Many people have asked me about details on which parts are optimal to use, so I decided to make a detailed parts list! :) Low-budget components: - 2x Motors: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_oDdg3j9 * (2X, meh quality but functional, premium variant below recommended if possible) - 2x ESCs: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_mtAUIlA * (2X, not waterproof, additional XT60 plug to connect to battery needed, select “40A”) - 1x Servo: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_mqXyPUC * (not waterproof, metal gear) - 1x Transmitter: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_EjQzWav * (basic, simple to set up, independent control of both motors not possible, select “X6 X6FG w Gyro”) - 1x+ 4S Battery: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_Euz1Smh * (select “XT60 Plug”, multiple batteries recommended) - 2x 3’’ Propellers: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_Euv4zFJ * Premium components: - 2x Motors: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_EygXo3b * (2X, select “2680kv”) - 2x ESCs: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_oCwM1fz * (2X, waterproof, select “40A with XT60”) - 1x Servo: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_opjoxN1 * (waterproof, plastic gear) OR: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_Ezax3LX * (not waterproof, metal gear) - 1x Transmitter: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_EIqfzH3 * (extremely versatile, independent control of both motors possible, can connect to multiple models, select “ELRS ER3C-I 5000“) - 1x+ 4S Battery: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_Euz1Smh * (select “XT60 Plug”, multiple batteries recommended) - 2x 3’’ Propellers: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_Euv4zFJ * LiPo Battery charger, if needed: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_EJFbyBF * STL files for 3D printing: - Hovercraft: www.printables.com/model/333283-simple-brushless-rc-sport-hovercraft - My steering rudder: www.printables.com/model/706987 (*Affiliate links, I receive a small commission at no extra cost to you) If you have anymore questions about the build please ask me in the comments on this video or on my discord server: discord.gg/SzXRKcbhJp
I remember when I built one in highschool (over 20 years ago) I also pretty quickly started destroying my rudders and rudder servos. I solved this similarly to your M3 rods with a bent hoop of thin fiberglass rod around the area where the rudders moved (twin rudder). So long ago of course different stuff was available. My RC hovercraft was about 50x30cm, mainly styrofoam and balsa, brushed DC motors and 2-bladed props, NiMH batteries, 7 minutes flight time. What I found really made a difference in how controlable it was were double hinged rudders. Kinda like the flaps on an airliner the rudders bent in more places. They had one hinge connecting them to the shroud around the prop and then a second one in the middle of the rudder. A simple linkage made it so that when the servo moved the leading half of the rudder 45° the trailing half was almost 90°. This much less blocked the flow of air from the prop and made thrust vectoring way better.
This is excellent! When I built my first and only hovercraft in 1967, I would have killed for electric motors and r/c controls like this. And the idea of 3D printing was over 30 years in the future! Mine was crudely constructed of balsa wood, the lift was from a 0.98cc Davies-Charlton Spitfire model aircraft engine, the horizontal drive was Jetex solid fuel motor. No remote control, it had a short but happy and noisy life bouncing off the walls of the school gym. No video cameras on phones back then so I have nothing to show. Maybe it's time for me to spend my kids' inheritance on some gear like a 3d printer, remote controls and all the goodies I couldn't afford or even dream of back then. Whooppee!
That's true, might have to try that once it gets warmer! I don't drive my rc boats unless the water is warm enough to swim in and retrieve the boat if something goes wrong.
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Brings back memories when I was a child , what 40 years ago? I had a gas powered hovercraft. I’m thinking it had a Cox .049 engine. It wasn’t RC either lol. But it was fun.
You should get rid of the rudder and upgrade it with side facing rotors and even ones for breaking maybe. You will get insane control over that thing in 2 dimensions. Even go sideways and backwards. Rudder technology is ancient you can make a really new cool modern hovercraft design with tech of today as ESC's and motors have really become small, powerful and cheap.
That's a very interesting idea, but it would make the whole thing more complicated, more expensive and also heavier. Might be something worth trying out in another video though! I think just using a bidirectional ESC for the forward-facing motor would already give me the ability to go backwards
@@conorstewart2214 I'm using a BLHeli ESC for the forward-facing motor, so I just have to reprogram it to be bidirectional. The issue is, it's not connected to a flight controller or any kind of microcontroller so I can't just connect it to my pc and change the settings, like on my fpv drones
@@conorstewart2214 Yes indeed, even the side ways rotors idea can technically be reversible to give left and right control eliminating the rudder all together and give much better maneuverability as you would no longer depend on air speed to maneuver left and right. @ValRC1 keep up the good work man.
@@ZeroInDaHouse i wonder if you can reach the same effect just by opening/closing servo operated vents on the side/top of the 'chassis'. Bleeding off pressurised air from the skirt to initiate Left/Right
Episch,ich finde es wirklich,wirklich mehr als nur gut und es birgt noch immer weiteres Potential um es noch besser zu machen. An dieser Stelle mein größter Respekt für diese wunderbare Umsetzung und nicht zuletzt auch die UA-cam Video Präsentation 🌟🌟🌟🌟🌟
hi! great project, great video production, great material cost estimation. thanks for your project insights. and good luck and a lot of inspiration for next projects :) and so on ;)
1:35 Tell me if I am stupid or not: I have recently been leaving the plastic dust covering parts I am going to glue and I feel like it is acting in almost the same way as baking soda or saw dust, increasing the surface area and making the joint much stronger than it is without it.
That's an interesting thought, I always just clean everything I glue with some high percentage alcohol before gluing, to remove and residue and, like in this case, plastic sanding dust. You may have a point, but I never had any issues doing it this way. The joint on this hovercraft is solid. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment!
No idea if anyone has mentioned it yet, but you should look into the concept of 'servo saver'. RC car guys use them all the time and never break servos ;)
You can prevent the flicker from happening in the parking garage by setting your shutter speed to 1/50th of a second (when paired with a 30fps filming rate) and locking it in by finding and activating shutter priority mode to the auto exposure on your camera. You'll need to purchase an ND filter or two to film in the daytime like this, so I recommend an ND16 if you just want a single, or a combo of ND8 and ND32 if you get two, that way you have one for overcast or dawn/dusk or other dark times of the day, and then the 32 is for bright days.
