For carpet tracks the newer stuff clearly takes the cake. At a club level, my brother and I are both running our old B4s in 21.5 on a medium grip dirt/clay track and we're consistently at the top against new mid motor setups.
That's something I keep seeing, old and entry-level cars being able to keep up on dirt but struggling on carpet. Honestly, it seems like the way to rein costs back in would be to ditch carpet and go back to dirt.
Your laugh attack at the beginning was contagious 😄 Year or so back "I don't know if I can do a decent paint job on this vintage body." Present "I could have won both finals but the car glitched! I think there is more in this car. I need MORE POWER!" Ladies and Gentleman, this is how it happens..... I used Du-Bro ball links because of the cups wearing out at just the wrong time or failing after a big hit on the oval tracks. Not as precision sometimes, maybe a tiny bit heavier, but ball links way to go.
Wow RC Kicks. You can realy see your race driving improvements vs your early racing videos. Glad to see you sticking to the racing....keep it up great content.
Sorry Gav, that was my hip that took you out :( In my defense that was a pretty tricky marshal point, & first time covering a crossover, - but can't have you winning on the first outing though can we- where's the fun in that? ;) Might be fun if you did a marshals-eye view video down the line... I certainly needed eyes in the back of my head (& my arse) where I was! -at least I have a famous bruise now tho ;) All the best, & well done with the new buggy! :)
So sorry you got crashed into. I’m not at the stage of being able to look far ahead on the track and by the time I clocked you, the buggy was already in the air. Hope it wasn’t too painful.
@@RCKickschannel I’m fine, & it was my own fault- I wouldn’t do it again, sorry I mucked up your race dude! It looks so slow on camera, but at the time I saw 3 cars snarled up & just reacted, didn’t see you coming, sorry😔 -you’ll be winning B-mains in no time though! All the best -til next time 🤘
I’ve raced a b6.3 for over a year and never popped a ball joint yet. I have only broken a front wishbone too as they’re very tough. I wouldn’t waste your money on new ball joints. The carbon servo restraint was worth having and the alloy diff housing was the only way I found to stop it leaking.
One of the most interesting videos about RC Racing I've ever seen. Nice work Gav. If I had those power cut offs, I'd look at the temp logs for the ESC. On most racing ESCs you can alter the ESC temp cut off, You need it on the higher setting, especially if you're barking and acellerating a lot. The Sensor lead is worth looking at at both ends, they can work loose from vibration.
Excellent video mate👍 very interesting to compare vintage with modern electronics with modern buggy and same electronics🤔so it’s basically seeing how good chassis technology has developed over the years? Mind you rc buggy racing is more fun to actually do than to watch!
The argument of "Pros drive differently you should not copy them" is invalid since if you use the same setup, you'll adjust to drive according to the setup and learn to drive with it. The same works for gaming with DPI and sensitivity and such you'll adjust to it.
The argument of "Pros drive differently you should not copy them" was originally penned back when we ran these on dirt, where the track conditions changed over time and car control mattered a lot more. It doesn't apply to modern "on-road with jumps" style racing, where there's only one true line, rather than a bunch of different possible lines that may or may not be quicker depending on track condition like you have with dirt.
Wow, what a fantastic performance with both cars, well done Gav!! As for the ESC issue, it's probably the sensor lead from the ESC to the motor, might just be slightly loose. I've had the same issue with my FWD touring cars, and it was the sensor lead, it had moved out of the motor a tiny bit but enough to get an intermittent connection, if it's not loose then it might be worth replacing the sensor lead altogether. You did so well, but the biggest surprise was how well the BBX ran, that was seriously impressive and totally unexpected. Really enjoyed the video, awesome stuff!!
