You will have to show us the snow when you get it one thing for sure on your farmstead where your cows are looks amazing when snow has fallen. Loving the process of this manure spreader we are leaning something new every time. 👍😀😀
The gruff, unforgettable man that gave me a chance and signed me on as a Heavy Duty Apprentice many years ago, always liked to say “Patience, Persistence and a little bit of Snake oil” always works. 😆 Thanks Tom Cheers and thanks Dave
Hi Dave and Diane ☺ tappy tap tap wins the day on this one, along whith the hot spanner,lol, progress is good. Thanks for another interesting video mate, stay safe, best wishe's to you and Diane, Stuart and Megan UK.
Dave, That old manure spreader project looks like a lot of fun. Lot of detective work to figure out what's what and where it belongs. Kinda like the Sheep Wagon. Impressive casting repairs, I would have though they were pretty much ruined. There is an arc welding rod put out by "Muggy Weld" for casting repairs. I've seen UA-cam videos of it's use on exhaust manifolds, looks promising. Can build up the iron then machine back. As always, really enjoy your videos, especially now that we get two installments a week :) . You are a very interesting guy.
It never amazes how old machines got the least amount of proper maintenance and repairs yet they kept on using them and that they worked as long as they did. How that wheel hub made it that long with only a set screw vs. the key it was designed to use !
As a young man I was told to use candlewax rather than release oils/fluid. candle wax thins and creeps under heat while the release oils tend to just burn off. Can't say I've done it a lot, seldom have a candle to hand but seemed to work well with moderate heating.
I have removed stuck sprockets from a shaft without using a wheel puller. The set screw for the sprocket key is replaced with a grease zerk. The flex tube of the grease gun is cleared with an air hose. Penetrating oil is put into the hose and connected to the grease gun. The oil, followed by grease will generate 5000 PSI and lube the rust between the sprocket and shaft. Have not needed to "inject the oil" twice.
I do not think there is any other quality so essential to success of any kind as the quality of perseverance. It overcomes almost everything, even nature. (John D. Rockefeller)
Once again I have learned over time watching you that holding ones tong on how something should be done, a trick or a step is best until the end then usually no comment is necessary
WD-40, PB Blaster and even regular engine oil are fantastic. but one thing I learned from an old machinist who really didn't want to work that hard was CANDLE WAX... get it hot, drip some wax on it... get a cup of coffee and then come back to tap it off or twist it out. Same amount of time, a lot less effort. It only took me 30 years to learn that the old way was the best one... I know you've got a lot more time than me on projects like this one, but maybe a little something to think about there.
As well as heating the hub, you could try shrinking the shaft simultaneously with dry ice. I get some from my vet when I need it, it’s used to artificially inseminate cattle. All you is a few thou clearance and off she comes. It’s good for broken studs in blind holes too.
My Dad was born in 1927 and started work as a blacksmith. One day he was told to teach a married guy the trade, but then found out this guy was earning more than him, so he quit and became a cop. One thing he told me that I will never forget was when one day, while fixing my bicycle, I got mad because I couldn't fix it. He said it was a dead thing and didn't have a will of its own. The only way of fixing it was with patience, perseverance and savvy. I never got mad at a 'dead thing' again. I can see you follow the same philosophy. My son-in-law, who's a boiler maker, also threw things around and got mad. My daughter must've told him the dead thing bit, because he's stopped doing it. We have a saying when facing a workshop problem, 'It doesn't have a mother or a father, so we are going to overcome!'
Sorry for another comment, "I love what you do" My dad got a call in the 1980s from a livestock food provider that was having problems with his animal food milling machine on the phone call the man held his phone near the machine and said to my dad "what do you think is wrong" and my dad said with a straight face :-) "I do not know BUT it sounds expensive" later he went and repaired it it was a broken bearing. Back in the day 1980s industrial NorthWest GB / UK we just got things done with virtually no H&S no masks no eye protection and a bucket of water just in case things went wrong. And I kid you not, no eye protection just a fridge to store lidocaine and tweezers to pull out steel splinter from your eye ???? I started working for my dad in the 1970s when I was 10y and I am still here to tell the stories... Drilling 1 inch holes in factory chimney bands with just centre punch on a line shaft radial arm drill with just a peg in the radial arm be and a 30 gallon oil drum support for the 6 ft x 3 inch x 1/2 inch steel band and no clamps/ no pilot hole just the peg to stop the rotation. There was so much shaft wobble on the 100y radial arm drill that if we used clamps something would have broken. changing speed on the drill was done by forcing the belt over to another pully with a broom handle. When you look back how they must have worked around 1900 it makes me feel amazed. Now I work on very old sewing machines and I am astounded by the precision in the 1880s Please keep producing your excellent content it makes me smile with joy.
