Saab 9-5 Subframe Bushing DIY
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- Опубліковано 4 гру 2017
- This method will only work with Polyurethane bushings, which we have in Powerflex and ProParts. Follow this link to shop for the right Subframe bushings for your 9-5: eeuroparts.com/product/genuin...
You asked and you shall receive, a bullet fast DIY featuring the back-woods method to replace the subframe bushings on a Saab 9-5. This is NOT the official way to do this, but we know taking the entire subframe off your Saab 9-5 is not always feasible.
Observe all safety rituals, we are not responsible for anyone getting hurt. If you are questioning your ability to do this, take it to someone that can! - Авто та транспорт
I found it infinitely easier to use a prybar for removing the outer races vs. fighting with the sawzall. Just go around the perimeter and deform them inward. They fall right out
I tried that but just couldn't do it -they were just too tight. I bought a little cheap air powered body saw and it took them out in seconds. Because I don't have a hoist in my garage (Oh, I wish 😃) I just didn't have the clearance at the rear end of the frame to get a pry bar in there and get any real leverage. The saw is tiny, 200mm (8") long and was easy to fit in there. (obviously you need a compressor for this). It was a 10 second cut and they pretty much fell out.
Anyone planning to do this job please note.... When I did mine, the rear bushings had a metal inner race, not plastic. They were sized in. I had to bend the lower part of the collar using a pry bar to help break the sized join. Then to remove I managed to fit a 27mm socket over the top, the same way you fit the new bushing, and jack up the subframe and the collar popped out. I did the same on the centre bushings which were in fact plastic, but my way was much quicker and easier than cutting or deforming them. I didnt drill or cut old bushings either, i put something solid between subframe and chassis and jacket a vertical bar up and it popped the inner bushings out.
Best comment! 27mm socket fit perfectly. Got the races out with no problem at all doing this, didnt even have to bend the collar. Thanks!
Thank you eEuroparts! My 2002 Saab 9-3 Aero sedan had a very annoying subframe creaking noise for the past 10 years. I finally replaced the front end rear subframe bushings with Professional Parts Polyurethane bushings and there is absolutely no more chassis noise what so ever. Thanks guys for a great video and for supplying the replacement bushings. Now it's time for a cold beer!
Wow thanks for this. Been putting it off after seeing another walk-thru making it look like a nightmare for a diy'er
Eeuroparts videos are the best
Nice. One if the next jobs for my 9-5.
Thank you, a lot of this is applicable to my '99 Viggen with the 2.3, which there is precious little info on.
Nice done .
I m starting soon work on my 2002 Volvo XC70 .
Thanks .
Спасибо огромное, очень полезно, показывайте пожалуйста чаще видео уроки, замена подвесного подшипника,было интересно
Used this method. Worked! Absolute star for putting this online. Followed it exactly (made sure washer was put in top of the bush between it and the car body) Transformed the car!
beebo no difficulties with some as others have described?
@@22chachalaca Not really. Did the job with jack stands and mostly on my back under the car. Hardest part was getting the old ones out. Used an electric jigsaw to cut the old shells out. Drilled the rubber centres out first with a hole saw. Worked a treat.
@@22chachalaca poly made by Performance Parts Sweden (same as the ones used on the video here) Don't use oem ones as these are far better and easier to install.
@@22chachalaca Slightly more vibration through steering wheel. Other than that all ok
I just spent about $800 in parts, (recently, but thousands over the years), with eEuroparts thanks largely in part due to video tutorials just like this one, Thanks. If my friends at eEuro would like to make a video about replacing a clutch, slave cylinder and more on my '03 Saab 9-5 Aero Wagon, I'd be happy to bring my car over and join the fun.
So, I just completed this job yesterday. I was not able to fit my sawzall up into the space needed to cut the old bushings so I picked up a harbor freight air saw. It was $22 and worked absolutely great! Only about 10 inches long so it was easy to fit where I needed it. Now that I've got it all back together my rattles are gone and the car drives great. Except... now my alignment is off! No idea how I managed to do that.
