if theres a vacuum leak it means you will run rich right? which means your spark plugs should be dirty or black. if they arent black then its not the air intake
I think it's sucking too much air when you lift your foor from the throttle pedal. At least that was the case on my car. I just tightened the clip connecting the air filter box to tue throttle body. Problem solved.
yeah or too late re-injecting fuel. when u change gears, you release the gas (no fuel is injected at all), then press the clutch (fuel needs to be injected to keep the engine at idle, because the wheels don't power the engine anymore) and that's where it goes wrong very often. but if the engine stalls with the clutch in and you change gears and bring the clutch up immediately, you push-started it basically so the engine should come back to live as well since the wheels force the engine to move again and the key is still in the run position.
John Doekstra literally exactly what my 2008 civic is doin now. Dies mid drive. I clutch in and rev it and the car jumps right back on, let me drive a little then dies right back on half a block later. Been Off and on last 2 days. Driving me crazy smh
@@ralpharomeo7420 yeah that sucks. problems like this are harder to diagnoze in automatics because the wheels are always connected to the engine (except in P or N), which is just not the case in a manual (every time you clutch in). so when the torque converter 'unlocks' and the engine needs fuel, there's usually still enough drag to get the engine going until the fuel system caught up and gives it enough gas to stay running. of course, in a manual, the moment you clutch in, the car needs to inject fuel immediately or it'll stall...
Own a 1970s Toyota automatic with a carburettor & is currently doing that. No idle at all. Not even idling badly. Keeps killing itself at traffic lights, roundabouts, junctions etc.
I'm not sure if your making a statement or asking a question. But lots of things can cause this. I typically get lucky and don't normally have to guess. But when I can't, Just start small and cheap and work my way up. It's became a double edged sword through the years to diagnose between fuel, air, and fire being it's all electronic. But the trade-off is the cars knowing the problem off the bat. I despise all the extra "luxuries". Everyone else can keep them. I love simple, abundance, and as basic as possible. But shit base models are the equivalent to being fully loaded in the good old days. Just have to adapt, don't go to bed without learning something new everyday and of course survive. Lol.
Currently having this exact problem on my kawasaki zzr1100 carburated. Thinking that it could be an intake leak but ive been spraying brake cleaner all over and it doesnt seem to go away. Its very minor compared to this though
@@nixon9346 i’m having the same issue when I step on the gas for a long period of time. For example, if I’m going on a road trip, my car starts to act up but if I pull over and let it cool down I’m good after that. What did you replace?
This is a common problem in cars that uses a timing chain. The pins that connect the chain links wear slightly and causes the chain links to "eat into" the pins. This will cause the chain links to be slightly (fraction of a mm) further apart. This is also known as a stretched timing chain (although the chain links aren't technically stretched - it's worn down). When you buy a new timing chain + slack guides you will notice that the new chain is about 10 to 15mm longer than the old one, causing the valve timing to be retarded by a few degrees (3 to 6°). The same can happen in cars that uses a belt if it skips a tooth or two.
Never had a bad timing chain do that... Lol.. It causes the motor to stumble on acceleration or diesel when turning the rig off. never have i seen it pull this stuff!
Carel Minnaar I have the same issue on my Impala. I noticed my car started doing this when I pumped my gas pedal one day to accelerate and while doing this I can feel the engine swallowing fuel but there was a delay in the gears snatching to take off. So when you said something about belts moving or slipping I kinda can relate because ever since that night it feels like my ratios or something is off. Longer gears when accelerating and slow down shifts rpm
replace the egr valve and transducer. also clean out the egr pathway. if your car stalls or wants to stall at lower RPM's, or snap throttling then it's possible your ecu can't compensate for a bad fuel & air mixture due to a stuck open/closed egr valve or clogged pathway. worked for me. good luck
I have the same problem in my Cavalier 2003 the same when I switch to neutral while the car ir running the rpm drops to 300 or 500 rpm and only when I'm totally stoped it returns to the normal ralenti. What was your solution for this?
