Im running an s475 with the 1.32 housing. over stock on my stock fuel lb7. And running a stage 5ppe trans with a 1056 converter. My egts are just over 600 cruising at 65-70 and im seeing around 1460° at wot on my hottest tune. Which is a hot tune because of my limited injector. But the drivability is amazing and it turns on when you tickle the pedal. Great videa. Very informative and well spoken.
Rip it out then get sheet metal to make a smooth finish and painted to match!!!! Ryan also lead me to get the 64MM since I was daily driving and wanted to tow with it as well. Down to earth dude extremely helpful!
Starting in again on my truck after its been sitting for the past three years, looking at doing a gtx4709r as the primary over the stock with batmowheel and 10blade turbine. Lots of work and money ahead. Truck has 685k+ on stock trans and engine (this was my mountain milk truck, also cannot wait to get the reefer box out of the bed). Car projects moved to back burner as i need a tow rig for my my upcoming move. Thanks for the inspiration!
Doubtful. On the interstate, converter is locked regardless of in tow haul or not. Slightly higher line pressures in transmission have zero affect on egt
i got a s475 over stock kit on an lbz with 60 overs and duramaxtuner tunes. doesn’t even smoke when i floor it in tune 5. but i average around 12.5-13 mpg. only 33” tires.
Compounds in a sense of building everything and not just running hot tunes then yes but other than that it’s a bad idea if nothing else is being done to the motor or trans
I’ve been looking to do a compound set on my LML. I have a DDP 66mm drop in turbo in it right not was thinking about adding a S488 to it or change it up with a S500/S400 set up. Truck is driven mostly on the weekends and long trips.
Depending on what you’re fuel setup is and the rest of the motor is dependent on that. I def wouldn’t go much bigger than what I’m at with a stock bottom end. I’m WAY pushing it as it is and the tuner has it “dialed back” quite a bit to keep things together and more reliable.
Rustbelt Mechanic I was planning 60 overs and 165 FASS with a 12mm CP3. I haul a camper and 40. Ft trailers from time to time, but I do like to play and mess with Honda’s every now and then. I would like to get to maybe 1200hp and still have drive ability.
Rick Acosta 1200 will be a BIG stretch. Anything over where I’m at requires at least a bottom end. Anything over 1000 needs a lot of specialty parts and 1200 will require lots of custom things and a much bigger fuel system than that. I’m at probably 85% or more of what my 60 overs can handle now and mine is estimated at 750 hp
Are you running factory rods and heads? Looking to make a jump from my single 68mm to HSP dual but I'm maxing around 25 PSI currently. Saw you are running somewhere in the 38-40PSI and wasn't sure if your started to have any issues running that much extra boost? Thanks!
Granted the majority of people I know have these for race trucks.... but I’ve heard of a few guys that have been towing with this setup for over 50+k so far. Even higher from stories but have not talked to them personally.
I have a 2003 Chevy Duramax with a factory zf6 transmission. I was wondering if I do the compound turbo over my stock turbo would it help it pull better
HSP explained it to me like this... with the compound setup and having one VGT and one non VGT turbo, the bov is not 100% necessary but it will allow the the Non VGT turbo to last longer. The excess buildup of boost from quick throttle return causes that back feed of pressure through the big top turbo, also causing the “schu schu schu” sounds, but in all is not good on the turbo and seals.
More for the turbo longevity. With one turbo being variable vane and the big one being fixed vane, the fixed vane turbo can’t just open the vanes when the throttle is let off. When you suddenly let off the throttle the engine stops using boost but it takes a bit for the turbo impellers to slow down. Coupled with the now back pressure from the engine not using all the air, the turbo is now going to get a lot of torque back on the impeller shaft which is also bad for the bearings and seals longevity. The BOV alleviates this.
I'm running an HSP s364/s480 kit and the coolant tank is leading around the coolant level sensor also. Did you just add more tape to get yours to seal or anything in particular that helped more?
