From beginning to end, this video is probably to most comprehensive exposition of your methodology to be found throughout your videos. Thus, whereas there are some areas in other videos less than graphical, this one has from beginning to end captured what your techniques produce. In addition, what makes this particular video stand out, for me, is the structure, the structure that I find so friendly and repeatable. Key: repeatable, I can go in the field and apply the same methodology. Great Job
Great explanation! I have been a G.M. Tech for over 30 years and your video is as good as any I have ever seen. Keep up the great work. These vehicles are very complexed and we need information like yours that is easy to understand.
Scanner Danner, i did all this from memory and diagnosed an EGR solenoid as bad, but i just realized i used the test light backwards, or opposite the way you did. I hooked up my alligator clip to the needle and touched ground with my test light. The light worked and i didn't get the engine yo stall or want to die, thus i figured the egr solenoid must be bad. My main question though, is, Is it possible to uee the test light backwards or will it affect anything negatively? I've never thought of it until now. Hope you see this!
@@iwishtobetexan6060i believe that is the same because you are grounding the control circuit anyway and is protect by the light bulb in the test light. The flow of current will be the same
I did all the checks like shown of this great video. I did a screen shot from where the main power source. The fuse was pulled, thinking maybe it was a spare because a radio was installed and might of blown a fuse. This truck came no manual book. So I had no way but to look around for a fuse diagram. The diagram showed as that slot 33 is a spare. Anyways I placed a fuse and not only that it got rid of that code p0403 but it also got rid of p2197, p2195, p0155, p0135, p0446 and p0443. That moment was a great feeling. Thank you
Excellent video. You've explained the troubleshooting and especially how to test and verify which type of driver the ECM uses to drive the solenoid valve. Unlike some explanations one sees, it's clear that you actually understand the subject, and are therefore able to explain it properly. Thumbs up!
Thank the lord I found this video, my damn truck is throwing these codes and was told it was the EGR valve, of course replacing it didn't fix it. Thank you for the info!
I have a 04 expedition 5.4 l, I would like to say thank you so much for your help and videos in the EGR vacuum system. I had to track and replace most of the vacuum lines due to dried out or broken. I could have not troubleshoot anything without your videos and your help thank you so much for your insight.
@ladillando1 The great thing about this field is there are so many different ways to test components. There is no one right way. Thanks for your input.
Excellent. Unlike so many on YT that speak in generalities too much, SD speaks and warns; you will FRY your computer if you do this... Some circuits are 5V and some are 12V, and 12 will fry a 5V circuit and possibly the PCM.
Thank you for the video. My van had a P0401, I tested the EGR with vacuum looking for a stall, just got a good drop on RPM but when you said stumble, I decided to check the passages at the TB and it was badly clogged. So, as you point out, has to be a good drop and not just a RPM drop. Thank you.
mine reads ~4.0 volts at idle :( think I should replace it? Does that mean it thinks the EGR is open? I have P0402 on a Mustang, occasional rough idle, the reference voltage (bottom pin) is 5 Volts.
Connect an ammeter in series to the test light and touch it on battery positive and negative. You will not need to run a resistor in series to the test light as most conventional test lights draw less than 300ma. And 300ma is not enough to damage computer output driver transistors.
Hey Paul, you have Explained very clearly about the EGR System testing using the Test Light and warning, I'm really excited about your Channel coz I'm gaining more knowledge, Skills and Experience Thank you Danner
I discovered that the vacuum solenoid valve is actually adjustable. I had a P0401 code, a new DPFE aftermarket, which I think may be failing. Uncertain about that. The DPFE just tells you if the EGR is working OK. I wanted to see if the EGR was working, despite the code. I took the solenoid valve out, took off the cap, and rapped it sharply 20 or 30 times, until dirt quit falling out. There is a tiny air filter under the cap , it should be cleaned periodically. This air filter fits around a steel tube, which can be screwed in or out. That tube is a vent when the solenoid is open. When it's closed vacuum is routed to the EGR. It's normal for there to a tiny bit of vacuum at the EGR diaphragm, I found that if after cleaning, it gets too far screwed in, it cuts off the vacuum completely. So, engine running at an idle I back it out just until it effected the idle in the slightest. Testing: I took a long piece of hospital oxygen hose , put a TEE in the vacuum hose to the EGR, brought the hose to my lap with a vacuum gauge, and drove. You can watch the gauge and see exactly when the EGR opens and closes, and fine tune the solenoid valve if needed. So, ....check engine light has not come back on, but if it does I will know that it is the DPFE., which as pointed out, are a real common failure. The partial disassembly of that solenoid valve is probably something few people would think of but you would be amazed at the quantity of very fine dirt after 300k.
Great video. This confirms my findings. I don’t have a scanner to monitor voltages. I’m guessing my computer is not grounding my valve solenoid because I still get p0401 insufficient flow. No blockage, EGR good, new sensor and solenoid controller. I’ll check my ground to computer and see if it gets a voltage drop from 13.2v to almost none when accelerating. Again thanks for the eye opener.👍🏻
@lucky51762 To each his own i guess. The prob. with the hand vacuum pump is it doesn't test the solenoid or solenoid circuit. Not to mention the solenoid control wire and PCM driver. My attempt was to show a complete diagnosis, not just the EGR and passages. I like the hand vac. pump method too, but people need to realize there is more to test than that when you have an EGR code.
I love my Verus, problem is my boss paid for it. So I don't know if I can give you unbiased information. I will say as far as scanners go that there is no better tool on the market for the aftermarket tech. than the snap-on scanners. (Solus, Solus Pro, Solus Ultra, Verus, Verdict) BTW I find the Verus to be very user friendly and I absolutely love it!
Do an exhaust backpressure test on that. If the cat is plugged up this can cause the excessive EGR flow code on the Fords. I have a video on how to do a back pressure test using the DPFE hoses as the place to connect a pressure gauge.
Another great video. I've also tested DPFEs directly with a small vac to one of the ports. My Thunderbird had tubes that were completely blocked, so obviously this test would be inconclusive about a bad DPFE. Also.. Should the EGR solenoid hold vacuum at KOEO? KOER? One of my units seems to be venting.
When I'm working in any Ford vehicle with EGR flow problem I do is connect a vacuum gauge parallely to the EGR valve using a T, and a voltmeter to EGR valve solenoid. After I running a KOER test. In this fashion I'm checking the EGR valve, and solenod for, mechanic and electric problems. If the problem is the solenoid, I remove its cap and puting my finger on the vent port I'm checking for EGR valve passages clogged. You don't need an additional multimeter, use the Verus for all the tests.
I just looked up this code for you. It is an EVR solenoid circuit fault. With the key on you should have 12v on both wires with the solenoid plugged in. Watch this video "2002 Mazda 626 EVAP Purge Solenoid P0443" I know it isn't the same solenoid but it is the identical test you want to do for this code
Great video, now I know how to test the EGR system, if only you could show where you connect the dvm and test light...ground or battery that would be great. After all you always warn us about burning the ECM.