@@ValRC1 That's fair, too. However, if you shoot in 50fps, you'll then want to set the shutter speed to 1/60th of a second and do all the other stuff I mentioned, still. Having motion blur between 1/40th and 1/60th of a second is key to a natural look. The reason I have it changed from 1/50th is so that if you ever go to a 60hz country, 50fps at 1/60th will already compensate for the flicker. 30fps 1/50th shutter and 50fps 1/60th shutter are the two best looking "universal" setups, IMO. 30 is more aesthetic/cinematic than the 50, but the 50 will be more lifelike. Another benefit of 50 is that you'll have built-in 2x slow motion without changing your settings, all you gotta do is slow it down in editing. Though if you want more than 2x you _will_ have to bump up to 100fps, but that'll allow you to get 4x slow motion (25fps) which you can place in a 50fps timeline and it'll just repeat the frames evenly to make it work. I wouldn't recommend always filming at 100fps as the minimum shutter speed (1/100th of a second) is FAR outside the range for natural motion blur, and it'll make your standard footage look jittery. Same thing for 60fps in a PAL 50hz country, the minimum shutter speed that would counter the flicker is 1/100th, so not good for the natural motion blur look. *Long story short* not a bad idea going to PAL framerates, but stick to 50fps 1/60th for the best overall look and built-in 2x slow motion. Hell, if you want to keep a consistent look, you could even throw away half of your non-slow-motion frames and make the final uploads 25fps, though I think that'd look a little laggy for fast-paced stuff like RC toys.
Maybe use gel super glue for the skirt next time. Also a fun project I haven't seen is duplicating those crazy overpowered super soakers from the 90's. I had one for a couple months before my parents took it cause of the "they're too freaking powerful" recall, never had a water blaster like it since. It was so fun.
You SO should put an FPV camera on it!! And maybe try to put a front bumper on it and I think if you were to get a bigger prop for the skirt or make the skirt inlet smaller you should find it would 'float' at a lot lower throttle
Thank you for the great suggestions! I might actually put an FPV cam on it, but I think I'll do some other improvements on it first. Mainly the skirt and the material it's made out of, I want to find something that can survive being used on asphalt without any issues. Your idea with the smaller inlet is great as well, as now that I think about it, air can probably escape from the inlet as the prop doesn't fill it out fully! I didn't even think of that. Definitely something I'll have to improve as well! About the front bumper, I think I'll just make a better and more durable mounting solution for the skirt instead. Gluing it on every time isn't fun, and maybe I could design something where it just clips on or screws on.
when I said sweepers what I mean is the type of thing you find in broom's only more softer and there are at the bottom of the dome shield to help it move smoother which again help it to the rest of air cushion completely and you need to recreate the base of the hovercraft to add four peg like things the two are at the front and the back and the other two are on the sides the peg things are for sliding in the dome shields which are in two pieces for the front and back to help it make it look like a whole piece altogether
Fantastic job, dude! Really well done!!! 😃 You just got another subscriber here! I don't have a 3d printer yet, I don't even have a computer right now. 😬 But as soon as I can I'm going to try to modify the files of one of those... So you don't need hot glue to assemble it. You know? Don't get me wrong, I love hot glue... But gluing isn't exactly a good way to fix something that needs to be replaceable. For the bottom side of the skirt it should be easy... But for the top part I don't really know. 😬 Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Thank you very much! And yep, hotglue works but it definitely isn't optimal, lol. I've seen some other designs use a lot of little plastic clips for securing the skirt to the main body of the hovercraft - which also seems like a lot of work to me. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment!
That's so cool dude. Any ideas on how to improve the rudder so it doesn't get as damaged? Also, do you think it'd be easy to make it somewhat waterproof? It'd be great to see it in some amphibious terrain.
Thanks! The Threaded rods I added in the video actually did a great job at protecting the rudder and servo - haven't broken one since! As for waterproofing, it can be done either by using a waterproof Receiver and ESCs in the first place, or by waterproofing them with some conformal coating. It's probably a good idea to install some foam to the underside as well, in case the hovering motor slows down or stops
@@ValRC1 I'm sorry. I meant to ask for the air cushion / skirt. English is not my first language and I mixed the words. The air cushion showed some damage. It's true it can be "easily" replaced but I was curios to know if there it a more permanent solution.
@@5eurosenelsuelo ohh okay, yes I've heard some people sew them out of ripstop nylon fabric, making it waaay more durable and even perfectly usable on asphalt
I only have 2304 Motor laying around. I know there a way havyer but does they Fit? And I think i could get more Performance when I youse the 3 Inch HQ 8 Plade Props for the ducts
I'm not sure if the mounting pattern of those motors lines up, how much distance is there in between the mounting holes? Also thank you for the hint, might try those props out!
hey sehr tolles Video. Mich würde interessieren welche Motoren genau verbaut sind. Ich habe noch brushless-motoren zuhause die aber leider nicht passen. sind zu hoch und die Lochabstände passen auch nicht. Die 1407-Brushless Motoren finde ich nicht im netz. Lg
Curious if you could try a 0.1mm TPU layer for the skirt, assuming such a thin single layer would be solid enough, TPU is very tough. Also maybe augment the front with bumpers.
Cool, I have printed the HC that was/issomewhat well known that is on thingiverse. That one has a pretty "elaborate" rudder assembly thatI think has some advantages to this design with one massive rudder fin. It also has a very different and in some ways better and other ways worse way of attaching the skirt. I dont care for the glue on design here. I think a better approach at least for the outside would be to print a "brim" that you could clamp or screw on and interlock the skirt. Would make it much eaierto quickly change the skirt.
Hello, your project is cool. Could you please tell me what type of remote control and receiver are needed? Are there any specific requirements for the motor? Thanks
I used a FlySky GT5 transmitter with a fitting receiver, but any hobby-grade transmitter should work. As for the motors, I used 1607 with 2800kv. Some other sizes like 1407, 1408 or 1507 would also work great though
i'm thinking about that black Butyl rubber sticky stuff. They use that inside car door panels to waterproof/seal them with big pieces of plastic foil. It's a sticky rubber that does not harden. It's like chewing gum that stays soft.
I've thought about that as well - glueing the skirt on isn't optimal. About the electronics compartment: another possibility would be just installing waterproof electronics. Thanks for watching and taking the time to commment!
Very cool. I want to start messing around with projects like this using my P1S. Coming from barely making my own quad, I am hesitant to dive into combining together receivers and esc's etc. The drone was an All-in-one board >< Took me days just to get it armed as is.
You really should have stuck with a dual rudder for the redesign, and rather makeeach rudder longer, and maybe further apart. With a single rudder only half the thrust form the motor is diverted and it'll still want to move forward. with a dual rudder you can divert nearly all the thrust to the side if you wish.
I see, the issue was the original creator of the hovercraft only uploaded his rudder on January 8th, when this video was posted. Before that, there was no rudder uploaded so I had to design my own. I'll try if a dual rudder gives me better handling in the future though!
Unfortunately not, it should be pretty easy to find online though. Even with the GT5, it took some trickery in the settings to get the 3rd channel to work properly, using trim, subtrim and endpoints. If you want full adjustability and control for all kinds of projects something like the Radiomaster MT12 would be great as it comes with EdgeTX software, which has endless settings and programming options. I might get one of those myself at some point, it is more expensive though.