Have you tried freeze spray to help with the heat? Heat the whole thing - cog and shaft, then protect the cog and spray the shaft with freeze spray...the differential temperature should help with the separation. Always great to watch you work.
I heard you talk about 20 and 30° below, and thought you surely must mean that it was 20°F, but I just checked the weather for Joliet and it's an incredible -30°C (-22°F). That's insane! It would be a cold day in Antarctica at that temperature. According to our TV news here in New Zealand, North America is suffering record lows, which is a bit of a worry. I hope you can keep safe and warm, and I wish you all the very best.
Yes worked many rusted sprockets, they are a test of patience. Dave if you have any more to remove try getting a rosebud tip for your torch. It works better when you just need heat..
Hi Dave. Hi from Western Australia🇦🇺. The second sprocket will be about a .002" interference fit on the shaft that's why there's no set screw. Great vid's, just keep'em coming. 👍👍👍
Always enjoy your restoration projects!! I dug a needle scaler out of the medal dumpster at work. It was missing the air coupling. "Could that be all that's wrong with it?!" I was hoping.... Pushed the trigger. Just a hiss of air leaking. Well, I started attempting to take it apart. Threads wouldn't budge! I went through several heating cycles and penetrating oil. No joy! I put ut aside. Fast forward several months. I got back on it. I was thinking about making a custom wrench and hold the other end in a vice. But before I started on the wrench, I thought I'd give it one last attempt with a pipe wrench and vice. Long extension on the pipe wrench, I started pushing down. It moved easily! SHOCKING! And exciting! Got it apart. Everything was stuck solid! Got it cleaned up and functional! I'll use it on my other rusty projects.
Funny, I have that exact brass valve stem that I use as a drift. It was salvaged from a boiler room steam valve, used in an old hospital with all boiler heating and cooling systems.
Something I have done, heat everything up then use 'freeze spray' on center shaft (although it works best if there is a center bore) I remember my father, probably 55 years ago, doing a forged steel part with a shaft seized , he literally threw it in bonfire, waited until fire died down took it out while still red hot and dropped it in a bucket of water. Parts literally 'fell apart' He told me something about steel expanding with rust then heat and sudden cooling 'crushing' rust flakes into powder (he was a manual worker but grew up doing 'repairs' for his father) I was totally astounded. He did tell me never to try it with cast iron but any type of forged iron or steel was 'fine'. I ended up being a motorcycle mechanic working on what he called 'jap crap' until just a few years ago and used method more than once or twice working on various machinery. (spent 8 years working on construction equipment) Still not sure what happens to cast iron if you drop it in water from (dull) red heat? (not much cast iron on import motorcycles from mid 1960's to 2011) I think it would crack but still never tried it to find out.
I've found that stainless steel wool in vinegar gives a much greyer stain than 'metal filings'. I've used it to match fence picket repairs to a weathered grey. Love your work!
You need some added tannin to your vinegar/iron mix to make up for the lack of tannin in the wood you're using to get the iron tannate, a stable black color, instead of the rust red iron (II) oxide. You can buy tannic acid, or make your own. I'm usually trying to go the other way--remove the black iron tannate stains by using oxalic acid solution on antique oak furniture that has suffered water damage.
Hi Dave, I believe that I have mentioned it to you before but I'll say it again. When you've heated your part up, penetrating oil is too light and burns/dries up. You need something like 30w oil so that it can make it down between the cracks but not burn away.
When removing a bolt from a nut or a shaft from a sprocket. If you can cool the bolt or the shaft and heat the nut or sprocket, it helps. Rubbing dry ice on the shaft or bolt after heating the nut will shrink the shaft
Dave, I saw a guy make a mandril out of a bolt, and a dowel covered in some bicycle inner tube, which he chucked up in a hand drill, and used to drive a small belt sander belt, turned inside out, to clean rusty shafting, which would help with removing the other cogs and stuff, not having to drive it off over rusted up shafting.
