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After removing the snorkel and adding the Lexx slip on, I installed the Power Surge from JD Jetting- to add some more fuel- and what a difference that made. Finally, I used a hole saw to install two nice holes in the top of the air box for good measure. It’s definitely made the KLR more fun on my freeway commute. It’s still not fast, but it’s not such a turd on the highway. Totally worth it.
Did your mpg increase, decrease, or stay the same? From what I hear, the JD part and performance air filter and exhaust combo ensures the KLR doesn't get bogged down on hills, with passengers, and it allows much better passing ability. I'd really like to see that triple combo with a 17t sprocket.
@@chadkline4268 The mileage did drop slightly because it is running a richer AFR. I’m getting about 43 mpg at sea level with knobbies, but I consistently run about 80mph on my 30 mile commute to work and I’m ok with that. It’s nice to be able to get around traffic and still have some throttle left.
I always improve airflow with anything I buy. Glad I found this! Just got my 23 KLR. Question, why drill with a hole saw? Why not just leave the door/plate on the intake box, off?
8:06 Nice video on cleaning air filter. Should be done after a day of riding gravel roads. As for removing the snorkel bad move. You will get 10 times more dust and dirt filling the airbox. For you highway only riders it would be easier to just leave the airbox lid off and accomplish the same thing. I just did a ring job on a 2013 that could not finish the Dempster highway because aitbox packed up with too much fine dust and air filter could not keep up.
the snorkel is IN the airbox it does not increase fording depth or water intake. the purpose is to decrease turbulent air but the design and material choice meant it made the hole it sits in smaller decreasing overall flow instead. Great idea but wrong materials. it does nothing to prevent dust either
After 1400 miles on my 22, something was just to vanilla about the bike. I bought a Delkavic 9in. Carbon, WOW!! total game changer. It just makes the bike so much better. I admit it's on the louder side of life, mainly on start up until it settles. You can't beat a Japanese single with a pipe, sorry KTM. thanks
Watch your head pipe now Swank! Without a tune and more fuel, she'll glow red hot and melt your coolant over flow tank--nipple for the line in particular. I'm running a JDJetting PS6X on my 22 klr with petty good results so far.
You can jet a stock bike by placing a pop rivet washer under the needle circlip, put in one size larger main jet & pulling the plug out of the low speed jet & then turning the screw one turn.
I like your videos. I've had a Himalayan for about 5 years and I've ridden it all over, but just yesterday I got my new Gen3 KLR. I have about 90 miles on it so I'm not hotdogging, but boy howdy does it like to go. I can tell it's so much more powerful and capable than the Himmy. After a few thousand miles to get acclimated, I might even try parts of the TAT.
A tune would definitely help I think, but it did really seem like just removing it made a noticable difference. Seems like it revs faster at lower speeds and maybe it's in my head, but it actually seems better on the top end too.
The biggest thing you can do for your 3rd gen KLR is modifying the flow rate for your fuel injectors on your bike's computer. Even if you don't modify anything else it can still increase performance.
Good stuff as always! I love my old klr, I bought it new in 09 and have done crap loads of upgrades to it, I also own a T7 and believe it or not I prefer the klr.
I have a simple and cheap mod to share, primarily for KLR's up to 2018 model year with out EFI, and likely would also help newer bikes with EFI to some extent. I almost always use REC 90 fuel in my 2015 KLR down here in South Florida but in hot weather and sitting in heavy traffic the bike started to misfire upon acceleration until it cooled down while riding. (I am an ASE certified auto tech). It drove me nuts at first, I replaced the ign coil, crank position sensor, to no avail. I finally surmised that it was getting vapor lock and the exhaust pipe runs real close to the carb (and the heat shield only protects your leg from excess heat) so as a "test" I decided to wrap the front exhaust pipe (along with the heat shield) with heavy duty aluminum foil from just behind where the front end of the heat shield, gave it 2 wraps with "shiny" side against the pipe and secured it with some stainless steel fishing wire in 4 places. And low and behold it cured the problem, and the bike even seemed to have more power and throttle response! This makes sense since heat in the air intake system (and fuel) is the enemy of horsepower, the cooler the intake air and fuel is the denser it is causing a more powerful combustion. to keep it from looking crummy I masked it off and painted the foil with high heat black paint, I purchased some exhaust pipe heat insulation "wrap" to replace the foil with but it's been 3 years and the foil has worked so well I still haven't removed it to use the exh. wrap instead. I am not sure but it looks like the exh. pipe on the EFI bikes is not as close to the throttle body as the carb is on the older bikes but anything to keep excess heat out of the intake air is a good thing and requires no other mods.