All voltmeter checks would be on a dc scale, 20v setting, red lead to each of the DPFE wires individually and black to battery ground. The test light was also connected to battery ground. It must be an incandescent light to be able to energize the solenoid. You won't hurt that driver with a 200ma nominal amperage, like most lights are today. But check it first ua-cam.com/video/gEQnKNLlcFQ/v-deo.html
I have 12 volts on one side and 2.3 on the other side (unplugged). Everything is new no vacuum leaks. Getting a code 327 egr circuit below minimum voltage. Runs decent but got check light. Barely pulling vacuum at the egr Less than 1lb at any throttle position . 91 ford f150 5.8
thanks for your great video and very helpful to understand how the sensor circuit works I need your advise(opinion) about the Snap on Verus that you are using to test Some guys criticize about this scanner - high price tag but doesn't cover the others do - would you give me the impartial advise about the scanner/scope ? thanks a lot Any problem or inferior things comparing other scanners or scopes is it ease to use ?
I appreciate your awesome vids and verbalizing exact instructions-none of that-"Uh, uh, ummm, ummm" that is so common in other tutorial You Tube vids. You present well and at a great pace. My comment or question, I suppose, is what about all us bottom-rung, shade-tree brokanics out here with out one of them thar fancy doo-hickey scanner danner gizmos? Guys like me don't know zip from a good scanner. Whata we do? Anyhoo, keep up that great work. Looking forward to many more informative vids.
Subscribe to my forum brother. I have DYI guys from all over the world sharing information with each other on what tools they are using and how they compare to the professional stuff. Thank you! scannerdanner.com/forum/diagnostic-tools-and-techniques.html
i replaced dpfe sensor. ill test all three of them tomorrow. i noticed while driving the egrv percentage sometime works and sometime doesnt and dpef voltage only reaches 1.3-1.5. i do have exhaust flow coming out through egr pipe and also have vacuum coming from intake manifold. after watching the video you mention. i think i have a short on dpfe harness. evr works from modis test.
Great video, very detailed, I'm certified master tech with Ford from many yrs and I'm having issue with 2000 4.6 expedition code p0405, only that code ! every pinpoint test lead me nowhere , and I'm frustrated about it. My reading are opposite than yours and i can't understand why! Once I activate the EGREVR 100%OPEN by using FORD IDS my dpfe voltage drop to .13 v throwing p0405 code. Yes the passage are clean no sludge in the engine and during egrevr open test engine dropps rpm ( indicating no obstruction) dpfe tubes great condition. Any help will be sincerely appreciate..
@@ScannerDanner i really appreciate your reply and i subscribe to your channel because your videos are great, about the dpfe sensor i try to replace it already and the position of the hoses is correct. Egr open voltage goes extremely low.. this is driving me nuts! Thx again
it would have been nice if the ports were clogged with carbon since the most likely egr fault on that engine is a p0401 for that or a bad DPFE for an example nice video anyhow . your students are lucky when i was in school my instructor had been teaching since carborator and points days and had nothing too offer but books and videos no experiance
If you get EGR POS. sensor codes, replace the TPS! If you have vacuum at the EGR at idle,the TPS is causing vacuum at the EGR. The TPS is causing the idle to go up a little causing vacuum at the EGR.
DonziGT230 It could be the charcoal canister purge valve on Ford's that have one. A TPS misreading throttle angle might tell the computer that the throttle is open more than it is and cause the computer to send vacuum to the EGR at idle. It might cause the idle to be sped up causing vacuum to the EGR. A bad ISC motor can cause high idle and improper vacuum to the EGR.
Hahaha Actually it was well explained, but he explained it so well, we like to jump to the conclusion and drone out everything he’s saying and wanted to get right to it without all the other important information LMAO
I hope you can help me. I have a 2000 mustang v6, I've replaced the DPFE and solenoid but while driving the EGR keeps opening at low engine speeds (not at idle). I checked DPFE voltage at idle as well when I manually open the egr with a vacuum pump, it is always reading at 3.4-3.8 volts regardless if the EGR is open or not, yes the engine is up to temp. I know the EGR valve itself works due to the engine stalling when I apply vacuum, it holds vacuum too. I cleaned the egr and egr pipe to the intake. both DPFE hoses are are in good shape. I had an intermittent P0402, this is driving me nuts, car only has 106km thank you in advance
So your new DPFE sensor is always reading 3.4-3.8 volts? This number is WAY to high for a closed valve position. With the key on, give me voltage readings of all three wires of the DPFE sensor with the sensor plugged in and backprobing
@@ScannerDanner thanks for the response. So I replaced the dpfe again since posting my comment, with a different brand. At first it read 1.06 volts from the top pin with the key on, worked great, for a few hours... now it failed, top pin reads 2.16v, middle is 0.00v, bottom is 5.16v key on. Is there a brand that actually works longer than a few hours of use?
@@robwest1178 you need to test your car for a restricted exhaust. A plugged cat will cause excessive exhaust psi to run into the DPFE hoses and it will cook this sensor. I have videos on testing for this using the DPFE sensor hoses.
@@ScannerDanner I checked the exhaust when i replaced the clutch, all good there. After going through two aftermarket sensors which failed within hours, I went to the junkyard and got three original FoMoCo sensors, tested the first one and installed in the junkyard parking lot none-the-less. This pony has been running perfect for about 3 weeks now. Lesson learned, don't bother with any cheapo aftermarket DPFE, only a factory original one will last. Thanks again for helping diagnose.
I have never replaced a ford computer for a dpfe sensor code. DiD you replace the Dpfe sensor. DiD you make sure that you DiDn't reverse the Dpfe sensor hoses? Watch my latest video on dpfe senser testing on a ford focus it Will help you
I've never seen that tube clog up. It has a calibrated orifice in between the two tubes (in the main tube) you didn't drill that out did you? If you did, this is your problem.
it almost stall the truck. the egr tube(small tube that goes to DPFE sensor were clogged. i cut it open and drilled it out then weld it back. i ordered a new one. if you disconnect the tube from egr and start it up shouldnt you hear exhaust leak at idle? i only hear giving when i give it gas.
Is 12.75. on the control wire to turn it on and off is . 05 when I rev it up it goes up to point 0 6. Maybe . 07 does that mean that the computer is not working properly. Or maybe a break in The wire somewhere
Excellent video. I have a 99 Expedition 5.4L with a P0401. I applied vacuum to the EGR valve and the engine stalls. I cleaned the EGR ports thinking they would be clogged and they were not. I tested all the vac lines and replaced a few that were cracked. I replaced the DPFE sensor and the code went away for a short time. Now it's back. I am going to test the solenoid following your vid. How do I test the DPFE sensor voltage without a scanner? Which wire should I connect my meter to? Thanks for the great videos.
one of the tube for the DPFE measures vacuum? maybe im not getting enough vacuum to those small tube? i think i have a good vacuum coming out intake manifold to egr. using my finger to close it while apply vacuum to egr it sucks pretty good. i wouldnt think its clogged after the egr. should i take the intake manifold to clean it up?
To advanced for a beginner theres got to be a easier way once you learn this stuff its gold but in the meantime it will take months or years to learn i love scanner danner hes the best but just way way to advanced for a beginner
I believe it was you who just said the same thing on my newest video. Was it you? You should consider signing up for my classes i offer on my website. Sign up for the free trial and then immediately cancel and you won't be charge the $11/month. This way you'll get a full 14 days to watch some classes. I suggest starting in Chapter 3, as it pertains, in part, to this video and the procedures I've done. I bet you will start to feel different. And it does NOT take years and years to learn this stuff my friend. www.scannerdanner.com/join-scannerdanner-premium.html
Thanks in advance for any help or insight you may have to my question! Im really quite stuck on this one. also when I take the vac line off the egr and hook a hose up to it and suck on it, the engine wants to stall, so I fig the EGR is working. I then notiiced a small nick in the wire sheathing on one of the wires going to the EGR solenoid, I taped it up but I wonder if that could also be the cause of the problem? Thanks again!
just a question Paul how can I know what is the current flow of my test light? what if I use a 5 or 6 K homs resistor to low the current on my test light?