Again Dave, Really happy to see another video on this project. This is such a beautiful project and I can see what an incredible finished piece this is going to be. All the iron and wood together is gorgeous. Thanks for the bonus video.
Interesting to see removing the wheel 12:53 in the 1980s with my dad we would have cut the wheel off either side of the shaft and burned out the slug of shaft with Oxy Acetylene and welded the shaft back together. we worked on a lot of cotton weaving looms and motor pullies. My granddad back in the 1930 bought a mobile Murex welding plant so that he could repair sheared electric motor shafts in situ to save dismantling very large electrical 3 phase motors.
Hi Dave, I just love. the resto on the manure wagon, love a good challenge. I've been aa equipment mechanic all my life, learned from my dad. I'm now 80yrs. When it came to removing rust frozen parts we used heat and paraffin, not bees wax. Paraffin is made from petroleum. Heat the metal very hot and apply the wax when the metal cools enough so the wax does not flame up. You may have to repeat many times plus using a hammer. Careful using a air hammer, that works very well in a lot of cases but I wouldn't use the air hammer on those cast pieces and if you are going to invest in one try not to purchase one made in China. Remember, Made By Americans In American.
I've seen a few tried and true methods mentioned here. I just wanted to offer another to try, Wax. When you heat the metal, touch a candle to it. It flows in and acts as a lubricant. Smoke is a little more pleasant also. Keep up the fine work.
Hello Dave… I was watching “Below the Plains” and he was digging out some fine bottles and stuff out of a privy from a hotel from around 1900. I then thought of your place. Have there always been indoor plumbing in your old apartment building? Possibly a privy out back? Great channel and still wanting to come out to Montana sometime to help sweep up.😁 Hellos to Diane.
I believe this is the most sophisticated machine you have recorded on UA-cam. You had that horse-drawn weed wacker, but this one seems to have more interacting parts. Looking forward to its completion.
After an estate sale I was hirerd to help move 2 of those that are a lot newer and dismantle three other's for there parts they have not changed very much.
As I boy, when I exhibited what you call "perseverance," my folks said I was being stubborn. But there's something to be said for a never-say-die attitude. Well done, Dave!
I wonder if, in rebuilding that chain drive mechanism, the pinion gear was reversed. If the end of the pinion with the set screw were on the side toward the body, the chain would not rub on that little protrusion.
Dave, you might want to try using 50% aceatone and 50% transmission fluid mixture for busting rusty bolts ect. loose. it has been used for a long time. Iit works GREAT. Love the progress your making so far !!!
Nothing beats a smoke wrench. Like Dave said it literally burns the rust out. That's something no penetrant can do. When ferrous metal oxidizes it expands so just a lubricant is not going to help. The extra volume of material has to go. Then there's the breaking effect of differential heating. There's a point when penetrants alone break parts free but once you're past that you have to use heat. Maybe 100 years ago a penetrant alone would have done it but not now.
@@jimradz6583 if you're using a torch you already have the flammable side of things covered then. If you're worried about acetone don't use oxy-acetylene torches. Because the acetylene tank is full of acetone. The gas is dissolved in the liquid. Just how it's done. Acetylene is a high explosive at high pressure. So dissolving it in acetone is just safer. Not to say it's terribly safe then, but safer nonetheless.
Sir , I enjoy your video . One other way to get stuck parts is to heat and melt wax. Some times it will flow better. Do to watching I am going to rebuild a Doctor Buggy.
-26F in Great Falls this morning (Friday 1/12)! Supposed to be even colder tonight. I think back to using manure spreader in the 60's. What a mess you could make with one of those!
That is where a pneumatic hammer might be helpful. A number of car mechanics in my area of the rust belt use them on cars to free rusted brakes and such. The rapid impacts seem to really do the trick, particularly combined with fire wrench application.
Sometimes a Rose Bud tip will do a better job of flame control. Perhaps that shaft should be grooved to allow grease to migrate along it in that bushing. There are many ways to do something. Glad you got the Shaft and gears separated.
Hi Dave it’s so nice you got the music low and I can hear what you are doing ,,,You doing great job Dave ,I like watching you work as a handy man my self I appreciate your crafts Happy New year and keep the videos coming cheers from Australia mate 🙏❤️😁😁👍🦘🇦🇺🇺🇸
I had a neighbor, years ago, who was an old tractor mechanic, who once told me the best thing to us to free up a rusted on bolt, or whatever, was to heat and melt a wax candle into it.
