My rs4 sport 3 came with slightly bent center shaft, it causes vibration to the car. the Carbon driveshaft cover does help to stiffen the chassis and help keep the shaft straight and less vibration.
HPI has been through more hands (owners) than a dollar bill in the last 20 years. At one time they had almost as good parts support as Traxxas (the GM of RC). If the steering is to twitchy, turn down the dual rate. There are many more styles of Drift wheels than touring so if you can't find what you're looking for check them out.
Ari , these videos are fun. You do good coverage of different things, and that pirate is hilarious. I hear your voice and appreciate these videos even more being originally from Long Island. It’s a certain mentality, a certain delivery, that never goes away. haha Keep up the good work.
The car is 2-3s capable , I ve been playing with it on 3s with no problems ,it’s written on the esc if u wanna check it out ,just don’t forget to switch the pin on the esc to the lipo side.
Not that you might care it also has some jumpers to change it to lipo if you want to and has adjustments for how you want it to break and stuff through the jumper too as far as I said to me that looks like a off-brand looking 1060 ESC from hobbywing.
Ditch the box TX. Bind it to your normal TX and you will more than likely see an improvement in the steering. If you can adjust the camber that will also help with how it handles.
@@RCRetroHi I know a year has passed but I wanted to share my experience with this car that I got recently... Out of the box the car had very twitchy steering due to a defect of the radio and a design flaw of the car, To start, the potentiometer on my remote that controls the steering is malfunctioning and often when steering right the servo shakes/twitches making driving impossible (I tried other servos and it still has this problem). I replaced the radio with a cheap Carson 2 channel and it works like a charm. Now we get to the second problem, the car comes out of the box with ZERO toe on the front wheels and no way of adjusting it. I am not a professional racer but in my experience if a car has zero toe in the front it simply will never go straight... In addition to that the servo has close to zero deadzone, so barely touching the steering wheel when going straight means the car starts going slighty one way or the other. I even tried changing the servo with other two servos, a digital 12KG one from SPT and a full metal case 20 kg hi-end servo and got pretty much the same result. At the end my solution was to take that one metal link that connect the two sides of the steering that stays under the central driveshaft and make another one from scrap using a piece of alluminium of similar thickness but with the holes closer to each other, this way the steering gained a slight toe-out. I tried it out and I was blown away by the handling...absolutely zero twitching or anything it is perfect. At the end I swapped the stock servo for the SPT as I already had it, but the stock one is probably fine for other uses. I still can't wrap my head around the fact they sell a car with zero toe and no way to adjust it... must be some small circuit racing bs.... Anyway If you want to make yours better I suggest you buy adjustable links for the steering so you can give it a bit of toe out.
Just picked this up on ebay... It's going to a great home. I'm looking to start a Kyosho retro collection. If you could only own one retro what would it be? Thanks
I've got the Tamiya E30 M3 and it looks like the Tamiya body is more detailed with side mirrors, rear wing, front grille, and real (but not operational) headlights. The HPI front grille and headlights are just a sticker. That said, the HPI chassis looks to be much nicer and more versatile than the Tamiya's TT-01 chassis. Also, since you have the Tamiya M3 as well, how do the two cars compare, appearance and performance-wise?
Unfortunately, I do not have the BMW M3 from Tamiya. It was only the box that I had. Someone shipped me another RC car in that Tamiya M3 box which got me interested in obtaining one.. Then, coincidentally, not too long after receiving that box, HPI came out with one. From looking at pics online, I can tell that the Tamiya one is definitely more detailed.
I can see what you're talking about but I've never seen one of these tamiya's up close with this livery. I really wanted one and could have purchased it but they were a little on the pricey side and for less, I was able to get this RTR version from HPI.
@@RCRetro I wonder if it might be possible to put the Tamiya body on this chassis? I have one these Tamiya bodies and the detail is excellent but very hard to get it right. Thoughts?
Hey I did see that on road race but what happened to the track races with the dirt and everything what's going on with that I mean how much more do you think you guys are going to get in racing before your series is over and is there a new channel cuz someone says there's a new channel.
I did not gps speed run this so I'm not sure of exact speed. It was decent out of the box. I also ran it with a Nimh battery. I'm sure if I had used a Lipo it would have been a bit more quicker.
Sorry I would not be able to tell you what the max speed is. I ran this as stock right out of the box and it was a decent speed. I'm sure with different gearing and different Lipo batteries you can get this to go much faster. I also do not own this RC anymore. Sorry I couldn't give you more information.