It's about time someone runs an article about their engine mods to the 650 that will really "Hot Rod" this KLR 650 engine half way to Europe . I have read over 6 or 8 articles regarding accessories etc for the KLR . Now , lets have some engine mods to increase power . We need the expertise from some of the "Prostock Drag Race Guys" for some really good ideas with engine mod's to increase power .
So what was the result of these modifications..power gains? Better/worst fuel mileage? Annoying residence or frequencies well driving ? Would you do it again or spend the money on suspension and rider comfort?
Gen 1 here, nice to know of any mods that might help. For the $, just about do anything, hard to beat the "cockroach" of motorcycles. Good one, thank you, 😅
Those a common mods to any bike. But I repeat myself (SORRY) but the "torque" header pipe was drastically reduced in diameter on the gen.3 F.I. manifold. I believe it was really reduced to increase velocity and heat on the 02 sensor. The 2018 header pipe is massive in comparison but has no 02 sensor. I was hoping you would have done this simple mod as it dramatically makes incredible change to this engine . It is a short stroke ,4 valve twin balancer engine . You must only drill a hole and weld a matching thread metric nut on top of the pipe and put the 01 in. Only loosen the right side fairing bolts up near the radiator to wiggle the fat pipe in. I spent 50 bucks on ebay f or a used pipe.. This whole system w Lexx pipe and your intake mods will double your fun. Then the 16 t primary gear makes this bike a F LYING PIG. NO illegal reflash required.
Haha one step at a time! These are quick and easy mods anyone can do. Where the header swap will be a bit more involved. If I go that route it'll be it's own video.
I'm not sure why but the stock fender actually doesn't bother me on this bike. A fender eliminator almost makes it seem like it's missing something to me.
That certainly can be true! However, it depends heavily on the mod itself and what bike/engine you're talking about. As a very general rule though, performance and longevity are often inversely related. Which is precisely why Motocross bikes make a lot more power than dual sports, but also require engine rebuilds after just a few of hours. Where dual sports can last upwards of 30,000 miles or more, depending on how they're ridden and taken care of. I always recommend speaking to a professional who has experience with performance upgrades.
@@SwankyCatProductions So why ride a KLR?! The 701 does everything better. The changes you made most likely reduced the legendary reliability of the bike (you leaned the bike, without doubt - more air means less fuel in mixture), could lead to backfires and increased fuel consumption. For what? 1-2 hp and a very loud bike?
So I went onto the RMC site for the Lexx but it only gives two options; Honda & Suzuki...👎🏾. Which did u choose for ur KLR?? *EDIT* : Never mind. I just figured out I had to switch the year backwards. I have a '24 ABS.
Hard to say you're getting actual benefit without a dynometer test. Personally i think the real benefit is in the weight savings. Especially with the slipon.
True, but it definitely feels better and pulls the front end up easier. So even if it's only perception, it certainly feels like reality to me, and I'm on with that.
Even just having a slip on is a better benefit as far as power goes. One will stand to gain performance on less restriction alone, as long as its paired up with intake work. I soley wanted mine for weight savings. The sound is just a benefit lol
Nope, two wheeled dyno works never came out with anything while I owned the KLR. I've heard there are other options for fuel adjustments but never invested the money to try them.
Thanks man! There's a link in the video description for them and I've got a few videos about them as well. New Brackets: ua-cam.com/users/shortsOPGht9YRCWQ?feature=share Lights: ua-cam.com/video/SwHZ_Cc34uM/v-deo.html
Leaning towards the front, going about 12mph, then snapping the throttle and leaning back while pulling up on the bars. Takes some messing around to get it right, but it works! Less gas in the tank is helpful too! Just cover that rear brake!!!
I appreciate (and like) your videos and you may very well know more than I do on this stuff but with EFi isn't anything you do to air mix will be compensated by the EFI and corrected/mitigated? That is the point of EFI, it manages changes in air fuel mix.
Thanks man! That's where I can't say for sure. Technically efi should be able to compensate for differences in air density (ie. high elevation). But I'm not sure how well it compensates for things like mods.
It compensates just a hair, but not enough with the modifications to intake and exhaust, because the Kawasaki fuel map will limit how much fueling it will get in the Open Loop mode that is tuned for stock engine. Open Loop mode happens at high engine loads, WOT, and above approximately 5.5k RPM. Exactly where you want MORE power.
youd need to retune the efi if the snorkle and slip on really help it breathe... you should open up the header fr if you really want to help the motor breathe
Drop a tooth on your front sprocket, worked wonders on my ZX12R. Works better than dropping teeth on the rear sprocket & you'll only lose around five miles an hour to your top end.