Gentle persuasion……. Amazing how oxidized metal takes up so much more space in such a situation. Your blacksmith experience with cast pulley rusted onto a steel shaft is obvious. Many today would not of had the patience to get this off without breaking the pulley. So satisfying once it starts to move….. Then the tricky part is keeping it moving without galling. Great work !!!!
While you were tapping the larger cog along the axis of the shaft, I wondered whether some light taps on the spokes could help rotate the sprocket a little and help break the rust.
1970s+ Blacksmith shop in Lancashire UK reliving what we did and what you are doing is so nice. My other relative I found in 2010 was a wheelwright, my grandad sold him a wheel rim but welder. One job my dad did was make sizzling cast steel platters for a chef and he polished the rough oval castings and delivered them to the sad chef who said "what have you done" fortunately my dad took them back and shoved them in the forge to blacken them ;-)) and everyone was happy. Yep we had a steak meal cooked by him a few weeks later. I am so glad you still do this work. BTW I have a full set of Oxy Acetylene bottles with all welding and cutting gear and valves. Just never used it since I brought it to where I live in 1992; I wanted to use it just never needed to use it, including the "Gas Economiser" valve cut off. My day job was to service and test all gas equipment in a factory that made "instantaneous water heaters" and "gas fires" The last thing I gas welded was an exhaust for a pulsejet engine back in 1980, it was a weld that looked like bird muck and chewing gum ;-))
Like another poster stated with these stuck pulleys, gears or bearings. I usually use emery paper and files to remove rust and burrs on either side of the shaft holding the stuck part. That way the worse part is the rusted shaft area under the part. And heat always seems to work in the end.
Persistence works. I am thinking a wheel puller would have worked too. @LAOL is a channel where a father and son work on antique tractors. There ability to create wheel pullers and such is pretty interesting. Even you might learn a thing or two.
You will have to show us the snow when you get it one thing for sure on your farmstead where your cows are looks amazing when snow has fallen. Loving the process of this manure spreader we are leaning something new every time. 👍😀😀
The gruff, unforgettable man that gave me a chance and signed me on as a Heavy Duty Apprentice many years ago, always liked to say
“Patience, Persistence and a little bit of Snake oil”
always works. 😆
Thanks Tom
Cheers and thanks Dave
Hi Dave and Diane ☺ tappy tap tap wins the day on this one, along whith the hot spanner,lol, progress is good. Thanks for another interesting video mate, stay safe, best wishe's to you and Diane, Stuart and Megan UK.
So much fun watching this! Oh yea! Thanks so much Dave. ~ Just so much fun. 〰✨🌲👍🌲✨〰
Dave, That old manure spreader project looks like a lot of fun. Lot of detective work to figure out what's what and where it belongs. Kinda like the Sheep Wagon. Impressive casting repairs, I would have though they were pretty much ruined. There is an arc welding rod put out by "Muggy Weld" for casting repairs. I've seen UA-cam videos of it's use on exhaust manifolds, looks promising. Can build up the iron then machine back. As always, really enjoy your videos, especially now that we get two installments a week :) . You are a very interesting guy.
It never amazes how old machines got the least amount of proper maintenance and repairs yet they kept on using them and that they worked as long as they did. How that wheel hub made it that long with only a set screw vs. the key it was designed to use !
Heat and PB Blaster works miracles! That'd be so hard trying to figure out the dimensions of the wood with so much deterioration. Thanks!
As a young man I was told to use candlewax rather than release oils/fluid. candle wax thins and creeps under heat while the release oils tend to just burn off. Can't say I've done it a lot, seldom have a candle to hand but seemed to work well with moderate heating.
I have removed stuck sprockets from a shaft without using a wheel puller. The set screw for the sprocket key is replaced with a grease zerk. The flex tube of the grease gun is cleared with an air hose. Penetrating oil is put into the hose and connected to the grease gun. The oil, followed by grease will generate 5000 PSI and lube the rust between the sprocket and shaft. Have not needed to "inject the oil" twice.
I do not think there is any other quality so essential to success of any kind as the quality of perseverance. It overcomes almost everything, even nature. (John D. Rockefeller)
All I can say sir is that you have the patience of Job. Well done.
Boy howdy! That is some amazing work and perseverance! Heat/tapping repeat. Heat/tapping repeat. Heat/tapping repeat. VICTORY 🎉❤😊
Still rockin that beautiful custom vest.
