James Hardie Siding Details! How To Install It By Yourself! DIY
Вставка
- Опубліковано 4 жов 2024
- James Hardie Siding Details! How To Install It By Yourself! ALL OF OUR SOLAR EQUIPMENT...CLICK HERE: www.signatures... DIY HARVEST RIGHT FREEZE DRYER: affiliates.har... GROWERS SOLUTION Discount Code CLE21 www.growerssol...
Help our family by shopping through this Amazon link: www.amazon.com... Or Support Us With PayPal at countrylivingexperience@gmail.com
Get Your GrubTerra Treats Here: bit.ly/35CUV9Z Don't Forget Your Discount Code: CLE
Malco Siding Gauge Tool: amzn.to/3FoSgT5
Tools purchased for Our Solar Install:
Cable Stripping Knife: amzn.to/3pkWlOO
Klein Wire Stripper: amzn.to/3Ib3tWD
Klein Crimping Tool: amzn.to/3E8gk9P
Large Gauge Hammer Crimper: amzn.to/3ro7rVZ
Large Gauge Wire Cutter: amzn.to/3lqUiI2
Ferrule Crimping Tool with Ferrules: amzn.to/32RgJQj
Copper Lugs: amzn.to/3EfLRGK
1.5" Wrench: amzn.to/3o9gh8c
24" Breaker Bar: amzn.to/3rrMQAk
1.5" Socket: amzn.to/2ZIqnn7
Solar and electrical equipment used in this video:
Growatt SPF 5000 ES Off Grid Inverter (www.signatures...)
PV Disconnect Box (www.signatures... )
SolarEdge Midpoint Transformer (www.signatures... )
12 position electrical sub panel: amzn.to/3DVKZpZ
8 gauge THHN wire: amzn.to/3oUDpaI
6 gauge 6/3 romex wire: amzn.to/3DUMzZi
30-40 amp double pole breakers: amzn.to/3DWV2ej
Safety switch amzn.to/3m5HHdG
conduit as needed
mounting hardware as needed
Hardie backer board
Emergency Items We Own:
Butane Cooking Burner: amzn.to/3rbVmAj
Primus Camp Stove: amzn.to/3sLqvLc
Isobutane: amzn.to/3uLvJsr
Mr. Heater: amzn.to/3bUCLlV
Sunglife Survival Radio: amzn.to/3qbKD7L
Solar Cell Phone Charger: amzn.to/3q8Nezn
Crosscut Saw: amzn.to/3bW3eQc
Scythe/Snath: amzn.to/3bdCTOx amzn.to/2PvDVNr
Items Used To Start Our Seeds:
Jiffy Peat Pods: amzn.to/3rtqaMA
Metal Racks: amzn.to/3oYsU2T
Barrina Grow Lights: amzn.to/3tDW0IA
1020 Grow Trays: amzn.to/2LuMF4v
Heat Mats: amzn.to/36W6lpv
Rack Cover: amzn.to/3cRX2KZ
Humidity Domes: amzn.to/3rzED9S
Pot Labels: amzn.to/36TDm5K
2" Seed Starting Pots: amzn.to/36OZK07
Tools And Products We Own And Recommend For Your Homestead:
Dewalt impact driver: amzn.to/2ptNXBY
Granite Ware water bath canner: amzn.to/2CQquOn
Bear Grease waterproofing compound: amzn.to/2CNDBzO
Greenhouse film: amzn.to/2poM2yn
DB Smith pump sprayer: amzn.to/2Qr9o1m
Marbles small camp axe: amzn.to/2KsbuKT
Cold pressed orange oil: amzn.to/2KvaaXo
Sea-90 organic mineral fertilizer: amzn.to/2rK9cA2
Pure neem oil: amzn.to/33WTmR4
Products We Own And Recommend For Your Garden:
Flame Weeding Torch: amzn.to/2Zf2Is3
Worm Castings: amzn.to/2mboTh8
Neem Oil: amzn.to/2ZgBDka
Rock Phosphate: amzn.to/2TJyE2L
Chapin Garden Sprayer: amzn.to/2KHld06
Garden Ties: amzn.to/2HgYk1H
Professional Weed Barrier: amzn.to/2Hhm7hM
Greenhouse Film: amzn.to/2KG3Ahj
Thanks for stopping by and don't forget to come see us on:
Our Site: countrylivinge...