I've actually thought about going up and down a tooth several times. The extra low 1st gear and low end grunt would be nice in the woods, but lower rpm at highway speeds would also be nice. So instead, I just do nothing haha.
@@SwankyCatProductions Hey buddy, it's a cheap mod. for the return especially when passing a transport or several while you're loaded down. You might even get that front wheel up higher & longer? lol I like that color your bike is. One of the nicer colors I've seen.
@@SwankyCatProductionsI'm right there with ya lol I can bout stop on my 230m with out stalling its great on tight spots but I would love some more highway speed
You'll lose 6.7% from your top speed by dropping down a tooth. A better option on the KLR would be to go up one tooth on the rear sprocket and pick up a little extra torque while only losing 2.4% from your top speed.
So I bought a gem 1 that had holes drilled into the air box , but honestly it didn’t make a difference to the performance of the motor I ended up plugging them afterwards I removed the snorkel lol only for weight savings
I bought an ATV once that had the air box completely removed. Someone had attempted to make a K&N air filter attach directly to the carb instead. Between that and the HMF pipe, it preformed horribly lol. I bought and installed a used air box on it, best performance mod I've ever done lol.
It doesn't make a difference. The carb is the restriction. You could remove the airbox and you're still not going to flow more air than what the carb will flow. The snorkel is there to prevent the engine from ingesting water. It's unfortunate that UA-camrs still make videos without actually knowing what it's there for, but I guess if you need content for your channel then you do what you gotta do.
Technically if you add more air to the system you should also add more fuel. But as far as I know this isn't a big enough change to cause any issues. 4 stroke engines aren't nearly as finicky as 2 strokes, which can melt down due to a small pin hole air leak.
@@SwankyCatProductions also probably not a good idea to go near deep water with it removed. I think a larger snorkel mod would be better than removing it.
@@SwankyCatProductions I’ve been getting the front wheel up when I drop the clutch in first gear, I haven’t gotten the bike past 35 degrees any other way
Instead of removing the Snorkle, why not take a hole saw and open up the Air box door a bit? 2 or 3 inch hole, with a screen for added debris protection? I pick up my new 2023 KLR tomorrow.👍 If you don't like it, put a new cover on and then do the snorkle? Just a suggestion.
Because the airbox isn't the restriction. The bike is only going to flow what the carb or EFI system is designed to flow. You can remove the airbox if you want and you're still not going to flow anything more. The snorkel is in there for a reason and that is to prevent the engine from ingesting water by collapsing.
I'm not sure what you're referring to, but I was probably referring to a gen2 if I mentioned jetting. Gen3 would require an ECU flash or fuel map programming of some sort.
Kawasaki really should have made the engine like the BMW 650 single that produced substantially more power than the KLR engine. IIRC, the BMW bike could run regular gas, though it wouldn't be as powerful as it would be with premium. Am I correct? Anyone?
@@SwankyCatProductions That's true, it will last longer at it's current tune. I wonder how much longevity it would lose if tuned like the BMW 650 single.
@berttompkins9096 sure you can map the ecu and spend thousands of dollars on dyno time. Or just delete the 02 sensor so the tuner dose its job without the ecu constantly trying to lean out.
I get that mentality. I often find myself wondering why I'm doing performance mods on bikes like this, or even more so on my TW200. Obviously you won't make any huge improvements, but they're all easy enough to be enjoyable, if you enjoy tinkering that is. And that's really why we do it, just to see what we can get out of the bikes with minimal spend and minimal effort.
I wouldn’t touch a thing with the engine,exhaust or intake. Does nothing for adding power but does make it more unreliable and harder on fuel. Better off spending the money on suspension or anything else.
Partially agree with both statements here. This WILL impact reliability on the bike based on one thing alone... fuel. These run very lean from the factory just to pass emissions, and increasing airflow will lean it even more. Fuel programming after performing these mods will bring the reliability factor right back up.
@@berttompkins9096 lol are you kidding me? a slip on exhaust is going to save you any weigh that will be noticeable...lol yeah ok bud how about eating a salad instead. Now as for air flow. Go ahead and open it up and see what happens. These air boxes are designed from actual engineers that have to account for engine reliability and all riding conditions in all elements but you know better. If you want more power and a lighter bike go buy a DR650 that's over a 100lbs lighter and has more power and has a lower cost of ownership.