Great repurposing of an old gate valve stem into a brass drift. Love it Dave.
Once again I have learned over time watching you that holding ones tong on how something should be done, a trick or a step is best until the end then usually no comment is necessary
Dave, you need a rose bud tip for your torch set. Lots of heat in a short time
WD-40, PB Blaster and even regular engine oil are fantastic. but one thing I learned from an old machinist who really didn't want to work that hard was CANDLE WAX... get it hot, drip some wax on it... get a cup of coffee and then come back to tap it off or twist it out. Same amount of time, a lot less effort. It only took me 30 years to learn that the old way was the best one... I know you've got a lot more time than me on projects like this one, but maybe a little something to think about there.
Dave said he's going to try it.
That casting certainly drilled and tapped nicely
As well as heating the hub, you could try shrinking the shaft simultaneously with dry ice. I get some from my vet when I need it, it’s used to artificially inseminate cattle. All you is a few thou clearance and off she comes. It’s good for broken studs in blind holes too.
My Dad was born in 1927 and started work as a blacksmith. One day he was told to teach a married guy the trade, but then found out this guy was earning more than him, so he quit and became a cop. One thing he told me that I will never forget was when one day, while fixing my bicycle, I got mad because I couldn't fix it. He said it was a dead thing and didn't have a will of its own. The only way of fixing it was with patience, perseverance and savvy. I never got mad at a 'dead thing' again. I can see you follow the same philosophy. My son-in-law, who's a boiler maker, also threw things around and got mad. My daughter must've told him the dead thing bit, because he's stopped doing it. We have a saying when facing a workshop problem, 'It doesn't have a mother or a father, so we are going to overcome!'
The " little blue wrench" has worked for me several times also.....and a good penetrating oil....and some patience works well
Sorry for another comment, "I love what you do" My dad got a call in the 1980s from a livestock food provider that was having problems with his animal food milling machine on the phone call the man held his phone near the machine and said to my dad "what do you think is wrong" and my dad said with a straight face :-) "I do not know BUT it sounds expensive" later he went and repaired it it was a broken bearing. Back in the day 1980s industrial NorthWest GB / UK we just got things done with virtually no H&S no masks no eye protection and a bucket of water just in case things went wrong.
And I kid you not, no eye protection just a fridge to store lidocaine and tweezers to pull out steel splinter from your eye ???? I started working for my dad in the 1970s when I was 10y and I am still here to tell the stories... Drilling 1 inch holes in factory chimney bands with just centre punch on a line shaft radial arm drill with just a peg in the radial arm be and a 30 gallon oil drum support for the 6 ft x 3 inch x 1/2 inch steel band and no clamps/ no pilot hole just the peg to stop the rotation. There was so much shaft wobble on the 100y radial arm drill that if we used clamps something would have broken. changing speed on the drill was done by forcing the belt over to another pully with a broom handle.
When you look back how they must have worked around 1900 it makes me feel amazed. Now I work on very old sewing machines and I am astounded by the precision in the 1880s
Please keep producing your excellent content it makes me smile with joy.
Have you tried freeze spray to help with the heat? Heat the whole thing - cog and shaft, then protect the cog and spray the shaft with freeze spray...the differential temperature should help with the separation.
Always great to watch you work.
This just a suggestion. When heating to remove rusted on parts, instead of penetrating oil try bee's wax. I have seen it work many times.
I heard you talk about 20 and 30° below, and thought you surely must mean that it was 20°F, but I just checked the weather for Joliet and it's an incredible -30°C (-22°F). That's insane! It would be a cold day in Antarctica at that temperature. According to our TV news here in New Zealand, North America is suffering record lows, which is a bit of a worry. I hope you can keep safe and warm, and I wish you all the very best.
The cooling-down phase is all important to this process in helping break down the rust and any crud inside.
Yes worked many rusted sprockets, they are a test of patience. Dave if you have any more to remove
try getting a rosebud tip for your torch. It works better when you just need heat..
Dry Ice works great on the shaft. Shrinks it! Heat expands. Cold shrinks. 👍
Dave if you warm the outside part and quick freeze the shaft the stuff separates pretty easy without having to hit or file it.
Thank you for all the hard work you put into your projects. May GOD bless.
