Kawasaki Vulcan Clutch Slip - Causes and Solutions
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- Опубліковано 20 лип 2024
- In this video I discuss the main causes for cluch slip , particularly in Vulcans with the 1500cc and 1600cc v-twin motor.
Im notr a mechanic but have worked on these bikes for a long time and decided to share my experence on this issue.
Music used in this video is "Fresh Fallen Snow" by Chris Haugen
Thanks very much for the excellent videos. I was having clutch slip on my 05 Vulcan. I changed out the friction plates though the old ones looked new with only 11k miles on them. Got it all put back together still had the issue. I bled the clutch line and flushed it with new brake fluid. the small port in the master cylinder was blocked - I'm sure that is the source of the clutch issue when the engine got hot. I'd strongly suggest that as the first and easiest thing to check with a hydraulic clutch.
Thanks Bruce - yes I think the round mater cylinders used on some of the Vulcans seem to have a problem with the small vent hole blocking which leads to the system over pressurising .I will pin you comment as it may help someone.
This worked on my '05 Classic. Thanks!
You are amazing and I love you for being one of the only people who gives actual reasons for things
I'm glad I could help - please share the vid with everyone you know and bully all you friends into subscribing to the channel 😂
Much respect to you and thanks for running through this procedure the way you did
Im no expert , but I hope it helps😀
Thank you. Great video. I'm currently replacing my friction plates and spring. You definitely helped me understand the reason why it happened.
Im glad I could help - best of luck with the repairs
Your clutch plates will only need to be replaced if you kept riding it's slipping and Kawasaki use different thicknesses with their clutch plates if the bike just started slipping if you replace the one spring plate and the boss and your plates are not burnt you will be fine I've done many of Vulcan 1500
Thank you! Highly educational and well made!
I'm glad you found it useful- thanks for your comment 👍
Very nice video. Thanks we are actually trying the 3rd option tonight on my 1500 Vulcan
Im glad I could help - best of luck with your clutch work 👍
Super informative! I had no idea that the hydraulics would even be an issue, on a vulcan!
On the whole they are a good motor but the bevel drive set up could have been done better. Thanks for your comment
@@ThePonkster I've never met a Vulcan that didn't survive a nuclear winter.
The Vulcan 1500 and 1600 clutch slips its not because the clutch plates or friction plates are worn . people hold the cluch lever in while sitting at lights or just keeping it held in while the engine is running which in turn wears on that spring plate. The center boss rides on the spring plate causing premature wear there's not much lubrication there and I'm sure that didn't help it. You replace both those components spring plate and the boss to put it back together you'll be fine and then many of those clutches customers would come in complaining their clutch slip they say put a new clutch in it does not need a new clutch if they noted the clutch was slipping and stop riding it. just those two components. I own a Kawasaki zrx1200 A2 and the original clutch for 114 thousand miles
I agree that most time the clutch slips its due to wear on the plates and the disc spring, however the earlier centre boss on the 1500s does cause the spring fingers to wear quickly and causes a slip under load even when the plates are in good condition - ultimately you are right that a change of plates and spring together will cure the problem if it is all reassembled correctly - which in my experience people often don't do correctly .
great vid,very informative and easy to understand,did the slave then changed clutch and will be doing a fluid change as part of service
Thanks for your comment Roger
You have no idea, how much questions you answered with this video. Thank you ser 🫡😊
Glad it was helpful!
I just edited a video I will be posting soon about the clutch replacement of a C50 Suzuki and cable adjustment. You are so much better at these types of videos than I.
More luck than judgement I assure you - my garage is narrow and not great for filming which is why I do a lot of talking and not so much demonstrating 😂
Great video! Love the Mad Max desktop pictures.
Thanks - you found we out - I'm a big Post Apoc geek !
Heck yeah that was a great video very informative, keep up the awesome work cheers
Thanks 👍
Clutch started slipping on the highway then it just went all together so I took closest exit. Now I'm sitting here watching this video. 🤦♂️ lol
I hope you get it sorted
@@ThePonkster thank you. After pushing my bike 2 miles to a friend's house, and got a rife home, I watched some more videos and read my repair manual. Bought a clutch kit. It'll be here Friday 💪 I'll go pick up my bike this weekend to work on it. 😁
This guy is really good! Thanks!!!
Thanks Thomas - I'm glad I could help 😊
NEW SUBSCRIBER! Keep the post coming
Thanks for the sub - I try to post as regular as I can !
