made a big difference. Same idea as yours.
I scrapped this idea due to concerns of damage to the splitter. I made a mechanism that trips the hydraulic control lever out. Here is the video ua-cam.com/video/AYEl6JB_Sbg/v-deo.html
Great video! Well done.
Thanks
Make sure to watch round 2, I change the design.
Thanks! The second design seems to put less pressure on the motor and hydraulic system. Great design!
That is pretty neat idea. I have the same machine. we usually split with two people. I usually handle all wood moving and loading on the splitter. The other just runs hydraulics. We slam through the wood. It is really time comsuming by yourself. By the end of the day we are tired. That machine wares us out lol.We usually load the rounds in the loader. It seems alot easier on the back. Nice to have the larger ones elivated to put on the splitter. Then we load into the side by side and the loader bucket as it empties. Then i stack and just keep moving the wood. It really seems all in the setup and what works for you. Also somehow we always seem to have a round on the ground near the rack of the splitter to set wood for spliting. Usually a place to set the halves of larger rounds awaiting the final split. If you dont enjoy it soon it is just like work. So be safe and keep all your fingers!
Check out the most recent cycle time video. I built a much safer mechanism that trips the splitter hydraulic control handle. A larger rack is on my mind to build soon, I feel like I never have enough room on the log catch table.
@@TKCL yea that why we seem to have the extra round to set things on its usually a two food round. It also helps with the room you need to keep splitting with the rack. That is also why I like to feed the rounds off the tractor loader. As you empty it we fill with split wood and gives you room to set things as you split. Sometimes we feed off the tractor and put split ones into the side by side. The person just clearing wood is a big help. You will find what you like. We found we can fly through 10 to 16 inch rounds. Just do to the size. Your not fighting all the weight of two foot ones. We always run horizontal. Unless we have to halve the big rounds. It hard to sit and split them. Thanks for sharing the video. Hope the new building is working out well. Phase things in as you go and have fun with it.
Had never thought of doing something like that. Pretty ingenious idea Andrew. Looks like it makes a real difference for you too. Am thinking of buying a tractor supply splitter and will see how things hold up for you. Enjoyed it!
Side note, working this weekend so might miss the live stream, hate working every other weekend but have to pay those bills! Will try to pop in for a minute and say hi on my way to work.
Thanks,
Doug
Thanks! Don't worry about the live stream, we appreciate you watching these videos and taking the time to comment. Those bills and that job come first.
Excellent video and great idea, mine drives me nuts when it does that I never actually measured the time like you did, but I think I’ll just both of 2 x 4 on there and call it good.
Thank you for the good video
Love it!!! I think I will use a 4x4 piece.....
Check out this video, I changed the design ua-cam.com/video/AYEl6JB_Sbg/v-deo.html
Thats funny, i just watched a UA-cam video the other day where a guy hose clamped a long rod to the big part of the ram so it stuck past the distance he needed. I can see where that would save time. Thanks for sharing Andrew.
Thanks, I've already got a few renditions in mind. I might revisit this.
Toss your splits in a wheelbarrow. When its full, throttle back and stack. Also, you buy hydraulic cylinder limiting collars that slip onto the piston. They used them on batwing mowers. Should be heavy duty enough for a splitter.
You can buy stroke regulators for the cylinder shaft itself. They are used on ag equipment all the time. Just an idea....
Does it just clamp to the shaft and make contact with the cylinder? I'm interested!
@@TKCL they clamp on the the cylinder themself yes
Thanks
I think that would be better because the way the back of the wedge is making contact at the top is putting a lot of stress on the cylinder and machine itself as the bottom of the wedge gets driven down in the bed.
Mine well stop where you want it !! I can even cut cooky pieces maines new maybe a month could be a different design
I most definitely like your idea I think I will put foam or something to protect the rod and then slip a pipe over the rod 👍
I changed the design, check this out ua-cam.com/video/AYEl6JB_Sbg/v-deo.html
Nice job!!