Yep 100% and it's easier to drive. I have just upgraded the RC10 B6.4 and made some changes after the last outing to hopefully make it even faster :) Video coming soon
When I built my race buggy last year (b6.3) I actually 'oiled' the gasket before putting the diff together.... I can honestly say after wiping off all the excess oil (which was a bit of a pain in the a£$e) I had absolutely no issues with it! Thanks for another great video Gav, really enjoying the track content 👌 nice to have an insight into a noobie starting to race as I found it quite daunting the first time I walked in to a club since 1988 with absolutely no idea what I was doing 😅
Yep it 100% can be but don’t let that put you off at all if you are thinking about giving it a go people. I’ve got no clue at all myself and I’m having a blast 👍🏻
You are an RC racer. You've done your homework and tuned your car. The only thing you need to work on is, don't concentrate on where your opponents are. Just drive your car.
Nice work Gav. Now shove an old body on that B64 and see how much of a difference there is if any. Phil's BBX looks a tonne better with racing treads on it. A great video all round.
Gav, you're absolutely killing it with these racing videos, such a joy to watch and makes me wish I could join you fellas! Keep up the great work! Check your sensor wire. It may have worked loose or may need to be replaced. As I'm sure you well know new stuff like wiring can be faulty right out of the box.
Driving wise your improving with every vid - a quick tip from me but don't take offence - on the very technical bits you are having trouble with is - 'slow down'..lol Sometimes its better to make sure and place the car where you want it at a slower speed, and then use the oomph to power through some of the more easy fast flowing bits. Looks to me like your trying to blast round every corner which is not always necessary for a quick time.
Both cars looked great and you drive very well. You did an excellent job adjusting from one car too another. Great job on setting up both cars. I am betting the problem is a connection issue. In my last race I had a similar problem and it was a connection issue. I don't know if you want intefere with a another UA-camr's video. But, I would find it ineterestng to you and Phil comparing cars. Keep up the good work.
So the cutting out, have you updated your receiver? I've had the issue with hobbywing esc when I forgot to update an old receiver I fitted, also check the sensor cable as that can send the esc crazy :) if you need help updating the nb4 and receiver give me a shout :)
Wow well done Gavin you’ve really improved dude well done man.. you’ve made a nice job of the body on the 6.4.. BBX was really impressive love the look of it Tamiya did an awesome job on it 😊👍👍Pete
Great vid Gav. The B6.4 looks a whole lot more planted and composed compared to the Cougar. You seem to be driving much cleaner lines with it as well. This is not to say anyhting bad about the Schumacher, but a couple of decades of design will do that. Edit, it was cool to see Popalong and Tomley racing there with you, and really cool that Tomley was racing the BBX.
Same pinions and spur but one is belt drive and one is gear so it does knock off the gearing a bit. When driving, it did feel about the same. What I think was making the most difference was just how stable the modern chassis was. Obviously being mid motor Vs rear on carpet is going to do a big part of that. The steering is a load more precise than the Cougar.
all i can tell from the video is the modern vehicles look like they are moving in fast forwards compared to the vintage ones ... is there a technical explanation for why they are faster? are they lighter, stiffer, better balanced, etc?
Next time I’m at the club let me watch your car and you tell me what you need, every driver needs an easy car so there are always things we can do. I had to learn ae setups as I did Kev’s 6.4 for the old carpet
How much better/easier to drive is a B7 vs a b6.4? Is anything else as good as a b7? Like Xray, Mugen, Schumacher? Everyone at the track I gobto had a b7 and for that reason I want to try something else
The b6.4 is set up out the box for carpet anyway. The kit set up may have been better. I would have tried it stock first personally as that would be very forgiving to drive for all Skill levels .
If you want to "go faster", and who doesn't, suggest you put the motor onto a motor dyno and set the engine timing up for optimum. Usually motors straight out of the box are set to quite modest timing, which is a bit pedestrian. Having done that, you might want to get into the ESC and program that for best speed. Again, out of the box they are quite pedestrian and there is usually plenty of scope to improve the performance, especially in Hobbywing units. Having come that far, time to get into the transmitter, and push all the settings to the max for best speed. Don't forget to calibrate the handset to the ESC, especially after you tweak the ESC settings. I usually mange to forget that.Using the factory settings, again, tends to be pedestrian, tweaking can get some massive gains, but, you then need to go to a high end handset, to get availability to those settings. Not sure if you have one of those, but they are a great investment, especially if you can spread the use across a number of different rc cars.