Did you have to change the exhaust to the down pipe when you put the compound turbo kit or did the the 75mm turbo connect to to the exhaust flawlessly?
I have a lot going on with my lml. I just bought a Ryan’s 68mm but now I am thinking of compounding it. I have a Wagler complete built motor, ported heads, cam, 10mm stroker, 45 over s&s . My question is: is the 68mm too big for the valley? My concern is EGT’s as well. Will it be cool with that big turbo in the valley?
Depends on what you are wanting to do. If you want much of any towing or streetability then no, it’s too big and the lag will be too much for daily driving. If you are building it to just go fast and can sit and let that thing spool.... it’ll be a rocket ship!
@@RustbeltMechanic pulled the trigger: 68 in the valley and sxe488 96/1.32 with a lil surprise. I will keep u posted on the build. I am gonna try and make to the truck meet next month at Ryan’s.
@@RustbeltMechanic yikes! I have stock tires and rims and pretty much stock everything on the motor (which is about to change soon) and I'm getting roughly 13-15 city and 18-20 on the highway
wow, 12 miles per gallon?? That is terrible. My 2016 LML, with 37"x 12.50, gets 20 MPG on the highway… and that is a 75 mile trip at 75 to 80 mph all the way. It is fully deleted, FASS,, CP3 conversion and tuned (EZLynk with SOTF switch and trans tune) and dialed to maximum performance, which is 200 HP, which will definitely chirp the tires in 3rd gear. I haven't tried full economy yet.
For your under hood liner, build an aluminum panel painted as a battle worn American flag.
The ending is freakin awesome
Lol, I concur.
That's what she said
Im running an s475 with the 1.32 housing. over stock on my stock fuel lb7. And running a stage 5ppe trans with a 1056 converter. My egts are just over 600 cruising at 65-70 and im seeing around 1460° at wot on my hottest tune. Which is a hot tune because of my limited injector. But the drivability is amazing and it turns on when you tickle the pedal. Great videa. Very informative and well spoken.
Awesome feeling when it comes alive just by tapping the petal. I love that part. Honestly, it startled me the first time I drove it , LOL.
What’s the hp rating with stock fuel?
Rip it out then get sheet metal to make a smooth finish and painted to match!!!! Ryan also lead me to get the 64MM since I was daily driving and wanted to tow with it as well. Down to earth dude extremely helpful!
Starting in again on my truck after its been sitting for the past three years, looking at doing a gtx4709r as the primary over the stock with batmowheel and 10blade turbine. Lots of work and money ahead. Truck has 685k+ on stock trans and engine (this was my mountain milk truck, also cannot wait to get the reefer box out of the bed). Car projects moved to back burner as i need a tow rig for my my upcoming move. Thanks for the inspiration!
Fine found an 07 lbz thank for your information hopefully eventually I'll build her out
Maybe a diamond plate, even just in that area above the blow off valve (to save weight).
I want to see your dyno runs before and after! Please be honest with it too.
Throw the truck in tow haul and it will cool the egts down while your in the interstate helped a lot on my built 6.4
Doubtful. On the interstate, converter is locked regardless of in tow haul or not. Slightly higher line pressures in transmission have zero affect on egt
My understanding is if your boosting 40psi your exhaust is holding 40psi.
The more you boost the more you need to keep in.
Omg been a waiting for dis!!!
Sounds like your loving it so far
I’d leave the liner in to keep sounds low. I’d just cover that spot with powder coated aluminum to make it look good. Can colour match to your turbos.
I think would be cool a little pipe through hood
i got a s475 over stock kit on an lbz with 60 overs and duramaxtuner tunes. doesn’t even smoke when i floor it in tune 5. but i average around 12.5-13 mpg. only 33” tires.
Sounds about right
Compounds are the way to go. Do not just remove the Underwood insulation. If you do you'll end with paint issues.