Facebook: / countrylivingexperience
Pinterest: / pins
Instagram: / countrylivingexperience
All links are affiliate links that we earn a commission from. There is no extra charge for you at all but it helps support our channel. - Навчання та стиль
You can always spot and EDUCATED individual. They are articulate, poised, fluid -- like you. GREAT video, no wasted time or information, no questions remained. THANKS!
Glad it was helpful.
Kind of irnoic. "You can always spot and EDUCATED individual." when it should say "you can always spot an EDUCATED individual."
My husband replaced our old siding with hardie plank boards. Absolutely love it.
That is awesome!
Thank you for sharing. Might be a good idea to seal the ends. Cement board will suck up water. Something else to consider is nailing the siding to vertical furring strips to get air flow behind the siding to assist in drying. This would require a bug barrier.
Wife and i installed that stuff on our house about ten years ago we love it holds paint great and have had zero problems with it so much better than plastic or aluminum siding and about the same cost.
Awesome!
This video deserves more views, nciely explained in such an easy to undertand manner for even newbies like me.
Much appreciated
Thanks bud, i start a wjole house tomorrow, now im confident im doint it right👍
You're welcome
One day we two will have a Homestead until then bless you guys and we wish you the best of luck and everything that you’re doing for taking the time to make a video
I pray that you will find your homestead soon.
My 2019 Hardie instructions say but the joints in moderate contact with the flashing card behind.
Great videos, very helpful!
Glad it was helpful
Before this video I don't have idea how to replace a bottom portion of my harding ,but now I do thanks if is posible to show a video how replace just the bottom part I really appreciate it.
Thanks a lot for you help.
You're welcome
Great instructional video. Thank you.
You're welcome
Your illustrations are great. Few points that you brought up that James hardy did not suggest butt joint is a problem at all. They even recommend it because the plank does not expand or contract. If you have a wood panel for the house, you can randomly nail the planks. I thank you for your video. The price of Gecko runs from 28 - 86 but the one you are using is 19 to 25 as of today per the websites.
Thanks
Your doing a fantastic job !!
Thank you so much!
Well done, about to attempt siding my home with hardie.
Thank you. Good luck
Thank you so much for sharing the details and giving us close up visuals. I'm assuming it's your wife who is holding the camera. Shout out and thank you to her for taking her time to be detailed and zooming in to show us the tiny details(for example at the point when you say " 1/8 gap from our trim and our siding, our nail is about an inch from the top" and "hanging a little below the starter strip" ) seriously, thank you. I appreciate the honesty, sincerity, and the explanation.
Thank you Kathy. Glad the video was helpful.
I am the one moving the camera all around. My wife said thank you anyway though.
@@CountryLivingExperience But who got the close ups? Give a shout out to your wife. Tell her you love her.
You are a very good explainer! calm and to the point - well done - God bless !
Thank you. I appreciate it.
You can use peel and stick tape or tar paper for butt joints also
Excellent video! Thank you! Most videos right now are incomplete, or a someone pointing at stuff from their phone. Great production value!
Thank you so much. Glad it was helpful.
Excellent tutorial! Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
Bruh you’re a great teacher
Thank you
Very helpful video. All the details needed to install the siding.
Thanks!
Glad it was helpful.
Great idea to use pt for trim. Nice savings. Aluminum flashing, however, should not be in contact with it with your drip caps, etc., as it will corrode rather quickly due to the extra copper in the treated wood. Great video. Thanks.
Will it corrode galvanized flashing?
@@CountryLivingExperience you need to use copper flashing for PTit comes in a roll
@@CountryLivingExperience yes
@@Astrnauted what is "PT" in your comment above?
@@MonicaSmith Pressure Treated
Great info. Your explanation gave me a very clear understanding on this product. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
Very well explained. Thanks.