Awesome project, and looks like a blast. Could you give me a prospective on how long it takes to print all the necessary parts? I’m new to 3D printing and I hear depending on print surface availability I can only print small parts that fit the printer. Plus some basic prints take 12+ hours even😬thanks.
The main body took 18 hours, the rear motor mount 2.5h, the skirt frame 1.5h and the rudder also 1.5h. I just let it print over night when the print takes a long time. And it's still quicker than odering something and waiting for it to arrive
Oh and yes, you can only print parts that fit in your printer. You can look up the build volume of a specific printer though, mine is 205x250x205mm max if I recall correctly
Sure, here is some info on my electronics: Motors: Eachine 1607 2800kv (Bad quality, other 1407 or 1408 would prob be better) ESC: I'd use two 30A LittleBee BLHeli_S ESCs (I used one of these, one "ACE RC") Servo: Generic 9 Gram servo, "SG90". Get a metal geared one if possible Transmitter: FlySky GT5 (any should work, I just use this for all my cars as well) Receiver: Flysky Receiver that works with my transmitter Battery: one 4s 650mah, two 3s 2200mah. I'd recommend a 4s with 800-1300mah.
Cooles Projekt, ich würde mir ne Schablone für das Kissen anfertigen dann geht es deutlich schneller. Außerdem wäre es besser wenn die Folie mit dem unteren Rahmen geschraubt wäre. Man könnte auch ein dünnes Dichtband aufkleben. Vielleicht bastel ich das bei Gelegenheit mal nach.
Gute Idee, beim nächsten Kissen mache ich mir gleich ne Schablone dazu. Ich muss auch noch schauen ob ich das Kissen oben irgendwie anders befestigen kann als kleben, ist halt suboptimal.
3d printed propellers are really bad in terms of durability, balance and power. They're super cheap so just buy a set. The link is in my parts list in the description and in the pinned comment :)
face the lifting prop forward. get some ram air assist from speed alone, reduce the power that part needs. or just use a lifter with bleed off for the thrust part. consider either vector thrust for steering or a "kitchen rudder", which is even better as it will give reverse thrust along directional control, and also forms the duct... theres also another interesting effect one can produce to make a "hovercraft" cling to the ceiling... but im not going to describe it as thee fun is finding out these things for yourself... hint. the primary school science trick of (not) blowing a bit of folded paper off a table...
@@ValRC1 no. blowing air at the ceiling. no "vacuum cleaners" here. ;) thats far too basic! i said the fun is finding out about it because at first it makes no sense. its just bernoullis principle...
I've never tried it! I'd have to add foam to the underside to ensure it floats when the hover motor stops spinning, and waterproof the electronics first.
The skirt inflation motor is set to a button on the transmitter that toggle switches it from 0% to ~60-70% Throttle, the standing motor / forward thrust motor is set to the throttle lever like normal and the steering servo is set to the steering wheel like on an rc car.
@@insane18700 lol sorry about that, I accidentally told you the wrong kv at first. Both should work though, and you could try using the 2800kv motor for skirt inflation and the 3600kv for forward thrust - I think it would be a pretty good combination
Hi ! First of all thank you very much for the video it was very interesting. I would also really like to make an RC hovecraft by myself and so could you send me the references of your electronic components (especially the motors). In any case, thank you and good luck to you!
Thank you for the positive feedback! Here is some info on my electronics: Motors: Eachine 1607 2800kv (Bad quality, other 1407 or 1408 would prob be better) ESC: I'd use two 30A LittleBee BLHeli_S ESCs (I used one of these, one "ACE RC") Servo: Generic 9 Gram servo, "SG90". Get a metal geared one if possible Transmitter: FlySky GT5 (any should work, I just use this for all my cars as well) Receiver: Flysky Receiver that works with my transmitter Battery: one 4s 650mah, two 3s 2200mah. I'd recommend a 4s with 800-1300mah.
May I take your 3D models and a small part of your video for my modified RC hovercraft project? Edit: I didn’t use it for my intro, I used it at 1:21 of my video. You can check it out on my main page. I will edit it and re-upload my video if needed. (also, my comments kept disappearing on my side, so sorry for disturbing if you see a ton of my comments)
Hey there, glad to hear I've inspired you to improve upon this hovercraft! You can absolutely take my steering rudder design and do whatever you want with it, as long as you don't sell it and you make clear that it is my design and add a link to either the printables page or this video. :) The hovercraft isn't my design so you'd have to stick to the license on the printables page or ask the actual creator. As for using part of my video, which section do you want to use and what would you use it for?
@@ValRC1 Actually, I have another design for the steering. I don’t know if it is better but I think it’s definitely worth trying. (I’ve given a hint by not saying “steering rudder”, but for what it exactly is, I think I should keep it mysterious)
@@Remi-The-DIY You are not allowed to use the entire intro part for the intro of your video, if that's what you mean. However, you can use some short clips no longer than a few seconds to explain the modifications you made to the hovercraft, if you credit me both using a text overlay during the clip itself, and post a link to my video in the video's description.
Up your skirt game. The proper way to make a skirt from a trashbag is to use a soldering iron with a flat tip to cut and seal the skirt. Leave the two layers of the bag struck together and trace the outline with a hot soldering iron, a little practice and you should be able to cut and seal it in one pass. Make sure the air passes into the skirt from the deck pressure, inflating it then out evenly spaced holes on the inner underside where the skirt attaches to your bottom plate. A single 25% 'stability hole' in the geometric center of the hull goes a long way towards a stable hover. Or go entirely skirtless lol. ua-cam.com/video/UmS_t55DbN0/v-deo.html
@@ValRC1 Advantages are a straight, clean skirt with more volume, it inflates into a fuller, more rounded profile providing higher ride height, and more width. The rounded profile gives the curtain air a better path outward along a curve, and actually sucks the perimeter of the craft down to the ground as the center lifts it. Get this right and the craft will hover at about 10% of the height of the effective beam or diameter on round craft, but will actually be stuck down at that altitude if it tries to go any higher. It's super efficient and stable. It will also as a result of it's geometry and volume, will have more 'suspension, meaning it can take jumps, drops, and handle rougher terrain better. As a general rule the skirt should have camber in relation to the upper deck, meaning the inflated contact patch of the skirt should be wider than the top deck, the camber angle should be about 10-15 degrees or the craft will experience excessive roll with that large volume of skirt. Here's a video of a hovercraft with a large volume sewn skirt jumping a curb a few inches high without impact, the skirt just sucks it up and the craft launches. ua-cam.com/video/7-oTpiiwjVA/v-deo.htmlsi=-jQw0m3vAeWx3Cr5&t=181 Now if you REALLY want to up your skirt game, get some super thin ripstop nylon, like 0.9oz weight, some needle and thread, and learn to sew so you can make the best skirt possible. It's not hard. I haven't been hovercrafting lately but i will be soon, i just finished a new large shop space and i'm planning to design some better 3d printed hovercraft better than all the ones i've seen so far. If you want, check out my posts about hovercraft over at RCGroups, (username Rusty Mustard) there's a LOT of details of pics, vids, posts, diagrams etc on there i've posted years back.
