That last outer friction plate is positioned incorrectly. That last friction plate is supposed to be staggered into those shallower channels that have nothing in them currently
Thank you for this video. I just bought a really nice Kawasaki Vulcan Nomad two days ago that supposedly has a brand new clutch in it with less than 100 miles use on it.. When I got it home and unloaded it I got it insured and registered and took it for a short ride. It was a great ride for about 2-1/2 miles, then the clutch started slipping and I barely limped it back home. Today I'm going into the cover plate to find out if it's put together right or wrong, or if something came loose. This is an awesome video and I really needed it since this is the first Kawasaki that I have ever owned. Hopefully this video just got me out of a problem that I can now correct.
Great video. I'm about to change my clutch springs in a few days and have watched several videos. By far the best one yet, clear and understandable. Thanks
What model year is this bike? The action of the slave piston/rod isn't the same as my 2001 Vulcan 1500. At 12:41, the actuator plate clearly moves in and out but in my 2001, it barely moves but it's tight against the clutch spring and rotates freely when the clutch lever is pulled in. When the clutch lever is out, the actuator plate is tight against the clutch spring. This action tells me it's working but I expect to see movement as shown in this video. Edit update: I solved all the clutch problems on my 2001. I replaced the master cylinder (rebuild kit did not work), renewed a sticky slave piston seal, outer rim of the piston was rough, lightly honed it with 600 grit paper, bled all air out plus replaced the slip plates and limiter springs. She's basically total rebuilt and is like new. I've since put 200+ miles on it with no issues. Now at 106250 miles.
The last friction plate goes into the short grooves of the basket as per manual so that it is offset from the others. The dished plates should be installed with grease on them to prevent them falling off center. The nut should be torqued to 108 ft/lbs not tightened with an impact driver.
Yes to the comment below..also the washer on the pushrod goes to the outside against the aluminum piece then the bearing..pushrod,bearing washer aluminum cover...
so if your wondering why the clutches seem to burn out to fast on these, its two things , one, they put a washer in the next gen of these with cog teeth to fit that spring disk to cut down on wear( it will fit all the older models ) the disk wear is first problem the second is the master cylinder has two more centimeters of travel than it gets with the stock leaver , and that lets the clutch drag just a hair at idle.
Just spit balling here but. Maybe the push rod is sticking. Could be the slave cylinder piston corroded, debris in the line, heavy duty clutch spring kit, (not likely) clutch basket warn out, master cylinder could be hanging up. Maybe this will help. Not really much there to cause this stiff clutch. Unless you have a cable clutch. in that case it probably needs a new cable. Hope this helps.
@@MrFixit1 Thanks for the reply. It's hydraulic. I had a racing clutch in it and changed it out thinking it was the heavy springs. I also bled the system and changed oil. Still the same. It shifts fine just a heavy pull. I know this because I have a total of 4 meanstreaks.
I have a 2009 vulcan 900 im having the same issue .it trys to keep moving with the clutch pulled in ....it all started when the cable broke i put a new cable on and it dont feel right its spongy at the lever and lurching at stop ...any ideas
I put a new clutch in mine and it dragged turns out moisture got in the fluid after draining the system and bleeding the slave cylinder it worked awsome
I wonder if he found it later. Afterwards you couldn't see under bike like that area was blacked out. Probably after seeing your comment. Good eye Sir. He didn't say if the job was successful or not
You say first problem found but don't explain what it was??before moving on.Tip don't throw away old cardboard boxes,cut them up and slide under motor before working on engine.
![KAWASAKI VULCAN 1500 [2004] How to change clutch , replacement by The Old Mechanic PART 4 👨🔧---🏍](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/U5CXdFh1dys/mqdefault.jpg)
![KAWASAKI VULCAN 1500 [2004] How to change clutch , replacement by The Old Mechanic PART 4 👨🔧---🏍](/img/tr.png)
![KAWASAKI VULCAN 1500 [2004] How to change clutch , replacement by The Old Mechanic PART 1 👨🔧---🏍](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/l4OEtCA8OnU/mqdefault.jpg)
That last outer friction plate is positioned incorrectly. That last friction plate is supposed to be staggered into those shallower channels that have nothing in them currently
Not all clutches stagger the last plate, not really necessary.