I've been a line mechanic for Subaru,Honda, Mitsubishi, Volkswagen. Format training beginning in THE USMC, and factory schools , ASE master L2 and Elite master from Mitsubishi. 38 years total. That means that I'm not an engineer and frown on most customer mods because they are ignorant. Yours also are. I'm telling you AND Swank to INCLUDE THE 02 sensor. Not REFLASH. THE STOCIOMETRIC ratio will be maintained at increased air flow as they have NO AIR FLOW METER. The 02 will do it in its basic cylinder and camshafts are left stock. Reliability will be improved as ultra lean mixtures will run upper piston rings and valve seats hotter. I'd also put an wired, oiled foam prefilter over the larger snorkel intake opening to keep debris out. I never remove intake air boxes you insinuate. These are even sound engineered as well as backfire designed. Ive drag raced 11 second VW beetles and Built 100s of engines and transmissions. Including 3000 Gt VR4s and Lancer EVOs. My kawasaki experience started in 1972 and I have a 2022 Z900 RS 50th aniversary with 3 other Kawis including a 2022 KLR adventure which I've.done these mods as well. Ive had MOTO GUZZIs that would give Many sport bike squids a spanking too . My advice was fully inline with the 3 laws of building horsepower on any machine and are sound. I love myth busting and give advice that won't hurt the machine , only the fool that thinks he knows it all.
@@berttompkins9096 LOL...Then you should know all about Resonant Air boxes, Dum ass. The idea that the snorkel makes for a significant impediment to air flow into the engine is questionable at best. Drilling holes to let in more air is exactly equivalent to drilling holes in your speaker cabinets to let out more sound. Removing the snorkel from your air box is the exact same thing as removing the port in your speakers, the tube that's carefully engineered to have just the right diameter and length to reinforce the bass on your speakers at low frequencies. By altering your air box in any significant fashion, you're most likely going to cost yourself three to five hp in the mid range, and gain nothing measurable at high rpms. Welcome to the 21st century.
No I disagree, I'm here because I just want to hear a guy talk about his KLR. I love this channel especially because he picked the KLR over the tenere 700 💪💦
Why are you even here Mr klepac? And what do you do to provide others with good info about something they like? That's the whole point of video's like this.
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After removing the snorkel and adding the Lexx slip on, I installed the Power Surge from JD Jetting- to add some more fuel- and what a difference that made. Finally, I used a hole saw to install two nice holes in the top of the air box for good measure. It’s definitely made the KLR more fun on my freeway commute. It’s still not fast, but it’s not such a turd on the highway. Totally worth it.
Yeah honestly that little airbox and filter is pathetic. I'd be tempted to cut the whole entire top off.
Did your mpg increase, decrease, or stay the same? From what I hear, the JD part and performance air filter and exhaust combo ensures the KLR doesn't get bogged down on hills, with passengers, and it allows much better passing ability. I'd really like to see that triple combo with a 17t sprocket.
@@chadkline4268 The mileage did drop slightly because it is running a richer AFR. I’m getting about 43 mpg at sea level with knobbies, but I consistently run about 80mph on my 30 mile commute to work and I’m ok with that. It’s nice to be able to get around traffic and still have some throttle left.
I always improve airflow with anything I buy. Glad I found this! Just got my 23 KLR.
Question, why drill with a hole saw? Why not just leave the door/plate on the intake box, off?
@@MaxwellReviresco doesn't appear to have a removable top cap like other Kawasaki's. I'm sure it could be made possible. That airbox is tiny.
8:06 Nice video on cleaning air filter. Should be done after a day of riding gravel roads. As for removing the snorkel bad move. You will get 10 times more dust and dirt filling the airbox. For you highway only riders it would be easier to just leave the airbox lid off and accomplish the same thing. I just did a ring job on a 2013 that could not finish the Dempster highway because aitbox packed up with too much fine dust and air filter could not keep up.
the snorkel is IN the airbox it does not increase fording depth or water intake. the purpose is to decrease turbulent air but the design and material choice meant it made the hole it sits in smaller decreasing overall flow instead. Great idea but wrong materials. it does nothing to prevent dust either
After 1400 miles on my 22, something was just to vanilla about the bike. I bought a Delkavic 9in. Carbon, WOW!! total game changer. It just makes the bike so much better. I admit it's on the louder side of life, mainly on start up until it settles. You can't beat a Japanese single with a pipe, sorry KTM. thanks
Haha yeah a good sounding exhaust makes all the difference for me!
Watch your head pipe now Swank! Without a tune and more fuel, she'll glow red hot and melt your coolant over flow tank--nipple for the line in particular. I'm running a JDJetting PS6X on my 22 klr with petty good results so far.