@@rustymustard7798hey there, thanks again for your past suggestions - I'm currently working on improving the hovercraft a little, do you know what's the best way to attach the skirt to the outer body of the hovercraft? Would love something more easy to install and replace than the hotglue.
@@ValRC1 Is your deck foam? I usually use 1" foam and cut a V groove all around the outer edge, then just pinch the edge of the skirt in the groove with a piece of paracord or other similar cordage tied tight and set into the groove. This makes the skirt easily removable via a single knot.
@@ValRC1My best favourite for such use cases is B7000 - good old elastic screen goop. Never lets you down. Doing my RC cars' cork fixes and strengthening using it ever since I had one.
@@ValRC1 Just one thing for you to be cautiuous of then - this glue doesn't fair negative temperatures too well, but so does the hot glue. For me it's fine because I run my cars without corks in winter - they only collect snow and don't do too much in terms of protection because cold makes them quite brittle. Same applies to some of the filaments for 3d printing - I saw guys crafting literally indestructible mods for their cars... and then came the cold))) My best guess is that photopolymers generally do better for loaded parts, and stand more chances to survive in winter, but such tech is quite expensive to run, so not too much real world data is out there. No surprise considering how much you'd have to spend on jugs of potentially useless resin just to find the right one.
⚡️⚡️GREAT STUFF⚡️⚡️I’m glad I found your channel I look forward to seeing more of your videos📺 I do mostly TRANSFORMER Stop Motion 🎬📸🎞️ I hope you enjoy my animation‼️ 13:43
Many people have asked me about details on which parts are optimal to use, so I decided to make a detailed parts list! :)
Low-budget components:
- 2x Motors: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_oDdg3j9 * (2X, meh quality but functional, premium variant below recommended if possible)
- 2x ESCs: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_mtAUIlA * (2X, not waterproof, additional XT60 plug to connect to battery needed, select “40A”)
- 1x Servo: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_mqXyPUC * (not waterproof, metal gear)
- 1x Transmitter: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_EjQzWav * (basic, simple to set up, independent control of both motors not possible, select “X6 X6FG w Gyro”)
- 1x+ 4S Battery: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_Euz1Smh * (select “XT60 Plug”, multiple batteries recommended)
- 2x 3’’ Propellers: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_Euv4zFJ *
Premium components:
- 2x Motors: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_EygXo3b * (2X, select “2680kv”)
- 2x ESCs: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_oCwM1fz * (2X, waterproof, select “40A with XT60”)
- 1x Servo: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_opjoxN1 * (waterproof, plastic gear)
OR: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_Ezax3LX * (not waterproof, metal gear)
- 1x Transmitter: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_EIqfzH3 * (extremely versatile, independent control of both motors possible, can connect to multiple models, select “ELRS ER3C-I 5000“)
- 1x+ 4S Battery: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_Euz1Smh * (select “XT60 Plug”, multiple
batteries recommended)
- 2x 3’’ Propellers: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_Euv4zFJ *
LiPo Battery charger, if needed: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_EJFbyBF *
STL files for 3D printing:
- Hovercraft: www.printables.com/model/333283-simple-brushless-rc-sport-hovercraft
- My steering rudder: www.printables.com/model/706987
(*Affiliate links, I receive a small commission at no extra cost to you)
If you have anymore questions about the build please ask me in the comments on this video or on my discord server: discord.gg/SzXRKcbhJp
Can you please explain on how to connect 3.5mm bullet plugs from the ESC to the BEC plug on my motor? Please, I'm really confused.
@Adam_Marton which BEC Plug on the motor? I just soldered my motor wires to the esc
I remember when I built one in highschool (over 20 years ago) I also pretty quickly started destroying my rudders and rudder servos. I solved this similarly to your M3 rods with a bent hoop of thin fiberglass rod around the area where the rudders moved (twin rudder).
So long ago of course different stuff was available. My RC hovercraft was about 50x30cm, mainly styrofoam and balsa, brushed DC motors and 2-bladed props, NiMH batteries, 7 minutes flight time.
What I found really made a difference in how controlable it was were double hinged rudders. Kinda like the flaps on an airliner the rudders bent in more places. They had one hinge connecting them to the shroud around the prop and then a second one in the middle of the rudder. A simple linkage made it so that when the servo moved the leading half of the rudder 45° the trailing half was almost 90°. This much less blocked the flow of air from the prop and made thrust vectoring way better.
That's cool, thank you for the tip! Gonna have to see if I can improve this design to include a dual rudder
@@hebijirikSeems like the rudders are the weak spots of an RC hovercraft…
But I’ll fix that in my redesigned hovercraft.
It's a good thing you found an empty backrooms level to drive that thing in.
This is excellent! When I built my first and only hovercraft in 1967, I would have killed for electric motors and r/c controls like this. And the idea of 3D printing was over 30 years in the future! Mine was crudely constructed of balsa wood, the lift was from a 0.98cc Davies-Charlton Spitfire model aircraft engine, the horizontal drive was Jetex solid fuel motor. No remote control, it had a short but happy and noisy life bouncing off the walls of the school gym. No video cameras on phones back then so I have nothing to show. Maybe it's time for me to spend my kids' inheritance on some gear like a 3d printer, remote controls and all the goodies I couldn't afford or even dream of back then. Whooppee!
That's really cool! 3d printers have gotten pretty cheap as well, there are some inexpensive options for $100-200
DO IT! BE THAT WILD GRAMPS!
DREAM something unforgettable to enjoy with the kids.
Really awesome project, and the video has an amazing production quality!!❤
Thank you so much, I really appreciate it!
This is so freaking cool! I want to make this, but the skirt definitely looks intimidating
I'd say it's definitely worth it :) If you mess up the skirt you can just redo it, it's just a plastic bag
That looks wild
Very nice vid!
Didn't thought that would be this fast 👀
Thank you! Yep it's got a ton of power on 4s :0
Was waiting for you to try it on water! After all a hovercraft design is for land, water and rough surfaces.
That's true, might have to try that once it gets warmer! I don't drive my rc boats unless the water is warm enough to swim in and retrieve the boat if something goes wrong.
SUCH AN UNDERRATED CREATOR
keep the work up. i did not expect the hovercraft to be that fast tho
👍
Thank you so much! It definitely has a crazy amount of power on 4s lipo
@@ValRC1🔴 What Is Islam?
🔴 Islam is not just another religion.
🔵 It is the same message preached by Moses, Jesus and Abraham.