Disconnect the vacuum hose and at idle, there shouldn't be vacuum. At 1200 RPM'S, there should be vacuum. If not, check the vacuum purge valve. If the engine smooths out when you disconnect the hose at idle, it's NOT the EGR. Hook up a Mityvac to the EGR and pump up 5" of vacuum. It should hold. If it leaks down, it's the EGR valve. With the engine running at 1000 RPM'S, pump up 5" of vacuum. The engine should stumble. If not, the EGR is clogged or the passage is clogged or the EGR isn't opening.
Hello Paul...Im looking at a MB 2001 S430 wiring diagram for the air suspension valve body, all 6 wires go to the pneumatic suspension control module and I dont see any feed wire fro fuse/power. Is this a powerside circuit as all go to the module? Thanks.
Had a P0401 code for a long time on a Ranger 2.5L engine, replaced the EGR valve and now have a 0402 code...truck runs great, no issues! Any idea on next step??
your video was extremly helpful...my problem is after i applied the test light to activate the solenoid, my DPFE voltage dropped??? whats up with that? the reference voltage was present with both solenoid and DPFE...I have a 2000 f150 5.4... the truck stalled immediatly so the passages i assume are clear...help a brother out
Got a question that I pray u can ancer. Ive got a 2002 ford explorer, 4.6 V8, had a few days of sputtering off the line on harder accell. Then cel poped up, P0402. Excessive EGR flow. Bought a new dpfe sensor, no change. cleaned EGR as much as i could, no change, checked all vac lines, no leaks. Took off whole throtle body and cleaed it, along with checking and leaning all my plugs... no change.I have a smal hole in my mufler that is getting a little louder, any chance that could affect the egr?
Hi not sure if you can help i have a focus duratorq turbo diesel common rail 1.6l 2006/2007 I am getting egr valve stuck open p042e-62 egr control circuit low p0489-62 and also glow plugs control circuit p0380-61 I only get 5 volts from the wire on connector on egr but is that not meant to be 12v. if I remove the top part of the egr and manually move the valve position sensor with my hand i can see on the diagnostic software forscan thst the egr valve position voltage goes up to 98.8% no idea what volts that is and when I let go it springs back and goes to 0 but still doesn't activate on car and just says low circuit a egr stuck open. I have cleaned out egr it moves freely I have disconnected glow plug switch but still gets same codes also checked wires to it and connected ok do you think the cause could be not enough power getting to the components as 5v seems low for a power line I've even cleaned all earth up also and sometimes I get u0073 can com bus fault under pcm if egr is broke could that cause the other faults all come under pcm codes Thanks
REF 2009 Ford Explorer 4.0L EGR with 4 wire (vs 2 wire) connector (DPFE mounted on EGR assy). This EGR assy has direct connections to 4 electrical wires and 2 vacuum lines to control its functions. Can I test the 4 wires with a meter? Which is controlled by the PCM? Need pinout. Need troubleshooting for this rare EGR used on 2009 and possibly 2010 Ford Explorers with the 4.0L V6. HELP! THX!
The P0401 code shouldn't have anything to do with rich or lean conditions. Well, at least not at idle. I suppose if the EGR is not flowing at cruising speed when it normally is, there could be some fuel trim corrections due to the lack of EGR flow.
I wish I could run that test but I cannot turn the key on because I have a interlock device. Can only test with engine running. I am 77 on disability. I bought a probe, multimeter, t-pins, DPFE, vacuum pump and spent $500 on a GEM MODULE. just trying to keep my 98 F-150 alive until June and after 7 years with the interlock device I can't make it to the end in 3 months. If I turn my key on I have to start the truck. It runs great with 133k miles. I have this test equipment and can't use it. I even made a smoke machine I saw on UA-cam. I surrender.
i have a 2001 E150 4.2. code P0401. i did all this test with my modis, EVR works.(tested it and it idle rough but my DPFE sensor does not change volts) the most it changes is 1.3 maybe seen 1.5 while driving any suggestion. egr tube was clogged the little ones connects to DPFE sensor. clean that. also cleaned the other side going to intake. i came to a conclusion that the computer is no good
I did this exact test on my 98 ranger 2.5L and grounded the control solenoid and the engine ran rough. The DPFE and EGR solenoid(vacuum regulator) have been changed. I think the computer is not working. Is is time for a shop to test it with one of those snap-on scanners. I have that P0401 code Could I find the wire going to the computer and check the integrity of the wiring from computer to connector?
What about p0406 04 Expedition 5.4 2v- EGR Circuit "A" High? Same tests? I've literally replaced everything with EGR and still get the code. I reset the PCM and it's drives fine. It drives fine with the code too. No rough idle. Only noticeable symptom is the brakes are shakey. The code is intermittent. After watching and reading the comments I feel as if I should goto the pick and pull and get a handful of DPFE until one keeps the code away. Any other possible tests I can run or places to look? Also, the pcv hose that runs from bank 1 to the vacuum solenoid- there's a "canister looking piece that ends up sitting behind the Throotle body/intake. Any idea of what that is/does and if it can fail? Thanks in advance. Love the videos 🤙
With the key on engine off, give me voltage readings on all 3 wires of the DPFE sensor. Plugged in and backprobing. I can definitely help you if I have those numbers.
Have you ever seen an EGR tube where the orifice between the two DPFE tubes came loose and out of place? I have tried 3 new Motorcraft DPFE sensors, and voltage remains at 1 volt even though I have verified EGR flow! I have tried checking differential pressure testing and cant see any difference in pressures of the two tubes. My truck is a '98 Expedition. My scan tool is showing up to 90% EGR flow. I have the 5 volt reference voltage at the DPFE and have also traced the signal wire for continuity to the PCM and backprobed it, shows 1 volt whatever I try
if you pull a vacuum on the upper hose, with the key on engine off, the DPFE voltage should rise. Does it? I have never seen a tube issue, doesn't mean it can't happen, but even if it was there, you should still see some movement of the signal when the EGR opens. So you've confirmed that the EGR has flow and it just about stalls the engine when you open it right?
@@ScannerDanner Thanks for your reply. I'll try that. I can easily stall the engine using any of the methods described. Grounding the vacuum solenoid stalls the engine, but the test light wouldn't. I tee a compound gauge on both hoses individually and they dont seem to change from less than 1psi.
@@ScannerDanner I replaced the EGR tube and it solved the problem. I have 2 engine monitors not ready; Catalyst and evap. Can I pass emissions or have to still do more drive cycles?