Thank you for this video
Your welcome - I glad it helped
great video man,I'm about to change my 3rd gear would like to see how to do it properly.
My advice is get a good manual and follow it to the letter - my vid of the gearbox rebuild was done specifically NOT as a "how to" as it was the first time I had done it and I'm in no position to teach anyone . Best of luck - take your time and be methodical and you will be ok
Thumbs up man wish I could have gave you two very interesting video also very detailed I can tell that you know what you are talkin about keep safe catch you later
Thanks - just the collected information of a lot of wrenching and breaking stuff :)
Top stuff 👍🏻
I hope it helps someone !
Clutch plates are different thicknesses on the Vulcan 1500 + 1600. If the clutch starts to slip you can replace those two components if you keep riding it you will burn the clutch up and you will be replacing it but if the clutch just starts to slip replace those two components and you will be good
As far as the later 1500 and 1600s (as in the mean streak) the clutch components apart from the center boss are the same - as for the earlier 1500 which is technally a different bike I couldnt say as I dont work on them usually.
Thank you very much for your detailed and helpfull content. After watching your video I found that my 2002 VN1500 meanstreak's clutch spring was indeed damaged by the center holder.
If i understand you correctly I should replace the clutch spring with an OEM VN1500 spring, part 92145A, but upgrade to the two piece VN1600 spring holder, parts 13280A and 13280B correct?
It has been a while since I did the conversion - but as I remember it the best spring is the standard oem "Meanstreak" spring and the two piece centre from a VN1600 - Im not sure of the part numbers. I did end up with the barnet heavy duty spring in my bike due to the additional weight of the sidecar which did start to make the clutch slip - I can confirm that the heavy duty spring is far from ideal and is a very "firm" pull.
Great video, i have an 87 VN15 with a slipping clutch, does it cold in 1st and 2nd gears, have changed the oil, biting point of clutch is very low (lever near the grip) so dont think it's worn plates (which would mean the biting point would be further out), think it might be a hydraulic problem.
yes - it does sound like hydraulic , not a huge cost to service clutch master and slave and upgrade the line to a braided line - thats what I would do ! Best of luck with it
@@ThePonkster braided line? Why? Also, would that require a line specific to the bike e.g. line length or would this be generic?
@@ikester475 Braided lines flex less than the stock rubber ones and a ton less than old stock rubber ones which means you get maximum shove of the fluid which helps with the vulcan system. As for will you get one "off the shelf" for you bike - you may or you may have to measure the length you need and get one made up which is not a big deal
Great Video! I have a 2004 Vulcan 1500 Nomad FI with a little over 40k miles on it and I am trying to figure out why the clutch engages/disengages at the very end of the clutch lever pull. I hope it doesn't mean my friction plates are shot but I don't seem to get any slip. I'll follow your troubleshooting steps and check the master and slave cylinders along with a fluid change first.
The bite point on my bike is pretty much at the lever fully out - and it has new clutch plates and spring, hydraulic clutches defy logic sometimes
I’m having the same issue. Let me know if you find a solution before I go taking all the clutch plates out.
@@adamahuffman I actually just changed the dial on the clutch handle to setting 3 and that helped a lot but I found out in the troubleshooting process that I had one bad spark plug cap that was causing a misfire and lower power. Runs and shifts smooth now.
@@fg146 Thanks! Somehow mine was on 5. Fixed mine too!
Would the 1600 center hub fit in an older 1500 like a 97. Trying to help my dad out with his gutless 1500, about to change friction plates and was wondering if this option was available for his bike to avoid going through plates, help is much appreciated. Thanks
Im not sure tbh - if they use the same clutch components as the later 1500s it will work
So I rebuild the master cylinder, serviced the slave cylinder and only put on the Bernetts spring and the bike larches forward when put into gear and i feel it stalls rather quickly.
Do you think the clutch plates need to be swapped out bike has 55K miles
I really need to get the parts, 13280A - P/N:13280-1306 (Center Boss washer); 13280B - P/N: 13280-1307 (Center Boss); 92144A - P/N: 92144-1934 (clutch spring disk plate)
With the bike in gear and the clutch lever pulled in and the brake held the bike should not stall , there is all ways a small "lurch" when they go into first. If it stalls with the clutch pulled in then the clutch is not depressing fully (disengageing ) which would have nothing to do with plates and would be more likely due to incorrect reassembley of the centre boss washers imo
@@ThePonkster I think it was just me getting used to a carb bikes clutch friction zone and throttle application. Thanks so much for you time responding to me! :)
What is the part number for the recommended clutch spring? Also is there a specific order to the 3 “washers” behind the clutch spring?