Hey you wanna do mine? Lol good job man! I do all my own work usually too but I recently broke my femur snowboarding.. Now I have a rear engine mount, oil pressure sensor, idle pulley and bushings sitting in a box waiting for me to heal so I can do the job..
Just finished the rear 4 subframe bushings on my 02 Saab 9-5. You will need a short sawzall to fit under the car with jack stands. I bought the 12v Milwaukee product and it worked great. The video is a little misleading as the middle bushings are a pain in the ass to create enough space to insert the new bushing. Those two were conveniently left out of the video. I ended up jamming a bottle jack between the body and the control arm to create enough space. I still appreciate the video but maybe a little less editing next time.
Valuable, realistic feedback from someone who's been there, thanks for posting !
They weren't left out. Only the front 2 weren't done because it's probably easier to just drop the whole subframe for those 2 than try and use this method. But appreciate the feedback in going to do this and I'm hoping this method will work since the middles are really the only 2 that are worn
Is that the NG or OG 9-5?
@@MetalKilledRap Mine is a 2002 9-5 Linear.
@@michaelfegley1951 to create more space between chassis and middle bushing housing, you can loose the 3 strut top nuts : more clearance is allowed.
what is the correct diameter to cut out the old bushings ?
thx for the video
Hello, great job! I have a small question whether the gearbox has been used on the video - the yellow is powerflex? Are there any better changes after using it? Greetings Piotr.
Hi, yes it is the Powerflex and the idle remains very smooth no vibration. Shifting is direct and much better than with the squishy soft worn out OEM bushing. www.eeuroparts.com/Parts/88667/Auto-Trans-Mount-Bushing-Large-End-PFF66222/
Just did mine in garage on jackstands. Had trouble prying subframe low enough to get new bushings in. I even took out all subframe bolts at one time .. no it didn't fall on the floor or anything. There's 2 motor mounts and shocks still suspending everything . But even then I couldn't get subframe low enough. TIP: To get the middle bushings to fit between body and subframeI disconnect each shock from the top ,one at a time when doing each side. (3 bolts on shock tower) that allowed the subframe to sag and be pried a little more and everything was easy after that.
Oh and harbor freight electric body saw worked great to cut the bushings . Small cheap and fast.
This is very true. Removing the strut mount bolts for each wheel at the top two back corners of the engine bay gives just enough extra sag with jack stands
I bought the 6 bushings "kit" but it is described as "Front" bushings, of which there are only 2. I'm confused here because you replace 6 bushings with a kit called "front" bushings. How does that work? Are there 3 subframes on a Saab 9-5? And if so, does the "front" subframe, the one I have out at the moment to fix my transmission, use 6 identical bushings?
I have done this recently to my 2005 9-5 with the ProfessionalPartsSweden PU Bushings. The drive feeling is so much better than the standard ones, but it doesn’t feel comfortable at red lights. I have done all the bushings even the three engine mounts. The vibration on idle is a little bit annoying
The engine mounts are probably the biggest issue if you didn’t go OEM
Lol my shop wants a grand to do this job.
I've been living with creaking in my suspension for nearly 2 years. I followed the instructions in the video to install the washer ON TOP of the bushing between the body and the bushing.
That appears to be incorrect! In the video, the installer puts the large washer below the bushing but the text overlay states to do the exact opposite. I followed the text directions and it lead to creaks. I eventually swapped them to this below position and all noises have gone
My advice, do not follow the instructions in the video in regard to putting the washer on top. All else is good!
I was thinking the same when I watched.. Why between? 🤔
I have not done the job yet.
eEuroparts. Do you have them in 4 or 6?since only 4 would have to be replaced.
Have you done a front and rear anti roll/sway bar tutorial?
We have not, sorry
What size is that hole saw? I see that the wheels were removed, but can this be done on drive up ramps instead of a lift?
The subframe has to sag down in order to clear the bushing, so you have to have the car in the air, ramps will not work. The holesaw should be close to 1 1/8in.