🔴 Islam literally means ‘submission to God’ and it teaches us to have a direct relationship with God.
🔵 It reminds us that since God created us, no one should be worshipped except God alone.
🔴 It also teaches that God is nothing like a human being or like anything that we can imagine.
🌍 The concept of God is summarized in the Quran as:
📖 { “Say, He is God, the One. God, the Absolute. He does not give birth, nor was He born, and there is nothing like Him.”} (Quran 112:1-4) 📚
🔴 Becoming a Muslim is not turning your back to Jesus.
🔵 Rather it’s going back to the original teachings of Jesus and obeying him.
More .....👇
🔴 THE RETURN OF JESUS
Brings back memories when I was a child , what 40 years ago? I had a gas powered hovercraft. I’m thinking it had a Cox .049 engine. It wasn’t RC either lol. But it was fun.
That sounds fun, maybe I should strap a nitro engine on one lol
Now that is what I call a hovercraft!
I've gotta make one of these. Thanks for sharing!
Let me know how it turns out!
The printing is clean the building is amazing actually has hover craft like design so I sub
You should get rid of the rudder and upgrade it with side facing rotors and even ones for breaking maybe. You will get insane control over that thing in 2 dimensions. Even go sideways and backwards. Rudder technology is ancient you can make a really new cool modern hovercraft design with tech of today as ESC's and motors have really become small, powerful and cheap.
If you use a decent ESC you can reverse the motors, that way you could get braking and backwards movement just with a single motor.
That's a very interesting idea, but it would make the whole thing more complicated, more expensive and also heavier. Might be something worth trying out in another video though! I think just using a bidirectional ESC for the forward-facing motor would already give me the ability to go backwards
@@conorstewart2214 I'm using a BLHeli ESC for the forward-facing motor, so I just have to reprogram it to be bidirectional. The issue is, it's not connected to a flight controller or any kind of microcontroller so I can't just connect it to my pc and change the settings, like on my fpv drones
@@conorstewart2214 Yes indeed, even the side ways rotors idea can technically be reversible to give left and right control eliminating the rudder all together and give much better maneuverability as you would no longer depend on air speed to maneuver left and right. @ValRC1 keep up the good work man.
@@ZeroInDaHouse i wonder if you can reach the same effect just by opening/closing servo operated vents on the side/top of the 'chassis'. Bleeding off pressurised air from the skirt to initiate Left/Right
Man this thing is fast!
Very fun video!!
Episch,ich finde es wirklich,wirklich mehr als nur gut und es birgt noch immer weiteres Potential um es noch besser zu machen.
An dieser Stelle mein größter Respekt für diese wunderbare Umsetzung und nicht zuletzt auch die UA-cam Video Präsentation 🌟🌟🌟🌟🌟
Vielen lieben Dank für die tollen Worte! Was könnte ich daran noch ändern, um es noch besser zu machen?
hi! great project, great video production, great material cost estimation. thanks for your project insights. and good luck and a lot of inspiration for next projects :) and so on ;)
Thank you, I really appreciate it!
Amazing. Liked and subscribed!!!
Awesome, thank you!
1:35 Tell me if I am stupid or not: I have recently been leaving the plastic dust covering parts I am going to glue and I feel like it is acting in almost the same way as baking soda or saw dust, increasing the surface area and making the joint much stronger than it is without it.
That's an interesting thought, I always just clean everything I glue with some high percentage alcohol before gluing, to remove and residue and, like in this case, plastic sanding dust. You may have a point, but I never had any issues doing it this way. The joint on this hovercraft is solid. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment!
No idea if anyone has mentioned it yet, but you should look into the concept of 'servo saver'.
RC car guys use them all the time and never break servos ;)
I know, I have them on all my rc cars! Just wasn't sure how I could incorporate one on this
Cooles Projekt, well done 😊
Love this ! keep up the good work
You can prevent the flicker from happening in the parking garage by setting your shutter speed to 1/50th of a second (when paired with a 30fps filming rate) and locking it in by finding and activating shutter priority mode to the auto exposure on your camera. You'll need to purchase an ND filter or two to film in the daytime like this, so I recommend an ND16 if you just want a single, or a combo of ND8 and ND32 if you get two, that way you have one for overcast or dawn/dusk or other dark times of the day, and then the 32 is for bright days.
Thanks for the info! I ended up just setting the framerate to 25/50/100/200fps instead of 30/60/120/240fps
@@ValRC1 That's fair, too. However, if you shoot in 50fps, you'll then want to set the shutter speed to 1/60th of a second and do all the other stuff I mentioned, still. Having motion blur between 1/40th and 1/60th of a second is key to a natural look. The reason I have it changed from 1/50th is so that if you ever go to a 60hz country, 50fps at 1/60th will already compensate for the flicker.
30fps 1/50th shutter and 50fps 1/60th shutter are the two best looking "universal" setups, IMO. 30 is more aesthetic/cinematic than the 50, but the 50 will be more lifelike. Another benefit of 50 is that you'll have built-in 2x slow motion without changing your settings, all you gotta do is slow it down in editing. Though if you want more than 2x you _will_ have to bump up to 100fps, but that'll allow you to get 4x slow motion (25fps) which you can place in a 50fps timeline and it'll just repeat the frames evenly to make it work.
I wouldn't recommend always filming at 100fps as the minimum shutter speed (1/100th of a second) is FAR outside the range for natural motion blur, and it'll make your standard footage look jittery. Same thing for 60fps in a PAL 50hz country, the minimum shutter speed that would counter the flicker is 1/100th, so not good for the natural motion blur look. *Long story short* not a bad idea going to PAL framerates, but stick to 50fps 1/60th for the best overall look and built-in 2x slow motion.
Hell, if you want to keep a consistent look, you could even throw away half of your non-slow-motion frames and make the final uploads 25fps, though I think that'd look a little laggy for fast-paced stuff like RC toys.
Maybe use gel super glue for the skirt next time.
Also a fun project I haven't seen is duplicating those crazy overpowered super soakers from the 90's. I had one for a couple months before my parents took it cause of the "they're too freaking powerful" recall, never had a water blaster like it since. It was so fun.
I primarily chose hotglue because it's easy to remove again. Thanks for the Idea!
Well made bro keep going 👍
You SO should put an FPV camera on it!!
And maybe try to put a front bumper on it
and I think if you were to get a bigger prop for the skirt or make the skirt inlet smaller you should find it would 'float' at a lot lower throttle
Thank you for the great suggestions! I might actually put an FPV cam on it, but I think I'll do some other improvements on it first. Mainly the skirt and the material it's made out of, I want to find something that can survive being used on asphalt without any issues.
Your idea with the smaller inlet is great as well, as now that I think about it, air can probably escape from the inlet as the prop doesn't fill it out fully! I didn't even think of that. Definitely something I'll have to improve as well!