Hello my pajero RPM drops below normal when throttle is let go. Sometimes car stalls as well. Changed plug and injectors, changed fuel filter,, serviced throttle body. Issue still remains. ua-cam.com/video/Gu8evRqCoxc/v-deo.html
Had this exact issue... found out that my air intake before throttle body was clogged + had one small vacuum leak, now it doesnt happen anymore
I am also having the same issue with my GSX. Ill have to give this a check. Thanks man!
Where was it leaking from exactly
if theres a vacuum leak it means you will run rich right? which means your spark plugs should be dirty or black. if they arent black then its not the air intake
I think it's sucking too much air when you lift your foor from the throttle pedal. At least that was the case on my car. I just tightened the clip connecting the air filter box to tue throttle body. Problem solved.
is there a way to test it if thats the case, what if u have tightened it and theres still soemwhere its getting extra air
This is happening in my mg tf right now, so Annoying when moving off then clutching it and it just dies on me
My car has slight stop like that, I cleaned the throttle body and it stopped doing that also has cleaned MAF sensor
yeah or too late re-injecting fuel. when u change gears, you release the gas (no fuel is injected at all), then press the clutch (fuel needs to be injected to keep the engine at idle, because the wheels don't power the engine anymore) and that's where it goes wrong very often.
but if the engine stalls with the clutch in and you change gears and bring the clutch up immediately, you push-started it basically so the engine should come back to live as well since the wheels force the engine to move again and the key is still in the run position.
John Doekstra literally exactly what my 2008 civic is doin now. Dies mid drive. I clutch in and rev it and the car jumps right back on, let me drive a little then dies right back on half a block later. Been Off and on last 2 days. Driving me crazy smh
@@ralpharomeo7420 yeah that sucks. problems like this are harder to diagnoze in automatics because the wheels are always connected to the engine (except in P or N), which is just not the case in a manual (every time you clutch in). so when the torque converter 'unlocks' and the engine needs fuel, there's usually still enough drag to get the engine going until the fuel system caught up and gives it enough gas to stay running. of course, in a manual, the moment you clutch in, the car needs to inject fuel immediately or it'll stall...
Hey how do I fix that
My 2002 Jetta Volkswagen 1.8 t does that and I really need to know what to look at or how to fix it
My 2002 Jetta Volkswagen 1.8 t does that and I really need to know what to look at or how to fix it
Own a 1970s Toyota automatic with a carburettor & is currently doing that. No idle at all. Not even idling badly. Keeps killing itself at traffic lights, roundabouts, junctions etc.
Same with me did you fix it? Cause I cant find rhe problem
@@TonnyDraconic No longer have it. Auctioned it off.😕
we put the hose back on from the intake to valve cover non pcv side and the problem stop
after doing a burnout or stoping quickly the rpm drop then up again or just stall, breathers are for turbo ir blowers with high boost
I'm not sure if your making a statement or asking a question.
But lots of things can cause this. I typically get lucky and don't normally have to guess. But when I can't,
Just start small and cheap and work my way up.
It's became a double edged sword through the years to diagnose between fuel, air, and fire being it's all electronic.
But the trade-off is the cars knowing the problem off the bat.
I despise all the extra "luxuries".
Everyone else can keep them.
I love simple, abundance, and as basic as possible.
But shit base models are the equivalent to being fully loaded in the good old days.
Just have to adapt, don't go to bed without learning something new everyday and of course survive. Lol.
My car also has this problem. RPM is very much up and down every time I drive and press clutch shifting gear. Sometimes the engine stops.
Did you fix it
@@nixon9346 ya this is prob with fuel injector in diesel car, and thorottle valve prob with petrol engine.