Please tell me you're not doing this in stock... ROAR regulations doesn't allow timing adjustments for stock classes, and tracks that do allow it honestly really shouldn't. (Although, honestly, there's a lot of stuff that ROAR actually does allow that they shouldn't, like $200+ "stock" motors that are fully customizable). IFMAR doesn't allow it either.
It looks like a thermal shutdown of the motor. You should have a fan on the motor because its inside the body.You can go into the setup of the esc and change the temperature cutoff settings I run a B6.3 and had similar problems
The did think the same as it’s towards the end of the race and got worse as the night went on because I was pushing harder in each qualifying round. The motor wasn’t cooking when I touched it so that made me think it could be a loose connection. I haven’t checked yet but I will add a fan and check the heat cut off temp setting in the ESC in the next video. 👍🏻
Whats your gearing on the ASS? High gearing can make the voltage drop at on power an the lipo cut off can give you the problems described, It happened to me once . Lower gearing for more punch 👍🙂
Very nice to see you racing! Practice is speed! Of course I would like to see you driving an current Schumacher but maybe next is a L1R... Just think about it😉
I think you're passing battery cut-off voltage in the b6.4 momentarily when trying to get full speed. It's a combination of the battery getting warmer and getting to the low side of it's charge and extra draw of the warmer motor. You could try to gear down a bit, lower the battery voltage cut-off in the esc or use a higher "C" rated battery.
The battery is 120c so it can't be that and I have never had the issues with the much heavier Cougar running the same kit. Motor temp looks OK as well but I will try a few things, including another battery, sensor wire and I will be adding a fan.
On gravel? Nothing. You generally don't want to run these on gravel, it can cause a lot of damage to the vehicle. But if you actually mean for running on dirt and other loose surfaces, if you're specifically looking for a 1/10th scale 2WD buggy competition kit, get a Schumacher LD3. Schumacher's cars in general tend to be easy to set up for a large number of surfaces, something which has become uncharacteristic of most modern racing buggies which are more or less just carpet cars. If you're looking for just any 1/10th scale 2WD buggy, look into some of the RTRs like the Associated RB10 and Yokomo RO-1, they'll be a bit more suited to running on dirt than the competition kits. And if you just want a general recommendation, you might want to look at 1/8th scale or a stadium truck. The larger wheels and increased suspension travel of a stadium truck will make the vehicle better at handling rough surfaces, and the same is true of 1/8th scale buggies.
Great video! I was expecting a difference, but not this much! The B6.4 looks so much smoother around the track. As always, love the race videos and this was fun to see the others having a great time too. Having great time is what it's all about!
...but how do they compare on a less grippy dirt track? No surprise the new car is better in a high grip environment, these weren't really a thing back in the early 90's and cars will develop according to the most imoortant tracks. Regardless, curious about the specifics on that cougar and tempted to get a modern car as well 😅
Is that transponder mylaps compatible? Mylaps is so ex..I put o-ring grease on the gasket before purchasing the alum diff cover. 😂 I love my b6.4. Just tested with steel bulkhead which gains even more steering..👍🏻
I’d say because you have the cougar so dialed and were more comfortable with it initially vs the B6.4 I’d run the B6.4 another 2-3 race days and do another comparison but I really doubt results will be that different and the modern buggy will still be faster than the vintage one
I had the same thing happen to mine that day, unplugged the sensor lead and it fixed it. maybe you need a new sensor lead?
I’ll give it a go. Thanks Kevin 👍🏻
When I saw it I was thinking the same thing. It’s the sensor wire. Sometimes they go bad or disconnect.
yep worth checking this also.
For carpet tracks the newer stuff clearly takes the cake. At a club level, my brother and I are both running our old B4s in 21.5 on a medium grip dirt/clay track and we're consistently at the top against new mid motor setups.
That's something I keep seeing, old and entry-level cars being able to keep up on dirt but struggling on carpet. Honestly, it seems like the way to rein costs back in would be to ditch carpet and go back to dirt.
Your laugh attack at the beginning was contagious 😄
Year or so back "I don't know if I can do a decent paint job on this vintage body."