You're welcome
I just picked me up some lengths of this stuff for free at the local waste transfer station for FREEEEE! It's gonna be the shell of my wood shed. Finest looking wood shed on the block I bet! : D
Free is the best price!
Thank you for your insight. Two Q's: 1.) How do you cover the nails on the top layer of siding? I haven't seen anyone cover that issue in any video. 2.) I couldn't quite catch how to treat the top of the block (or a window, for example). Do you put an "L" shaped flashing piece above the top trim board? Thank you! The flashing between joined pieces helped.
You're welcome. 1. you can either bring it to the underside of the soffit and put a piece of trim on top or place that trim first like on the sides and butt that last piece into it. You have to make a very precise cut to do that though. 2. Yes, just use a piece of z flashing or bend one yourself for above any opening/block out.
Very informative and you explain very well. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you kindly for sharing mate 🙏
You’re welcome
Another great video. I am considering hardy board for a shed on my Texas property. I am replacing the external sheeting (OSB) and may use hardy board as a Wayne’s coating for the lower portion. I don’t have a good idea on how to keep the OSB dry but maybe flashing and caulking are involved. By the way the existing siding is vinyl. Thanks and all the best from north Texas.
You’re welcome.
Yes, you’ll need flashing and caulk to transition materials.
I see in the diagram you post not to caulk certain areas on the wall; this is to allow condensation to run out. I have to redo all my soffit and siding next year as well as replace much of the wall sheathing on the garage. I just replaced the back door to the garage and had to rebuild the entire rough opening and 90" of sheathing because of termite damage. I'll do the remaining 18' next spring along with the soffit and siding. For now I just put back the original siding.
Cool
Well explained....good job. Now I'm going to do my siding..
Awesome. Thanks
@@CountryLivingExperience keep doing more videos I'll keep watching.... good job and I'll see you soon
I didn't see the nailer and type of nails you used in the description. Very helpful. I have my trim done, studs marked, about ready to buy materials and go.
I used a 21° framing nailer with 2.25" plastic ring shank nails.
@@CountryLivingExperience I was so happy to see you using a framing gun... I have successfully used a 21 degree framer with 2 1/4 ring shanks. However I started questioning myself.
@@distanceman8147 I am happy see him using it to I’m new to hardie board couldn’t figure out what gun to use other than seeing coil gun and I knew I wouldn’t use that again so this makes my day
Thank you for the great video. I have never done hardie board siding and your video was very information and kept my attention throughout as you explained every step. I have done one wall on my well house and will finish the rest in the next few days.
Awesome. Glad it was helpful!
I would like to see how to cut and go around the block-out. Thanks for the video.
Excellent presentation and tutorial!👍
Thank you
I was needing this info, thank you Mr. Eggold, very helpful.
You're welcome
i caulked the trim board ends first so it’s sealed as the hardy board is installed and it fills the gap nicely. i’m not a pro. it just made sense to me.
If you gap it properly, caulking at completion is sufficient.
This was very helpful. Thank you very much!
Glad it was helpful!
You should have shown us how you worked around that electrical block.
Muchas gracias sr! You are the besst
De Nada
Thank you for such a clear explanation.
You're welcome
Hey man awesome video, thank you for sharing the knowledge.
You’re welcome
This was very informative. Thanks.
You’re welcome
Great job.
Thank you!
Nice video... thanks. Go green! :)
Thank you. Go White!
Great tips and reminders. Solid work
Appreciate it!
Your video was a huge help, thank you.👍🏼✌🏼🇺🇸
You’re welcome
Thank you for sharing you knowledge!! You make it very easy to understand. You got a new subscriber
You're welcome
Thank you for useful information.