I got a question my 03 expedition got p0405 code i energized it grounding it like that. the engine revs up it doesnt stall. Could it be clogged. Also it wasnt idling it would stall on its own
Scanner Danner, i did all this from memory and diagnosed an EGR solenoid as bad, but i just realized i used the test light backwards, or opposite the way you did. I hooked up my alligator clip to the needle and touched ground with my test light. The light worked and i didn't get the engine yo stall or want to die, thus i figured the egr solenoid must be bad. My main question though, is, Is it possible to uee the test light backwards or will it affect anything negatively? I've never thought of it until now. Hope you see this!
that test has two factors: 1. the resistance of the solenoid (current flow) 2. the resistance of the test light bulb you are using You also MUST know if the circuit is being switched to ground or switched to power by the ECM. From memory these older Fords were all ground side switched, so test light to ground and touch on the control wire. If your light did not energize the solenoid, either you were not on the control wire or your test light wasn't able to carry the current flow needed for that solenoid to energize. You said your bulb was lit. Was it just as bright as on the feed wire?
@@ScannerDanner my bulb was lit when touching the control wire (the one that gets ground from PCM to activate the solenoid), but I didn't test it on the feed side with the light, only a multimeter, so I'm not sure if there is a difference in brightness. I ended up removing the piece, getting two wires and using the battery as a sort of way to power and test the solenoid ( I do not have a power probe). My solenoid didn't move so it also made me feel more confident in my diagnosis that my solenoid was bad. however it is a brand new solenoid ( a cheap one from rockauto). I recently replaced it, and check engine light gone temporarily, maybe a hundred miles. So I am wondering if (assuming I'm correct and the solenoid is bad) perhaps there is something else wrong that may have caused my solenoid to fail so soon, or maybe it's just cheap and I should use a different one. As for the dpfe sensor, when unplugged I have ground and 2 5v wires. Then, when plugged in I tried removing vacuum hoses and grounding with the test light on the solenoid (what we mentioned above) but on my multimeter I saw no change in voltage at the dpfe sensor. The return voltage stayed at about .10 I believe. I was quite overwhelmed but I think I'm gonna have to redo all my tests. However, does the method on your videos require the vehicle to be operating temperature? I literally just learned about closer loop right after doing my tests so I'm thinking I may also have been wrong in everything because I did some with vehicle cold and others with vehicle warm. Sorry this is long, I am very grateful for your previous response. Have a goodnight sir!
I didn't unplug the hoses on the dpfe sensor at the same time as grounding the solenoid. I actually did them separately but neither changed the voltage on the sensor return wire. I was actually watching other videos as well to see if they had any other methods, which is where I saw this. I'm currently working on an 04 expedition 5.4l. I also used a vacuum pulp to pull vacuum on EGR with hose disconnected, and it held, so I think that my EGR is good according to another video. I hardly felt any suction from the hose on top though, and even when grounding the solenoid (which I am sure it was bad) I couldn't feel a difference in the suction. But at the hose connecting into the solenoid, the suction was 20hg easy on idle. I basically found that all my issues lead to the solenoid, but I am currently confused on the dpfe sensor. I actually don't know how it works really. Hope this wasn't all too confusing, I'm pretty confused myself haha. I'm thinking of making an enormous checklist with steps for me to knockout on a weekend off so I have time to think about it.
@@ScannerDanner also I know the basics of EGR and evap, but I've never had any real experience until now so I feel I may be missing somethings or perhaps using the wrong terms.
Hey so if my DPFE goes from 1.05 (V) with the ignition on and sky rockets to 3.89-4.00 (V) while the engine is running does that mean I change the DPFE sensor? The vehicle also completely dies out when I manually energize the solenoid.
hi i accidently sent voltage through volt tester by pressing the positive button while testing the pdfe sensor key off and disconnected from sensor. saw sparks at contact now my truck will not crank or start. checked fuses and they seem to be good . do you think the pcm is toast? also when connecting the scanner it wont connect thanks in advance for your reply
1997 ford f150 4.6 p402 code. changed the sensors, selinoid, vacuum lines. runs rough, after a few minutes p402 excessive egr flow again. problem solution... trade in for a Silverado. problem solved!
haha nice When it is running rough, what happens when you disconnect the vacuum hose to the EGR valve? Another test, while it is running rough, disconnect the EVR solenoid wiring connector only. Does roughness go away? What is DPFE voltage at idle with everything plugged in?
Hey Paul I know you probably have answered this in other videos. But gotta ask that did you connect your test light lead into the positive terminal. Because it's a ground control circuit to energize the circuit?
He clipped the test light's wire to a ground point so that when connecting the test light probe to the control terminal of the solenoid valve, it would pull to ground, thus providing the current path from the "constantly hot" wire (the one on the right) through the solenoid coil, and then through the test light, and finally to ground. This simulates what the ECM's output does in this particular instance. The ECM has what us electronics types would call an "open collector" output which means that it pulls to ground when energizing the load it's driving. This is also sometimes referred to as an "active low" output.
From beginning to end, this video is probably to most comprehensive exposition of your methodology to be found throughout your videos. Thus, whereas there are some areas in other videos less than graphical, this one has from beginning to end captured what your techniques produce. In addition, what makes this particular video stand out, for me, is the structure, the structure that I find so friendly and repeatable.
Key: repeatable, I can go in the field and apply the same methodology.
Great Job
Great explanation! I have been a G.M. Tech for over 30 years and your video is as good as any I have ever seen. Keep up the great work. These vehicles are very complexed and we need information like yours that is easy to understand.
Thank you!
@@ScannerDanner what's the name of the hose directly above the pcv hose.
@@atrausstyles3024 time frame please
Scanner Danner, i did all this from memory and diagnosed an EGR solenoid as bad, but i just realized i used the test light backwards, or opposite the way you did. I hooked up my alligator clip to the needle and touched ground with my test light. The light worked and i didn't get the engine yo stall or want to die, thus i figured the egr solenoid must be bad. My main question though, is, Is it possible to uee the test light backwards or will it affect anything negatively? I've never thought of it until now. Hope you see this!
@@iwishtobetexan6060i believe that is the same because you are grounding the control circuit anyway and is protect by the light bulb in the test light. The flow of current will be the same
I did all the checks like shown of this great video. I did a screen shot from where the main power source. The fuse was pulled, thinking maybe it was a spare because a radio was installed and might of blown a fuse. This truck came no manual book. So I had no way but to look around for a fuse diagram. The diagram showed as that slot 33 is a spare. Anyways I placed a fuse and not only that it got rid of that code p0403 but it also got rid of p2197, p2195, p0155, p0135, p0446 and p0443. That moment was a great feeling. Thank you
Awesome
Very nice video man I have bachelors in automotive and it’s rare to find people that fully understand the systems and operation you got it great job !
That's a great lesson I've had a lot of problems lately with EGR valves and Japanese cars thanks for the help
Excellent video. You've explained the troubleshooting and especially how to test and verify which type of driver the ECM uses to drive the solenoid valve. Unlike some explanations one sees, it's clear that you actually understand the subject, and are therefore able to explain it properly. Thumbs up!
Thanks man. 16 years teaching at Rosedale Technical College has helped me communicate these subjects for sure.
Thank the lord I found this video, my damn truck is throwing these codes and was told it was the EGR valve, of course replacing it didn't fix it. Thank you for the info!
Scanner Danner's videos are superb. Nothing but pure knowledge
I have a 04 expedition 5.4 l, I would like to say thank you so much for your help and videos in the EGR vacuum system. I had to track and replace most of the vacuum lines due to dried out or broken. I could have not troubleshoot anything without your videos and your help thank you so much for your insight.