Hello, how was the install of the JD and which setting has had the best results? I know my KLR is running lean with the mods that I have done
You can jet a stock bike by placing a pop rivet washer under the needle circlip, put in one size larger main jet & pulling the plug out of the low speed jet & then turning the screw one turn.
@@lucifer0001where is the “c” clip? Is it inside the injector or the fuel pump? Gen 3’s are fuel injected.
@@Kevinhobbytime Bot reply.
I like your videos. I've had a Himalayan for about 5 years and I've ridden it all over, but just yesterday I got my new Gen3 KLR. I have about 90 miles on it so I'm not hotdogging, but boy howdy does it like to go. I can tell it's so much more powerful and capable than the Himmy. After a few thousand miles to get acclimated, I might even try parts of the TAT.
Thank you for conducting this highly scientific study. I see people in the FB pages remove the snorkel and was skeptical.
A tune would definitely help I think, but it did really seem like just removing it made a noticable difference. Seems like it revs faster at lower speeds and maybe it's in my head, but it actually seems better on the top end too.
@@SwankyCatProductions Can you post the dyno results?
The biggest thing you can do for your 3rd gen KLR is modifying the flow rate for your fuel injectors on your bike's computer. Even if you don't modify anything else it can still increase performance.
Good stuff as always!
I love my old klr, I bought it new in 09 and have done crap loads of upgrades to it, I also own a T7 and believe it or not I prefer the klr.
Nice, there is definitely something about it!
I have a simple and cheap mod to share, primarily for KLR's up to 2018 model year with out EFI, and likely would also help newer bikes with EFI to some extent. I almost always use REC 90 fuel in my 2015 KLR down here in South Florida but in hot weather and sitting in heavy traffic the bike started to misfire upon acceleration until it cooled down while riding. (I am an ASE certified auto tech). It drove me nuts at first, I replaced the ign coil, crank position sensor, to no avail. I finally surmised that it was getting vapor lock and the exhaust pipe runs real close to the carb (and the heat shield only protects your leg from excess heat) so as a "test" I decided to wrap the front exhaust pipe (along with the heat shield) with heavy duty aluminum foil from just behind where the front end of the heat shield, gave it 2 wraps with "shiny" side against the pipe and secured it with some stainless steel fishing wire in 4 places. And low and behold it cured the problem, and the bike even seemed to have more power and throttle response! This makes sense since heat in the air intake system (and fuel) is the enemy of horsepower, the cooler the intake air and fuel is the denser it is causing a more powerful combustion. to keep it from looking crummy I masked it off and painted the foil with high heat black paint, I purchased some exhaust pipe heat insulation "wrap" to replace the foil with but it's been 3 years and the foil has worked so well I still haven't removed it to use the exh. wrap instead. I am not sure but it looks like the exh. pipe on the EFI bikes is not as close to the throttle body as the carb is on the older bikes but anything to keep excess heat out of the intake air is a good thing and requires no other mods.
Huh that's really interesting! Is that why people wrap exhaust pipes? I've seen it all over the place but never knew the reason lol.
It's about time someone runs an article about their engine mods to the 650 that will really "Hot Rod" this KLR 650 engine half way to Europe . I have read over 6 or 8 articles regarding accessories etc for the KLR . Now , lets have some engine mods to increase power . We need the expertise from some of the "Prostock Drag Race Guys" for some really good ideas with engine mod's to increase power .
So what was the result of these modifications..power gains? Better/worst fuel mileage? Annoying residence or frequencies well driving ? Would you do it again or spend the money on suspension and rider comfort?
For under $500 the KLR can be a dirt road monster!
What's all included in the $500?
@@SwankyCatProductions Like mine. Desnorkled, a Delkovic pipe, and the JD tuner. A very noticable difference for under $500.00.
Welcome to the club mate
Gen 1 here, nice to know of any mods that might help. For the $, just about do anything, hard to beat the "cockroach" of motorcycles. Good one, thank you, 😅
Mines straight piped. I'm running the stock airbox
Sounds great ,not too loud.
Awesome video. Exactly what I was looking for
Glad you liked it!
Those a common mods to any bike. But I repeat myself (SORRY) but the "torque" header pipe was drastically reduced in diameter on the gen.3 F.I. manifold. I believe it was really reduced to increase velocity and heat on the 02 sensor. The 2018 header pipe is massive in comparison but has no 02 sensor.