I think the spring you need is 92144-1934 -You will find the part nos on this page : www.ronayers.com/oemparts/a/kaw/500b25a1f8700223e478f17d/clutch
I think the washers go like this ()( if that makes sense , I would also recoment getting the two part centre boss from the 1600cc motor to make the spring last longer - they are called "holder a & b " part no 13280-1306 and 13280-1307
Thank you !
The Ponkster You sir, are the man!
Mine is slipping a little when cold and less when hot. I put in Kawasaki oil I purchased from dealer and I have the slip issue. When I use Amsoil 10Wx40 oil, I don't have this issue. Wife and I are going on a 4,500 mile trip and going to replace clutch and spring anyway.
Thanks for sharing
i have a 2002 honda st 1100 replaced the clutch kit cause it was slipping the clutch i took out didnt look bad but i replaced it anyway when it warms up it doest pull when you frist start her she drives for about 15 mintues and starts slipping do you know what could cause this after watching your video i think it may be the same problem with hydraulics just asking your opinion
Overheating clutch fluid could cause a slip - in the vulcan this is dur to a bearing that fails and gets hot transferring heat to the adjacent slave cylinder. I'm not sure what would cause this in your Honda ( not a bike I know at all). The only advice I can give is if you haven't already change put your clutch fluid for new stuff as even a dot of water can cause the system to have strange symptoms. Sorry I can't be more help - I'm just a dude who tinkers with bikes 😀
I'm trying to figure out if this clutch slip would cause the bike when you shift into 1st gear to not go forward.? I can Rev the engine in gear and it won't go is that clutch plates?
It does sound like it
My is the opposite. When hot it works great, when cold it slips.
I think that is the signs of worn friction plates - but it could also be a spring starting to show wear , really the only way to know for sure with any of the clutch issues is to crack open the clutch cover and inspect the main parts . Thanks for your comment
08 Vulcan nomad 1500cc shifting into second gear from first kicks out slips can’t go in second but all other gears work just fine
What are my options on what could b wrong?
Sorry I have no idea - my selector fork bent and it grinded and wouldnt go int gear - ended up in a full engine out and gearbox rebuild (see videos). Time to consult a mechanic I think.
So I have an 03 1500 Classic. I changed the friction plate and now still won’t move itself . I plan on changing clutch fluid
Did you remember to put the last friction plate in the different 'notch' to all the others ?
The Ponkster no
The Ponkster so by different notch, is there a particular position?
Yes - all the friction plate tabs slot down in the gaps in the clutch basket but the very last one you put in sits with its tabs in the square notches in the top of the forks of the clutch basket - I hope that makes sense
Mine feels like it doesn't catch till my clutch lever is almost all the way out.... Any idea of how to fix it? I have changed the fluid and no change...
Hydraulic clutches are problematic as they have no adjustment so you are stuck with what you get a bit other than the lever height adjustment (if you have an ajustable lever) - A bite point getting further from the bar would point to wearing clutch plates
Ok that's what I kinda figured but wanted to make sure , bc it wasn't actually slipping ..... So if I get new friction plates it should solve the problem?
It should , but hydraulic clutches are weird - it would be worth taking a look at the plates first before you buy - most workshop manuals give a minimum thickness for the plates you can check against if you are not sure.
It probably needs done it has original clutches and about 16,000 miles on them
I love this accent. Would it be correct to describe this as cockney?
Good god NO - I have a midlands accent (Birmingham) that has mutated as I have lived in Scotland most of my adult life - call me anything - but please not a Cockney 🤣
Thanks for your comment and Sub 😀
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If it was redesigned on the 1600 they didn’t get it. I have a 1600 and the spring was worn at 3500 miles.
The newer two piece clutch centre does reduce wear - but they are still designed to wear the clutch springs. Thanks for your comment
there is no need to drain oil if bike is on kick stand.
I'm afraid I don't agree - follow the workshop manual and do it right that's the way I do it , you on the other hand are free to fix your bike however you wish. My video is not a "how to" or instructional just me explaining how I did the job following the book as closely as I could .