Present "I could have won both finals but the car glitched! I think there is more in this car. I need MORE POWER!"
Ladies and Gentleman, this is how it happens.....
I used Du-Bro ball links because of the cups wearing out at just the wrong time or failing after a big hit on the oval tracks. Not as precision sometimes, maybe a tiny bit heavier, but ball links way to go.
That was some awesome driving! I was holding my breath on the last race! Good stuff! 😊👍🔥
Wow RC Kicks. You can realy see your race driving improvements vs your early racing videos. Glad to see you sticking to the racing....keep it up great content.
The set up is spot on Gavin 😊. Well raced with both cars. Great to watch.
Sorry Gav, that was my hip that took you out :( In my defense that was a pretty tricky marshal point, & first time covering a crossover, - but can't have you winning on the first outing though can we- where's the fun in that? ;) Might be fun if you did a marshals-eye view video down the line... I certainly needed eyes in the back of my head (& my arse) where I was! -at least I have a famous bruise now tho ;) All the best, & well done with the new buggy! :)
So sorry you got crashed into. I’m not at the stage of being able to look far ahead on the track and by the time I clocked you, the buggy was already in the air. Hope it wasn’t too painful.
@@RCKickschannel I’m fine, & it was my own fault- I wouldn’t do it again, sorry I mucked up your race dude! It looks so slow on camera, but at the time I saw 3 cars snarled up & just reacted, didn’t see you coming, sorry😔 -you’ll be winning B-mains in no time though! All the best -til next time 🤘
I’ve raced a b6.3 for over a year and never popped a ball joint yet. I have only broken a front wishbone too as they’re very tough. I wouldn’t waste your money on new ball joints. The carbon servo restraint was worth having and the alloy diff housing was the only way I found to stop it leaking.
One of the most interesting videos about RC Racing I've ever seen. Nice work Gav. If I had those power cut offs, I'd look at the temp logs for the ESC. On most racing ESCs you can alter the ESC temp cut off, You need it on the higher setting, especially if you're barking and acellerating a lot. The Sensor lead is worth looking at at both ends, they can work loose from vibration.
When I said barking, I meant to say braking 🤓
Excellent video mate👍 very interesting to compare vintage with modern electronics with modern buggy and same electronics🤔so it’s basically seeing how good chassis technology has developed over the years? Mind you rc buggy racing is more fun to actually do than to watch!
Yep that’s true, that’s why I have to put so much into the races to help people follow the race story as it’s easy to miss.
Well done Gav, now you see why Team Associated have won 30 odd World Titles🎉
"I just wing it, when I drive" 😂 Love it 💯😁
And some lol
The argument of "Pros drive differently you should not copy them" is invalid since if you use the same setup, you'll adjust to drive according to the setup and learn to drive with it.
The same works for gaming with DPI and sensitivity and such you'll adjust to it.
The argument of "Pros drive differently you should not copy them" was originally penned back when we ran these on dirt, where the track conditions changed over time and car control mattered a lot more. It doesn't apply to modern "on-road with jumps" style racing, where there's only one true line, rather than a bunch of different possible lines that may or may not be quicker depending on track condition like you have with dirt.
Excellent track layout. The track builders are really good at that track
Fun watching , all the way to the end....great race footage
Wow, what a fantastic performance with both cars, well done Gav!! As for the ESC issue, it's probably the sensor lead from the ESC to the motor, might just be slightly loose. I've had the same issue with my FWD touring cars, and it was the sensor lead, it had moved out of the motor a tiny bit but enough to get an intermittent connection, if it's not loose then it might be worth replacing the sensor lead altogether. You did so well, but the biggest surprise was how well the BBX ran, that was seriously impressive and totally unexpected. Really enjoyed the video, awesome stuff!!
You can see just how much smoother the newer car seems to flow around the track. Way better over the jumps too. I like the comparison video Gav.
Yep 100% and it's easier to drive. I have just upgraded the RC10 B6.4 and made some changes after the last outing to hopefully make it even faster :) Video coming soon
When I built my race buggy last year (b6.3) I actually 'oiled' the gasket before putting the diff together.... I can honestly say after wiping off all the excess oil (which was a bit of a pain in the a£$e) I had absolutely no issues with it!