About the front bumper, I think I'll just make a better and more durable mounting solution for the skirt instead. Gluing it on every time isn't fun, and maybe I could design something where it just clips on or screws on.
Great craft. I wonder if Dyneema would be a good material for the skirt.
I've never heard of that, what is it?
Great content ❤❤
2:30 I would try ironing on the plastic bag? Fuse it to the plastic?
3:30 okay, it melts way too much... just spray the frame with 3M glue
Kool model. and your welcome :)
you can make a dome like shield to protect the air cushion and add sweepers to help cover it completely
Thanka for the suggestion! To be honest I'm not quite sure what you mean by that though?
when I said sweepers what I mean is the type of thing you find in broom's only more softer and there are at the bottom of the dome shield to help it move smoother which again help it to the rest of air cushion completely and you need to recreate the base of the hovercraft to add four peg like things the two are at the front and the back and the other two are on the sides the peg things are for sliding in the dome shields which are in two pieces for the front and back to help it make it look like a whole piece altogether
Fantastic job, dude! Really well done!!! 😃
You just got another subscriber here!
I don't have a 3d printer yet, I don't even have a computer right now. 😬
But as soon as I can I'm going to try to modify the files of one of those... So you don't need hot glue to assemble it. You know?
Don't get me wrong, I love hot glue... But gluing isn't exactly a good way to fix something that needs to be replaceable.
For the bottom side of the skirt it should be easy... But for the top part I don't really know. 😬
Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Thank you very much! And yep, hotglue works but it definitely isn't optimal, lol. I've seen some other designs use a lot of little plastic clips for securing the skirt to the main body of the hovercraft - which also seems like a lot of work to me. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment!
nice build!
just a suggestion, instead of hot glue for the skirt, use a cheap silicone sealant.
Great point, I'm actually thinking about making a fixture for the skirt so it's easily replacable
That's so cool dude. Any ideas on how to improve the rudder so it doesn't get as damaged? Also, do you think it'd be easy to make it somewhat waterproof? It'd be great to see it in some amphibious terrain.
Thanks! The Threaded rods I added in the video actually did a great job at protecting the rudder and servo - haven't broken one since! As for waterproofing, it can be done either by using a waterproof Receiver and ESCs in the first place, or by waterproofing them with some conformal coating. It's probably a good idea to install some foam to the underside as well, in case the hovering motor slows down or stops
@@ValRC1 I'm sorry. I meant to ask for the air cushion / skirt. English is not my first language and I mixed the words. The air cushion showed some damage. It's true it can be "easily" replaced but I was curios to know if there it a more permanent solution.
@@5eurosenelsuelo ohh okay, yes I've heard some people sew them out of ripstop nylon fabric, making it waaay more durable and even perfectly usable on asphalt
I only have 2304 Motor laying around. I know there a way havyer but does they Fit?
And I think i could get more Performance when I youse the 3 Inch HQ 8 Plade Props for the ducts
I'm not sure if the mounting pattern of those motors lines up, how much distance is there in between the mounting holes? Also thank you for the hint, might try those props out!
hey sehr tolles Video. Mich würde interessieren welche Motoren genau verbaut sind. Ich habe noch brushless-motoren zuhause die aber leider nicht passen. sind zu hoch und die Lochabstände passen auch nicht. Die 1407-Brushless Motoren finde ich nicht im netz. Lg
Kannst sonst Mal nach 1408 schauen, ich selbst hab Eachine 1607 Motoren drin aber die Qualität ist absolut grottenschlecht, würde ich nicht empfehlen.
Curious if you could try a 0.1mm TPU layer for the skirt, assuming such a thin single layer would be solid enough, TPU is very tough. Also maybe augment the front with bumpers.
Maybe, I've actually thought of sticking a thin layer of TPU on the bottom for some added protection
Thats really cool!
Cool, I have printed the HC that was/issomewhat well known that is on thingiverse. That one has a pretty "elaborate" rudder assembly thatI think has some advantages to this design with one massive rudder fin. It also has a very different and in some ways better and other ways worse way of attaching the skirt. I dont care for the glue on design here. I think a better approach at least for the outside would be to print a "brim" that you could clamp or screw on and interlock the skirt. Would make it much eaierto quickly change the skirt.
Which one is that?
your 3d printer seems to be very accurate what kind of it? and what is the material you use?
It's an original Prusa MK2.5S. I used standard PLA Filament
I would recommend to attach yellow propeller directly to the servo. Without a tail.
But still it’s the most satisfying and fun project I have seen this year yet.
Thanks for the suggestion!
nice job!
It probably works fine without the air cushion ventilator, right? Not much friction on small toys anyway.
No, it rubs way too much
Hello, your project is cool. Could you please tell me what type of remote control and receiver are needed? Are there any specific requirements for the motor? Thanks
I used a FlySky GT5 transmitter with a fitting receiver, but any hobby-grade transmitter should work. As for the motors, I used 1607 with 2800kv. Some other sizes like 1407, 1408 or 1507 would also work great though
needs a remix to make the skirt easily replaceable, and a compartment built in for electronics and battery, so it can have brief jaunts over water
i'm thinking about that black Butyl rubber sticky stuff. They use that inside car door panels to waterproof/seal them with big pieces of plastic foil. It's a sticky rubber that does not harden. It's like chewing gum that stays soft.
I've thought about that as well - glueing the skirt on isn't optimal. About the electronics compartment: another possibility would be just installing waterproof electronics. Thanks for watching and taking the time to commment!
@insanebmxthomas That could work, some also use silicone conformal coating for waterproofing electronics
small suggestion for improvement maybe? use the inner tube of a bicycle tire for the skirt.rubber should be sturdier than the plastic
Thanks for the suggestion! I might try that sometime
Awesome video. I will be building this. I just subscribed to your channel.
Thanks for the sub and have fun building this!
HOW ARE YOU JUST TOUCHING HOT GLUE OH MY LORD
It just feels warm or slightly hot to me, weirdly enough xD It is a low temp hot glue gun though
This is so cool
Nice video!
Very cool. I want to start messing around with projects like this using my P1S. Coming from barely making my own quad, I am hesitant to dive into combining together receivers and esc's etc. The drone was an All-in-one board >< Took me days just to get it armed as is.
I'm sure you can do it! There's a lot less fiddling around with the software than on an FPV drone
You really should have stuck with a dual rudder for the redesign, and rather makeeach rudder longer, and maybe further apart.
With a single rudder only half the thrust form the motor is diverted and it'll still want to move forward. with a dual rudder you can divert nearly all the thrust to the side if you wish.
I see, the issue was the original creator of the hovercraft only uploaded his rudder on January 8th, when this video was posted. Before that, there was no rudder uploaded so I had to design my own. I'll try if a dual rudder gives me better handling in the future though!