Thanks
I have an different opinion your putting extra load on the cylinder seals. It would be beneficial to put the 4 x 4 at the other end and you’re shorting the stroke in the same manner without exerting any unnecessary loads on your hydraulic cylinder. But I do like it.
Watch this, I changed that design within 24 hours ua-cam.com/video/AYEl6JB_Sbg/v-deo.html
The easy speed-up hack is to put the block of wood at the butt plate end. This way you still get the benefit of the dislodging bars.
That does not help for vertical splitting, I changed my design to this
ua-cam.com/video/AYEl6JB_Sbg/v-deo.html
Good mod. Only suggestion would be to have lowered the metal bar you installed to just a hair over the cylinder rod. If you look back at your video you can see how the entire head torques upon return. This would be mitigated by placing the bar close to the rod.
I replaced that design less than 24 hours after making this video. Check out my new design ua-cam.com/video/AYEl6JB_Sbg/v-deo.html
hi there real good idea i have done something similar but with a different splitter . on yours i believe i would drill a large whole threw those two up rights and use a pin . then if you happen to get a large round just pull the pin out . it also gives you the ability to pull the pin and let the cyd go all the way back to the original parking spot . just dropping another idea good job john
Great idea! I'm already playing with something in mind that will make the stroke adjustable. A lot of good ideas this morning from viewers.
@@TKCL hi again built my first splitter in 72 back then no where to find help . . your splitting ways will change from time to time and i settled into my way about 8 years ago and it works well for me . i shared it with a few neighbors an they love it . john
Hydraulic stop rings work good too. Use them on my splitter and my hay rakes as well
I was going to use those until someone showed me a video of them slipping and busting the splitting head off the cylinder shaft. I have a new video out today showing my most recent modification that triggers the handle.
You are now putting all the pressure and torque at the tops off the log kickers, with time and many cycles it will affect the welds or bolts holding these down. Would suggest to you that you have an equivalent steel or wood bar at the bottom in order to spread it out more evenly.
I'm already altering the design, practically no time on the current setup. Going to try an idea that I have that will remove all pressure points.
They make limiters to "clamp" on the rod of the cylinder. They are called "Cylinder Stroke Control." Takes 2 seconds and inexpensive without harming cylinder. You can add as many as needed to get desired stop and return point.
That’s what I use on my damdam disc so I just remove what I need 😊
Well it’s simple mathematics really, you’re saving nearly 50% on the stroke, so you’ll get done in half a day what you’ll normally get done in a day!
I made a stroke limiter that I found on Jonas Champion’s UA-cam channel. It will work on your splitter as well. Very easy and efficient. Cost me about $10 dollars in parts. It can be set up for whatever length wood you want. I cut all my wood at 16” so I set it up to stop at 17 and 1/2 “.
I'll check it out, thanks
Nice tip on reducing cycle time! 4.5sec rated cycle time for the Eastonmade Ultra.
That Easton made is insanely fast!
@@TKCL, it was designed to compete with the kinetic splitters.
I believe it definitely can
@@TKCL, Eastonmade did a comparison video. The Ultra with the 4-way wedge is twice as productive as the best kinetic splitters.
You do an awesome job with your wood splitter and it's great how you share your knowledge and experience with your viewers. Take care.
Thank you very much for the kind words
Good Idea 👍🏽
If you put a clamp-on stop on the cylinder ram you can set your stroke with zero pinch points.
Did this last year to mine lol now I find your video my production is alot faster
Check out my second video, I built an adjustable trip lever to speed it up.
@@TKCL gotta see if I can find it you got alot of videos
I see you found it
Ok last comment about it I promise at 15:03 same thing you turn the wood after the first split and create four pieces immediately..
There's another video on utube where a guy takes a piece of strong cord and essentially does the same thing. It was incredibly simple and and worked very well too. One end of the cord ties to the upright farthest from the lever, lays in front of the other upright, and then it tied to the lever. When the wedge retracts, it pushes on the cord which in turn pulls the lever forward. So, I'll be doing that on my splitter.