Same issue with my VW Mk3 Polo but only if i don't use the car for more than 24 hours. Else it works totally fine. Dunno the cause
Currently having this exact problem on my kawasaki zzr1100 carburated. Thinking that it could be an intake leak but ive been spraying brake cleaner all over and it doesnt seem to go away. Its very minor compared to this though
Its actually in the RPM tab, And the clutch cut wire is for no-lift-to-shift. That wont do anything....
what do u mean in laymans terms
It happens to me when engine is warm and only while moving
Did you find the problem
@@outtasightracing7096 no
@jacob w speed sensor was my problem
@@nixon9346 i’m having the same issue when I step on the gas for a long period of time. For example, if I’m going on a road trip, my car starts to act up but if I pull over and let it cool down I’m good after that. What did you replace?
@@gxpla710 my problem was connected with pressing the clutch and it was speed sensor.Maybe yours has something with EGR
This is a common problem in cars that uses a timing chain. The pins that connect the chain links wear slightly and causes the chain links to "eat into" the pins. This will cause the chain links to be slightly (fraction of a mm) further apart. This is also known as a stretched timing chain (although the chain links aren't technically stretched - it's worn down). When you buy a new timing chain + slack guides you will notice that the new chain is about 10 to 15mm longer than the old one, causing the valve timing to be retarded by a few degrees (3 to 6°). The same can happen in cars that uses a belt if it skips a tooth or two.
Never had a bad timing chain do that... Lol.. It causes the motor to stumble on acceleration or diesel when turning the rig off. never have i seen it pull this stuff!
Carel Minnaar I have the same issue on my Impala. I noticed my car started doing this when I pumped my gas pedal one day to accelerate and while doing this I can feel the engine swallowing fuel but there was a delay in the gears snatching to take off. So when you said something about belts moving or slipping I kinda can relate because ever since that night it feels like my ratios or something is off. Longer gears when accelerating and slow down shifts rpm
Thing your tps sensor is not working
Did you fix the problem?, I have same problem on my rb25
This happens to me too. I have a Golf 3, when i slow down and shift back it sometimes stops. Like when i shift from 3rd to 2nd or from 2nd to 1st
ever fix it i am now having that problem with a 1997 eclipse
any help appreciated
BOV condition and recirculation has a huge play in this.
Damn idk what to do then I'm running a n/a engine
My next move is to clean throttle body and iacv next
replace the egr valve and transducer. also clean out the egr pathway. if your car stalls or wants to stall at lower RPM's, or snap throttling then it's possible your ecu can't compensate for a bad fuel & air mixture due to a stuck open/closed egr valve or clogged pathway. worked for me.
good luck
thank you so much didnt end up fixing the problem just swapped in a new 420a due to getting a 2nd gen dsm for 100 $ :P
same exact thing happening to my prelude... very irretating
Probably fuel fikter or fuel injector clogged?
I have the same problem in my Cavalier 2003 the same when I switch to neutral while the car ir running the rpm drops to 300 or 500 rpm and only when I'm totally stoped it returns to the normal ralenti. What was your solution for this?
Did you fix it
My 98 Honda Prelude Sh does the same thing but my idle stays low and doesn't pick back up
Mine too, only returns to the normal ralenti if the car is totally stop
Trying to figure out the same problem on my 2000 Prelude...
Did you fix it
@@nixon9346 sold it and bought a wrx
Mime stopped moving still drives and moves but the rpm sticks to zero can someone help
I having the same issue with a lot of codes on my Infiniti q50
same like my mirage 4g61t....what a problem? vacuum leak?
Did I hear a turbo whistle !?
Dsm link?? "Enable" clutch cut switch on your timing/fuel box.
do u have breathers on ur valve cover? instead of the hose , that happend to me in my stang and cuzins charger
How to fix this issues
Same thing keeps happening in my mini cooper s car shop told me to just drive it faster but I am and it didnt change.
😂
hi, do you fix it problem?
Hello my pajero RPM drops below normal when throttle is let go. Sometimes car stalls as well. Changed plug and injectors, changed fuel filter,, serviced throttle body. Issue still remains. ua-cam.com/video/Gu8evRqCoxc/v-deo.html
No, Its recirculated
running too rich?
Hi