I was hoping you would have done this simple mod as it dramatically makes incredible change to this engine . It is a short stroke ,4 valve twin balancer engine . You must only drill a hole and weld a matching thread metric nut on top of the pipe and put the 01 in. Only loosen the right side fairing bolts up near the radiator to wiggle the fat pipe in. I spent 50 bucks on ebay f or a used pipe..
This whole system w Lexx pipe and your intake mods will double your fun. Then the 16 t primary gear makes this bike a F LYING PIG. NO illegal reflash required.
Haha one step at a time! These are quick and easy mods anyone can do. Where the header swap will be a bit more involved. If I go that route it'll be it's own video.
Thank you Ben , I always enjoy your content
Thank you!
I am really surprised you haven't got the licence plate relocation kit.
I'm not sure why but the stock fender actually doesn't bother me on this bike. A fender eliminator almost makes it seem like it's missing something to me.
I want the 3rd gen, really like the green this year, but not available in Kanukistan😭
I was pretty disappointed they came out with green the year after I bought mine too 😂
I read that performance mods reduce longevity.
That certainly can be true! However, it depends heavily on the mod itself and what bike/engine you're talking about. As a very general rule though, performance and longevity are often inversely related. Which is precisely why Motocross bikes make a lot more power than dual sports, but also require engine rebuilds after just a few of hours. Where dual sports can last upwards of 30,000 miles or more, depending on how they're ridden and taken care of. I always recommend speaking to a professional who has experience with performance upgrades.
Kickass video brother 👊 great tips for the KLR
Thanks man!
Got that same pipe on my gen 2
So if your looking for more air flow into the box can’t you just leave that side cover off too????
You could, but that's substantially lower and more apt to suck in water, dust or other debris.
If you want a poweful dual sport, get a 701 Enduro
Uuuh, I already have one???
@@SwankyCatProductions So why ride a KLR?! The 701 does everything better. The changes you made most likely reduced the legendary reliability of the bike (you leaned the bike, without doubt - more air means less fuel in mixture), could lead to backfires and increased fuel consumption. For what? 1-2 hp and a very loud bike?
Did it affect fuel efficiency?
So I went onto the RMC site for the Lexx but it only gives two options; Honda & Suzuki...👎🏾. Which did u choose for ur KLR??
*EDIT* : Never mind. I just figured out I had to switch the year backwards. I have a '24 ABS.
Yep! They may still not have it listed for the Gen3, but it fits.
How does this affect range?.. miles per tank?
Great video!
Thank you!
Hard to say you're getting actual benefit without a dynometer test. Personally i think the real benefit is in the weight savings. Especially with the slipon.
True, but it definitely feels better and pulls the front end up easier. So even if it's only perception, it certainly feels like reality to me, and I'm on with that.
Even just having a slip on is a better benefit as far as power goes. One will stand to gain performance on less restriction alone, as long as its paired up with intake work. I soley wanted mine for weight savings. The sound is just a benefit lol
@SWANKY CAT you ever fin that ecm reflash you were talking about? Do anything with the fuel mixture at all?
Nope, two wheeled dyno works never came out with anything while I owned the KLR. I've heard there are other options for fuel adjustments but never invested the money to try them.
The snorkel prevents water from entering the engine.
🤯
Question : has anyone ever dyno tested ttheir bike before and after removing the snorkel? I think you'll be suprised.
Whith the Lexx slip on and snorkel removed have you looked at the spark plug to see if it running lean or rich ?
Is it just me or does the gen 3 bike looks higher or more front travel idk
Was you able to find a tune for the KLR?
What lights and mounts are those on your crash bar? Look awesome!
Thanks man! There's a link in the video description for them and I've got a few videos about them as well.
New Brackets: ua-cam.com/users/shortsOPGht9YRCWQ?feature=share
Lights: ua-cam.com/video/SwHZ_Cc34uM/v-deo.html
@@SwankyCatProductions thanks for the reply! I'll likely do the same thing when I get my tusk crash bars!
I must have missed the episode where you have a new KLR3. Apologies 👍🏼
I've been doing videos with other bikes to, but I picked this up at the end of the season 2 years ago actually.
how the heck are you able to wheely it, i can barely get the front off the ground
Leaning towards the front, going about 12mph, then snapping the throttle and leaning back while pulling up on the bars. Takes some messing around to get it right, but it works! Less gas in the tank is helpful too! Just cover that rear brake!!!
@@SwankyCatProductions hahahaha I've been trying it with a full tank 😅 I'll give it a go this weekend.
I appreciate (and like) your videos and you may very well know more than I do on this stuff but with EFi isn't anything you do to air mix will be compensated by the EFI and corrected/mitigated? That is the point of EFI, it manages changes in air fuel mix.