Watch this video, I changed the design and it works very well. I like the cord idea. ua-cam.com/video/AYEl6JB_Sbg/v-deo.html
Man, I’m gonna catch my death out here, it’s in the mid-40s here and rain, and I’m got to try this out. If I don’t catch the covid19, then, it will be a bad cold, the pneumonia bug, but someone with better explaining vocabulary than mine. My wife will kill me. Heck, my home, shop are total electric, but, I love to do, to watch people with their tools doing stuff! Great vlog, thanks for sharing.
Check out today's video, I redo this modification and it works out even better ua-cam.com/video/AYEl6JB_Sbg/v-deo.html
what you can do is move down the 2x2 steel pc to the middle of the push ram and that way will have less tension
That's exactly what I thought when he mentioned the concern about the twist or pivot he is seeing on the wedge when it hits the stop. It would be the same tension, but it will not put a twist on the wedge when it hits the limit. He would have to redesign the 2x2 block, since it can't pass right through the cylinder shaft.
I do see your wedge tipping forward every time it hits that tube and I did not see that happening as much when you were using that piece of wood. I think if you could somehow lower the attachment point of the tube to somewhere just above the attachment point of the cylinder to the wedge, that pivoting motion won't be as bad.
I was thinking the same thing
Same thoughts here.
As another viewer suggested, I can put a piece top to bottom on both sides of the wedge for even contact. I'll probably work on that this week so there is even pressure on the splitting wedge.
@@TKCL good idea - anything you can do to prevent that pivot when it shuts off will save your ways (what the maul rides on) from getting beat up 👍
also if you can add a piece of floor mat or any kind of rubber to the front of the metal that will reduce the shock load when it shuts off - anything you can do to prevent sudden shocks will just make everything last longer.
Very interesting. Enjoyed it and might consider doing something similar with my champion splitter!
I'm going to play with a couple more ideas to take the stress off of certain areas. I'll get another video out soon.
Not sure what the return tonnage is but for argument sakes will say 20 ton... pushing at 25 ton force the pressure is against the ram not the bolt holding in place... when you pull back and use the blade portion to stop the return early all that pressure is against the pin holding the blade in place and you can see the twisting from this angle.... its a great idea and your definitely on the right track to saving time. But in time you will break something hopefully not the cylinder... I have the champion 27 ton and to speed things up I put a chunk of wood at the end... putting the log closer to the business end.. its pretty well free and dosent add strain on the mechanics of the splitter
Watch this video if you have time, I've already redone the design completely different now and safe. ua-cam.com/video/AYEl6JB_Sbg/v-deo.html
You’re also saving the time for the wedge to return to the 16 inch position before it starts bleeding again. So basically you can double the time savings
Thank you, very good young man.
Thank you for watching
Hello from a fellow splitter with the same issue. The big difference is that I don't turn around to stack mine like you do. I either fling them over towards the stacking rack or into the tractor bucket to drive them over there. So, based on your idea which is "dirt simple", What if you just built out a 6" sturdy steel box at the "dead end" of the splitter rather than it blocking off at the wedge end? Seems like it would work just as well and it would not change the internal hydraulic detent inside the cylinder, just shorten up the stroke.
Check this out, I changed the design and it's been working perfectly. ua-cam.com/video/AYEl6JB_Sbg/v-deo.html
Great video Andrew! 2.5 seconds times 1,000 strokes is a lot of savings! The thought of creating a foot activated split controls has crossed my mind, but that might be a bit too dangerous having two hands potentially in the danger zone. The way it operates now, at least one hand (your right hand) isn't likely to get hurt.
I've got another control in mind that should take all the pivot points and stresses out.
@@TKCL Install a 9 inch piece of 2 inch dia. steel pipe over the hyd. cylinder shaft, between the top of the cylinder and the splitter head attach point? That way the head could only retract so far before the pipe forces it into neutral?