The look on Dave's face when he says "he gets to play" with his manure spreader is PRICELESS! 😁😁😁
Hi Dave. Hi from Western Australia🇦🇺. The second sprocket will be about a .002" interference fit on the shaft that's why there's no set screw. Great vid's, just keep'em coming. 👍👍👍
That is some great work preserving the hard parts. I look forward to each installment.
Always enjoy your restoration projects!!
I dug a needle scaler out of the medal dumpster at work. It was missing the air coupling.
"Could that be all that's wrong with it?!" I was hoping....
Pushed the trigger. Just a hiss of air leaking.
Well, I started attempting to take it apart. Threads wouldn't budge! I went through several heating cycles and penetrating oil. No joy! I put ut aside.
Fast forward several months. I got back on it. I was thinking about making a custom wrench and hold the other end in a vice. But before I started on the wrench, I thought I'd give it one last attempt with a pipe wrench and vice. Long extension on the pipe wrench, I started pushing down. It moved easily! SHOCKING! And exciting!
Got it apart. Everything was stuck solid! Got it cleaned up and functional! I'll use it on my other rusty projects.
Funny, I have that exact brass valve stem that I use as a drift. It was salvaged from a boiler room steam valve, used in an old hospital with all boiler heating and cooling systems.
Ah that's what it is! thx
Good to see your experience and wisdom working to get things done. Looking forward to your aging new aging process. Have fun.
Stay safe and warm. 🇺🇸👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻✅✅✅✅✅⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️🫵🏼
Something I have done, heat everything up then use 'freeze spray' on center shaft (although it works best if there is a center bore)
I remember my father, probably 55 years ago, doing a forged steel part with a shaft seized , he literally threw it in bonfire, waited until fire died down took it out while still red hot and dropped it in a bucket of water.
Parts literally 'fell apart'
He told me something about steel expanding with rust then heat and sudden cooling 'crushing' rust flakes into powder (he was a manual worker but grew up doing 'repairs' for his father)
I was totally astounded.
He did tell me never to try it with cast iron but any type of forged iron or steel was 'fine'.
I ended up being a motorcycle mechanic working on what he called 'jap crap' until just a few years ago and used method more than once or twice working on various machinery. (spent 8 years working on construction equipment)
Still not sure what happens to cast iron if you drop it in water from (dull) red heat? (not much cast iron on import motorcycles from mid 1960's to 2011)
I think it would crack but still never tried it to find out.
I've found that stainless steel wool in vinegar gives a much greyer stain than 'metal filings'. I've used it to match fence picket repairs to a weathered grey. Love your work!
You need some added tannin to your vinegar/iron mix to make up for the lack of tannin in the wood you're using to get the iron tannate, a stable black color, instead of the rust red iron (II) oxide. You can buy tannic acid, or make your own. I'm usually trying to go the other way--remove the black iron tannate stains by using oxalic acid solution on antique oak furniture that has suffered water damage.
Hi Dave, I believe that I have mentioned it to you before but I'll say it again. When you've heated your part up, penetrating oil is too light and burns/dries up. You need something like 30w oil so that it can make it down between the cracks but not burn away.
Ya learn somethin new every day. And your method of rusted metal I’ll keep in mind next time I’m in a situation with rusted parts. Thank You
Under the category of "satisfying accomplishments": breaking loose a stuck fitting. We know how good it feels to win.
Dave says, "Yep.#
This is a really interesting project. I look forward to the next installments.
When removing a bolt from a nut or a shaft from a sprocket. If you can cool the bolt or the shaft and heat the nut or sprocket, it helps. Rubbing dry ice on the shaft or bolt after heating the nut will shrink the shaft
Patience come with age when dealing with rusty attachments. The same is true with grandchildren. :-)
Dave, I saw a guy make a mandril out of a bolt, and a dowel covered in some bicycle inner tube, which he chucked up in a hand drill, and used to drive a small belt sander belt, turned inside out, to clean rusty shafting, which would help with removing the other cogs and stuff, not having to drive it off over rusted up shafting.
Again Dave, Really happy to see another video on this project. This is such a beautiful project and I can see what an incredible finished piece this is going to be. All the iron and wood together is gorgeous. Thanks for the bonus video.
Interesting to see removing the wheel 12:53 in the 1980s with my dad we would have cut the wheel off either side of the shaft and burned out the slug of shaft with Oxy Acetylene and welded the shaft back together. we worked on a lot of cotton weaving looms and motor pullies. My granddad back in the 1930 bought a mobile Murex welding plant so that he could repair sheared electric motor shafts in situ to save dismantling very large electrical 3 phase motors.