Thanks for another great video Gav, really enjoying the track content 👌 nice to have an insight into a noobie starting to race as I found it quite daunting the first time I walked in to a club since 1988 with absolutely no idea what I was doing 😅
Yep it 100% can be but don’t let that put you off at all if you are thinking about giving it a go people. I’ve got no clue at all myself and I’m having a blast 👍🏻
Well done Gav, nice to see the old vs new comparison and your racing has progressed. Congrats.
Thanks 👍
Great Video . Nothing wrong with starting with that borrowed setup and then tweak it to your liking one change at a time.
You are an RC racer. You've done your homework and tuned your car. The only thing you need to work on is, don't concentrate on where your opponents are. Just drive your car.
Nice work Gav. Now shove an old body on that B64 and see how much of a difference there is if any. Phil's BBX looks a tonne better with racing treads on it. A great video all round.
Coming soon 👍🏻👍🏻
Massive difference in speed, and I knew you’d be quick with it! I love the B6.4…. but I had much more fun with the BBX 😅
I was surprised how well the BBX went. Racing a few of them together would be a blast. How’s the diff?
@@RCKickschannel Not looked yet.... feels a bit rough, so may just need a clean and re-grease
I was well impressed how the BBX is on a race track
@@escos0410 all stock other than wheels/tyres
Why is the BBX listed as Vintage?
Can u please link the rules for this Club?
Great video, thanks.
I made my changes after duplicating a pro set up and I’ve only added a bull head shim to add more steering
Gav, you're absolutely killing it with these racing videos, such a joy to watch and makes me wish I could join you fellas! Keep up the great work!
Check your sensor wire. It may have worked loose or may need to be replaced. As I'm sure you well know new stuff like wiring can be faulty right out of the box.
Thanks, that’s most kind of you to say
Great comparisons!
Would like to see that RC10 gold chassis you have up on the shelf going head to head with the B6.4.
Driving wise your improving with every vid - a quick tip from me but don't take offence - on the very technical bits you are having trouble with is - 'slow down'..lol Sometimes its better to make sure and place the car where you want it at a slower speed, and then use the oomph to power through some of the more easy fast flowing bits. Looks to me like your trying to blast round every corner which is not always necessary for a quick time.
Cougars looking great on the track now Gav 👌
Both cars looked great and you drive very well. You did an excellent job adjusting from one car too another. Great job on setting up both cars. I am betting the problem is a connection issue. In my last race I had a similar problem and it was a connection issue. I don't know if you want intefere with a another UA-camr's video. But, I would find it ineterestng to you and Phil comparing cars. Keep up the good work.
I love that u post so often
So the cutting out, have you updated your receiver? I've had the issue with hobbywing esc when I forgot to update an old receiver I fitted, also check the sensor cable as that can send the esc crazy :) if you need help updating the nb4 and receiver give me a shout :)
Yep did the receiver when it came in.
Wow well done Gavin you’ve really improved dude well done man.. you’ve made a nice job of the body on the 6.4.. BBX was really impressive love the look of it Tamiya did an awesome job on it 😊👍👍Pete
Great vid Gav. The B6.4 looks a whole lot more planted and composed compared to the Cougar. You seem to be driving much cleaner lines with it as well. This is not to say anyhting bad about the Schumacher, but a couple of decades of design will do that.
Edit, it was cool to see Popalong and Tomley racing there with you, and really cool that Tomley was racing the BBX.
Yep, it’s a great easy going bunch
Great job all round! 👍
Ball joints are fine on the B6.4, no issues there
I'd like to see this test done on dirt as a comparison. I wouldn't be surprised if the numbers were a bit closer there.
"same everything" but I don't think I heard you mention gearing.
Same pinions and spur but one is belt drive and one is gear so it does knock off the gearing a bit. When driving, it did feel about the same. What I think was making the most difference was just how stable the modern chassis was. Obviously being mid motor Vs rear on carpet is going to do a big part of that. The steering is a load more precise than the Cougar.