@ladillando1 The great thing about this field is there are so many different ways to test components. There is no one right way. Thanks for your input.
Excellent. Unlike so many on YT that speak in generalities too much, SD speaks and warns; you will FRY your computer if you do this... Some circuits are 5V and some are 12V, and 12 will fry a 5V circuit and possibly the PCM.
Thank you for the video. My van had a P0401, I tested the EGR with vacuum looking for a stall, just got a good drop on RPM but when you said stumble, I decided to check the passages at the TB and it was badly clogged. So, as you point out, has to be a good drop and not just a RPM drop. Thank you.
Great video guys. Very informative and detailed. Right to the point without unnessecary chatter. Kudos🤘🏼
Thanks man and there was nothing wrong with this one, I was just showing procedures. I'll do some more like this. I was actually planning on it too.
DPFE sensor shows 1.03V is good. Specs on most Ford/Mercury is 0.8-1.2v signal wire at idle. Outside that replace.
mine reads ~4.0 volts at idle :( think I should replace it? Does that mean it thinks the EGR is open? I have P0402 on a Mustang, occasional rough idle, the reference voltage (bottom pin) is 5 Volts.
Connect an ammeter in series to the test light and touch it on battery positive and negative. You will not need to run a resistor in series to the test light as most conventional test lights draw less than 300ma. And 300ma is not enough to damage computer output driver transistors.
Hey Paul, you have Explained very clearly about the EGR System testing using the Test Light and warning, I'm really excited about your Channel coz I'm gaining more knowledge, Skills and Experience
Thank you Danner
You've been binge watching! Awesome
I discovered that the vacuum solenoid valve is actually adjustable. I had a P0401 code, a new DPFE aftermarket, which I think may be failing. Uncertain about that. The DPFE just tells you if the EGR is working OK. I wanted to see if the EGR was working, despite the code.
I took the solenoid valve out, took off the cap, and rapped it sharply 20 or 30 times, until dirt quit falling out. There is a tiny air filter under the cap , it should be cleaned periodically. This air filter fits around a steel tube, which can be screwed in or out. That tube is a vent when the solenoid is open. When it's closed vacuum is routed to the EGR.
It's normal for there to a tiny bit of vacuum at the EGR diaphragm, I found that if after cleaning, it gets too far screwed in, it cuts off the vacuum completely. So, engine running at an idle I back it out just until it effected the idle in the slightest.
Testing: I took a long piece of hospital oxygen hose , put a TEE in the vacuum hose to the EGR, brought the hose to my lap with a vacuum gauge, and drove. You can watch the gauge and see exactly when the EGR opens and closes, and fine tune the solenoid valve if needed.
So, ....check engine light has not come back on, but if it does I will know that it is the DPFE., which as pointed out, are a real common failure.
The partial disassembly of that solenoid valve is probably something few people would think of but you would be amazed at the quantity of very fine dirt after 300k.
Great video. This confirms my findings. I don’t have a scanner to monitor voltages. I’m guessing my computer is not grounding my valve solenoid because I still get p0401 insufficient flow. No blockage, EGR good, new sensor and solenoid controller. I’ll check my ground to computer and see if it gets a voltage drop from 13.2v to almost none when accelerating. Again thanks for the eye opener.👍🏻
What ended up being your problem?
One of the best videos I've ever seen.
+Jimmy Pea thanks brother, many more just like it
A merry Christmas for you and your family sir, thank you for your enormous contribution to automotive education ...😎
@lucky51762 To each his own i guess. The prob. with the hand vacuum pump is it doesn't test the solenoid or solenoid circuit. Not to mention the solenoid control wire and PCM driver. My attempt was to show a complete diagnosis, not just the EGR and passages. I like the hand vac. pump method too, but people need to realize there is more to test than that when you have an EGR code.
I love my Verus, problem is my boss paid for it. So I don't know if I can give you unbiased information. I will say as far as scanners go that there is no better tool on the market for the aftermarket tech. than the snap-on scanners. (Solus, Solus Pro, Solus Ultra, Verus, Verdict)
BTW I find the Verus to be very user friendly and I absolutely love it!
Great video explaining everything. My man you are on your game. Thanks a lot.
Do an exhaust backpressure test on that. If the cat is plugged up this can cause the excessive EGR flow code on the Fords. I have a video on how to do a back pressure test using the DPFE hoses as the place to connect a pressure gauge.
Excellent explanation thanks so much, cheers from Guatemala
precise. simple, excellent lesson
I'd love to see the diagnosis on the 'Module" Style EGR.
Another great video. I've also tested DPFEs directly with a small vac to one of the ports. My Thunderbird had tubes that were completely blocked, so obviously this test would be inconclusive about a bad DPFE.
Also.. Should the EGR solenoid hold vacuum at KOEO? KOER? One of my units seems to be venting.
Excellent rundown
Thanks for the video lesson!
When I'm working in any Ford vehicle with EGR flow problem I do is connect a vacuum gauge parallely to the EGR valve using a T, and a voltmeter to EGR valve solenoid. After I running a KOER test. In this fashion I'm checking the EGR valve, and solenod for, mechanic and electric problems. If the problem is the solenoid, I remove its cap and puting my finger on the vent port I'm checking for EGR valve passages clogged. You don't need an additional multimeter, use the Verus for all the tests.
simple enough, well done
No problem, let me know how it goes
I just looked up this code for you. It is an EVR solenoid circuit fault. With the key on you should have 12v on both wires with the solenoid plugged in. Watch this video "2002 Mazda 626 EVAP Purge Solenoid P0443" I know it isn't the same solenoid but it is the identical test you want to do for this code
Great video, now I know how to test the EGR system, if only you could show where you connect the dvm and test
light...ground or battery that would be great. After all you always warn us about burning the ECM.
All voltmeter checks would be on a dc scale, 20v setting, red lead to each of the DPFE wires individually and black to battery ground. The test light was also connected to battery ground. It must be an incandescent light to be able to energize the solenoid. You won't hurt that driver with a 200ma nominal amperage, like most lights are today. But check it first ua-cam.com/video/gEQnKNLlcFQ/v-deo.html
I have 12 volts on one side and 2.3 on the other side (unplugged).
Everything is new no vacuum leaks.
Getting a code 327 egr circuit below minimum voltage. Runs decent but got check light.
Barely pulling vacuum at the egr Less than 1lb at any throttle position .
91 ford f150 5.8
What is the voltage plugged in and backprobing? Also when measured at the PCM itself
Thanks brother! And thanks for getting back to me so fast! U da man!
thanks for your great video and very helpful to understand how the sensor circuit works
I need your advise(opinion) about the Snap on Verus that you are using to test
Some guys criticize about this scanner - high price tag but doesn't cover the others do -
would you give me the impartial advise about the scanner/scope ?
thanks a lot
Any problem or inferior things comparing other scanners or scopes
is it ease to use ?
I appreciate your awesome vids and verbalizing exact instructions-none of that-"Uh, uh, ummm, ummm" that is so common in other tutorial You Tube vids. You present well and at a great pace. My comment or question, I suppose, is what about all us bottom-rung, shade-tree brokanics out here with out one of them thar fancy doo-hickey scanner danner gizmos? Guys like me don't know zip from a good scanner. Whata we do? Anyhoo, keep up that great work. Looking forward to many more informative vids.