You're welcome
Excellent tutorial brother
Thank you
Decent job and install tips but needs a few tweaks. Metal flashing at butt joints is expensive and requires more prep. Metal will corrode with direct contact with a cement based product, have to paint back of boards that come in contact with the flashing to prevent that from happening. A far cheaper alternative is roofing felt, either 15 or 30# is a better way to go. But if you have tyvek wrap left over that is the absolute perfect choice, it's paper thin, breathable if water somehow manages to get in (hurricane driven rain)so it can evaporate, and it's already paid for and on site. Cut a bunch of pieces and you're good to go. Framing nailer is a bad idea, teeth on the end that hold onto wood mar and or crack the siding very easily. High wind areas required double nailing so will see nails and finish on lower edge of the boards. Don't want teeth marks on your finished siding.Plus the diameter of framing nails is way too large for this siding. Siding gun or hand nail with. 092 or close to it in diameter is highly recommended. I also highly recommend stainless ring shank in high humidity area like Florida where I live. Pricey but a guarantee that will last as long as the siding. And lastly gecko gauges are worth their weight in gold, amazing product and adjustable in 1/4" incrimates for various widths of siding. Picked up a set online for $60, wish I knew them years ago as you don't need to pay a helper to hold the other side of the board, can be done with one person and the magical tools.
So, do you recommend caulking between butt joints?
@@tyyoung4104 Hardie says don't caulk them, just put flashing behind them and butt them up close.
Perfect,thank you
You’re welcome
Can you please make a quick video how to cut the material around obstacles, I kind of wanted to see how you did that and the final results, I have a job coming next month , and I can definitely use your help, thank you
They are just simple cuts. Every job will be different. Just cut as you need.
Helpful vid buddy, thanks for sharing!.
Glad to help!
I wish my siding contractor had watched your videos first!
Many contractors don't care.
Thank you so much!!!
You’re welcome
Hi, thankyou for your video. So, when two ends are butted together, is the gap left as is, or do you caulk it?
No need to caulk the gap. Just put flashing behind it.
Fine job!
Thank you
Go green, great video
Thank you. Go White!
Great video! Thank you
Thank you!
Great video! #gogreen!
Thank you! Go White!
Very good video. Learned few things. I replaced my wood boards with Hardie cement fiber lap siding in 2011-2012. I used screws instead of nails cause nail gun was bit expensive however love it. it is still perfectly intact as day one and i think it'll stay same.
Awesome
I'm thinking of using screws aswell. Have you noticed any issues with having used screws when the temperature fluctuates?
@@LSDMTHSEE No. So far i did not face any issue. Everything is still intact as day one.
great job, thank you.
Thank you
Great video!! I'm getting ready to do this but had 2 questions:
1. I noticed you're not using a coil siding gun. What's your setup for gun and nails?
2. How did you handle the very top plank so the nails don't show?
Thanks.
I have a framing nailer with 2.5" plastic ring shanks.
Mine show on the top. Paint to hide them.
Or you could cut something similar to the starter strip to hide the nails, that's what we do when we do siding ( if soffit is already installed). But usually we don't have to worry about that because soffit with J channel will be hiding it.
I wish you would have showed how to trim around the windows, do we leave 1/8 gap around the window for caulking ?
Yes, leave a small gap for caulk.
Nice vid. But Hardie does say to butt the joints, and to not leave spacing. Hardie doesnt expand
Great video! I may be attempting to install Hardie on a few sides of my home in the near future and this video gave me a lot of helpful information. Any chance you have a video on how to prep/ install Tyvex etc. before putting the siding up? Or is there a video you can recommend?
Thanks.
Glad it was helpful. I don't have a video on installing the Tyvek. It is easy. Just staple it to the wall sheathing. Layer it starting from the bottom of the wall and working up.
Thanks for the info
You’re welcome
DUDE! This was an awesome video. Im building a house and the contractor wants about 5k to hang these boards. Im thinking if I just take some time off of work I can spend a week or so and do it myself. Thanks!
Cool. Glad it was helpful.
Was a week to do yourself a good time estimate?
Great video!!
My wife and I just bought an old farmhouse with 7 acres and some outbuildings. There was a guy who owns a concrete business rented from the previous owners, and was removing his equipment when he approached me to ask if I was interested in something.
Turns out it was a bad pallet of hardy board!
The wife had specifically mentioned, not wanting to use vinyl siding when it came time to close up the house, so the timing on this was perfect.
He had gotten it for a good deal, and so he gave us an even better deal so he didn’t have to move it…score!!!
