Відео

Aww, I hope it lasts longer now!

If the arms are thick enough and you print it in some harder TPU like 98A or 58D it should be fine. There's only one way to find out though!

I'm glad you like it! Greetings from Austria :)

Iirc I downloaded that one from thingiverse

Iirc I downloaded that one from thingiverse

@@ValRC1 how much the part you've printed weight?

oh wow that's really weird, I've never had or heard of that issue. Might be related to the ESC or/and Transmitter. Hope you get it figured out!

@@ValRC1 yeah very weird, removed all ESC wires and changed this morning, let's see if that works.

Nice, glad you like yours as well!

@@ValRC1 Actually ran mine today. Btw, talking about the first generation, EMB-1H series, but pretty similar

Works great! I just don't recommend it for racing or speedrunning as it does make control a slight bit more imprecise because of the flex

Oh okay, I knew about the shock towers but the hubs as well? interesting

Oh cool, nice to see someone from the same region! :) Awesome, rc models and 3d printers are a great match! I've actually started printing an almost fully 3d printed rc car, gonna have to see how well it turns out though. If it works well, I'll probably make a video about it as well!

Thank you, I appreciate it!

@@ValRC1I try to make my videos as good as yours

Thanks! The Threaded rods I added in the video actually did a great job at protecting the rudder and servo - haven't broken one since! As for waterproofing, it can be done either by using a waterproof Receiver and ESCs in the first place, or by waterproofing them with some conformal coating. It's probably a good idea to install some foam to the underside as well, in case the hovering motor slows down or stops

@@ValRC1 I'm sorry. I meant to ask for the air cushion / skirt. English is not my first language and I mixed the words. The air cushion showed some damage. It's true it can be "easily" replaced but I was curios to know if there it a more permanent solution.

@@5eurosenelsuelo ohh okay, yes I've heard some people sew them out of ripstop nylon fabric, making it waaay more durable and even perfectly usable on asphalt

It's a Flysky GT5

Thanks for your thoughts! The thing is, on a clean road surface slicks usually have the best traction - and even on a clean road these were extremely slippery..

@@ValRC1 oh I see. Maybe try to break that 101km with some PJ1 TrackBite? :0

Thank you for the feedback, I really appreciate it! Interesting, some said they loved the transitions, others hate them - gonna have to see what works better, but it's definitely a whole lot less work while editing to do less transitions/effects. Quick question, do you mean just the black background with white text which I added to indicate a new segment of the video, or all the transitions even between different clips? About the title/thumbnail combo: I tried with a more conservative approach first, but when I saw that the video only got like 20 views I switched it to the current one. The plan of the video was indeed initially to 3d print rims *and* tires, but when that failed I decided to 3d print just the rims and try again. I agree though, I probably should have made that more clear at the beginning of the video. Again, thanks for the feedback, really helpful :)

@@ValRC1 @ValRC1 yes, I meant the black background with the white text. Also yes, idk what the past thumbnail was, but this one looks nice. And yes, it's two birds with one stone. Less transitions of that kind is way less work and less wasted time for the viewers. Transitions can be done by just talking. It just comes out natural like conversations. Fit the video to the voice, not the other way around. YT recommended me this video after watching "Work by design". I'm not saying you gotta mirror him or that u gotta have the same editing quality as him, but definitely check him out. I assume, there's a reason for UA-cam to be showing your videos after his, besides just the related topic of printing/crafting stuff. At the end of the day as long as the core content of the video is good, views will pour in. Filler editing or even fancy editing that supports the video is just a bonus. And to be fair, I think some of us were just waiting for that RnD process, a small journey in which you would explore more ways to make that 3D print tire whether it was by designing it yourself or hunting for one, regardless of whether it was a success or not. Just seeing the process can be a story worth sharing, if it is a good one. Again, work by design or other channels like Tom Stanton are good examples of what I mean. I'm not quite sure, but I believe Tom has way less editing stuff than Work by design. So it goes to show that as long as a video is well structured and cut and it can still do fine. Anyway, I'm no expert on being a UA-camr, but knowing how to beat the algorithm is as simply as knowing what people like, which basically means what value does the viewer get from it. If I don't get value from it then it's just annoying/boring to watch.

@@fernandozenomiranda9470 alright thanks again, I'll take a look!

Thanks for the feedback, I appreciate it! The plan of the video was inded initially to 3d print rims *and* tires, and that didn't work very well. The video is an experiment, so I decided to leave that part in as well to show that not everything that sounds like a good idea at first ends up actually working out very well - it's part of the process. I then decided to 3d print just the rims and try again. I agree though, I think I should have made that more clear at the beginning of the video, instead of just mentioning it quickly.

It's a Wltoys 124019 that I modified with a more powerful brushless combo

I have a link to my Discord server in the video description and you could send me a DM from there, or what do you need to contact me for?

Thanks for the reminder, just uploaded them! www.printables.com/model/814875-wltoys-unbreakable-arms-144001-124019

Thanks, I appreciate it!

In this video I used TPU, but that probably wouldn't be too optimal for speedrunning as it is pretty flexible and can deform under high loads. If it needs to be stiff, Polycarbonate (hard to print, toxic fumes and expensive) would be optimal, but PCTG might work as well. Nylon is a solid middle ground between flexibility, toughness and stiffness but again, a little bit harder to print. Maybe you could also change the design if it breaks at a weak point / mounting point?

@@ValRC1 I was talking to a buddy to see if he might be able to help me improve on the design and make it a bit stronger. I really appreciate the advice!