Subscribe to my forum brother. I have DYI guys from all over the world sharing information with each other on what tools they are using and how they compare to the professional stuff.
Thank you!
scannerdanner.com/forum/diagnostic-tools-and-techniques.html
It is free to join
Fords use a normally open (to the atmosphere) vent solenoid, so KOEO and KOER it will not hold any vacuum.
i replaced dpfe sensor. ill test all three of them tomorrow. i noticed while driving the egrv percentage sometime works and sometime doesnt and dpef voltage only reaches 1.3-1.5. i do have exhaust flow coming out through egr pipe and also have vacuum coming from intake manifold. after watching the video you mention. i think i have a short on dpfe harness. evr works from modis test.
you established that it wasnt the egr for the low rough idle ...so what was the problem??? . i have the same car and problem
Most likely not as you did this RPM drop test at idle when the EGR is not even in operation. Check your compression in that cylinder.
Great video, very detailed, I'm certified master tech with Ford from many yrs and I'm having issue with 2000 4.6 expedition code p0405, only that code ! every pinpoint test lead me nowhere , and I'm frustrated about it. My reading are opposite than yours and i can't understand why! Once I activate the EGREVR 100%OPEN by using FORD IDS my dpfe voltage drop to .13 v throwing p0405 code. Yes the passage are clean no sludge in the engine and during egrevr open test engine dropps rpm ( indicating no obstruction) dpfe tubes great condition. Any help will be sincerely appreciate..
If seen bad dpfe sensors do this. Also if the hoses get reversed on the tube or sensor maybe?
@@ScannerDanner i really appreciate your reply and i subscribe to your channel because your videos are great, about the dpfe sensor i try to replace it already and the position of the hoses is correct. Egr open voltage goes extremely low.. this is driving me nuts! Thx again
Hey Fed, I’m having a pretty much identical issue on my 2002 4.6 F150. Have you been able to get anywhere troubleshooting yours?
it would have been nice if the ports were clogged with carbon since the most likely egr fault on that engine is a p0401 for that or a bad DPFE for an example nice video anyhow . your students are lucky when i was in school my instructor had been teaching since carborator and points days and had nothing too offer but books and videos no experiance
How much would it typically cost to diagnose egr problems?
If you get EGR POS. sensor codes, replace the TPS! If you have vacuum at the EGR at idle,the TPS is causing vacuum at the EGR. The TPS is causing the idle to go up a little causing vacuum at the EGR.
Ummm, no.
DonziGT230 It could be the charcoal canister purge valve on Ford's that have one. A TPS misreading throttle angle might tell the computer that the throttle is open more than it is and cause the computer to send vacuum to the EGR at idle. It might cause the idle to be sped up causing vacuum to the EGR. A bad ISC motor can cause high idle and improper vacuum to the EGR.
Awesome video!
maybe the signal wire from dpfe sensor harness has a short. because i know it has 5v disconnected and connect it reads 1v
what were your symptoms before you did the test? or should I say, why did you do this test?
Where have you been all my UA-cam?
Question? Where did you acquire the wiring diagram?
Dear god I understand this more than I understand my gf's logic. 🤔
hahahaha
Hahaha Actually it was well explained, but he explained it so well, we like to jump to the conclusion and drone out everything he’s saying and wanted to get right to it without all the other important information LMAO
I hope you can help me. I have a 2000 mustang v6, I've replaced the DPFE and solenoid but while driving the EGR keeps opening at low engine speeds (not at idle). I checked DPFE voltage at idle as well when I manually open the egr with a vacuum pump, it is always reading at 3.4-3.8 volts regardless if the EGR is open or not, yes the engine is up to temp. I know the EGR valve itself works due to the engine stalling when I apply vacuum, it holds vacuum too. I cleaned the egr and egr pipe to the intake. both DPFE hoses are are in good shape. I had an intermittent P0402, this is driving me nuts, car only has 106km thank you in advance
So your new DPFE sensor is always reading 3.4-3.8 volts? This number is WAY to high for a closed valve position. With the key on, give me voltage readings of all three wires of the DPFE sensor with the sensor plugged in and backprobing
@@ScannerDanner thanks for the response. So I replaced the dpfe again since posting my comment, with a different brand. At first it read 1.06 volts from the top pin with the key on, worked great, for a few hours... now it failed, top pin reads 2.16v, middle is 0.00v, bottom is 5.16v key on. Is there a brand that actually works longer than a few hours of use?
@@robwest1178 you need to test your car for a restricted exhaust. A plugged cat will cause excessive exhaust psi to run into the DPFE hoses and it will cook this sensor. I have videos on testing for this using the DPFE sensor hoses.
@@ScannerDanner I checked the exhaust when i replaced the clutch, all good there. After going through two aftermarket sensors which failed within hours, I went to the junkyard and got three original FoMoCo sensors, tested the first one and installed in the junkyard parking lot none-the-less. This pony has been running perfect for about 3 weeks now. Lesson learned, don't bother with any cheapo aftermarket DPFE, only a factory original one will last. Thanks again for helping diagnose.
@@robwest1178 never came back on? I bought a aftermarket DPFE and a entire new EGR valve and it came back I'm about to buy new tubes?
Thank you👍
I have never replaced a ford computer for a dpfe sensor code.
DiD you replace the Dpfe sensor. DiD you make sure that you DiDn't reverse the Dpfe sensor hoses? Watch my latest video on dpfe senser testing on a ford focus it Will help you
I've never seen that tube clog up. It has a calibrated orifice in between the two tubes (in the main tube) you didn't drill that out did you? If you did, this is your problem.
great video
it almost stall the truck. the egr tube(small tube that goes to DPFE sensor were clogged. i cut it open and drilled it out then weld it back. i ordered a new one. if you disconnect the tube from egr and start it up shouldnt you hear exhaust leak at idle? i only hear giving when i give it gas.
Do you even need the scanner or can you just listen for the poor idle and determine it using that?
Also Are you sure you're getting enough e g r flow. When you energized that solenoid it should just about stall the truck
Is 12.75. on the control wire to turn it on and off is . 05 when I rev it up it goes up to point 0 6. Maybe
. 07 does that mean that the computer is not working properly. Or maybe a break in The wire somewhere
Excellent video. I have a 99 Expedition 5.4L with a P0401. I applied vacuum to the EGR valve and the engine stalls. I cleaned the EGR ports thinking they would be clogged and they were not. I tested all the vac lines and replaced a few that were cracked. I replaced the DPFE sensor and the code went away for a short time. Now it's back. I am going to test the solenoid following your vid. How do I test the DPFE sensor voltage without a scanner? Which wire should I connect my meter to? Thanks for the great videos.
I have another video on testing the dpfe with a voltmeter. Just search either dpfe or egr as a keyword
one of the tube for the DPFE measures vacuum? maybe im not getting enough vacuum to those small tube? i think i have a good vacuum coming out intake manifold to egr. using my finger to close it while apply vacuum to egr it sucks pretty good. i wouldnt think its clogged after the egr. should i take the intake manifold to clean it up?
To advanced for a beginner theres got to be a easier way once you learn this stuff its gold but in the meantime it will take months or years to learn i love scanner danner hes the best but just way way to advanced for a beginner
I believe it was you who just said the same thing on my newest video. Was it you?