Shouldnt you compare a vintage Associated 2wd vs the modern Associated 2wd? Better comparison than Schumacher vs Associated
all i can tell from the video is the modern vehicles look like they are moving in fast forwards compared to the vintage ones ... is there a technical explanation for why they are faster? are they lighter, stiffer, better balanced, etc?
Yep all of the above
Awesome congratulations great fun video
Thank you 🤗
Great driving mate!
Thank you! 👍
Check your sensor cable. Also the Associated ball cups are really good, I don’t think I’ve ever popped one.
Yep, it could be the sensor wire, I will check.
Think another cool comparison would be top of the line early 2000s buggy vs new entry level buggy
Next time I’m at the club let me watch your car and you tell me what you need, every driver needs an easy car so there are always things we can do. I had to learn ae setups as I did Kev’s 6.4 for the old carpet
Arthose the just stock esc you are running? Fixed timing
Thought this was tamiya vs Morden rc buggy vid you never did
Sorry, you thought wrong. This is my vintage Schumacher Cougar and my new RC10 B6.4
How much better/easier to drive is a B7 vs a b6.4?
Is anything else as good as a b7?
Like Xray, Mugen, Schumacher?
Everyone at the track I gobto had a b7 and for that reason I want to try something else
I raced my RC10 against a Yokomo yz2 back at maritime and with a good driver on the sticks there was 2-3 seconds a lap in it
That looks like a lot of fun 😂👍
To be fair on the cougar the team associated suspension set up probably helped a lot.
The b6.4 is set up out the box for carpet anyway. The kit set up may have been better. I would have tried it stock first personally as that would be very forgiving to drive for all
Skill levels .
I used to use Mayfields set up sheets just for an idea of a starting point
If you want to "go faster", and who doesn't, suggest you put the motor onto a motor dyno and set the engine timing up for optimum. Usually motors straight out of the box are set to quite modest timing, which is a bit pedestrian. Having done that, you might want to get into the ESC and program that for best speed. Again, out of the box they are quite pedestrian and there is usually plenty of scope to improve the performance, especially in Hobbywing units. Having come that far, time to get into the transmitter, and push all the settings to the max for best speed. Don't forget to calibrate the handset to the ESC, especially after you tweak the ESC settings. I usually mange to forget that.Using the factory settings, again, tends to be pedestrian, tweaking can get some massive gains, but, you then need to go to a high end handset, to get availability to those settings. Not sure if you have one of those, but they are a great investment, especially if you can spread the use across a number of different rc cars.
Please tell me you're not doing this in stock... ROAR regulations doesn't allow timing adjustments for stock classes, and tracks that do allow it honestly really shouldn't. (Although, honestly, there's a lot of stuff that ROAR actually does allow that they shouldn't, like $200+ "stock" motors that are fully customizable). IFMAR doesn't allow it either.
lol!!, great start to the video Gavin. :)
Looks like thermal shutdown? check the heat of the motor and speedo after a run. change the parameters in the speedo or get a fan?
Amazing video. Worth the wait. You should change the series name to Pro Goes Racing.
It looks like a thermal shutdown of the motor. You should have a fan on the motor because its inside the body.You can go into the setup of the esc and change the temperature cutoff settings I run a B6.3 and had similar problems
The did think the same as it’s towards the end of the race and got worse as the night went on because I was pushing harder in each qualifying round. The motor wasn’t cooking when I touched it so that made me think it could be a loose connection. I haven’t checked yet but I will add a fan and check the heat cut off temp setting in the ESC in the next video. 👍🏻
Finally, someone figured a proper use for a church
LOL It’s just a community hall but some old churches have been changed into pubs in the UK!!
@RCKickschannel even better lol
can’t believe you lot weren’t at the cromer festival 😂
Whats your gearing on the ASS?
High gearing can make the voltage drop at on power an the lipo cut off can give you the problems described, It happened to me once .
Lower gearing for more punch 👍🙂
22 pinion on the stock spur so nothing crazy.