Evening Dave and Diane, it will soon be summer and Strawberry season again 😊. Thanks for the videos, there much appreciated. Regards Richard 🇬🇧
We all cheered when the sprockets broke lose!
Hi Dave, I just love. the resto on the manure wagon, love a good challenge. I've been aa equipment mechanic all my life, learned from my dad. I'm now 80yrs. When it came to removing rust frozen parts we used heat and paraffin, not bees wax. Paraffin is made from petroleum. Heat the metal very hot and apply the wax when the metal cools enough so the wax does not flame up. You may have to repeat many times plus using a hammer. Careful using a air hammer, that works very well in a lot of cases but I wouldn't use the air hammer on those cast pieces and if you are going to invest in one try not to purchase one made in China. Remember, Made By Americans In American.
aLWAYS a pleasure to WARCH YOUY CHANNEL
It's satisfying to see something come together
I've seen a few tried and true methods mentioned here. I just wanted to offer another to try, Wax. When you heat the metal, touch a candle to it. It flows in and acts as a lubricant. Smoke is a little more pleasant also. Keep up the fine work.
Wax has been proven many times to be an old wives tale. But hey if it works for you then have at it.
We used to call a cutting torch the "Hot Wrench".
smoke wrench
The red spanner
The blue tipped wrench
Hello Dave… I was watching “Below the Plains” and he was digging out some fine bottles and stuff out of a privy from a hotel from around 1900. I then thought of your place. Have there always been indoor plumbing in your old apartment building? Possibly a privy out back?
Great channel and still wanting to come out to Montana sometime to help sweep up.😁
Hellos to Diane.
I believe this is the most sophisticated machine you have recorded on UA-cam. You had that horse-drawn weed wacker, but this one seems to have more interacting parts. Looking forward to its completion.
Perseverance is right. Thank you sir! This is my favorite “show” of the week. Well Tuesday as well.
Dave, a chisel hammer with a blunt drift will give it a thousand light hits a minute without damaging, works great 👍
Always works most of the time and persistence pays off again. It's coming right along. Looking great around there. Fred.
Man I enjoy seeing you work! I make suggestions, and next thing I know you're doing them. I wish you success with this project.
After an estate sale I was hirerd to help move 2 of those that are a lot newer and dismantle three other's for there parts they have not changed very much.
I've used Free All penetrating oil and Kroil oil both are excellent for rusted stuck parts, have found it better than PB blaster.
That large brass screw you use as a chisel looks like a bronze screw shaft from a os&y valve or just a street water valve. Probably a 6or 8”.
As I boy, when I exhibited what you call "perseverance," my folks said I was being stubborn.
But there's something to be said for a never-say-die attitude. Well done, Dave!
Once again thanks for the video.
You have remarkable patience to work at getting these off I probably would have put a puller on it and broke something. Thanks for your videos!
Fantastic job n that stud replacement!
I wonder if, in rebuilding that chain drive mechanism, the pinion gear was reversed. If the end of the pinion with the set screw were on the side toward the body, the chain would not rub on that little protrusion.
Little hint - if you chamfer the edge of the hole before tapping, the tap starts easier and aligns better. Learned this in a jobshop I worked in.
Great project
I think you vaporized the key! 👍😁👍
Persistence. We will never see Dave give up.
Dave, you might want to try using 50% aceatone and 50% transmission fluid mixture for busting rusty bolts ect. loose. it has been used for a long time. Iit works GREAT. Love the progress your making so far !!!
The 50/50 Red Devil. That's some Hot stuff.
Watched a couple of videos on UA-cam working on stuck motors. That was the mixture he used to release stuck pistons. Would let set 10-15 days
Nothing beats a smoke wrench. Like Dave said it literally burns the rust out. That's something no penetrant can do. When ferrous metal oxidizes it expands so just a lubricant is not going to help. The extra volume of material has to go. Then there's the breaking effect of differential heating. There's a point when penetrants alone break parts free but once you're past that you have to use heat. Maybe 100 years ago a penetrant alone would have done it but not now.
BE CAREFUL ACETONE IS FLAMMABLE 🔥🔥
@@jimradz6583 if you're using a torch you already have the flammable side of things covered then. If you're worried about acetone don't use oxy-acetylene torches. Because the acetylene tank is full of acetone. The gas is dissolved in the liquid. Just how it's done. Acetylene is a high explosive at high pressure. So dissolving it in acetone is just safer. Not to say it's terribly safe then, but safer nonetheless.