You should consider signing up for my classes i offer on my website. Sign up for the free trial and then immediately cancel and you won't be charge the $11/month. This way you'll get a full 14 days to watch some classes. I suggest starting in Chapter 3, as it pertains, in part, to this video and the procedures I've done. I bet you will start to feel different. And it does NOT take years and years to learn this stuff my friend.
www.scannerdanner.com/join-scannerdanner-premium.html
Thanks in advance for any help or insight you may have to my question! Im really quite stuck on this one. also when I take the vac line off the egr and hook a hose up to it and suck on it, the engine wants to stall, so I fig the EGR is working. I then notiiced a small nick in the wire sheathing on one of the wires going to the EGR solenoid, I taped it up but I wonder if that could also be the cause of the problem? Thanks again!
Hi Paul with po401 code EGR is possible to have rich or lean or only a misfire will do the rich or lean condition?..
The hand pump at the EGR isn't going to detect a bad vacuum line.
Hello I hope you're doing well I'm having a hard time 😅 finding the egr valve on 2002 mazda b3000 now I'd wish I was a mechanic
Google will be your friend. I do not know that information offhand, sorry
just a question Paul how can I know what is the current flow of my test light? what if I use a 5 or 6 K homs resistor to low the current on my test light?
Disconnect the vacuum hose and at idle, there shouldn't be vacuum. At 1200 RPM'S, there should be vacuum. If not, check the vacuum purge valve. If the engine smooths out when you disconnect the hose at idle, it's NOT the EGR. Hook up a Mityvac to the EGR and pump up 5" of vacuum. It should hold. If it leaks down, it's the EGR valve. With the engine running at 1000 RPM'S, pump up 5" of vacuum. The engine should stumble. If not, the EGR is clogged or the passage is clogged or the EGR isn't opening.
nope, that's normal.
Hello Paul...Im looking at a MB 2001 S430 wiring diagram for the air suspension valve body, all 6 wires go to the pneumatic suspension control module and I dont see any feed wire fro fuse/power. Is this a powerside circuit as all go to the module? Thanks.
With the EGR closed both tubes should have exhaust gas pressure not vacuum.
Had a P0401 code for a long time on a Ranger 2.5L engine, replaced the EGR valve and now have a 0402 code...truck runs great, no issues! Any idea on next step??
your video was extremly helpful...my problem is after i applied the test light to activate the solenoid, my DPFE voltage dropped??? whats up with that? the reference voltage was present with both solenoid and DPFE...I have a 2000 f150 5.4... the truck stalled immediatly so the passages i assume are clear...help a brother out
What was the DPFE voltage at idle and when you energized the solenoid?
I have the same issue on my 2003 ford expedition. Can you help me out.
good day idol.... can i ask a question where can i get a trusted wiring diagram.....
Got a question that I pray u can ancer. Ive got a 2002 ford explorer, 4.6 V8, had a few days of sputtering off the line on harder accell. Then cel poped up, P0402. Excessive EGR flow. Bought a new dpfe sensor, no change. cleaned EGR as much as i could, no change, checked all vac lines, no leaks. Took off whole throtle body and cleaed it, along with checking and leaning all my plugs... no change.I have a smal hole in my mufler that is getting a little louder, any chance that could affect the egr?
Hi not sure if you can help i have a focus duratorq turbo diesel common rail 1.6l 2006/2007
I am getting egr valve stuck open p042e-62
egr control circuit low p0489-62
and also glow plugs control circuit p0380-61
I only get 5 volts from the wire on connector on egr but is that not meant to be 12v.
if I remove the top part of the egr and manually move the valve position sensor with my hand i can see on the diagnostic software forscan thst the egr valve position voltage goes up to 98.8% no idea what volts that is and when I let go it springs back and goes to 0 but still doesn't activate on car and just says low circuit a egr stuck open.
I have cleaned out egr it moves freely I have disconnected glow plug switch but still gets same codes also checked wires to it and connected ok
do you think the cause could be not enough power getting to the components as 5v seems low for a power line
I've even cleaned all earth up also
and sometimes I get u0073 can com bus fault under pcm
if egr is broke could that cause the other faults
all come under pcm codes
Thanks
REF 2009 Ford Explorer 4.0L EGR with 4 wire (vs 2 wire) connector (DPFE mounted on EGR assy). This EGR assy has direct connections to 4 electrical wires and 2 vacuum lines to control its functions. Can I test the 4 wires with a meter? Which is controlled by the PCM? Need pinout. Need troubleshooting for this rare EGR used on 2009 and possibly 2010 Ford Explorers with the 4.0L V6. HELP! THX!
I have a video on this design somewhere. Try my chapter 3 and chapter 8 playlists
The P0401 code shouldn't have anything to do with rich or lean conditions. Well, at least not at idle. I suppose if the EGR is not flowing at cruising speed when it normally is, there could be some fuel trim corrections due to the lack of EGR flow.
I wish I could run that test but I cannot turn the key on because I have a interlock device. Can only test with engine running. I am 77 on disability. I bought a probe, multimeter, t-pins, DPFE, vacuum pump and spent $500 on a GEM MODULE. just trying to keep my 98 F-150 alive until June and after 7 years with the interlock device I can't make it to the end in 3 months. If I turn my key on I have to start the truck. It runs great with 133k miles. I have this test equipment and can't use it. I even made a smoke machine I saw on UA-cam. I surrender.
i have a 2001 E150 4.2. code P0401. i did all this test with my modis, EVR works.(tested it and it idle rough but my DPFE sensor does not change volts) the most it changes is 1.3 maybe seen 1.5 while driving any suggestion. egr tube was clogged the little ones connects to DPFE sensor. clean that. also cleaned the other side going to intake. i came to a conclusion that the computer is no good
I did this exact test on my 98 ranger 2.5L and grounded the control solenoid and the engine ran rough. The DPFE and EGR solenoid(vacuum regulator) have been changed. I think the computer is not working. Is is time for a shop to test it with one of those snap-on scanners. I have that P0401 code
Could I find the wire going to the computer and check the integrity of the wiring from computer to connector?
What about p0406 04 Expedition 5.4 2v- EGR Circuit "A" High? Same tests? I've literally replaced everything with EGR and still get the code. I reset the PCM and it's drives fine. It drives fine with the code too. No rough idle. Only noticeable symptom is the brakes are shakey. The code is intermittent.
After watching and reading the comments I feel as if I should goto the pick and pull and get a handful of DPFE until one keeps the code away. Any other possible tests I can run or places to look?
Also, the pcv hose that runs from bank 1 to the vacuum solenoid- there's a "canister looking piece that ends up sitting behind the Throotle body/intake. Any idea of what that is/does and if it can fail?
Thanks in advance. Love the videos 🤙
With the key on engine off, give me voltage readings on all 3 wires of the DPFE sensor. Plugged in and backprobing. I can definitely help you if I have those numbers.
Have you ever seen an EGR tube where the orifice between the two DPFE tubes came loose and out of place? I have tried 3 new Motorcraft DPFE sensors, and voltage remains at 1 volt even though I have verified EGR flow! I have tried checking differential pressure testing and cant see any difference in pressures of the two tubes. My truck is a '98 Expedition. My scan tool is showing up to 90% EGR flow. I have the 5 volt reference voltage at the DPFE and have also traced the signal wire for continuity to the PCM and backprobed it, shows 1 volt whatever I try
if you pull a vacuum on the upper hose, with the key on engine off, the DPFE voltage should rise. Does it?