A viewer showed me some clamp on stops for the shaft that would do something similar. I am a little concerned about the pressure it would put on the cylinder wall. I think I've got a idea in mine to eliminate all that
I have seen videos of sheared pins and ends of cylinder shafts broke off from doing this !! The proper thing to do is to take up the access space on the other end where your stop block is !!
I watched that video today and I'm already working on another idea to accomplish the same thing. This time there will be no pivot or pressure points.
All you needs are a few spring loaded hydraulic cylinder collars. Go to your local farm store.!!
Makes more sense to position a spacer against the front stop rather than behind the wedge. A couple different thickness blocks of wood for different length logs could sit passively against the front stop. These front blocks could have side cheeks or even a slide-over keeper, but probably unnecessary. This would avoid the tipping torque created by your rear stop, which will accelerate wear of the guide track.
Are the side guides really pinch points ? There appears to be clearance between them and the wedge.
Could have delivered your main concept in a couple minutes and additional points in another 2 minutes - 5 minutes max.
The big point your missing there is I often split in the vertical position. Blocking the end makes splitting that way almost impossible to do, especially with large rounds. Watch this video, I immediately changed the design that speeds up cycle time in the horizontal and vertical positions. ua-cam.com/video/AYEl6JB_Sbg/v-deo.html
Yeah, apologies TKCL. I read a few comments before posting my reply then read more comments and found your later UA-cam development. I tried to delete, but seems I was over the allotted time. (I don’t why UA-cam gives you the menu option if it isn’t available).
It can be easier to build on someones great idea, and in that vain, I wonder if the control lever could be tripped out with a light cable around a pulley on the side of the bed ? I suspect you could further develop your lever trip linkage to a more eloquent arrangement - couple ideas already. :-)
And finally, I have to agree with other commentators - clip on collars that go over the ram shaft. They’re common at agricultural machinery sellers, used for setting heights of mowers, planters, etc. The pressure that is required to trip the control valve detent back to neutral is not significant (and in many control valves is adjustable). A couple different length collars in your toolbox avoids that linkage you’ve developed, which is vulnerable and could possibly foul on something like clothing.
Mine is vertical,like it much better,no lifting.
You want the best mod you can do....weld a 1 inch protrusion on the base and watch how the wood gets torn after multiple splits you should be throwing 4-6 pieces at a time falling apart as they hit the pile
i split lots of wood and that first few seconds add up, good job ill try it.
Check this video out, I modified the splitter again to remove the pinch points and stress on the machine. ua-cam.com/video/AYEl6JB_Sbg/v-deo.html
I noticed with this wood, you don't need to run the wedge all the way to the end either. That's saves even mpore. Before, I saw softer wood that would not pop apart. Man this test ran very fast!
It makes a hell of a lot of difference, I see that cylinder jump up when ever it hits the mode you put in.
I'll give you my two cents worth here if you extend the connection between the splitter and the cylinder by welding a strong piece of pipe between the two an gus the pipe I think the cylinder won't jump up saving you some ware and tear on your splitter. My thoughts
See this video, I changed the design less than 24 hours after making the video you watched. ua-cam.com/video/AYEl6JB_Sbg/v-deo.html
I’d be swapping that wedge out with that back plate and mounting or better yet a 4 way where the back plate is if it was me !
My new machine is that way.
I do this except I put the block of wood on the base plate it works good
I changed my design immediately, check this one out ua-cam.com/video/AYEl6JB_Sbg/v-deo.html
Man that modification and makes a big difference. Some people say no it don't but when it's your time it does make a difference. I saw how you was waiting. That was seconds wasted. Trust me I know what you mean. Right now I'm on the road Trucking 🚛 every second of my driving accounts. When you got 750 miles you need to do in 11 hours for a 1500 Mile Road Trip every second count.