Those Firebolt motors are known to perform not well to put it like that. Sport Tuned from Tamiya will eat that motor for breakfast. Nothing to so with your battery. They just performs poorly. Hope HPI will grow to how they were back in the day. But I gotta say those window stickers have to go.
I'm new to thr rc world and love this model in real size, something looks wrong on this car though. I think the wheel arches flare out too much.making it look distorted. Shame.
Hate ''Toy looking'' Buggies!... Give me a Rally Car Camp, Trophy Truck, or a scaled down icon vehicle with ''good original detailing, it's so important'' after you have built your perfect RC model chassis... There seems to be so few body's for Petrol 2 stroke scaled 1/15 model vehicle's... (Tamiya, are still hard to beet with there ''visual detailing'' in there RC products)🧐
My rs4 sport 3 came with slightly bent center shaft, it causes vibration to the car. the Carbon driveshaft cover does help to stiffen the chassis and help keep the shaft straight and less vibration.
made my vehicle brushless with many upgrades love it
I like the two tone in the windows. The ride height is perfect. Nice video.
HPI has been through more hands (owners) than a dollar bill in the last 20 years. At one time they had almost as good parts support as Traxxas (the GM of RC). If the steering is to twitchy, turn down the dual rate. There are many more styles of Drift wheels than touring so if you can't find what you're looking for check them out.
Ari , these videos are fun. You do good coverage of different things, and that pirate is hilarious. I hear your voice and appreciate these videos even more being originally from Long Island. It’s a certain mentality, a certain delivery, that never goes away. haha Keep up the good work.
Thanks... glad you enjoy the videos. More great content coming your way...
The car is 2-3s capable , I ve been playing with it on 3s with no problems ,it’s written on the esc if u wanna check it out ,just don’t forget to switch the pin on the esc to the lipo side.
Stoked!!! This is the exact information I've been wondering about! All my lipo are 11.1v 5000mh+
Very steady and fast!
Hey there do you know what the top speed is cos these come with a firebolt 15 is that a double or a single turn. Great vids .
Not that you might care it also has some jumpers to change it to lipo if you want to and has adjustments for how you want it to break and stuff through the jumper too as far as I said to me that looks like a off-brand looking 1060 ESC from hobbywing.
will we see this car again?
What is the black car on the shelf with the gold wheels? I’m very intrigued by it. Thanks if you see this!
adorei, e esperando para ver muito mais, obrigado! (saudações do Rio Grande Do Sul - BR!)😍
Thank you great vlog
Beautiful little car although I'd really prefer building vs the ready to run. I'm now trawling through the internet looking for one 🤣
Me too... I prefer to build but couldn't resist this one...
Ditch the box TX. Bind it to your normal TX and you will more than likely see an improvement in the steering. If you can adjust the camber that will also help with how it handles.
think you're right! might have to swap
@@stevenoram5139 Did you swap out the servo too... still using the remote that came with it? just curious...
@@RCRetroHi I know a year has passed but I wanted to share my experience with this car that I got recently... Out of the box the car had very twitchy steering due to a defect of the radio and a design flaw of the car, To start, the potentiometer on my remote that controls the steering is malfunctioning and often when steering right the servo shakes/twitches making driving impossible (I tried other servos and it still has this problem). I replaced the radio with a cheap Carson 2 channel and it works like a charm. Now we get to the second problem, the car comes out of the box with ZERO toe on the front wheels and no way of adjusting it. I am not a professional racer but in my experience if a car has zero toe in the front it simply will never go straight... In addition to that the servo has close to zero deadzone, so barely touching the steering wheel when going straight means the car starts going slighty one way or the other. I even tried changing the servo with other two servos, a digital 12KG one from SPT and a full metal case 20 kg hi-end servo and got pretty much the same result. At the end my solution was to take that one metal link that connect the two sides of the steering that stays under the central driveshaft and make another one from scrap using a piece of alluminium of similar thickness but with the holes closer to each other, this way the steering gained a slight toe-out. I tried it out and I was blown away by the handling...absolutely zero twitching or anything it is perfect. At the end I swapped the stock servo for the SPT as I already had it, but the stock one is probably fine for other uses. I still can't wrap my head around the fact they sell a car with zero toe and no way to adjust it... must be some small circuit racing bs.... Anyway If you want to make yours better I suggest you buy adjustable links for the steering so you can give it a bit of toe out.
Chique carro 🏎 🔥 💥 💨 😎
This is a much better chassis than the Tamiya TT01
yup. way better
How does the RS4 Sport 3 platform compare to a TT-02?