I have never seen a tube issue, doesn't mean it can't happen, but even if it was there, you should still see some movement of the signal when the EGR opens.
So you've confirmed that the EGR has flow and it just about stalls the engine when you open it right?
@@ScannerDanner Thanks for your reply. I'll try that. I can easily stall the engine using any of the methods described. Grounding the vacuum solenoid stalls the engine, but the test light wouldn't. I tee a compound gauge on both hoses individually and they dont seem to change from less than 1psi.
@@plmbrbob make sure your DPFE hoses are not reversed too.
@@ScannerDanner I replaced the EGR tube and it solved the problem. I have 2 engine monitors not ready; Catalyst and evap. Can I pass emissions or have to still do more drive cycles?
@@plmbrbob I think after 2001 you can only have 1 monitor not ready. Nice job man! I've never seen that before
I got a question my 03 expedition got p0405 code i energized it grounding it like that. the engine revs up it doesnt stall. Could it be clogged. Also it wasnt idling it would stall on its own
Good shit guy
how do you clear the code and what do you if all the parts in the system are new but it still runs like crap
Where should I plug my scanner to scan my ford endeavor
i'll see what i come up with. the control wire is viloet in color and it goes the the pcm. the other wire is white and red. That wire goes to a fuse.
So, why does it run bad when activated if it's a function...bad egr? Or out of normal process computer didn't expect
It is never opened at idle. I forced it to open when it shouldn't be ro test for proper flow
Scanner Danner, i did all this from memory and diagnosed an EGR solenoid as bad, but i just realized i used the test light backwards, or opposite the way you did. I hooked up my alligator clip to the needle and touched ground with my test light. The light worked and i didn't get the engine yo stall or want to die, thus i figured the egr solenoid must be bad. My main question though, is, Is it possible to uee the test light backwards or will it affect anything negatively? I've never thought of it until now. Hope you see this!
that test has two factors: 1. the resistance of the solenoid (current flow) 2. the resistance of the test light bulb you are using
You also MUST know if the circuit is being switched to ground or switched to power by the ECM. From memory these older Fords were all ground side switched, so test light to ground and touch on the control wire. If your light did not energize the solenoid, either you were not on the control wire or your test light wasn't able to carry the current flow needed for that solenoid to energize. You said your bulb was lit. Was it just as bright as on the feed wire?
@@ScannerDanner my bulb was lit when touching the control wire (the one that gets ground from PCM to activate the solenoid), but I didn't test it on the feed side with the light, only a multimeter, so I'm not sure if there is a difference in brightness. I ended up removing the piece, getting two wires and using the battery as a sort of way to power and test the solenoid ( I do not have a power probe). My solenoid didn't move so it also made me feel more confident in my diagnosis that my solenoid was bad. however it is a brand new solenoid ( a cheap one from rockauto). I recently replaced it, and check engine light gone temporarily, maybe a hundred miles. So I am wondering if (assuming I'm correct and the solenoid is bad) perhaps there is something else wrong that may have caused my solenoid to fail so soon, or maybe it's just cheap and I should use a different one.
As for the dpfe sensor, when unplugged I have ground and 2 5v wires. Then, when plugged in I tried removing vacuum hoses and grounding with the test light on the solenoid (what we mentioned above) but on my multimeter I saw no change in voltage at the dpfe sensor. The return voltage stayed at about .10 I believe. I was quite overwhelmed but I think I'm gonna have to redo all my tests. However, does the method on your videos require the vehicle to be operating temperature? I literally just learned about closer loop right after doing my tests so I'm thinking I may also have been wrong in everything because I did some with vehicle cold and others with vehicle warm. Sorry this is long, I am very grateful for your previous response. Have a goodnight sir!
I didn't unplug the hoses on the dpfe sensor at the same time as grounding the solenoid. I actually did them separately but neither changed the voltage on the sensor return wire. I was actually watching other videos as well to see if they had any other methods, which is where I saw this. I'm currently working on an 04 expedition 5.4l. I also used a vacuum pulp to pull vacuum on EGR with hose disconnected, and it held, so I think that my EGR is good according to another video. I hardly felt any suction from the hose on top though, and even when grounding the solenoid (which I am sure it was bad) I couldn't feel a difference in the suction. But at the hose connecting into the solenoid, the suction was 20hg easy on idle. I basically found that all my issues lead to the solenoid, but I am currently confused on the dpfe sensor. I actually don't know how it works really. Hope this wasn't all too confusing, I'm pretty confused myself haha. I'm thinking of making an enormous checklist with steps for me to knockout on a weekend off so I have time to think about it.
@@ScannerDanner also I know the basics of EGR and evap, but I've never had any real experience until now so I feel I may be missing somethings or perhaps using the wrong terms.
@@iwishtobetexan6060have you considered a plugged passage? When you manually open the EGR valve it should stall the engine
Hey so if my DPFE goes from 1.05 (V) with the ignition on and sky rockets to 3.89-4.00 (V) while the engine is running does that mean I change the DPFE sensor? The vehicle also completely dies out when I manually energize the solenoid.
So you see this voltage rise before even forcing the EGR valve to open?
@@ScannerDanner yes, with the vehicle in idle it doesn't have a steady ready of 1.05 (V) like yours.
hi i accidently sent voltage through volt tester by pressing the positive button while testing the pdfe sensor key off and disconnected from sensor. saw sparks at contact now my truck will not crank or start. checked fuses and they seem to be good . do you think the pcm is toast? also when connecting the scanner it wont connect thanks in advance for your reply
What kind of tester? Power probe? And what wire did you put 12v to?
power probe and wire that goes to de pdfe sensor and it was the top and bottom wire on the plug 😢
i replaced the pcm truck is running now 🙂
@@jas3203 so you cooked either the sensor ground circuits or the 5v reference circuit. The power probe is a dangerous tool! Sorry for your trouble
1997 ford f150 4.6 p402 code. changed the sensors, selinoid, vacuum lines. runs rough, after a few minutes p402 excessive egr flow again. problem solution... trade in for a Silverado. problem solved!
haha nice
When it is running rough, what happens when you disconnect the vacuum hose to the EGR valve?
Another test, while it is running rough, disconnect the EVR solenoid wiring connector only. Does roughness go away?
What is DPFE voltage at idle with everything plugged in?
I have a 2000 excursion po 401 po 402 replaced everything and still have the problem
What does the engine do when you open the EGR valve at idle? I showed how to force it open in this video. This is a critical step
Hey Paul I know you probably have answered this in other videos. But gotta ask that did you connect your test light lead into the positive terminal. Because it's a ground control circuit to energize the circuit?
He clipped the test light's wire to a ground point so that when connecting the test light probe to the control terminal of the solenoid valve, it would pull to ground, thus providing the current path from the "constantly hot" wire (the one on the right) through the solenoid coil, and then through the test light, and finally to ground. This simulates what the ECM's output does in this particular instance. The ECM has what us electronics types would call an "open collector" output which means that it pulls to ground when energizing the load it's driving. This is also sometimes referred to as an "active low" output.