OMG subscribed!
Nice! What radio and receiver combo are you using?
A Flysky GT5 with a cheap 3ch FlySky AFHDS-2A receiver
@@ValRC1 Thanks! I can't get my Spektrum radio/receiver combo to control the rotors separately. Do you have an affiliate link?
Unfortunately not, it should be pretty easy to find online though. Even with the GT5, it took some trickery in the settings to get the 3rd channel to work properly, using trim, subtrim and endpoints.
If you want full adjustability and control for all kinds of projects something like the Radiomaster MT12 would be great as it comes with EdgeTX software, which has endless settings and programming options. I might get one of those myself at some point, it is more expensive though.
How are you doing the prusa timelapse?
They're timelapses recorded from a gopro mounted to the heated bed
Mine is printing off at the moment.Will finish it when I get back from holidays.
Awesome, let me know how it turns out
Awesome project, and looks like a blast. Could you give me a prospective on how long it takes to print all the necessary parts? I’m new to 3D printing and I hear depending on print surface availability I can only print small parts that fit the printer. Plus some basic prints take 12+ hours even😬thanks.
The main body took 18 hours, the rear motor mount 2.5h, the skirt frame 1.5h and the rudder also 1.5h. I just let it print over night when the print takes a long time. And it's still quicker than odering something and waiting for it to arrive
Oh and yes, you can only print parts that fit in your printer. You can look up the build volume of a specific printer though, mine is 205x250x205mm max if I recall correctly
Thanks again for the info
Nice video! It must have taken a lot of work to make.
Thank you, I appreciate it!
very cool but could you give me the names of the electronics you used the pintables description dose not have a lot of info thanks👍👍
Sure, here is some info on my electronics:
Motors: Eachine 1607 2800kv (Bad quality, other 1407 or 1408 would prob be better)
ESC: I'd use two 30A LittleBee BLHeli_S ESCs (I used one of these, one "ACE RC")
Servo: Generic 9 Gram servo, "SG90". Get a metal geared one if possible
Transmitter: FlySky GT5 (any should work, I just use this for all my cars as well)
Receiver: Flysky Receiver that works with my transmitter
Battery: one 4s 650mah, two 3s 2200mah. I'd recommend a 4s with 800-1300mah.
Cooles Projekt, ich würde mir ne Schablone für das Kissen anfertigen dann geht es deutlich schneller. Außerdem wäre es besser wenn die Folie mit dem unteren Rahmen geschraubt wäre. Man könnte auch ein dünnes Dichtband aufkleben. Vielleicht bastel ich das bei Gelegenheit mal nach.
Gute Idee, beim nächsten Kissen mache ich mir gleich ne Schablone dazu. Ich muss auch noch schauen ob ich das Kissen oben irgendwie anders befestigen kann als kleben, ist halt suboptimal.
What motor do you used?
Awesome !! What if you made the skirt out of two layers of duct tape ? I think i am going to try that some day when i have the time !! 😃
Great Idea, let me know if it works out!
Can i print the props if i can there is one problem i cant find the stl
3d printed propellers are really bad in terms of durability, balance and power. They're super cheap so just buy a set. The link is in my parts list in the description and in the pinned comment :)
face the lifting prop forward. get some ram air assist from speed alone, reduce the power that part needs.
or just use a lifter with bleed off for the thrust part.
consider either vector thrust for steering or a "kitchen rudder", which is even better as it will give reverse thrust along directional control, and also forms the duct...
theres also another interesting effect one can produce to make a "hovercraft" cling to the ceiling... but im not going to describe it as thee fun is finding out these things for yourself...
hint. the primary school science trick of (not) blowing a bit of folded paper off a table...
Thanks for your interesting thoughts! I guess making the skirt inflation motor run the other way would make it suck itself to the ceiling?
@@ValRC1 no. blowing air at the ceiling. no "vacuum cleaners" here. ;) thats far too basic!
i said the fun is finding out about it because at first it makes no sense. its just bernoullis principle...
Huh, that does in fact not make sense xD. Wouldn't that push it away from the ceiling?
2:59 the central half-circle and rectangular areas should stay blocked.!
Not sure I understand this completely - if the whole skirt is blocked, where does the air blow out to actually make it hover?
You mean, the other areas should be open?
its cool.
parabéns!
Did you ever run it across water?
I've never tried it! I'd have to add foam to the underside to ensure it floats when the hover motor stops spinning, and waterproof the electronics first.
Give the connection details like the diagram??
nyoom~!
x3
Just so you know in the future, ISO will make hot glue release if you have an oopsie
I didn't know that, thanks for the hint! Do you mean Isopropanol alcohol by ISO?
@@ValRC1 yes
Can it work on water or is insulation needed?
It might work on water as is but I'd add some foam so it floats by itself if it loses power
@@ValRC1 you could try foam TPU filament
Or just stick on some regular foam
When I was a kid, I built something similar from a plastic bottle and a zip-lock gripper😂
That's pretty cool!
Motor and rc transmitter settings?
The skirt inflation motor is set to a button on the transmitter that toggle switches it from 0% to ~60-70% Throttle, the standing motor / forward thrust motor is set to the throttle lever like normal and the steering servo is set to the steering wheel like on an rc car.
you should try building the one tom stanton made
Are you talking about the single motor one?
Now i wanna buikd one that looks like the starwars speedster
Go for it!
when i seen this thumbnail i thought of jackie chan movie when he cuts the hovercraft with a lambo with a sword haha
Bro please make a rc truck completely made up of 3d printer ❤
Thanks for the cool Idea!
yoooo
Does it drive on water?
Haven't tested that out yet, I might try it in summer when the water isn't as cold though.
This hovercraft is full of eels.
What about driving on water?
Have you tested it on water?
Not yet, I might try it in summer when the water is warmer
@@ValRC1 I am curious how much thrust does it need to stay afloat
@@TheEragoon Around 60-70% Throttle to hover properly on a 3s lipo, and around 50% on 4s
The Lipo battery cells are sealed so it's fine
I would love to see it hovering on water
Maybe in summer when the water is warmer!
Res Res Res RESPEK !
hdzero next?
I don't have the budget for digital FPV, but I might add an analog fpv system to this at some point!
What kv motors are those?
3800kv if I recall correctly
They have 2800kv
I picked up a set of 2800kv and i think 3600kv for the heck of it. Great video by the way. @@ValRC1
@@insane18700 lol sorry about that, I accidentally told you the wrong kv at first. Both should work though, and you could try using the 2800kv motor for skirt inflation and the 3600kv for forward thrust - I think it would be a pretty good combination
That is the plan lol thank you and no problem. @@ValRC1
Hi !
First of all thank you very much for the video it was very interesting.
I would also really like to make an RC hovecraft by myself and so could you send me the references of your electronic components (especially the motors). In any case, thank you and good luck to you!