Just picked this up on ebay... It's going to a great home. I'm looking to start a Kyosho retro collection. If you could only own one retro what would it be? Thanks
Oh, and he hits the barrier! - Steve the pirate, probably.
LOL...
Check MST, they have a similar looking rims with adjustable positive offset of 3,5,7,9.
It's work in 3s lipo battery???
It's also the m series cars colors. For the emblem.
I hear the fireball motor is a good motor.
Nice BMW, but I really want to see that Losi truck paint job, please.👍
You got it. Going to start working on that soon and do a quick video on it.
@@RCRetro Thats a fast service!
Glad you found some excitement in a rather ordinary and sub par chassis.
You know Tamiya brought back this body on a car recently and chassis. Why am I not seeing any more racing videos.
Just put an on-road racing video out 2 weeks ago. Where were you?
I've got the Tamiya E30 M3 and it looks like the Tamiya body is more detailed with side mirrors, rear wing, front grille, and real (but not operational) headlights. The HPI front grille and headlights are just a sticker. That said, the HPI chassis looks to be much nicer and more versatile than the Tamiya's TT-01 chassis.
Also, since you have the Tamiya M3 as well, how do the two cars compare, appearance and performance-wise?
Unfortunately, I do not have the BMW M3 from Tamiya. It was only the box that I had. Someone shipped me another RC car in that Tamiya M3 box which got me interested in obtaining one.. Then, coincidentally, not too long after receiving that box, HPI came out with one. From looking at pics online, I can tell that the Tamiya one is definitely more detailed.
@@RCRetro And currently way overpriced... People on eBay are asking $400+ (!). And it's not fully assembled and has no transmitter and receiver! 😮
How many speed
what size is the wheel hex?
It looks to me that the Tamiya body has more detail. Of course you have to paint it and also apply the decals. Thoughts?
I can see what you're talking about but I've never seen one of these tamiya's up close with this livery. I really wanted one and could have purchased it but they were a little on the pricey side and for less, I was able to get this RTR version from HPI.
@@RCRetro I wonder if it might be possible to put the Tamiya body on this chassis? I have one these Tamiya bodies and the detail is excellent but very hard to get it right. Thoughts?
Hey I did see that on road race but what happened to the track races with the dirt and everything what's going on with that I mean how much more do you think you guys are going to get in racing before your series is over and is there a new channel cuz someone says there's a new channel.
More off road races are coming out. And there is a new channel and eventually the Off-road races will be on there.
I hope you be racing both this one and the other one with the guys.
I'll be running my RC's and racing on-road and off-road
@@RCRetro what's the name of the new channel?
Top speed? Kmh
Looks great although Hpi bodies are way behind tamiya in terms of looks and detail. Good video though
Top Speed ?
I did not gps speed run this so I'm not sure of exact speed. It was decent out of the box. I also ran it with a Nimh battery. I'm sure if I had used a Lipo it would have been a bit more quicker.
what is the maximum speed?
Sorry I would not be able to tell you what the max speed is. I ran this as stock right out of the box and it was a decent speed. I'm sure with different gearing and different Lipo batteries you can get this to go much faster. I also do not own this RC anymore. Sorry I couldn't give you more information.
Surprised about the motor. We have the firebolts in out vintage tamiya 4wd buggies and they are much quicker than the tamiya motors
Those Firebolt motors are known to perform not well to put it like that.
Sport Tuned from Tamiya will eat that motor for breakfast.
Nothing to so with your battery. They just performs poorly.
Hope HPI will grow to how they were back in the day.
But I gotta say those window stickers have to go.
Thanks for the comments and information about the motor. Yes a little underwhelming….. yeah I agree In regard to the window stickers
put a 2s lipo wit at least 50c and it will be fine
Well excuse my last comment you did get it.
That driveshaft shut up it's in a torque tube is what they call that.
I'm new to thr rc world and love this model in real size, something looks wrong on this car though. I think the wheel arches flare out too much.making it look distorted. Shame.
Where is the drifting
Hate ''Toy looking'' Buggies!... Give me a Rally Car Camp, Trophy Truck, or a scaled down icon vehicle with ''good original detailing, it's so important'' after you have built your perfect RC model chassis... There seems to be so few body's for Petrol 2 stroke scaled 1/15 model vehicle's... (Tamiya, are still hard to beet with there ''visual detailing'' in there RC products)🧐
You are so handsome which is such a nice bonus
Tamiyas body of this car is better in my opinion even though this is a nice body.