My first thought was to use Kroil instead of Blaster, but my experience has shown Kroil is best for small parts, and Blaster for big parts.
I can smell the Blaster as it vaporizes, and the rust burns!!
Sir , I enjoy your video . One other way to get stuck parts is to heat and melt wax. Some times it will flow better.
Do to watching I am going to rebuild a Doctor Buggy.
-26F in Great Falls this morning (Friday 1/12)! Supposed to be even colder tonight. I think back to using manure spreader in the 60's. What a mess you could make with one of those!
Where I am in Australia it will get up to 32 C or 89.6 F today, shorts and tee shirts weather.
The round area with the Groove in it is designed to keep the chain In the correct position.
That is where a pneumatic hammer might be helpful. A number of car mechanics in my area of the rust belt use them on cars to free rusted brakes and such. The rapid impacts seem to really do the trick, particularly combined with fire wrench application.
Sometimes a Rose Bud tip will do a better job of flame control. Perhaps that shaft should be grooved to allow grease to migrate along it in that bushing. There are many ways to do something. Glad you got the Shaft and gears separated.
First time I’ve seen you use Locktite. I’ve wondered in the past about that.
great job you got it loose👍👍👍 be watching for next time thanks Dave
Hi Dave it’s so nice you got the music low and I can hear what you are doing ,,,You doing great job Dave ,I like watching you work as a handy man my self I appreciate your crafts Happy New year and keep the videos coming cheers from Australia mate 🙏❤️😁😁👍🦘🇦🇺🇺🇸
Always great to see the new Eagle Grip locking pliers in use too! 👍😎👍
Amazing skill.
64 yrs old & I still have so much to learn.
I had a neighbor, years ago, who was an old tractor mechanic, who once told me the best thing to us to free up a rusted on bolt, or whatever, was to heat and melt a wax candle into it.
Gentle persuasion…….
Amazing how oxidized metal takes up so much more space in such a situation.
Your blacksmith experience with cast pulley rusted onto a steel shaft is obvious.
Many today would not of had the patience to get this off without breaking the pulley.
So satisfying once it starts to move…..
Then the tricky part is keeping it moving without galling.
Great work !!!!
While you were tapping the larger cog along the axis of the shaft, I wondered whether some light taps on the spokes could help rotate the sprocket a little and help break the rust.
1970s+ Blacksmith shop in Lancashire UK reliving what we did and what you are doing is so nice. My other relative I found in 2010 was a wheelwright, my grandad sold him a wheel rim but welder.
One job my dad did was make sizzling cast steel platters for a chef and he polished the rough oval castings and delivered them to the sad chef who said "what have you done" fortunately my dad took them back and shoved them in the forge to blacken them ;-)) and everyone was happy. Yep we had a steak meal cooked by him a few weeks later.
I am so glad you still do this work.
BTW I have a full set of Oxy Acetylene bottles with all welding and cutting gear and valves. Just never used it since I brought it to where I live in 1992; I wanted to use it just never needed to use it, including the "Gas Economiser" valve cut off. My day job was to service and test all gas equipment in a factory that made "instantaneous water heaters" and "gas fires"
The last thing I gas welded was an exhaust for a pulsejet engine back in 1980, it was a weld that looked like bird muck and chewing gum ;-))
Another great video showcasing your knowledge, skills and abilities to see a problem and find a solution to them.
Dave never disappoints. Hi Dianne 😊
Like another poster stated with these stuck pulleys, gears or bearings.
I usually use emery paper and files to remove rust and burrs on either side of the shaft holding the stuck part.
That way the worse part is the rusted shaft area under the part.
And heat always seems to work in the end.
Persistence works. I am thinking a wheel puller would have worked too. @LAOL is a channel where a father and son work on antique tractors. There ability to create wheel pullers and such is pretty interesting. Even you might learn a thing or two.
A wheel puller would have just snapped those wheels. They were too far gone to just be pulled.
Always interesting.
Another fine demonstration 👍🇬🇧
A battery Makita tool you'll find very handy is their multi-tool. It's a very safe. it's handy and effective; at blade changing and cutting anything.
The first thing I aways do is make any exposed shaft shine.
Vise grips as handles.
I'll remember that trick!
Thanks I learn a lot