Thank you so much. That video was so helpful and allowed me to build my own (albeit to Australian specs). The way you used the handles to create space for the frame edges was genius!
Saw an experiment dont by a wood worker. He glue white wood glue to the butt end grain of a 2" x 2", clamped them (no screws or nails) for 24 hrs. When the glue dried, he did a stress test by trying to break the joint. The wood broke about an inch away from the glue joint. So you would be surprised with the magic of glue. All I use is Brad's to hold the wood in place until the glue is dry, never had a joint break yet.
Pocket holes are nice, but with the size of the box all of the pockets are on the outside. 18 gauge crown stapler works great for a small box like this, and if you are using half way decent wood glue the box will rot before coming apart at the same. If you make the boxes out of advantech you lose any weigh savings, but the wood will last a very, very long time.
Shannon Wyatt - great suggestion. I will have to look into using advantech for future projects as this equipment is outside for 365 days a year. The more durable - the better!
Cool! I need to work on making these. I think Shannon had a good tip, but I think you can still fix these by filling the pocket holes. New sub, good job!
I just built standard langstroth boxes with pocket holes and wood glue. I'll see how they hold up. I just don't see the need for box joints as I've been using pocket holes for years. Very strong esp with the glue.
It is a very Very good details size information of nucleic box that's very useful to new beekeepers. I think a another video on Apic cerena bee box size details is too useful.
Looks good I like to use 1x8 pine for ends and bottom this allows for solid nailing and may cost little more but will last longer and I put them together with 6d box nails and they work well for many yrs.
If you want to fill the holes from the pocket screws but don't want to fuss with buying or making plugs, Lowes & Home Depot both sell a large can of rockhard water putty for around 10 bucks & a can will easily fill all the pocket holes on 12 nucs. Press it in with a spatula, sand it smooth & paint & there will be no external holes for water to sit in and lead to rot.
Interesting, but 1) staples are better than pocket holes 2) boardman feeders induce robbing, so use them only for water 3) telescope roof needs inner cover, otherwise hard to remove
Is using 1/2" plywood strong enough still if you want to stack the boxes later, or stack a mini-super or two on them later? And its been a bit of time since this video... I wanted to ask if between then and now the extra ledge for a jar feeder paid off and was worth it? How were the results? Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge.
I personally don’t use an inner cover as I am only using my nucs for 4-6 weeks when I do splits and then I transfer them to hive bodies. I think an inner cover could be a good option/addition to this project but it is not required for the nuc to perform its function. Good luck this season!
Isn’t it a problem to be attracting wasps and hornets and foreign bees to the landing board of a nuc? sounds like it would be an issue for the guard bees to be constantly challenged by visitors. I dn’t keep bees so not any kind of experienced keeper!
Brad R - the pocket holes on the outside work well on the front and back of the nuc, as it’s difficult to fit a drill on the inside with such tight dimensions. I did not face screw it as I am using 1/2” plywood and it splits easy. Best of luck to you!
Thank you so much. That video was so helpful and allowed me to build my own (albeit to Australian specs). The way you used the handles to create space for the frame edges was genius!
Saw an experiment dont by a wood worker. He glue white wood glue to the butt end grain of a 2" x 2", clamped them (no screws or nails) for 24 hrs. When the glue dried, he did a stress test by trying to break the joint. The wood broke about an inch away from the glue joint. So you would be surprised with the magic of glue. All I use is Brad's to hold the wood in place until the glue is dry, never had a joint break yet.
Will be cool if you could add metric system as well in the following videos.😊
Pocket holes are nice, but with the size of the box all of the pockets are on the outside. 18 gauge crown stapler works great for a small box like this, and if you are using half way decent wood glue the box will rot before coming apart at the same. If you make the boxes out of advantech you lose any weigh savings, but the wood will last a very, very long time.
Shannon Wyatt - great suggestion. I will have to look into using advantech for future projects as this equipment is outside for 365 days a year. The more durable - the better!
Cool! I need to work on making these. I think Shannon had a good tip, but I think you can still fix these by filling the pocket holes. New sub, good job!
I just built standard langstroth boxes with pocket holes and wood glue. I'll see how they hold up. I just don't see the need for box joints as I've been using pocket holes for years. Very strong esp with the glue.
It is a very Very good details size information of nucleic box that's very useful to new beekeepers. I think a another video on Apic cerena bee box size details is too useful.
Looks good I like to use 1x8 pine for ends and bottom this allows for solid nailing and may cost little more but will last longer and I put them together with 6d box nails and they work well for many yrs.
If you want to fill the holes from the pocket screws but don't want to fuss with buying or making plugs, Lowes & Home Depot both sell a large can of rockhard water putty for around 10 bucks & a can will easily fill all the pocket holes on 12 nucs. Press it in with a spatula, sand it smooth & paint & there will be no external holes for water to sit in and lead to rot.
Interesting, but 1) staples are better than pocket holes 2) boardman feeders induce robbing, so use them only for water 3) telescope roof needs inner cover, otherwise hard to remove
Is using 1/2" plywood strong enough still if you want to stack the boxes later, or stack a mini-super or two on them later?
And its been a bit of time since this video...
I wanted to ask if between then and now the extra ledge for a jar feeder paid off and was worth it? How were the results?
Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge.
Can you show step by step on making the nuc. Is it 5 rail orb less. Thank you
Why the length of the upper lid must be longer than the length of the box body?..can I make it to fit the size properly? 😁💐
Have you stacked these before?
Nice video.I made two in three hrs.Question is about inner cover.Don,t you use it?
I personally don’t use an inner cover as I am only using my nucs for 4-6 weeks when I do splits and then I transfer them to hive bodies. I think an inner cover could be a good option/addition to this project but it is not required for the nuc to perform its function. Good luck this season!
can you just put screws in from the side or outside and not do pocket holes?
Great. Do you have the dimensions for a medium size nuc? No ventilation at the top?
Are they for sale?
too funny click on kreg jig and tight bond glues come up.
Isn’t it a problem to be attracting wasps and hornets and foreign bees to the landing board of a nuc? sounds like it would be an issue for the guard bees to be constantly challenged by visitors. I dn’t keep bees so not any kind of experienced keeper!
My adventure with the tree began with projects from Woodprix.
Pocket holes are pointless if they are on the outside why not just face screw it
Brad R - the pocket holes on the outside work well on the front and back of the nuc, as it’s difficult to fit a drill on the inside with such tight dimensions. I did not face screw it as I am using 1/2” plywood and it splits easy. Best of luck to you!
I dont recommend this long landing board , nonway pluse those pocket holes are weird
But thanks for the video
Hey you could be inventive and put a couple mini chairs 🪑 and a umbrella
click bait video