Yes it does! I'll keep playing with my design and try to come up with something I know won't damage my splitter.
You just need to do all your wood splitting in fast forward, it gets the job done so much quicker. 😊
Lol, noted! Boy I can probably get out a couple thousand cords of wood that way 😁
At 12:04 that piece could have been turned after the first split two be made into 4 .hope you get what I'm trying to say.and you probably already do this at times I just hadn't caught it yet.Love y'all's chann keep up the hard work.
Yes I do often split as you described, I trigger on it more often now.
You are the man,I know you do your thing and get it done..I've watched Enough episodes to see that as well..Take good care..👍
Keep an eye on that wedge to ram connection. Saw a guy ruin the hydraulic cylinder on another channel with ram stops. I use a short block of wood on the bottom end, sometimes I go to far and split it but I always have plenty of cutoffs
I seen that video too, was considering the ram stops until I watched that one. I am working on a new idea today, should have a video out soon.
To save even more time ,I noticed at times you could be splitting some pieces that have been split just by turning in a position where four pieces can come from just a simple turn of the wood and not taking the pieces completely apart.ill put in a time from this video to try to explain my meaning.if you didn't understand from my rambling..I split wood alot and just noticed a few different things that's all..God bless you and Tiffany and your family.
Must only advice would be to use two pieces of steel, stacked on top of one another. Because your stop block is so high ( and away from the cylinder) your getting a lot of stress down where the cylinder hooks to the wedge. Great idea though!
Adam
Maine, USA
I agree with you, definitely a lot of great viewer suggestions this morning.
You should put a bunch of wood in your tractor bucket and bring it closer to you and leave bucket up all most waste high and save your back. Hope stopping the wood splitter that way don't break the bolt on the piston.
This was just a quick demo of the unit, I'm usually much more efficient. Watch this video, I've already taken that bar off ua-cam.com/video/AYEl6JB_Sbg/v-deo.html
I noticed without the steel stopper you run the ram almost all the out but with it you stop it before it gets out to far, that is where you are saving alot of time. plus youu need to lower the steel stopper!
I changed the design almost immediately, see this ua-cam.com/video/AYEl6JB_Sbg/v-deo.html
I think using an axe is totally free, more fast and easy way to split this logs. And of course no annoying noise.
I purchased a Countyline 25 ton log splitter after a lot of research and your videos helped me make the call to go with this particular splitter. I have split a couple cords of wood and so far really like the tool with one exception. The exhaust and heat from the engine seems to blow around my legs when it is in the horizontal position and the fumes can get too much at times. Have you had this issue? I've placed a small piece of plywood between the muffler and my legs which stops most of the fumes and rotating the splitter to use whatever breeze there is to move the exhaust away also helps but would like a more permanent solution to modify the exhaust routing. Thanks, Also liked the ice maker you built!
No I can't say I've had that problem at all. I wonder if they changed the exhaust or something 🤔
At 11:27 just by turning the already split piece without separating it you could create 3or 4 pieces of firewood instead of two and then splitting those two into four.
Top Video!
Thanks
I have a simpler solution. Tie some rope onto the furthest catch from the handle. Run it across the catches and tie it to the handle so that when the splitter head comes back, it will pull the rope which will pull the handle forward stopping it.
Watch this video, I made a new design immediately ua-cam.com/video/AYEl6JB_Sbg/v-deo.html
@@TKCL well yours looks a lot more fun to make than mine... :-) Worked well it looks like.
It's been working great for well over a year.
N the big chunks you took full strokes with the splitter, mostly, but with the smaller pieces, some you took as little as 2” strokes with the splitter on that cherry-wood. Now that’s some straight-grained wood.
Yes, that's why I love cherry and water oak. Splits very easy and straightest grain around.
I can see moving your blocking tube as low as possible without touching the ram shaft. That would help the wedge not to pivot as much. Great idea in reducing cycle time.
Due to a bunch of concerns brought up by viewers, I'm going a completely different route that should eliminate all pressure/pivot points.