Anyway…what are you nailing these up with?
Thank you.
We used a nail gun with 2 1/4" plastic ring shank nails.
thank you
You're welcome
When we had our house built we opted for Hardiplank.
We live in an area where there is a high fire danger.
The Hardiplank siding actually lowered our premium for our home owner insurance.
We’re very impressed with it.
Absolutely. That is a great feature of cementitious siding products.
We used Hardie on every house I designed sans one that had a special wood siding.
That’s awesome to hear! I’m one of a few operators that actually make Hardie siding and trim in Alabama! Glad to hear you’re impressed!
@@CigarVice We recommend Hardi Plank to everyone who we know are building any structure.
It lasts forever and won’t burn.
Great video!
I am using hardie board as a rake trim board and nails will be exposed,
What is the best kind of nail you recommend and or do I need to counter sink and caulk over the nail?
Thanks in advance!
Hardie board is too thin to countersink. Hardie trim would be better as you can countersink a finish nail. Caulking the nails in all situations is good practice.
what kind of foundation is that??? looks like a manufactured home on blocks. I have installed miles of this probuct and built show displays for James Hardie products. You did a great job. Now one thing I would suggest is that you intall it with a rain curtain. Also tape all of your weather barrier overlaps and seams.
Thank you.
This is a common foundation in rural Texas. It is technically pier and beam but the piers are just block on grade. On the addition, there is a small poured deep pier of 24". This is a traditional stick framed house.
@@CountryLivingExperience thanks for the reply. Your work is very clean
Thanks bro
You’re welcome
I got Nichiha instead of hardy, but I was wondering if they actually shrink and expand with temperature fluctuations, so two days ago, when it was 7°F outside I measured the length of one of the planks and it measured right at 12ft. I don't believe it shrinks at all. To give you an idea of how much materials shrink, 6061-T6 Aluminum, 12 ft. long would change 5/32 of an inch between 90°F and 7°F. Polycarbonate would change over 3/8" over the same temperature range for 12ft.
It's not the hardy that shrinks and expands its the wood around it.
How do you determine when to chalk the first line
How do you hold the very first bottom board by yourself? Also how do you replace the bottom board if it gets cracked or broken?
Thanks.
If a bottom board gets cracked you will need to face nail a new one on if you choose to replace it. As for holding it myself, I just do....it is not that heavy.
Great video, lots of great info. I need to replace some lower boards on a part of my house that the upper boards were replaced. Since I will blind nail them, how would I nail the top board after I put it under the ones already there?
You're welcome. That may be a challenge. You will either have to lift up the board above it to see if you can blind nail the last one. If that does not work, you will have to face nail it and cover up those nails with sealant.
If staying 1” from edge of boards - where do you nail butt joints. 2” need with only 1.5” available.
What does the block out do? It looks like it needs flashing behind it too. Good tip on the Malco things
It is easier to cut around and flash because it is square. Yes, you will need flashing on the top of it as well.
Thank you so much! My siding was done incorrectly and it’s warping , falling downward and looks horrible. It’s pulling away from the house where it meets window trim and leaving itself a good 1/2 “ off the house in those areas. I can’t afford new siding . Can I take it all off and start over ? Shouldn’t the bottom corners be nailed some way too ? The people who did the siding on my addition put screws in the bottom corners in some areas and it’s held up beautifully . It was actually done a good 5 years prior to the siding that’s falling off and warped . The addition siding doesn’t have gaps around the trim either . The main part of the house where it’s all warped and falling off has the proper gap spaces where it meets the trim and butt joints . So I can’t figure out why the main house part looks so hideous. I desperately want to fix this myself. Can’t afford help and can’t afford new siding . My husband tried to fix a couple of spots and cracked the corners off , making it much worse .
You're welcome.
It is not common practice to screw down the corners. That is not in any instruction from the manufacturer as far as I am aware. It will de difficult to take it off and start over because you will have to be extremely careful not to crack the siding boards getting them off. Maybe they used an inferior product instead of Hardie board.
