Excellent video! I just finished front subframe bushing replacement work on my 2002 9-5 sedan and 2003 9-5 wagon. I installed Powerflex polyurethane bushings. Anyone who is looking for replacement bushings, I would strongly advise against using the blue polyurethane bushings. These are very low-quality bushings. These dry out and crumble very quickly. Thank you for the information. Cheers.
Great video! Why did you mark the bushing and the frame and line them up before pressing it in at the 3:05 mark on the video? Do they only go a certain way? Thank you.
Most suspension bushings come with markings on them. It should be positioned & installed properly. In some cases, it is better to put a mark on them before removal.
Great video. Did you only replace the rear bushings? Early in the video you removed the middle bushing bolts but I didn’t see you replace the bushings. I know the front bushings rarely wear out so I can understand if you didn’t change those but wondered about the middles. Thanks.
I did not replace the middle subframe bushings. In order to replace the rear subframe bushings, you will need to remove the middle bushing bolts. Welcome!
Thanks for the reply. Is your experience that the middle bushings are usually OK? Many have said the fronts are usually fine. My right rear is toast but the left rear appears OK so I was just going to do the rears.
Thanks. I’ve also read that the right rear tends to go first. I think this may be because the right elk horn engine mount sits higher than the transmission mount on the left side, plus the rear mount and torque rod are lower and biased a little to the left side. So, the engine may twist a little more on the right side putting more stress on the right side bushings. Since the engine’s torque causes it to twist counterclockwise when viewed from the right side when in forward gears (especially so when moving from a dead stop) the right rear may see the most stress. Anyway, that’s my theory… Interesting that NG 9-3s don’t have the same problem.
Finally got my press tool but managed to change the rear with "jacking" it up and using the weight of the car , do you change the middle with subframe on the just as easy as the rear one ?
Excellent video! I just finished front subframe bushing replacement work on my 2002 9-5 sedan and 2003 9-5 wagon. I installed Powerflex polyurethane bushings. Anyone who is looking for replacement bushings, I would strongly advise against using the blue polyurethane bushings. These are very low-quality bushings. These dry out and crumble very quickly. Thank you for the information. Cheers.
Thanks for sharing!👍
Great video! Why did you mark the bushing and the frame and line them up before pressing it in at the 3:05 mark on the video? Do they only go a certain way? Thank you.
Most suspension bushings come with markings on them. It should be positioned & installed properly. In some cases, it is better to put a mark on them before removal.
Hi i've got a vectra c opc v6 2.8 280cv z28net
Do have any idea how to replace rear engine mount and front sway bar silent block please thank you
Some SAAB cars have similarities with OPEL because of GM. There is no OPEL cars in Canada.
Very good video. Can all six be replaced like this? Didn't you remove the rear engine mount?
I replaced rear bushings, without removing rear engine mount.
Great video. Did you only replace the rear bushings? Early in the video you removed the middle bushing bolts but I didn’t see you replace the bushings. I know the front bushings rarely wear out so I can understand if you didn’t change those but wondered about the middles. Thanks.
I did not replace the middle subframe bushings. In order to replace the rear subframe bushings, you will need to remove the middle bushing bolts. Welcome!
Thanks for the reply. Is your experience that the middle bushings are usually OK? Many have said the fronts are usually fine.
My right rear is toast but the left rear appears OK so I was just going to do the rears.
In general, both rear ones will go first.
Thanks. I’ve also read that the right rear tends to go first. I think this may be because the right elk horn engine mount sits higher than the transmission mount on the left side, plus the rear mount and torque rod are lower and biased a little to the left side. So, the engine may twist a little more on the right side putting more stress on the right side bushings. Since the engine’s torque causes it to twist counterclockwise when viewed from the right side when in forward gears (especially so when moving from a dead stop) the right rear may see the most stress. Anyway, that’s my theory…
Interesting that NG 9-3s don’t have the same problem.
Finally got my press tool but managed to change the rear with "jacking" it up and using the weight of the car , do you change the middle with subframe on the just as easy as the rear one ?
Ciao ho una SAAB 9000 del 95 iniezione ho il minimo alto ( motorino passo va bene prende aria da qualche parte e noncapisco dove passo no