@@TKCL I’m interested in what you come up with. I guess it’s hard to out proof the idiots.
Lol, I take all criticism as constructive. It drives me to come up with something better. I'll start building the mechanism tomorrow and hopefully have a video out by the end of the week.
There is a vidio that you will find' stroke limmiter for woodsplitter' that May be useful
I actually built my NEW concept yesterday and it worked great. Will be testing it further today to verify it's ability to continue to work with a bunch of splitting to do. Video out tomorrow
I have a splitter that has an aluminum sleeve with a nylon bolt that slides on the cylinder shaft. You slide it where you want the ram to stop and tighten the nylon bolt hand tight. The aluminum sleeve hits the valve lever disengaging it. All you’d have to do is add a longer handle so it sticks below the valve to hit the sleeve.
I am about to make something similar to disengage the handle, your the first person to recommend that out all the comments. I bought all the materials yesterday. I think that's the safest way for the splitter. Thanks
I agree it’s the safest way plus you can adjust the length of your ram anytime without tools.
Yep I bought all thread so at any time in the future I can change split length by turning a few nuts
You like putting your hand near that bottom edge....youll learn
Would it be better to take space on the stop plate end?
Since I have a welder that is an option. Not sure of my welding abilities with 25 tons of pressure though. I'll look it over and see. Good idea
Get a fabricator in your area to cut you two square pieces of one plate with a bolt hole in it and add thickness to your wood stop or bottom plate. That upward jump is gonna give you problems at the blade bolt or the plate guide rails, IMHO. Have fun and be safe!
One inch plate
That's an option, but would give me fits when working in the vertical position. I'm working on a new idea to take all the stresses away. Thanks
2.5 seconds over 200 trips in a day is just over 8 minutes. Not saying it's not saving time but it isn't much.
A way back video here... back in the day before all the new high speed splitters you have now... I was hoping to see an engine mod to speed mine up as I'm still using htis model. :-)
This is the mod that worked the best
ua-cam.com/video/AYEl6JB_Sbg/v-deo.html
@@TKCL very cool!
Adjust your return detent so as not to require as much pressure
I almost immediately changed that design, I have a new one that's working much better. ua-cam.com/video/AYEl6JB_Sbg/v-deo.html
The "sending" pressure hose is labeled about 5,220 psi, the "return" pressure hose is labeled about 2,200 psi, so there isn't 25 tons of force on the return stroke. I don't know how much, but not as much.
Thanks for the info
Any amount of time you can save adds up and adds up.
It does, as long as I don't damage my equipment. I'm already playing with another design.
Interesting approach.....following 🪵🪓👍👏
I'm actually about to modify this design but accomplish the same task. I want to eliminate the pivot point and pressure.
The number one thing found in wood from our property, was bullets.
Very common no doubt
Andrew, also check out Donn DIY (Europe). See wood processor. He converted a small electric splitter to lift tree limbs, cut wood to length, & split it with multi- blade.
I have watched that episode, he makes good content.
See this video for my new design.
Have you considered putting the spacer at the other end?
I did not want anything on the bottom end because that would affect vertical splitting. Check this video out, I changed the design shortly after the video you just watched. ua-cam.com/video/AYEl6JB_Sbg/v-deo.html
Look at an Easton made log splitters you have a foot pedal and keep two hands on the wood
I have watched that model on Hometown acres. Well out of my price range for now.
7k + for an eastonmade. County line (Tractor supply) about 1k
thats is a lot quicker you could screw a piece on both sides up and down so when the splitter comes back it hits even and not just on the top regards scott
Good point and something to consider, I can probably upgrade that quickly. Thanks for watching
You are going to mess up the bolt holding the wedge on the cylinder, it's not designed to stop like that you can see the pressure being put on the cylinder when it hits the block of steel , go check out Chris from the wood yard , he had the same type of machine , his the bold hole got egg shaped and was breaking bolts every few day , good idea tho
Episode 77 you can see where he broke a bolt again , 500 facecords don't help I don't imagine lol
Yep I've actually watched that episode and why I had a little concern. I have a few more ideas I'll work on this week.