Thanks! I wanna try going for 120km/h next time, but I really need a wider road for that

@@ValRC1 that was a good save when you spun out that one time

@@mattiazanni3086 To be honest, I think there was a lot of luck involved lol

Thanks! The car itself isn't 3d printed, but in my second video on this channel I did 3d print some parts for it. I do have plans to 3d print a complete high-speed rc car though, so stay tuned for that!

Thanks a lot, I appreciate it! Maybe you could DIY some tires from some rubber for your 1/16 car?

@@ValRC1 Yeah, I may try it!

Thanks for the feedback! Lol

Thanka for the suggestion! To be honest I'm not quite sure what you mean by that though?

when I said sweepers what I mean is the type of thing you find in broom's only more softer and there are at the bottom of the dome shield to help it move smoother which again help it to the rest of air cushion completely and you need to recreate the base of the hovercraft to add four peg like things the two are at the front and the back and the other two are on the sides the peg things are for sliding in the dome shields which are in two pieces for the front and back to help it make it look like a whole piece altogether

Maybe, but having lot of subscribers doesn't always equal experience. I apologize if I said that in the video, of course none of the UA-cam channels reviewing things purely for the money or to get another free car are "stupid".

Unfortunately not, as it's just way too much work to 3d design all the parts

Very nice, thank you - I appreciate it!

Lol yep, the body didn't like the upgrade at all 😬😂

I'm Austrian, guessing you figured out my native language from my accent? :) Great to know that it's a good truck in general, and thanks for the hint about the bushings - I'll definitely have to check!

Oh that's awesome, I've been wondering if the brushless and brushed versions have different gearboxes, as is the case on some other rcs. Mine has been holding up great though!

By the way, how I found this offer is while actually looking for a nitro version of the Firestorm. One of the best Nitros ever made with a ridiculous amount of power on the rear wheels, but unfortunately very rare nowadays..

@@ValRC1 I understand the gearboxes are the same on both versions, with metal gears apart from the platic spur gears on both versions. The part numbers are the same in the gearboxes, I also had to make a wheelie bar that I fitted under the rear of the chassis, held on by the 4 mounting screws under the chassis. Works great, I know you can still buy the HPI wheelie bar for the Firestorm. But are difficult to find & quite expensive for what they are.

That's awesome. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment, I really appreciate it!

Very true, I've never actually seen expensive spare parts from china though. Usually the ones bought from hobby shops are like $15 with the AliExpress equivalent being closer to $5. Which 1/8th scale rig are you using btw?

@@ValRC1 My 1/8th scale is Remo Hobby Dinosaurs, essentially, a Traxxas Slash copy with some big wheels, new suspension and body. Has some benefits and drawbacks inherited, overall performs quite decent. Added benefit of multitude co-platformers and local availability of spare parts rocks! Talking prices... My 1/12th scale car costs about 50 bucks new. Dinosaurs is about 300. However, stock wheels for it cost a third less than a set for the small noname thingie, despite having foams, being physically bigger, and having overall decent quality (not too baloony, quite grippy). A set of small suspension arms costs about 25$, and those are all none-adjustable. For the bigger car that sum could buy you all the lower arms, adjustable linkages, and one more set to keep spare (lower arms are the same all around, just the knuckles differ). Oil-filled shocks which the small thing doesn't have from the factory cost 1.5 times more than a set of eight factory shocks for the Dinosaurs. Except, they are smaller, and there are four of them. And they're still more expensive per piece than factory aluminium upgrades. The list goes on infinitely. And we're talking factory tuning, there are some aftermarket parts for the small noname, but prices get outlandish, somewhere in Tamiya territory. I know, Tamiya might not sound expensive for you, but, you know, fourth world problems. So, those guys run the HP business policy: sell dirt cheap car to sell overpriced replacements. The only upside is that this small thingie isn't too fragile, and most suitable upgrades like tires and shocks can be outsourced from the aftermarket tuning for other brands, almost always - cheaper than factory replacements. The thing I find hilarious is that the small truggy had quite big wheels fitted to be marketed as 1/10th, and they share with the Dinosaurs 12th hex, which is as small~ish for later, as it is oversized for the small one.

Ohh, I see what you mean. When I thought of a cheap Chinese rc car, I thought of my wltoys 144001, which is a super popular option and the spares are most often like 3$. I once bought a set of all the arms, rear hubs and steering blocks/hubs for $6 which is just crazy cheap. On the other hand, spare parts for my 1/8th scale Arrma Outcast for example are suuper expensive, with a differential costing over $50 for example.

A Flysky GT5 with a cheap 3ch FlySky AFHDS-2A receiver

@@ValRC1 Thanks! I can't get my Spektrum radio/receiver combo to control the rotors separately. Do you have an affiliate link?

Unfortunately not, it should be pretty easy to find online though. Even with the GT5, it took some trickery in the settings to get the 3rd channel to work properly, using trim, subtrim and endpoints. If you want full adjustability and control for all kinds of projects something like the Radiomaster MT12 would be great as it comes with EdgeTX software, which has endless settings and programming options. I might get one of those myself at some point, it is more expensive though.

No, it rubs way too much

Nope, no Idea, sorry

Thank you, I really appreciate it!

That's really cool! 3d printers have gotten pretty cheap as well, there are some inexpensive options for $100-200

That's a great idea! I'll see if I can get some Teflon film and what other options there are for a better skirt

@@ValRC1 Thanks! You'll likely need some way to affix it mechanically. Glue won't stick to it.

Maybe, I've actually thought of sticking a thin layer of TPU on the bottom for some added protection

Thanks for the suggestion! I might try that sometime

I used a FlySky GT5 transmitter with a fitting receiver, but any hobby-grade transmitter should work. As for the motors, I used 1607 with 2800kv. Some other sizes like 1407, 1408 or 1507 would also work great though