Thank you for this video. I just bought a really nice Kawasaki Vulcan Nomad two days ago that supposedly has a brand new clutch in it with less than 100 miles use on it.. When I got it home and unloaded it I got it insured and registered and took it for a short ride. It was a great ride for about 2-1/2 miles, then the clutch started slipping and I barely limped it back home. Today I'm going into the cover plate to find out if it's put together right or wrong, or if something came loose. This is an awesome video and I really needed it since this is the first Kawasaki that I have ever owned. Hopefully this video just got me out of a problem that I can now correct.
Read through the comments as there may be other info others have posted.
Great video. I'm about to change my clutch springs in a few days and have watched several videos. By far the best one yet, clear and understandable. Thanks
What model year is this bike? The action of the slave piston/rod isn't the same as my 2001 Vulcan 1500. At 12:41, the actuator plate clearly moves in and out but in my 2001, it barely moves but it's tight against the clutch spring and rotates freely when the clutch lever is pulled in. When the clutch lever is out, the actuator plate is tight against the clutch spring. This action tells me it's working but I expect to see movement as shown in this video.
Edit update: I solved all the clutch problems on my 2001. I replaced the master cylinder (rebuild kit did not work), renewed a sticky slave piston seal, outer rim of the piston was rough, lightly honed it with 600 grit paper, bled all air out plus replaced the slip plates and limiter springs. She's basically total rebuilt and is like new. I've since put 200+ miles on it with no issues. Now at 106250 miles.
The last friction plate goes into the short grooves of the basket as per manual so that it is offset from the others. The dished plates should be installed with grease on them to prevent them falling off center. The nut should be torqued to 108 ft/lbs not tightened with an impact driver.
Yes to the comment below..also the washer on the pushrod goes to the outside against the aluminum piece then the bearing..pushrod,bearing washer aluminum cover...
so if your wondering why the clutches seem to burn out to fast on these, its two things , one, they put a washer in the next gen of these with cog teeth to fit that spring disk to cut down on wear( it will fit all the older models ) the disk wear is first problem the second is the master cylinder has two more centimeters of travel than it gets with the stock leaver , and that lets the clutch drag just a hair at idle.
I've got a stiff clutch pull. Any suggestions?
Just spit balling here but. Maybe the push rod is sticking. Could be the slave cylinder piston corroded, debris in the line, heavy duty clutch spring kit, (not likely) clutch basket warn out, master cylinder could be hanging up. Maybe this will help. Not really much there to cause this stiff clutch. Unless you have a cable clutch. in that case it probably needs a new cable. Hope this helps.
@@MrFixit1 Thanks for the reply. It's hydraulic. I had a racing clutch in it and changed it out thinking it was the heavy springs. I also bled the system and changed oil. Still the same. It shifts fine just a heavy pull. I know this because I have a total of 4 meanstreaks.
@@leeabend8079 Wow, I hope you figure it out.
I have a 2009 vulcan 900 im having the same issue .it trys to keep moving with the clutch pulled in ....it all started when the cable broke i put a new cable on and it dont feel right its spongy at the lever and lurching at stop ...any ideas
Can't be sure but it sounds like the clutch free play is not adjusted correctly.
Belleza y chulada de la kawasaki drifter 1500 cc. Yo tengo una vulcan 1500 cc clasic. Hermosas las vulcan. Saludos des. Mexicooooo
What would you charge me to do mine
Probably a lot less than it would cost to transport it here.
I put a new clutch in mine and it dragged turns out moisture got in the fluid after draining the system and bleeding the slave cylinder it worked awsome
I saw that third washer fall under the bike! Lol.
It happens!! Lol.
I wonder if he found it later. Afterwards you couldn't see under bike like that area was blacked out. Probably after seeing your comment. Good eye Sir. He didn't say if the job was successful or not
Great video thanks
Shafdrive assembly
You say first problem found but don't explain what it was??before moving on.Tip don't throw away old cardboard boxes,cut them up and slide under motor before working on engine.