Very nice to see you racing! Practice is speed! Of course I would like to see you driving an current Schumacher but maybe next is a L1R... Just think about it😉
Hreat content Gav!! Hey have you ever thought about doing Tamiya M chassis races?
I have a few M chassis cars in the collection but I have never had the chance yet.
@@RCKickschannel I also have few M chassis ready to go. So whenever you star racing I will join you
I think you're passing battery cut-off voltage in the b6.4 momentarily when trying to get full speed. It's a combination of the battery getting warmer and getting to the low side of it's charge and extra draw of the warmer motor. You could try to gear down a bit, lower the battery voltage cut-off in the esc or use a higher "C" rated battery.
The battery is 120c so it can't be that and I have never had the issues with the much heavier Cougar running the same kit. Motor temp looks OK as well but I will try a few things, including another battery, sensor wire and I will be adding a fan.
A warm battery can provide higher current. It just must not get too hot to suffer damage.
What s the best rc buggy for outside tracks gravel
On gravel? Nothing. You generally don't want to run these on gravel, it can cause a lot of damage to the vehicle.
But if you actually mean for running on dirt and other loose surfaces, if you're specifically looking for a 1/10th scale 2WD buggy competition kit, get a Schumacher LD3. Schumacher's cars in general tend to be easy to set up for a large number of surfaces, something which has become uncharacteristic of most modern racing buggies which are more or less just carpet cars. If you're looking for just any 1/10th scale 2WD buggy, look into some of the RTRs like the Associated RB10 and Yokomo RO-1, they'll be a bit more suited to running on dirt than the competition kits. And if you just want a general recommendation, you might want to look at 1/8th scale or a stadium truck. The larger wheels and increased suspension travel of a stadium truck will make the vehicle better at handling rough surfaces, and the same is true of 1/8th scale buggies.
Hey there's a missing image file at 0:32 of your video.
Yep
Great video! I was expecting a difference, but not this much! The B6.4 looks so much smoother around the track. As always, love the race videos and this was fun to see the others having a great time too. Having great time is what it's all about!
Wondering if the final gearing ratio was the same or not. Also, any differences in setting up the esc?
Any timing on the motor itself?
ESC was set the same.
Duplicating a pro set up was one of the best moves I made. Just make sure you know the type of track it was for
It's DONKEY time!🫵🏿😡
I wonder if my AE B4 Stealth buggy will be eligible for vintage racing already.
Just
Start with checking sensor cable as it looks like thats the issue
Pro tip: you can edit out bits where you’re choking on camera 😂😂
Jk man, nice series
...but how do they compare on a less grippy dirt track? No surprise the new car is better in a high grip environment, these weren't really a thing back in the early 90's and cars will develop according to the most imoortant tracks. Regardless, curious about the specifics on that cougar and tempted to get a modern car as well 😅
Is that transponder mylaps compatible? Mylaps is so ex..I put o-ring grease on the gasket before purchasing the alum diff cover. 😂 I love my b6.4. Just tested with steel bulkhead which gains even more steering..👍🏻
I’d say because you have the cougar so dialed and were more comfortable with it initially vs the B6.4 I’d run the B6.4 another 2-3 race days and do another comparison but I really doubt results will be that different and the modern buggy will still be faster than the vintage one
I would expect the B6.4 to keep increasing in speed over the next few outings as I dial it in and upgrade the setup for sure.
the white sticker on the black on make i thought it nitro powered:)
just change the ball joints to newer ones from another more reliable car.
If you pass 3rd place then you’re in 3rd.
Hehehhe true
how many time can i say get a servo saver for the Cougar a nice kimbrough one and you will never pop one again
How fast do ya wona go mate lol don't choke
Why does a BBX count as vintage, it's a 2023 chassis lol
Vintage style of buggy
It was just a Club night... it would not be able to enter a proper Vintage Class race
I really, really, really, really hate the cab forward bodies that everything runs these days. They look unbelievably shite.
Watch this space, you are going to like the next RC10 B6.4 upgrade video ;)
The cab forward body helps with everything else on the B6
if it wasn’t needed for it’s overall performance they wouldn’t use them