Thanks man! That's where I can't say for sure. Technically efi should be able to compensate for differences in air density (ie. high elevation). But I'm not sure how well it compensates for things like mods.
It compensates just a hair, but not enough with the modifications to intake and exhaust, because the Kawasaki fuel map will limit how much fueling it will get in the Open Loop mode that is tuned for stock engine. Open Loop mode happens at high engine loads, WOT, and above approximately 5.5k RPM. Exactly where you want MORE power.
@@OCLandspeeder interesting
youd need to retune the efi if the snorkle and slip on really help it breathe... you should open up the header fr if you really want to help the motor breathe
Drop a tooth on your front sprocket, worked wonders on my ZX12R. Works better than dropping teeth on the rear sprocket & you'll only lose around five miles an hour to your top end.
I've actually thought about going up and down a tooth several times. The extra low 1st gear and low end grunt would be nice in the woods, but lower rpm at highway speeds would also be nice. So instead, I just do nothing haha.
@@SwankyCatProductions Hey buddy, it's a cheap mod. for the return especially when passing a transport or several while you're loaded down. You might even get that front wheel up higher & longer? lol I like that color your bike is. One of the nicer colors I've seen.
@@SwankyCatProductions How do all of you KLR 650 owners like your bike? I'm thinking on getting one.
@@SwankyCatProductionsI'm right there with ya lol I can bout stop on my 230m with out stalling its great on tight spots but I would love some more highway speed
You'll lose 6.7% from your top speed by dropping down a tooth. A better option on the KLR would be to go up one tooth on the rear sprocket and pick up a little extra torque while only losing 2.4% from your top speed.
So I bought a gem 1 that had holes drilled into the air box , but honestly it didn’t make a difference to the performance of the motor I ended up plugging them afterwards I removed the snorkel lol only for weight savings
I bought an ATV once that had the air box completely removed. Someone had attempted to make a K&N air filter attach directly to the carb instead. Between that and the HMF pipe, it preformed horribly lol. I bought and installed a used air box on it, best performance mod I've ever done lol.
It doesn't make a difference. The carb is the restriction. You could remove the airbox and you're still not going to flow more air than what the carb will flow. The snorkel is there to prevent the engine from ingesting water. It's unfortunate that UA-camrs still make videos without actually knowing what it's there for, but I guess if you need content for your channel then you do what you gotta do.
What tires are you running ? I need some asap so i can get back on the trails
Will removing the snorkel harm the bike ?
Technically if you add more air to the system you should also add more fuel. But as far as I know this isn't a big enough change to cause any issues. 4 stroke engines aren't nearly as finicky as 2 strokes, which can melt down due to a small pin hole air leak.
@@SwankyCatProductions also probably not a good idea to go near deep water with it removed. I think a larger snorkel mod would be better than removing it.
No dumping the clutch, just power wheelies?
Correct, takes a little effort but especially after the mods it actually works fairly well.
@@SwankyCatProductions I’ve been getting the front wheel up when I drop the clutch in first gear, I haven’t gotten the bike past 35 degrees any other way
Ces quoi ta caméra svp
Instead of removing the Snorkle, why not take a hole saw and open up the Air box door a bit?
2 or 3 inch hole, with a screen for added debris protection?
I pick up my new 2023 KLR tomorrow.👍
If you don't like it, put a new cover on and then do the snorkle? Just a suggestion.
Because the airbox isn't the restriction. The bike is only going to flow what the carb or EFI system is designed to flow. You can remove the airbox if you want and you're still not going to flow anything more. The snorkel is in there for a reason and that is to prevent the engine from ingesting water by collapsing.
Jñb
What is the part number for that spark arrestor? I don't see it on RMATV. I mught also be an idiot though.
Sorry, I put the link for it in the description now!
Powaaaaaahhhh
Spot on video. Especially the part about being uneducated and uninformed. An engine is a system. Do you understand how FI and O2 sensing even work?
Re-jet? Its fuel injected
I'm not sure what you're referring to, but I was probably referring to a gen2 if I mentioned jetting. Gen3 would require an ECU flash or fuel map programming of some sort.
I have a gen 2 , and removed snorkle from the top......bitcxxxxx.
I think through the bottom is much easier.
Next to do is 2 cents or klx Jett
Kawasaki really should have made the engine like the BMW 650 single that produced substantially more power than the KLR engine. IIRC, the BMW bike could run regular gas, though it wouldn't be as powerful as it would be with premium. Am I correct? Anyone?
I think it could certainly use some sprucing up but my guess is that it's intentionally tuned as is so it lasts longer.