I need to replace 3-4 of the lowest Hardie boards on the back of my house. How do I deal with the top layer (which would have to fit under the layer above it? I mean, how would I nail it on when the layer above it is already there, covering up where I would need to nail?
Greetings!
1) How did you make the cut around the block for the electric penetration? Does the board go up to the side of the block?
2) For windows, do you recommend installing the window trim first and then installing the boards up to the edge of the trim?
Thanks!
Hello.
1. I cut as needed. Every cut is going to be unique for everyone. The siding board goes up to the side, yes.
2. Yes, install the window trim first and then butt the siding up to it.
I'd like to see how you put the siding to the wall yourself and then nailed it yourself and the put the next run on by yourself. That's what I'm up against. That stuff is awkward and heavy for one person to do it yourself. Takes 2 to tango-
Go Spartans ! NATIVE
Go Green!
Overall a good video, but, you make the same mistake as every other how to cement board video. Many want to know about the material behind the homewrap. Did you use plywood, di you use foam insulation< what kind, how much, why? For a partial video, you did a good job.
@tholi1052 depends on the house construction. If it's wood frame, then plywood with underlayment(tyvex). If CBC, you can use batten strips.
Me gustas porque a todos les respondes ,muy bueno de tu parte,una pregunta en las uniones se pone un flashin galvanizado,puedo poner silicona por detrás entre metal y el siding,gracias use google traductor
You can put some silicone but it must only be at the top of the flashing piece. It water gets behind it, it must drain out of the bottom.
Question: Can you install this product over old stucco?
Potentially. You may need longer nails depending on how thick the stucco is. Also, existing stucco needs to still be water resistant and in "decent" condition.
Can they be screw on a metal? As i want only to make a good passage in my outdoor shelves.
Could I use my 21* degree framing gun?
Yep
Hello, thx for info. Question, did you leave block of wood at conduit? Block of wood, another butt joint cut out on next board?
Convenient that he ended the video right before needing to cut around the block out. Would've been nice to see it instead of just being explained. Thanks.
Absolutely agree and no response to you comment with a follow up
Interesting how free instruction and sharing of knowledge gets criticized
@@mc1738 constructive criticism is important, if he sees the comment he’ll do better in the future
Yeah, I was hoping to see how he would do that detail.
It didn’t go well that’s the reason obviously. I kept thinking he was going to start calling it Jimmys siding. James Hardy Siding nope never heard of iii…..Oooooooohhhhhjhj, you mean Jimmys siding, yeah we call him Jimmy, that’s what all his friends call him, whenever we need it we just call up the warehouse and say yeah two bundles of ole jimmy boys siding… warehouse? oh uh, yeah the ole warehouse, depot something… Home shop or something, oh Home Depot, yeah that’s sound right ole Jimmys shop. Lmao. same guy who lets everyone working at a restaurant he knows the owner and the owner is like who??
When you are leaving the expansion gaps and putting flashing behind the two butted boards, I assume you are caulking in that gap just like you would at the ends meeting the trim. Correct?
No. Those butt joints in the middle of the wall do not get caulked at all. It is the flashing that diverts the water out.
So you can look at a level, but you don't bother to read it! What's wrong with starting parallel and ending parallel?
Great video ! What size nails do you recommend again?! Thanx
Thanks. 2 1/4" plastic ring shank
I bought air shears to cut hardie board for my project. They cut like butter and no harmful dust. Might have been from Malco?
Cool
Hi, if you have OSB behind where you're putting up the Hardie plank, is it easy to get the siding tool out? What are the tricks to Sliding that little puppy out. Thank, DJ
Very easy. I have OSB behind mine.
I've watched several of these videos and most of them suggest putting a spacer to create an air gap between the siding and the moisture barrier. Is there a reason you didn't?
That is an option but is not necessary. It can help dry out the cavity faster behind the siding if water gets back there. If you add those furring strips, you will need to put a bug shield down at the bottom under the row of siding closest to the ground.
For your joint flashing, could you use flashing tape?
Metal flashing is best
Thanks. Helpful.
But the news tells me that there is no inflation as you mentioned.
lol. You’re welcome
Lol