@eeuroparts how do you create enough gap to shove that most rearward bushing in?? cheers
I used a crowbar and a trolley jack, with a drift placed underneath the crowbar to create a pivot. If you look at the subframe there is a void around where the bush goes to put a bar in, and get extra leverage
What diameter for the hole saw? Thanks in advance
With the outer metal races for the front front and front rear subframe bushes it seems they are part of the bushing hole, do i still have to remove them? Cheers
Yes remove the bushing, it's part of the knackered bush
I've always heard that poly bushings are quite squeaky an are much harsher ride. How's the NVH with the poly bushings?
It really depends on the position of the bushing and what equipment you have installed on your car. If you are raced out with coilovers, stiff sidewall sport tires, and Powerflex Black all around, then yes you will have a very stiff unforgiving ride. That's on purpose, you need that for proper road feedback. If you install street poly bushings in choice positions, such as control arms or subframe bushings, you will most likely not notice a harsher ride. You will get a little more feedback, with the benefit of a lifetime warranty on the Powerflex products. This video installs very inexpensive Proparts bushings. Because they are not in a twisting motion or move at all, they will not squeak (and haven't in two years since installation).
eEuroparts.com thank you very informative.
No need to support the engine? I've checked some other DIY descriptions and the shop manual and engine support seems to be needed.
As long as you keep two bolts in (loose) then you do not need to support the engine. As described in the video, don't remove all 6 at once. In the shop procedure you must completely remove the subframe, which of course holds a few engine mounts. If you remove the subframe you need to use an engine support.
what size hole saw was used? I really need to do this my rears are shot
1 1/8in is the one used in the video
I'm a bit confused, at about 1.46min it says to put the big flat washer on top between the bushing and the body, but that is NOT what is shown on the vid. You can clearly see the big flat washer on the bottom of the bushing. That looks like the right place to me but can someone who knows please comment?
Read the comment below by VioleNFaN
(3 years ago). eEuroparts admitted that the washer was misplaced.
@@pcnepal Thanks - I see that now. On top it is then 😃
You say on washer on top and then you show with then washer on the bottom????
Is it possible to do the front two with a similar method, or is that impossible without dropping the subframe?
That should be possible, but you should make sure you have the engine supported at the top, you may not be able to leverage enough clearance to get the bushings out and in through the top in that position. Let us know how it goes.
@@Eeuroparts Nice. Will maybe give it a go. You've given me hope, lol. This job went from "no way in heck I want to bother trying this" to "maybe I can actually do this." My 2006 9-5 sounds like an old beater going down the road with all the worn bushings. Odd thing is, it only gets creaky when it gets cold out. Thanks for the great video!
@@AndyBlock Sway bar bushings often get creaky when cold too, might be worth replacing them or just putting some grease between the bushing and the bar to see if that helps
Beautiful. What type of grease was used, out of curiosity.
Both brands of Poly bushings we sell are supplied with grease. If you would like to regrease your bushings at any point, we recommend Loctite Viperlube (www.eeuroparts.com/Parts/51750/ViperLube-Synthetic-Grease-3oz-Tube-Plastilube-457456/) or Motul TechGrease (www.eeuroparts.com/Parts/71665/Tech-Grease-300-7oz-100898/)
Do you ship parts to the uk?
Yes we do
@@Eeuroparts Did the job following your video. Worked a charm! Thanks for sharing!
#NEVERBUYASAAB
1.45 It looks to me like the washer is on the downside. Is that correct? Not on the top between the bushing and the body.
The washer goes on top between the body and the bushing to prevent tearing
@@Eeuroparts yes but on the video there's washer under the body.And to me it's look like to be ok. Because bushing Is suport by large Area of frame+body on the top and washer betwen bolt and bushing stop wear by bolt wich has smaler area to spread load
Pavel Jachymstal Trust us, the washer goes on top, despite the mistake made in video filming
@@Eeuroparts Rather a HUGE mistake if you ask me...if I hadn't read all the comments I would have just followed the video....why don't you edit the video with some text pointing out that the video is wrong instead of just having contradicting text and images?
TIS says not to use impact on subframe bolts…
Fast
Just done this job. It's a pain in the rear
did you use a lift or jackstands? I have both but I'm not sure how long something like this would take
#NEVERBUYASAAB
Powerflex? XD
#NEVERBUYASAAB