@@SwankyCatProductions That's true, it will last longer at it's current tune. I wonder how much longevity it would lose if tuned like the BMW 650 single.
next upgrade...
turbo..
Haha
Ive asked Kawi, why no H2. HAA
You gotta delete that o2 sensor and tune for actual gains
Wrong . 02 is not the enemy. Drag racers use them.
@berttompkins9096 sure you can map the ecu and spend thousands of dollars on dyno time. Or just delete the 02 sensor so the tuner dose its job without the ecu constantly trying to lean out.
I just ride mine 100% stock..it's never gonna be a Hayabusa.
I get that mentality. I often find myself wondering why I'm doing performance mods on bikes like this, or even more so on my TW200. Obviously you won't make any huge improvements, but they're all easy enough to be enjoyable, if you enjoy tinkering that is. And that's really why we do it, just to see what we can get out of the bikes with minimal spend and minimal effort.
@@SwankyCatProductions Americans should ride more n spend less $$..
I wouldn’t touch a thing with the engine,exhaust or intake. Does nothing for adding power but does make it more unreliable and harder on fuel. Better off spending the money on suspension or anything else.
Ignorant statement. Wieght savings alone are massive. Air flow matters as this is a short stroke 4 valve engine and will perform.
Partially agree with both statements here. This WILL impact reliability on the bike based on one thing alone... fuel. These run very lean from the factory just to pass emissions, and increasing airflow will lean it even more. Fuel programming after performing these mods will bring the reliability factor right back up.
@@berttompkins9096 lol are you kidding me? a slip on exhaust is going to save you any weigh that will be noticeable...lol yeah ok bud how about eating a salad instead.
Now as for air flow. Go ahead and open it up and see what happens. These air boxes are designed from actual engineers that have to account for engine reliability and all riding conditions in all elements but you know better. If you want more power and a lighter bike go buy a DR650 that's over a 100lbs lighter and has more power and has a lower cost of ownership.
I've been a line mechanic for Subaru,Honda, Mitsubishi, Volkswagen. Format training beginning in THE USMC, and factory schools , ASE master L2 and Elite master from Mitsubishi. 38 years total. That means that I'm not an engineer and frown on most customer mods because they are ignorant. Yours also are. I'm telling you AND Swank to INCLUDE THE 02 sensor.
Not REFLASH. THE STOCIOMETRIC ratio will be maintained at increased air flow as they have NO AIR FLOW METER. The 02 will do it in its basic cylinder and camshafts are left stock. Reliability will be improved as ultra lean mixtures will run upper piston rings and valve seats hotter. I'd also put an wired, oiled foam prefilter
over the larger snorkel intake opening to keep debris out. I never remove intake air boxes you insinuate. These are even sound engineered as well as backfire designed. Ive drag raced 11 second VW beetles and Built 100s of engines and transmissions. Including 3000 Gt VR4s and Lancer EVOs. My kawasaki experience started in 1972 and I have a 2022 Z900 RS 50th aniversary with 3 other Kawis including a 2022 KLR adventure which I've.done these mods as well. Ive had MOTO GUZZIs that would give Many sport bike squids a spanking too . My advice was fully inline with the 3 laws of building horsepower on any machine and are sound. I love myth busting and give advice that won't hurt the machine , only the fool that thinks he knows it all.
@@berttompkins9096 LOL...Then you should know all about Resonant Air boxes, Dum ass. The idea that the snorkel makes for a significant impediment to air flow into the engine is questionable at best. Drilling holes to let in more air is exactly equivalent to drilling holes in your speaker cabinets to let out more sound. Removing the snorkel from your air box is the exact same thing as removing the port in your speakers, the tube that's carefully engineered to have just the right diameter and length to reinforce the bass on your speakers at low frequencies. By altering your air box in any significant fashion, you're most likely going to cost yourself three to five hp in the mid range, and gain nothing measurable at high rpms. Welcome to the 21st century.
0:19 looks like awful CGI job
Nope, just a 360 camera.
just one comment, you talk way too much, quite tiring to get a substace out of it what is a pitty
I appreciate the honesty, thanks.
No I disagree, I'm here because I just want to hear a guy talk about his KLR. I love this channel especially because he picked the KLR over the tenere 700 💪💦
Why are you even here Mr klepac? And what do you do to provide others with good info about something they like? That's the whole point of video's like this.
@@SwankyCatProductions People like this don't deserve a response. Keep up the good work!
Talk is what we AMERICANS DO AND JOIN THE MARINE CORP TO BACK IT UP.
i love how the gen 3 got heavier. lol.