Your splitter is pretty much brand new , would be ashame to damage it this early in the game , just trying to help out
I know you are trying to help, thanks for the constructive criticism.
What engineers call a "time and motion study".
Won't work on a splitter like mine that the wedge and ram are reversed from yours. I suppose I could weld something to the sides of the beam, allowing clearance for my ram to slide past it on the beam, and then put something horizontal across those welded pcs, but for the most part what I did below gets me back to the splitter quick enough I can throw the auto return out fast enough it doesn't retract the full amount anyway.
What I did after many years of use was order a custom Cross valve.....now mine detents in forward as well as reverse.....meaning I can put a log in place, hit forward and do something else while it splits....I don't have to stand there holding my hand on the forward lever position. Log splitters will not come with this option, it's considered unsafe (your hand on the lever being the safety), and the guy I ordered my valve from specifically said "NOT for a wood splitter". But as long as you accept the risk (and I consider it minimal personally, but that is my decision to make), it does increase productivity quite a bit.
The other thing I did was build a large work table than the one on your machine. This give me a place to set the splits from the previous cycle so while the current cycle is splitting, I can be removing the first splits into a stack....you are doing the same, only on the backward stroke.
The next thing you could do to increase efficiency is move your cut rounds closer to the splitter. I use my tractor bucket to push the pile right up behind me so instead of taking a step or two to get a round, I simply turn and there it is. Required pushing the pile forward from time to time, but I consider that time in the seat my 'rest' period, take a sip of water, then get back off and return to splitting.
I always have my rounds close to the splitter, this was just for demonstration purposes. I have definitely found ways to be more efficient the more I split. I purchased some materials yesterday to make a contraption to trigger the handle on the return stroke, thus removing all pressure and pivot points from becoming future failures. A larger work table has been on my mind forever and is something I definitely desire. Thanks for the suggestions.
I have seen when people do things like that then eventually what will happen is the ram will either share the PIN for the wedge or it will break the ram off from the wedge bar I would be careful doing that.
See the video below, I changed the design immediately ua-cam.com/video/AYEl6JB_Sbg/v-deo.html
I dont think it is, but if that piston rod is threaded in to the splitter head. In time it could rip the threads out. Or in the case of a bolt thats a stress in a way it was not designed for in reverse travel.
Could last 30 years, or it could last 30 hours. Time will tell.
I scrapped that design next day, check out this video with my new safer design. ua-cam.com/video/AYEl6JB_Sbg/v-deo.html
What about a block on the bottom to bring the top of log closer to the start of the stroke.
I changed that design shortly after making the video. The block won't work because I split in the vertical position a lot too. Check out my new design ua-cam.com/video/AYEl6JB_Sbg/v-deo.html
What about adding a 2x4 or 2x6 flat under the hydraulic cylinder so it catches the stripper cleats at the bottom so when the wedge comes back it catches them by the weld instead of the top. This would put less pressure on them.
Definitely another idea! Ive received a lot of suggestions today, I'm going to think several over and try to improve the design.
I thought this was the pivot rod that you were going to showcase. I need to go find that video.
ua-cam.com/video/AYEl6JB_Sbg/v-deo.html there it is! Thanks for the support
Those splitters are terrible to run from my personal experience. My 60 ton splitter went down this season and I had to borrow my buddies huskee 20t. (Exactly same as yours)
Godly slow. And don’t have much power. I found the slide got jammed quite often with bark and dirt
The tiny wedge and push plate. I was constantly having to reposition the wood I’m used to a big 15x15 push plate. And a wedge that’s 12” tall. Just put the wood on and shove it thru
The trick to fast cycle time is just spend 140$ on a 16gpm pump
Instead of the factory 11 gpm pump it has
Performance built 32 tons cycle fast as shit. Especially for not being kinetic there super close in speed mine cycles in about 2.5 seconds or a hair under.