Compounds in a sense of building everything and not just running hot tunes then yes but other than that it’s a bad idea if nothing else is being done to the motor or trans
I’ve been looking to do a compound set on my LML. I have a DDP 66mm drop in turbo in it right not was thinking about adding a S488 to it or change it up with a S500/S400 set up. Truck is driven mostly on the weekends and long trips.
Depending on what you’re fuel setup is and the rest of the motor is dependent on that. I def wouldn’t go much bigger than what I’m at with a stock bottom end. I’m WAY pushing it as it is and the tuner has it “dialed back” quite a bit to keep things together and more reliable.
Rustbelt Mechanic I was planning 60 overs and 165 FASS with a 12mm CP3. I haul a camper and 40. Ft trailers from time to time, but I do like to play and mess with Honda’s every now and then. I would like to get to maybe 1200hp and still have drive ability.
Rick Acosta 1200 will be a BIG stretch. Anything over where I’m at requires at least a bottom end. Anything over 1000 needs a lot of specialty parts and 1200 will require lots of custom things and a much bigger fuel system than that. I’m at probably 85% or more of what my 60 overs can handle now and mine is estimated at 750 hp
Put heat sheald under the hood
You should cut a hole in the hood for the blow off valve!!
😂😂
Are you running factory rods and heads? Looking to make a jump from my single 68mm to HSP dual but I'm maxing around 25 PSI currently. Saw you are running somewhere in the 38-40PSI and wasn't sure if your started to have any issues running that much extra boost? Thanks!
when is a oil temp gauge coming i think you know that it would be a good idea with a compound kit thats putting a lot of heat in that oil
That’s a good idea👍🏻
Negligible. No one runs an oil temp gauge. Heat transfer to oil is a non factor, no more than stock
Cool video Kyle
Will epa make me take off the turbo kit if I purchase one like yours since they are acting crazy with all these rules?
Move out of your Commie State.
@@westtexastll1978 epa has jurisdiction in any state though
How’s the compound kit with towing, I have a LLY duramax been looking at a compound set up but I do a fair amount of highway driving and towing
I’m just jealous you have a sunroof
I want to do compound on my lmm
would a comp turbo or precision turbo 62/62 be to small?? could you go smaller, like 58/58? then a 80/80 as the big turbo?
Do you know when they will make one for the L5p?
When the EPA goes to finally pound sand lol!!
What have you heard is the longevity/reliability on this set up?
Granted the majority of people I know have these for race trucks.... but I’ve heard of a few guys that have been towing with this setup for over 50+k so far. Even higher from stories but have not talked to them personally.
I have a 2003 Chevy Duramax with a factory zf6 transmission. I was wondering if I do the compound turbo over my stock turbo would it help it pull better
How does a blow off valve work on a truck with no throttle blades? Owned two compound lmls but never ran a blow off
HSP explained it to me like this... with the compound setup and having one VGT and one non VGT turbo, the bov is not 100% necessary but it will allow the the Non VGT turbo to last longer. The excess buildup of boost from quick throttle return causes that back feed of pressure through the big top turbo, also causing the “schu schu schu” sounds, but in all is not good on the turbo and seals.
Why are you running a bov? With no throttle blade Can’t the engine can just eat the pressure when you let off?
More for the turbo longevity. With one turbo being variable vane and the big one being fixed vane, the fixed vane turbo can’t just open the vanes when the throttle is let off. When you suddenly let off the throttle the engine stops using boost but it takes a bit for the turbo impellers to slow down. Coupled with the now back pressure from the engine not using all the air, the turbo is now going to get a lot of torque back on the impeller shaft which is also bad for the bearings and seals longevity. The BOV alleviates this.
Why are you running a dual fueler setup rather then a bored and stroked cp3?
Cost… found that setup in Fb group for cheaper
Thanks for the response! Really torn on which way I want to go for my future upgrades.