Thank you for the positive feedback! Here is some info on my electronics:
Motors: Eachine 1607 2800kv (Bad quality, other 1407 or 1408 would prob be better)
ESC: I'd use two 30A LittleBee BLHeli_S ESCs (I used one of these, one "ACE RC")
Servo: Generic 9 Gram servo, "SG90". Get a metal geared one if possible
Transmitter: FlySky GT5 (any should work, I just use this for all my cars as well)
Receiver: Flysky Receiver that works with my transmitter
Battery: one 4s 650mah, two 3s 2200mah. I'd recommend a 4s with 800-1300mah.
Hi, thanks a lot for taking the time to answer to every comment this is realy cool ! I take you update for my project. Have a good day !@@ValRC1
that's a back to the future dodgem car 🤣 🤣 🤣
Yeah the word f****t was not taboo in 2008. Maybe where you were, but not everywhere in the US for sure
May I take your 3D models and a small part of your video for my modified RC hovercraft project?
Edit: I didn’t use it for my intro, I used it at 1:21 of my video. You can check it out on my main page.
I will edit it and re-upload my video if needed.
(also, my comments kept disappearing on my side, so sorry for disturbing if you see a ton of my comments)
Hey there, glad to hear I've inspired you to improve upon this hovercraft! You can absolutely take my steering rudder design and do whatever you want with it, as long as you don't sell it and you make clear that it is my design and add a link to either the printables page or this video. :) The hovercraft isn't my design so you'd have to stick to the license on the printables page or ask the actual creator.
As for using part of my video, which section do you want to use and what would you use it for?
@@ValRC1 Actually, I have another design for the steering. I don’t know if it is better but I think it’s definitely worth trying.
(I’ve given a hint by not saying “steering rudder”, but for what it exactly is, I think I should keep it mysterious)
@@ValRC1The intro part, sorry for answering this late since I didn’t notice the question😅
@@ValRC1 Also I might borrow some footage in the showcases for comparison.
@@Remi-The-DIY You are not allowed to use the entire intro part for the intro of your video, if that's what you mean. However, you can use some short clips no longer than a few seconds to explain the modifications you made to the hovercraft, if you credit me both using a text overlay during the clip itself, and post a link to my video in the video's description.
It be zuming
Can it can on water
Probably, after adding some foam to the underside and waterproofing the electronics! :)
Great👍 Funktionierte das auch wenn man es doppelt so groß baut ?
Sollte gehen. Man müsste allerdings das Design ein bisschen abändern, damit die Bauteile noch passen.
Up your skirt game. The proper way to make a skirt from a trashbag is to use a soldering iron with a flat tip to cut and seal the skirt. Leave the two layers of the bag struck together and trace the outline with a hot soldering iron, a little practice and you should be able to cut and seal it in one pass.
Make sure the air passes into the skirt from the deck pressure, inflating it then out evenly spaced holes on the inner underside where the skirt attaches to your bottom plate. A single 25% 'stability hole' in the geometric center of the hull goes a long way towards a stable hover.
Or go entirely skirtless lol. ua-cam.com/video/UmS_t55DbN0/v-deo.html
Thank you for the advice! In what way would a skirt made that way improve performance over mine?
@@ValRC1 Advantages are a straight, clean skirt with more volume, it inflates into a fuller, more rounded profile providing higher ride height, and more width. The rounded profile gives the curtain air a better path outward along a curve, and actually sucks the perimeter of the craft down to the ground as the center lifts it. Get this right and the craft will hover at about 10% of the height of the effective beam or diameter on round craft, but will actually be stuck down at that altitude if it tries to go any higher. It's super efficient and stable.
It will also as a result of it's geometry and volume, will have more 'suspension, meaning it can take jumps, drops, and handle rougher terrain better. As a general rule the skirt should have camber in relation to the upper deck, meaning the inflated contact patch of the skirt should be wider than the top deck, the camber angle should be about 10-15 degrees or the craft will experience excessive roll with that large volume of skirt.
Here's a video of a hovercraft with a large volume sewn skirt jumping a curb a few inches high without impact, the skirt just sucks it up and the craft launches. ua-cam.com/video/7-oTpiiwjVA/v-deo.htmlsi=-jQw0m3vAeWx3Cr5&t=181
Now if you REALLY want to up your skirt game, get some super thin ripstop nylon, like 0.9oz weight, some needle and thread, and learn to sew so you can make the best skirt possible. It's not hard.
I haven't been hovercrafting lately but i will be soon, i just finished a new large shop space and i'm planning to design some better 3d printed hovercraft better than all the ones i've seen so far.
If you want, check out my posts about hovercraft over at RCGroups, (username Rusty Mustard) there's a LOT of details of pics, vids, posts, diagrams etc on there i've posted years back.
@@rustymustard7798 Sounds good, I'll have to look into that. Thank you!
@@rustymustard7798hey there, thanks again for your past suggestions - I'm currently working on improving the hovercraft a little, do you know what's the best way to attach the skirt to the outer body of the hovercraft? Would love something more easy to install and replace than the hotglue.
@@ValRC1 Is your deck foam? I usually use 1" foam and cut a V groove all around the outer edge, then just pinch the edge of the skirt in the groove with a piece of paracord or other similar cordage tied tight and set into the groove. This makes the skirt easily removable via a single knot.
Hoonicraft
indeed :D
You know you don't have to use hot glue. There are other non-hot options available. CA glue would have worked fine for example.
I didn't want to use CA glue for the skirt, because it's a lot harder to remove again
@@ValRC1My best favourite for such use cases is B7000 - good old elastic screen goop.
Never lets you down.
Doing my RC cars' cork fixes and strengthening using it ever since I had one.
@@harlequintheserpent7016 the funny thing is, I just ordered some B7000 for a phone repair! Good to know it works well for other things as well
@@ValRC1 Just one thing for you to be cautiuous of then - this glue doesn't fair negative temperatures too well, but so does the hot glue.
For me it's fine because I run my cars without corks in winter - they only collect snow and don't do too much in terms of protection because cold makes them quite brittle.
Same applies to some of the filaments for 3d printing - I saw guys crafting literally indestructible mods for their cars... and then came the cold)))
My best guess is that photopolymers generally do better for loaded parts, and stand more chances to survive in winter, but such tech is quite expensive to run, so not too much real world data is out there. No surprise considering how much you'd have to spend on jugs of potentially useless resin just to find the right one.
@@harlequintheserpent7016 to be honest, most plastic gets really brittle below freezing temperature. What is a photopolymer?
Two words. Teflon skirt.
That's a great idea! I'll see if I can get some Teflon film and what other options there are for a better skirt
@@ValRC1 Thanks!
You'll likely need some way to affix it mechanically. Glue won't stick to it.
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