If the end of the ram is threaded at the wedge, there is a chance of pulling the threads out of the wedge and off of the ram. I have seen that happen on units that people have tried the same thing that you are trying. Good luck
It's bolted, no threads. I watched the video you are referring to, I'm changing my design tomorrow. I hope to have a successful design working and recorded by end of the week.
@@TKCL bingo, you hit the nail on the head. A pin, no threads.
I knew as soon as I watched your video you were going to get people referring you to that video where the guy used the cylinder stop blocks. As others have told you, there is absolutely no problem with those, but I still think your solution is as good or better, and can be even better still.
The problem the other guy had with his splitter cylinder was that the threaded end yoke was not properly tightened to clamp it to the threads. That threaded yoke design is used all the time in agricultural equipment. It's main use is to make a slight adjustment in retracted/extended pin-to-pin length when necessary. The yoke has a split in the threaded section that is used to clamp the threads in the yoke to the threads on the end of the rod. You loosen the bolts in the clamp to allow adjustments, but they need to be tightened again to firmly clamp the threads together. Clearly his was not or it would have never stripped those threads out. Those types of cylinders are used all of the time to lift or pull loads on the retract stroke.
Great idea man, love it! Might try it on mine as well. Random question, do you have any videos where you talk about your wood racks and how you built them? Seems pretty slick with the single beams!
Yes here are two videos ua-cam.com/video/gRe5l5lHr50/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/wYqHmLMqu_U/v-deo.html
I love your videos - but watching you split one piece at a time drives me crazy when you talk about efficiency splitting firewood. You can take a whole round 10-12” and split it once, but the sides back together then split it 2-3 more times by keeping it all together and in a few quick passes you’ll have 6-8 pieces. You can at least put back together the small chunks and double split them. That’ll save you more time than the 2 seconds on the splitter itself.
Just trying to help.
Keep it up and keep Em rolling....
I do that often with smaller pieces. The problem is I have OCD, maybe you have heard of it lol. That's why I don't have a 4 way ect. I like for my pieces to be uniform and even. Something I could definitely improve upon.
This is a bad idea, only because the splitter inherently wants to go back to neutral, had you had a thinner piece of steel tubing it would bend as the cycle is not finished, so you are forcing it to stop prematurely, this can't be good long term, best thing is to bring the bottom plate closer with wood, which will need occasional replacement.
Great machine I have the same one, great to use it vertically as well.
DO NOT use this method to shorten the cycle time you'll end up with serious damage to the end of the piston rod and it's connection to the back of the wedge.I fabricated an adjustable leaver that is moved when the wedge moves back to the desired position and kicks the operating leaver forward. With this there is no stress on any part of the machine .
You missed my other video that was made one day after this one. ua-cam.com/video/AYEl6JB_Sbg/v-deo.html
Consider putting the spacer on the anvil plate. Then your ram and retract stripper are not affected
That would work for horizontal splitting, not so much for vertical splitting. I built a mechanism yesterday that triggers the handle, eliminating all pressure and pivot points. Video out tomorrow.
@@TKCL you are correct. I did not think about vertical. The kickout lever is a great solution.
You will pull your cylinder out of your wedge. The threads will strip out like that eventually.
Years later zeros issues with the splitter, actually many commercial designs incorporate a stop block.
The reason I mention that I saw a UA-cam yesterday that was using sleeve over his cylinder rod 2 limit the return.. And he had pulled his threads out of his. Glad yours is working and did not have that happened.
I've been in talks with several splitter manufacturers, include some that are soon to be on the property. They all agree the pressures to kick out the detent are not enough to cause damage. We shall see.
@@TKCLSame thing I heard from my splitter manufacturer. They were not at all concerned about using the collars that clip around the shaft to limit stroke return.