I'm running an HSP s364/s480 kit and the coolant tank is leading around the coolant level sensor also. Did you just add more tape to get yours to seal or anything in particular that helped more?
We used the white intake sealer for what we used on the intake runners.
Are your coolant temperatures staying around 210 consistently? Was that a change that happened with the twins or is that normal for your truck?
That’s the highest they get to really. Normally they sit around 204
Still a carbon fiber fan for under the hood :)
What kind of power are you putting down now? Any track times yet?
The tuner says dialed back to 750, but every chance at tracks or dynos this year was squashed by covid around here, so hopefully soon!
Tripp turbskis anyone
😁🤘🏻
The ETGs are way lower
Daily driver and you only fill up once every 3 weeks? What do you drive it like 5 miles a day? Or do you have an aftermarket tank?
Literally only drive on average 5-7 miles a day
Rustbelt Mechanic ugh. So lucky lol
Did you have to change the exhaust to the down pipe when you put the compound turbo kit or did the the 75mm turbo connect to to the exhaust flawlessly?
Had to change it just slightly. Cut off the flange and add one piece of straight pipe and that was it
Thanks for the info bro👍
I have a lot going on with my lml. I just bought a Ryan’s 68mm but now I am thinking of compounding it. I have a Wagler complete built motor, ported heads, cam, 10mm stroker, 45 over s&s . My question is: is the 68mm too big for the valley? My concern is EGT’s as well. Will it be cool with that big turbo in the valley?
Depends on what you are wanting to do. If you want much of any towing or streetability then no, it’s too big and the lag will be too much for daily driving. If you are building it to just go fast and can sit and let that thing spool.... it’ll be a rocket ship!
@@RustbeltMechanic pulled the trigger: 68 in the valley and sxe488 96/1.32 with a lil surprise. I will keep u posted on the build. I am gonna try and make to the truck meet next month at Ryan’s.
How do you think this set up would run with a manual behind it?
Not sure, haven’t gotten ahold of one yet🤷♂️
Rip it out and black spray in bed liner
What kind of power does your set up make?
Going to be doing an official Dyno at the big RDS meet in July but tuner says about 750
Stock rotating assembly?
Yup👍🏻
What have you done to upgrade the bottom end?
Nada..... it’ll get a full build in the bottom end if(when lol) I hurt it
What’s the thing right of ur a/c compressor
A secondary CP3 fuel pump....running a dual fueler setup
What’s your mpg like? and is your long block built or stock?
MPG is eh... 19-20hwy and 13-14 city and no it’s still a stock bottom end🤷♂️😁
Rustbelt Mechanic thank you so much. 🙏🏼
@@RustbeltMechanic you'd probably get a little better mileage if you weren't on 20" rims haha
@@jakes_lbz actually 22’s with 37” tires…lol
@@RustbeltMechanic yikes! I have stock tires and rims and pretty much stock everything on the motor (which is about to change soon) and I'm getting roughly 13-15 city and 18-20 on the highway
Do you think you could run a big turbo like yours over stock on smaller time until you could buy another valley turbo and stud the motor?
Thing hazes quite a bit doesn’t it haha
It did a bit but when tuning got ironed out it’s cleared up a lot
Rustbelt Mechanic figured that was the case. Mine hazes after idling a while but it’s whatever haha
What exhaust are you running? Sound awesome
Then it was 4” now it’s 5” mbrp
wow, 12 miles per gallon?? That is terrible. My 2016 LML, with 37"x 12.50, gets 20 MPG on the highway… and that is a 75 mile trip at 75 to 80 mph all the way. It is fully deleted, FASS,, CP3 conversion and tuned (EZLynk with SOTF switch and trans tune) and dialed to maximum performance, which is 200 HP, which will definitely chirp the tires in 3rd gear. I haven't tried full economy yet.
Blow off exhaust pipe out the hood.
Sounds like a drag car lol
Dyno!!!
Going on a Dyno at the Cole Motors show in Van Wert Oh here in a week or so